How To True A Disc Brake Rotor On Your Bike
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- Опубліковано 21 сер 2024
- Simon is here to let you know how to lose that irritating noise when you've got a slightly bent disc brake rotor. Silence!
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Ex-Professional Cyclist Simon Richardson is here to tell you how to straighten your disc rotors so that you can get rid of the dreaded rubbing. There is nothing better than the finished result, literally ending in silence! Simon managed to sort out his rotor that had been out of shape since 2006!
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How To Fix Noisy Brakes | Road Bike Maintenance 📹 gcn.eu/2fydizM
Should Disc Brakes Be Allowed? - GCN Asks The Pros 📹 gcn.eu/dQ
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I love the way Si answered my question preemptively. I was wondering he bent the rotor on purpose to make this video. But no, just something he has been putting off for more than a decade. Good stuff.
Thank you for posting this!! I was just able to true my bike's back disc brake using this video all by myself, and I feel so happy and independent! :D
Nice one 👍 👌 👏 😀
I did mine using a dial gauge and got them within 0.1mm - Possibly overkill. What I did find useful was to number the bolt holes to give me a reference. That what i would know if I had over corrected and gave me a clue how much force was needed to make a change.
Finger oil? Alcohol or Metholated spirits. will completely decrease it (no smoking!).
0.1mm!!! That is great! I thought I was picky about tolerances and perfection. You are awesome! :)
pbassred or drinking it lol
If you put metho on your rotor, you will destroy your pads. Isopropyl only.
My front rotor has been driving me nuts for months. I have now invested in a truing fork (the Park Tool one is only £12) and now I have beautiful silence. Happy? yes!
Just used this video and trued my front disc. So happy right now. Thank you!
Better idea is to remove the rotor, lay it on a sheet of glass or a polished marble countertop (etc), something known to be perfectly flat and gently tap around the edge with your fingertip to see if and where it rocks or moves- then flip it over and repeat on the other side. You can use a sharpie etc to mark the areas that need to be straightened. That will tell you if, where and how much it's out of alignment. It will also show you if it is bent at the tabs where it attaches to the hub, something that spinning it while attached to the hub will not.
Isolating the bent part by clamping the straight part in a vice (lined with cardboard, etc so it doesn't scratch) to straighten *just* the bent part will prevent you from bending one area as you try to align another. That's the risk of attempting to bend the rotor while it's installed on the wheel, you can wind up chasing your tail.
Good advice. I have chased that bend around the rotor many times.
disagree. removing the rotor can be a PIA.
@@genec99 6 small bolts and an Allen wrench? It takes a minute. Maybe you don't know what a rotor is.
Just bought a Canyon with discs for winter bike, resisted discs up until now because of this very reason! Have calipers on both other bikes and beginning to think I should have stayed that way.....modern dual pivot calipers are just as effective anyway!
The mechanics at my shop always use the other side of the truing tool, and bend the spider, not the brake surface. This helps to create a gradual bend in more of the rotor, rather that an extreme bend in a small section - if that makes sense.
Thanks GCN for this video! I've trued disc rotors before, but they can be so tricky. Its great to get a few more tips in the bag. It does make it easier that I have a great truing stand. I've tried to true them while still on the vehicle (for my 170 lb tricycle) and THAT is tough! :)
My left index finger was actually bleeding everywhere before I decided to watch this 😅… the accuracy!
Aha!!! Exactly what I was looking for!!!
THANK YOU!!!
Thanks Simon what a great fella you are
You should make a program about how to grind down the caliber mounts that might not be 100% "level" with the axles.
Park Tools have a tool to adjust that.
Another very useful video, as usual, but got distracted when I noticed the severe cross-chaining on that wonderful Orbea :-(
Washing hands, however thorough will not get rid of the oil on your skin. 30 seconds after washing it will replenish itself and transfer to the rotors. Either use gloves or clean up after adjustment with IPA (iso propyl alcohol) or wipes.
I agree, bu then again there's never a job that requires you to touch the actual brake track anyway, so it's best to get into the habit of not touching them at all, really
Love your workshop videos Si, I don't even have disks but I wanted to watch how you did it.
Great video as always! Now...I just need to be somehow reminded to do this in 11 years.
Please make a new video with riders impersonations
Si can impersonate Lance by smashing the rest of the crew up a climb.
Or by making the " zip it "
A P you are totally right that have to make an other rider impersonation
this couldn't have been a better timed upload
thanks. hit the spot. and i love your sense of humor.
In lack of option 1 and 2 I used my fingers - that worked too. 👍🏼
Great short vid! Love the advice on using a wrench instead of the specialized tool. Thanks! :)
How do I distinguish whether it is the wheel or disc that needs truing? I put together a new Walmart Hyper Ebike with 700c wheels and mechanical disc brakes. You can hear the disc rub, but you can also see the wheel wobble. At first UA-cam convinced me I have to true by going spoke to spoke, but I hadn't even thought of the disc being the culprit until I saw your video.
Can u use Needle nose pliers
Don't do it near the caliper: you'll kink it! do it away from the caliper. What about the rotor truing gauge on your TS-2/2.2/3/4? You can put a dial gauge on it too!
this is why you should use v brakes if you dont want to go crazy
Take a marker and number the "spokes" of the rotor to speed up the process
That is a great idea! It's easy to lose track of where you have trued. Of course, I might be too picky about marking my gear. Hmmm...maybe i'll have to get over it.
jfkusa123 but that will add precious weight to the bike
Substitute blue painters tape for the marker. Clean any residual adhesive (unlikely there will be any) with a small amount of rubbing alcohol, if you are so inclined.
Nice one 👍 👌 😊 thanks!
I misred the title: how to turn your rotor. I was like: has gcn also run out of ideas?!
Is there any chance that we could have some videos about single speed bike selection and best set ups?
GCN is the best
Have we started filming on the other side of the pond? It's a spanner over here not a wrench or did you say wench
John Gibbs it's an adjustable wrench in the UK. A spanner is a different tool.
Looks like my five years as a technical apprenticeship and seven years to degree level were wasted then. We were taught ring spanner, open ended spanner and adjustable spanner and always use them in that order wherever possible.
John Gibbs feel free to tell me what swimming certificates etc you have too if you want? Cos if you want to play the degree game we can ;) while it's not incorrect to call it an adjustable spanner (not sure why you mention the other two) it is more commonly called an adjustable wrench, no matter the side of the pond you are on. So no need to try be a smart arse eh.
Sounds like Si has had experience getting fingers caught in the Disc Brake Rotor, ouch
How does Si manage to do these maintenance videos without ruining his dainty hands and manicured nails?
tq u soo much for this video. im running a cycle store, i need this tool. how can i get this one
Is that one of the first Avid (polygon) rotors?
Unrelated to the video, I am going to start biking and have two bikes that I cant decide between and am looking for opinions. First bike is the Trek Alpha 1000 and the second is the GT GTR series 4??
The GT GTR series 4 looks like it has better specs
I wonder if this is an issue regarding aggressive braking or just the inherit one piston design of many calipers? Would a 2 piston design limit brake rotor warping?
Just a cloth, put over the disc and bend it slightly with you hands. No oils, no silly tools and all done in a few minutes.
Should have mentioned that it's easy to clean the rotor off of any residues with alcohol wipes.
Personally I managed to get my finger in a disc break. Went straight through the nail and down to the bone.
No 😨 👎 ⛔ 😢
Because disc brakes are superior.
I true my 622mm rotors with a spoke wrench.
How do I know which direction to bend it?
GMBN already done it.
Where would this bike shipped from?
Can an untrue wheel cause the brake pad to scuff the rotor?
Sram red etap hydro! Lucky bastards. Can we get an overview/review? Any changes from regular etap or regular hydro?
Guys, why can't manufacturers just round the edge of a disc rotor to stop people moaning about safety? To my mind it doesn't affect any performance or function. I'm probably wrong.
As far as I'm aware you're correct. It makes no difference as the pad doesn't contact that bit. Anyway whats more dangerous a rotor or a chainring to the face.
That would "sharpen" them and make them less safe.
swissstop.ch/catalyst/
By the way, I think discs are perfectly safe, but this would just stop the sceptics moaning.
Some advertise that. Hope, Shimano, and a few others. To be fair, the only sharp disc I have found on my stash was a very cheap, stamped old Avid rotor.
I filed the edges on all of mine- not so much out of safety, but I found that filing them and the edge of the pads makes entry and wheel changes faster.
Order a new one. Easy.
I've never received a bent one but if I did I'd return it.
@@tobortine My first bike that I just got from ordering has both brakes bent just enough to squeal.
@@dangerousdoggo5465 Very annoying.
@@tobortine Indeed. Am ordering a 5Kw electric hub motor though, wich comes with hydraulic brakes. Hope that's not like this!!! Would bicycle shops fix these problems?
Both my Shimano Rt86 rotors are slightly bent from 2 different sources, talked to local shop when buying park tool truing tool, he said most actually come bent and need a tweak to prevent rubbing complaints..
how si is with truing that rotor, is kinda how I am with properly cleaning my bike.😕
Does buying new rotors help?
I've bought brand-new DuraAce rotors and have still found runout right out of the box!
how to tell if the rotor is warped or the wheel or both.
cool
is there anything that not park tool?
Surprised the bicycle world hasn't gone with floating rotors yet. They've been on motorcycles for decades.
hope makes one but it is heavy and expensive better to just get a slightly bigger rotor
I have a new bike which i bought from a real bike shop but its disc brakes and wheels are a little bit not true
kenny van Vlaminck vs. matt stephens
How to true a disk brake rotor? Getting rid of them and getting back callipers :)
Ur wheel have a huge bend.
Disk brakes are better why?
Custom dial indicator setup, for truing the rotors.
shrani.si/f/Z/xZ/4UGZ8tlj/20170523083919.jpg
shrani.si/f/m/bI/38jwWxgi/20170523.jpg
Ahhh those shifters 😩😭😵😵😵 nasty
This was a pretty weak maintenance monday.
SMASH IT WITH A HAMMER! The tool drawers say so!
Or just single speed bikes when ever
.. Or just clean the rotor afterwards...
Rim brakes and a wonderful girlfriend vs. disk brakes and being single. I think I'll wait till age 70 to try disk brakes.
So many luddites in the comments section. Maybe you should install rim brakes on your car.
What cars and bicycles have in common? Stupid comparison
All cars (and motorcycles) built in the last ~30 years have disc brakes, proving that it is excellent, fully developed, well established technology that's very reliable and effective. Not to mention mountain bikes for the past 10+ years.
People talk about disc brakes on road bikes as if it's something new, something scary and unknown that needs to be examined and talked about with suspicion.
It's like discussing whether this newfangled system of pen and paper is as good as using a hammer and chisel on a stone tablet for writing down your ideas. Jeez.
Why don't you replace the suspension of your car with steel, aluminum or carbon fiber rods, put on skinny tires and stop fast in the rain? We will discuss when you're out of the ICU.
It has nothing to do with being opposed to new technology - or in fact, wanting to destroy it. The reason car breaks work well is that you have tires and suspension that can cope with the loads and stresses of the brakes. 25 section bike tires are not designed for that. When you apply the disc brakes, all that energy is being dispersed into skinny little tires with no suspension to help absorb the energy - this is bad. As we trend up to 30 section tires, and more compliant frames on the bike, disc brakes will be better suited to bikes because the ability to disperse the momentum being arrested by them will be better.
Rob, you talk like you know something. You're off a bit though. Braking force is limited by the friction between the tire and pavement. Suspension helps keep the tire in contact with the ground on rough roads, but under most circumstances isn't a limiting factor for road bikes. Through axles solve any issues you may have experienced with flexy hub/fork interface and remove brake rub as the hub is always properly aligned.
The benefit of disc brakes is that they are more powerful and require less force at the lever. This makes it easier to modulate the brakes. This is why disc brakes shine in poor weather conditions. Better modulation makes for less locking up and shorter stopping distances. But, if you are hamfisted with the brakes, it doesn't matter what braking system you are using, You are going to lock up the brakes and skid. If you never brake at the limit on rim brakes, you probably won't notice much of a difference with disc brakes either.
Essentially we are saying the same thing about tires, but you have made the point more specific; contact patch is a part of how effective braking is at stopping the bike - not just stop the wheel. When you stop energy needs to be displaced. On MTB a lot of that force goes into the front shocks. On road bike, that whole front assembly is rigid, so while some disc brakes maybe easier to modulate - which by the way is completely relative to the manufacturer and not at all standard for all manufacturers, the ability to lock and slide is greater with discs than with rim brakes. In 30 years riding a bike, when even when slowing from 40 MPH downhill I have never locked my brakes. I truly understand the benefits of discs coming from a Mtb background - but I can also see the downsides when applied to the road.
There's a reason why it has taken this long for disc brakes to make it to road bikes even though they have been around for years - the combination of higher speeds, smaller tire/road contact patch and no suspension/rigid frames made them unsuitable.
I truly do not believe it is any coincidence that as discs hit the road scene, tire widths have been going from 23 - 25 - 28 - 30 and now to 32. In just 3 years tire section has increased from 5 - 9 mm! So much so that frames need to be redesigned to compensate for larger tires, and disc brake stresses. I stand by my assertion that we are in our infancy with discs on bikes, and in time, both the discs and the bikes they are mounted on will get better. That said, discs have their own particular challenges as does every "new" technology - those challenges may not be acceptable to all people when you weigh the pros and cons. This does not, however, make us all antiquated curmudgeons who go out of our way to avoid new tech.
What's up with Si's hair? Did he lose a bet?
I hate those Fake brake Rotors
Nice looking bike but poor quality control or poor transport.Rear wheel has major issues right out of the box. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Rear axle is bent! Derailleur is misaligned.Since the rear wheel comes assembled I would have expected better.Assembly instructions poorly written, but that was not unexpected...just annoying.I just had the bike checked at a shop and was told that I should contact the seller about getting a whole rear wheel assembly with cartridge. (The bike shop could not do anything to help me).Not a good experience with this bike, so lesson learned.Added 3 stars for excellent customer serviceUpdate Sept 8 2020Just received a complete replacement wheel for free. Great service and an otherwise fine bike.
this will sound dumb, but why would oil from your finger affect the brake? The road has motor oil and other oily stuff. If the point of disk breaks is they work better in the wet, I would think they aren't more susceptible to oil than rim breaks.
woolfel don't you just hate it when your rim breaks?
haha, typo. brakes, breaks, all the same right :)
Anyways, grease and oil on your disc brake pads will make your brakes squeal. A lot.
I would say both or you are correct. I've had grease from fingers AND from the road (especially in the rain). most of the time the squeal goes away by the time I get home or when they dry the next day, but if not I think both situations can benefit from a cleaning. actually, my car's brakes squeal worse, but that's because I rarely use it and when I do there is a layer of rust to remove. :)
I've done messy cold rides in New England that made the whole bike squeek. I try to keep my bike clean, but I don't go nuts though. The tiny bit of grease on clean hands shouldn't make the breaks squeek, unless you're the Toxic Avenger.
How much cost is this bike. I am a cyclist from India jammu&kashmir. plz tell me where can i buy this ? plz
Instead of waistline your time why not spend the cheap money and replace the damn rotors?
I am sold. Sticking with rim brakes for my new bike
You're missing out on better braking.
can't race on discs... bloody useless unless CXing.
tell that to every industry that makes brakes other than roadies... cars, motorcycles, atvs and MTBs are all disk. The only reason commuter bikes aren't all disk is because rim brakes are cheaper.
At the very least try it before saying it's worse (especially if you're wrong according to most peoples who have tried it).
I got a Trek Domane with discs and frankly don't feel any difference between them and rim brakes on my other bikes. Nowhere near the difference I felt when I replaced the off-brand brakes on my old Raleigh with Ultegras. Got the disc Domane so I could run wider tires, but clearance between the chain stays limits this Domane to at most 32mm tires. And between the discs and beefier stays and thru axles to withstand the greater forces at the caliper mounts (and the isolastic coupler) the bike is a lot (4lbs) heavier than a comparably priced Emonda (which would have Ultra rather than 105 components). It seems that discs are a lot fussier than rim brakes. If I rode in the rain or mud or had carbon rims I might feel more excited about discs.
Skooteh, you forgot about regenerative brakes used on hybrids and electric cars. Far better than discs, nothing to wear out. I want a regenerative front hub that recharges the Di2 battery! Controlled from WiFi levers of course. Paired with a rim brake at the rear.
There are those of us that ride in all weather conditions. That is where disc brakes shine. If you are only riding on bluebird days, you might not notice much difference. Also, your weight comparison is a bit false as the two bikes you are comparing have very different purposes in mind. The Emonda is by design a light weight climbing bike, the Domane is a sportive bike built for a more comfortable ride. It would be more accurate to compare weight between a disc and non disc version of similar bikes. In those cases, the difference is usually less than a pound. As UCI teams regularly add weight to their bikes to meet the 6.8 Kg limit, I don't see this as an issue.
On regenerative brakes, that would add a considerable amount of weight as you are essentially adding a very strong electric motor to your hub.
Brake squeal, misalignment, overheating - I thought they were maintenance free, oh just hype? Now I have to true the wheel and the brakes. No thanks Simon. Only thing getting bent over here is the consumer.
Next up "how to remove dust caps"I think you could do something better like choosing a cycling club and going out on their ride or anything really rather than a shameless park tool advert..
Bungle2010 Sorry you took my comment the wrong way it was meant tounge in cheek,I'm not an elitist snob,far from it.As for putting beginners off their isn't anyone more ready to help people just getting into cycling,chill Winstone.
Or you could just use rim brakes...
Yea and back to wooden wheels, no punctures! I will never use rim brakes on my shiny new carbon wheels. But do what you want, Luddite
Place in a wheelie bin and send to landfill. Replace with rim brakes......
Agree, but I'd keep the tyre and tube, bin the rest. ;)
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