I admire the precision with which you work on anything. In this specific case the critical issue is the next step, that of installing the upper rest for the cords and the bridge. I have restored a couple of guitars myself and let me suggest to select a bone for the upper rest of the cords. To install the bridge you can place it free on the surface , set up a cord and define the position of the bridge from the harmonics. A difference of 1-2 mm from the theoretical position is natural.
Matthias you truly are innovative when it comes to figuring out a good way to achieve some goal. I love your woodworking. I think it's fascinating how you attract so many people offering suggestions and whatnot (hell, I've done it before!). I don't know why that is but the thought process on all your videos and comment threads are really cool to read through (even if you shoot down ideas, like mine that one time). I wish I could find a metal worker UA-camr who elicited half as much discussion.
The mark of a genius is the ability to make complicated things look simple. And a mistrust of convention! On top of that, you let people watch without charging them anything!
Somewhat inspired by these videos and somewhat by an idea I had a while ago I'm also making a uke, but the body of mine is made out of a cigar box. It's a fancy cigar box, made of Spanish cedar, which is what luthiers like to make classical guitars out of, so I thought that was appropriate.
Hi M , now I can tell my friends I have seen Fret Squishing , I might not make one of these music thingys , but the build is compulsive viewing as usual,more power to your maths teacher, you must have listen at school, you the man, G
If you plan to make more instruments with the same dimensions, create a sturdy template of fret board (maybe thin plexy glass) so you can trace each fret mark on your wood blanks. Make a shallow miter saw guide so the saw blade is straight and can only go as deep as you need for the fret. Then just slide the blank to position to saw the next one while you hold it in place. This will prevent having to clamp and re-clamp again. The miter will keep the blank tight along the sides.
A tapered radius on a fretboard indicates having one radius at the nut, for example, 10", which blends into another at the last fret, say 16". Pretty common on (higher end) instruments with very wide fretboards, like an 8 string guitar or a 6 string bass. It is pretty common for ukes to not have any radius on the fretboard, as in this video.
For cutting the frets at specific locations you could have glued those paper tape measures that they give for free at IKEA or hardware stores to the pieces on sides of the fretboard. I always keep a couple of them just to make sawing rigs as I don't own a table saw.
The only thing stopping me from making my own uke is the fretboard. This simplifies it a lot but I don't have the tool to cut it lengthwise once it's done ): You made the fretwork so simple though. I really want to make our own ukulele with my kids.
Well truly black ebony is becoming more scarce and it may surprise you to learn that many ebony fret boards are now darkened with dye. They sell the dye at Stew-Mac. Personally, I don't mind a little brown streaking in my ebony and therefore never dye my fret boards.
its never too late to learn, but without a solid base in mathematics you will never be able to accomplish any respectable level of craftsmanship in any trade.
I'd just like to point out that you need to make sure the fingerboard is extremely flat in the long direction, since when you press down a string at one place, you don't want it touching further down - yet the strings mustn't be to high off the board or it'll be difficult to play.
Matthias. You are an amazing woodworker. An Amazing engineer. But i have to say i was surprised at your lack of accuracy when it came to making this fretboard! I KNOW that you could make the most accurate fretboard jig ever made, so why don't you? You should create it and then seek it to Stew Mac.
I've measured the fret positions of my new Deviser ukulele, and it turned out that they don't exactly follow the math formula. Instead, the 12th fret is 4 mm closer to the nut than to the saddle. I wonder if this is a tolerance of the production, or a deliberate offset to compensate the strings tension, which increases when you press a string down?
I think installing frets from the side would be difficult. I am aware of only two methods: tapping them in with a soft faced hammer and pressing them in, usually with a special caul made for that purpose.
Just a tipp if you want so save some time there is a fretboard and tailpice calculator on the webseite of Steward McDonnald. Sroll all the way down and look for "Free Information"-"Fret Calculator". Link: www.stewmac.com/FretCalculator.html
I would think that you can't lay out the frets until you've chosen a distance between the bridge and the nut. This suggests to me that you've already decided on the location of the bridge.
I am an upholsterer, a frame doesn't look anything like the finial product. there is also a wide difference in upholstery styles, that also mean a frame isn't quite suitable for your idea. And some frames have to be as strong as a grand piano to take the tension of all the springs and webbing. I have had 4 frames implode on me. But only in the last 2 years, due to monkeys making them.
Lots of guitars use maple as fretboards. I Personally own 4 or 5. They are all finished in a laquer, cause like you said finger grease and dirt will stain them over time. Where as the Rosewood fretboard are just oiled. You should of just clear laquered the fretboard, I think it would of looked nice. ....Oh yeah, safety safety blah blah blah safety.
Not sure there is anything out there you cant build......genius How about an articulating duel screen monitor holder which attaches to the back of a desk?? Utilizing all of the machines i've built from your plans:)
ha ha, I was just saying and beside you do have to buy a calculator, well unless it's a gift. Admire all of your work and am currently building a resonator guitar.
I admire the precision with which you work on anything. In this specific case the critical issue is the next step, that of installing the upper rest for the cords and the bridge. I have restored a couple of guitars myself and let me suggest to select a bone for the upper rest of the cords. To install the bridge you can place it free on the surface , set up a cord and define the position of the bridge from the harmonics. A difference of 1-2 mm from the theoretical position is natural.
showing your mistakes, benefits us all. Thank you.
Matthias you truly are innovative when it comes to figuring out a good way to achieve some goal. I love your woodworking. I think it's fascinating how you attract so many people offering suggestions and whatnot (hell, I've done it before!). I don't know why that is but the thought process on all your videos and comment threads are really cool to read through (even if you shoot down ideas, like mine that one time). I wish I could find a metal worker UA-camr who elicited half as much discussion.
man, I am loving these videos. As a ukulele player it's a really interesting project to watch.
I like your simple raw approach to the task. However it highlights your skill level to make it right.
"ive been fretting over this..." yes okay Matthias great pun, you know how to impress us :)
The mark of a genius is the ability to make complicated things look simple. And a mistrust of convention! On top of that, you let people watch without charging them anything!
Fascinating project. You're inspiring me to do some luthier work; just building my skillset with other things first. Keep up the great work.
Somewhat inspired by these videos and somewhat by an idea I had a while ago I'm also making a uke, but the body of mine is made out of a cigar box. It's a fancy cigar box, made of Spanish cedar, which is what luthiers like to make classical guitars out of, so I thought that was appropriate.
Hi M , now I can tell my friends I have seen Fret Squishing , I might not make one of these music thingys , but the build is compulsive viewing as usual,more power to your maths teacher, you must have listen at school, you the man,
G
If you plan to make more instruments with the same dimensions, create a sturdy template of fret board (maybe thin plexy glass) so you can trace each fret mark on your wood blanks.
Make a shallow miter saw guide so the saw blade is straight and can only go as deep as you need for the fret. Then just slide the blank to position to saw the next one while you hold it in place. This will prevent having to clamp and re-clamp again. The miter will keep the blank tight along the sides.
Yes, that happens from time to time. and what happens? Slight scuffing, not enough to bleed from.
I'm really loving this series Matthias, please make more instruments when you're finished with this one! I'd love to see how you'd make a lute.
A tapered radius on a fretboard indicates having one radius at the nut, for example, 10", which blends into another at the last fret, say 16". Pretty common on (higher end) instruments with very wide fretboards, like an 8 string guitar or a 6 string bass. It is pretty common for ukes to not have any radius on the fretboard, as in this video.
Yes, I'm aware of that, but I didn't have time to re-shoot that segment.
Just wondering why you didn't use sketchup/vector drawing of the fret spacings and make a big print of it instead of ruler and pencil?
Can't wait to see this finished.
Nice job.
IIRC, the tool used for setting frets is a luthiers caul.
how big is this ukulele? tenor, concert or soprano? with this method can i calculate for a tenor?
For cutting the frets at specific locations you could have glued those paper tape measures that they give for free at IKEA or hardware stores to the pieces on sides of the fretboard. I always keep a couple of them just to make sawing rigs as I don't own a table saw.
I hadn't precisely placed the frets in the drawings. considering how little effort this method is, there wasn't any point in messing around.
i wonder if short steam exposure would correct the impression left by the fret installation block
So exactly how long did you fret over how to get those little thing-a-ma-jigs to stick into their slots?
I can't wait to see the finished result.
There is fret calculators online. just put in length between bridges, and it give you the list of distances.
My point was that you don't need one of those
Have you ever got your hands on to the belt sander while its running? And if you have, what happened?
Is there some gain from colouring the wood at the beginning versus at the end? The metal should be easy enough to clean.
Are you having a flat fretboard? Fret boards should have a tapered radius from the body to the headstock
Well this channel is above my head but I watch it anyway lol. I really love these videos!!
Looking great, cant wait to see the final product. cheers
A slight chamfer on the fret slots with a file makes fretting MUCH easier, and facilitates replacement when they wear down.
The only thing stopping me from making my own uke is the fretboard. This simplifies it a lot but I don't have the tool to cut it lengthwise once it's done ): You made the fretwork so simple though. I really want to make our own ukulele with my kids.
very interesting series, looking forward to the next one, thanks.
hi, you can put 2 or 3 magnets in the alignmentblock. so the sawblade will be hold in place.
Well truly black ebony is becoming more scarce and it may surprise you to learn that many ebony fret boards are now darkened with dye. They sell the dye at Stew-Mac. Personally, I don't mind a little brown streaking in my ebony and therefore never dye my fret boards.
its never too late to learn, but without a solid base in mathematics you will never be able to accomplish any respectable level of craftsmanship in any trade.
I'd just like to point out that you need to make sure the fingerboard is extremely flat in the long direction, since when you press down a string at one place, you don't want it touching further down - yet the strings mustn't be to high off the board or it'll be difficult to play.
To prevent the fret to slip out, the best is use a small triangle-shape file to bevel the cuts to grant the fret slides in
What kind of black paint is that you use?
Matthias. You are an amazing woodworker. An Amazing engineer. But i have to say i was surprised at your lack of accuracy when it came to making this fretboard! I KNOW that you could make the most accurate fretboard jig ever made, so why don't you? You should create it and then seek it to Stew Mac.
Also, your vise/block method is very close to the fret press that professional luthiers use. Good techniques. :)
I've measured the fret positions of my new Deviser ukulele, and it turned out that they don't exactly follow the math formula. Instead, the 12th fret is 4 mm closer to the nut than to the saddle. I wonder if this is a tolerance of the production, or a deliberate offset to compensate the strings tension, which increases when you press a string down?
Probably, yes.
I think installing frets from the side would be difficult. I am aware of only two methods: tapping them in with a soft faced hammer and pressing them in, usually with a special caul made for that purpose.
love your ingenuity
Even though I won't be able to make it anywhere soon it is very interesting to see.
Just a tipp if you want so save some time there is a fretboard and tailpice calculator on the webseite of Steward McDonnald. Sroll all the way down and look for "Free Information"-"Fret Calculator". Link: www.stewmac.com/FretCalculator.html
Coming along nicely!
"This works so much better without video" . the quantum mechanics of woodworking *smile
A good guitar is good when it's in the hands of a good guitarist, regardless of the price.
"I've been fretting over a good way to...." lol nice
very nice Matthias!
I'm about to use this video to make a 3d printed ukulele, ill update this when im done!
Very nice!! Thanks for showing this video
what size frets do you use?
On a cello they actually make the fingerboard slightly concave for that purpose.
True enough. I just did it this way.
how does one become so good at woodworking like you do?
When you pressed your frets in, you might have used a piece of UMHW, or copper, it may have compressed less than the wood pressing block you used.
Love your work by the way!!
The drill press makes a good arbor press to use for seating frets. You just have to make a caul to fit in the chuck.
Matthias
In the article, the link for Steward MacDonald goes to the wrong address.
It should be stewmac com
I would think that you can't lay out the frets until you've chosen a distance between the bridge and the nut. This suggests to me that you've already decided on the location of the bridge.
I am an upholsterer, a frame doesn't look anything like the finial product. there is also a wide difference in upholstery styles, that also mean a frame isn't quite suitable for your idea. And some frames have to be as strong as a grand piano to take the tension of all the springs and webbing. I have had 4 frames implode on me. But only in the last 2 years, due to monkeys making them.
Not all. The higher end ones have a slight radius, but its still no where near what a guitar is. All my Uke's have flat fretboards.
do the frets ever fall out?
Not if they are properly seated
i think he means that fretboard itself is not just flat peace of wood, but has radius like guitars have.
Is there an easy way to calculate the position of frets....?
My phone isn't that scientific
google it
You are very skillful. Perhaps you might consider giving classes.
There is a free download 'Fretcalc' which will give you the fret spacings for any scale length that you put in.
This video kinda makes me wish I had paid attention in math class haha.
Lots of guitars use maple as fretboards. I Personally own 4 or 5. They are all finished in a laquer, cause like you said finger grease and dirt will stain them over time. Where as the Rosewood fretboard are just oiled. You should of just clear laquered the fretboard, I think it would of looked nice. ....Oh yeah, safety safety blah blah blah safety.
5:19 "fretting" over a good way to get these little thingamajigs..... Clever! Sounds like Seinfeld's got some competition!
looks great good video.
Ok, I was just wondering. I got a small belt sander myself, and even though I like to test tings, this was not something I wanted to test. :P
Thank you for clarifying. I will sleep better tonight.
Fantastic.
or you can make a uke that is fretless (just like a violin)
Will that work?
looking good
There are free buttons on my calculator that do the same thing.
Only really expensive guitars have nice fretwork out of the factory. It would add 100's of dollars to the guitar.
you did 40.9 but it was 40.09...
Yes! Not a stupid request at all! Maple please!
Not sure there is anything out there you cant build......genius
How about an articulating duel screen monitor holder which attaches to the back of a desk??
Utilizing all of the machines i've built from your plans:)
He could easily make all other musical instruments.
Actually, guitars and ukuleles are surprisingly cheap.
what, to hard to put a radius on the fret board? i'd have thought you'd love to figure out some cool new way to do that :D
I want to see more! Now!
ha ha, I was just saying and beside you do have to buy a calculator, well unless it's a gift. Admire all of your work and am currently building a resonator guitar.
Normally, frets are hammered in.
you are much smarter than i am
As I'm sure you know, there is a world of difference between relatively inexpensive and cheap.
5:15 Fretting over your frets :D
He's just giving an opinion or trying to help !
@ 5:18: lol at "fretting over . . . "
Waiting for a rendition of the Canadian national anthem.
THANKS
At 5:50 minutes, I read Italy on your clamps...
oh man my ukulele is without fretboard 😢
+1 for the fret math
Ukes have a flat fretboard.