Thanks for the video! This is most helpful. A mistake that I made in this process, and later found to be a common issue, is over tightening the bleed screw on the aluminum fuel filter housing. This is the housing that you refer to as "primary" that some have noted in the comments is sometimes refered to as "secondary". At any rate, it's the one that you tapped open and closed with a screwdriver. Since that housing is made of aluminum, it's easy to strip the threads by over tightening the steel bleed screws. Thought I'd throw this out there for fellow newbs such as myself who may be doing this job for the first time. Thanks again for the fantastic video!!
This was an excellent how to video! The person who buys your used equipment is doing well. I like premeasuring my oil before I add it to the engine or transmission when using a bigger jug. You can buy a plastic quart cup with calibration on the side at most hardware stores that works well for this. Many small places that sell paint will just give you one. This isn't necessary, but makes the job a little easier. Thanks for the great video!
hi guys, greetings from Italy! I was determined to hire someone to do the job, but after watching your video I feel more confident to do it myself. Thanks a lot!
You're very welcome. If you're going to be working on a boat, Italy sounds like a nice place to be doing it. I'm glad the video helped you complete the work yourself.
I haven't noticed the replacement of the primary fuel filter - the author replaced only secondary one while simply draining the primary filter (what for?) Also recommend to show de-aeration of the whole fuel pipeline when the primary filter is being replaced.
I actually said the engine mounted was primary in the video but changed it on the thumbnail. I've always thought of the first one in the system to be secondary. My reasoning is that, the engine mounted one will filter out the smallest material. If the larger micron fails, the smaller micron (engine mounted) will still provide all the required filtration. If the smaller micron filter was gone however, it would allow too large of particles into the fuel system. However, I've seen conflicting information on the Yanmar site, other engine manufacturers, and fuel filter manufacturers. Some list the smaller one as primary, some the larger one. Niemec Marine, where I purchased the kit, lists the smaller micron filter as secondary so I changed it in the thumbnail.Sorry for the confusion. Hope the video helped.
Thanks for your video - this and your previous one gave me the confidence to go ahead and service the engine on my new (to me) hunter 326 and it all worked like a charm. So thanks. Am I right in thinking that the little fuel lift pump is almost totally ineffective - it didn't seem to be doing anything for me?
James Wickham Thank you so much for the comment. I'm glad it's helping save you the cost of hiring someone. There is something great from doing it yourself. The fuel pump is actually pumping the same amount of fuel each push. The difference is, when the engine is running it's pumping fuel 1000 times a minute or so depending on how fast your starter cranks. When you're manually doing pumping, it will take a lot longer to push the same amount of fuel through.
When you open the decompression levers to turn the engine you mention to turn off seawater intake to avoid watering the engine. I was wondering what that means and how it happens. The engine has a two coolant system, so how would taking in excess sea water affect the coolant water cycle and end up watering the engine?
Excellent question. The engine has to be running to push the exhaust and water out of the engine. But the engine only has to be turning to suck up water. When you turn the engine without actually starting it you are sucking up seawater but it isn't leaving the system. The same thing can happen if you're having problems starting your engine and you just keep engaging the starter. You are effectively drowning your engine. If you suck up enough water you can hydrolock your engine. Once it is filled with water the engine won't turn because water is non-compressable. If you continue to try and start after that you can severely destroy the engine. Its not something you normally have to worry about. If your engine starts in the first few tries it shouldn't be an issue. If you've attempted to start 3 times I would start looking for the problem. If you aren't planning on the engine starting, like bleeding, keep the seacock closed to alleviate hydrolock. Hope this helps and thanks for watching.
@@Unwrittentimeline thanks for the answer. I don’t quite get it, though. So the sea water comes in and builds up at the exhaust end, because the motor does not generate exhaust to push it out. But since it’s the separate coolant water circle that is in touch with the engine, how does that sea water ever get into the motor?
@@JohannesNeumeier it backfills the cylinders. Water will be drawn into the engine exhaust system through the water pump through the heat exchanger and into the exhaust elbow. Without the pressure of the exhaust, it will fill up the riser or muffler then build-up to the cylinders with raw water. It will make its way into the internal combustion chamber the way exhaust makes it's way out. You are correct that raw water does not cool the engine on a freshwater system, but it can backfill.
Check you manual... the engine-mounted filter is actually the secondary filter. The primary fuel filter is the big one mounted on the boat. You have it exactly backwards, here.
The Rotella T4 15W-40 will be just fine for the Florida area and almost any area except very cold areas. Then you may want to look at a T6 5W-40 type of oil. Your gearbox oil will depend on which type of gearbox you have. For the KMH40A/50A/50V (most common with Yanmars) it is recommended in the manual to utilize API (American Petroleum Institute) service grade: Class CF or higher • Viscosity: SAE 30 • Recommended oil: Yanmar Marine Super Oil SAE 30 (I use Rotella just fine). NOTICE: ALWAYS use the specified SAE 30 oil. NEVER use gear oil or ATF in KMH marine gears. NEVER use multi-grade oil or mix oil types. You will use a monograde oil for the gearbox, but I have seen SAE20 recommended on some gearboxes. If you are unsure what model and don't have the original documentation for your gearbox I would recommend the SAE30. Good luck with your service and thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video. I have the same engine on a Hunter 310. I have been having trouble with the starting. Press the button and hear clicking. It usually starts after a few attempts. I have been reading that this is common yanmar issue. Some people have said that the wiring used is to light a gauge. Have you face this issue? If so, do you have a video on it? Thanks John.
John Riggs thanks for watching. Unfortunately I have a similar problem as well but have not tackled that problem yet as it still starts at least 80% of the time. I do believe it is a current loss which comes from the minimum diameter wire being used at manufacture. Then as the boat ages the wire degrades leaving us with the intermittent starting. At first I thought it was the start switch so I bypassed that and still had issues. I then jumped the starter at the starter solenoid and never had it not turn over. So I do believe it is a wiring issue. It is not a complicated fix but running wire in a sailboat is never a good time. Let us know if you decide to tackle that problem. Perhaps I'll get around to it someday.
@@Unwrittentimeline I think that it can be the primary wire resistance but more likely the HD switch in the solenoid that actually connects 12V to the starter motor. This gets beat up from the arcing that happens each time it engages and releases. Not sure if that can be replaced separately or a whole new solenoid is required.
Hi! Great video. This is probably a stupid question but do you open the fuel valve when you are bleeding it? You turned the fuel off at the tank in the beginning of the video but I didn't see you turn it back on. Thanks.
Yes. On top of the engine mounted fuel filter there is a bleed screw. The next point is also a screw below the fuel filter. The points on the injectors are nuts. You'll need to open these points and pump fuel through the system until you get a steady stream. If it's completely dry you'll see a small trickle then a stream with bubbles then a steady stream of fuel. If your system doesn't have that much you may be able to get away with just bleeding one point. Usually you have to start from the closest point to the fuel tank, the bulkhead mounted fuel filter. Make sure this is full and you have a steady stream coming out of the top bleed bolt then proceed to the rest of the system. Good luck.
Hi, enjoyed the videos! We just bought a boat with a 2gm20f yanmar. I want to change the fuel filters, belts, and air filter (previous owner changed the oil and oil filter before putting it on the hard last fall). What is the part number for the primary filter (larger micron) and where did you find it? As you say, it's not in the minor maintenance kit, and I don't see it listed at marinedieselparts.com. Thanks
SV Hidden Hand. Congratulations on the new boat purchase. The engine mounted filter is Part number YAN104500-55710 and comes in the kit. The primary screw on filter is a Racor R12T, a 10 micron fuel filter. You can buy them at West Marine for $27.99 plus shipping or $24.00 with free shipping with Amazon at amzn.to/2nEcgug Most chandlaries will carry them if you just pick it up on the way to your boat. The service manual recommends inspection and cleaning of the engine mounted fuel filter every 50 hours and replacement every 250. That is also a good time to check for water in the primary fuel filter. I usually change both filters every 250 hours or yearly, but many people get away with changing the primary every 500 hours. I figure my piece of mind is worth $24.00. Hope this helps. Feel free to comment with any other questions or if you find a better way to do something.
That helps a lot! Thank you. I didn't know to look for Racor. The engine only has 800 hours, but the previous owner said he changed both filters every spring, so that's what I'll do too. And from you videos, I'm confident I can change them and the belts and impeller. Thanks so much!!!
This video does cover not only manual bleeding with the mechanical pump but bleeding by using the decompression levers. I touch the pump and demonstrate the decompression levers. I also explain the fuel flow from tank to compression. It starts around 07:24. I'm not sure what else I can do short of running a microscopic camera through the fuel plumbing system.
This made sense until you bled the engine. So you pump the fuel until you see it coming though the screw?? (at the 9:05 mark). That doesn't make any sense. How is fuel going to come through a metal screw that's locked on. Do you loosen it? You didn't show this happening so it's really not clear what you are talking about.
Yes you are correct. You will need to loosen the screws when you bleed the system. You don't need to remove the screws just loosen a couple turns. You will see fuel with bubbles first then a stead stream of just fuel with no air. When you have only fuel coming from the bleed screw you tighten the screw. Then you know you have all the air out of the system up to that point. Thanks for watching.
![Yanmar Diesel 30YM30AE - Oil Change & Fuel Filters on Beneteau 35 Sailboat [Detailed Video]](/img/n.gif)
Thanks for the video! This is most helpful. A mistake that I made in this process, and later found to be a common issue, is over tightening the bleed screw on the aluminum fuel filter housing. This is the housing that you refer to as "primary" that some have noted in the comments is sometimes refered to as "secondary". At any rate, it's the one that you tapped open and closed with a screwdriver. Since that housing is made of aluminum, it's easy to strip the threads by over tightening the steel bleed screws. Thought I'd throw this out there for fellow newbs such as myself who may be doing this job for the first time. Thanks again for the fantastic video!!
Thanks for watching and great feedback.
Nice thorough explanation thanks
You're welcome. Glad it could help.
Would have liked to see the fuel bleeding process from start to finish but nice video well done
This was an excellent how to video! The person who buys your used equipment is doing well. I like premeasuring my oil before I add it to the engine or transmission when using a bigger jug. You can buy a plastic quart cup with calibration on the side at most hardware stores that works well for this. Many small places that sell paint will just give you one. This isn't necessary, but makes the job a little easier. Thanks for the great video!
Excellent idea about pre-measuring the fluids. That would make it easier.
Thanks for watching.
hi guys, greetings from Italy! I was determined to hire someone to do the job, but after watching your video I feel more confident to do it myself. Thanks a lot!
You're very welcome. If you're going to be working on a boat, Italy sounds like a nice place to be doing it. I'm glad the video helped you complete the work yourself.
Super clever with the holes in the filter
Thanks. It helps keep all the oil in the filter from spilling everywhere when you take it off.
Thanks for the video, only one that mentioned the transmission oil change and secondary filter
Thanks for watching. I hope it helped.
Thanks for the help with getting these dirty filters replaced! Just bought a Hunter 380 and I think I am going to learn a lot from your channel.
SV Nordic Star Congratulations on the new boat and thanks for the compliment.
Hello, greating from Turkey .Great vid. Thank you .
Wow, Turkey, that's awesome! Thank you for watching and the feed back! We hope to travel to Turkey one day.
I haven't noticed the replacement of the primary fuel filter - the author replaced only secondary one while simply draining the primary filter (what for?) Also recommend to show de-aeration of the whole fuel pipeline when the primary filter is being replaced.
Nice job thank you!
clear, direct and precise, excellent video, Cheers.
Thanks for the compliments. Glad you liked it.
Thank you for posting this!
leifkav hope it helped you a little.
Keep up the good work
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Fantastic demo!
I don't think you reminded folks to turn the water intake back on. That would be my only suggestion.
Great catch. Thank you for your comment.
Thanks for sharing these great videos!
No problem man, glad to do it. Hopefully they'll help.
Great video. Thanks.
Glad you liked it!
Great vid. Thank you. Now I understand what I did wrong on my 2GM!
You're welcome, I hope it helps. Thanks for watching.
By the way, isn't the primary fuel filter the one that fuel goes through first? I thought the fine filter mounted to the engine is the secondary....
I actually said the engine mounted was primary in the video but changed it on the thumbnail. I've always thought of the first one in the system to be secondary. My reasoning is that, the engine mounted one will filter out the smallest material. If the larger micron fails, the smaller micron (engine mounted) will still provide all the required filtration. If the smaller micron filter was gone however, it would allow too large of particles into the fuel system. However, I've seen conflicting information on the Yanmar site, other engine manufacturers, and fuel filter manufacturers. Some list the smaller one as primary, some the larger one. Niemec Marine, where I purchased the kit, lists the smaller micron filter as secondary so I changed it in the thumbnail.Sorry for the confusion. Hope the video helped.
Good luck
Great video thanks, no BS
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it.
Thanks for your video - this and your previous one gave me the confidence to go ahead and service the engine on my new (to me) hunter 326 and it all worked like a charm. So thanks. Am I right in thinking that the little fuel lift pump is almost totally ineffective - it didn't seem to be doing anything for me?
James Wickham Thank you so much for the comment. I'm glad it's helping save you the cost of hiring someone. There is something great from doing it yourself. The fuel pump is actually pumping the same amount of fuel each push. The difference is, when the engine is running it's pumping fuel 1000 times a minute or so depending on how fast your starter cranks. When you're manually doing pumping, it will take a lot longer to push the same amount of fuel through.
Great video... Noticed you have a Hunter 29.5...about to buy one... Any thoughts... Advice?
We had a 326. It was a nice boat and we loved sailing her. As long as it's maintained well you'll have a great time.
Thanks for watching.
Good job dear
Do you change the transmission oil every time you change the motor oil ?
When you open the decompression levers to turn the engine you mention to turn off seawater intake to avoid watering the engine. I was wondering what that means and how it happens. The engine has a two coolant system, so how would taking in excess sea water affect the coolant water cycle and end up watering the engine?
Excellent question. The engine has to be running to push the exhaust and water out of the engine. But the engine only has to be turning to suck up water. When you turn the engine without actually starting it you are sucking up seawater but it isn't leaving the system. The same thing can happen if you're having problems starting your engine and you just keep engaging the starter. You are effectively drowning your engine.
If you suck up enough water you can hydrolock your engine. Once it is filled with water the engine won't turn because water is non-compressable. If you continue to try and start after that you can severely destroy the engine.
Its not something you normally have to worry about. If your engine starts in the first few tries it shouldn't be an issue. If you've attempted to start 3 times I would start looking for the problem. If you aren't planning on the engine starting, like bleeding, keep the seacock closed to alleviate hydrolock.
Hope this helps and thanks for watching.
@@Unwrittentimeline thanks for the answer. I don’t quite get it, though. So the sea water comes in and builds up at the exhaust end, because the motor does not generate exhaust to push it out. But since it’s the separate coolant water circle that is in touch with the engine, how does that sea water ever get into the motor?
@@JohannesNeumeier it backfills the cylinders. Water will be drawn into the engine exhaust system through the water pump through the heat exchanger and into the exhaust elbow. Without the pressure of the exhaust, it will fill up the riser or muffler then build-up to the cylinders with raw water. It will make its way into the internal combustion chamber the way exhaust makes it's way out.
You are correct that raw water does not cool the engine on a freshwater system, but it can backfill.
nothing can go wrong if you use tripple protection oil
Nice video. Just a sidenote, you spelled 'change' wrong in your title, it's easy to fix that after the fact.
Nice catch man.
Well then video. Do you have and have the oil specs and the fluid specs for the engine and transmission?
I have to say to always check your owners manual if you have it but the engine oil should be a 15W40 and the transmission should be straight W30.
thanks sir.
SELVARAJ
Check you manual... the engine-mounted filter is actually the secondary filter. The primary fuel filter is the big one mounted on the boat. You have it exactly backwards, here.
Thanks for video. I have a Yanmar 3HM35F . Can I use Rotella T4 SAE 15W-40 for engine in Florida? What oil did you use for gearbox?
The Rotella T4 15W-40 will be just fine for the Florida area and almost any area except very cold areas. Then you may want to look at a T6 5W-40 type of oil.
Your gearbox oil will depend on which type of gearbox you have. For the KMH40A/50A/50V (most common with Yanmars) it is recommended in the manual to utilize API (American Petroleum Institute) service grade: Class CF or higher
• Viscosity: SAE 30
• Recommended oil: Yanmar Marine Super Oil SAE 30 (I use Rotella just fine).
NOTICE: ALWAYS use the specified SAE 30 oil. NEVER use gear oil or ATF in KMH marine gears. NEVER use multi-grade oil or mix oil types.
You will use a monograde oil for the gearbox, but I have seen SAE20 recommended on some gearboxes. If you are unsure what model and don't have the original documentation for your gearbox I would recommend the SAE30.
Good luck with your service and thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video. I have the same engine on a Hunter 310. I have been having trouble with the starting. Press the button and hear clicking. It usually starts after a few attempts. I have been reading that this is common yanmar issue. Some people have said that the wiring used is to light a gauge. Have you face this issue? If so, do you have a video on it? Thanks John.
John Riggs thanks for watching. Unfortunately I have a similar problem as well but have not tackled that problem yet as it still starts at least 80% of the time. I do believe it is a current loss which comes from the minimum diameter wire being used at manufacture. Then as the boat ages the wire degrades leaving us with the intermittent starting. At first I thought it was the start switch so I bypassed that and still had issues. I then jumped the starter at the starter solenoid and never had it not turn over. So I do believe it is a wiring issue. It is not a complicated fix but running wire in a sailboat is never a good time.
Let us know if you decide to tackle that problem. Perhaps I'll get around to it someday.
@@Unwrittentimeline I think that it can be the primary wire resistance but more likely the HD switch in the solenoid that actually connects 12V to the starter motor. This gets beat up from the arcing that happens each time it engages and releases. Not sure if that can be replaced separately or a whole new solenoid is required.
What is the part number on that oil filter please?
YAN119305-35170
All part numbers used are in the description. Thanks for watching.
Hi! Great video. This is probably a stupid question but do you open the fuel valve when you are bleeding it? You turned the fuel off at the tank in the beginning of the video but I didn't see you turn it back on. Thanks.
Yes, the fuel is turned back on. I should have shown that, but forgot to put it in. Thanks for catching it.
Yes, the fuel is turned back on. I should have shown that, but forgot to put it in. Thanks for catching it.
Yes, the fuel is turned back on. I should have shown that, but forgot to put it in. Thanks for catching it.
Awesome! Thanks for your help.
Anytime. Glad the video helped.
hi,
so when bleeding thesystem, did you slacken any nuts?
Yes. On top of the engine mounted fuel filter there is a bleed screw. The next point is also a screw below the fuel filter. The points on the injectors are nuts. You'll need to open these points and pump fuel through the system until you get a steady stream. If it's completely dry you'll see a small trickle then a stream with bubbles then a steady stream of fuel. If your system doesn't have that much you may be able to get away with just bleeding one point. Usually you have to start from the closest point to the fuel tank, the bulkhead mounted fuel filter. Make sure this is full and you have a steady stream coming out of the top bleed bolt then proceed to the rest of the system.
Good luck.
Hi, enjoyed the videos! We just bought a boat with a 2gm20f yanmar. I want to change the fuel filters, belts, and air filter (previous owner changed the oil and oil filter before putting it on the hard last fall). What is the part number for the primary filter (larger micron) and where did you find it? As you say, it's not in the minor maintenance kit, and I don't see it listed at marinedieselparts.com. Thanks
SV Hidden Hand. Congratulations on the new boat purchase. The engine mounted filter is Part number YAN104500-55710 and comes in the kit. The primary screw on filter is a Racor R12T, a 10 micron fuel filter. You can buy them at West Marine for $27.99 plus shipping or $24.00 with free shipping with Amazon at amzn.to/2nEcgug
Most chandlaries will carry them if you just pick it up on the way to your boat. The service manual recommends inspection and cleaning of the engine mounted fuel filter every 50 hours and replacement every 250. That is also a good time to check for water in the primary fuel filter. I usually change both filters every 250 hours or yearly, but many people get away with changing the primary every 500 hours. I figure my piece of mind is worth $24.00.
Hope this helps. Feel free to comment with any other questions or if you find a better way to do something.
That helps a lot! Thank you. I didn't know to look for Racor. The engine only has 800 hours, but the previous owner said he changed both filters every spring, so that's what I'll do too. And from you videos, I'm confident I can change them and the belts and impeller. Thanks so much!!!
None of these videos show these bleeding process with the mechanical lifter.
This video does cover not only manual bleeding with the mechanical pump but bleeding by using the decompression levers. I touch the pump and demonstrate the decompression levers. I also explain the fuel flow from tank to compression. It starts around 07:24. I'm not sure what else I can do short of running a microscopic camera through the fuel plumbing system.
This made sense until you bled the engine. So you pump the fuel until you see it coming though the screw?? (at the 9:05 mark). That doesn't make any sense. How is fuel going to come through a metal screw that's locked on. Do you loosen it? You didn't show this happening so it's really not clear what you are talking about.
Yes you are correct. You will need to loosen the screws when you bleed the system. You don't need to remove the screws just loosen a couple turns. You will see fuel with bubbles first then a stead stream of just fuel with no air. When you have only fuel coming from the bleed screw you tighten the screw. Then you know you have all the air out of the system up to that point.
Thanks for watching.
@@Unwrittentimeline This helped me a lot!
@@jpsparkful glad it helped. Thanks for watching.