Replacing the valve guide seals on M117 M116 M103 M104 engines SD 480p
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- Опубліковано 25 жов 2024
- This video is designed to help guide you through a valve stem seal replacement. Severe oil consumption of more than 1 - 1.5 qts per 1000 miles lead to fouling of spark plugs and catalytic converter damage not even mentioning it is not nice to the environment.
Here are a few tool recommendations of the tools used in this video that made the valve stem seal replacement much easier or even possible.
Valve spring compressor: tinyurl.com/23...
Combustion chamber pressurization: tinyurl.com/nb...
Pliers: tinyurl.com/4w...
Spark plugs: Champion Spark Plug
Part Number: 6265-09023475
Brand: Champion
Notes: Copper Plus -- Plug Type N11YC; Non-Resistor Type; Gap 0.032in; OE Type
tinyurl.com/dm...
So happy you made a video on this!!!! My car runs great but it smokes bad!!!! Also tried to tie into it my self but just by the looks of it confused me but this video helped me a lot !!!!! I recommend this video!
Thank you and I am glad this helped you.
Thanks a lot for your video. It was just the thing I needed to get me started and I have now just finished the job on my M116. Two things learned though:
1: The valve will only drop 1/2 way down from fully closed when piston is at TDC. This will actually make it possible to do the job without any such compressed air adapter. However the rocker arm and thrust piece must be removed first and this cannot be removed while piston is at TDC. So this approach is a little more fiddlier
2: If the valve cone half will not separate from valve stem, try to place a large flat screw driver on the valve spring retainer (NOT the thrust piece!!) and give it a gentle tap with a hammer. This will usually be enough to loosen them so they will separate when you compress the spring.
1) While you are correct in saying that the valves cannot completely disappear on you during the procedure, it does make re-inserting the keepers very difficult and you may damage your new stem seals as you need to push the spring retainer very far down.
I am not sure what happened to you while trying to remove the rocker arm, but they do come out at TDC pulling them out toward the center of the engine (intake side).
2) Yup, that does work indeed. Another quick push down of the spring retainer with the valve bottoming out on the piston at TDC will do the same.
Thank you for your comments!
I removed the rocker arm exhaust side due to the position of my valve compressor tool. However i did not actually try to remove them towards center, probably should have tried that though
@@JFinnerud Live and learn...
Sir you have many useful videos and you seem like a great dude! Just thanking you for your effort
Thank you! Glad this is of help to you. All the best.
These are the kind of videos, that keep me from ever owning a V8 MB. Great video Ralf.
Thanks. Well, those seals will go bad on just about any old engine, but it is a bit of a chore to do for certain.
Many other cars are worse. These are rather easy in comparison.
😂 incidentally these are exactly why I'm so happy to own an M117... Way easier by comparison to many other engines of a similar caliber.
These engines were designed to last, and to be easy to work on.
Edit: keywords "of a similar caliber". There certainly are easier engines, but.. dang... This thing keeps on impressing me.
I did 4 seals with that compressor tool in the video but they say that it does increase the risk of unseating the guides. So i've ordered the expensive merc one to finish the job
That is a safe and sound tactic. Good luck and thanks for the hint.
Great Video Ralf! Thanks for explaining this! With greetings from Kansas Peter
Greetings right back to you!
High, I love your video's. In my w126 M117 engine I can not get the seals out. They are very tide. Any tips? I used a screw driver but no movement at all
If they do not come out using a screwdriver then try using these type of pliers or something like it: www.amazon.com/QWOKR-Spark-Removal-Plier-Pliers/dp/B082NQ56MH/ref=asc_df_B082NQ56MH/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=416671577205&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6532203057943931033&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007343&hvtargid=pla-888314160958&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=96944448914&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=416671577205&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6532203057943931033&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007343&hvtargid=pla-888314160958
Hello Ralph, I am planning to change my valve seals on my 560 sec. Question for you. How much psi did you set to keep the valve closed? Thanks for the support!
I set mine around 80psi. The other thing I did was making sure that the corresponding piston was at TDC position. That has saved my bum a few times when I put the little retainer wedges back in. Also, make sure you have a good size compressor as this method does use quite a bit of air. Good luck.
@Stray Benzes thank you Ralph for the support!!
@@singhpally You are welcome.
I cannot get the exhaust valves on cylinder 1&2 to release from the valve spring to remove the seals, what is the trick?
I am not sure if I understand your problem correctly. Are you struggling to get the two little keeper wedges out of the spring retainer disk? If so, turn the crankshaft so that that cylinder's piston is in top dead center position. When you push down on the valve retianer disc you will eventually hit the piston with the valve and the little retainers come out. Just make sure that the valve comes back up and that there is air pressure on that cylnder to keep the valves closed as you replace the stem seals. Hoping that this will help you.
@@straybenzes How are you pushing down on the thrust piece / valve springs to get the retainers? I didn't see this tool mentioned and you skipped to holding the retainer. Is it the same claw looking tool you used to get the rocker arms out?
@@V8Hunter7 Yup that is the same tool to use. Good luck!
What brand of val stem seals do you use and is there a part number
Elring Klinger and here is one source: www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/1170500367.htm?pn=117-050-03-67-M30&SVSVSI=3428&DID=19737 Good luck!
Was wondering how long it takes to do this? Thank you
Count on a looong Saturday pretty much all day.
Thank you so so much.
Glad it helped.
Everything I hear from other youtubers is champion plugs are crap. Did you try FCPEuro?
Most of the videos I've seen did use compressed air to hold the valves up but one guy said he just stuffed a length of rope in. Wouldn't take much since the piston is up top.
I don't think I will ever try this at my age. Lol
Oh, by the way. What is that 7 for on your neck?
Thanks Ralph and take care.
There are a lot of opinions out there about the dreaded topic of spark plugs, but very little information about how people arrived at their conclusions. I am not expecting much from a 1.70 USD plug.
The rope-in-cylinder trick is more something for lawnmower engines. Fiddling with that stuff in that tight a space is nothing for my sausage fingers.
@@straybenzes Rope trick will not work on the M116/117 at least (I've tried) the shape of the combustion chamber is such that the piston will block the rope before the rope blocks/supports the valve. As for spark plugs, any type of non resistor copper core plugs within specs have worked for me.
@@JFinnerud Yeah, I am not in favor of trying to shove some rope into such an engine. That may work just fine on a lawn mower engine but this has no place on such an engine like this.
Non resistor plugs are difficult to find anymore. Not impossible, but difficult.
The dealer has non resistors spark plugs. They are 4$ each.
Good to know. My nearest dealer is too far away to make it worth going there.
Thank you cobba
Glad you liked it. Had to look up "cobba" - have not been called that before ;)
@@straybenzes Thanks for not telling us Ralph! I had to stop and look it up. Lol
Australian for mate.
@@wernerdanler2742 :)