Some "odds and ends" shots taken while forming and pouring a residential raised floor foundation, as opposed to a slab on grade. Dave and his sons build residential in California....
Hey Dave. Just wanted to say thanks for your stem wall instructional videos. I just poured the foundation for our cabin using your methods. Worked perfect! The concrete company commented over and over again about how well the forms were built, calling it "old school" and the way they used to be built.He said, "you just don't see this type of craftsmanship and attention to detail anymore". When he found out that it was the first time that we had built forms, he asked how I learned to build them this way...I told him that I learned by watching your videos. He was shocked! Again, thanks.
Love to hear it! I make these videos on the fly during construction. Maybe I'll be able to slow down and get some more details/better videos. Congrats on the good pour!! Dave
Love watching things being built. There is a lot to be said for those who build things that last and bring a lot of joy and benefit to their users. As a lawyer I do as much tearing down as I do building so I love getting into the garage and building or repairing things. Its great therapy.
Thanks you so much! I've done lots of work above the concrete, but in the last 12 months I'm getting lots of foundation jobs that I barely know how to do... It's really wonderful to be able to watch skilled tradesman practice their craft... you learn a lot just from watching tools and bodies move, and the explanations and details are highly appreciated!
I've built over a hundred homes from the ground up, plus numerous foundations, etc..and STILL learn tons every time I do a new job!! If we aren't learning every day, something isn't right....
Glass Menagerie --- I'm old and retired but I built a lot of this type of construction. There is always something to learn on each house/project.....and we all learn by doing (aka experience). Concrete form work was a lot of fun for me as you never knew what the next forming job would be like and I enjoyed the variety. Good luck in your career!
I've been doing concrete work for 43 years and I always appreciate seeing really good work, and I must say your formwork was done in a very efficient and easy way. I like the 12x12 blocks to hold the CBs in place. Gotta try that next time. Very well done sir
Glad you got something out of it! Raised stem walls are less common now, but I appreciate the access to plumbing, etc, and the feel and warmth of a raised wood floor. With increased costs of concrete slab foundations due to design/engineering, etc. the stem wall foundation is a competitively priced construction method, especially when the forms can be reused for another foundation or incorporated into the structure.- Dave
HEAR YE HEAR YE!!! IMMEDIATELY SUB!!! This crew shares some awesome tips and tricks in this video. I immediately subbed after watching this (the first) video and can’t wait to see what else I can learn here.
Thank you for posting. I'm having a guest house built and foundation is built the same way. Originally went with slab on grade but architect recommended a raised Foundation to make plumbing and eletrical repairs easier. It cost more but I think in the long run is better.
Slab-on-grade used to be the "poor man's" foundation, but with the engineering standards, etc., the cost is not very different. A lot of slabs are now "post tension". Ask anyone who's had to jack hammer into a slab to repair plumbing if they would prefer it to a raised foundation. There's also a different feel and warmth to a raised wood floor......
I know this posting is older but I was wondering what all is coming up through the stem wall. Not including the sleeve for plumbing, I see ufer ground, and electrical. What are the other two. Com and water? What’s the black thing all the way to the right? This is the best video on stem wall foundations, thanks for sharing your forming secrets.
You're correct on the need for the crawl space. The 18' high stem wall creates the space without having to excavate a below grade area. I prefer this over the excavated method, to have the home sitting above adjoining grade to allow for sloped finish grade and to eliminate potential water/moisture infiltration into a lowered grade area.- Dave
Very nice. For wet southern Louisiana I had a test compaction/consistency test performed saying I need to be 30-36 inches below grade to have 3000 psi soil though my engineer said I can go as low at 1500psi.. Base Flood Elevation is 36ft which happens to be 1.5 ft above grade. I am building at 37.5ft b/c BFE is the MIN allowed by building code and I want to higher. That puts the top of stem wall at 3 ft above grade which means my wall is 6ft total top to bottom and 16 inches wide. Lots of concrete. Although I like the idea of 2x12s running around the perimeter inside and out, that is a lot of boards and could leave a lot of lines to be finished the next day once the form boards are removed. Still not sure on my route to take.
Let me understand this- Your stem wall will be 16" thick and 6' high off the footing??? That would hold up a bank. I've done 6' high stem walls, but 8" wide is rated for 2 stories. Anyway, unless you can reuse the form lumber in the frame, I would use concrete block for the stemwall, but again, if it really is 16" thick, a plywood formed wall using whalers is another method used.
Hello David. Yes you are correct. From the bottom of the footing approx 36" inches down from grade extending out of the ground 36" above grade to reach 1.5 feet higher than BFE of 36 feet above sea level for my area. The footing/stem wall plans were drawn originally 12 inches wide by the engineer who is confident about it being enough support but both concrete 'guides' that I interviewed stated how difficult it would be to run 14 #5 rebar in such a tight area. After some discussion with them and the engineer I voted to make the width 4 inches wider to 16 inches. The cost of the concrete is not that much more for the speed to do what needs to get done. A rough calc has it about $5k more. One reason why so massive is the peak of the roof is 36 feet high, building is all steel AND the entire second story is (lightweight) concrete flooring 3-4 inches thick. So yes, in a way will hold up a bank but I stayed during Katrina and I plan to stay again in a much stronger domicile. For kicks I will be happy to send you the drawings. It borders commercial grade. In the meantime I will look up 'plywood formed wall using whalers'. Thank you for the lead.
SDS screrws?? Thats expense when you use hundreds/thousands in a foundation. The drywall screws won't (usually) split the form stakes... But I love SDS screws for structural applications!
Hey Dave, not sure if you miss my question below, but I'm just wondering if you could let me know full size of the building (width and length) , then you have the load bearing wall line up at interior garage foundation is that located half way of the width of the building.
Nice video- this is exactly how I was planning on pouring my footers and foundation wall. Is the footer formed by the trench, poured to the bottom of the stem wall? How soon do you pour the stem wall over the footing? Can you use the lumber in the construction or is too messy with concrete?
The footing is formed by the trench itself- no form boards. I use an 18" bucket for a 15" footing (2 story) or 12" bucket for a single story, unless plans dictate other wise. The footing is pumped up to the bottom of the stem wall, so as to seal it for the wetter mix going into the stem wall. Usually by the time the footing is poured, the stem can be started on the first poured areas where the footing was started. I try to pour the footing on the stiff side so as to prevent blow-outs when using the wetter mud in the stem. You can generally start pumping the stems 20-30 minutes after the footings have been poured. You don't want to wait very long as having formed stakes anchored in a solid footing is no fun! After everything is poured and striked off, I go around with a hose and spray off everything I can so i have relatively clean lumber to put back into the subfloor in a couple of days. (i have a video showing the sub-floor being installed just a couple of days after the pour with the forming material.) ua-cam.com/video/4xMSep0uiRs/v-deo.html Designing most of the homes we build, I plan on subfloor joisting that is compatable with the form material. It never has to leave the job and is a very cost efficient design/build technique- Dave
Hi Dave, What is the full size of the building, then you have the load bearing wall line up at interior garage foundation is that located half way of the width of the building.
Hello Dave Osland. I would like to let you know that your excellent video inspired me to do my very own stem wall for my new garage and breezeway! I am a Window and Siding installer by trade but consider myself an all around carpenter who is not afraid to try and learn new things...I mean who doesn’t like to save money on labor 😃. I would love the chance to pick your brain on my stem wall construction as well...I’m about 35% completed by now...
Dave Osland when putting the form ties on do you screw them on or nail those? Or just rely on the wedges to hold them in place? I figured nails or screws would possibly get in the way when stacking the 2x
So your footings are 42" in the earth??? Not knowing what codes you use, I would have to assume your plans call it out. In general, a minimum of two horizontal rebar 3" off the bottom of the footing is standard, with a single horizontal run every 18" as you go up in a stem wall. Out yonder here in Calif., we are usually adding vertical bar also, say, every 18" or so, extending from the top runs down to and hooking under the bottom runs. The engineering requirements generally are more than the minimum code requires. If I understand, you have a 42" deep footing, I would probably consider pouring only the required footing depth, say, 15"?, and then use concrete block, like a opened ended speed block, to come up to stem wall height. Someone who builds out there may have some more insight than I do to your particular situation- Dave
Use the wedges supplied by the form tie maker, that's all you need. Be sure and use an 1/8" spacer between form board runs, to allow the insert of the tie. If not, you'll have to drop a saw blade in a lot of spots for the tie.
Great video. Quick question. Going to DIY a 30x40 3 car detached garage with garage doors on east and west sides enabling me to drive through. Should I stem wall the slab or just monolithic style. Pretty high dry area and hard. I’d rather mono it just because it’s easier but wanted your opinion. Best regards, Jon
Good question. Unless it's a design issue, I would try a monolith slab pour. if your on a sloped area, a slab-on-grade would be more difficult.... Dave
Hi just check out this video and I want to find out if there was a continuation video where it shows how you pour the slab out. We are constructing a house and they put the blocks in before pouring the foundation. I wanted to know if this is a commonly used method and if this will make my house stronger. Thanks
Thanks Dave, I mostly had jobs after pouring the concrete but lately I’ve been doing jobs where I have to pour the foundation. This was a great example for first timers like me. I showed my boss and he said that’s a old school way to do it and he found it very cool. I juts have one question that maybe you could answer it’s #3: What are your thoughts on the organized system used to do the forming and its finished look?
I'm not sure what you mean by "organized system".. The exposed concrete after the house is done can be left as is, painted to the ground or even veneered with stucco stone, brick, etc... Dave
The abs for plumbing is installed after the subfloor has been framed. See my subfloor framing vid here- ua-cam.com/video/4xMSep0uiRs/v-deo.html I always put a section of 4" ABS in the stem wall to pass the waste line thru and out of the house... Dave
Thanks for the video, a great help for me in my planning to build a 28x40 garage that regional building requires to have a stem wall foundation here in Col-Spgs. What slump do you request for the pumped concrete? How long before you start putting sill plates down and framing with a winter time pour?
Hi Jeff- A stiffer mix is used to fill the footings up to the bottom of the stem forms- say a 4" slump? But a 3/8" pea gravel mix will settle different than a 1/2"or 3/4"- Anyway, a stiff but pumpable mix is used first, then wet it up some so the mud leaves little or no voids in the visible stem wall sticking up out of the ground. Running a vibrator or tapping the forms with a hammer is good practice. Nothing like a smooth clean surface when you strip those forms!! If a wetter mix is used first, you stand the chance of the mud blowing out of the bottom of the stem portion. I'll often put plates down the next day, but you might want to wait a day or two in cold weather, as concrete cures very slowly at low temps.... Dave
Hi Dave, thank you for your amazing video. I also start constructing my new project and it will be my first project :). It is 2 story unit. As you mentioned below, footing width is 15'' and stem wall width is 8''. The depth for the exterior walls are min 24'' deep and footing depth is 12''. I have excavated the soil exactly 15'' width. But i am wondering how to nail stakes to the wood which is blow the ground level? Can you give me any advice?
Hi Adam- Tough question! Generally, the forms are not hung below grade, because of access to fastening. The best i could think of is to use a 2x12 to extend down below grade, but have the top edge close enough to the trench lip to get a screw into the top edge to hold it. on other foundations where I've had to go below grade, I've used a concrete block stem wall rather than wood forms..
Hey Dave, Great video. I was hoping you could answer a couple questions for me. I was wondering how you secure your vertical rebar? And when dealing with a sloped lot, how would you step up when doing a single pour? Thank you
Vertical rebar is tied with pre-made 6" wire ties (they come in rolls of 500). The vertical ties have a short bend on the bottoms, which are tied to the bottom member as well as being tied to the horizontal runs. See the set up in this video- ua-cam.com/video/9gC9BwwVjo4/v-deo.html On a sloped lot, the footings are cut in steps as well as the forms stepped up the lot. Start the pour at the lowest point and pour the footings, to be followed by topping off the stem walls after all the footings are poured. There's usually enough time to prevent the stem wall mud from blowing out the footings when poured 1/2 an hour to 45 minutes later after the footings are poured ... Dave
Psst: A 2x10 is 9 1/4. Used to be anyway. Everything above 2x6 drops from a half to a quarter (unless that has changed or I learned wrong way back). Nice video.
I just went next-door where they finished pouring a slab last week. Mostly only 2x6 material there sitting around. But one 2x8 treated. It measured out a wee bit less than 7 1/4. There was an old carpenter unloading stuff at the time here on Sunday morning. He looked toward me with that, 'What do you want on my lot' expression. So I explained the story. Right then he assured me that they are all 1/2, this coming 60 seconds after my measuring his own board and finding different. Then I looked online at maybe 3 sites to verify. See link below for one of them. Seems like I win the bar discussion thus far. Old carpenters who are far better at their trade than my couple years as a trainee framer and some time as a finish carpenter are apparently unaware of this weird matter done in the lumber industry for whatever reason. You owe me a beer (maybe). www.thesprucecrafts.com/understanding-wood-sizes-in-softwood-lumber-3536905
Hey Dave awesome foundation, they make a coupler for abs or plastic in 6 inch or 8 for sewer to glue into pretty slick makes for a nice tight pass through with no foam. Hope you can use them you seem like the type that would appreciate them.
Hi Dave. I’ve watched a lot of videos about forming in prep for me to repair my garage. I’m planning to add a stem wall above an existing foundation.The previous owner had raised the landscaping about 8” above the top of the slab, so the bottom of the 2x4 walls (true 2x4’s and 1x6 exterior cladding inside Vinyl siding) My plan was to cut a groove into the foundation,drill holes for the anchor bolts, then add a 2’ high stem wall on top at 6” thickness Any advice is appreciated.Thanks
Sorry for the delayed response! Cutting a groove sounds ugly. You might consider drilling into, cleaning and epoxying vertical rebar dowels at say16"o.c. and forming. The dowels will anchor the stem to the existing concrete. They make nifty double barrel epoxy guns and tubes!
Thanks for the talent and skill you shared with us, totally agree with the scripture. I have a question, I’m building a post frame house 32’x32’ , it’s on a slope, slopes down from almost 6” at high point down to about 30” on the other end low point. So I’m not drilling posts here, can I build a foundation wall 16” wide and level out from the low side up to the high point , then anchor my posts 8’ apart just as if I drilled a post for each post? Thanks for the impute, blessings. Larry
Hi Larry- I'm trying to visualize exactly what you are asking here... A foundation as in the video, can be done, everything level, with no step up or downs. Obviously, the stem wall will be higher as the site elevation drops. A complete perimeter foundation, 16" wide, with a concrete slab floor spanning the interior section? If I'm understanding, I would pour an 8 " wide stem wall as in the video, and form 16"x16" wide pilasters where each post will sit. You'll want a significant drift pin or other way to anchor the posts in place. Dave
what do you do about ventilation i didnt see any vent holes formed in your wall our code requires us to have vents with in 3' of each corner? i am building my own house and wondering if i should do this or lay block i enjoy carpentry work more than block so im leaning to stem walls all the way around what do you think?
The foundation vents are put in the wooden subfloor framing- easy-peasy. Should you need to put the vents in the concrete itself, I like to uses a CMU (concrete block), lay it on it's side, leaving it open from inside to outside and then install durable screening to prevent critter infiltration!! See my video on subfloors... Dave
maybe you could show an overview with the actual plan of the project so that people see how the actual project looks like before zooming on different areas and describe details. Thanks
Sir, i see this is five years ago, i have a question . I have to do a similar 2 foot high stem wall for an addition. This is the only stem wall footer combo ive seen .so, you guys formed slightly below grade and let the bottom partially fill trench. You poured bottom to base of forms first . Did you have a cold joint or did you come behind and make it into one?????
Sorry for the late reply- As soon as the footing is poured to the bottom of the formed stem wall, you can generally go back to the starting point of the pour and top off the stem, as the concrete has had several minutes to stiffen up enough to support the wet mud in the stem forms. Dave
Curious, is it a big deal if the wall shifts a little while pouring? I mean maintaining level height and corners I’m sure are most important but what if one of the sides bows a little? Building a footing for my shop in the woods now and trying to figure this out. Thanks sir
Nice video. I'm assuming being in Calli your local codes only require 12" or 18" footing? Must be Nice! Here in Jersey everything is 32" to 36" minimum. Anyway, Nice form work!
Yep, 12x12" for a single story,15x15" 2 story and 18x18" 3 story footings, unless soils reports dictate otherwise. 6", 8" stem wall thickness for 1 and 2 story, generally. With so much engineering nowadays, we get all manner of foundations. Pre-stressed slabs seem to be gaining popularity as a way to avoid "engineering" of the soils- excavation/recompaction in lifts, importing soils, etc... Unless your up in the high elevations, heaving soils due to "frost line" isn't a worry, hence shallower footings. Basements? Almost unheard of round' here!! Dave
Oops! Brain Fart!! 2 story is 15" wide x 18 deep. 3 story is 23" min. width. Although footing depths will vary, it is curious that in many cases only a 6" concrete footing thickness may be required at the bottom of those depths (as opposed to filling the whole footing with concrete)! Where it gets crazy is the amount of steel that can be required. The latest plans I've worked on include 5"x5" plate "washers"on the mud sill!!! Dave
Are kickers required to be on both sides of the board? My concrete contractor wants to charge extra because my plumbing contractor disturbed the boards when trenching for plumbing but he only had kickers on one side to begin with.
Yea, someone is making some $$$. I would think about using concrete block now ( i posted a video on the plan details for that). As for the form boards, I always try to design the house so as to use the form boards in the floor framing. You're going to have to spend the bucks on them any way or pour a concrete floor/slab foundation. Concrete ain't cheap anymore either-Dave
Why do you poured the first nine yards of concrete all the way around the bottom of the form first instead of filling the form to the top as they went along?
Good question! The footing mud needs to stiffen up for a while to prevent the pressure from the stem wall mud blowing the footing out and allowing the stem mud to billow down into the footing... I'll bring the mud up to the bottom of the stem wall with the 1st truck (generally 9 yards). By the time the 2nd truck arrives and we start pumping, the concrete where we 1st started has set up enough to allow the 2nd lift to top off the stem wall without blowing out... Dave
@@lumberjackdreamer6267 We use different methods to "settle" the concrete.- Can be as simple as tapping the forms with a hammer, often using a 1x2 stake to rod the mud, or in places that are tight or suspect, quickly plunging a vibrator into the mud. Notice the word quickly- a few seconds too long can send the concrete billowing out of the bottom of the forms....
@@daveosland3199 Thanks. I have been using a vibrator on sono tube piers (dug with auger, 48” deep by 10” wide). I kept with vibrator for a long time, maybe too long? But my mud was also maybe too thick, didn’t flow well. It’s my first time doing concrete.
"Concrete waits for no man" The vertical stakes would be locked in place if the pour was dragged out, with this method. Other forming methods might allow for staged pours- Concrete block, ply forms with snap ties, etc...
@@daveosland3199 Actually this video is super misleading stem wall and monolithic are TWO ENTIRELY DIFFERENT types of slabs...... Stem wall foundations are very much done in TWO pours.
Good question! i like raised wood floors (stem wall foundation)- Easy access to underfloor plumbing/mechanical for servicing/remodeling, can insulate (warm floors), can be less moisture infiltration as can happen thru concrete slabs. Traditionally, slab construction has been cheaper than stem walls, but the additional engineering in modern slabs seems to make it a wash in many circumstances...
A 26" gore?? I've laid out smaller ones on paper for templates, but you probably can lay it out on a 4x sheet of metal. I like a dry erase pen for easy cleaning up of mistakes when laying out... Let us know what worked for you- Dave
So you rely on the form ties to hold the shape of the stem wall ... the stakes are only to locate the form. Will the voids left by the stakes fill themselves or do you have to fill them individually?
Yep, the form ties and lumber hold the concrete in place. We don't fill the 1x2 voids left by the stakes, the backfill grading against the stem wall takes care of that.
Not very long, usually just after we top and screed the stem. A couple of hours, tops.You can't wait too long or you'll have to break off the stakes rather than pull them.....
At first I thought what the heck why use a screw gun but the way you guys did it actually was nice to learn :) Out of curiosity how do you guys charge someone to do a job like this? Is it done by the sqft of the foot print of the structure or outer surface area of the walls?
@@daveosland3199 Thanks for the great video Mr Osland. I'm curious though, and maybe I missed the reason why,.but you didn't need to form up a footing. You just let it flow out the bottom when you pour the stem wall? (I ask because I'd rather do that than form a footing for my 24'x24' cabin tin the PNW.)
@@regw8322 Yep- It just flows into the footing, and then up into the formed stem wall. The trench (18x18") forms the footing- no need for any forming. Generally hang the stem wall boards about even or a couple of inches below/into the footing trench.
Code section 404 shows up to 9' tall with a 12" thickness, but every application can be different and often engineering is required on walls much less than that depending on each circumstance. For the past several years nearly any project I've done (in bureaucratic California) required engineering.
@@daveosland3199 yes I'm in northern California someone told me 6 feet without engineering then just build a 4 foot pony wall on top of that. This is for a daylight basement foundation. Thanks for getting back
we do vibrate, hammer tap the forms and vertically rod the mud. Only so much is shown on the video, as I'm busy on the pour and not trying to make a "groomed" video...Dave
You're right! The soil there was extremely well drained sandy loam, and no need for any drainage. Finish grade is sloped away from foundation to eliminate any pooling adjacent to the house-
A finish grade is done after the foundation is complete, generally a 2-5% grade away from the foundation, usually for at least 5'. Since I generally don't excavate on the interior area, and we aren't in clay, no drainage is needed below the foundation or structure.- Dave
I'm just learning about this. I was wondering, are the wood footers saved for future jobs? Or does a lot of it get thrown out do to holes, weathering etc?
Good question! We'll use as much as possible in the subfloor framing, joisting, rafters ,blocking etc... I've a subfloor framing video showing the reuse of the form boards.. Dave ua-cam.com/video/4xMSep0uiRs/v-deo.html
@@patriccrigler7981 1500 sq ft home x15$/ft- But there are so many variables that can effect cost... People always ask- "So you're a contractor- How much does a house cost per sq. ft"? I answer- "Are you talking a Ford Escort or a Mercedes 500SL???"
Concrete starts"curing" the minute it's poured. in warmer weather it can set hard in a short time. Learning how to "read" the setting/curing time comes with experience. There's a relatively short period in which concrete can be "worked"- troweled smooth, necessary stakes pulled, etc.. Concrete poured in Hoover Dam decades ago is still curing!!- slowly getting harder with age!! Most concrete is considered to have reached it's "working" strength in 28 days after pouring.. Dave
Great video. We are installing a 350 sq ft foundation with stemwall/crawl space to support a 2 story addition. Plans are approved. Looking for a masonry contractor to help us to get foundation done. Do you have a contact?
Why not just punch 12" pier holes for your grade beams 6' o.c. We built subdivisions this way in Fremont, Ca. for Citation Homes and Golden State Framers.
Hi "John"- Depends on the soil and your engineer. I've done em' both. The pier and grade beam type has been more money. One less subcontractor/supplier to wait on- the rebar supplier that forms and ties the spiral cages, etc..The engineers I've used go crazy with the amount of rebar. I'm sure you found ways to streamline the process if you did them repeatedly! Dave
@@daveosland3199 They asked how much you charged for THIS job though. You can def tell us how much you charged for THIS JOB... I'm betting around 10-12k..
Hoping you are still monitoring comments. I live in Iowa, and am getting ready to build a new garage, and want to get it up in the air a bit. My garage is going to be 24x28. Code here calls for a 4 inch floating slab with a 6x6" thickened edge. What I want to do is pour a "6 W x 20" H wall and then come back and pour a 4" floating slab, leaving 10" of the wall exposed from top of slab. I will build the garage on the wall. Reason I ask if that sounds reasonable is because I have had 3 contractors out to bid, and three different opinions, and they all have 10-30 years of experience. One wants to pour monolithically, all in one. One wants to pour slab with 1/2" rebar sticking up, then form and pour stem wall on edge of slab, the other one agrees with me. So....I turn to UA-cam, naturally. :-)
Hi Ryan- Like they say, more than 1 way to skin a cat... A monolith pour 20" off grade is a lot of form/fill work to get that high in one shot. Myself, I would pour a 12" x 12" footing- code minimum for a single story building, either incorporating the stem wall as a monolith pour, OR pour the 12x12" footing with #4 rebar sticking up every, say 24"o.c., followed by a 8-8-16 CMU block (I love "speedblock" which requires no end buttering with mortar) stem wall. Once the block is concrete filled/poured, back fill the garage area with compactible fill, lay a grid of rebar and pour the slab. I recently posted this design after questions just about this method- This is a way to get an elevated slab. ua-cam.com/video/9gC9BwwVjo4/v-deo.html You can also get a glimpse of the monolith poured footing/stemwall followed by back fill and a slab in another posted build- minute 1:50 on- ua-cam.com/video/FbYrGaoWIec/v-deo.html Let us know what you end up doing! Dave
@@daveosland3199 thank you. 4th guy came today. 30 years of experience, and wants to pour the slab with a 6"x6" thickened edge so 10" overall, with rebar sticking up, and lateral 1/2 reinforcement, then come back and pour the wall which will be formed on top of the slab. Second guy to recommend that, so think that we'll do that.
@@QuickFamily8144 Hi Ryan If the slab is elevated to 20" above the footing, it shouldn't be an issue. When pouring 20 foot high concrete tanks, we've sandblasted between 4' lifts to ensure a clean bonding surface to prevent leakage, but that would be unnecessary in your case. Dave
Woods is very expensive in my Country, because there not like a North America industrial forests,, Economically good profits woods importing from Russia and China,, You guys so likely has Alaska and getting Amazon forest also easily all America is lucky about woods as per to middle eastern market... If I am in USA I can play from woods to the make my house ,,
Hey Dave. Just wanted to say thanks for your stem wall instructional videos. I just poured the foundation for our cabin using your methods. Worked perfect! The concrete company commented over and over again about how well the forms were built, calling it "old school" and the way they used to be built.He said, "you just don't see this type of craftsmanship and attention to detail anymore". When he found out that it was the first time that we had built forms, he asked how I learned to build them this way...I told him that I learned by watching your videos. He was shocked! Again, thanks.
Love to hear it! I make these videos on the fly during construction.
Maybe I'll be able to slow down and get some more details/better videos.
Congrats on the good pour!!
Dave
Love watching things being built. There is a lot to be said for those who build things that last and bring a lot of joy and benefit to their users. As a lawyer I do as much tearing down as I do building so I love getting into the garage and building or repairing things. Its great therapy.
Very nice. A king stands out in front of the field when his craft is very good. Very good work.
Dave,
Thanks so much for posting this video. It really helps our design staff to see how foundations are set up and formed. Huge blessing.
This was great and very informative! Thanks for the video and sharing your knowledge!
-Jake (your neighbor up in Oregon!)
Thanks you so much! I've done lots of work above the concrete, but in the last 12 months I'm getting lots of foundation jobs that I barely know how to do... It's really wonderful to be able to watch skilled tradesman practice their craft... you learn a lot just from watching tools and bodies move, and the explanations and details are highly appreciated!
I've built over a hundred homes from the ground up, plus numerous foundations, etc..and STILL learn tons every time I do a new job!! If we aren't learning every day, something isn't right....
Glass Menagerie --- I'm old and retired but I built a lot of this type of construction. There is always something to learn on each house/project.....and we all learn by doing (aka experience). Concrete form work was a lot of fun for me as you never knew what the next forming job would be like and I enjoyed the variety.
Good luck in your career!
this was very helpful! I am making a 16'x18' perimeter 16 inches high and I can follow this video. Thank you!
Excellent tips and tricks...mighty fine crew you have there.
Excellent Mr Dave you are good example for others..God bless you n yr family ..amen
Well, thank you!!!
You guys do great work ! Keep it up gents !!!
super helpful... I think I will do this myself... you just saved me thousands!
Bless u dear
I've been doing concrete work for 43 years and I always appreciate seeing really good work, and I must say your formwork was done in a very efficient and easy way. I like the 12x12 blocks to hold the CBs in place. Gotta try that next time. Very well done sir
Extremely helpful, and well made video!!!
Glad you got something out of it!
Raised stem walls are less common now, but I appreciate the access to plumbing, etc, and the feel and warmth of a raised wood floor.
With increased costs of concrete slab foundations due to design/engineering, etc. the stem wall foundation is a competitively priced construction method, especially when the forms can be reused for another foundation or incorporated into the structure.-
Dave
great in detail video. very educational.
Excellent video.
HEAR YE HEAR YE!!! IMMEDIATELY SUB!!! This crew shares some awesome tips and tricks in this video. I immediately subbed after watching this (the first) video and can’t wait to see what else I can learn here.
I love the precast block trick.
Me too dear
Muy bueno video my friend you are very professional
Excellent, well done!
....13
Excellent job
Nice touch with the proverb at the end. :)
Thank you for posting. I'm having a guest house built and foundation is built the same way. Originally went with slab on grade but architect recommended a raised Foundation to make plumbing and eletrical repairs easier. It cost more but I think in the long run is better.
Slab-on-grade used to be the "poor man's" foundation, but with the engineering standards, etc., the cost is not very different. A lot of slabs are now "post tension".
Ask anyone who's had to jack hammer into a slab to repair plumbing if they would prefer it to a raised foundation. There's also a different feel and warmth to a raised wood floor......
Great example!!
I know this posting is older but I was wondering what all is coming up through the stem wall. Not including the sleeve for plumbing, I see ufer ground, and electrical. What are the other two. Com and water? What’s the black thing all the way to the right? This is the best video on stem wall foundations, thanks for sharing your forming secrets.
Nice clean work!
Thanks! It sure makes the subfloor frame easier.....
Good point of the form oil... We still put it on day before we add rebar gives it time to dry...
Great tip!
I might suggest excavating the crawl space area for trades working under the subfloor.
You're correct on the need for the crawl space. The 18' high stem wall creates the space without having to excavate a below grade area. I prefer this over the excavated method, to have the home sitting above adjoining grade to allow for sloped finish grade and to eliminate potential water/moisture infiltration into a lowered grade area.-
Dave
Expertise in engineering here
Good stuff man
Thank You!
You Bet!
hope there are a few tips to help forming...! Dave
Nice work sir
Very nice. For wet southern Louisiana I had a test compaction/consistency test performed saying I need to be 30-36 inches below grade to have 3000 psi soil though my engineer said I can go as low at 1500psi.. Base Flood Elevation is 36ft which happens to be 1.5 ft above grade. I am building at 37.5ft b/c BFE is the MIN allowed by building code and I want to higher. That puts the top of stem wall at 3 ft above grade which means my wall is 6ft total top to bottom and 16 inches wide. Lots of concrete. Although I like the idea of 2x12s running around the perimeter inside and out, that is a lot of boards and could leave a lot of lines to be finished the next day once the form boards are removed. Still not sure on my route to take.
Let me understand this- Your stem wall will be 16" thick and 6' high off the footing??? That would hold up a bank. I've done 6' high stem walls, but 8" wide is rated for 2 stories. Anyway, unless you can reuse the form lumber in the frame, I would use concrete block for the stemwall, but again, if it really is 16" thick, a plywood formed wall using whalers is another method used.
Hello David. Yes you are correct. From the bottom of the footing approx 36" inches down from grade extending out of the ground 36" above grade to reach 1.5 feet higher than BFE of 36 feet above sea level for my area. The footing/stem wall plans were drawn originally 12 inches wide by the engineer who is confident about it being enough support but both concrete 'guides' that I interviewed stated how difficult it would be to run 14 #5 rebar in such a tight area. After some discussion with them and the engineer I voted to make the width 4 inches wider to 16 inches. The cost of the concrete is not that much more for the speed to do what needs to get done. A rough calc has it about $5k more. One reason why so massive is the peak of the roof is 36 feet high, building is all steel AND the entire second story is (lightweight) concrete flooring 3-4 inches thick. So yes, in a way will hold up a bank but I stayed during Katrina and I plan to stay again in a much stronger domicile. For kicks I will be happy to send you the drawings. It borders commercial grade. In the meantime I will look up 'plywood formed wall using whalers'. Thank you for the lead.
and i thought i built burly......
@@davidosland1440 LOL
We use sds screws. Helps so much.
SDS screrws?? Thats expense when you use hundreds/thousands in a foundation. The drywall screws won't (usually)
split the form stakes... But I love SDS screws for structural applications!
Hey Dave, not sure if you miss my question below, but I'm just wondering if you could let me know full size of the building (width and length) , then you have the load bearing wall line up at interior garage foundation is that located half way of the width of the building.
Nice video- this is exactly how I was planning on pouring my footers and foundation wall. Is the footer formed by the trench, poured to the bottom of the stem wall? How soon do you pour the stem wall over the footing? Can you use the lumber in the construction or is too messy with concrete?
The footing is formed by the trench itself- no form boards. I use an 18" bucket for a 15" footing (2 story) or 12" bucket for a single story, unless plans dictate other wise.
The footing is pumped up to the bottom of the stem wall, so as to seal it for the wetter mix going into the stem wall.
Usually by the time the footing is poured, the stem can be started on the first poured areas where the footing was started. I try to pour the footing on the stiff side so as to prevent blow-outs when using the wetter mud in the stem. You can generally start pumping the stems 20-30 minutes after the footings have been poured. You don't want to wait very long as having formed stakes anchored in a solid footing is no fun!
After everything is poured and striked off, I go around with a hose and spray off everything I can so i have relatively clean lumber to put back into the subfloor in a couple of days. (i have a video showing the sub-floor being installed just a couple of days after the pour with the forming material.) ua-cam.com/video/4xMSep0uiRs/v-deo.html
Designing most of the homes we build, I plan on subfloor joisting that is compatable with the form material. It never has to leave the job and is a very cost efficient design/build technique-
Dave
Hi Dave, What is the full size of the building, then you have the load bearing wall line up at interior garage foundation is that located half way of the width of the building.
Hello Dave Osland. I would like to let you know that your excellent video inspired me to do my very own stem wall for my new garage and breezeway! I am a Window and Siding installer by trade but consider myself an all around carpenter who is not afraid to try and learn new things...I mean who doesn’t like to save money on labor 😃. I would love the chance to pick your brain on my stem wall construction as well...I’m about 35% completed by now...
send any questions!
dave
Dave Osland when putting the form ties on do you screw them on or nail those? Or just rely on the wedges to hold them in place? I figured nails or screws would possibly get in the way when stacking the 2x
Dave Osland also I’m in Michigan so in my city of livonia I have to go 42” from grade with footing. How many rows of rebar will I need?
So your footings are 42" in the earth??? Not knowing what codes you use, I would have to assume your plans call it out. In general, a minimum of two horizontal rebar 3" off the bottom of the footing is standard, with a single horizontal run every 18" as you go up in a stem wall. Out yonder here in Calif., we are usually adding vertical bar also, say, every 18" or so, extending from the top runs down to and hooking under the bottom runs. The engineering requirements generally are more than the minimum code requires.
If I understand, you have a 42" deep footing, I would probably consider pouring only the required footing depth, say, 15"?, and then use concrete block, like a opened ended speed block, to come up to stem wall height.
Someone who builds out there may have some more insight than I do to your particular situation-
Dave
Use the wedges supplied by the form tie maker, that's all you need. Be sure and use an 1/8" spacer between form board runs, to allow the insert of the tie. If not, you'll have to drop a saw blade in a lot of spots for the tie.
Great video. Quick question. Going to DIY a 30x40 3 car detached garage with garage doors on east and west sides enabling me to drive through. Should I stem wall the slab or just monolithic style. Pretty high dry area and hard.
I’d rather mono it just because it’s easier but wanted your opinion.
Best regards,
Jon
Good question. Unless it's a design issue, I would try a monolith slab pour. if your on a sloped area, a slab-on-grade would be more difficult....
Dave
David Osland thankyou for the quick response and info.
Hi just check out this video and I want to find out if there was a continuation video where it shows how you pour the slab out. We are constructing a house and they put the blocks in before pouring the foundation. I wanted to know if this is a commonly used method and if this will make my house stronger. Thanks
Thanks Dave, I mostly had jobs after pouring the concrete but lately I’ve been doing jobs where I have to pour the foundation. This was a great example for first timers like me. I showed my boss and he said that’s a old school way to do it and he found it very cool. I juts have one question that maybe you could answer it’s #3: What are your thoughts on the organized system used to do the forming and its finished look?
I'm not sure what you mean by "organized system".. The exposed concrete after the house is done can be left as is, painted to the ground or even veneered with stucco stone, brick, etc...
Dave
Good luck
gr8 vid! luv the bible quote!!!
if your bolts are set prior to pouring put a piece of tin foil to keep concrete off them.. or you can wet set.
Awesome
Super
Excelente
Eres muy sexy
Skills!
Thank you, another great video. How and when do you set the abs for the drain?
The abs for plumbing is installed after the subfloor has been framed.
See my subfloor framing vid here-
ua-cam.com/video/4xMSep0uiRs/v-deo.html
I always put a section of 4" ABS in the stem wall to pass the waste line thru and out of the house...
Dave
Thanks for the video, a great help for me in my planning to build a 28x40 garage that regional building requires to have a stem wall foundation here in Col-Spgs. What slump do you request for the pumped concrete? How long before you start putting sill plates down and framing with a winter time pour?
Hi Jeff-
A stiffer mix is used to fill the footings up to the bottom of the stem forms- say a 4" slump? But a 3/8" pea gravel mix will settle different than a 1/2"or 3/4"- Anyway, a stiff but pumpable mix is used first, then wet it up some so the mud leaves little or no voids in the visible stem wall sticking up out of the ground. Running a vibrator or tapping the forms with a hammer is good practice. Nothing like a smooth clean surface when you strip those forms!! If a wetter mix is used first, you stand the chance of the mud blowing out of the bottom of the stem portion. I'll often put plates down the next day, but you might want to wait a day or two in cold weather, as concrete cures very slowly at low temps....
Dave
Hi Dave, thank you for your amazing video. I also start constructing my new project and it will be my first project :). It is 2 story unit. As you mentioned below, footing width is 15'' and stem wall width is 8''. The depth for the exterior walls are min 24'' deep and footing depth is 12''. I have excavated the soil exactly 15'' width. But i am wondering how to nail stakes to the wood which is blow the ground level? Can you give me any advice?
Hi Adam-
Tough question! Generally, the forms are not hung below grade, because of access to fastening. The best i could think of is to use a 2x12 to extend down below grade, but have the top edge close enough to the trench lip to get a screw into the top edge to hold it.
on other foundations where I've had to go below grade, I've used a concrete block stem wall rather than wood forms..
Hey Dave, Great video. I was hoping you could answer a couple questions for me. I was wondering how you secure your vertical rebar? And when dealing with a sloped lot, how would you step up when doing a single pour? Thank you
Vertical rebar is tied with pre-made 6" wire ties (they come in rolls of 500). The vertical ties have a short bend on the bottoms, which are tied to the bottom member as well as being tied to the horizontal runs. See the set up in this video-
ua-cam.com/video/9gC9BwwVjo4/v-deo.html
On a sloped lot, the footings are cut in steps as well as the forms stepped up the lot.
Start the pour at the lowest point and pour the footings, to be followed by topping off the stem walls after all the footings are poured. There's usually enough time to prevent the stem wall mud from blowing out the footings when poured 1/2 an hour to 45 minutes later after the footings are poured ...
Dave
Psst: A 2x10 is 9 1/4. Used to be anyway. Everything above 2x6 drops from a half to a quarter (unless that has changed or I learned wrong way back). Nice video.
a 2x 10 is still 9.5" here in Cal.. Framing lumber is still green Doug fir, not kiln dried like elsewhere....
I just went next-door where they finished pouring a slab last week. Mostly only 2x6 material there sitting around. But one 2x8 treated. It measured out a wee bit less than 7 1/4. There was an old carpenter unloading stuff at the time here on Sunday morning. He looked toward me with that, 'What do you want on my lot' expression. So I explained the story. Right then he assured me that they are all 1/2, this coming 60 seconds after my measuring his own board and finding different.
Then I looked online at maybe 3 sites to verify. See link below for one of them. Seems like I win the bar discussion thus far. Old carpenters who are far better at their trade than my couple years as a trainee framer and some time as a finish carpenter are apparently unaware of this weird matter done in the lumber industry for whatever reason.
You owe me a beer (maybe).
www.thesprucecrafts.com/understanding-wood-sizes-in-softwood-lumber-3536905
Nice job
Thanks!
Hey Dave awesome foundation, they make a coupler for abs or plastic in 6 inch or 8 for sewer to glue into pretty slick makes for a nice tight pass through with no foam. Hope you can use them you seem like the type that would appreciate them.
What material did you use to form the foundation, and then how will you use this material next?
2x Douglas Fir will be used in the framing of the subfloor. I have a video on subfloor framing showing this...
Dave
time to buy some form boards
Hi Dave. I’ve watched a lot of videos about forming in prep for me to repair my garage. I’m planning to add a stem wall above an existing foundation.The previous owner had raised the landscaping about 8” above the top of the slab, so the bottom of the 2x4 walls (true 2x4’s and 1x6 exterior cladding inside Vinyl siding)
My plan was to cut a groove into the foundation,drill holes for the anchor bolts, then add a 2’ high stem wall on top at 6” thickness
Any advice is appreciated.Thanks
Sorry for the delayed response! Cutting a groove sounds ugly.
You might consider drilling into, cleaning and epoxying vertical rebar dowels at say16"o.c. and forming.
The dowels will anchor the stem to the existing concrete. They make nifty double barrel epoxy guns and tubes!
Excellent and very informative video but I didn't see any foundation vents. Did I miss something? Or aren't they required where you poured this?
They'll be in the framed sub floor rim.
you can see them on my "sub floor framing" video... Dave
Thanks for the talent and skill you shared with us, totally agree with the scripture. I have a question, I’m building a post frame house 32’x32’ , it’s on a slope, slopes down from almost 6” at high point down to about 30” on the other end low point. So I’m not drilling posts here, can I build a foundation wall 16” wide and level out from the low side up to the high point , then anchor my posts 8’ apart just as if I drilled a post for each post?
Thanks for the impute, blessings. Larry
Hi Larry-
I'm trying to visualize exactly what you are asking here...
A foundation as in the video, can be done, everything level, with no step up or downs.
Obviously, the stem wall will be higher as the site elevation drops.
A complete perimeter foundation, 16" wide, with a concrete slab floor spanning the interior section?
If I'm understanding, I would pour an 8 " wide stem wall as in the video, and form 16"x16" wide pilasters where each post will sit.
You'll want a significant drift pin or other way to anchor the posts in place.
Dave
what do you do about ventilation i didnt see any vent holes formed in your wall our code requires us to have vents with in 3' of each corner? i am building my own house and wondering if i should do this or lay block i enjoy carpentry work more than block so im leaning to stem walls all the way around what do you think?
The foundation vents are put in the wooden subfloor framing- easy-peasy.
Should you need to put the vents in the concrete itself, I like to uses a CMU (concrete block), lay it on it's side, leaving it open from inside to outside and then install durable screening to prevent critter infiltration!!
See my video on subfloors... Dave
maybe you could show an overview with the actual plan of the project so that people see how the actual project looks like before zooming on different areas and describe details.
Thanks
Yes absolutely
Daniel Alcock LOOKY!
Sir, i see this is five years ago, i have a question . I have to do a similar 2 foot high stem wall for an addition. This is the only stem wall footer combo ive seen .so, you guys formed slightly below grade and let the bottom partially fill trench. You poured bottom to base of forms first . Did you have a cold joint or did you come behind and make it into one?????
Sorry for the late reply-
As soon as the footing is poured to the bottom of the formed stem wall, you can generally go back to the starting point of the pour and top off the stem, as the concrete has had several minutes to stiffen up enough to support the wet mud in the stem forms. Dave
Curious, is it a big deal if the wall shifts a little while pouring? I mean maintaining level height and corners I’m sure are most important but what if one of the sides bows a little? Building a footing for my shop in the woods now and trying to figure this out. Thanks sir
Hey, Hank!
if 45 degree "kickers" (diagonal braces) are placed every 3-4', on both sides of the forms, movement should be nil..
Dave
thak you the did jues but jues bee good god jues for now thak you thak you
do you think it would be possible to pour a stem wall, fill the inside with dirt, and then pour an elevated slab to the height of the stem wall?
Good question!
Yep!! Done it numerous times. If I do one in the future, I'll post a video of it!
Dave
Nice video. I'm assuming being in Calli your local codes only require 12" or 18" footing? Must be Nice! Here in Jersey everything is 32" to 36" minimum. Anyway, Nice form work!
Yep, 12x12" for a single story,15x15" 2 story and 18x18" 3 story footings, unless soils reports dictate otherwise.
6", 8" stem wall thickness for 1 and 2 story, generally. With so much engineering nowadays, we get all manner of foundations. Pre-stressed slabs seem to be gaining popularity as a way to avoid "engineering" of the soils- excavation/recompaction in lifts, importing soils, etc...
Unless your up in the high elevations, heaving soils due to "frost line" isn't a worry, hence shallower footings.
Basements? Almost unheard of round' here!!
Dave
Oops! Brain Fart!! 2 story is 15" wide x 18 deep. 3 story is 23" min. width. Although footing depths will vary, it is curious that in many cases only a 6" concrete footing thickness may be required at the bottom of those depths (as opposed to filling the whole footing with concrete)! Where it gets crazy is the amount of steel that can be required. The latest plans I've worked on include 5"x5" plate "washers"on the mud sill!!!
Dave
Are kickers required to be on both sides of the board? My concrete contractor wants to charge extra because my plumbing contractor disturbed the boards when trenching for plumbing but he only had kickers on one side to begin with.
Good question!
Kickers should be on both sides, so as to resist movement from both sides or directions.
Dave
The form boards now would be close to three $3000
Yea, someone is making some $$$.
I would think about using concrete block now ( i posted a video on the plan details for that). As for the form boards, I always try to design the house so as to use the form boards in the floor framing. You're going to have to spend the bucks on them any way or pour a concrete floor/slab foundation. Concrete ain't cheap anymore either-Dave
Nice
Why do you poured the first nine yards of concrete all the way around the bottom of the form first instead of filling the form to the top as they went along?
Good question!
The footing mud needs to stiffen up for a while to prevent the pressure from the stem wall mud blowing the footing out and allowing the stem mud to billow down into the footing...
I'll bring the mud up to the bottom of the stem wall with the 1st truck (generally 9 yards). By the time the 2nd truck arrives and we start pumping, the concrete where we 1st started has set up enough to allow the 2nd lift to top off the stem wall without blowing out...
Dave
@@daveosland3199
Do you vibrate the concrete?
@@lumberjackdreamer6267 We use different methods to "settle" the concrete.-
Can be as simple as tapping the forms with a hammer, often using a 1x2 stake to rod the mud, or in places that are tight or suspect, quickly plunging a vibrator into the mud. Notice the word quickly- a few seconds too long can send the concrete billowing out of the bottom of the forms....
@@daveosland3199
Thanks. I have been using a vibrator on sono tube piers (dug with auger, 48” deep by 10” wide). I kept with vibrator for a long time, maybe too long? But my mud was also maybe too thick, didn’t flow well. It’s my first time doing concrete.
@@daveosland3199
Your videos are very informative. Thanks.
That looks really good!
Just wondering what state was that garage and house?
The Golden State
Really good dear
can you wait a day , to pour the the rest of the stem wall after you fill the bottom '?
"Concrete waits for no man" The vertical stakes would be locked in place if the pour was dragged out, with this method.
Other forming methods might allow for staged pours- Concrete block, ply forms with snap ties, etc...
@@daveosland3199 Actually this video is super misleading stem wall and monolithic are TWO ENTIRELY DIFFERENT types of slabs...... Stem wall foundations are very much done in TWO pours.
Whats the pros and cons on a stem wall vs a post tensioned slab?
Good question!
i like raised wood floors (stem wall foundation)- Easy access to underfloor plumbing/mechanical for servicing/remodeling, can insulate (warm floors), can be less moisture infiltration as can happen thru concrete slabs.
Traditionally, slab construction has been cheaper than stem walls, but the additional engineering in modern slabs seems to make it a wash in many circumstances...
In California, theres no competicion, theres lots of work for everyone..
how about a gore on 26 inch.round duct. can you show me how to do that?
A 26" gore?? I've laid out smaller ones on paper for templates, but you probably can lay it out on a 4x sheet of metal. I like a dry erase pen for easy cleaning up of mistakes when laying out...
Let us know what worked for you- Dave
how long do you wait to take the vertical stakes out after pouring?
As soon as possible! As soon as the forms have been topped off and screened, I usually start pulling! It gets really ugly if you wait too long....
So you rely on the form ties to hold the shape of the stem wall ... the stakes are only to locate the form. Will the voids left by the stakes fill themselves or do you have to fill them individually?
Yep, the form ties and lumber hold the concrete in place. We don't fill the 1x2 voids left by the stakes, the backfill grading against the stem wall takes care of that.
Not very long, usually just after we top and screed the stem. A couple of hours, tops.You can't wait too long or you'll have to break off the stakes rather than pull them.....
At first I thought what the heck why use a screw gun but the way you guys did it actually was nice to learn :)
Out of curiosity how do you guys charge someone to do a job like this? Is it done by the sqft of the foot print of the structure or outer surface area of the walls?
men where in california i live in california what city i wana do a foundation with u i like how u explain things never did one before i wana learn
Good learn more here
thak you good jues but for we was bee jues now thak you thak you thak you and jues
Dave, how long between footing pour and stem wall pour? Thanks
Usually by the time the footing is poured (usually 30-45 minutes) you just continue on up with the stem walls.
@@daveosland3199 Thanks for the great video Mr Osland. I'm curious though, and maybe I missed the reason why,.but you didn't need to form up a footing. You just let it flow out the bottom when you pour the stem wall? (I ask because I'd rather do that than form a footing for my 24'x24' cabin tin the PNW.)
@@regw8322 The walls of the dug footing themselves are the "form"....
@@regw8322 Yep- It just flows into the footing, and then up into the formed stem wall.
The trench (18x18") forms the footing- no need for any forming. Generally hang the stem wall boards about even or a couple of inches below/into the footing trench.
Dave, do you know how high a stem wall can be poured before it needs engineering
Code section 404 shows up to 9' tall with a 12" thickness, but every application can be different and often engineering is required on walls much less than that depending on each circumstance.
For the past several years nearly any project I've done (in bureaucratic California) required engineering.
@@daveosland3199 yes I'm in northern California someone told me 6 feet without engineering then just build a 4 foot pony wall on top of that. This is for a daylight basement foundation. Thanks for getting back
No vibrating? Top of your mix looks rough . Vibrating will bring the cream up for a better surface to build on
we do vibrate, hammer tap the forms and vertically rod the mud. Only so much is shown on the video, as I'm busy on the pour and not trying to make a "groomed" video...Dave
Didn't see exterior drainage outside and below the foundation.
You're right! The soil there was extremely well drained sandy loam, and no need for any drainage. Finish grade is sloped away from foundation to eliminate any pooling adjacent to the house-
A finish grade is done after the foundation is complete, generally a 2-5% grade away from the foundation, usually for at least 5'. Since I generally don't excavate on the interior area, and we aren't in clay, no drainage is needed below the foundation or structure.- Dave
I'm just learning about this. I was wondering, are the wood footers saved for future jobs? Or does a lot of it get thrown out do to holes, weathering etc?
Good question! We'll use as much as possible in the subfloor framing, joisting, rafters ,blocking etc...
I've a subfloor framing video showing the reuse of the form boards.. Dave
ua-cam.com/video/4xMSep0uiRs/v-deo.html
Trying to find out what a foundation like this cost per ft
Good question!! Around $15/sq.ft. but that can widely vary depending on layout, lot slope, engineering, etc...
@@daveosland3199 thank you, if you dont mind, is it 15 x total of house sq ft or wall
@@patriccrigler7981 1500 sq ft home x15$/ft-
But there are so many variables that can effect cost...
People always ask- "So you're a contractor- How much does a house cost per sq. ft"?
I answer- "Are you talking a Ford Escort or a Mercedes 500SL???"
does the concrete not need to cure?
Concrete starts"curing" the minute it's poured.
in warmer weather it can set hard in a short time.
Learning how to "read" the setting/curing time comes with experience. There's a relatively short period in which concrete can be "worked"- troweled smooth, necessary stakes pulled, etc..
Concrete poured in Hoover Dam decades ago is still curing!!- slowly getting harder with age!!
Most concrete is considered to have reached it's "working" strength in 28 days after pouring..
Dave
@@daveosland3199 Wow that's crazy!!! thx for the info!!!
that is going to be one little house!! HELL THE GARGE IS LIKE HALF the space, well euro's say AMERICANS love there cars guess they are right!!
it's a 2 story- 1500' conditioned space + the garage....
Great video. We are installing a 350 sq ft foundation with stemwall/crawl space to support a 2 story addition. Plans are approved. Looking for a masonry contractor to help us to get foundation done. Do you have a contact?
Why not just punch 12" pier holes for your grade beams 6' o.c. We built subdivisions this way in Fremont, Ca. for Citation Homes and Golden State Framers.
Hi "John"-
Depends on the soil and your engineer.
I've done em' both. The pier and grade beam type has been more money.
One less subcontractor/supplier to wait on-
the rebar supplier that forms and ties the spiral cages, etc..The engineers I've used go crazy with the amount of rebar.
I'm sure you found ways to streamline the process if you did them repeatedly!
Dave
How do I fix a 10 by 12 broken fence
dis foo 😂 I thought you spun around
Ayy I had the same question, maybe Dave can help us
That's a garage and a house?
Yes, attached garage w/ 2 story house.
Dave
How much did you charge
Costs vary on site, layout complexity, engineering involved, etc..
There's no set formula I've found you can accurately get out of a book...
Dave
@@daveosland3199 They asked how much you charged for THIS job though. You can def tell us how much you charged for THIS JOB... I'm betting around 10-12k..
Hoping you are still monitoring comments. I live in Iowa, and am getting ready to build a new garage, and want to get it up in the air a bit. My garage is going to be 24x28. Code here calls for a 4 inch floating slab with a 6x6" thickened edge. What I want to do is pour a "6 W x 20" H wall and then come back and pour a 4" floating slab, leaving 10" of the wall exposed from top of slab. I will build the garage on the wall. Reason I ask if that sounds reasonable is because I have had 3 contractors out to bid, and three different opinions, and they all have 10-30 years of experience. One wants to pour monolithically, all in one. One wants to pour slab with 1/2" rebar sticking up, then form and pour stem wall on edge of slab, the other one agrees with me. So....I turn to UA-cam, naturally. :-)
Hi Ryan-
Like they say, more than 1 way to skin a cat...
A monolith pour 20" off grade is a lot of form/fill work to get that high in one shot.
Myself, I would pour a 12" x 12" footing- code minimum for a single story building, either incorporating the stem wall as a monolith pour, OR
pour the 12x12" footing with #4 rebar sticking up every, say 24"o.c., followed by a 8-8-16 CMU block (I love "speedblock" which requires no end buttering with mortar) stem wall.
Once the block is concrete filled/poured, back fill the garage area with compactible fill, lay a grid of rebar and pour the slab.
I recently posted this design after questions just about this method- This is a way to get an elevated slab.
ua-cam.com/video/9gC9BwwVjo4/v-deo.html
You can also get a glimpse of the monolith poured footing/stemwall followed by back fill and a slab in another posted build-
minute 1:50 on-
ua-cam.com/video/FbYrGaoWIec/v-deo.html
Let us know what you end up doing!
Dave
@@daveosland3199 thank you. 4th guy came today. 30 years of experience, and wants to pour the slab with a 6"x6" thickened edge so 10" overall, with rebar sticking up, and lateral 1/2 reinforcement, then come back and pour the wall which will be formed on top of the slab. Second guy to recommend that, so think that we'll do that.
@@QuickFamily8144 Sounds good!
Dave
Is there a way to protect against wall seeping where the slab and separately poured stem wall meet?
@@QuickFamily8144 Hi Ryan
If the slab is elevated to 20" above the footing, it shouldn't be an issue.
When pouring 20 foot high concrete tanks, we've sandblasted between 4' lifts to ensure a clean bonding surface to prevent leakage, but that would be unnecessary in your case.
Dave
You can stagger all you want, but unless you place a stake at the seams of your forms they are still a weak point, just saying ;)
Rightly said
Woods is very expensive in my Country, because there not like a North America industrial forests,, Economically good profits woods importing from Russia and China,, You guys so likely has Alaska and getting Amazon forest also easily all America is lucky about woods as per to middle eastern market... If I am in USA I can play from woods to the make my house ,,
Hi Ertugrul-
Here in the U.S., though we import some woods, we also have many forests.
Thank you for watching the video! Dave
TU PARLE TROP AU LUI QUE TU TRAVAIL LES CHINOIS ET LES VIETNAMIEN MIEUX QUE TOI
Excellent job
Thanks for the visit