Kirk, see if one of the good local sparks will do a video with you on cable zones and how they apply in a house. It would be good information for the viewers/public and also for the many other trades that aren’t aware of them. Might save some drilled or screwed cables for customers. Merry Christmas.
3.30 . RCD protection would exist in that house and at least on the new or extended circuits so no need to bury cables. Couldn't really see more relastic options for electrician if going past a lintel. A thing called capping or oval conduit is often used on surface mounted cables being plastered over but given the angles on this pier the electrician said bugger that....speak to plasterer instead which is alright... if you can.
Hi Kirk, I'm an elec-chicken as you say lol. I wouldnt blame the plasterer for putting adhesive over cables I'd blame the sparky for not putting the cables into oval conduit. Thats the way I do it and the best way in my opinion, then the plasterer can do what he likes doesnt make any difference to the cables.
i like to use a little bit of batten where the bricks were missing and screw it into both boards with some grab adhesive on both sides which helps lock it all together and gives you something to screw a bead to never thought of doing it your way kirk but learning new tricks every day 👍 got some of the pink sbr recently too and its lovely stuff
Nice job, been there when plaster came off a lintel loosened by two sets of window changes over the years on a sixties house. It was a heavy lump. Stepped clear and cleaned up and repaired the results. Plenty of adhesive and well tied in. 😀
I noticed you dotted the cheeks first, I would have put the lid on and then dotted up to it, as it makes for a good solid fix .i.e. no cracking corners. But, we all do it differently.
Additional reason to take off the reveal plaster?‐ is that they very rarely are square. As the plaster is usually thicker at the frame. Best to cut off and start fresh. Also prevents any cracking over the join between old and new. Picked up a tip there for smaller dabs on the head! We always use props. Thanks Kirk. Great job👌
Hopefully the existing brickwork was cut out where the new cavity walls join the existing house or the gypsum based board adhesive will draw damp through the brickwork. Insta stick foam is good for metal lintels. Nice job as always. 👍
Love watching you Kirk just so enjoyable to watch😊 Question now mate if that’s a normal standard cavity lintel, you don’t have to put pink boards on the extension….. if it was an RSJ then normally it’s 2×12.5 normal plasterboard or one pink but that’s not a steel beam but I understand your logic and if the building inspector said so then he’s the boss. Great work as usual really love picking up the little tips.👍🏻 Unless there’s different rules, in building regs up your way…. Which could be possible as they always seem to change their mind like the weather.
building regs are the same throughout england. the functional requirements are law. you're spot on though, different building inspectors have different interpretations of how to meet the requirements. it's a bit of a mess to be honest, i think we'd be better with nationwide prescriptive requirements instead.
Sparks have started using oval hollow conduits now on some of the jobs I go to , must be a cheaper option to the regular capping they used to use . Its proud of existing plaster or too heavy to dab over everytime . That just gets ripped off. Simple as that
Hi Kirk, great work as usual. I wish I lived near you, I'd love to do a bit of work with you for free to learn a few tricks. Don't worry, I'm 60 so not after pinching your work 😂. I've put an RSJ in my house. I used 2 pieces of plasterboard to cover it. I was told that's ok rather than using pink board. I'm trying to understand why you need pink board. Surely everything else would burn before the RSJ distorted?
@markrainford1219 thanks for your reply. Don't think I'm stupid, but the RSJ is supporting wooden beams that are protected by normal plasterboard. So I'd have thought the wooden beams would burn through and collapse before the RSJ was distorted. Anyway, I'll look it up online. Cheers mate 👍
Another fine job Kirk. One question: what would you normally use to fill in the void in the cavity, when we're talking about conservatory doors etc? Cheers matey and all the best 👍
Dabbing came from the practice in Tudor times 'Wattle and Dobe' as in 'adobe', a lime rich plaster - the adobe - would be lobbed between the timbers onto lath to build up layers to flush and float. Kir, sir; @6:02 there is a fault line that looks like movement in the lintel that has snapped the brick above it clean in half. And the block above... loks dodgy (from a structural POV). Looks new. I think every kid , both young and old, has to explore the dynamism of suction.
No need to knock that board off you can overclad that head with fire board I’ve never known a building inspector say you can’t they are only interested in knowing there is pink board on it.
The cavity looks no wider than 200mm from left to right. Sure when you're framing a stud wall, your studs are placed at 400mm centers behind the plaster board, it makes no difference. If it was a bigger cavity, let's say over 400mm, then you'd want to frame something behind it.
@@azza1793catnics spec is 1 hour fire resistance when covered in plaster or normal plasterboard. I’ve not normally had to fire board this type in lintle only RSJ’s.
Nice video and understand all but when your on a price in a room that someone else has boarded and the ceiling boards are bouncing because joiner hasn't done his job properly but you need to get through the day and put the cornflakes on the table at home, the proper way of doing things goes out the window 👍
Study sales and marketing, focus on private work, bring in your own work. Eat steak. I'm not trying to sound smart. It's the truth. Become a great salesman and get your own work for top money. If you need help with this, let me know and I'll help you mate
@sky37blue it was dreadful stuff. I worked for an old man in Edinburgh in a big house where he rented rooms and he had it in the toilets up till early 2000,'s he must have had a stash from the 60's!
My plasterer mate is always banging on about what a great plasterer he is and he's got the best plasterers forearm, looks more like the best w👌💦💦ers forearm to me 😂😂😂 nice to see not all you plasterers are deluded 😁 good job pal 🙌
@@entergenericedgynamehere8751 Because the electrical cables are outside the correct zones, so should be covered with conduit. Electrical cable should be parallel or inline to an electrical outlet, this is to ensure any other trade person knows the zones to avoid when drilling etc.
2:23 So you lot do not protect the existing floor where you were working on with all that crap on top , scratching the hell out of it and no thick plastic separation wall from that kitchen ? I guess the professional builders over here in Europe do things a lot different than by youre standards . 🙄🙄🤮🤮👎👎👎👎This is a extention build by American standards so when there is a good storm , the entire " extention " is going to flapper in the wind 😂😂🤣🤣👎👎, our extention was complete build with bricks and not that flimsy crap youre using.
A true proper plasterer you is kirk. Your old man taught you well.
Kirk, see if one of the good local sparks will do a video with you on cable zones and how they apply in a house. It would be good information for the viewers/public and also for the many other trades that aren’t aware of them. Might save some drilled or screwed cables for customers. Merry Christmas.
I’d be happy to if needed. cables in this video, not ideal, but look to be in zones regs wise
3.30 . RCD protection would exist in that house and at least on the new or extended circuits so no need to bury cables. Couldn't really see more relastic options for electrician if going past a lintel. A thing called capping or oval conduit is often used on surface mounted cables being plastered over but given the angles on this pier the electrician said bugger that....speak to plasterer instead which is alright... if you can.
Hi Kirk, I'm an elec-chicken as you say lol. I wouldnt blame the plasterer for putting adhesive over cables I'd blame the sparky for not putting the cables into oval conduit. Thats the way I do it and the best way in my opinion, then the plasterer can do what he likes doesnt make any difference to the cables.
i like to use a little bit of batten where the bricks were missing and screw it into both boards with some grab adhesive on both sides which helps lock it all together and gives you something to screw a bead to never thought of doing it your way kirk but learning new tricks every day 👍 got some of the pink sbr recently too and its lovely stuff
So good watching your videos, could watch them all day. Kudos.
Great workmanship kirk
What a first class job your a true legend, have a wonderful Christmas and a successful 2025. 👍
Kirk Merry Christmas to you and your family, enjoy the break, thanks for the great content and a few laughs
Excellent! A true master!
Nice job, been there when plaster came off a lintel loosened by two sets of window changes over the years on a sixties house. It was a heavy lump. Stepped clear and cleaned up and repaired the results. Plenty of adhesive and well tied in. 😀
Always in awe of your professionalism. Merry Christmas and happy new year to you and your crew 😊
I noticed you dotted the cheeks first, I would have put the lid on and then dotted up to it, as it makes for a good solid fix .i.e. no cracking corners. But, we all do it differently.
That is some perfect boarding especially That triangle peice ubove thr lintle it looked like it grew there That would be a pleasure to skim on
Merry Christmas Kirk to you and your family. Looking forward to another year of great content. Take care.
i like the respect you treated that cavity fire sock with. all tradespeople have a responsibility for fire safety.
Loving your content Boss ❤️✌️
Additional reason to take off the reveal plaster?‐ is that they very rarely are square. As the plaster is usually thicker at the frame. Best to cut off and start fresh. Also prevents any cracking over the join between old and new.
Picked up a tip there for smaller dabs on the head! We always use props. Thanks Kirk. Great job👌
Hi kirk, can I skim straight over travertine tiles? Obviously it will be sbrd. The tiles and the walls they are on are solid.
Tasty bit of work well done 👏
Have a great Christmas Kirk, hope you and your family have a great time.
Thankyou mate 🙂🙏
Good knowledge on them fire safety details .
If you lived down my way, I would keep you a very busy man. Respect.
I wanna change careers. And this guy helps me belive everyday i can do it .
As a gas engineer
I enjoyed watching that
I don’t know anything about building but love these videos
Have you a video doing a media wall mate ?
Bloomin neat plasterboarding and all dot and dabbed. Bet that plasterboard weren't damp ! 😅
A great bit of measuring at the end there Kirk 😀 ... Never My Forte` 😵💫 ... I used the old 'Lathe & Plaster' analogy as My excuse! 😂
As a scaffolder I really enjoyed that video 😂👍🏻
Kirk can you use finish plaster the out of date and if so how long out of date ?
Happy Holidays? Merry Christmas you mean , lad ! 🎉
Hopefully the existing brickwork was cut out where the new cavity walls join the existing house or the gypsum based board adhesive will draw damp through the brickwork.
Insta stick foam is good for metal lintels.
Nice job as always. 👍
Where do you buy your tools from
Great to see a master craftsman trade where the tech industry hasn't got there hands on with apps taking advantage of others labour!
What happened to bathroom part 2? Maybe I missed it but can’t seem to find it on the channel.
Bloody good tradesman 👍👍👍👍
And a merry Xmas to you 👍
Love watching you Kirk just so enjoyable to watch😊
Question now mate if that’s a normal standard cavity lintel, you don’t have to put pink boards on the extension….. if it was an RSJ then normally it’s 2×12.5 normal plasterboard or one pink but that’s not a steel beam but I understand your logic and if the building inspector said so then he’s the boss. Great work as usual really love picking up the little tips.👍🏻
Unless there’s different rules, in building regs up your way…. Which could be possible as they always seem to change their mind like the weather.
building regs are the same throughout england. the functional requirements are law. you're spot on though, different building inspectors have different interpretations of how to meet the requirements. it's a bit of a mess to be honest, i think we'd be better with nationwide prescriptive requirements instead.
How did you get that triangle so perfectly measured?! 🤯
pretty standard fella
Sparks have started using oval hollow conduits now on some of the jobs I go to , must be a cheaper option to the regular capping they used to use . Its proud of existing plaster or too heavy to dab over everytime . That just gets ripped off. Simple as that
I used to labour for my dad and it was always funny when he was plastering ceilings and he’d get a big blob land on his face or in his ear😂
I’m just hoping they fitted cavity trays above all of that otherwise it’s all gonna fail 🤔
Hi Kirk, great work as usual. I wish I lived near you, I'd love to do a bit of work with you for free to learn a few tricks. Don't worry, I'm 60 so not after pinching your work 😂. I've put an RSJ in my house. I used 2 pieces of plasterboard to cover it. I was told that's ok rather than using pink board. I'm trying to understand why you need pink board. Surely everything else would burn before the RSJ distorted?
It's to stop premature collapse. Yes the downstairs may be well ablaze, but there might still be people trapped upstairs awaiting rescue.
@markrainford1219 thanks for your reply. Don't think I'm stupid, but the RSJ is supporting wooden beams that are protected by normal plasterboard. So I'd have thought the wooden beams would burn through and collapse before the RSJ was distorted. Anyway, I'll look it up online. Cheers mate 👍
G'day mate is that "Cornice adhesive" you are using to stick the plasterboard on the walls..?
Another fine job Kirk. One question: what would you normally use to fill in the void in the cavity, when we're talking about conservatory doors etc? Cheers matey and all the best 👍
There's a great big structural crack in the middle of that opening 6:00.
Nice neat job!
Dabbing came from the practice in Tudor times 'Wattle and Dobe' as in 'adobe', a lime rich plaster - the adobe - would be lobbed between the timbers onto lath to build up layers to flush and float.
Kir, sir; @6:02 there is a fault line that looks like movement in the lintel that has snapped the brick above it clean in half. And the block above... loks dodgy (from a structural POV). Looks new.
I think every kid , both young and old, has to explore the dynamism of suction.
Looks like a pencil marking the centre. Wasn't present in the beginning of the video
No need to knock that board off you can overclad that head with fire board I’ve never known a building inspector say you can’t they are only interested in knowing there is pink board on it.
3:10 Should be some bracing or something in that void, no? It's probably fine unless someone bonks it pretty hard I guess.
The cavity looks no wider than 200mm from left to right. Sure when you're framing a stud wall, your studs are placed at 400mm centers behind the plaster board, it makes no difference. If it was a bigger cavity, let's say over 400mm, then you'd want to frame something behind it.
Fire lining, always needs to go round steels, to give you 30 minutes in case of a fire
Correct
@@CEO786is that required with a catnic as it’s not an rsj?
Cheers pal
@@lukemarshall239prob as it’s still load bearing and rather than being in an external wall this has now become an internal wall
@@azza1793catnics spec is 1 hour fire resistance when covered in plaster or normal plasterboard. I’ve not normally had to fire board this type in lintle only RSJ’s.
Have a good Xmas captin
Kirk how do you start out on your own
Oh my, those board cuts get my mixer spinning if you know what I mean
Great job one thing though mate you have a nice level don’t bang it against boards😄
Nice video and understand all but when your on a price in a room that someone else has boarded and the ceiling boards are bouncing because joiner hasn't done his job properly but you need to get through the day and put the cornflakes on the table at home, the proper way of doing things goes out the window 👍
Study sales and marketing, focus on private work, bring in your own work.
Eat steak.
I'm not trying to sound smart. It's the truth.
Become a great salesman and get your own work for top money.
If you need help with this, let me know and I'll help you mate
Why didn't you dab the fire board before you dabed the sides
Surely a structural steel should have a fire rate when covered???
missed the part, not sure if you said, why don't the reveals have to be fireboard, only the head?
You only need to protect the metal lintel from fire, the bricks will be OK mate
@@Onthetrowel easy fella is there any difference in a Marshalltown 14“ x 4“ blue carbon steel trowel to just a carbon steel trowel
Fire-line plasterboard with a mechanical fixing for metal joists?
Yes, my local Building Control insists on mechanical fixings.
Dab is absolutely fine
@@CEO786they ask for mechanical fixings incase of a fire, it’s so that the boards don’t come off and fall on someone
The toilet paper at my school was like greaseproof paper, you must have gone to a posh school, I thought you probably did....
You got toilet paper?
I went to a posh school. The toilet paper was like greaseproof paper too!
@sky37blue it was dreadful stuff. I worked for an old man in Edinburgh in a big house where he rented rooms and he had it in the toilets up till early 2000,'s he must have had a stash from the 60's!
Merry Christmas everyone!
My plasterer mate is always banging on about what a great plasterer he is and he's got the best plasterers forearm, looks more like the best w👌💦💦ers forearm to me 😂😂😂 nice to see not all you plasterers are deluded 😁 good job pal 🙌
Proper way doing it
I would condemn the electrical work. Shocking!
How can you condemn it? For what reasons?
@@entergenericedgynamehere8751 Because the electrical cables are outside the correct zones, so should be covered with conduit. Electrical cable should be parallel or inline to an electrical outlet, this is to ensure any other trade person knows the zones to avoid when drilling etc.
Kirk your some hand like
Toilet roll on the ceiling in school 😂classic, it wasn't just in my crap school then?
Deffo a Chester or e port lad ,,, nice vids 👌👍
E-PORT elite 💪🤣
Clean the beads
The board fitting under the apex so well was pure sex
I think you look like Eddie Hall
Needs fire line boards
Kirk settle an argument please.... love the videos but how tall are you my mate I work with thinks your over 6 foot im not so sure. Cheers ben
I'm about 5ft 9 mate
Hard to tell on a video isn't it 🤣
Wish I was over 6ft
@Onthetrowel I'm only 5ft 7 so taller than me 🤣
Kirk do you have any jobs going?
Hav a good 1 kirk
It’s a Mike Holmes approach, see what’s behind and trust NO ONE. 👍🏻
Great show 😎
2:23 So you lot do not protect the existing floor where you were working on with all that crap on top , scratching the hell out of it and no thick plastic separation wall from that kitchen ? I guess the professional builders over here in Europe do things a lot different than by youre standards . 🙄🙄🤮🤮👎👎👎👎This is a extention build by American standards so when there is a good storm , the entire " extention " is going to flapper in the wind 😂😂🤣🤣👎👎, our extention was complete build with bricks and not that flimsy crap youre using.
Maybe the floor was getting replaced? 🤡🤡🤡🤡 there’s always one “smart” ass