You are very correct to suspect expansion and slippage issues. Vice versa, too much and you can varnish the clutch packs. I actually was monitoring the shift points and heartbeat with an Autel scanner we had at the Chrysler shop, and drove with for a bit. We are aware of the expansion issues with trans fluid. This was good with that. The fluid was newer, within a month change. You'll see the videos in our playlist, but dates might not have been released the same. We recently tore down the 42RE, found some issues with faulty solenoid pack. Changed both and was good. Found an issue in the right rear axle seal and we had to change the gear fluid out front and back after the flood and river bank overflow. The GC got flooded. We had it torn apart last summer. She is on the road right now. A friend, firefighter has her now. Be we have tons of stock video yet to go through. The transfer case was also done. We have had a bugger of a time with an older Acura MDX and it's tranny. But it had a cracked case. That car really shows expansion if there is little in it, and the clutch packs were varnished. That one with be on the road soon. We did save the Acura using Trans tune, and several flushes. But we had a rad rupture, and antifreeze mixed in the transmission prior.
@@TechReviewbyIrdi Good idea or bad idea to pump out 1 quart at a time every month until it is totally new from the dip stick tube? I'm scared to change and flush because of slipping issues with a fresh change.
The newer stuff will be grittier. The viscosity is going to be higher. The biggest issues folks don't know is that if they are low or to high prior, or even old, the reaction to clutch packs are either varnishing or chopping. Which is slipping or shuttering. But if your just changing on a healthy maintenance note, you can either change in one day or any pace that makes it comfortable. If you do it in one day or a few, drive it to circulate the fluid. That's what I did more this one. But if you stretch it there is less noticeable difference to the fluid. The longer in between, the less dramatic the change since it will mix to a larger volume. So a quicker change may be better for a full fluid change.
@@leohanover3678 Yes, sparingly at first. Test it as you add and oz or 2 oz at a time and run it for viscosity changes. It will affect that, and it will also swell any seals. I personally would add for a while and then flush it fully down the road. I currently still have the Jeep. And it's been recently flushed and improved it above what this video entails. Yes, it's mixes with ATF+4.
@@TechReviewbyIrdi thanks. I have no codes or hard shifting. Just 192k well kept car. Only problem is I thought trans was good for life(I'm dumb). I have never added any(although I do check levels every 2 weeks). Color is brownish pink and I was thinking of dropping pan and doing a change not flush!...thanks again, I was worried about atf4
Need help. Long read ahead. I have a 1988 Honda Civic EF 1.3 automatic. I got the transmission changed in May last year because the previous transmission wasn't engaging from the 2nd gear to the 3rd gear. The new (second hand) transmission was fine then it started to show some lag when put in 'drive' (when the engine was cold). I was using the original Honda Transmission Fluid. Slowly that problem got worse and I'd have to keep the car running for about 10 minutes early in the morning and only then 'drive' will respond. I was advised by a local mechanic to change to Amsoil Transmission fluid as he mentioned it has additives and I did. A) First Amsoil Transmission fluid change. It showed improvements like the 'drive' gear engaging right after I started up the car but it would only coast in drive, stepping on the accelerator didn't have any response. I'd have to warm up the engine for maybe 3-4 minutes and would be able to drive off with no issues. I noticed with each passing week, I'd have to warm up the engine longer for the drive gear to engage. The problem came back in full swing after 3 months with newer symptoms. After warming up for about 10 minutes and driving off, the engine would have to rev up to 3k or even 4k in a very struggling manner and it would sound as though the engine has to work way harder to get from the first gear to the second gear. But once at operating temperature, the transmission works just fine and smooth but it would slip sometimes. This new symptom showed up after having driven the car for about 5k miles since the Amsoil Transmission fluid change. B) Second Amsoil Transmission fluid change. So I changed the fluid again and things got better than they were towards the end of 5k mileage of the first Amsoil fluid change. I drove another 5k miles and have another new symptom. The reverse gear won't engage when the engine is cold. So I'd have to keep the engine running for about 5 minutes for the reverse gear to engage and about 10 minutes for drive gear to engage with the current trans fluid. But, in order for first to second gear to shift smoothly, id have to run the engine for about 15 minutes (reach operating temperature). 15 minutes does the trick and the car runs just fine the whole day (absolutely smooth like a new car I'd say). But if I leave the car parked for a few hours, I'd have to run the engine for about 2-3 minutes for the gears to engage. This is the current situation I'm in. So basically I have three problems: 1) Drive gear won't engage if car isn't warmed up. 2) First gear going into second struggles a lot if not sufficiently warmed up. 3) Reverse gear won't engage if the engine is not warmed up for 5 minutes. My question is: Would Lucas Transmission Fix be effective in helping me with this issue if I were to just top it up with current Amsoil Transmission fluid? Any help that comes my way is very much appreciated. It's the only car I have and I absolutely love this car. Thank you so much.
That sounds like the seals and expansion to heat issues. If it catches once heat starts to warm the fluid, viscosity also changes with the expansion. It's really the seals doing this. The seals within the transmission have hardened where they leak until things inside the transmission heat up and expand and then the transmission shifts normally. The reverse is separate but shares the seals on that side. Catches differently until the seal expands. It's usually a rebuild with new seals.
@@TechReviewbyIrdi I see. I guess I don't have much of a choice than to do a proper repair on it. Thank you so much for the very detailed explanation. I really appreciate it. 😊👍🏼👍🏼
When we rebuilt the engine block on this one everything was done to tolerance torque specs by the Chrysler book not from some mechanic that usually just puts it together slaps it together to a close tolerance. It will just keep on running even with a hole in the block.
I will be bringing her back home soon we had some welding to do on the axles. We've totally redone the rear suspension including the control arm and ball joint. And we had some rust issues happening on the inner panels that had to be repaired but she'll be back on the road within a month. And yes the transmission is still rocking!
It's still rock'n. I'm going to be doing a flush. Initially, I was trying to re-swell the seals internally to begin with. That being said, I have flushed some out since and it was even better than in the video.
You should start it, but stay cold and don't let it get too warm. Trans fluid expands when heated. So if you add it when it's hotter it could be off a little since your adding room temp fluid. Just start it cold, and add then to make sure.
Not sure, depends on transmission model. But may. You want to narrow it down by the year. Sounds like a shift solenoid as well. Hard to know without the physical experience. But it should hurt that I know. You have to displace what you drain out. Some transmissions are sensitive on fluid level. If it feels like it's just a slip, then see what the Lucas can do. Otherwise I'd check the OBDII codes for any hidden trans solenoids. Starting points at least. I hope that helps a little.
Hey, my 2001 jeep grand Cherokee, slipping when it cold, I have changed filter n one of the sensor the black one, once warm up it stop slipping. Any recommendations? Hope u reply, thanks. Same 42re trans
So my lancer ralliart 2004 I believe is slipping on third and fourth gear, once it gets to third it kind of just revs and doesn’t speed up until I let go of the gas and the press on it again quickly then it goes up a gear I believe, would this help my problem?
TRU L. I fixed it turns out the previous owner right when I bought it hadn’t put the coolant cap on properly and my car was running hot and misfiring but I’m glad I fixed it
Thanks sir I have 2007 Mazda 5 before it won’t run but when I filled new fluid and Lucas it now she run, while running the car it has some heavy heating sound sometimes What problem could be?
Not to sure, could be a whole bunch of things related. well you have it running, I would have someone look at it. That still is the best thing you can do next.
I have 2006 Chevrolet Suburban 1500 it shifts til it goes to 3 an 4th gear it's like it's not there at all it's just revs up engine and dont go until I put it in 2nd gear to drive it is this a problem lucas could help
The transmission in that suburban, the 4l60e, is notorious for its 3-4 slippage and failure. I have the same transmission in my silverado and its doing the same thing, I've put this lucas in and it doesn't seem to have made any improvement. I think I need to drive it more to really see, this stuff needs to circulate.
@@TH3C001 how did it go? I have a Chevy Impala slipping badly. My drive gear only works when my car is warmed up then it shifts normally until I have to stop again.
Transmission wouldn't go unless I warm it up about 10 minutes and put it in gear then there would be no problem. Elsa and Lucas to it and I changed the filter on the side of the transmission it runs just fine thanks for the video
Didn't work on my cls320 cdi 3rd gear slippage... unfortunatlly....but for the cost it always worths a try
Still rock'n to date.
Hi it work on my 1996 rav4
Can you mention some case which could be related in this issue
I’ll be appreciate
Always a possibility too, that your fluid was low and Lucas expands more and you're adding more fluid, old fluid doesn't expand very well.
You are very correct to suspect expansion and slippage issues. Vice versa, too much and you can varnish the clutch packs. I actually was monitoring the shift points and heartbeat with an Autel scanner we had at the Chrysler shop, and drove with for a bit. We are aware of the expansion issues with trans fluid. This was good with that. The fluid was newer, within a month change. You'll see the videos in our playlist, but dates might not have been released the same. We recently tore down the 42RE, found some issues with faulty solenoid pack. Changed both and was good. Found an issue in the right rear axle seal and we had to change the gear fluid out front and back after the flood and river bank overflow. The GC got flooded. We had it torn apart last summer. She is on the road right now. A friend, firefighter has her now. Be we have tons of stock video yet to go through. The transfer case was also done. We have had a bugger of a time with an older Acura MDX and it's tranny. But it had a cracked case. That car really shows expansion if there is little in it, and the clutch packs were varnished. That one with be on the road soon. We did save the Acura using Trans tune, and several flushes. But we had a rad rupture, and antifreeze mixed in the transmission prior.
@@TechReviewbyIrdi Good idea or bad idea to pump out 1 quart at a time every month until it is totally new from the dip stick tube? I'm scared to change and flush because of slipping issues with a fresh change.
The newer stuff will be grittier. The viscosity is going to be higher. The biggest issues folks don't know is that if they are low or to high prior, or even old, the reaction to clutch packs are either varnishing or chopping. Which is slipping or shuttering. But if your just changing on a healthy maintenance note, you can either change in one day or any pace that makes it comfortable. If you do it in one day or a few, drive it to circulate the fluid. That's what I did more this one. But if you stretch it there is less noticeable difference to the fluid. The longer in between, the less dramatic the change since it will mix to a larger volume. So a quicker change may be better for a full fluid change.
Worked good on my jeep today, poured half bottle with fresh oil
Cool. Still running myself.
@@TechReviewbyIrdi hey how do u reset the TV cable on the throttle body, can u do a video on it. 2001 jeep grand Cherokee Laredo
@@TechReviewbyIrdi i have 2012 dodge avenger. Is lucas safe for atf4 transmission oil?
@@leohanover3678 Yes, sparingly at first. Test it as you add and oz or 2 oz at a time and run it for viscosity changes. It will affect that, and it will also swell any seals. I personally would add for a while and then flush it fully down the road. I currently still have the Jeep. And it's been recently flushed and improved it above what this video entails. Yes, it's mixes with ATF+4.
@@TechReviewbyIrdi thanks. I have no codes or hard shifting. Just 192k well kept car. Only problem is I thought trans was good for life(I'm dumb). I have never added any(although I do check levels every 2 weeks). Color is brownish pink and I was thinking of dropping pan and doing a change not flush!...thanks again, I was worried about atf4
Small vehicle do not need the whole bottle start with half if it works STOP safe the rest for another vehicle or your next change
Need help. Long read ahead. I have a 1988 Honda Civic EF 1.3 automatic. I got the transmission changed in May last year because the previous transmission wasn't engaging from the 2nd gear to the 3rd gear. The new (second hand) transmission was fine then it started to show some lag when put in 'drive' (when the engine was cold). I was using the original Honda Transmission Fluid. Slowly that problem got worse and I'd have to keep the car running for about 10 minutes early in the morning and only then 'drive' will respond. I was advised by a local mechanic to change to Amsoil Transmission fluid as he mentioned it has additives and I did.
A) First Amsoil Transmission fluid change.
It showed improvements like the 'drive' gear engaging right after I started up the car but it would only coast in drive, stepping on the accelerator didn't have any response. I'd have to warm up the engine for maybe 3-4 minutes and would be able to drive off with no issues. I noticed with each passing week, I'd have to warm up the engine longer for the drive gear to engage. The problem came back in full swing after 3 months with newer symptoms. After warming up for about 10 minutes and driving off, the engine would have to rev up to 3k or even 4k in a very struggling manner and it would sound as though the engine has to work way harder to get from the first gear to the second gear. But once at operating temperature, the transmission works just fine and smooth but it would slip sometimes. This new symptom showed up after having driven the car for about 5k miles since the Amsoil Transmission fluid change.
B) Second Amsoil Transmission fluid change.
So I changed the fluid again and things got better than they were towards the end of 5k mileage of the first Amsoil fluid change. I drove another 5k miles and have another new symptom. The reverse gear won't engage when the engine is cold. So I'd have to keep the engine running for about 5 minutes for the reverse gear to engage and about 10 minutes for drive gear to engage with the current trans fluid. But, in order for first to second gear to shift smoothly, id have to run the engine for about 15 minutes (reach operating temperature). 15 minutes does the trick and the car runs just fine the whole day (absolutely smooth like a new car I'd say). But if I leave the car parked for a few hours, I'd have to run the engine for about 2-3 minutes for the gears to engage. This is the current situation I'm in.
So basically I have three problems:
1) Drive gear won't engage if car isn't warmed up.
2) First gear going into second struggles a lot if not sufficiently warmed up.
3) Reverse gear won't engage if the engine is not warmed up for 5 minutes.
My question is:
Would Lucas Transmission Fix be effective in helping me with this issue if I were to just top it up with current Amsoil Transmission fluid?
Any help that comes my way is very much appreciated. It's the only car I have and I absolutely love this car. Thank you so much.
That sounds like the seals and expansion to heat issues. If it catches once heat starts to warm the fluid, viscosity also changes with the expansion. It's really the seals doing this. The seals within the transmission have hardened where they leak until things inside the transmission heat up and expand and then the transmission shifts normally. The reverse is separate but shares the seals on that side. Catches differently until the seal expands. It's usually a rebuild with new seals.
@@TechReviewbyIrdi I see. I guess I don't have much of a choice than to do a proper repair on it. Thank you so much for the very detailed explanation. I really appreciate it. 😊👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks for the review thumbs up
It worked for my accord thank you so much👌👌
ABG B is it a 98-02 v6 by chance bc I’m watching for that exact car
Ira Eisenhour ya 1998 accord
Ira Eisenhour I works like a charm if the trans is slipping
i'm surprised your jeep engine is so quiet. First time hearing the 4.0 with no knocking
When we rebuilt the engine block on this one everything was done to tolerance torque specs by the Chrysler book not from some mechanic that usually just puts it together slaps it together to a close tolerance. It will just keep on running even with a hole in the block.
@@TechReviewbyIrdi it sure will keep driving with a hole in it. Drove home. Saved me a tow.
Thanks 🙏
I will be bringing her back home soon we had some welding to do on the axles. We've totally redone the rear suspension including the control arm and ball joint. And we had some rust issues happening on the inner panels that had to be repaired but she'll be back on the road within a month. And yes the transmission is still rocking!
Curious how it’s running now?
Still going.....
And did you do and previously trans changed or flush prior to adding the Lucas Transmission fluid ?
Flush. Full. Trans is still going out there.
Hope it works for my jeep
Back
The Car shift are a little better might see more improvements later on thanks man
It's still rock'n. I'm going to be doing a flush. Initially, I was trying to re-swell the seals internally to begin with. That being said, I have flushed some out since and it was even better than in the video.
Does car have to be on when your poring this Trans additives?
You should start it, but stay cold and don't let it get too warm. Trans fluid expands when heated. So if you add it when it's hotter it could be off a little since your adding room temp fluid. Just start it cold, and add then to make sure.
Would Lucas work for my Yukon xl it slips going into 3rd but won't go in 4th but continuously pulls
Not sure, depends on transmission model. But may. You want to narrow it down by the year. Sounds like a shift solenoid as well. Hard to know without the physical experience. But it should hurt that I know. You have to displace what you drain out. Some transmissions are sensitive on fluid level. If it feels like it's just a slip, then see what the Lucas can do. Otherwise I'd check the OBDII codes for any hidden trans solenoids. Starting points at least. I hope that helps a little.
How many miles did you put on it since you did your filter fluid and band adjustment?
Hey, my 2001 jeep grand Cherokee, slipping when it cold, I have changed filter n one of the sensor the black one, once warm up it stop slipping. Any recommendations? Hope u reply, thanks. Same 42re trans
Try lucas or thicker hydraulic fluid than normal ATF
@@trianggaindralukmana2184 got the Lucas, from January, fairly good, had to adjust the transmission cable.
So my lancer ralliart 2004 I believe is slipping on third and fourth gear, once it gets to third it kind of just revs and doesn’t speed up until I let go of the gas and the press on it again quickly then it goes up a gear I believe, would this help my problem?
Clarencio 2K same exact problem with my 2006 civic, tried it. Made a little difference but I think my trans is going out.
Used the whole bottle btw, my car is also a 1.8L. Hope that helps bro!
TRU L. I fixed it turns out the previous owner right when I bought it hadn’t put the coolant cap on properly and my car was running hot and misfiring but I’m glad I fixed it
You must live in Pennsylvania
Yes
@@TechReviewbyIrdi Looked familiar as I live in the Pittsburgh area.
Thanks sir
I have 2007 Mazda 5 before it won’t run but when I filled new fluid and Lucas it now she run, while running the car it has some heavy heating sound sometimes
What problem could be?
Not to sure, could be a whole bunch of things related. well you have it running, I would have someone look at it. That still is the best thing you can do next.
What does heat sound like?
My Subaru is slipping ATM will try something like it? (in aus) Thanks 👍
What year and type of Subaru?
Its 2000/liberty
Cruis3z FPV did it work for you?
I have 2006 Chevrolet Suburban 1500 it shifts til it goes to 3 an 4th gear it's like it's not there at all it's just revs up engine and dont go until I put it in 2nd gear to drive it is this a problem lucas could help
The transmission in that suburban, the 4l60e, is notorious for its 3-4 slippage and failure. I have the same transmission in my silverado and its doing the same thing, I've put this lucas in and it doesn't seem to have made any improvement. I think I need to drive it more to really see, this stuff needs to circulate.
@@TH3C001 how did it go? I have a Chevy Impala slipping badly. My drive gear only works when my car is warmed up then it shifts normally until I have to stop again.
@@MrGrifter123 what year impala?
Transmission wouldn't go unless I warm it up about 10 minutes and put it in gear then there would be no problem. Elsa and Lucas to it and I changed the filter on the side of the transmission it runs just fine thanks for the video
Killed my transmission
@@traildisc155 yeah, was already having problems but the Lucas finished it
@@771 did you have a cvt transmission? Lucas will destroy cvt transmissions