Good video. I just picked up the Holt oil pump from Harbor Freight. It connects directly to the oil fill tube. No need to ever crawl under the car again. It worked perfectly and got all the oil out clean and neat. Highly recommend!
You don't even need to lift the car. You can get a $20 pump on amazon, and change the oil through the oil cap. (That's what the little tube in there is for).
Thanks my man, Just purchased the same model 2012, I like doing all the maintennance, saved me some more $. I would change the oil every 5K max, these engine require a clean block to function so they don't populate any sensor problems, trust me, my 7 series BMW was finnicky, after all those Germans now own JAG as well.
Brother - - brother turn that oil out every 6,000 miles. Castrol will not warranty your motor. If the oil is dirty at 6,000 miles that is when you need to change oil and filter. Using ramp great great idea great decision. 😎
you should only take the belly pan off every 5th oil change to do a visual inspection . Normal oil changes should be vacumed from the top this is the way jag designed it, the dealer will only vacum out the oil from above they will not pay the tech to take of the belly pan off, also the belly pan will not hold up to the constant on and off once you are set up for vacum oil removal it is the easiest oil change you will ever do thank you for your very informative videos
@@oxmanagain actually because you vacuum out the bottom of the oil filter housing you get more out extracting than you do from below you can get a reasonable extractor for less than $100 , you will find many uses , cleaning out dirty brake fluid and on and on
Thanks, simple stuff. But I didn’t realize there was a lower drain plug. Great, I didn’t want to purchase a top siphon now I know, either undo 13 bolts or buy a siphon. 13 bolts it is!! Thanks kiddo
There’s no way it’s good to go 20,000 miles between an oil and filter change. My BMWs were always ridiculously high on the oil service interval like that, but as a general rule just change it once it gets dirty. No sense in driving with black oil. Since you don’t have a dipstick, you may have to just check the fill cap or peek down the throat some. Thanks for uploading. I don’t have a Jag but I enjoy your videos 😎
That’s not really good reasoning oil gets dirty it’s part of what it does. Oil can be dirty after 1000 miles depending on your engine where you live how you drive your car!
What's up bro. I see we have kind of the same taste lol. I just had a 2006 STS V but I now have a 2010 jag xfr. Nice Jag bro. I was looking to get a supercharged xjl but just got the xfr
Fantastic video. I just picked up a used Jaguar XJ L Portfolio, with 142k miles, and what seems like the owner, not taking care of the car in the first place. I am extremely shocked at how easy changing the oil on such a beautiful car.
Thank you. I hqve learned how to change most of tge things on my Honda. But been driving with dirty oil for some time. Kindly please do the Battery video when its finished. I dont think the battery gets finished. Hiw come we exchange them not through them away.
Is there a place under the hood to easily add transmission fluid? Is a transmission fluid change just as easy in this car as an oil change? Really good video thanks!
@@oxmanagain Have you ever done a transmission fluid change or had it done at the dealer? And can I ask how is your transmission holding up? Sorry there's just no info anywhere on this!
@@andrewzamora7 A transmission fluid change is best left to a professional IMO. You typically replace the oil pan and (attached) filter at the same time, and it's not something you want to do wrong. Cost me about $800 at my local specialized mechanic parts and labor.
If you put the bolt on tight why would any oil leak? Secondly you didn’t let it drain that long to get every bit of oil out. Had you, you could’ve just replenished with the factory requirements of oil and been done.
I changed the map sensor on my 2012 Jaguar xjl I took off the battery cable that it could reprogram itself in the computer and it didn't do it have to bring it to somebody and have them take out the fault code for the map sensor
Thanks for the video. I am sure by now you are aware of the other way to change the oil in an XJ. How did you reset the "Service Required" warning? Thanks.
Yes you are right. I did learn the other way and It is much easier also. I was going to explain how to reset the light but I found this website and it breaks it down on all models. carhowto.com/reset-xj-oil-service-light-years-2003-2015/
This jag isnt supercharged though. Im wondering if the process is the same. I tried my drain plug once and that joker was stuck on there good son😂😂. Ill try again though now after watching this
The badging on the side of the car says supercharged and on the other side it says portfolio. Plus the paperwork also causes a supercharger. Multiple people have said the same thing but that's what the paper work says. Obviously you don't want to strip that plug so be careful. When a nut is stuck on a closed in wrench is one of the best.
I get that it's a Jaguar XjL 5.0 liter with the Portfolio trim......but Supercharged? Looks like a naturally aspirated jaguar AJ V8 engine to me. Where did Jaguar put the supercharger on this model?
I agree with you. But the badging says supercharged and so does the paperwork. But I don't know where it is. I know that sounds funny but I'm with you.
One question and a couple comments. Do you still own the XJ? Did it give you any other problems aside for the head gasket/cooling issues? Comment one. Regardless of what the oil says it is guaranteed for, everyone has different driving habits and vehicles are used in varying conditions (lots of city miles, lots of highway, or a combination), so the best thing to do is just check the oil every 1k to 2k miles for quality. and once it losses enough clarity or becomes opaque, change it. That will tell you going forward how generally often "your" car needs it's oil changed. The problem with a lot of cars anymore though, and especially German cars, is they don't include an oil dipstick to visually check it's condition, but they still make them and you can still buy one and insert it into the tube that now has a plug in it and check the oil traditionally. You can even take it out and replug the tube if you don't want to leave it in since some have plastic parts now that might break off if left in and overheat. Comment two: There are those who change their oil by extracting it via the dipstick tube instead of draining it at the plug. Cars like this were purposely designed with that in mind, and that's why the filter is on top, and they hide the pan, drain plug and other things under panels that cover everything up. This makes it much easier to extract the oil versus draining it, but you need to first buy a good extractor (cheap ones are junk) and you have to be confident in believing the extraction tube was inserted far enough to get everything, and was pulling out all the oil it could have, becuase just like with spray bottles, we know there's typically a good amount of liquid at the bottom even when nothing is coming out. Only with cars, you can't see if the tube is touching the bottom. You might feel it hit something, but it might not necessarily be the bottom of the pan, and the end of the tube might even be pointing up. Another issue I have with extraction is if you can pull out say only 6 quarts of a 7 quart oil system, do you just assume you were a quart low and then put 7 back in, or do you trust there was some left in there and only put back 6 to mix with the old oil before starting the car, letting it warm up, and recheck the oil level screen? Unless you are careful, you can possibly be putting in too much oil, or not enough, and you won't know until you do this. If it's not enough you'll need to add some but how much? My graphical bar screen doesn't say "You are .2 quarts low'). You could also have overfilled and not know it becuase it won't tell you what's too much on the digital gauge, and that would be worse. I always wondered why my indicator screen has a MAX level, but no room above it for TOO MUCH. Even if just topping off, it's just guessing to know exactly how much to add without constantly getting in, and rechecking the screen IMO, the extraction method brings just a bit too much uncertainty to save a few minutes of getting under the car, and getting a little dirty, and for peace of mind, by doing a traditional oil change by draining at the plug, I'll know all the oil is out (at least as much as could be without dropping the pan), and I'll know putting in 7 quarts is all I need to do no matter how much I took out, and there will be no guessing. Also, the benefit of getting under there and taking off the panels that hide everything, allows me to see if I have any leaks, or other issues developing that is hard to see with the way they button up engine bays anymore.
First off thanks for watching and I appreciate you leaving such a detail and compelling comments. I don't really like the extracting the oil from the top just because you don't get all the oil out. Yes it's a lot easier much more convenient but I want all the oil out and it's only once every couple of months. The only issues I've had were the head gasket and my water pump. When everything is working perfectly I love the jack. When you have to go get it fixed it is expensive though. And that's why I try to do most of the maintenance myself. If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask. Enjoy the rest of your day.
On the later model years you can reset the service interval light by opening the hood, driver door, turning the ignition on (key on engine off), and pressing both the brake pedal and accelerator pedal at the same time for roughly 10-15 seconds. Then you can check by going to vehicle info on your cluster menu and scroll down to next service. If you did it correctly it should say service due in ~16,150 miles
Does you manual book recommend that exact kind of oil? Or did you just want to go a cheaper route. Asking because I have the same car as yours just a 2014 and mine recommends castrol edge professional. And they don't sell that anywhere. Only dealerships have it that's why I take mine to a dealership I spend a arm and a leg. I would like to do my own oil but I'm nerves it recommends that for a reason. Just wondering if I could get away with putting what you put in instead of professional.
Rango, The brand matters very little, if the weight and viscosity numbers match up - if they do you are good to go. Consider that the oil cap just references the oil weight - though I'd go full synthetic, not necessarily Mobil-1, of course. Remember you are just going to throw the stuff away in a few months/miles. Good Luck.
Mistake not to put some oil to lubricate the filter sealing ring before replacing filter housing.
Good video. I just picked up the Holt oil
pump from Harbor Freight. It connects directly to the oil fill tube. No need to ever crawl under the car again. It worked perfectly and got all the oil out clean and neat. Highly recommend!
Thank you very much for that information.
I wouldn’t use that method. You want to see if you have metal shavings on drain plug + any heavy oil sludge is best removed from drain at bottom
You don't even need to lift the car. You can get a $20 pump on amazon, and change the oil through the oil cap. (That's what the little tube in there is for).
Best to do it by draining to prevent sludge from building up
@jnew7622 I would think draining from the bottom is the best way as well. The oil, settles down not up.
Thanks my man, Just purchased the same model 2012, I like doing all the maintennance, saved me some more $. I would change the oil every 5K max, these engine require a clean block to function so they don't populate any sensor problems, trust me, my 7 series BMW was finnicky, after all those Germans now own JAG as well.
You are 100% correct. Appreciate the advice and enjoy your day.
Brother - - brother turn that oil out every 6,000 miles. Castrol will not warranty your motor. If the oil is dirty at 6,000 miles that is when you need to change oil and filter. Using ramp great great idea great decision. 😎
Great video sir I will be changing my own oil on my 2011 Jaguar XF 👍👍👍
Thank you for the info. I have a 2011 xjl supercharger
I have been ripped off by dealerships plus lub shops.
you should only take the belly pan off every 5th oil change to do a visual inspection . Normal oil changes should be vacumed from the top this is the way jag designed it, the dealer will only vacum out the oil from above they will not pay the tech to take of the belly pan off, also the belly pan will not hold up to the constant on and off once you are set up for vacum oil removal it is the easiest oil change you will ever do thank you for your very informative videos
You are 100% right. I need to learn how to do it that way.
@@oxmanagain actually because you vacuum out the bottom of the oil filter housing you get more out extracting than you do from below you can get a reasonable extractor for less than $100 , you will find many uses , cleaning out dirty brake fluid and on and on
@@oxmanagain ua-cam.com/video/qzjwDh-BD14/v-deo.html
Oil change explained in a simple way. Thanks
Great video, thank you, I’ll be doing my oil change on 2011xjl, dealer charged me $300.00
I'm glad you mentioned no dipstick. I thought the previous seller lost it or something
I agree that it is a little strange to not have a dipstick. It took me awhile to get used to it.
Thanks, simple stuff. But I didn’t realize there was a lower drain plug.
Great, I didn’t want to purchase a top siphon now I know, either undo 13 bolts or buy a siphon.
13 bolts it is!!
Thanks kiddo
There’s no way it’s good to go 20,000 miles between an oil and filter change. My BMWs were always ridiculously high on the oil service interval like that, but as a general rule just change it once it gets dirty. No sense in driving with black oil. Since you don’t have a dipstick, you may have to just check the fill cap or peek down the throat some. Thanks for uploading. I don’t have a Jag but I enjoy your videos 😎
Great points and I appreciate your support. Have a blessed day.
That’s not really good reasoning oil gets dirty it’s part of what it does. Oil can be dirty after 1000 miles depending on your engine where you live how you drive your car!
What's up bro. I see we have kind of the same taste lol. I just had a 2006 STS V but I now have a 2010 jag xfr. Nice Jag bro. I was looking to get a supercharged xjl but just got the xfr
Opět velmi zajimavé a technické video...líbí se mi tvá tvůrčí videa :)
Fantastic video. I just picked up a used Jaguar XJ L Portfolio, with 142k miles, and what seems like the owner, not taking care of the car in the first place. I am extremely shocked at how easy changing the oil on such a beautiful car.
Isn't it amazing and how fast the car is?
great video
Do you also reset the "Service Required" light yourself?
Thank you. I hqve learned how to change most of tge things on my Honda. But been driving with dirty oil for some time.
Kindly please do the Battery video when its finished. I dont think the battery gets finished. Hiw come we exchange them not through them away.
Excellent video, thank you.
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching.
Is there a place under the hood to easily add transmission fluid? Is a transmission fluid change just as easy in this car as an oil change? Really good video thanks!
No, you can't add any transmission from the top. It is a lot easier to change the oil.
@@oxmanagain Have you ever done a transmission fluid change or had it done at the dealer? And can I ask how is your transmission holding up? Sorry there's just no info anywhere on this!
@@andrewzamora7 A transmission fluid change is best left to a professional IMO. You typically replace the oil pan and (attached) filter at the same time, and it's not something you want to do wrong. Cost me about $800 at my local specialized mechanic parts and labor.
Thank you!
If you put the bolt on tight why would any oil leak? Secondly you didn’t let it drain that long to get every bit of oil out. Had you, you could’ve just replenished with the factory requirements of oil and been done.
I changed the map sensor on my 2012 Jaguar xjl I took off the battery cable that it could reprogram itself in the computer and it didn't do it have to bring it to somebody and have them take out the fault code for the map sensor
Thanks for the video. I am sure by now you are aware of the other way to change the oil in an XJ. How did you reset the "Service Required" warning? Thanks.
Yes you are right. I did learn the other way and It is much easier also. I was going to explain how to reset the light but I found this website and it breaks it down on all models.
carhowto.com/reset-xj-oil-service-light-years-2003-2015/
@@oxmanagain Thanks.. Answered my question. Happy Father's Day(if you are a father)
@@terrellwright7565 You're welcome and I appreciate the Father's Day wish. Back at you if you're a father also.
@@oxmanagainso we need a scan tool?
👍Great job 👌👍🍷
This jag isnt supercharged though. Im wondering if the process is the same. I tried my drain plug once and that joker was stuck on there good son😂😂. Ill try again though now after watching this
The badging on the side of the car says supercharged and on the other side it says portfolio. Plus the paperwork also causes a supercharger. Multiple people have said the same thing but that's what the paper work says. Obviously you don't want to strip that plug so be careful. When a nut is stuck on a closed in wrench is one of the best.
I get that it's a Jaguar XjL 5.0 liter with the Portfolio trim......but Supercharged? Looks like a naturally aspirated jaguar AJ V8 engine to me. Where did Jaguar put the supercharger on this model?
I agree with you. But the badging says supercharged and so does the paperwork. But I don't know where it is. I know that sounds funny but I'm with you.
At front of engine. Follow the SC belt (fat one) and you will see it
Hi can i use 5W 30 oil for my jaquar xjl 5liter V8
@@alexjohnraj in an emergency you can switch but I personally would just stick with the 5W-20 that the car recommends
One question and a couple comments. Do you still own the XJ? Did it give you any other problems aside for the head gasket/cooling issues?
Comment one. Regardless of what the oil says it is guaranteed for, everyone has different driving habits and vehicles are used in varying conditions (lots of city miles, lots of highway, or a combination), so the best thing to do is just check the oil every 1k to 2k miles for quality. and once it losses enough clarity or becomes opaque, change it. That will tell you going forward how generally often "your" car needs it's oil changed. The problem with a lot of cars anymore though, and especially German cars, is they don't include an oil dipstick to visually check it's condition, but they still make them and you can still buy one and insert it into the tube that now has a plug in it and check the oil traditionally. You can even take it out and replug the tube if you don't want to leave it in since some have plastic parts now that might break off if left in and overheat.
Comment two: There are those who change their oil by extracting it via the dipstick tube instead of draining it at the plug. Cars like this were purposely designed with that in mind, and that's why the filter is on top, and they hide the pan, drain plug and other things under panels that cover everything up. This makes it much easier to extract the oil versus draining it, but you need to first buy a good extractor (cheap ones are junk) and you have to be confident in believing the extraction tube was inserted far enough to get everything, and was pulling out all the oil it could have, becuase just like with spray bottles, we know there's typically a good amount of liquid at the bottom even when nothing is coming out. Only with cars, you can't see if the tube is touching the bottom. You might feel it hit something, but it might not necessarily be the bottom of the pan, and the end of the tube might even be pointing up.
Another issue I have with extraction is if you can pull out say only 6 quarts of a 7 quart oil system, do you just assume you were a quart low and then put 7 back in, or do you trust there was some left in there and only put back 6 to mix with the old oil before starting the car, letting it warm up, and recheck the oil level screen? Unless you are careful, you can possibly be putting in too much oil, or not enough, and you won't know until you do this. If it's not enough you'll need to add some but how much? My graphical bar screen doesn't say "You are .2 quarts low'). You could also have overfilled and not know it becuase it won't tell you what's too much on the digital gauge, and that would be worse. I always wondered why my indicator screen has a MAX level, but no room above it for TOO MUCH. Even if just topping off, it's just guessing to know exactly how much to add without constantly getting in, and rechecking the screen
IMO, the extraction method brings just a bit too much uncertainty to save a few minutes of getting under the car, and getting a little dirty, and for peace of mind, by doing a traditional oil change by draining at the plug, I'll know all the oil is out (at least as much as could be without dropping the pan), and I'll know putting in 7 quarts is all I need to do no matter how much I took out, and there will be no guessing. Also, the benefit of getting under there and taking off the panels that hide everything, allows me to see if I have any leaks, or other issues developing that is hard to see with the way they button up engine bays anymore.
First off thanks for watching and I appreciate you leaving such a detail and compelling comments. I don't really like the extracting the oil from the top just because you don't get all the oil out. Yes it's a lot easier much more convenient but I want all the oil out and it's only once every couple of months. The only issues I've had were the head gasket and my water pump. When everything is working perfectly I love the jack. When you have to go get it fixed it is expensive though. And that's why I try to do most of the maintenance myself. If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask. Enjoy the rest of your day.
For a Jag XJL, after an oil change, is there a way to program the computer to remind us when the next oil change is due?
I've looked and I can't find it yet.
On the later model years you can reset the service interval light by opening the hood, driver door, turning the ignition on (key on engine off), and pressing both the brake pedal and accelerator pedal at the same time for roughly 10-15 seconds. Then you can check by going to vehicle info on your cluster menu and scroll down to next service. If you did it correctly it should say service due in ~16,150 miles
Does you manual book recommend that exact kind of oil? Or did you just want to go a cheaper route. Asking because I have the same car as yours just a 2014 and mine recommends castrol edge professional. And they don't sell that anywhere. Only dealerships have it that's why I take mine to a dealership I spend a arm and a leg. I would like to do my own oil but I'm nerves it recommends that for a reason. Just wondering if I could get away with putting what you put in instead of professional.
Rango, The brand matters very little, if the weight and viscosity numbers match up - if they do you are good to go. Consider that the oil cap just references the oil weight - though I'd go full synthetic, not necessarily Mobil-1, of course. Remember you are just going to throw the stuff away in a few months/miles. Good Luck.
in the owners manual it gives you the SAE spec number any oil wth that number on the side is the right oil
I’ve been using Valvoline full synthetic for 8 yrs now. No issues.