Good job and everyone should be doing this. A do have a couple of suggestions: 1) I’d add a first flush eliminator before the storage tank 2) I’d use some kind of plumbing fitting rather than the self-tapping screws to direct water from the downspout to the tank. Screw tips catch and accumulate debris. 3) I’d paint the tank black or wrap it with something decorative but opaque to keep out light so as to prevent the growth of algae. I love your compost tea idea but I would add this in a valve controlled follow on tank with a removable lid rather than in an open basin then I’d attach a gravity-fed drip hose to that second tank to water the garden.
This is a very excellent setup! I'm working on setting up my single IBC tank at my cabin to do water collection, and I really dig the way you did yours. Thank you for the video.
Stack your totes if you have the head room. Same water storage capacity, half the foot print, and much better head pressure. Both tanks can still be connected in the same way. It would be a good idea to consider a little better foundation. I also have found that the less i can reduce the outflow, the better. A 2” valve will fill a bucket very quickly. I find a 3/4” opening, which I can hook a hose too, takes too long to fill a bucket. Also I would want to be able to fill my buckets without taking off the hose, So a manifold of valves would be useful.
Can the totes really be stacked one on top of the pother for this kind of setup? When full with water, wouldn't that be too much weight on the top of the other tote?
Hi EdibleAcres, just watched your video and I'm so thankful for it. My husband and I are not handy at all but we want to install the same system. I think we have an idea now after watching your video. Thank you for showing the step by step process and for taking your time. Also, your voice is so calming and soothing that watching your video is a pleasure. I need to watch your other videos:-)
I have pine trees dropping heaps of needles on my roof that would plug that little screen super fast. My plan is to mount a 5gal bucket to that top hole and have mesh form a deep basket inside. I'll have to clear it out now and then but it should give more surface area for debris to stop while still letting water pass
That can work nicely. Or consider a screen that is in an upward dome shape so it sheds the debris but lets the water through if that makes sense. Half dome screen...
You may consider adding a baffle to slow the water down on the far side of the screen inlet so the water doesn't just shoot across the top of the screen in heavy rain events.
I just recently started harvesting rain water. I’m at beginner level so I’m manually having to pour the water I collect into a much larger container. Tedious but the harvesting is getting done. I want to get one of these totes.
When I saw the title I thought you might be installing this at your place, which would have been hilarious considering the increasing amounts of rain we've had.
Hope you're still out there! Love the vid. I've got the tank but I want an adapter for the top of the IBC tote to connect to a 4 inch corrugated drainage pipe which connects to my gutter downspout. I see you are just letting the water come out of a downspout adapter and over mesh screen and hardware cloth. I guess I'm looking for a more close system at the top of the tank. I'm also filtering the gutter water twice before it gets to the top of the tank and when it leaves the tank for a pressure washer. Seen anything like what I want please share. Thanks again for the great instructional vid.
Won't algae build-up be an issue without painting the totes black or using tarp to shield from light? I used a tarp to cover mine which seems to work OK.
I've read for using water like this on gardens, algae isn't an issue. So, its really a personal preference at this point. I'm going to shade mine and perhaps treat it since we try to grow as close to organic as we can.
I saw engineer775 use a contraption in the in-flow line which catches the initial rush of water when a rain starts and dumps it out. I believe it did this due to the weight of water because after the initial dump it automatically begins delivering water into the barrel. This helps dramatically reduce debris and any pollutants which are washed off a roof, especially a shingle one.
First Flush Diverter... Great concept and certainly worth exploring on a rain water system. This was a simple install and for gardening it didn't seem necessary, but good layer of design to add to a better system for sure.
What's the ideal distance away from the house a tote should be? Dontaes apply lots of pressure on the ground and the house's foundation would that be a danger of the foundation cracking?
I agree. The input breaking down (especially with that low grade flexible plastic) or ending up in the wrong place or detached (depending on the system) is one of the ways I've seen rain barrels fail, sometimes with negative impacts on the structure they're attached to.
This is great, a lot more capacity than the rain barrel I got from my municipality. It would be cool to capture the water that falls on the top of the totes, perhaps drill some drainage holes in the top so it can fall through, and cover the holes with mesh. Just wondering about standing water and mosquitoes, do they not get in through the mesh? Thanks for sharing your process.
In a different video the guy used NYLON STOCKING to filter water into his barrels. It stretches to keep debris at bottom allowing the water to push thru. He occasionally removes flips inside out, cleans nylon then refuses...He said one stocking was on there for 3 years...Also you should installed a 90 degree elbow where gutter enters the tote...because I Noticed a lot of the Overflow was missing the top of the hole...
I just used a simple three way piece... Maybe it was a threaded 3/4" MPT to a barbed T fitting that matched the hose I was using here. 3/4" barb works for hoses with 3/4" internal diameter. If you are using scrap garden hose you may need 5/8" barb... Bring a short section of the hose you want to use to a hardware store and ask!
Hi Sean, Winter freeze protection? Just remove the bottom fittings so water/snow melt can drain out? If not then those brass fittings will have a one season use. Another solution would be to have a second extension downspout to carry water away from the house. Cheers, . Bill
Great question, should have dealt with it in the video... Yes, we extend a hose out away from the house and simply open everything up. Keeps the connections intact and seems to work well.
OK, so this may sound like a dumb question, but what purpose do the cinder blocks serve? The aluminum cage keeps the plastic container off the ground. Is it for ease of maintenance?
There could be value in sheltering the water holding from direct sun in the summer for sure. Winter for us is cold enough that we prefer to fully empty them before late fall
@@edibleacresI live in Arkansas so winters r mild w Jan or Feb getting cold. Last 2 Winters we got pretty cold w city shutting down due to snow. I want to cut 1 & put fish in the bottom & hydroponics in top. I can grow all my nature's salad greens & root veggies in a hot box. I grow herbs, tomatoes, sweet peppers in house under lights. This yr I'm going to do a double wall plastic tunnel & hoping I can grow more in raised beds & put the hydro ibc inside greenhouse. I don't have enough compost to warm it naturally. Fingers crossed sun will work. Temps been getting so extreme last few yrs This season we had 100°F 1sr week of May, killed my pea patch. Then by end of May temps just started getting crazy. Avg June temp is 76 we were 92. When u add heat index a cool night low is 84 w day highs up to 112. No nestable rain since beginning of June. I burned thru 1500 gallon rain water in 3 weeks trying to keep garden going. It's alive but struggling. So hot even the green beans died. Having to water 3 times a day. Researched & found hydroponics uses 8% amount of water from dirt garden. For a country drying up that sounds good plan. But if water gets too hot it'll kill the roots of they just won't develop. I've read u can drop block of ice in the tank, or more realistic him up a water cooler- expensive. Thought with EU also having heat issues perhaps you've tried it have heard of something different. Other than building a 4 season climate controlled greenhouse w >3000 gallon water storage for a family garden not sure what we r all going to do. Specially w America's produce & cattle farms all returning to dust. Last thing I want is for this country to be food dependent from others. Admit the only thing we have going for us right now. Thanks for ur input appreciate it. Stay safe!
Hmmm... you could paint Snoopy and Woodstock on your totes to make them far more effective at being painted like snoopy and Woodstock 🤔. Other than that they are awesome
so to connect the two containers you attached one end of the 'splitter' fitting with a small hose? What sort of hose and how did you find one so short?
Yes to your first question... The connector, (should have filmed this, oh well), is a female to female hose section about 6' long, that is used for connecting a washing machine to a water source. Hardware store, in the section where washers are, would have these...
I think if you watch the video closely towards the second half onward at speak about how to have the two tanks equalize. Rewatch and take a look for it.
do you filter it at all? what about all the sediment that is going to collect in it and contaminate the water? what about bugs, sunlight and mice getting in it?
It is good to let it empty in the fall, and have either the water flow openly through and out or re-direct the downspout entirely around the container.
Have you thought about hot composting in the barn? Where the chickens are at? During winter for heat? If a 3 foot by 3 foot by 3 last about a month. I think you would need about 8 hot composting piles set off in series.. I figure you need 27 square feet or 9 by 9 foot area to do it.
It's a good idea, but for our situation the coop would be tough to build up that high. We do have a deep litter method in there but have to clear it out once or twice during the winter.
Good question. I found that the 't' with one section going up a bit, acts as a way to equalize and release air so the overflow flows way more effectively. Without it the water sometimes doesn't begin to flow and it overflows where I don't want it to...
THANK YOU! Perfect timing!!! Studying this closely! Glad I have come to know how careful you are with your practces so that I can trust you on this! We will be replicating with a 55 gallon drum within days, to catch the upcoming rain in the dry Pacifc Northwest~~~ :) So there is no problem in the tote being so close to the wall of the house? How far over the tote does the roof overhang go? I ask because I wonder how necessary it is for us to have a special foundation to handle one part of our setup (with a 55 gallon barrel as the collector) next to the house under a 1 foot overhang, with the other 2/3 of the barrel under direct rainfall. An important consideration is that this is on the west wall of the house, and our rains come in from west, so basically rainfall is even in this spot, whether under the roof overhang or not. We have cinderblocks, bricks and gravel to use in the foundation, as we think is best. The earth near the foundation is compacted as it usually is under houses built in 1980. What do you suggest be done with the first rain shower that gathers recenty deposited crud from the roof? There are some GREAT suggestions in the comments! Thanks, folks!
I would encourage strongly looking into the ibc tote or a larger container. 55 gallons will overflow almost immediately in any rain (search for rain calculator online to see what to expect)... If you are concerned about how it sits on the ground, you could lay down a 2x10" board of locust, white oak or another dense wood to span under the cinder blocks first, or pack down a hard, dense layer of gravel before you put down the cinder blocks. They could shift a bit over time but we haven't found it to be a major problem.
Thank you. The rain that is coming is predicted to be light.....03 inches which would yield 18 gallons from our roof. That is what we are now preparing for. The summers are dry in the Pacific Northwest. Heavy rains usually start in October, later after dry summers, which this has been ....lots of time to upgrade. We have 2 downspouts, one is next to a concrete patio, where lots of water storage is possible on an existing solid flat surface. We will acquire ibc totes, watching for free ones on Craig’s list now...they do show up now and then. We have collected six 55 gallon drums so far. We will use 3-4 inch overflow pipes. Both collection systems will be set up so that overflow goes through pipes to ponds and swales. There will be devices so that the flow can be diverted to the sewer if necessary. We have lots of gravel for the foundation of the one I discuss here that will sit on the ground. So I take it from your comments below that a first flush diverter is not necessary when we will use the water for the garden?
I didn't. I don't think I would describe it in any way as necessary, but what I think is that some people really thrive with a structured, focused and intensive time to learn, others do well with picking it up and figuring out as they go along. I personally do better with experimenting so that is my path, but many people really appreciate what they get from PDC's, so all the paths are legit depending on who you are and whats available...
Love this idea and thank you for the video. We have 2 empty totes, a large garden, and plenty of animals so I want to do a similar setup near our barn. It is in direct sunlight so would painting it black actually help while waiting for plants to grow? And for the overflow what kind of piece did you use for that? Thank you!
Depending on where you live, painting it black could make the water very hot in the summer sun and potentially bake the paint. Grey or white might be preferable.
One thing I always worry about is how stable the footing is for any kind of rain collection system. You have so much weight there. Will it settle over time? Could it tip over if a child climbed on it? What if it had settled a bit first? I have seen them tip and I have seen them settle significantly. And even a small rain barrel is heavy enough to kill a child who managed to to it over.
Good thing to consider. In this case it is on very stony ground that has been incredibly compacted right next to the house. Doesn't seem like a worry here... BUT very good point you've made and something folks should consider for sure.
I do... My reasoning is that when there is an intense rain I want the water to have a place to go when it's coming in faster than the bottom can equalize between the two tanks. Feels like sound reasoning but I'm open to other ideas as well...
You make another hole in the top of the second tank and let the overflow of the first get in this one with a pipe, and the "real" overflow another hole in the second tank just over this one ?
@@edibleacres This is a great point. I have 2 rain barrels 55 gal. connected by a 10 ft leader hose. I was all excited to try it out cause everyone on UA-cam says this is the way to connect the barrels so they fill and release at the same level. BIG PROBLEM... The primary tank - where the downspout enters the barrel - fills up much faster than the second tank with the hoses attached at the bottom. As a result, a lot of water go out the Primary tanks overflow and back down the city drain. It would be better (but more work) to connect the rain barrels at the top with PVC pipe, maybe 1.5 or 2 inches thick. open to suggestions if there is a better way.
This is a great start - at least you got the ball rolling, and now have more water to use in the garden. It's such an empowering feeling. Coincidentally, I was doing some research on aquaponics recently, and found a video you might glean some ideas from, ua-cam.com/video/K2qoLtvTYN0/v-deo.html Specifically, the filter build for the incoming water, at around 10:28. I'm sure you would have all those components already, and wouldn't need to buy anything extra. Just select the pot size, to fit your IBC opening. That way, you can keep your flexible downpipe inside the tank, and fill it quicker.
I did see someone cover their tanks in black cloth or bags to prevent mildew/green growth inside. They were then able to utilize this as a grid down water source.
Good job and everyone should be doing this. A do have a couple of suggestions: 1) I’d add a first flush eliminator before the storage tank 2) I’d use some kind of plumbing fitting rather than the self-tapping screws to direct water from the downspout to the tank. Screw tips catch and accumulate debris. 3) I’d paint the tank black or wrap it with something decorative but opaque to keep out light so as to prevent the growth of algae. I love your compost tea idea but I would add this in a valve controlled follow on tank with a removable lid rather than in an open basin then I’d attach a gravity-fed drip hose to that second tank to water the garden.
This is a very excellent setup! I'm working on setting up my single IBC tank at my cabin to do water collection, and I really dig the way you did yours. Thank you for the video.
Stack your totes if you have the head room. Same water storage capacity, half the foot print, and much better head pressure. Both tanks can still be connected in the same way. It would be a good idea to consider a little better foundation. I also have found that the less i can reduce the outflow, the better. A 2” valve will fill a bucket very quickly. I find a 3/4” opening, which I can hook a hose too, takes too long to fill a bucket. Also I would want to be able to fill my buckets without taking off the hose, So a manifold of valves would be useful.
Can the totes really be stacked one on top of the pother for this kind of setup? When full with water, wouldn't that be too much weight on the top of the other tote?
kyle Humpherys, if you have a 2-inch valve then how would you attach a garden hose?
Hi EdibleAcres, just watched your video and I'm so thankful for it. My husband and I are not handy at all but we want to install the same system. I think we have an idea now after watching your video. Thank you for showing the step by step process and for taking your time. Also, your voice is so calming and soothing that watching your video is a pleasure. I need to watch your other videos:-)
So very happy to share with ya, best of luck!
I have pine trees dropping heaps of needles on my roof that would plug that little screen super fast. My plan is to mount a 5gal bucket to that top hole and have mesh form a deep basket inside. I'll have to clear it out now and then but it should give more surface area for debris to stop while still letting water pass
That can work nicely. Or consider a screen that is in an upward dome shape so it sheds the debris but lets the water through if that makes sense. Half dome screen...
Great implementation for some simple irrigation collection. I would highly reccomend eye pro when cutting overhead, speaking from experience 😉
Really good point, thank you.
Really great video on rain harvesting. Greetings from Andreas on Off Grid Sweden 🇸🇪
You may consider adding a baffle to slow the water down on the far side of the screen inlet so the water doesn't just shoot across the top of the screen in heavy rain events.
Good call.
I just recently started harvesting rain water. I’m at beginner level so I’m manually having to pour the water I collect into a much larger container. Tedious but the harvesting is getting done. I want to get one of these totes.
Great video!! Thank you so much for sharing all the parts and specific instruction!
Hey of course, happy collecting
When I saw the title I thought you might be installing this at your place, which would have been hilarious considering the increasing amounts of rain we've had.
Hope you're still out there! Love the vid. I've got the tank but I want an adapter for the top of the IBC tote to connect to a 4 inch corrugated drainage pipe which connects to my gutter downspout. I see you are just letting the water come out of a downspout adapter and over mesh screen and hardware cloth. I guess I'm looking for a more close system at the top of the tank. I'm also filtering the gutter water twice before it gets to the top of the tank and when it leaves the tank for a pressure washer. Seen anything like what I want please share. Thanks again for the great instructional vid.
Did you ever find one?
Have you considered trying to shade the Totes, in order to protect the plastic from degrading so quickly?
we'll be planting shrubs next to them in the fall!
I wonder what sort od degredation you expect to see in 50 years.
Won't algae build-up be an issue without painting the totes black or using tarp to shield from light? I used a tarp to cover mine which seems to work OK.
They are tucked in away from most of the direct sun, but yes, could be sheltered more.
seems like algae would be a good thing
Algae is good!
I've read for using water like this on gardens, algae isn't an issue. So, its really a personal preference at this point. I'm going to shade mine and perhaps treat it since we try to grow as close to organic as we can.
I have painted a tote with black spray paint and left a strip un painted to see the level (blue painters tape strip prior to paint)
I saw engineer775 use a contraption in the in-flow line which catches the initial rush of water when a rain starts and dumps it out. I believe it did this due to the weight of water because after the initial dump it automatically begins delivering water into the barrel. This helps dramatically reduce debris and any pollutants which are washed off a roof, especially a shingle one.
First Flush Diverter... Great concept and certainly worth exploring on a rain water system. This was a simple install and for gardening it didn't seem necessary, but good layer of design to add to a better system for sure.
I wish I had seen this video sooner! Thanks for all the how to info.
Hope it serves you well!
What's the ideal distance away from the house a tote should be? Dontaes apply lots of pressure on the ground and the house's foundation would that be a danger of the foundation cracking?
I would make my collector downspout more rigid and permanent. It looks good though.
I agree. The input breaking down (especially with that low grade flexible plastic) or ending up in the wrong place or detached (depending on the system) is one of the ways I've seen rain barrels fail, sometimes with negative impacts on the structure they're attached to.
Grabbed 2 containers $70 each today… former soap containers so will have to rinse them a bit.
Thats a pretty good deal, worth the washing..
Wow! What a great find!
Can the system lead to barrels in the house I don't want any tampering it
I have no experience with that
Can you store the ibc tank right against the house? Or should a concrete platform be built to protect the foundation?
I would give a bit of space from the house to protect...
This is great, a lot more capacity than the rain barrel I got from my municipality. It would be cool to capture the water that falls on the top of the totes, perhaps drill some drainage holes in the top so it can fall through, and cover the holes with mesh. Just wondering about standing water and mosquitoes, do they not get in through the mesh? Thanks for sharing your process.
We have door screen mesh over each hole, so far no problems at all there.
you need one of those wind sock thingies that you put over your microphone when recording audio.
Yeah, I use an old iphone to film so that would be hard, but an upgrade could be worthwhile!
In a different video the guy used NYLON STOCKING to filter water into his barrels. It stretches to keep debris at bottom allowing the water to push thru. He occasionally removes flips inside out, cleans nylon then refuses...He said one stocking was on there for 3 years...Also you should installed a 90 degree elbow where gutter enters the tote...because I Noticed a lot of the Overflow was missing the top of the hole...
Good notes here, thank you for that!
hi there, I was wondering what the name of the overflow piece was and where can you source one? Thanks!
I just used a simple three way piece... Maybe it was a threaded 3/4" MPT to a barbed T fitting that matched the hose I was using here. 3/4" barb works for hoses with 3/4" internal diameter. If you are using scrap garden hose you may need 5/8" barb... Bring a short section of the hose you want to use to a hardware store and ask!
Hi Sean, Winter freeze protection? Just remove the bottom fittings so water/snow melt can drain out? If not then those brass fittings will have a one season use. Another solution would be to have a second extension downspout to carry water away from the house. Cheers, . Bill
Great question, should have dealt with it in the video... Yes, we extend a hose out away from the house and simply open everything up. Keeps the connections intact and seems to work well.
OK, so this may sound like a dumb question, but what purpose do the cinder blocks serve?
The aluminum cage keeps the plastic container off the ground.
Is it for ease of maintenance?
It helps bring it up higher so it can flow faster/further
Is there a way to make water drain in to it without having to connect it to your house I'm trying to keep mine in the bed of my truck
Had anyone insulated their tanks to help w the extreme summer heat or pipes/ hoses for winter- getting water to winter greenhouse?
There could be value in sheltering the water holding from direct sun in the summer for sure. Winter for us is cold enough that we prefer to fully empty them before late fall
@@edibleacresI live in Arkansas so winters r mild w Jan or Feb getting cold. Last 2 Winters we got pretty cold w city shutting down due to snow.
I want to cut 1 & put fish in the bottom & hydroponics in top. I can grow all my nature's salad greens & root veggies in a hot box. I grow herbs, tomatoes, sweet peppers in house under lights. This yr I'm going to do a double wall plastic tunnel & hoping I can grow more in raised beds & put the hydro ibc inside greenhouse. I don't have enough compost to warm it naturally. Fingers crossed sun will work.
Temps been getting so extreme last few yrs
This season we had 100°F 1sr week of May, killed my pea patch. Then by end of May temps just started getting crazy. Avg June temp is 76 we were 92. When u add heat index a cool night low is 84 w day highs up to 112. No nestable rain since beginning of June. I burned thru 1500 gallon rain water in 3 weeks trying to keep garden going. It's alive but struggling. So hot even the green beans died. Having to water 3 times a day.
Researched & found hydroponics uses 8% amount of water from dirt garden. For a country drying up that sounds good plan. But if water gets too hot it'll kill the roots of they just won't develop. I've read u can drop block of ice in the tank, or more realistic him up a water cooler- expensive. Thought with EU also having heat issues perhaps you've tried it have heard of something different.
Other than building a 4 season climate controlled greenhouse w >3000 gallon water storage for a family garden not sure what we r all going to do.
Specially w America's produce & cattle farms all returning to dust. Last thing I want is for this country to be food dependent from others. Admit the only thing we have going for us right now.
Thanks for ur input appreciate it. Stay safe!
Hmmm... you could paint Snoopy and Woodstock on your totes to make them far more effective at being painted like snoopy and Woodstock 🤔. Other than that they are awesome
LOL
so to connect the two containers you attached one end of the 'splitter' fitting with a small hose? What sort of hose and how did you find one so short?
Yes to your first question... The connector, (should have filmed this, oh well), is a female to female hose section about 6' long, that is used for connecting a washing machine to a water source. Hardware store, in the section where washers are, would have these...
@@edibleacres perfect. I think it was clear enough, just wanted to frame the next question. Thanks!
Does one tank fill the second tank? Tanks or sharing
I think if you watch the video closely towards the second half onward at speak about how to have the two tanks equalize. Rewatch and take a look for it.
Hi, why did you put the tote on Cinder block?
Seems really valuable to get it off the ground so it can deliver water further away
gravity
do you filter it at all? what about all the sediment that is going to collect in it and contaminate the water? what about bugs, sunlight and mice getting in it?
this is amazing, thank you for sharing!
Do they leave this setup in tact in the winter? Curious how this would handle ice and freezing.
It is good to let it empty in the fall, and have either the water flow openly through and out or re-direct the downspout entirely around the container.
Have you thought about hot composting in the barn? Where the chickens are at? During winter
for heat?
If a 3 foot by 3 foot by 3 last about a month. I think you would need about 8 hot composting piles
set off in series.. I figure you need 27 square feet or 9 by 9 foot area to do it.
It's a good idea, but for our situation the coop would be tough to build up that high. We do have a deep litter method in there but have to clear it out once or twice during the winter.
Thanks for sharing this! Why does the overflow pipe need to be a "T"? Could it just be a single pipe?
Good question. I found that the 't' with one section going up a bit, acts as a way to equalize and release air so the overflow flows way more effectively. Without it the water sometimes doesn't begin to flow and it overflows where I don't want it to...
Great video! Super helpful!
i love your ductape finger bandage
Helps let me keep working :)
THANK YOU! Perfect timing!!! Studying this closely! Glad I have come to know how careful you are with your practces so that I can trust you on this! We will be replicating with a 55 gallon drum within days, to catch the upcoming rain in the dry Pacifc Northwest~~~ :) So there is no problem in the tote being so close to the wall of the house? How far over the tote does the roof overhang go? I ask because I wonder how necessary it is for us to have a special foundation to handle one part of our setup (with a 55 gallon barrel as the collector) next to the house under a 1 foot overhang, with the other 2/3 of the barrel under direct rainfall. An important consideration is that this is on the west wall of the house, and our rains come in from west, so basically rainfall is even in this spot, whether under the roof overhang or not. We have cinderblocks, bricks and gravel to use in the foundation, as we think is best. The earth near the foundation is compacted as it usually is under houses built in 1980. What do you suggest be done with the first rain shower that gathers recenty deposited crud from the roof? There are some GREAT suggestions in the comments! Thanks, folks!
I would encourage strongly looking into the ibc tote or a larger container. 55 gallons will overflow almost immediately in any rain (search for rain calculator online to see what to expect)... If you are concerned about how it sits on the ground, you could lay down a 2x10" board of locust, white oak or another dense wood to span under the cinder blocks first, or pack down a hard, dense layer of gravel before you put down the cinder blocks. They could shift a bit over time but we haven't found it to be a major problem.
Thank you. The rain that is coming is predicted to be light.....03 inches which would yield 18 gallons from our roof. That is what we are now preparing for. The summers are dry in the Pacific Northwest. Heavy rains usually start in October, later after dry summers, which this has been ....lots of time to upgrade. We have 2 downspouts, one is next to a concrete patio, where lots of water storage is possible on an existing solid flat surface. We will acquire ibc totes, watching for free ones on Craig’s list now...they do show up now and then. We have collected six 55 gallon drums so far. We will use 3-4 inch overflow pipes. Both collection systems will be set up so that overflow goes through pipes to ponds and swales. There will be devices so that the flow can be diverted to the sewer if necessary. We have lots of gravel for the foundation of the one I discuss here that will sit on the ground. So I take it from your comments below that a first flush diverter is not necessary when we will use the water for the garden?
Did you take a permaculture design course? In your opinion, do you think one is necessary with all the information readily Available?
I didn't. I don't think I would describe it in any way as necessary, but what I think is that some people really thrive with a structured, focused and intensive time to learn, others do well with picking it up and figuring out as they go along.
I personally do better with experimenting so that is my path, but many people really appreciate what they get from PDC's, so all the paths are legit depending on who you are and whats available...
On the black cap on the tank what is the pitch size of the valve thread, thanks
I don't have access to that tank at this point, sorry...
So for making the overflow , did you make a 15/16 hole to fit 1” thread barb ?
I believe so, been a while since I've done it, but that sounds right.
One Issue with this type of solution, if first rain come after long period ..then it will take dirt of the roof along with water also go to the tank..
Yep, great point... A 'first flush diverter' would be well worth reseaching and integrating if you are interested. We just didn't get that far!
Great video! Thank you!
Love this idea and thank you for the video. We have 2 empty totes, a large garden, and plenty of animals so I want to do a similar setup near our barn. It is in direct sunlight so would painting it black actually help while waiting for plants to grow? And for the overflow what kind of piece did you use for that? Thank you!
I've read that it helps, but to be honest I haven't tried it..
Depending on where you live, painting it black could make the water very hot in the summer sun and potentially bake the paint. Grey or white might be preferable.
If the tote has a flat bottom you can pitch the cinderblocks towards the drain, incase of a drought you can then use all the water.
as you have found out by now you need to paint them to stop algae growth
One thing I always worry about is how stable the footing is for any kind of rain collection system. You have so much weight there. Will it settle over time? Could it tip over if a child climbed on it? What if it had settled a bit first? I have seen them tip and I have seen them settle significantly. And even a small rain barrel is heavy enough to kill a child who managed to to it over.
Good thing to consider. In this case it is on very stony ground that has been incredibly compacted right next to the house. Doesn't seem like a worry here... BUT very good point you've made and something folks should consider for sure.
How was the two totes connected for filling
One of each split valves is taken up by a short hose that connects the two tanks.
You put the overflow on your receiving tank?
I do... My reasoning is that when there is an intense rain I want the water to have a place to go when it's coming in faster than the bottom can equalize between the two tanks. Feels like sound reasoning but I'm open to other ideas as well...
You make another hole in the top of the second tank and let the overflow of the first get in this one with a pipe, and the "real" overflow another hole in the second tank just over this one ?
@@edibleacres This is a great point. I have 2 rain barrels 55 gal. connected by a 10 ft leader hose. I was all excited to try it out cause everyone on UA-cam says this is the way to connect the barrels so they fill and release at the same level. BIG PROBLEM... The primary tank - where the downspout enters the barrel - fills up much faster than the second tank with the hoses attached at the bottom. As a result, a lot of water go out the Primary tanks overflow and back down the city drain. It would be better (but more work) to connect the rain barrels at the top with PVC pipe, maybe 1.5 or 2 inches thick. open to suggestions if there is a better way.
The ole duct tape bandaid! That. And Superglue to heal a wound!
This is a great start - at least you got the ball rolling, and now have more water to use in the garden. It's such an empowering feeling. Coincidentally, I was doing some research on aquaponics recently, and found a video you might glean some ideas from, ua-cam.com/video/K2qoLtvTYN0/v-deo.html
Specifically, the filter build for the incoming water, at around 10:28. I'm sure you would have all those components already, and wouldn't need to buy anything extra. Just select the pot size, to fit your IBC opening. That way, you can keep your flexible downpipe inside the tank, and fill it quicker.
I did see someone cover their tanks in black cloth or bags to prevent mildew/green growth inside. They were then able to utilize this as a grid down water source.
We're planning to add some nice shade bearing plants to this setup sometime soon to help protect it.
Thank you!
There are 4 ststes where this is illegal. Just a warning.
Commiefornia is one I’m sure.
I have extra IBC totes
just place over flow lower... and level is NOT important. in otherwords, find that lowest level of the totes, and place the overflow just below it.
I heard you say the word "Fidding" several times. What does "Fidding" mean?
Probably me saying 'fitting' in a very mumbly way :)