If you like the video please like and subscribe! Looking to scrounge up subscribers to spread helpful advice to and also gain some knowledge from them! Enjoy learning from my videos as much as I try to pass knowledge :)
Brake reservoir looked pretty low, even after front brake pads being replaced. That maybe because the rear brake drum piston was leaking. Makes sense to me . Brake fluid went somewhere. Need to take off both rear drums and inspect.
It is for safety. U should pumps the brakes several times when u are done ( after completely install the brake pads). Last time after installed them I forgot to press the brake several times almost caused an accident. Unfortunately no one was standing in front my car.
Reminds me of when I changed my first break pads. Me and my brother forgot to pump the breaks. I started up the car and started goin. Brakes wouldn't work and ran it into the neighbors car 😂😭
thank you for what you did show AND I really wished we saw you actually put the caliper housing back on and a few other steps you either didn't shoot or cut out. It's really helpful for us clueless mechanics to see every little thing you do.
Ahh this will be noted for future brake videos I make! Thanks for the constructive feedback and taking the time to comment, really appreciate it. Hope your install went relatively smooth
Great job explaining front brakes replacement. Also I regrease the caliper push pins. Sometimes they dry out from the dust and weather conditions. Just pop them out and apply a little grease and push back in. Very simple.
@@claytondebroux6827 - 'brake grease' is, at this point in time, a silicone compound. Such as Sil-Glyde, as I use. So, you _grease_ the pins. You don't want to use a silicone oil.
Yo my guy, found this video after realizing I need to replace my brake pads here 2 am in the bay. This is very helpful! I'll be watching your rotor replacement next..(hopefully you made a video :D)
For sure, glad this video provided the information you needed. With the right tips, this job is not too bad. Thanks for taking the time to share your feedback!
Thanks for the video bro. I started on this yesterday on my 2013 Corolla, but it took so much time to get the bolts and rotors unstuck that it was getting dark and I had to stop (no garage). Gonna grab a C clamp like the one you have before I get back to it anyway cause I don’t think I have one. Hopefully the hardest part is over 😆🤞🏻
@@EngineeredMojo it did! Got the C clamp and it worked great. Had no issues with anything else and the car stops on a dime with no more wobbling when slowing down from higher speeds.
Now that I re-watch the video, I sure didn't show that step. I ended up putting them in, but had forgotten on initial brake pad seating. Luckily I hadn't bolted down the caliper yet! New hardware is not bad putting back in, I just made sure to take off one at a time; therefor I wouldn't confuse myself when reinstalling the new pieces. Thanks for catching that for future viewers!
I need help I finally got my 2010 Toyota Corolla le tire off now I'm trying my hardest to get the caliper disconnected but 14 mm is too big for the bolt
Cool technician mechanic video..lol breaking on hope helpful video....... is the beerings easy to replace is full hub beerings assemply has to be change
Wheel bearings replacement is not too hard. Just a bit extra work beyond replacing say a brake caliper without the brake bleeding part. You'll need to either find a shop to press your wheel bearing out and press new one in or get a loaner tool from a auto car store to remove. Some people use a hammer and socket about same size as bearing to knock it out, but that's a bit more work for sure. Hope that helps and thanks for taking the time to comment!
Hey brother I have 2013 corolla myself. Any idea how to replace passenger side, side mirror? Mine popped off and hanging while driving. Any tips will be helpful.
@Chris G like just the glass piece? I'm sure you could but would probably have to find that piece from a junkyard. Haven't seen the mirror sold separately
The brake cleaner is used to for several jobs, but you should clean off the new rotors as they come with a film coating to prevent rusting. Anyhow glad to help and pay in forward too.
I have also used the C-Clamp while the caliper is still mounted squeezing the piston while still installed, before removing the pads and caliper. It ensures the caliper will remove easier.
Only if you open the lines and introduce air into the system, which you should not have to do for a brake pad change 😀. You can change your brake fluid at the regular routine interval recommended by Toyota
There is no reason to bleed the brakes for a brake pad change. Only reason to bleed brakes is when you open the brake line to the air (bleeder valve, loosen brake line, opening reservoir is okay because you haven't interrupted the direct brake line). Hope that helps!
No need to bleed the brakes on a brake pad change thankfully! Never bleed your brakes an a brake pad change, but if you ever happen to need to bleed your brakes for a different reason type into UA-cam search bar "self bleed brakes engineered mojo" and my very popular video will pop up :)
Important to note the brake squeak spray is to coat the other side of the brake pads which contact the rotor/disc. There is no moving part on the back of the pads which you sprayed. But good vid. Cheers 😁
I just saw this video and dude I have been wanting to do it myself to save some money and be able to make money as well lol but are these steps for all 4 wheels
I like and respect the hustle! This process applies to all wheels with disk brakes. If the rear wheels have drum brakes the process is different, but still relatively simple. As soon as I have a car with drum brakes wear out, I plan to make a video
Engineered Mojo sounds good bro much respect for the quick reply much love and you got my sub and likes lol 😝 God bless man and I’ll keep using your vids to help me so you got my support!!!!!!!!!!
Fronts are easy. Rear?? My dream is someone post a video on how to change the rear disc pads of the same generation corolla. can't get the cylinders to turn down. Just spin and spin without retracting. Can't get the caliper back on the rears.
I used a ceramic brake pad if I remember correctly which is usually mid or top grade brake pad. Usually ceramic brakes provide less brake dust and premature squeal. They are only about 10 to 15 dollars more than cheap brakes. Worth the extra in my opinion, hope this helps!
You shouldn't need to bleed your brakes of air unless you opened your brake line for another unrelated fix. But if you did, you'll need to bleed at minimum the wheel location which you opened the line. Possibly all 4 wheels if more air got in. It's not hard to self bleed and it's even relatively affordable to get it done at a shop, typically less than 100 dollars. I'd search on youtube for a brake bleed video if you did open the lines and need to bleed air from your system.
Ah.....I think you just used the same disks that has the rough surface on the inside, without grinding to be smooth, so, my estimation is that it works, but, that brake pad had much more wear at the beginning, and maybe, the braking became wobbly because the surface is not even on that surface. The brake disks has to be smooth to avoid wear down the brake pads. Thank you for the video. Pablo.
That's a good point! If I remember correctly these rotors had to get resurfaced. There was just enough material on the rotor to make it feasible to resurface
Yes in fact you don't want to touch the bleeder valve at all. That will introduce air into your brake fluid line and you will have to bleed system to remove air intrusion. Unless you need to flush and replace your brake fluid you never want to open a bleeder line and only open the reservoir to allow pressure to escape when depressing brake pistons. Hope that sort of lengthy explanation helped haha
quick question @engineered mojo, my brakes are squealing on what appears to be the rear axle. Are there only brakes in the front of these corollas? 2010 specifically
Your Corolla probably has a drum brake in rear most likely. Those can squeal as well if malfunctioning or have worn down. It's a different process to replace drum shoes though. Not too hard at all though with correct tools. Unfortunately I dont have a video for that yet! On my list now though
@@EngineeredMojo when i compressed the brake caliper a bit of brake fluid came out from the top and spilled. i checked the fluid level and all was good.
No need to bleed the brakes during a brake pad change thankfully. Only reason to bleed the brakes would be if you accidentally opened the line or it's time to flush the line. That varies by car but typically every 50k miles. You can check your particular model online
Great video man. Seriously. I've been trying to learn the ins and outs of my car, to help save money. And I'm starting with the basics. Helps a lot and it made me laugh a bit.
Thanks I really appreciate you taking the time to provide thoughtful feedback. You are starting on right path to learn about car mechanics. Starting small always leads to being able to knock out more involved repairs later on as usually it's just a bunch of small part removals until getting to the main repair. Good luck on your repairs!
21mm socket for the wheel nuts...also, you didn't remove the slide pins, they need to be inspected, cleaned and lubed with a proper lube. Very important step missing! Torque the wheel nuts to 76ft/lbs.
If the brake pads do not move freely in the retaining clips, pull the clips off and use a file to lightly remove rust from the iron caliper casting (at the slot). Then apply a light coat of a brake grease to the slot, insert the retaining clips, and check the brake pad fit. The mounting tabs should not bind. Cleaning and re-greasing the pins is usually a good thing to do as well, and you don't need a brake 'anti-quiet' compound, you can simply wipe a small amount of the brake grease on the back of the pad. No need to buy a special brake quieting spray - you just need a high temperature, lower friction seal between the brake pad back and the plate. (The spray used here looked more like battery terminal protector) To reiterate, there are THREE, and only three places to use brake lubricant. Mounting tabs, _backs_ of the brake pads, and the caliper pins and bushings. Use a brake grease. Don't use red and tacky or anything else you might have kicking around. Hint - if you think you might be messing with the brake rotor, get or make brake hangars, and hang the calipers. Banging away on the rotor to knock it loose, especially in road salt country, can knock the caliper down to snap the hydraulic line. If you didn't notice, he placed the wheels underneath the sides of the car. That's so if the jack stands slip for whatever reason, the car isn't going to completely crush his hands or head when it drops.
Yeah. Sister in laws front brake pads were replaced and mechanic never put high temp silicone grease on caliper pins . Passenger side Mag wheel had excessive brake dust all over every week. Not a bad idea to clean pins with brake clean then put a wire wheel on them for extra measure prior to silicon grease.
If their is to much fluid, you may need to remove some so it doesn't spill over. Have a can of break clean around, wire brush and or sandpaper if needed. Also make sure you go counter clockwise when removing the back pins (ask me how I know this) If you go the wrong way and snap the pin, it will turn out with thumb pressure. Also it's good to wipe the pins clean then add a bit of grease, also on the hardware. Pump the breaks when done and do a test drive.
Nice additional tips! Having the brake clean on hand is an awesome tip to clean the possible brake fluid overflow. Definitely can have some overflow when pushing back the pistons. Really appreciate you contributing to the video!
If you like the video please like and subscribe! Looking to scrounge up subscribers to spread helpful advice to and also gain some knowledge from them! Enjoy learning from my videos as much as I try to pass knowledge :)
Brake reservoir looked pretty low, even after front brake pads being replaced. That maybe because the rear brake drum piston was leaking. Makes sense to me . Brake fluid went somewhere. Need to take off both rear drums and inspect.
Are the breaks on the front or the back ?
@@juliananaya4767 this was a front brake pad change
@@CurrentGenGamesWithNick same size I list in the video 14mm unless you have aftermarket caliper bolt
You're a great brother Spencer! Thank you for this video.
I was able to follow this video step by step and finally did my 1st brake pads replacement.
Thanks!
Glad it was easy to follow!
Great tutorial.. Im broke as a joke and need to do this before my "hope" wears out my rotors..
Ordered replacement parts.. Thanks again man!
Haha "hope" only lasts so long right. Glad this video could be of service and appreciate you taking the time to comment!
This video was spot on. Took me less than an hour to change out my front pads in my garage after watching this.
Glad to hear! Appreciate the feedback on the video
It is for safety. U should pumps the brakes several times when u are done ( after completely install the brake pads). Last time after installed them I forgot to press the brake several times almost caused an accident. Unfortunately no one was standing in front my car.
This is very true and a good tip! Need to reestablish pressure in the brake lines and brake pad contact with the rotor. Thanks and good tip :)
Unfortunately?!
@@AllTheCoolNamesAreTaken84lol
"She was breaking on 'pure hope' " lmao
Reminds me of when I changed my first break pads. Me and my brother forgot to pump the breaks. I started up the car and started goin. Brakes wouldn't work and ran it into the neighbors car 😂😭
Thanks bro 👊. Much better presentation than many people, you have a skill.
Ahh man thanks! Appreciate the feedback and let's me know I'm headed in correct direction with my tutorial videos
thank you for what you did show AND I really wished we saw you actually put the caliper housing back on and a few other steps you either didn't shoot or cut out. It's really helpful for us clueless mechanics to see every little thing you do.
Ahh this will be noted for future brake videos I make! Thanks for the constructive feedback and taking the time to comment, really appreciate it. Hope your install went relatively smooth
Great job explaining front brakes replacement. Also I regrease the caliper push pins. Sometimes they dry out from the dust and weather conditions. Just pop them out and apply a little grease and push back in. Very simple.
Great tip, I've been meaning to add that step in future brake jobs. Easy insurance against future brake issues for sure
Dont use grease on the push pins is a silicone solution or silicone paste dont use grease use silicone
@@claytondebroux6827 - 'brake grease' is, at this point in time, a silicone compound. Such as Sil-Glyde, as I use. So, you _grease_ the pins. You don't want to use a silicone oil.
Yo my guy, found this video after realizing I need to replace my brake pads here 2 am in the bay. This is very helpful! I'll be watching your rotor replacement next..(hopefully you made a video :D)
Thanks man great help
Glad the video was helpful!
Good video overall. Concise description, clear video and covered all the steps. This is what UA-cam is all about. Thanks
Appreciate the feedback, trying to replicate what I like to see in tutorial videos
Thank you! First time changing my brake pads and you made it easy.
Glad the install went well and thanks for taking the time to share feedback!
Great video bro… I did a brake job a long time ago and it was successful and I just needed a refresher. This was perfect. Just ordered some pads
Glad the video could provide the quick info needed to complete the task! I do the same, just need a quick refresh usually of tools needed etc haha
Thank you for sharing that good video, it helps me to work on mine at home, many times I don't know about to liftup the oil brake cap, appreciate it.
No problem, that is what UA-cam community is for. Glad you found value in the video and thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts!
"braking on pure hope" lmao. Great Job. Thank you!
Lol that's what it truly felt like
I got a chuckle 🤣 when I heard that at 3:48
Thanks for the help saved me some money keep the helpful videos coming
Awesome to hear! Glad the video was helpful and appreciate the support
All I can is this, thank you bro for this information I really thought it was gonna be hard to change them but yet you made it look si easy
For sure, glad this video provided the information you needed. With the right tips, this job is not too bad. Thanks for taking the time to share your feedback!
Helping my husband with car stuff. Subscribing cause your info is so detailed without being overly so. Ps: using the same Milwaukee tool
Milwaukee tools are so good
Thanks for the video bro. I started on this yesterday on my 2013 Corolla, but it took so much time to get the bolts and rotors unstuck that it was getting dark and I had to stop (no garage). Gonna grab a C clamp like the one you have before I get back to it anyway cause I don’t think I have one. Hopefully the hardest part is over 😆🤞🏻
Oh yea I think you were through the tough part, hope the rest of the install went well!
@@EngineeredMojo it did! Got the C clamp and it worked great. Had no issues with anything else and the car stops on a dime with no more wobbling when slowing down from higher speeds.
@@AllTheCoolNamesAreTaken84 awesome to hear fix went well
Yo man, you’re a life save! This was so detailed.
Glad the video was useful and detailed enough, appreciate the feedback!
Great tutorial but I didn't see you put the new squealer hardware on.
Now that I re-watch the video, I sure didn't show that step. I ended up putting them in, but had forgotten on initial brake pad seating. Luckily I hadn't bolted down the caliper yet! New hardware is not bad putting back in, I just made sure to take off one at a time; therefor I wouldn't confuse myself when reinstalling the new pieces. Thanks for catching that for future viewers!
Does this require bleeding the brakes at all?
No need to bleed the brakes, only need to bleed brakes if you expose the hydraulic line to air thankfully!
Question about popping the cap, doesn’t that same pressure being applied take place when your pressing on the brakes?
Thank you kindly for your very good video Sir !!! I need to change and clean my front caliper pads !!! Cheers !!!
Hope the brake pad change goes well! Glad you found value in the video!
@@EngineeredMojo Yes It realy help me for sure after that I will do the rear one's !!! Cheers !!!
I need help I finally got my 2010 Toyota Corolla le tire off now I'm trying my hardest to get the caliper disconnected but 14 mm is too big for the bolt
thank you! helped me change my own pads for the first time on a budget 💛
Glad to hear! Always good to be able to save a few dollars
Cool technician mechanic video..lol breaking on hope helpful video....... is the beerings easy to replace is full hub beerings assemply has to be change
Wheel bearings replacement is not too hard. Just a bit extra work beyond replacing say a brake caliper without the brake bleeding part. You'll need to either find a shop to press your wheel bearing out and press new one in or get a loaner tool from a auto car store to remove. Some people use a hammer and socket about same size as bearing to knock it out, but that's a bit more work for sure. Hope that helps and thanks for taking the time to comment!
Hey brother I have 2013 corolla myself. Any idea how to replace passenger side, side mirror? Mine popped off and hanging while driving. Any tips will be helpful.
For your viewing pleasure!
ua-cam.com/video/100OgfABjdc/v-deo.html
Hope it helps!
@@EngineeredMojo crap thank you!
@@EngineeredMojo can I replace the mirror without having to buy full new cover etc?
@Chris G like just the glass piece? I'm sure you could but would probably have to find that piece from a junkyard. Haven't seen the mirror sold separately
Do I need to pump by brakes before or after I close the top. Does it matter? Should I at all?
I popped the retaining clips out without taking a picture and am fighting them because the inner brakepad dont wanna snap/slide/wedge in.
The brake cleaner is used to for several jobs, but you should clean off the new rotors as they come with a film coating to prevent rusting. Anyhow glad to help and pay in forward too.
I have also used the C-Clamp while the caliper is still mounted squeezing the piston while still installed, before removing the pads and caliper. It ensures the caliper will remove easier.
@@FBarowsky ahh that's a efficient way to use the clamp!
Make one on the rear shoes! From the looks of those front pads im sure its time for the rears most deafently!
Thanks dude! Keep on doing videos. They help.
Awesome to hear 😀 and appreciate the video feedback
Thank you so much. Gotta do front and rear today (I'm braking on pure hope too right now). Leave the swears in next time lol
Lmao, thanks for taking the time to comment and glad the video was helpful. Braking on hope makes for interesting rides lol
don't you have to bleed to air out of the brake lines?
Only if you open the lines and introduce air into the system, which you should not have to do for a brake pad change 😀. You can change your brake fluid at the regular routine interval recommended by Toyota
Do you need to bleed the brakes at all? I’m confused as to why some people say you have to, and some people say you don’t.
There is no reason to bleed the brakes for a brake pad change. Only reason to bleed brakes is when you open the brake line to the air (bleeder valve, loosen brake line, opening reservoir is okay because you haven't interrupted the direct brake line). Hope that helps!
U just saved me a few hundred dollars probably thnx bro 👍🏿
I'm glad to hear of the money savings! Appreciate you taking time to share
Do the back have pads or no? I need help to find out if i need to purchase them?
Depends on car trim you have, but it's easy to check. Just look underneath the car. If you don't see a rotor then its drum brakes
Good video you forgot the brake grease on the 14 mm bolts helps it slide back in nice
Ahh this is true and a good tip to add!
You didn't cover bleeding the brakes ! Just asking...
No need to bleed the brakes on a brake pad change thankfully! Never bleed your brakes an a brake pad change, but if you ever happen to need to bleed your brakes for a different reason type into UA-cam search bar "self bleed brakes engineered mojo" and my very popular video will pop up :)
Important to note the brake squeak spray is to coat the other side of the brake pads which contact the rotor/disc. There is no moving part on the back of the pads which you sprayed. But good vid. Cheers 😁
thanks very much for the tuition .. now feel very prepared to change my own brake pads on my own car .. cheers, :)
Awesome, glad I could be of service haha. It's a very achievable job with the right steps laid out. Thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts
Great video!!! Very professional AND funny commentary. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful and entertaining!
How many brake pads should I buy? I have a Toyota corolla 09 LE
Brake pads typically come in sets, so you'll have 1 set for the front and if you have rear disk brakes 1 set for the back
@@EngineeredMojo nice. Thank you bro appreciate it and the video
I just saw this video and dude I have been wanting to do it myself to save some money and be able to make money as well lol but are these steps for all 4 wheels
I like and respect the hustle! This process applies to all wheels with disk brakes. If the rear wheels have drum brakes the process is different, but still relatively simple. As soon as I have a car with drum brakes wear out, I plan to make a video
Engineered Mojo sounds good bro much respect for the quick reply much love and you got my sub and likes lol 😝 God bless man and I’ll keep using your vids to help me so you got my support!!!!!!!!!!
Great vid. Perfect- exactly what I needed to know. Thank you!!
Glad the video provided the necessary information! Good luck with the install
Fronts are easy. Rear?? My dream is someone post a video on how to change the rear disc pads of the same generation corolla. can't get the cylinders to turn down. Just spin and spin without retracting. Can't get the caliper back on the rears.
Did you lube up the pistons?
bro did u use oem company brake or after market brake
which brand do u advise
and lastly is bosch brake good?
I used a ceramic brake pad if I remember correctly which is usually mid or top grade brake pad. Usually ceramic brakes provide less brake dust and premature squeal. They are only about 10 to 15 dollars more than cheap brakes. Worth the extra in my opinion, hope this helps!
Thank you man, I had to eat h this because sh*t life will hit you with a few surprises! God bless you man!
Glad the video proved useful for you! Thanks for taking the time to leave feedback on the video
How do you have to clear the line of air?
You shouldn't need to bleed your brakes of air unless you opened your brake line for another unrelated fix. But if you did, you'll need to bleed at minimum the wheel location which you opened the line. Possibly all 4 wheels if more air got in. It's not hard to self bleed and it's even relatively affordable to get it done at a shop, typically less than 100 dollars. I'd search on youtube for a brake bleed video if you did open the lines and need to bleed air from your system.
@@EngineeredMojo Thank you. It was just a question that I had in mind.
I need the rear brakes tutorial for a Toyota corolla 2012😩
do you need to bleed the brakes?
Not necessary to bleed brakes for a brake pad change. Only if it's due for a brake fluid flush 🙂
popping the top off the brake fluid is a great tip!
Mojo mojo mojo...thanks so much ...keep teaching
Glad it was helpful and thanks for leaving feedback :)
Very good tutorial, Thanks.
@@Rafsangani appreciate the feedback on the video!
Appreciate you making this video boss
Glad it was helpful and thanks for taking the time to comment!
Ah.....I think you just used the same disks that has the rough surface on the inside, without grinding to be smooth, so, my estimation is that it works, but, that brake pad had much more wear at the beginning, and maybe, the braking became wobbly because the surface is not even on that surface. The brake disks has to be smooth to avoid wear down the brake pads.
Thank you for the video. Pablo.
That's a good point! If I remember correctly these rotors had to get resurfaced. There was just enough material on the rotor to make it feasible to resurface
how come you did not loosen the bleeder? is it okay not to loosen it?
Yes in fact you don't want to touch the bleeder valve at all. That will introduce air into your brake fluid line and you will have to bleed system to remove air intrusion. Unless you need to flush and replace your brake fluid you never want to open a bleeder line and only open the reservoir to allow pressure to escape when depressing brake pistons. Hope that sort of lengthy explanation helped haha
What happened with the rotor? Did you replaced it?
Ended up getting the rotor resurfaced, it just met the criteria to allow resurfacing
Thank you for this video, I am trying to learn to do this stuff myself and this video was helpful and easy to understand
Glad to hear this is helping you in your car maintenance DIY journey! Appreciate you taking the time to comment and share feedback
quick question @engineered mojo, my brakes are squealing on what appears to be the rear axle. Are there only brakes in the front of these corollas? 2010 specifically
Your Corolla probably has a drum brake in rear most likely. Those can squeal as well if malfunctioning or have worn down. It's a different process to replace drum shoes though. Not too hard at all though with correct tools. Unfortunately I dont have a video for that yet! On my list now though
The only thing that i would add the torque needed to tighten the bolts that hold the brake pad carriage.
Good point, I'll add that to the video description!
Just changed my brakes. A bit of brake fluid leaked. Is this normal?
Where did it leak from?
@@EngineeredMojo nvm i figured out what happened
@@ozz9000 don't keep me in suspense! If you don't mind, what was the cause of the leak?
@@EngineeredMojo when i compressed the brake caliper a bit of brake fluid came out from the top and spilled. i checked the fluid level and all was good.
@@ozz9000 nice, simple and quick resolution
What about bleeding the brakes
No need to bleed the brakes during a brake pad change thankfully. Only reason to bleed the brakes would be if you accidentally opened the line or it's time to flush the line. That varies by car but typically every 50k miles. You can check your particular model online
Preciate you big bro, your video was extra helpful
Appreciate you taking the time to provide you experience and feedback, glad the video provided value for you
Nice video bro, thanks💯💯🙏
Thanks for the feedback!
@@EngineeredMojo no problem bro, good one💯👊🏾
Great show! Thank you!
Hope it was helpful!
Great video man. Seriously. I've been trying to learn the ins and outs of my car, to help save money. And I'm starting with the basics. Helps a lot and it made me laugh a bit.
Thanks I really appreciate you taking the time to provide thoughtful feedback. You are starting on right path to learn about car mechanics. Starting small always leads to being able to knock out more involved repairs later on as usually it's just a bunch of small part removals until getting to the main repair. Good luck on your repairs!
21mm socket for the wheel nuts...also, you didn't remove the slide pins, they need to be inspected, cleaned and lubed with a proper lube. Very important step missing! Torque the wheel nuts to 76ft/lbs.
Ahh good point on the clip that was left out of the slide pins! Good tips brother!!
Liked and subscribed because of this video 👍
Appreciate the support and you taking the time to comment!
Best break pad instructrial I’ve seen , great job
Appreciate the feedback and taking the time to comment. Hope video was helpful for you!
Very good tips. Thanks dude!
No problem glad it was helpful!
Hey what kind of brake pad did you use?
I believe I used duralast gold brake pads found at autozone
@@EngineeredMojo ur godsend my man thanks
You don’t have to remove both pins. Most of the time you can just remove the top pin and slide the caliper over
Ahh this is good to note and potential time saver. I'll attempt next brake pad change!
Mojo thanks for the video it helped out
Awesome glad it helped and thanks for the feedback :)
Good video man thanks, gotta do my ladies brakes now 🤙🏽📈✨
Nice! I'm sure she will appreciate the car fix and glad the video was helpful
If the brake pads do not move freely in the retaining clips, pull the clips off and use a file to lightly remove rust from the iron caliper casting (at the slot). Then apply a light coat of a brake grease to the slot, insert the retaining clips, and check the brake pad fit. The mounting tabs should not bind. Cleaning and re-greasing the pins is usually a good thing to do as well, and you don't need a brake 'anti-quiet' compound, you can simply wipe a small amount of the brake grease on the back of the pad. No need to buy a special brake quieting spray - you just need a high temperature, lower friction seal between the brake pad back and the plate. (The spray used here looked more like battery terminal protector)
To reiterate, there are THREE, and only three places to use brake lubricant. Mounting tabs, _backs_ of the brake pads, and the caliper pins and bushings. Use a brake grease. Don't use red and tacky or anything else you might have kicking around.
Hint - if you think you might be messing with the brake rotor, get or make brake hangars, and hang the calipers. Banging away on the rotor to knock it loose, especially in road salt country, can knock the caliper down to snap the hydraulic line.
If you didn't notice, he placed the wheels underneath the sides of the car. That's so if the jack stands slip for whatever reason, the car isn't going to completely crush his hands or head when it drops.
Awesome tips to make my next brake job more efficient, thanks!
Hell yeah, helped me out a bunch!
Nice! Glad the video provided some value :)
Great job. I enjoy the humor.
Thanks for sharing
No problem, hope it is helpful 👍🏾
Getting old and forgetful so I like to review the steps so I don't miss anything.
Thanks.
Same here and I am relatively young haha. Never hurts to double check the process. Glad the video was helpful!
Thanks, I will change them myself.
Awesome, glad the video could be helpful!
You forgot to put brake caliper grease to avoid uneven brake wear
Never heard of that, I'll have to research that to see how effective it is. Thanks for the info!
Yeah. Sister in laws front brake pads were replaced and mechanic never put high temp silicone grease on caliper pins . Passenger side Mag wheel had excessive brake dust all over every week. Not a bad idea to clean pins with brake clean then put a wire wheel on them for extra measure prior to silicon grease.
If their is to much fluid, you may need to remove some so it doesn't spill over. Have a can of break clean around, wire brush and or sandpaper if needed. Also make sure you go counter clockwise when removing the back pins (ask me how I know this) If you go the wrong way and snap the pin, it will turn out with thumb pressure. Also it's good to wipe the pins clean then add a bit of grease, also on the hardware. Pump the breaks when done and do a test drive.
Nice additional tips! Having the brake clean on hand is an awesome tip to clean the possible brake fluid overflow. Definitely can have some overflow when pushing back the pistons. Really appreciate you contributing to the video!
would counter clockwise be toward the front hood of the vehicle? or toward the trunk of the vehicle?
@@Sexy40baby1 it's always relative to yourself and what counter clockwise would be if the volt threads are pointing away from you
Thanks dude!!!
No problem! Hope it was helpful 😀 thanks for taking the time to comment
“Was breaking on pure hope” lmaoo
Center towhook. who knew. I take it you noticed the strut protective covers. My sister in law is worse. I got her in the settlement.
Sure did! Thanks for taking the time to provide some tips and feedback
Good info.. thanks!!
Nice! Glad the video was helpful and thanks for taking the time to comment
Thank you sir
No problem, hope the video was helpful!
Subscribed 👌🏽
Thankyou!
No problem, hope it was helpful 😀
great thanks
No problem, hope it was helpful!
Thanks man
No problem, thanks for taking the time to comment
No need for the anti squeal red stuff on the back of the brake pads......these pads already have anti squeal shims attached.
Ahh that's some good info, thanks! Save me a few bucks going forward with pads that have that shim
Thanks
No problem, hope it was helpful!
Thanks brah
No problem! Hope it was helpful
That’s a fine man.
That's quite a compliment from a half alien assassin
Engineered Mojo Yes, and in your case the shark bit my right arm, meaning I’m in need of hand with my brake pads.
braking on pure hope 😭💀