To celebrate Banggood's 13th Anniversary, let's fix one of its product. I only include that in the title to make them happy, the video itself is irrelevant. Time Stamps: Intro & required tools: 00:13 Problems & how to fix: 00:34 How to install the upgrade: 3:04 Test drive: 9:02
Pretty neat video, any plans on perhaps buying & checking out the carisma gt24 cars ? awd, brushless & great value for the money. Seems to be a subaru imprezza 99 wrc & hyundai I20 wrc teased on their facebook page & plans for more of them as well. facebook.com/carisma.com.hk/ I will be waiting for the subaru impreza myself here unless they show up with a toyota corolla wrc or toyota celica wrc. Almost the same body as my mini-z subaru impreza other then this being lightweight lexan compared too hardplastic body. The built in esc should take a 2s lipo fine as well if you turn on the lipo cutoff via some programming in the manual.
@@Mini-z1994 Impreza is due to come out? Now I want one too. Charisma GT24 was there even before I bought my first WLtoys. But I went with the WLtoys and here is where we are today. From what I know it's a very good car, great value for money, very powerful and support 2S lipo out of the box. Handling is not as precise as Mini-Z buggy but you can mod it quite easily. Edit: I've seen the real one too. It's a tad bigger than on-road Mini-Z, roughly the same size as Mini-Z Buggy.
@@BeaversHobby I got a GT24B and a GT24TR. They are very lightweight and incredibly fast on 2s with the stock brushless motor (I even managed to perform standing backflips, check the vid on my channel). Being lightweight they can take a beating before breaking, I launched them 1/1.5 meters high without problems. As you mentioned, a flaw can be the lack precision, there is some wobble in the a-arms and wheels. But it does not prevent them from being a blast to drive. They are more "bash" oriented I would say.
I have too admit, I did not install the lower control arms on my model. I will recommend purchasing a set of M2 carbon steel bolts from BG, they replace the supplied screws for all the control rods. I will have to set my stock model with this complete set, finally received a replacement for my K989. Awesome video, as always keep it up.
Thanks for answers to my previous questions. One more please advise. I purchased a carbon fiber chassis from aliexpress and the bearings seem to not be right. My diff's are very loose lots of wiggle. Any idea?
The trouble is there are 2 versions of this car, old one and new one. The old one has diff bearings with 10mm outer diameter and the new one has 9.5mm outer diameter. You'll need to check this. I assume you have the new version of the car but the carbon chassis with aluminium gearbox is still the old version. To fix this you'll have to change the diff to the old version too so it has the same bearing (which will make it compatible with Mini-Z diffs too).
Hi! I bought the trek-250 ball heads, the heads are fine, but the screw part is narrower than the aliminium k989 parts, so they don’t fit. So I wouldn’t recommend these for fixing the lower part of the knuckles. Filing with a rotary tool seems to be the best option.
After watching all your videos on this car, the only thing that you have not make a video about is the carbon fiber chasis. There were little to no info about it. Could you do a video about it? I heard that you can shorten the wheel base to 94mm.
Unfortunately the carbon fibre chassis also has a problem that you'll have to grind the downstopper plates out and that's very tricky to get right. Otherwise if you just OK with lowered ride height and with non fully working suspension then it's quite alright. It's not just swapping the chassis plate to make it 94mm, you'll have to cut the shaft too. All in all the chassis upgrades for this car pose more problems than they solve.
@@BeaversHobby nothing comes easy with this platform huh lol. I may try to make the CF chasis work. So far I’m having fun with the stock ones drifting it around my living room. Do you recommend locking both front and back diff for strictly drifting? Or should i just lock the rear diff?
@@cityofplant Locking rear is a must for AWD drifting, front is optional. Try locking it temporary first with a piece of paper and see if you like how it drifts.
Your video is great and really helpful and thanks for another one great and helpful video you make! This is the second time I read Greek into the Paper you have over there desk. At which place of Greece are you leaving?
Using a small washer under the base of the lower arms between the screw head and the ball joint prevents any binding or slipping issues with the ball joint (so far) the added length of the lower arms does mean you are given so additional toe in on the rear wheels however, to fix this I ended up cutting and re glueing the upper arms that stay plastic to extend them, I’m still working on a better fix
Thanks for the suggestion. I've tried that. If you are lucky the underside washer method would work but in my case the ball sockets were too loose and the ball would jam up the suspension anyway. Also the suspension is too loose and that washer although keeping the ball from popping off it adds even more friction to the system so I abandoned that idea because I didn't want to waste my time fixing the thing that would decrease the performance. The toe angle is easy to fix. I have also done that in my previous video where I made adjustable linkages. I recommend you to drill the centre and put a screw into it to strengthen the arm too.
That’s unlucky, mine only bound up slightly so the washer fixed it. As for the top angle if my glued arms fail I plan to manufacture my own aluminium part to replace them, probably not worth the effort but a good exercise (luckily I have access to a Milling machine I accept this isn’t possible for most people)
Hey Beaver, I see that you have the blue and silver metal parts. Let me tell you my experience with red one. It seems the shock towers on these are quite lower as i have to compress the springs a bit before i can put them in. The front steering knuckle seems to be longer, making the steering linkage shorter and giving me a positive camber. I seem to not have problems attaching all the lower arms. My suspension is getting stuck though. Also since my shocks are already a bit compressed, i basically have little to zero suspension. And yeah the upper arms are longer. I havent tried running it, though i doubt it will run well anyway with all my issues
Thanks for sharing your experience. As long as the ball doesn't slip out of socket it should be fine. If the suspension is sticky you'll have a hard time running it.
Aliexpress should have it. Search for 17T mod 0.5 gear with 2mm hole. Personally I don't recommend it because it doesn't help in anything apart from making it difficult to come off when doing maintenance.
It depends on how you want it to drive. Generally for drifting we'd want it to be light enough so it turns quickly but heavy enough so it doesn't just rocket off when pushing the throttle. For touring you'd want it to be light enough so it doesn't have too much momentum while braking and turning. So, just keep it light then use weight on the certain part of the car to get the grip level you want.
hello I am very admired by your skills I have seen many videos I wanted to ask you if you were telling me what is that green liquid you put in the vine to dance as it is called? It also serves me ... and the names of the pieces of the helicopter trex 250 thanks in advance
I don't remember the green stuff I use but there's blue Kyosho gear diff grease #30000 that I apply on my shock to make it smoother. As for the Trex250 parts, Ball link set is no. H25036T, Rods: H25057, Ball heads: H25055A but these are not M2 screw, they are smaller but the head is 3.5mm. Also if you want a ball link plier, H25070 for 3.5mm ball head.
Do you find that with the upgraded electronics/transmitter you can get more steering angle by adjusting steering endpoints (assuming you have a mono shock set up in front)?
I know the frustrations of doing this....I got 1 bad lower arm. I might do the steering linkage mod, I have my own custom, but this one looks so much tidier.
Wheels are from Firelap and they are discontinued. Nowadays you can get better wheels from racing company like GL Racing, Atomic and PN Racing. As for the tyres, they are from DS Racing. You can order directly from the source facebook.com/DSracingthailand or look for a DS Racing distributor in your area. If you are in the EU/UK check out rcm8.net . They got all the stuffs.
I think I just found working arms and aluminum parts for my k989 on aliexpress. All that with the big hobbywing 16bl30 ESC and a diecast metal body shell coming I assume that my car will be as heavy as tungsten. And since my motor is the 1625 leopard 9000kv do you think that my car can have enough torque to drift at all? even with the smallest pinion and biggest spur that can work?
Really appreciate your videos! Keep up the good work. Could you review the new kyosho mini z RWD with the updated transmitter? I think the old transmitter looked like a children's toy :)
I'm thinking about getting a FWD since RWD is the same chassis that I have with just updated electronics. So, I'll get a different chassis with updated electronics as well. Also yes, KT-19 looks like a toy. But it's really comfortable despite tiny grip.
It depends which kit do you have. Some has small screw for standard shock tower so they'll work directly. Some will have M2 screw which will require modification or aluminium shock tower. Ask the shop, they should know... I think.
I just added this kit to my car after owning it for a year but keep having issues with it bottoming out. I cannot for the life of me, find stiffer springs to accomodate the added weight. It's mostly my front end bottoming out. Causes my angle to get thrown off.
If you use the lower arm, that thing decrease the ride height by a lot so there's no surprise it bottoms out. Otherwise it's the ball head with thick neck so the suspension can only move a bit resulting in low ride height.
I just remembered that I do not have the lower arms installed. They caused too many issues. I also grinded off the tabs on the chassis to allow for more suspension travel. Do you happen to know what springs will fit the K989 shocks? I definitely need to stiffen it up a bit. When I push on the bulk heads, there is almost no bounce back so the weight transfer causes the front to dive.
@@ZombifexGaming The original springs are the ones that long enough. There are others like Atomic and Mini-Z DWS springs but they are shorter than the original and will need more preload to work. You can stretch a spring out by pulling it but that needs some precision to work well. The thick neck of the ball head can cause the problem too, it will prevent the ball movement so you'll need to grind the underside of the ball down.
i night the whole upgrade kit for the 989 and half the stuff in the kit doesn't work together!! the hubs have the ball joints but requires a screw instead that's not included. i contacted banggood and instead of trying to fix the kit they want to just give a refund 🙄 the kit cas a-arms hubs diffs etc seemed like a nice upgrade but i gotta try and find screws that no one carries locally
Hi dude, I'm trying to find your video on fitting the diffs with the shorter cups using the 10.5 swing shafts🤔I can't seem to be able to find it🤷♂️has it been removed? Thanks man
Sorry to bother you again Beaver, would you happen to know which long swing shafts are the best that are available today by any chance? I have found some by 'gl racing' and some by 'pn racing' I've also found lots by mini z I don't think I'll be using them again..... they seemed to snap way to easily I would really like some strong one's if you can help me choose some? Thank you👍
@@tomwright943 Try RC Aurora. I suggested this to a SZ driver with snapping shaft problem and this solved it. ppm-rcracing.com/products/Wide-Crooked-Angle-Universal-Shaft-for-Mini%252dZ-%286061-Blue-1Pair-Long%29.html
Thank you 😊 they look 'just the ticket' with their 'wide crooked angle' hopefully they are strong enough🤞...... is it beneficial to your channel if I order through the link you provided? Many thanks👍
Just got the k989, did you have to calibrate the hobby wing esc or did it come already programmed ? Also what ratios with the include gears would be ideal for drifting, speed, rally etc ?
You'll need to calibrate the ESC to let it know where is the centre-max-min of the transmitter. This is separated from the program, the default program runs well already so you don't really need to do anything unless you have specific need. Gear ratio also depends on the motor you use. My test setup are 12T on motor if it's 6000KV or more and 15T if it's under 6000KV. Spur gear is stock 29T.
@@ldot4320 If you use brushed ESC, you don't need to. But for brushless it'll show on the manual. Mostly for Hobbywing brushless ESC is this procedure. - Turn the transmitter on, make sure throttle trim is at 0. - Hold the set button on the ESC. - Turn it on, it'll beep. - Let go of the button, light will blink. - On the transmitter, leave the throttle at neutral then on the ESC, press the set button once, green light will blink once. - On the transmitter, hold the throttle to full forward then on the ESC, press the set button once, green light will blink twice. - On the transmitter, push it to full brake then on the ESC, press the set button once, green light will blink 3 times. - Now let go of the throttle back to neutral. - Wait for a few seconds and you're good to go.
@@ldot4320 Atomic shafts won't increase the steering, you need the RC Aurora here. ppm-rcracing.com/products/Wide-Crooked-Angle-Universal-Shaft-for-Mini%252dZ-%286061-Blue-1Pair-Long%29.html Better get the long one so you can use front one way without extending drive cups.
There're drift tyres from Mini-Q on banggod. They are alright, I'd say slightly better than original K969 tyres. bit.ly/2CM4uVo As for grip tyres, here they are. bit.ly/2v5ulTT
There's no permanent fix. But you can bore it out then cut that section from original arm to fill it then use standard ball head. But over time it will slip out anyway.
@@jesusvazquez8483 If the balls don't fall out or stuck then you can use them without problem. Apart from the ball socket side all the rest are identical on these arms. That's also why they are so thick and decrease ride height.
Yes, they are. The wheels are the same standard so you can swap them no problem at all. However if you take the tyres only and fit them on AMZ (essentially Mini-Z) wheels, for grip tyres you'll have to glue them in. Drift tyres are direct fit however what come in AMZ kit are in different league.
@@adriancjones They are really good. The offset is a bit much but they are strong and balanced. I use it here. ua-cam.com/video/5fvx6Uw8mSU/v-deo.html And also here. ua-cam.com/video/7tq9JoxmZU8/v-deo.html Haven't got the new ones yet (the gold ones) but If they are anything like my old set, they are good too.
The shocks? No, they give the car even more problem. They are unnecessary expensive as well. You're better off with grease shocks from Atomic in term of performance. Otherwise if you only need it to look good... sure... use the alloy shocks.
There are some from Hobbyking. hobbyking.com/en_us/catalogsearch/result/?q=k989 You can also use M2 flat head and button head too. Look for assortment kit from many places like banggood or ebay.
@@BeaversHobby In hobbyking everything is sold. On bangood there is nothing. And on ebay one guy was selling screws. I bought them but it turned out he is fraud and didn't ship.
@@Muchomorek2 These are what I have, one flat head box and one button head box. bit.ly/2NXG3tY Once I clear out my schedule I'll make a video replacing the original screws with these.
A little off topic, but do you still play any racing sims or any games like rocket league or anything currently? If so, what platform. P.S. please make an instagram. I’m pretty sure you have a large following on there as well. Keep up the good work ✌🏾
Thanks. I'll look in to how instagram works. I also have twitter but rarely use it. Checking many social medias seems like a drag. LOL I don't play as much game as before. But I occasionally play Assetto Corsa (the first one, not Competizione), DiRT Rally, Grid Autosport and VRC on Steam, the name is Beaver_XT.
They are essentially the same chassis. K969 comes with drift tyres, locked diff (for drifting) and Porsche body. K989 comes with grip tyres, open diff (for normal driving) and Ford Fiesta body. Choose them according to how would you like to drive. If you want to drift, K969. If you want to drive normally, K989.
@@dekil19 The bodies need different poles. Fiesta's poles are longer at the back. The front are the same. You can still extend the old poles or actually the spare shouldn't be expensive.
If you already have a WLtoys and want an upgrade, get the AMZ or GLA V2.1. Mini-Z is alright but with proprietary electronics, it won't go as far as a kit car.
Mate I would have sent it all back and saved my time. love ur videos man. But this would be to much mods it should just fit bad product I say. looks like ur the man to fix it tho 😉
Thats crap all the screws it comes with you have to do all that fabrication. What car around 200 comes ready to run and build right rtr? Bmr/x plastic version? Kyosho z?
If you don't have any experience with RC, get Kyosho. It's the easiest to start. Otherwise if you want to build your own car, choose your own components you can get pretty much anything for $300. BMR-X is a good car even though it's not in Mini-Z ecosystem. Atomic DRZ V2 or GL Racing GLD are also good RWD drift car. If you want an AWD that can do anything get GL Racing GLA. All of these will require assembly and choosing every other components yourself. If you are up for that, good. You'll get a much better car than Mini-Z.
I wounder dayli why the designer of the alu parts dident make it like it shound have been, it´s just weird to make something bad that could easyly have been awesome.
I never really pay attention to how I talk but lately I started to give live commentary and people are saying I sound different so I guess it's different.
To celebrate Banggood's 13th Anniversary, let's fix one of its product.
I only include that in the title to make them happy, the video itself is irrelevant.
Time Stamps:
Intro & required tools: 00:13
Problems & how to fix: 00:34
How to install the upgrade: 3:04
Test drive: 9:02
Pretty neat video, any plans on perhaps buying & checking out the carisma gt24 cars ? awd, brushless & great value for the money.
Seems to be a subaru imprezza 99 wrc & hyundai I20 wrc teased on their facebook page & plans for more of them as well.
facebook.com/carisma.com.hk/
I will be waiting for the subaru impreza myself here unless they show up with a toyota corolla wrc or toyota celica wrc.
Almost the same body as my mini-z subaru impreza other then this being lightweight lexan compared too hardplastic body.
The built in esc should take a 2s lipo fine as well if you turn on the lipo cutoff via some programming in the manual.
@@Mini-z1994 Impreza is due to come out? Now I want one too.
Charisma GT24 was there even before I bought my first WLtoys. But I went with the WLtoys and here is where we are today.
From what I know it's a very good car, great value for money, very powerful and support 2S lipo out of the box. Handling is not as precise as Mini-Z buggy but you can mod it quite easily.
Edit: I've seen the real one too. It's a tad bigger than on-road Mini-Z, roughly the same size as Mini-Z Buggy.
Time to dig out the wl again. I don't know what it is about the wl that makes it so addictive to mod. Thanks Mr B.
@@BeaversHobby I got a GT24B and a GT24TR. They are very lightweight and incredibly fast on 2s with the stock brushless motor (I even managed to perform standing backflips, check the vid on my channel).
Being lightweight they can take a beating before breaking, I launched them 1/1.5 meters high without problems.
As you mentioned, a flaw can be the lack precision, there is some wobble in the a-arms and wheels. But it does not prevent them from being a blast to drive. They are more "bash" oriented I would say.
@@euqat Thanks for the input. Too bad I didn't buy it when it was available.
Great how to/ instructional video. Glad the k989 was resurrected, I was sad to watch it be torn apart and tossed in the Tupperware
I have too admit, I did not install the lower control arms on my model.
I will recommend purchasing a set of M2 carbon steel bolts from BG, they replace the supplied screws for all the control rods.
I will have to set my stock model with this complete set, finally received a replacement for my K989.
Awesome video, as always keep it up.
Perfect Video, helps us all with our WL toys 1:28 cars. Now I can fix the alluminium parts that I have bought 8 month ago
Thanks for answers to my previous questions. One more please advise. I purchased a carbon fiber chassis from aliexpress and the bearings seem to not be right. My diff's are very loose lots of wiggle. Any idea?
The trouble is there are 2 versions of this car, old one and new one. The old one has diff bearings with 10mm outer diameter and the new one has 9.5mm outer diameter. You'll need to check this.
I assume you have the new version of the car but the carbon chassis with aluminium gearbox is still the old version. To fix this you'll have to change the diff to the old version too so it has the same bearing (which will make it compatible with Mini-Z diffs too).
@BeaversHobby Again you have helped me alot. Many many thanks😊
Not sure which one to buy can you recommend one for me to buy and try?@BeaversHobby
@@papotv85 There's aluminium diff that is blue or red. Some of the vendors sell it with bearing. That'll fit the old gearbox.
Hi! I bought the trek-250 ball heads, the heads are fine, but the screw part is narrower than the aliminium k989 parts, so they don’t fit. So I wouldn’t recommend these for fixing the lower part of the knuckles. Filing with a rotary tool seems to be the best option.
beaver rules - thanks for all the help with DRZ
After watching all your videos on this car, the only thing that you have not make a video about is the carbon fiber chasis. There were little to no info about it. Could you do a video about it? I heard that you can shorten the wheel base to 94mm.
Unfortunately the carbon fibre chassis also has a problem that you'll have to grind the downstopper plates out and that's very tricky to get right. Otherwise if you just OK with lowered ride height and with non fully working suspension then it's quite alright. It's not just swapping the chassis plate to make it 94mm, you'll have to cut the shaft too. All in all the chassis upgrades for this car pose more problems than they solve.
@@BeaversHobby nothing comes easy with this platform huh lol. I may try to make the CF chasis work. So far I’m having fun with the stock ones drifting it around my living room. Do you recommend locking both front and back diff for strictly drifting? Or should i just lock the rear diff?
@@cityofplant Locking rear is a must for AWD drifting, front is optional. Try locking it temporary first with a piece of paper and see if you like how it drifts.
Hi Sir, Have you use any of those metal aluminum differential available ay banggood/aliexpress? Thank you
Your video is great and really helpful and thanks for another one great and helpful video you make! This is the second time I read Greek into the Paper you have over there desk. At which place of Greece are you leaving?
Using a small washer under the base of the lower arms between the screw head and the ball joint prevents any binding or slipping issues with the ball joint (so far) the added length of the lower arms does mean you are given so additional toe in on the rear wheels however, to fix this I ended up cutting and re glueing the upper arms that stay plastic to extend them, I’m still working on a better fix
Thanks for the suggestion. I've tried that. If you are lucky the underside washer method would work but in my case the ball sockets were too loose and the ball would jam up the suspension anyway. Also the suspension is too loose and that washer although keeping the ball from popping off it adds even more friction to the system so I abandoned that idea because I didn't want to waste my time fixing the thing that would decrease the performance.
The toe angle is easy to fix. I have also done that in my previous video where I made adjustable linkages. I recommend you to drill the centre and put a screw into it to strengthen the arm too.
That’s unlucky, mine only bound up slightly so the washer fixed it. As for the top angle if my glued arms fail I plan to manufacture my own aluminium part to replace them, probably not worth the effort but a good exercise (luckily I have access to a Milling machine I accept this isn’t possible for most people)
@@cunningstunt9226 If you have the ability to do it, just do it. 😉
These videos help me with my car thanks for the help
Hey Beaver, I see that you have the blue and silver metal parts. Let me tell you my experience with red one. It seems the shock towers on these are quite lower as i have to compress the springs a bit before i can put them in. The front steering knuckle seems to be longer, making the steering linkage shorter and giving me a positive camber. I seem to not have problems attaching all the lower arms. My suspension is getting stuck though. Also since my shocks are already a bit compressed, i basically have little to zero suspension. And yeah the upper arms are longer. I havent tried running it, though i doubt it will run well anyway with all my issues
Thanks for sharing your experience. As long as the ball doesn't slip out of socket it should be fine. If the suspension is sticky you'll have a hard time running it.
Hey, great video. Thanks . Where would I get a metal motor gear for this motor?
Aliexpress should have it. Search for 17T mod 0.5 gear with 2mm hole. Personally I don't recommend it because it doesn't help in anything apart from making it difficult to come off when doing maintenance.
@@BeaversHobby ok thank you very much, I’m gonna go with your brushless setup! You’re awesome thanks!
Hello again, may I ask which esc you are using? Thanks and great videos.
Hobbywing Quicrun 1625
Is it bad if the car will be heavier? I thought if it will be heavier it will have more grip on grass for example, will it not?
It depends on how you want it to drive. Generally for drifting we'd want it to be light enough so it turns quickly but heavy enough so it doesn't just rocket off when pushing the throttle. For touring you'd want it to be light enough so it doesn't have too much momentum while braking and turning.
So, just keep it light then use weight on the certain part of the car to get the grip level you want.
hello I am very admired by your skills I have seen many videos I wanted to ask you if you were telling me what is that green liquid you put in the vine to dance as it is called? It also serves me ... and the names of the pieces of the helicopter trex 250 thanks in advance
I don't remember the green stuff I use but there's blue Kyosho gear diff grease #30000 that I apply on my shock to make it smoother.
As for the Trex250 parts, Ball link set is no. H25036T, Rods: H25057, Ball heads: H25055A but these are not M2 screw, they are smaller but the head is 3.5mm.
Also if you want a ball link plier, H25070 for 3.5mm ball head.
@@BeaversHobby hello the green thing if nn mistake was firm fillets?
@@antonioniccolai5625 Sorry. I really don't understand what you mean. Do you remember from which video is this?
Do you find that with the upgraded electronics/transmitter you can get more steering angle by adjusting steering endpoints (assuming you have a mono shock set up in front)?
Yes, with better radio and EPA I can get more steering out of it.
these metal upgrades on banggood are such a pain
better to stick with stock plastic
Cheaper lighter better
Yeah I wish I came across the video first, before wasting $25 on this metal upgrade.
I know the frustrations of doing this....I got 1 bad lower arm. I might do the steering linkage mod, I have my own custom, but this one looks so much tidier.
Hi, may i know what color of aluminum part did you purchase for the upgrade? Titanium or silver? Thanks in advance.
It's titanium colour.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks bro!
Have you done a steering mod on this car , if so have you got a video please
That was when I did the CS mod. Skip to 5:39. ua-cam.com/video/zB3pUN9XiSw/v-deo.html
i upgraded mine and it turns out the servo arms are too short, i had to make my own plastic servo arms for it to work
Are the planing on fixing the kit so it fits properly
Since all other parts work great but there's really no way to fix the lower arms so I can only leave this kit as it is.
Great car. Do you know where I buy that weels and tires whit white letters?
Wheels are from Firelap and they are discontinued. Nowadays you can get better wheels from racing company like GL Racing, Atomic and PN Racing. As for the tyres, they are from DS Racing. You can order directly from the source facebook.com/DSracingthailand or look for a DS Racing distributor in your area. If you are in the EU/UK check out rcm8.net . They got all the stuffs.
I think I just found working arms and aluminum parts for my k989 on aliexpress. All that with the big hobbywing 16bl30 ESC and a diecast metal body shell coming I assume that my car will be as heavy as tungsten. And since my motor is the 1625 leopard 9000kv do you think that my car can have enough torque to drift at all? even with the smallest pinion and biggest spur that can work?
Yes, with 8T motor pinion it should work.
Can tight gear mesh make the motor cog at lower speeds?
@@forthememes1311 Yes, it can but the effect is not quite the same as bad ESC. Still, it'll be difficult to start running.
Really appreciate your videos! Keep up the good work. Could you review the new kyosho mini z RWD with the updated transmitter? I think the old transmitter looked like a children's toy :)
I'm thinking about getting a FWD since RWD is the same chassis that I have with just updated electronics. So, I'll get a different chassis with updated electronics as well. Also yes, KT-19 looks like a toy. But it's really comfortable despite tiny grip.
Hi can i just replace aliminum shocks with out replacing the shock.mounts? Thank you
It depends which kit do you have. Some has small screw for standard shock tower so they'll work directly. Some will have M2 screw which will require modification or aluminium shock tower. Ask the shop, they should know... I think.
I just added this kit to my car after owning it for a year but keep having issues with it bottoming out. I cannot for the life of me, find stiffer springs to accomodate the added weight. It's mostly my front end bottoming out. Causes my angle to get thrown off.
If you use the lower arm, that thing decrease the ride height by a lot so there's no surprise it bottoms out. Otherwise it's the ball head with thick neck so the suspension can only move a bit resulting in low ride height.
@Beaver's Hobby I will take a look at it this evening and check those areas. Thank you very much!
I just remembered that I do not have the lower arms installed. They caused too many issues. I also grinded off the tabs on the chassis to allow for more suspension travel. Do you happen to know what springs will fit the K989 shocks? I definitely need to stiffen it up a bit. When I push on the bulk heads, there is almost no bounce back so the weight transfer causes the front to dive.
@@ZombifexGaming The original springs are the ones that long enough. There are others like Atomic and Mini-Z DWS springs but they are shorter than the original and will need more preload to work. You can stretch a spring out by pulling it but that needs some precision to work well.
The thick neck of the ball head can cause the problem too, it will prevent the ball movement so you'll need to grind the underside of the ball down.
i night the whole upgrade kit for the 989 and half the stuff in the kit doesn't work together!! the hubs have the ball joints but requires a screw instead that's not included. i contacted banggood and instead of trying to fix the kit they want to just give a refund 🙄 the kit cas a-arms hubs diffs etc seemed like a nice upgrade but i gotta try and find screws that no one carries locally
The screws that attach the arms to the knuckles are M2 6mm with Philips button head. 5mm should still be OK to use. A local supplier should have it.
Hi dude, I'm trying to find your video on fitting the diffs with the shorter cups using the 10.5 swing shafts🤔I can't seem to be able to find it🤷♂️has it been removed? Thanks man
Here it is. ua-cam.com/video/BLAHvTAa6nM/v-deo.html
Thank you very much 👍 I'll forward it to my friend now 👍
Sorry to bother you again Beaver, would you happen to know which long swing shafts are the best that are available today by any chance? I have found some by 'gl racing' and some by 'pn racing' I've also found lots by mini z I don't think I'll be using them again..... they seemed to snap way to easily I would really like some strong one's if you can help me choose some? Thank you👍
@@tomwright943 Try RC Aurora. I suggested this to a SZ driver with snapping shaft problem and this solved it. ppm-rcracing.com/products/Wide-Crooked-Angle-Universal-Shaft-for-Mini%252dZ-%286061-Blue-1Pair-Long%29.html
Thank you 😊 they look 'just the ticket' with their 'wide crooked angle' hopefully they are strong enough🤞...... is it beneficial to your channel if I order through the link you provided? Many thanks👍
Just got the k989, did you have to calibrate the hobby wing esc or did it come already programmed ? Also what ratios with the include gears would be ideal for drifting, speed, rally etc ?
You'll need to calibrate the ESC to let it know where is the centre-max-min of the transmitter.
This is separated from the program, the default program runs well already so you don't really need to do anything unless you have specific need.
Gear ratio also depends on the motor you use. My test setup are 12T on motor if it's 6000KV or more and 15T if it's under 6000KV. Spur gear is stock 29T.
@@BeaversHobby what do I press to calibrate ?
@@ldot4320 If you use brushed ESC, you don't need to.
But for brushless it'll show on the manual. Mostly for Hobbywing brushless ESC is this procedure.
- Turn the transmitter on, make sure throttle trim is at 0.
- Hold the set button on the ESC.
- Turn it on, it'll beep.
- Let go of the button, light will blink.
- On the transmitter, leave the throttle at neutral then on the ESC, press the set button once, green light will blink once.
- On the transmitter, hold the throttle to full forward then on the ESC, press the set button once, green light will blink twice.
- On the transmitter, push it to full brake then on the ESC, press the set button once, green light will blink 3 times.
- Now let go of the throttle back to neutral.
- Wait for a few seconds and you're good to go.
@@BeaversHobby thankyou, can you please send me the link to the atomic swing shafts for the k989 so it can have the increased steering angle ?
@@ldot4320 Atomic shafts won't increase the steering, you need the RC Aurora here.
ppm-rcracing.com/products/Wide-Crooked-Angle-Universal-Shaft-for-Mini%252dZ-%286061-Blue-1Pair-Long%29.html
Better get the long one so you can use front one way without extending drive cups.
Isn't there a good full kit to buy that doesn't require all this trouble?
As far as I know, no. Some lucked out with minimum fixing so it's all up to luck.
Can I find the tires at banggood or somewhere else? The tires not the rims.
There're drift tyres from Mini-Q on banggod. They are alright, I'd say slightly better than original K969 tyres. bit.ly/2CM4uVo
As for grip tyres, here they are. bit.ly/2v5ulTT
So what can I do to fix the lower control arms? It doesn’t make sense that I paid for them and can’t use them.
There's no permanent fix. But you can bore it out then cut that section from original arm to fill it then use standard ball head. But over time it will slip out anyway.
My joint balls don’t fall out, my problem is more that they are directional but I got all the same so two are upside down.
@@jesusvazquez8483 If the balls don't fall out or stuck then you can use them without problem. Apart from the ball socket side all the rest are identical on these arms. That's also why they are so thick and decrease ride height.
To cut clean threads, first screw on a nut. After cuting the screw unthread the nut to clean the threads.
Thanks. I'll try that next time.
You should show how to fix and modify 1:87 scale RC.
Thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately I'm currently not familiar with that scale. Let me do some research and I might do it someday.
Are the tires from this car compatible with atomic amz car?
Yes, they are. The wheels are the same standard so you can swap them no problem at all.
However if you take the tyres only and fit them on AMZ (essentially Mini-Z) wheels, for grip tyres you'll have to glue them in.
Drift tyres are direct fit however what come in AMZ kit are in different league.
Beaver's Hobby do you ever use the aluminum wheels from banggood? Are they any good or just for looks ?
@@adriancjones They are really good. The offset is a bit much but they are strong and balanced. I use it here.
ua-cam.com/video/5fvx6Uw8mSU/v-deo.html
And also here. ua-cam.com/video/7tq9JoxmZU8/v-deo.html
Haven't got the new ones yet (the gold ones) but If they are anything like my old set, they are good too.
Please upgrade suspension alloy
The shocks? No, they give the car even more problem. They are unnecessary expensive as well. You're better off with grease shocks from Atomic in term of performance. Otherwise if you only need it to look good... sure... use the alloy shocks.
Where do i get spare screws for K989?
There are some from Hobbyking.
hobbyking.com/en_us/catalogsearch/result/?q=k989
You can also use M2 flat head and button head too. Look for assortment kit from many places like banggood or ebay.
@@BeaversHobby In hobbyking everything is sold. On bangood there is nothing. And on ebay one guy was selling screws. I bought them but it turned out he is fraud and didn't ship.
@@Muchomorek2 These are what I have, one flat head box and one button head box. bit.ly/2NXG3tY
Once I clear out my schedule I'll make a video replacing the original screws with these.
Very nice !
Does it drift better when it’s heavier ?
No. It's even more sluggish in transition.
Ah ok thankyou
@@davidturner2365 My pleasure.
A little off topic, but do you still play any racing sims or any games like rocket league or anything currently? If so, what platform. P.S. please make an instagram. I’m pretty sure you have a large following on there as well. Keep up the good work ✌🏾
Thanks. I'll look in to how instagram works. I also have twitter but rarely use it. Checking many social medias seems like a drag. LOL
I don't play as much game as before. But I occasionally play Assetto Corsa (the first one, not Competizione), DiRT Rally, Grid Autosport and VRC on Steam, the name is Beaver_XT.
Hello, me and nephew are noob mini racer.
What you think better, WL 969 or 989?
Same price here.
Thanks in advance
They are essentially the same chassis. K969 comes with drift tyres, locked diff (for drifting) and Porsche body. K989 comes with grip tyres, open diff (for normal driving) and Ford Fiesta body.
Choose them according to how would you like to drive. If you want to drift, K969. If you want to drive normally, K989.
understood, thank you
question for body, can substitute between that two, plug in as is?
considered buy two, after looking for shipping price
@@dekil19 The bodies need different poles. Fiesta's poles are longer at the back. The front are the same. You can still extend the old poles or actually the spare shouldn't be expensive.
Im also new to the hobby, do you sell any of the cars you upgrade? Id be very interested if you did.
Upgrade this or just a mini z?
If you already have a WLtoys and want an upgrade, get the AMZ or GLA V2.1. Mini-Z is alright but with proprietary electronics, it won't go as far as a kit car.
Mate I would have sent it all back and saved my time. love ur videos man. But this would be to much mods it should just fit bad product I say. looks like ur the man to fix it tho 😉
Cara você podia criar uma loja de vendas de rc parts
Thats crap all the screws it comes with you have to do all that fabrication. What car around 200 comes ready to run and build right rtr? Bmr/x plastic version? Kyosho z?
If you don't have any experience with RC, get Kyosho. It's the easiest to start. Otherwise if you want to build your own car, choose your own components you can get pretty much anything for $300. BMR-X is a good car even though it's not in Mini-Z ecosystem. Atomic DRZ V2 or GL Racing GLD are also good RWD drift car. If you want an AWD that can do anything get GL Racing GLA.
All of these will require assembly and choosing every other components yourself. If you are up for that, good. You'll get a much better car than Mini-Z.
I wounder dayli why the designer of the alu parts dident make it like it shound have been, it´s just weird to make something bad that could easyly have been awesome.
👍👍👍👍👍
I can do this with only basic tools.
It'll be difficult and very time consuming but it's doable.
too bad the metal lower arm are unusable. I bought a few sets and it pains me to not able to fully upgrade my car 😑
holly molly bat man this car is a real pain in the arse!
Keeping the chassis standard is alright. Once you start to do metal upgrades the problems start piling up.
Omg too much work wor aluminium upgrade 😐
For reals, though, the manufacturer should make sure we don't have to do this time-consuming task, period.
I have a k969 but I can not upgrade because I no monny
Keep it as it is. These aluminium parts don't really improve the car.
I am student from Viet Nam !
Please sell me this car
I can't. I keep it for future reference.
Please man lol I can't build it fault free lol sell me something similar
haha please dont use silly blue plastic gloves that is very dangerous .. u get slippery hand from sweat .. the plastic moves as well .. come on man ..
Do you talk like that in real life or just on your videos?
I never really pay attention to how I talk but lately I started to give live commentary and people are saying I sound different so I guess it's different.