I think this model looks great. I don't see much problem with the back, the striping is well worth it. The stand is a minor issue, though I think it would be worth trying to make a custom stand so it would work well on display. Difficult building processes are often necessary to make great builds, and this makes no exception. An unlisted video would be the best way to solve this. Overall, this looks like an outstanding model, and looks really in line with what Lego might make. Well done!
I think it looks really good Only things I would change is the bridge section and have studs on top of the blue because it just looks more accurate with something covering up the top part of the bridge
I just want to avoid making the bridge too thick if I can. As is two plates is already pretty thick… I might try to flip ‘em upside down somehow, and maybe that will take care of the color issue.
This model is awesome!!!! I personally don't see an issue with the thickness, the stripes look great. I think there is no need for a stand, it is something one can easily build by oneself and be some fun trying to figure out what works best. Having a more complicated way to put the 4 main parts together is a nice challenge one doesn't necessarily get from a Lego product, but shouldn't be a turnoff for mocs. The video solution is definitely a good idea. I think you should upload the instructions even if you are not 100% satisfied with the model.
Personally, the only serious issue I see is the griebling, but as you said you will manage it. The two pairs of side cannons in the fore-part are too big, maybe those wrench-like parts would be more in proportion. The striping is worth the compromise with the thickness, but maybe on the back-edge you can return to plating and make it seem thin, although that's hard to make. From the front it's not a problem. Putting the parts together has to be done once, so it's no big deal. Other than that we love lego, so such a challenge is just part of the experience. I plan to purchase all 3 of your in-scale ships after this one will come out.
This is an absolutely gorgeous model, you’re overthinking it. At first I didn’t even realize it was LEGO. Probably better than whatever LEGO themselves can come up with at this scale
My main issues would probably be the front stripe being a bit messy with exposed studs and stepped design. It definitely catches my attention the most for those reasons, although I can't seem to think of any other way to achieve that subtle angle without being stepped. Also I find the inconsistency in design for the hull panels a bit jarring, more specifically the front panels having studs on top while the back ones use snot techniques. I personally think sticking to just one of those designs would be best. I do think I'm being a bit overly critical since those are quite difficult problems to solve. Otherwise, it is a really impressive model .
Some of the original designs in Studio I was working on used all sorts of hinge plates to make the subtle taper smoother but every single one of them was the absolute worst for stability and the step just feels like the only way now. I do have an idea on how to possibly get rid of some of those studs, I’ll see what I can do on that front.
I think it looks great! For the stand, what if you used several 2x2 round tiles w/ a hole in the center to invert the studs/anti-studs? It wouldn't have even edges, but the black color would help mask it.
Overall looks great! I’m so glad you went with the film variant for the Venator. I’d like to see how it does with the display stand used for all other MIDI star ship collection ships. Man, so much detail is immaculate on it!
Honestly man, I see no problems. This looks insanely accurate for a build this scale and I really can’t see anything else that could be changed. It’s already great. But I would maybe just try to hide some of the studs on the front stripe, but otherwise awesome job!
Firstly, I want to say it looks great. The underside in particular is a huge highlight to me; I felt the official super ISD was super lame to have its underbelly have such disparate quality to the side up view, but yours perfectly matches. But I do think a compromise needs to be made for the stripes. I really don’t feel that an accurate number of stripes is near as important as the build’s cohesiveness, which they threaten. The back is just a bit too blocky. I would compromise on the number of stripes to have better shaping. The engines are a notable detail on Star Wars capital ships, and having them housed in a pretty backside is really important imo
Personally I don't have any problems with the engines, of course they would look better if they were the same build as the other model which you said that you were going to fix, but for the problem with the stand I believe that I have a solution! Extend the front part of the base where the Venator sits on top (about 8 studs more) and then add a 2x4 jumper plates at the first and the last 2x4 spaces. After that replace the dark red tiles on the bottom of the ship that are where the jumpers would attach to the model if there were anti-studs with 2 circular tiles with a hole in them. Now the Venator can hold on to the base and can also be easily removed! If I didn't explain my sollution that great, I'm sorry, it worked better in my head. Now, for the fact that it is hard to assemble the kit, I don't know man, as long as it works I guess...
The only issue with the striping technique on the back fins is that the 1x2 slopes don't create a smooth angle. It just looks a little janky. From my perspective the shape is more important than the stripes. Other than that it looks very well proportioned, though I'm not sure about the 2 layers of wedge plates on the top side, I'd probably copy the acclamator technique of a dark grey wedge plate under the top layer, it might end up making it easier to build with instructions but it's not necessary at all. The studs on the red stripe also look a little out of place. Not sure if that makes sense but those are my only nitpicks. I think it's a perfect scale for a great looking ventaor!
stand issue: Use those 2x2 round tiles with the open stud to attach to some 2x2 jumper plates. For the front leaning forward, do what they did in the falcon and design the stand to sit over the centre of gravity
I’d miss having a stand to have it displayed along with the other ships in the starship collection as well as your other Mocs, that said I don’t think that should stop you from publishing it. The video solution is a good idea!
The attatchment issue isnt a turn off, and i think including the vid is great, I have a custom persuader class tank droid which is a pain to assemble, but I didnt mind putting it together
So, couple of questions 1.) For attaching it to the stand, is there any way you could add peices with the technic axle cut out, and use an axle to attach it to the stand 2.) I've only recently gotten into MOCs, and haven't messed with rebrickable, so how do you figure out what parts you need, and is there a way to easily construct or get a list of parts on bricklink But yeah, I've thought about trying to do something like this, but I don't think I can top, and looking forward to the finished product
Even tho we definitely need a midi scale Venator and this model looks great, i don't know if this is the best way to do it. It looks amazing, but it isn't very sturdy and does have some issues with its exterior. I am not a MOC builder, but i think the ship could use a bit of a redesign in its centre/skeleton to make the attachments stronger. I do really want a midi Venator and think you should continue to disign it.
There are seven attachment points between either top and bottom panel and the skeleton, it’s actually fairly sturdy (as long as you don’t throw it at a wall), just a pain to get together.
I think i would prefer the centre being build out of mainly basic system bricks construction and some technic to keep it together. You than can still use ball joints to connect the paneling at an angle. I'm not sure how you would get the greebling on the sides tho.
As someone who has spent hundreds of hours recreating real life and sci fi vehicles in Minecraft (a lot bigger than those displayed on my channel) you often have to weigh between whether you want to prioritize accuracy or color/design aesthetics. I would honestly say, try to make a version on studio that has the imperial paint scheme so you don’t have to worry about gimping the build for colored stripes. I’d rather buy something well put together and accurate shape wise than something flimsy and janky with the correct amount of stripes. Regardless I am looking forward to this venator to accompany the acclamator I’ve pre-ordered.
It’s actually fairly sturdy. That is part of why it took so stupidly long to get this far-I was trying EVERYTHING under the sun to make it work. Now there are like seven attachment points between between the panels and the skeleton (four of them being the stronger Mixel joints) and I’ve got it to a point where I actually have fun swooshing it around as opposed to watching it crumble in my hands… 😂
Looks fine to me honestly. Considering how you did the stripes that is more preferable to me than the engines being out of size. I already have your other two and I need this one to compliment them. I say release it when you are as happy as possible with it. I know I will buy and display it. Like you said only from the single vision angle do you see it and honestly if you hadn't pointed it out I would probably never noticed it. Also I would be interested in a video going through the steps of designing a moc as well. Not that I ever could or would design anything but I'm very interested in the process of it
The model is looking very good sadly compromises have to be made when making a model as accurate as possible. I wish I could give more suggestions, but I would need to have the model in hand. I think you should do is release this model, and I am sure people are going to work with it and they’ll make some adjustments that they can notify you about the model in the future.
I would, it’s just that really the only thing the Acclamator and the Venator have in common is their aesthetics. The Acclamator is a wildly different shape-and not just in terms of a top-down view. I don’t think that it’s classified as a Star Destroyer, honestly. I’m not sure how well any building techniques could translate to a Venator all that well. I do want to match the aesthetics a bit better at the very least.
IMO the look of it is very good. HOWEVER: in order for me to consider buying a MOC / its instructions, I have to know that it's going to be stable. I need to be able to touch and (ideally) swoosh the model without it falling apart. The best MOCs strike a perfect balance between detailed and stable. I don't have a use for the most screen-accurate Lego ship model ever if it is super frustrating to build and its components can't stay together. I'd been looking for years and years for a perfect X-Wing MOC, but it was only his year I found one which was 1) more screen-accurate than Lego's X-Wings 2) stable AND 3) had no gap between the wings when they were closed.
none of this is an attack on you or your MOC skills obviously! I know from experience that Star Destroyers are THE most annoying and difficult-to-capture ships when it comes to MOCs
Stability is also the most thing important for me-that’s the biggest reason this MOC has been taking so long… if I can’t swoosh it then I don’t like it. That’s also why I throw in a handling section into every MOC video I do-like the time I smacked the Munificent on the floor to prove it was stable. 😆
It's definitely good. The esthetics far outweigh the flaws of it, the only deal breaker for me would be strength I can't buy a moc knowing I have to handle it with care I just want to pick it up put it down without any pieces falling off, if that's not the case would buy instructions even with its flaws.
A couple of the wedge plates on the edges are still prone to fall off, which I can (and will) be fixing with some inverted round tiles. Other than that, the main body itself has proven to be fairly stable.
Honestly my opinion would be redoing the bottom to be more like the Invisible Hand front that does a steppe like build to 1 simplify the build, and 2 make it easier to attach to the base. It’s likely a compromise you’d have to make
I think this model looks great. I don't see much problem with the back, the striping is well worth it. The stand is a minor issue, though I think it would be worth trying to make a custom stand so it would work well on display. Difficult building processes are often necessary to make great builds, and this makes no exception. An unlisted video would be the best way to solve this.
Overall, this looks like an outstanding model, and looks really in line with what Lego might make. Well done!
I think it looks really good Only things I would change is the bridge section and have studs on top of the blue because it just looks more accurate with something covering up the top part of the bridge
I just want to avoid making the bridge too thick if I can. As is two plates is already pretty thick… I might try to flip ‘em upside down somehow, and maybe that will take care of the color issue.
This model is awesome!!!!
I personally don't see an issue with the thickness, the stripes look great.
I think there is no need for a stand, it is something one can easily build by oneself and be some fun trying to figure out what works best.
Having a more complicated way to put the 4 main parts together is a nice challenge one doesn't necessarily get from a Lego product, but shouldn't be a turnoff for mocs.
The video solution is definitely a good idea.
I think you should upload the instructions even if you are not 100% satisfied with the model.
Personally, the only serious issue I see is the griebling, but as you said you will manage it. The two pairs of side cannons in the fore-part are too big, maybe those wrench-like parts would be more in proportion.
The striping is worth the compromise with the thickness, but maybe on the back-edge you can return to plating and make it seem thin, although that's hard to make. From the front it's not a problem.
Putting the parts together has to be done once, so it's no big deal. Other than that we love lego, so such a challenge is just part of the experience.
I plan to purchase all 3 of your in-scale ships after this one will come out.
The munificent and requcent are great additions to the main line and are worth getting on their own to me. I love them since I built them
This is an absolutely gorgeous model, you’re overthinking it. At first I didn’t even realize it was LEGO. Probably better than whatever LEGO themselves can come up with at this scale
My main issues would probably be the front stripe being a bit messy with exposed studs and stepped design. It definitely catches my attention the most for those reasons, although I can't seem to think of any other way to achieve that subtle angle without being stepped. Also I find the inconsistency in design for the hull panels a bit jarring, more specifically the front panels having studs on top while the back ones use snot techniques. I personally think sticking to just one of those designs would be best. I do think I'm being a bit overly critical since those are quite difficult problems to solve. Otherwise, it is a really impressive model .
Some of the original designs in Studio I was working on used all sorts of hinge plates to make the subtle taper smoother but every single one of them was the absolute worst for stability and the step just feels like the only way now. I do have an idea on how to possibly get rid of some of those studs, I’ll see what I can do on that front.
I think it looks great! For the stand, what if you used several 2x2 round tiles w/ a hole in the center to invert the studs/anti-studs? It wouldn't have even edges, but the black color would help mask it.
Overall looks great! I’m so glad you went with the film variant for the Venator. I’d like to see how it does with the display stand used for all other MIDI star ship collection ships.
Man, so much detail is immaculate on it!
Honestly man, I see no problems. This looks insanely accurate for a build this scale and I really can’t see anything else that could be changed. It’s already great. But I would maybe just try to hide some of the studs on the front stripe, but otherwise awesome job!
I think it's cool
Firstly, I want to say it looks great. The underside in particular is a huge highlight to me; I felt the official super ISD was super lame to have its underbelly have such disparate quality to the side up view, but yours perfectly matches.
But I do think a compromise needs to be made for the stripes. I really don’t feel that an accurate number of stripes is near as important as the build’s cohesiveness, which they threaten. The back is just a bit too blocky. I would compromise on the number of stripes to have better shaping. The engines are a notable detail on Star Wars capital ships, and having them housed in a pretty backside is really important imo
Personally I don't have any problems with the engines, of course they would look better if they were the same build as the other model which you said that you were going to fix, but for the problem with the stand I believe that I have a solution! Extend the front part of the base where the Venator sits on top (about 8 studs more) and then add a 2x4 jumper plates at the first and the last 2x4 spaces. After that replace the dark red tiles on the bottom of the ship that are where the jumpers would attach to the model if there were anti-studs with 2 circular tiles with a hole in them. Now the Venator can hold on to the base and can also be easily removed! If I didn't explain my sollution that great, I'm sorry, it worked better in my head. Now, for the fact that it is hard to assemble the kit, I don't know man, as long as it works I guess...
The only issue with the striping technique on the back fins is that the 1x2 slopes don't create a smooth angle. It just looks a little janky. From my perspective the shape is more important than the stripes.
Other than that it looks very well proportioned, though I'm not sure about the 2 layers of wedge plates on the top side, I'd probably copy the acclamator technique of a dark grey wedge plate under the top layer, it might end up making it easier to build with instructions but it's not necessary at all. The studs on the red stripe also look a little out of place.
Not sure if that makes sense but those are my only nitpicks. I think it's a perfect scale for a great looking ventaor!
stand issue: Use those 2x2 round tiles with the open stud to attach to some 2x2 jumper plates. For the front leaning forward, do what they did in the falcon and design the stand to sit over the centre of gravity
I think you should try an all grey version, just to see how it could differ or improve without having to incorporate the red stripes into the build
might build a couple of those for a midi-scale battle of coruscant
I’d miss having a stand to have it displayed along with the other ships in the starship collection as well as your other Mocs, that said I don’t think that should stop you from publishing it.
The video solution is a good idea!
The attatchment issue isnt a turn off, and i think including the vid is great, I have a custom persuader class tank droid which is a pain to assemble, but I didnt mind putting it together
So, couple of questions
1.) For attaching it to the stand, is there any way you could add peices with the technic axle cut out, and use an axle to attach it to the stand
2.) I've only recently gotten into MOCs, and haven't messed with rebrickable, so how do you figure out what parts you need, and is there a way to easily construct or get a list of parts on bricklink
But yeah, I've thought about trying to do something like this, but I don't think I can top, and looking forward to the finished product
When you but the instructions to a MOC on Rebrickable it includes a parts list that you can transfer over to BrickLink with the click of a button.
Engines look good and whole build is great
Even tho we definitely need a midi scale Venator and this model looks great, i don't know if this is the best way to do it. It looks amazing, but it isn't very sturdy and does have some issues with its exterior.
I am not a MOC builder, but i think the ship could use a bit of a redesign in its centre/skeleton to make the attachments stronger.
I do really want a midi Venator and think you should continue to disign it.
There are seven attachment points between either top and bottom panel and the skeleton, it’s actually fairly sturdy (as long as you don’t throw it at a wall), just a pain to get together.
I think i would prefer the centre being build out of mainly basic system bricks construction and some technic to keep it together. You than can still use ball joints to connect the paneling at an angle. I'm not sure how you would get the greebling on the sides tho.
As someone who has spent hundreds of hours recreating real life and sci fi vehicles in Minecraft (a lot bigger than those displayed on my channel) you often have to weigh between whether you want to prioritize accuracy or color/design aesthetics. I would honestly say, try to make a version on studio that has the imperial paint scheme so you don’t have to worry about gimping the build for colored stripes. I’d rather buy something well put together and accurate shape wise than something flimsy and janky with the correct amount of stripes. Regardless I am looking forward to this venator to accompany the acclamator I’ve pre-ordered.
It’s actually fairly sturdy. That is part of why it took so stupidly long to get this far-I was trying EVERYTHING under the sun to make it work. Now there are like seven attachment points between between the panels and the skeleton (four of them being the stronger Mixel joints) and I’ve got it to a point where I actually have fun swooshing it around as opposed to watching it crumble in my hands… 😂
Looks fine to me honestly. Considering how you did the stripes that is more preferable to me than the engines being out of size. I already have your other two and I need this one to compliment them. I say release it when you are as happy as possible with it. I know I will buy and display it. Like you said only from the single vision angle do you see it and honestly if you hadn't pointed it out I would probably never noticed it. Also I would be interested in a video going through the steps of designing a moc as well. Not that I ever could or would design anything but I'm very interested in the process of it
I’ve been thinking it might be fun to do a livestream one of these days where I just spend an hour working on a MOC in Studio.
@@crazydog1750 That'd be cool!
@@crazydog1750 I would be interested in that!
Definitely upload this, just address the problems in the rebrickable description
I’d love to see you design a helldivers super destroyer and an imperial cargo ship that are also in scale with these
The model is looking very good sadly compromises have to be made when making a model as accurate as possible. I wish I could give more suggestions, but I would need to have the model in hand. I think you should do is release this model, and I am sure people are going to work with it and they’ll make some adjustments that they can notify you about the model in the future.
I think that you can probably integrate a technic rod in the stand to reinforce it
Or another Idea is you can wait until the Acclimator is released and the set will probably give you some design ideas for the Venator.
I would, it’s just that really the only thing the Acclamator and the Venator have in common is their aesthetics. The Acclamator is a wildly different shape-and not just in terms of a top-down view. I don’t think that it’s classified as a Star Destroyer, honestly. I’m not sure how well any building techniques could translate to a Venator all that well. I do want to match the aesthetics a bit better at the very least.
@ very good points. If I come up with other ideas I’ll let you know.
Question what do you think of brick master harri?
IMO the look of it is very good. HOWEVER: in order for me to consider buying a MOC / its instructions, I have to know that it's going to be stable. I need to be able to touch and (ideally) swoosh the model without it falling apart. The best MOCs strike a perfect balance between detailed and stable. I don't have a use for the most screen-accurate Lego ship model ever if it is super frustrating to build and its components can't stay together.
I'd been looking for years and years for a perfect X-Wing MOC, but it was only his year I found one which was 1) more screen-accurate than Lego's X-Wings 2) stable AND 3) had no gap between the wings when they were closed.
none of this is an attack on you or your MOC skills obviously! I know from experience that Star Destroyers are THE most annoying and difficult-to-capture ships when it comes to MOCs
Stability is also the most thing important for me-that’s the biggest reason this MOC has been taking so long… if I can’t swoosh it then I don’t like it. That’s also why I throw in a handling section into every MOC video I do-like the time I smacked the Munificent on the floor to prove it was stable. 😆
It's definitely good. The esthetics far outweigh the flaws of it, the only deal breaker for me would be strength I can't buy a moc knowing I have to handle it with care I just want to pick it up put it down without any pieces falling off, if that's not the case would buy instructions even with its flaws.
A couple of the wedge plates on the edges are still prone to fall off, which I can (and will) be fixing with some inverted round tiles. Other than that, the main body itself has proven to be fairly stable.
It’s perfect 👌
Now make a CR90, I won’t ask again-
Eh, LEGO already did that, don’t think I could one-up the guys in Billund.
@ lol, aight, maybe a Hammerhead?
@ Maybe… I have some other stuff I wanna get done first, though. But we’ll see.
@ aight, cya ladder I guess
I would gladly buy it
Nah, looks good.
I want to see you smash it.
Brige is to tall, lower it down by one stud
Honestly my opinion would be redoing the bottom to be more like the Invisible Hand front that does a steppe like build to 1 simplify the build, and 2 make it easier to attach to the base. It’s likely a compromise you’d have to make