Jotul F600 Model 12 Catalytic Wood Stove
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- Опубліковано 28 сер 2024
- Just finished my install. I know there is very little about these stoves on you tube, so I thought I would post a bit of information about the Jotul model 12 stove. You can fast forward to 2:45 if you don't want to hear how I acquired it.
i just installed mine, bought on an auction! getting ready to fire it
We have the newer F600 version and it is a great stove. always wondered about the older version
Yes, the new performs equally but with less maintenance. The the thing I like about the old model is the top loader vrs side loader. Either way they are wonderful stoves!
Thanks for putting this up! Where did you get the sheilded 1/4" rope gasket? Redoing my seals and the top lid is being difficult.
Sorry for delay. It is the same rope used on the vermont casting top loaders. I got it from my local stove store who carries V.C. You can buy it by the foot.
thanks mate for the video, my english is not good enought when i listen it, do you know what is the capacity of the chamber in kgs? i can't find that info, and whats the autonomy? thank you so much
You have been a lifesaver!
I have just bought a house with one of these installed already and out of fear of burning down the house we hardly use it!
1. What is a good operating temp for the stove itself and also the flute about 12 inches high?
2. After seeing you close your damper during operation I’ve just closed mine. I hear the odd clacking noise coming from the chimney especially towards the roof (as my room is above the floor the stove is on) is that normal? Maybe it’s bad because I have been burning it with the flute completely open for a bit?
3. All mine has on the back is a small metal plate with “how to not burn your house down” where do you open and check the converter and how can you tell if it’s still in good condition?
4. Wood a chimney sweeping log do the trick or cleaning or should I have it professionally cleaned? We’re not sure of last service as we inherited it with the house.
5. We want to heat the floor above it and there is a small stairway leading to the top floor (it’s a multilevel) we have two ceiling fans installed above the stove about 10 feet high vaulted ceiling. 10’ to the right and 10’ back of the stove are the stairs to the master/top floor. How can we get heat up here?! It gets cold here in the mountains and my wife just turns on the heater when we have this beautiful machine!
Glad you found it useful. :)
1. Operating temp should be a around 300 to 500 degrees before you close the catalytic damper. It should hold steady around that temp afterwards with the air supply little less than half closed. Dry wood is key. If the catalyst is old and worn, it may require a higher temp to light off. If you close it before reaching at least 300 degrees the catalyst may not ignite and do what it is supposed to do. Not sure what you mean by 12" high? Is that where you have the magnetic thermometer? I have my thermometer on the top back of the stove. If you ff to 5:40 you can see where I have mine. In the video, the stove is running around 400 degrees with the Catalyst closed down.
2. Crackling throughout the chimney is normal, especially if it has not been run in a while. Are you running double wall interior pipe ad stainless class A? The crackling is the metal expanding under heat and some of the creosote is probably also burning off. You can avoid creosote by burning seasoned wood and at the proper temp. 300 to 500 on the therm.
3. Sounds like you do not have a heat shield on yours. All depends on the clearance. Regardless of clearance, I like to have it on mine. Also creates convection around the stove. As long as the clearances are good no worries about not having it on there.
4.Do not use a creosote log in this stove. It will kill the Catalyst. If you do not know the history of the chimney, you could hire a chimney sweep to clean it. Who ever you use, make sure they come recommended and check BBB. There are unfortunately shady ones out there who like to use the "burn your house down" scare to get you to repair something that is fine. I would imagine it was inspected when you brought the house..... so if there was an issue..... If there is creosote, it builds at bends in stove pipe and towards the the top of the stove pipe.
5. This stove will heat 3000 square feet. It heats my whole upstairs with no problem, heat rises without the need of fans. The fans will more than likely be used by you to push the heat to the rest of the lower portion of the house.
You may want to inspect the catalyst. But be very very careful the refractory material that sourounds it is wicked brittle and very expensive to replace.
Page 16 - www.jotul.com/sites/usa/files/2019-11/Jotul_firelght_cat.pdf
If you need a catalyst- this is the one I recommend www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018ACO64/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@PackardDog thanks brother! I walked with the inspector and he never inspected the stove.
Also by 12 inches high I meant I’ve read a lot of people who put their thermometer 12 inches above the stove top on the flute. I use a Milwaukee laser thermometer and it’s dead in accurate and I can measure the temp anyway in the system.
As far as the chimney build out I’m not even close to positive on that. The part sticking out of my house looks shiny and new but the visible chimney inside is an eye sore (it has about 4 or 5 maybe 10 degree bends in it. It also feels single wall to the tap and touch but is there any way to tell for certain?
Lastly the clearance from walls doesn’t concern me because it’s free standing in the middle of the living room and looks as if they designed the house around it because I have about 20 inches all around.
So far when I have gotten heat up the stairs into our room it’s always been when I ran it with the flute open. Since I commented I had the flute closed and it (surprisingly) seemed to not throw as much heat.
I usually keep the knob in front fully open to start and then 1/4 open once steady. I also keep the two ceiling fans above the stove low and it seems to circulate the air nicely. One problem is the stove is on the middle floor and the stairway downstairs probably gets pretty warm too.
Lastly the seals on our windows up here are nothing short of nonexistent, so we do get the occasional draft.
I will have the whole system inspected and any parts like the converter replaced. Then I’ll feel comfortable cranking it up to 500.
My wife and I are smiling and so thankful for your help as we have been sleeping with one eye open. Thank you so much you’ve made a subscriber out of me!!
@@DefenseWinsChips You are very welcome. I checked out your site and subscribed as well. Big coffee drinker here. Anyway, it sounds like you don't need double wall if your stove is located in the middle of the room like that. So more than likely the installer would not have used double wall with the clearances you have. Double wall interior stove pipe is two to three times the cost of single wall. Double wall stove pipe is typically used to meet clearance minimums. Double wall also takes away some of the heating property of the stove pipe. The single wall stove pipe that you mention has 4 bends in in it will actually radiate heat into the room better than double wall and probably suites your need and stove location. If the chimney that is sticking out the roof is shinny, more than likely it is stainless, which is good. Good luck with the stove. It is a very high quality stove that has a bit of learning curve to it, but once you get it down, you'll love the stove.
Thanks so much for the video. I have the newer version. My right glass panel broke. Anybody know where I can get a replacement?
Thanks.
We have just purchased a home with this same exact stove already installed. Quick question, do you know what size area, sq footage wise, is this stove recommended for? It is currently installed in the finished basement, which is about 600 sq. ft. and the main living floor at 1000 sq. ft.
Perfect placement!! That will heat your whole house perfectly. The stove will heat 2500 sq ft. I used to have to open windows in my last house that was 1000 sq ft. The stove is a cooker for sure!! Enjoy.
It's about 3 cubic feet...one of the larger stoves out there.
larger
Great vid. I just acquired one of these with a house I purchased and need to move it from lower floor to the main floor. It's incredibly heavy obviously. Should I try to break it down into it's main component parts to move it? How complicated is that to do?
I would not disassemble unless you are comfortable resealing all joints and seams. I used a hand truck with blocks and ratchet straps and 3 people with strong backs. Watch the stove legs. They can snap easily.
We have a Firelight 12 and love it. Yesterday, however, I managed to crack one of the glass panels while cleaning it. Would you happen to know if there's an easy way to remove the right-hand door? There appear to be hinge pins on the top and bottom. Thank you!
I don't know about removing the door, but the screws holding the hold-down retainers for the glass around its perimeter should unscrew. If not, apply some penetrating oil. If not again, use some heat - get the head red hot then let it cool and try to remove it then.
Great video, thanks for the walk through. I just installed my Firelight 12..corner installation just like yours. Do you know if the heat shield for the F600 is the same as the Firelight 12? I can only find it online for the F600. These 2 stoves look identical from the outside. Their manuals show identical outside dimensions, so I would think the heat shield would be interchangeable between models. Looking for someone who can confirm this before I purchase.
Also, curious what the overall length of your chimney is? I will have just over 14' from top of flu to top of chimney. I'm starting to think I should have ordered another 4 feet of chimney pipe. Any thoughts or advice on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Glad you found it helpful. It's a great stove. You will enjoy it!!
I have about 18 ft of combined interior double wall to thimble and double wall SS the rest of the way. Drafts perfectly. Just remember to follow the 3/2/10 rule for roof clearances.
Can't say for sure about using a CB heatshield on a Cat stove, but it looks like it should work.....
Where did you order the steel version from?
Great video, it’s definitely hard finding this type. I purchased mine a year ago, used at a stove shop and paid $1,700. You really did get a smoking deal! The bypass damper does not close once temp is hot. It only works when there is no fire in the stove or has cooled down. Any idea what’s going on with the damper? I’ve been burning with the damper open since I purchased it. I questioned where I bought the stove and they told me the damper is supposed to stay open when burning. Any ideas what’s going on with my damper?
The stove shop you purchased it from is not correct. You have to close the bypass to engage the catalytic. If you do not, you will likely overfire the box and warp the stove, which it sounds like probably already occured. I close the bypass at 450 degrees and close the air to about half. Sounds like the stove shop doesn't care about your safety... I would inquire why they would misinform you and ask for them the fix the stove damage that they caused by telling you not to close the bypass. That is very irresponsible.
I just purchased a home with an f600. It doesn't appear to be a catalytic version. Where did you source your rope gasket. I would like to go through my entire stove before we set it up for use. I believe it could also use replacement glass.
Any stove store should have rope gasket but I would see if there's a vermont castings dealer near you and get the shielded rope gasket that they use on their top loaders. You can use that on the doors.
Hi Dave, we also have a firelight 12, was wondering if you have any tips for removing top.
I need to replace the combustion chamber.
Any tips, thanks
Sorry for delay. There are several bolts inside under the top, remove those, the top loader linkage and the whole top lifts off. All the heat shield panels lift out as well. Unbolt the back flame plate, remove refractory material. Remove combusted. Be careful with the refractory material. It is very brittle. If any of the pieces need to be replaced. You can buy sheets of it and make the parts you need. Saves a lot of money that way. Now you should be able unbolt the back portion of the stove and very carefully lift off. Good luck with it.
What is the difference between the f12 and the f600? Which works best
I believe the f600 is clean burn technology. Heat tubes at the top which eliminate the top load feature and is a side load. My opinion is catalytic burns better but requires cat replacement every 3 or 4 years. I also love the top load feature. Could not give it up
300 bucks you flat out stole it. I paid 3200.00 for my non- cat 600 about 4 years ago.
Right place at right time! Yes, 300 is pretty close to stealing. When I got there to pick it up, the seller said others were offering him double but that he just wanted it out of the garage! 😁
Lol "permits"