CRUSHED ASPHALT DRIVEWAY INSTALL: START TO FINISH!
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- Опубліковано 20 чер 2022
- It's time to cut in a driveway before construction can begin. Check out the process of clearing trees, installing a culvert, leveling dirt, and spreading crushed asphalt (asphalt millings) instead of a gravel driveway! A full crushed asphalt durability update will be shown at the end of construction next year!
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How's it doing a year later?
We did a fresh coat on top after building was finished, and it's holding together nicely. The areas that were packed have done better than the fill, so I'd suggest some larger crushed stone or concrete for base if you're filling an area, but once it packs in, it holds up well. Even with all the Amazon drivers running up and down it!
I have a 1600 foot reclaimed asphalt driveway. A little tip that will help anyone installing one is as soon as you finish laying it down put down Calcium Chloride Flakes on the hottest day possible just before it rains. It will melt down and harden and lock in all the fines. It literally turns the road into rock hard, and mine has lasted for years
where do you get Calcium Chloride Flakes by the ton?
@@penguinistas road salt?
6 minutes in and you already changed skid steer blades 3 times ! You got some toys around your place. Good video man.
"Jake, with State Fun" I see what you did there! 😜
I love the driveway from start to finish God bless keeping the great work thank you for teaching me
Awesome thank you! Exactly what I needed to see. Putting mine right ontop of dirt!
Honestly, it worked great where the dirt was packed, but if you have any fill, I'd suggest some larger crushed rock or concrete to get it more solid!
I love your dogs 🐕
Take a seed spreader and spread dow flake calcium over the driveway. It will heat the asphalt up and binde it back together. It will keep the dustvdown as well
Good video and information. All the best!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Awesome work 👍
Thanks!
My grandpa put down a crushed asphalt deiveway 25 years ago and it has yet to need regraded or redone. Its amazing.
Your videographer is fantastic. Love the show.
Most definitely! It takes skill for her to make me look halfway decent on camera!
😂😂lol
Great video and content. I am a fan. Watched, Liked, and Subscribed!
Look s fantastic 👏
Thanks! It's definitely nicer than I was expecting
Hey I’d like to give you little advice on the skid steer, maybe you give it a try next time you do a driveway. You kinda remind me of when i got on the bobcat, it’s a little longer but you might wanna read it. But first - I never drive around with the bucket raised above eye level, just trust me on that one.
Ok, now the grading. There is a lot easier way to get a better result then what I’ve seen you do. I found, it’s never best to back blade with an aggressive blade angle, unless you do it really fast in order to kick material out to the sides to widen the road.
And you should NEVER try to grade or finish at an angle like that.
That’s for two reasons. First, every time you do it you will kick and pop up all the bigger rocks that are sticking out as your blade grazes over them and lose all the fines underneath them. Essentially you are separating the fines from the rocks and if you do it enough there will only be rocks at the top and fines underneath, very bad for compaction etc.
If you do it to widen the road, you should only do it once for that reason.
Second reason, at an aggressive angle the bucket is barely touching the ground and because of the little contact area with the ground the bucket will help ZERO in stabilizing the machine, meaning every bump, low and high your tires reverse over will directly reflect in your grade because your bucket will follow the up and down movement of your tires. It is therefore almost impossible to make a perfekt grade this way unless the road is already perfectly flat, but you will hardly be able to remove ups and downs out of a road.
That’s why I saw you grade the humps going forward all the time, because they won’t go away in reverse.
So reverse in an aggressive angle (any angle that’s carrying material to be exact) is overall not the thing you want to do, unless you go fast in order to kick it out side and widen the road.
But now I tell you what I think is the way to go: reverse with the bucket flat on the ground.
You wanna carry your material and cut your grade with the heel of the bucket. Think about it, when the bucket is flat on the ground, the heel is at 90° to the road, perfekt angle to carry material, like a dozer blade. A lot better angle in fact then what you were doing. Also, the heel is closest to the plate and the boom, therefore it has by far the most strength and stability when pushing material (in reverse). You can carry a lot more, also it will cut with more force because the cutting edge is close to the machine and has more weight. You can increase the cutting force by loading material in your bucket.
But here is the most important reason: stabilization. You are cutting and carrying with the heel of your bucket, the front of your bucket, your front cutting edge needs to touch the ground with slight force. Not enough to pick the heel up, but enough to make firm contact with the ground. That way you are stabilizing your blade (the heel) on 3 points with the ground, your two axles and the front of the bucket. In between is your heel, your cutting edge.
This way, you very much turn your skid steer into a motor grader, which achieves its abilities also by 3 point stabilization. The difference is you can only do it in reverse.
And it’s almost impossible to cut to deep with your heel that way, 3 point stabilization prevents that.
Also, you will not separate fines from rocks that way, because your 90° heel will slice right through the gravel, vs “kicking” everything up that sticks out.
If you try it the first time, try it with an empty bucket, get it flat on the ground and keep it flat and hold the boom down while reversing. That should work every time. Once you get a hang of it, play with the amount of pressure you put the boom down, when it’s humpy all the way down, once it gets flat you won’t need that much pressure anymore. If it’s really humpy you might wanna load your bucket with some material and then do it, you will carry a lot more material on your heel but the result will be a lot flatter.
You can’t fix anything that way, the ground already needs to be somewhat flat. You just do what you can going forward, then switch to this method. Only thing to be aware of are your front cylinders, keep an eye on ‘em and keep ‘em clean cuz there will be a bunch of gravel in that area. But that method works so well you almost don’t need to move the bucket out of flat position. Also you are compacting the material as well if you reverse grade with flat bucket
How would I have done your job? After the spread I would have gone forward and picked up any big high spots and filled obvious lows until it’s somewhat flat. Then I would have made passes on the left and the right in reverse bucket flat, never the middle to maintain the crown. After one pass on each side it would already be pretty good and I trackwalk everything. Then I would have probably been done after 2 more passes on each side and it be pretty perfect. I like to finish off with one pass with the bucket at 25° or so to make a “shiny” finish.
Maybe you knew all this already or did it that way, but from what I’ve seen in the video I thought you could greatly profit from this advice.
Thanks good luck ✌️
And if you like that, you can do the same thing (3 point stabilization) with a mini excavator. In the skid it’s easy peasy, on an excavator it’s pretty difficult but super satisfying. I came up with that myself (not the first one im sure) so I only know from my experience with that technique, but here is how it goes.
You put the blade in front of you, straighten the boom out, extend the boom all the way out und put the bucket flat on the ground. You put enough pressure on the boom to lift the blade by less then one inch. Now you start grading with the blade going forward, bucket touching and dragging all the way in front of you. You can’t really cut to deep, because your boom will keep you up on grade. If your tracks walk Into a low, your machine won’t tip forward because the boom will hold you up. If your run over a hump your machine won’t tip up because the boom is so far out it will glue you to the ground.
You will also have more cutting force vs regular blading, because there is a lot more weight sitting on the blade but the tracks are both firm and flat on the ground for ideal traction. Essentially you are becoming a grader, except that instead of front wheels, you are using your boom and bucket all the way in front as the third point of stabilization.
The difficult part is, you need to adjust the pressure from the bucket on the ground as you are going, the boom/bucket will need to come up and down as you are blading. The difficult part is you need to operate both foot pedals, both joysticks, the blade AND the boom angle all at the same time, which can be tricky by itself but even more tricky because you are going the pump will restrict flow to certain cylinders if you are moving all of them.
The secret to make this work, is ground pressure from the bucket up front, bucket angle and boom angle. Too much Presse = you are pushing too much material with bucket.
Not enough pressure = your bucket will lose ground contact.
Wrong boom angle/pressure = machine will pull/walk wrong way. Wrong bucket angle = push too much material with bucket.
I found to release bucket pressure I go boom up, and to increase ground contact I go bucket out. That’s why you want to start with the bucket level, because you can curl it out up to 45° and quickly gain a foot In height when you need it.
But boom down/bucket out require the least amount of hydraulic pressure and work therefore way better then boom up or stick in.
With the pedal for the boom angle you can somewhat help steer the machine as you are grading, you literally turn into a pivoting grader. Bucket positioning is also very important, it needs to be far out but the exact angle will decide the result. The bucket dragging will mess things up in front of you but the blade will leave a perfect grade behind it. But the bucket will push material, where and how much it pushes is very important. So there are 16 functions of the machines you need to operate at the same time and just as many variables on the ground that will decide wether it works or will be a big fockup and that technique will mess things up if you do it wrong so you can let me tell you, it is difficult. If it doesn’t work for you probably doing it wrong haha but try it when you have time.
And the harder the surface, the better it works. If you ever need to regrade an existing driveway and you have a mini, try it. You’ll be surprised. But it takes lots of practice to become good at it, and you will cut grades maybe even better then a motor grader, AT FULL WALKING SPEED!!!! if you get the technique to work just right. Good luck🕹
@@DMAX-tp4pc hello. I like VERY MUCH your explanation. You are very good and wise. Very few people tell the things they know clearly ! I WILL TRY IT. Last time I had to grade a pad with my 13 ton wheel excavator and tilt bucket, I had terrible pain. THANK YOU I will study your science, I feel you are 100% true.
@@renesolaire8319 yes, I’ve gotten better too since then. Now I grade with the bobcat going forward only, with the bucket flat. Going forward is the best, if you have enough skill and experience. Till then I would definitely try what I described above! But you have to know that eventually, you have to be able to perfectly grade a road going forward.
Same with the excavator, grading always with the blade going forward. Not because of quality, but going forward is the most efficient.
Blading with an excavator is also something you need to have a lot of practice eventually.
But you can achieve the same 3 point stabilization also with an excvavator. If you grade with the blade but put your bucket on the ground in front and you slide the bucket while you grading. Bucket barely touching the ground with an angle that slides easily. Then grade with the blade. You cannot tip forward or back because you have the 3rd point of stabilization with the bucket. The further out you reach the better it gets. But you can only reach out as far till it doesn’t work anymore. Going over a crest or through a dip you need to keep the bucket close or it won’t work. You can easily put A LOT of stress on the machine that way, be careful. It should work easily, if it doesn’t there is too much pressure on the bucket or it is too far away. It should slide easily, firm ground pressure.
It takes a lot of practice to really figure it out, but you can pull perfect grades just like a grader. Way better then a bobcat could. You do it like that a lot, eventually you won’t need the 3rd point and can do it without it. Practice. Right now I blade out several thousand feet of road each week, and trench just as much 😄 it don’t matter, if you understand and follow my instructions, you’ll do just fine!
And always blade slow and precise.
Always! Precision over speed!!
You need to grade and blade as slow as you need to, to get it right the first time. And stop blading if you are making it worse. A little pass is better then a bad one. Take little bites, as long each pass makes it better, it will be perfect! Continuous passes without ever letting off, that’s where the money is. Slow and precise. I mean, go fast! I blade full speed, unless it’s the finish grade…the most important thing is, not to make things worse with that blade.
Little passes are a good thing too, you need to run up and down a dozen times anyways for compaction. If you can make the road flatter every time, it will be perfect in the end. Never ever forget to put a crown in the road!!!
If you are stabilizing the 3rd point with the bucket, your machine will lift up at the blade. It will lift up the low side, you will lose pitch. The machine will level itself.
You run a very high risk of losing your crown with that method, unless that’s part of your plan - and you know how to put it back.
You can fuck up 1000 ft of road in 10 minutes with that bad boy, so make sure each pass makes it better, never worse. Have a plan, think 7 steps ahead.
Also not to forget, a road is only as good as the subgrade!! Both need to be perfect.
Good luck to you brother 👍 if you get really good at that you can make a fuckton of money even with a small machine. If possible I regrade every single gravel road I dig a trench, even if I dig 15 ft away fron the road.😄 I never asked if anybody wants me to do it or if it was necessary. I could make it look like nobody was ever there…but I just fix the entire road, on the fly. Nobody ever complained. It just needs to look good and I get my experience and some fun, it becomes very relaxing 😎 but I learned you can blade anybody’s road and pull every ditch you want without asking, it just needs to look a lot better afterwards 😇😂 I fixed hundreds of roads for free 😅 so get your experience whenever you can get away with it that’s what I’m saying that’s the only way if you really want to get good at it. It’s just time and diesel. And don’t let me catch you holding a rake, I haven’t touched one in a long time. A machine can do it 10 times better then the best rake man could ever do. If you can 😄 all you gonna need is a pair of boots. good luck
I am totally amazed at the effort you put in your comments. They are the longest I have ever seen on UA-cam. You are a very kind, and considerate person😊
If anyone is looking to do this the product is also commonly referred to as millings or grindings. You may even get lucky and find a paving contractor that will give them to you because it costs us to dispose of them. A quick tip, if you put it down on a very hot day and mist it with diesel prior to compacting it you'll damn near have a standard asphalt driveway.
Looks great - any updates on how this has faired over time? Am about to start on a 700' run through wooded acreage - was planning 2" with crusher run over the top on the bad areas, just crusher on the normal areas. Curious about this asphalt base material now though. Thanks for the vid!
In areas that were hard packed already it's holding up great! Everywhere that I had to fill has sunk the same as any standard gravel. I think a large stone base would have helped me in those areas. One thing I really like about the crushed asphalt is the lower dust level, and the price!
Jake... from State Fun. i subbed just for that
Thanks for the sub!
The state I live in tears up highways and roads and leaves massive piles of this ‘crushed pavement’ all around. Instead if they had any brains, they would sell as truck, trailer, or dump load to folks, put money back in their budgets, and allow the people who actually kind of already own it, to purchase for use as a better gravel road. That looks like an amazing gravel road there boss
Yeah, Ive been quite happy with it. Big benefit is the dust from this is much less than a crush and run road.
Someone is illegally dumping the asphalt millings in your state. The asphalt company who mills up and repaves the roads, usually have the dump fee for millings included in their pricing when bidding on the job. I myself have done it on the side of the highway where I saw someone else had done it. It seemed to become a thing and a month or so later there were 8 to 10 piles of millings. Nobody should've dumped there.
@@NdaKeekz the state allowed it in the right away. At least 10 or more years ago, still there. Guess it’s ok or nobody cares, it’s pointless because it wouldn’t have taken but a few months to let folks take it and use it for driveways etc. but here we are
what if “newer” recent crushed was put on top ? at the end of each batch at the plant there is one ton dumped in a pile , (left over) who gets lucky and gets that pile ? (fresh)
Where do you get the calcium flakes, large enough quantity?
We call it asphalt millings
Compaction and some diesel sprayed on will make it like a hot rolled asphalt driveway in no time
The guy I called to haul it said millings and crushed asphalt were different around here, but that's probably just a difference in what the suppliers are calling it.
dont add diesel fuel to RAP. Looks better shortterm but breaks the RAP down. Just get a surface bonding and most of the agent beneath doesnt rebond. Started using RAP 10 years ago on the farm. A little over 1500 loads been put out since then. The only spot that hasn't held up is the part we put diesel on.
How much land was 1500loads covering? Trying to figure out how much needed per acre. And what size screening?
@@jordanmendler1786 roads over 1500 acres. The loads we got were dumptrucks so 20 cubic yards each. I would have to do the math but it works out the same as gravel, sand,... 20 cubic yards. Depending on the base we have before the RAP at 6" we can make it about 50 yards comfortably. I have found that if you make it 5+ inches it rebonds great. Anything under and it never really bonds and is like having crush and run. The plant screened it and I didnt have a choice on size so don't know that one. I will ask next time I get some.
@@jordanmendler1786 1500 pound or 15 ton dump truck load? They usually say 2000 pounds per cubic yard. Might be less for millings?? Depending on how thick you are putting it on slice that many layers off cubic yard and convert to square feet. 6 inches thick will cover 54 square feet. 4 inches thick will cover 81 square feet. Sorry if you use metric.
Is there a gofundme for tires?
Great vid thx for sharing your experience.
Lol the orange wheel with bald tire is a spare I've been rocking since popping one off the bead. It's nice for flattening dirt and asphalt though!
You should also chip coat that well.
Is that calcium chips that you're referring to? Im trying to figure out how I want to do the final layer after construction is done. Honestly it's holding up really well especially considering the construction trucks running over it
That skid steer is begging for grease
How well does it hold up to tracked equipment? Like steering and pivoting? Does it cut it up?
We have a mini excavator with rubber tracks that actually doesn't cut it up bad at all. Ours has packed down extremely well
@StateFun nice. We have a kubota u17 and a b2601 for our landscape company. The road to our building is old rock and dirt mix. It's always getting torn up. This seems like a good alternative.
Roto-mill?
What size millings are those in the video? Like is it 3/4" screened or 3/8"? And how many tons did you put down on how much space?
I don't know the size, mine isn't screened. There's some large chunks still there but most of it is really small like pea gravel. We spread 5 loads over about 500 ft here. They're 15 ton dump truck loads
How much a ton if its not a secret
@@chrisseglem3300 around here it seems to be around $400-500 for a 15 ton load delivered. Probably different in other areas.
How did it hold up?! I wanting to do exactly this
We did a fresh coat on top after building was finished, and it's holding together nicely. The areas that were packed have done better than the fill, so I'd suggest some larger crushed stone or concrete for base if you're filling an area, but once it packs in, it holds up well. Even with all the Amazon drivers running up and down it!
Roller?
I believe you would have better tracktion on that machine with steel tracks on the wheels.
I definitely would, and would love to have a set one day. Unfortunately they're pretty pricey, and I can't justify the cost right now.
Fair point :-)
Do you wish you had a track loader ?
Sometimes, but then I remember how much more they cost!
How much was each load of asphalt?
In my area it costed the same as crushed concrete at $450 a load. Fuel prices make delivery costs fluctuate pretty quickly though 😬
@@StateFun thanks just wanted a rough cost
Where can you get the crushed asphalt from?
@@trevoroneill8131 I called a delivery guy my family uses for gravel and he knew a place and gave me a quote. I was also able to find multiple people around me that sold it on FB marketplace.
@@trevoroneill8131 check any local gravel yard or quarry in your area, they crush it the same way they do stone.
Give that machine some grease
Glad somebody said it!
Update?
In areas of packed ground it held together great, other places that I filled needed some more work during the winter to smooth it back out and then topped it off with more crushed asphalt. Overall, if I did it again I'd put some larger stone base if the ground isn't packed well enough.
Why not rent a big roller for a day?
I'm thinking heavily about that for when I do the top coat. It would definitely help a lot
your gonna have to seal it or it will get very dusty then fall apart if you dont seal it .
I'm thinking after construction I'll put a sealer on it. It honestly wasn't very dusty during the peak of the summer. I'm very happy even without sealer.
@@StateFun i did 4 inchs of stone dust and 1/2 in rock mix on a 50x100 pad for parking watered it am and nihgt then ran a compator of it till you coulnt hold it from shaking so much. the se
It's all going to get squished into the mud when it rains. You should have put down cloth before putting it down.