THIS IS HOW I FIXED MINE, IN THE CASE OF.... "I CAN'T START MY GENERATOR" It's has been two years since last time it was running, so I started by checking oil level full at gen dipstick (it won't start if low oil because of sensors) then I checked gasoline more than 1\4 tank in the RV (also safety sensors), sparkplug checked for good spark, also checked the manual reset circuit braker ( to be ON) at front motorhome engine compartment for 12v current to the generator to be able to start it, also cleaned the carburetor and even installed new one but same situation, then checked wires and found some has been chewed like gum by rats at the back of starting switch generator panel so I replaced them, at this time the generator started but stay running only by keep pushing the switch on all the time, so then finally I knew it was internal electrical problem from the engine itself, so I took the generator out from my RV to work in my garage, (I did this by myself with some tools and old Mayan tricks ) lol, it's really heavy for one person. I disassemble the unit at my garage and started by removing the cover, then the cooling fan or flywheel unit (it's 2 items in one) until finally I was at the gen rotor and brushes assembly area and this is what I found: one more wire chewed by filthy rats plus the stinky rat nest in the middle of the generator motor coil, I fixed the wire and sanded the commutator copper contacts where the brushes are sitting becouse they were real duty with old urine from the rats, and of course I got rid off the stinky nest, lol!!! Then I assembled everything back together and... bingo it's runing like a champion!!! For this project materials involved was about $60.00 including an aftermarket new carburetor and an harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller (available at any auto parts for $25.00) to pull the aluminum fan out and (flywheel). Just picture this: (Any gasoline engine run smooth if gasoline and DC current aren't interrupted) so following this important principle you'll always find the problem to be fixed. Also if you have a onan microlite 4000 like mine, don't run it for more than a minute without the cover because you'll cook the engine real fast, also keep the eye on the aluminium fan and your fingers after cranking it in case you missing one or two members...just kidding, lol!!! After testing the gen then I did put the air cooling assembly back and the rest of components including the cover, now it's ready to be installed at my RV. Once the gen was installed back at my motorhome I started it to be tested for electric power but not before flipping the electric switch (on) at the gen starting control panel (sometimes hiding under or around the panel) to transfer power to my RV GFCI main outlet and electric panel as well, my motorhome it's equipped with GFCI so I reset it and tested for green led light indicating power is ready at my main breakers panel, so I turned my main breaker (on) along the others ones but no power was present at my breaker main switch (faulty main braker) so I flipped it many times, sometimes you can make it work again, mine did work, lol!!! I'm happy because everything works now including the ref for cold drinks and AC for this crazy summer, lol! Later I'll buy me a new main braker, for now this is a resurrected generator story that needed to be shared. If this can help eaven one person to save time and $$$ it'll make me more happy, thanks for reading!!!
It’s been a while, but I’m pretty sure for my idle screw I started with it just barely making contact with the throttle. And then I adjusted it using frequency and voltage. While it’s running, you use a meter to check the frequency and set it to 60 HZ when it is idling. Also make sure you push the throttle against the screw while you are adjusting it and taking readings, since the governor will usually keep it away from it. As for the bowl adjustment, I believe I started with 2 and half turns out and went from there. If you have any more questions just feel free to let me know, and good luck with your Genset!
So while I do have the original “new carb” part number, I HIGHLY do not recommend buying one, as all mine did after doing this was spiral downword until I eventually removed the cheap carb, and rebuilt the original Nikki carb that it came with. As long as your original carb is intact, I recommend rebuilding it and getting new gaskets for it, as that will give you the best possible results. And I even made a video on this channel on how to completely rebuild and clean this exact original carburetor that is on this model! So check it out if you need guidance on how to completely rebuild the carb. Anyhow, if you have any further questions, just feel free to let me know, and good luck on your rebuild!
I’m not sure exactly how much horse power the Cummins engine produces. The generator itself is rated at 6500 watts. With two plugs I would say it is at least 20 HP, but the exact number I do not know.
This video was intended to ask questions on what to do with those adjustments, I originally uploaded these videos to my forum on SmokStak, which detailed everything on how I repaired my genset. Now lucky for you, I do have a detailed choke adjustment video, you can find it on my channel, and it should help you adjust your choke properly. As for the carb, the only main adjustment you will need is the screw at the bottom of the bowl, and I have mine currently 2 turns out right now if I remember properly. Anyhow, if you have any questions about adjusting the Choke and carb, post them here and I can help you out!
THIS IS HOW I FIXED MINE, IN THE CASE OF....
"I CAN'T START MY GENERATOR"
It's has been two years since last time it was running, so I started by checking oil level full at gen dipstick (it won't start if low oil because of sensors) then I checked gasoline more than 1\4 tank in the RV (also safety sensors), sparkplug checked for good spark, also checked the manual reset circuit braker ( to be ON) at front motorhome engine compartment for 12v current to the generator to be able to start it, also cleaned the carburetor and even installed new one but same situation, then checked wires and found some has been chewed like gum by rats at the back of starting switch generator panel so I replaced them, at this time the generator started but stay running only by keep pushing the switch on all the time, so then finally I knew it was internal electrical problem from the engine itself, so I took the generator out from my RV to work in my garage, (I did this by myself with some tools and old Mayan tricks ) lol, it's really heavy for one person.
I disassemble the unit at my garage and started by removing the cover, then the cooling fan or flywheel unit (it's 2 items in one) until finally I was at the gen rotor and brushes assembly area and this is what I found: one more wire chewed by filthy rats plus the stinky rat nest in the middle of the generator motor coil, I fixed the wire and sanded the commutator copper contacts where the brushes are sitting becouse they were real duty with old urine from the rats, and of course I got rid off the stinky nest, lol!!!
Then I assembled everything back together and... bingo it's runing like a champion!!!
For this project materials involved was about $60.00 including an aftermarket new carburetor and an harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller (available at any auto parts for $25.00) to pull the aluminum fan out and (flywheel).
Just picture this: (Any gasoline engine run smooth if gasoline and DC current aren't interrupted) so following this important principle you'll always find the problem to be fixed.
Also if you have a onan microlite 4000 like mine, don't run it for more than a minute without the cover because you'll cook the engine real fast, also keep the eye on the aluminium fan and your fingers after cranking it in case you missing one or two members...just kidding, lol!!!
After testing the gen then I did put the air cooling assembly back and the rest of components including the cover, now it's ready to be installed at my RV.
Once the gen was installed back at my motorhome I started it to be tested for electric power but not before flipping the electric switch (on) at the gen starting control panel (sometimes hiding under or around the panel) to transfer power to my RV GFCI main outlet and electric panel as well, my motorhome it's equipped with GFCI so I reset it and tested for green led light indicating power is ready at my main breakers panel, so I turned my main breaker (on) along the others ones but no power was present at my breaker main switch (faulty main braker) so I flipped it many times, sometimes you can make it work again, mine did work, lol!!!
I'm happy because everything works now including the ref for cold drinks and AC for this crazy summer, lol! Later I'll buy me a new main braker, for now this is a resurrected generator story that needed to be shared.
If this can help eaven one person to save time and $$$ it'll make me more happy, thanks for reading!!!
What were you initial idle sscrew settings and float settings? How many turns out before you made final adjustments?
It’s been a while, but I’m pretty sure for my idle screw I started with it just barely making contact with the throttle. And then I adjusted it using frequency and voltage. While it’s running, you use a meter to check the frequency and set it to 60 HZ when it is idling. Also make sure you push the throttle against the screw while you are adjusting it and taking readings, since the governor will usually keep it away from it.
As for the bowl adjustment, I believe I started with 2 and half turns out and went from there.
If you have any more questions just feel free to let me know, and good luck with your Genset!
Do you have the new carburator part number
So while I do have the original “new carb” part number, I HIGHLY do not recommend buying one, as all mine did after doing this was spiral downword until I eventually removed the cheap carb, and rebuilt the original Nikki carb that it came with. As long as your original carb is intact, I recommend rebuilding it and getting new gaskets for it, as that will give you the best possible results. And I even made a video on this channel on how to completely rebuild and clean this exact original carburetor that is on this model! So check it out if you need guidance on how to completely rebuild the carb. Anyhow, if you have any further questions, just feel free to let me know, and good luck on your rebuild!
Quantos HP?
I’m not sure exactly how much horse power the Cummins engine produces. The generator itself is rated at 6500 watts. With two plugs I would say it is at least 20 HP, but the exact number I do not know.
I vote for vacuum leak
Yeah, you would be right. I ended up replacing that small little vacuum line, and the vacuum powered choke puller, and it works like a charm now!
You made no adjustments at all
This video was intended to ask questions on what to do with those adjustments, I originally uploaded these videos to my forum on SmokStak, which detailed everything on how I repaired my genset. Now lucky for you, I do have a detailed choke adjustment video, you can find it on my channel, and it should help you adjust your choke properly. As for the carb, the only main adjustment you will need is the screw at the bottom of the bowl, and I have mine currently 2 turns out right now if I remember properly. Anyhow, if you have any questions about adjusting the Choke and carb, post them here and I can help you out!
Sir do you have the part number for the new carburator