Nitro vs Poly - The relic guitar debate explained in 5 minutes
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- Опубліковано 28 сер 2024
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Did you know how much fighting goes on about what's better? Nitrocellulose lacquer (Nitro) and Polyurethane (Poly)? Some guitarists love nitro because it "breathes" and has better tone, and they look cool beat up and reliced. Others think Poly is the way to go.
Thanks for watching, and I hope this video is helpful!
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All thanks and glory to God, Father of Jesus, for everything you’ve given me that makes this channel possible! And heartfelt thanks to my wonderful wife and kids. Love you all!
Can I just say I appreciate the amount of detail and thought you got into a 5 minute video, and that you didn't feel the need to stretch it out to 20 mins
Thank you so much! I know what you are talking about, I have seen plenty of long videos that could’ve been a third the size. Glad you enjoyed it! Take care
He did say that right at the beginning.
There are actually 2 types of "poly", polyester and polyurethane. Polyester is the thick, glossy, resin like, finish you'll see on most lower end guitars. Polyurethane is more durable than nitro but isn't as thick as polyester. It's been used on a lot of Fenders since the 1960's.
Frank Carr you know, I almost started talking about that, but I wasn’t sure how detailed to go. But that’s helpful information. Appreciate you adding it here to the conversation!
And both Poly's feel like ass compared to nitro
Apparently, even the Fullerplast pre-CBS Fender used as a base filler coat, before/under the nitro costs, was some form of poly chemical.
On a neck , I agree. But I'm sticking with poly for the body.
Polyester is what boats are made from
I’ve had both. I like poly better. It doesn’t react to foam on stands. It doesn’t peel off with your fingernail. It doesn’t wear when you sweat. It doesn’t check.
Factories have switched to poly because it is a better quality paint. It’s not because it’s “cheap”. It costs the same thing. It is just more durable.
Certainly doesn’t cost the same, nitrocellulose is much more labour and time intensive.
I want my relicing to be a monument for the hard work and sweat I put in to practicing and playing. To me, buying a reliced guitar is like buying a sports trophy and putting it on your shelf.
I want my guitar to look new, just like my cars 🏎
I don’t care personally, so I tend to prefer poly, since it’s more durable, functionally identical, has zero sonic impact, and is less expensive.
Play the first position of any scale..
Nitro is rad for strats/LPs etc - poly for modern shredders. I have both, nitro lets you age your guitar and give it your own natural relic from playing for years... whereas poly basically doesn't do anything. The relic ability is a bigger selling point to nitro than the 'tone' argument, hence the reason custom shops exist. I bought a strat nitro body off Reverb Daphne blue, best purchase i ever made, warmoth roasted maple neck w/ stainless frets, prewired pickguard bare knuckle pickups, all together it was around $1,000 plays like a $2,500 guitar and the relic starting to show, it is amazing, like my own piece of art.
@Synapse2k- Nitro also cracks , shrinks and yellows when it ages. Nitro is garbage.
Warmoth necks rock
It's criminal you have so few subscribers. Amazing effort and presentation, thank you!
I dinged my new poly finished tele within 2 days of getting it. I was upset
Nice, considerate and concise. Thanks!
Some people love them and some people hate them. People should mind their own business and not put down on each other for different taste and opinions.
Great stuff Steve!
Nice video dude, subscribed. Ive personally never understood the whole new guitar relic thing. I love relic'ed guitars but if they are naturally relic'ed over years of playing etc. Ive had my gibson Sg for many years and is worn from doing many performances.
Awesome, Charlie. Glad you are here! Yep, it’s a crazy debate. I’ve seen people fighting over it on forums like the gear page, Strat talk, and TDPRI. But that’s really cool about your natural relic! Those SG‘s are cool. Thanks for your support ;-)
But your SG is also a nitro finish... so that grew and aged with you as you played her. A poly finish retains its shape, doesn't breathe as well and will look like new even 30 years later.
I own guitars with both finishes. I like both for different reasons.
Bought a used Highway One Telecaster, the previous owner obviously loved and played that guitar, it has a Nitro finish and is worn in all kinds of spots and continues to wear as I play it at home, rehearsals and on stage.
The thing is it's genuine wear from actual playing, I like that honesty.
To each their own.
that red/almost pink tone is beautiful.
Gotta be Fiesta Red
Thank you! I like the Nitro, and the natural road-wear, check on the basses, guitars, painted with that lacquer.
I’m with you, I don’t want to have to worry about dinging my guitar but I don’t like the idea of relic guitars
I bought an '83 JV Squire strat a little while ago, and when I say bought, I really mean rescued. It's a great guitar but it looked like someone had walked all over it with a pair of golf spikes. I'm obsessed with Japanese vintage guitars, but I can't stand poly finishes. The Japanese were using poly on all but the very best guitars they made then, and some of them had thick shells of polyester around them. Anyway, I got drunk one night and sanded the poly finish off of the strat. What remains is a relic job and bare Olympic white paint. It looks and feels great.
Thomas Campbell hahaha, wow; what a story! Sounds like a great Strat you have there. Thanks for sharing 🎸🤙
Nothing like a ‘I was pissed reliced’ guitar
I have a high end guitar with poly urethane finish. Still looks as good as new after 1 year of playing. I like my guitar to look as new for as long as possible.
To each their own, I myself prefer lacquer.
Having owned both for over 4 Decades I find the lacquer superior in many ways.
As far as a factory relic, besides the chipped and scratched/worn appearance many new relic guitars have had the fingerboard edges rolled (sanded to simulate play wear), this greatly improves the feel of the guitar when playing.
I'm all for factory relic, done correctly they are fine playing/feeling instruments.
@HK Guitar -Relics also allow you to buy credibility. " Yea, I've been playing this old thing ( A 2022 relic purchased 1 week ago ) for twenty years. This baby seen a lot of action " Relics are stupid and phony. I'd never buy one for myself.
I taught over 20 years in a music store that sold Fender relics. Someone came in one day and asked I we carried a guitar like the relic without the scratches and aging. I said " Yeah, but well have to charge you $600.00 less."
Major reality check.
As far as relicing, if you're going to own a guitar that looks like it's been played on for 10,000 hours, used for countless gigs etc., and you pick it up and demonstrate that you're a beginner bordering on intermediate...well that could make some people chuckle just a little bit.
Great point! 🙌
Love the fact like other people said already... GREAT explanation in short Time. You got my subscription thanks.
I wish that my polyurethane MIA strat would break in with time like a nitro. The nitro finishes allow the guitars past and story to be written onto it and thats a very special part of the instruments sound and soul. Other than the "cool" factor of all the mumbo jumbo I could care less (though my next Fender will definitely have a nitro finish).
my epiphone les paul has a poly finish and I played it so much that the bridge is turning bronze and the metal on the saddles is smoothing out but the finish still looks brand new.
I love my Fender Highway One guitars. The USA Fenders that are not Nitro are Polyurethane which is thinner and less solid than Polyester mostly found on the Mexican made guitars.
I like the "Faithful in prayer." in the background! 🤲 🙏
Awesome, Peter! Cool you noticed. God bless! 🙏🙌
Thats a high five emoji
I love the faithful in prayer poster, brother✝️
Thank you sir! Appreciate the kind words, brother! God bless ✝️
I’ve always loved the look of an old guitar that has been checked over many years of playing and age from temperature changes and the wood swelling and shrinking overtime I’m ok with intentional relic for looks and I thought about it myself for my own guitar. But it will never change your tone of that guitar like so many people will say it will. It’s all for looks only and if your ok with that do it. But beware it does not change your tone whatsoever. It’s for suckers on that topic and you kill the resale of your guitar.
Nice video. I think Nitro is thinner and nicer. Poly is fine, if not too thick. I bought a poly strat that was dirty and trashed, restored it by cleaning with a damp cloth. Sounds great.
I like my guitar reliced by years of playing.
Good summary. I"m like the slightly worn look, and the nitro finish too. Agreed that by having a slightly worn guitar I'm less fussed about those first dings or scratches.
I hate relic guitars unless its natural.. Nitro I like way more because it ages with u. But custom shop relics r just so dumb to me. U wouldn't buy a brand new skateboard at a shop and ask someone else to skate it for u to make it look used so why would u do that with a guitar lol.
As a skater and surfer, you make a good argument!
I'm a crap skater so a actually bought a complete deck, already snapped in twain.
I like the sound of nitro, except for death metal. Although the difference is nearly imperceivable. Also, don’t like relics particularly, but I would consider one.... but I don’t like the concept. Id rather beat it up myself, lol.
One thing to keep in mind is if you use dye poly will resist fading. With nitro for some colors you will notice fading in just months
Poly does turn yellow over time tho.
it sucks that the new nitro fender guitars only have a nitro top coat and the base coat is still a poly based paint. definitely thicker and doesn't age the same way as an OG would
Not true, fender special runs(FSR) like guitar center or wildwood reissues nitro finishes are poly based but if you get a true high end fender like custom shop or any EJ model or the late vintage reissues from fullerton error til the recent change to the American original series all these instruments have a true nitrocellulose lacquer finish, some like the 2014 60th anniversary 1954 reissue and ej virginia strat have the original type "flash coat" finishes with no sanding after applied. It is easy to tell the difference if you know what you are looking at, true nitro will show grain imperfections that are visible if held in light correctly that is sometimes called "orange peel" by people not knowing it's the grain in the wood coming through due to the extremely thin finish and not much wood sealers or fillers being used before application. All these true nitro instruments will show imperfections in finish or grain if held at angle in light brand new that worsens as the finish evaporates the thinner and retardants over time and shrinks and becomes less flexible, hence checking....
@@purefkingmagic2391 not talking about those special instances obviously
I love the idea of getting a weathered guitar simply for the craftsmanship alone, but I wouldn't buy one until I'd actually beaten up my own guitar.
Me: How much is the shiny new Strat?
Salesperson: That one's a bit more since it's all shiny and new looking.
Me: Oh, how much is that all beat-up looking Strat?
Salesperson: That one's a bit more since it's all beat-up at the factory.
Me: Ok...can I just get some worn out and cracked picks?
Salesperson: ....let me get the manager....
I buy pre-worn, relic'd strings now. I still change them every 2 weeks, but this way they sound like they've been on the guitar for 18 months.
I'm thinking of trying the bass "same strings that were on it when you bought it" set.
I have a 52 telecaster reissue with a thin nitro finish and a american deluxe with poly, for my surprise the poly one is starting to worn out the finish Just like the nitro one and I can see it has a thin coat to it.
Nitrocellulose lacquer and polyurethane are both products that are sprayed on.
Nitro is not a process. Yes, there is a specific process to applying it (which can be very time consuming), just like there is a specific process to applying polyurethane. But again, they are both physical products that can be purchased at any paint store.
I like nitro 🤷🏼♂️ it’s just a mental thing for me but I like to be able to feel the wood grain on a well worn guitar
My main ibanez poly painted guitar which i owned n played for 20 years still looks brand new. So i went n bought a heavy relic
I love the mellow color and age cracking with nitro.
I simply take the best of both worlds: I don't pay extra for nitro lacquer or relic jobs and still don't care if I bump my guitar into pretty much anything.
One thing I really don't like about relic guitars is the conversations you will have with people who have no idea about guitars, asking you where your guitar came from and how old it is and if it's your granddad's guitar or something and then you have to explain that you bought it last year and it always looked like that and people are super disappointed because in their head they already imagined some great story this guitar probably can tell.
👍 valuable info in a nutshell,,, enlightening
G'day, love the video. But I was just wondering do you need to coat of paint or varnish on electric guitar/bass at all? Can you get away with just bare wood and apply may be a wax finish to it once in awhile.
Hey, Thanks, and yes, you could definitely do that. Whatever feels and looks good to you, and with the right neck, set up, pick ups, etc., it could sound incredible
One night at the studio I was crying about the checking and weather shock on my 78'LP Custom's finish and my bandmate said 'Dude, people pay for that shit.' At the time I was clueless as to what he was talking about.
I’ve had both. I’ve currently got both. I could give a crap less. If it sounds good and looks good it’s okay by me.
They do have a different tone,, I've stripped and refinned loads from poly to cellulose,, changes the tone, weight and whole vibe of the guitar🔥
waste of time, just remove the poly under the bridge and you will get the same sound.
@@MrTimeuMorin Nah your wrong, how can changing the weight, look and feel of your guitar be a waste of time? And theres hardly any finish under a strat bridge anyway😂 also what about the neck? you know the other side of the guitar.!!
A beautiful natural relic poly finish is a sign of dedication and hard work and that’s something all guitarists can agree on.
Loving the scripture on the wall.
I think a lot of people who bash relicing for being "fake" do not realise how much we consider standard on guitars today is also faked aging. Mint pickguards originate from how the white pickguards fender used in the early sixties turned green-ish over time, several of Gibsons burst finishes (lemon-,tea-, honeyburst etc) are all based on how their burst finish from the fifties aged and all type of yellowing in clear finishes are also technically "faking" an aged look. I don't see how that is any different from wanting aged nickel or chipped finishes, it is just a look that a lot of us like.
A good guitar is a good guitar. the decision comes down to how you want it to look over time however neck finish often gets overlooked and can make a difference to the feel which to me is a lot more important, but there are no good videos on it.
Nitro lacquer like in the 50's & mid 60's is the way to go , looks better anyway than poly finishes.
I agree! I’m working on getting a nitro Tele 😎👍
So your preference is for the finish that's more brittle and less durable. Also both poly and nitro encase the entire body in a paint shell. And nitro yellows and shrinks with age.
The reason reliced guitars are so popular is that it allows yuppie bluesman street cred that they can buy.
Polyurethane is far superior in every aspect. And if I hear one more guitarist say " nitro sounds better " I think I'll scream. Pure bullshit.
They both potentially can sound good. Feel like the heavier poly ones say 8-8.5lbs sound good. The poly high frequency spike just adds to the big full sound. Conversely, think the lighter ones 6.5-7.75 lbs sound better with nitrocellulose lacquer. Balance for me is a big theme. Single coils are brighter humbuckers, ceramic magnets are brighter than alnico, rosewood warmer than maple. Poly vs nitro is the same. Just a balance of the sum of the parts. If one is too far one way mix in a few parts the other way to bring balance back
hi good sir, im about to purchase a second hand SG standard 2019. And really was thinking about custom paint it. Would you recommend poly for it ? or nitro ? it would affect the tone ? great video btw!
Thanks, and glad you like it! And if I am correct, all Gibsons are nitro. So I would only put nitro on top of nitro. If you have a poly Guitar, pretty much anything you put on top of it could start to chip or flake off, unless you put some sort of primer or sanded it down first. Also, I’m not a pro here. But I’m thinking nitro may be the way to go. You may want to ask on another message board like the gear page. You will get more expert opinions there :-)
@@SteveGuitar thanks a lot for the answer, appreciate it!. Yes, i like the poly finish for the durability and hate the cracks of the nitro in gibsons. But yes, a most educated person in regard of paint jobs would be helpful. Great content btw!
02:00 Dave Simpson video
For new instruments I like something in the range of NOS to light reliching on finishes with a bit patina on nickel plated hardware being okay, no rust. I don't mind thin polyurethane finishes on new bodies, which scratches and shrinks, too. New instruments that are more heavily reliced seem silly to me. I prefer to relic my instruments the long, slow, old fashioned way; like Herbie Flowers's '59/'60 (real, not reissue/CS) Lake Placid blue Fender jazz bass with fiesta red showing through.
If it inspires you to make beautiful music how can it be ’wrong’ or ’fake’?
steve guitar is a great channel name
Thanks Wayne! Glad you like it. See you around here👍😎🎸
This is a vey good video in style, length and content. Here I sit learning something new about guitar body finishes. Can you age a nitro or lacquer finish to craze and check using a home freezer and a hot box? I still haven't learned why some people feel a need to be chauvinistic and parochial over something that is purely a matter of taste. If I'm putting finish on a gitfiddle as a hobby project I want to paint, hand rub, paint, hand rub, etc until the finish looks like a concours winning Auburn Speedster but that's my OCD dancing with my appreciation for a French polished chatoyant lacquered table top. If someone wants to rattle can their axe with one coat then go for it.
axe hackers... lol
I'm not fan of relic guitar but i want to try a relic neck, some people said it' s best neck ever.
Nitro of course!
Even if I get a Gibson Les Paul Custom, I would prefer it to be a Poly finish.
Fact is these days poly is being applied with a different technique that does not change resonance and sustain over nitro. At least with high end guitars. I have a 2021 Eastman e6dtc with a poly finish because Eastman switched over in 2020 to poly from nitro and it resonates and sings with lots of sustain. They mentioned when they made the switch that the technique they use with poly will not make a difference in tone over nitro but will be better for environment and more durable. I can verify their claim lol as many other Eastman owners that have poly coated ones. Bourgeois guitars is using poly and the owner fully explains stuff as well with poly vs nitro and he even favors poly over nitro and if anyone is interested in his reasons why Google it. Me I find poly when applied correctly adds a certain articulate punch to notes and the overall sound strumming that I really like while still having the same sustain and resonance. Just something about poly that does something to add punch and articulation more focused tone. Not so airy and open but more tight and focused. Poly for me any day IF DONE PROPERLY
I've never liked new poly finishes; don't like the feel or the look.Over time , I've learned to build my own to avoid the nitro prices.
In my opinion nitro does not affect the tone, the most resonant electric guitar I own is a poly finished telecaster, my other 2 strats are nitro, one road worn the other brand new. Brand new nitro is a pain in the neck neck in my opinion if you want to keep it shiny and nice. Nitro does not affect the sound, it is a fallacy.
2:11 Yes! It's like keying a truck the day you bring it home.
Poly over nitro...Im not a fan of relic-ing guitars anyways, if I'm gonna pay $3K+ for a high-end guitar, I'd prefer it to look immaculate and like it just rolled off the factory line. Whatever wearing or chipping happens in real life, it is what it is. But that's just me...aside from personal preference of the feel of the guitar, it's doesn't affect it sonically with either finish (not in electrics at least, might see it making a difference in acoustics, willing to entertain different perspectives on that). And, if you're into protecting the environment and all that, poly is much more environmentally friendly than nitro.
What about the old Gibsons guitars? Like olds lp and sg. They appears those “crazying lines” but the painting still intact… whats the secret? Polly paint and nitro varnish finish?
Maybe this is a dumb question, but I'm new to Fender and more an acoustic guitar player, so maybe you can help me? I'm interested in telecasters, but I prefer to see the wood structure through the finish. However, the same models look totally different depending on the photos/videos I watch, sometimes you see the wood structure, sometimes it looks monochromatic and opaque (plastic-like) For example the Tele pro in butterscotch blonde or the Tele performer with the honeyburst, that sometimes looks gorgeous and sometimes like a brown plastic piece. I'm confused about that and couldn't find infos about that anywhere.
Thanks for this video, really concise!
Glad the video was helpful! And you can have transparent finishes in either poly or nitro. That doesn’t matter. I also like seeing the wood grain come through, but less expensive guitars typically are just solid, because I believe it is easier as a paint job, and you can cover up wood that has blemishes or bodies that have four or five joined parts. A good example of a transparent finish on a lower end guitar is the squire classic vibe Telecaster vintage blonde. But it’s still poly. Hope that helps!
There is a typo in your thumbnail. 'Perect'.
The worst thing about nitro is the cure time. I’m building a 1994 Korean squier strat that I stripped and shot in graffiti yellow nitro. Having new pickups and hardware upgrades all ready to go but having to wait for it to cure was too much so I put it together after 2 days. It’s been a week now and although the finish feels hard I still get dizzy and a headache when I play the thing. It needs to sit for a few weeks. I don’t want to know how bad the fumes coming off it are.
Relict is not a verb. I guess people can buy what they want but what’s wrong with making poly look old? Is nitro the only paint allowed to look old?
It’s nice to not worry about getting ‘dings’…unless those ‘dings’ are in undesirable places.
Which one gets yellowish?
How can you avoid that yellowish color? Or how to "clean" it?
From my experience, poly guitars don’t seem to yellow at all after years and years. Maybe if you had a white guitar for a decade or more you might start to notice it. But nitro yellows more and quicker, which is why some people like it ... you can get a blue guitar and it starts to turn a bit green. And that is why fender sells “vintage blonde“ guitars that look very yellow, Because they simulate how a whiter guitar would have yellowed over time. As far as cleaning, poly guitars just need a nice little soft cloth or damp paper towel. They are hard to hurt. Pretty much the same thing for nitro for me.
I'm in the nitro camp and relics are awesome lol trigger is my favorite acoustic
Nitro is cool but it will make keeping your guitar nice harder. I have a Gibson silverburst standard that’s rare and even tho I don’t play it as much it’s still got cracks along the binding, the binding is yellowing and the body is getting dull where I play. Not something I want to happen with a guitar that was $2400 and only from 2008. It’s not that old in my eyes
Don't think there's much in it. Nitro lets wood breath and follows close to grain. But with different playing styles such as plectrum, thumb pick, fingers, amp settings, amp type, pick-up types etc all add much more to the sound of the guitar.
Nitro used to yellow and crack, Poly doesn't. As for relicing. No. Let time and age relic a guitar not false relicing, making something look old when it's new. Case in pont, a bit extreme, but look at Elvis' 1956 customised guitar. Many scratches and markings not done deliberately but with loving dedicated playing in time, they mean something.
Nitro all the way.... It let's the wood resonate and breathe even more and will always nicely age with time, look at the old Gibson's and Fenders! Poly (both types) is more durable and will never break up like a good Nitro. I love that Gibson still offers a version of Nitro on ALL the USA models... and when you get into the custom shop R model's you get the true 50's style nitro. I have some 90's Fender Talon's with a poly tops... and besides the scratching from my buckle or pick marks, they look like they did when I bought them in 92'.
the only debate that matters is about tone. Any of the other issues are subjective
I just started a thread on asking what the best guitar finishes are then watched this.
LexTalinois hahaha... hope it helped
Thanks for watching!
They’re listening & watching
Fender put plastic bondo to fill the grain before painting "nitro" back in the day. The product don't matter it's how thick it is, all in how you spray it. Nitro is also softer than poly and for a given thickness will dampen resonance more. And nitro DOES NOT BREATH, it was designed to seal metal car bodies so they wouldn't rust, nitro seals out air, which causes rust.
It all really depends. They may have done that for solid colors but when you look at many relics they get down to the wood. I think the idea of the finish breathing is that the body can expand and contract and the finish will give way. That’s why you get those spider web cracks on nitro bodies.
Nitro has been deemed as sub-par for finish as it cracks over time due to ongoing evaporation of chemicals, and discoloration. There are much newer methods of clear coating wood that provide better protection and longevity. Some people like when their guitar looks like it wasn't taken care of properly or played REALLY hard. Personally I don't. Would you buy a car that is rusted and falling apart? Shure it looks like crap, but listed to the engine rattle...ain't it purty? lol
@@neilsnow7973 ,I tend to agree. I like my nice looking PRS's One is nitro the others poly, The finish has a small effect on tone, unless it's a quarter inch thick. I can understand owning an old guitar that you've played yrs & yrs and show's wear, but paying extra money to fool yourself? I don't get it.
Poly FTW. I want my guitar to look new, even several years down the line. Also, I don’t care for hunting for special stands.
I am more into nitro because I love seeing the wear and tear I give me guitar by playing it. Polly is to shiny and you can’t see my hard work. lol 😂 I know its dumb but that’s just my opinion.
Poly is really tough, I like nitro though
Which model is that red strat? Its nice!
Hey I know this sounds stupidly paranoid but let's say I get a guitar with a nitro finish, would it be toxic? And if not at the start would it get toxic as it naturally relics
Got scratches and don’t care but the pickguard plastic still on !
If you damage a polyurethane, does that mean that the wood under need to be repaired too or not? Does that also mean that refinish of Polyurethane is more expensive? Thanks
Hey! Good question. I’ve dinged a poly guitar so hard that it chipped a bit part of the poly right off and cut into the wood underneath, leaving splinters. So it is possible to damage the wood. I think most people don’t repair it, or they get some sort of plastic resin to cover and fix it, but it won’t look great...probably like a white patch of new plastic. That’s why some people like nitro: you just keep getting scratches and dings, and you never fix any of them 🤙
Pretty much just clicked to see if you intentionally misspelled your thumbnail as "PERECT". 🙄
🤔
Relic jobs are cool . I love nitro checking even if reliced
I have both poly and nitro guitars. I prefer poly because I like clean guitars and poly will stay that way. I don’t like relic guitars but if that’s your thing great. No hate here.
How long does it take for the nitro to cure?
Nitro cellulose has nothing to do with how the guitar is painted and sanded… poly and nitro are different types of laquer over the paint
Personally, I wouldn't buy a relic guitar, not my thing. I want my new guitar to look new. I also won't worry if scratch it by playing or by accident. Stuff happens. I don't pick my guitars by what kind of paint or finish they sprayed on it at the factory. That isn't a deal breaker for me. I assume all my guitars have poly, except I'm not sure about my 1973 Fender Telecaster.
What is the color name of that red/pink guitar? It's either a very unusual color, or the camera/lighting is altering the shade...
that’s a 50s lacquer fiesta red. Sometimes it looks pinkish and sometimes it looks orange, and other times pure red.😎👍
@@SteveGuitar OK, thanks. Then it must be the camera or monitor altering the color hitting my eyes. Faded Fiesta Red is one of my favorite colors, and yours appears much brighter/more saturated than what I'm familiar with. Very pretty, regardless.
I say relic away if it makes you happy. Realistically, how many guitarists out there are gonna have the long 'on the road' careers required to get the guitar authentically trashed? Not too many in the digital age. Just do it if you think it looks cool, I do.
Doesn't matter on electrics, on acoustics yes to a greater extent.
We use lacquer in the shop where I work to finish some of our furniture. It's done in the spray room and buffed. It's not a time consuming process as some might think, at least not today. We pump out quite a lot of large pieces every day, I have no idea what kind of lacquer it is, not my department. They feel like glass to the touch and your skin doesn't stick to it. I have built several guitars over the years and even refinished one guitar over and over because I would get bored with the look. Each time I did that guitar I used a different method. One time I even went to a body shop and used that method(primer filler, primer surfacer, paint, then clear coat wet sand clear)...and many others have as well, and it came out wicked. I have found no difference in tone or sustain in any of the different finishes. So I don't think it matters. But I do know that I prefer my guitar to look it's best, and I prefer to not have any wood showing. I want it completely protected. Scratches....well it happens, but cracks and chips or deep gashes to the wood...not good. So I avoid Nitro if I can because it's not very durable. That's just me. I treat it like I would a car. They get cleaned regularly and maintained properly. I have a routine. Remember, the clear coat on your car is a poly, unless you are driving an antique. Love your car and cherish your guitar!
How can you tell just by looking? If its listed in the description then that’s one way but how can you tell visually via the naked eye?
I’d be curious to read other people’s opinions. When a nitro guitar is brand new, it usually looks just like poly, at least in my case. It was high gloss, shiny, etc. In time, though, it becomes more of a satin eggshell finish, while the poly guitar stays the exact same high-gloss finish forever.
@@SteveGuitar I’m asking because I have what I believe is an early 90’s or late 80’s Fernandes LE strat and I think its Poly based on what you said here.
I bought it used and it has a few dents in it but they look ok on the finish. I wanted to refinish it but not if its OG Poly lol
I actually clicked on the video to hear how they each fade with time. My strat is a bit yellowed and I was wondering if Nitro strats fade the same way or differently?
@@XxStonedImmaculatexX it probably is poly, because another way to tell is, find out the original price. Nitro guitars typically cost $1000 or well over that. Also, if there is something more than a dent (i.e. a crack), you typically see a thick coating before you get to the wood, whereas nitro paint is a really thin layer over the wood.
I've heard both sides of the story when it comes to the Nitro vs Poly/New vs Relic argument & believe there are valid points for both views. With that being said I'm not personally a big fan of "Relic" guitars but I get why people like them. I just can't see paying a premium for a guitar that has been distressed on purpose just like I can't see buying jeans that have been ripped on purpose. One of the major reasons being is that the guitar, & you, is presenting itself as something it's not. The big reason why REAL relic guitars are so popular is not only the sound, which all the destressing in the world is not going to duplicate, but because every nick, every scratch along with all those worn away areas tell a story. The only "story" a NEW relic guitar is telling is that someone somewhere is good at taking a new guitar with a beautiful finish & making it look like sh#t!