In making your preferred push stick for the table saw, you said to use plywood or "any other wood". I once made a similar push stick using 1" thick oak. One day i dropped it and the handle broke off. Had that happened during a cut it could have been a disaster. All my push sticks are of your design, but now made only of plywood.
@@sajidrafique375 It just depends on the orientation of the grain and how it hits the floor. Like Ronald said, plywood doesn't have this problem, because it doesn't have an effective grain pattern.
I do use a jig to align my router fence to my miter slot/gauge. I have a specific sled/jig for doing up cutting on my table. It is a more advanced technique I understand but it’s the ONLY safe way to attempt such a cut on a router table. Great video!!! I don’t make many public comments but I think beginners should understand the danger and the safe way of doing an up cut
Another plus for using a backer board or backup block on end grain with jointer or router, it prevents the wood grain from blowing out at the end of the cut
I appreciate the information and I learned a few things. On whether the rubberized coating is a good idea for push sticks, I think you sidestepped the actual question as you stated it. Really good information and thinking on what the drawbacks are of that particular style of push stick, but I still don't know if you think a rubberized coating would be helpful or not on a shop-made plywood push stick of a design that you like would make it better or not.
A fence whose length ends at the blade centreline also prevents parts-trapping , pinching & consequent kickback for small pieces... you can just fix a short fence (e.g. a piece of 2x4) to your original long one... 🤨 Also .. I like to use a featherboard on the (long) fence at the back of the fence to prevent lift..... with a "featherboard" on the table in FRONT of the blade to gently push the wood towards the fence... for this "featherboard" I use a piece of 100mm diameter by 20mm long piece of plastic pipe cut to form a "C" & fixed to a bolted-down piece of ply to act as a spring.. works great !! Thank Colin !! 😎👍☘🍺
Hey Colin! I truly enjoy all of your videos and I gleaned a thing or two from this one! When you closed this video by saying “learning proper techniques will make your woodworking safer”, , , you hit the nail on the head! Like you, I’ve used table saws for 50 years and I own four in my shop from excellent, all the way to junk. I saw some newer people in the comments and wanted to humbly share some observations from my woodshop experiences. I know, , , , ,there are those who rant, criticize and rave. Then, there are those who humbly offer to share. Please view my opinions as the latter. 1:20 In my youth, I ripped a piece of lexan material which kicked back and nicked an artery in my leg. Now I’m tall and had I been standing another 3 inches over, I’d be signing this comment as Tina instead of Tom. From that moment on though, the study of kickback became an obsession with me. It should be with every woodworker. The very first thing I figured-out was that if any piece of material kicks back, then I simply shouldn’t be there when it flies by! From that day forward, I always stood aside of the discharge path of all of my saws. I practiced several dry-runs with the saw off. Learning a new technique back then made me a much smarter and successful woodworker. It wasn’t fear, , , , , Us Fossils call it wisdom. 1:45 To each their own! I respect whatever works for someone else, but I ask that same respect when something works for me. Two “chicken-foot” also known in stores as the "safety" push sticks properly positioned work well for me. If a kickback occurs they would simply pivot and get knocked out of the way and I love the distance afforded between the sticks and the blade. It took some practice and getting used to. I use one properly positioned at the feed end and one at the discharge end to prevent material from possibly picking up after it has been cut. After 50 years in the shop, I still have all ten fingers and intend to keep them for the next 50 years! If the back of my blade is picking up the wood THEN I STOP! Somethings wrong. I turn off the saw. On a rip, the saw is “heeling” because the blade is not parallel to the fence or the blade is warped. Its not supposed to do that. I adjust the trunions to the miter slot or replace the blade when possible. 2:00 Now that home made wooden push stick may work well for many people and I truly respect that. What I see is that if a kickback occurred, then that ¼ inch plywood handle could be jammed directly into the palm of someone’s hand. There would be no escape. That scares me so much I never have used one and doubt if I ever will. Again, that’s just me. A person should use whatever works best for them. 3:51 The kickback issue here is obvious. The location on the wood to which pressure is being exerted is incorrect. That will actually guarantee a kickback. Move that stick more to your left to prevent kickback. 4:43 When I align my trunion/blade, I always set the blade to the maximum height and then use a marker to mark one tooth on the blade with an X. I measure the distance between the “X” marked-tooth to the slot when it is closest to me, and then I move the marked tooth to the far end of the table to check it again and find the error. I discovered that measuring the tooth distance closer (not up in the air) to the table amplifies the error so I can get it perfect. Perfect for me is one half of one thousandth of an inch or .0005 ! (Woo Hoo!) My blades never heel. No burns, never. This can take the patience of a saint to get it this close but it is sooooo worth it because I work both sides of my blade. 4:45 “everything aligns to the miter slot” . . . . .Well, , , , , , yes, , , , , , on a good saw. I bought a new-fangled Rockwell RK7241 table saw and made the mistake of not using it often. By the time I discovered the saw was heeling terribly, about .040”, I couldn’t return it. The Rockwell factory warranty person I spoke with said that .040" heeling was acceptable but they would exchange a new saw for the cost of shipping. They also said there is no trunion adjustment according to Rockwell. Colin, they put a laser on this saw! Unbelievable! A laser Colin! I might as well mount a laser sight on a chain saw or a shotgun! So here is one exception to aligning my blade with the fence to make my saw safe. I just never use it for cross cuts because there is no way on this model of saw to make the blade parallel with the miter gauge slot. When the saw goes out of warranty, I will probably do some much needed modifications but it has been a terrible unsafe product for me and that’s what I did to make it safe. I wasn’t about to gamble shipping on something that could be worse. Before I click on the "COMMENT" button, I would like to leave everyone here with some advice from my long-lost Uncle John. He used to tell me, , , , and I quote, "Tom, That Blade Is Not Going To Stop Just Because Your Finger Gets In The Way!" Colin, Thank You and Thanks to everyone in our community and Best Wishes on safety and great projects. Oh! And if you're up there and looking down, , , , , , ,Thanks Uncle John! I'll see you in 50 years!
wow, just what I needed! I'm a female wood Carver, and venturing into other avenues in wood working. since a child I've only carved by hand using old fashioned chisels, my husband introduced me to electric carving tools, and the saws, drills etc. and I loved learning this, and these new had given me a deeper purpose to my life, and life for so awesome for me as ev n jobs and custom orders have come . my sweet husband purchased a routing table for me! I was so excited to use this awesome took, with so many bits and a beautiful wood box with the word,"Freud" on it! inside we're for bits sitting in velvet casing....I could wait no more! the hum of the machine began and grabbing my nicestboars I had I was going to finally kldinsbour what possibilities a routing table could bring into my life! however, I nearly lost my fingers and the board was thrown right back at me hitting me hard on my face!I walked away fighting tears .......still facinates by this machine and eager to see what all those bits could diz I tried again and again, only to not once get a cut all the way down that board. except for today, after watching his very well spoken teacher, I just KNOW that I will be burning saw dust again. thanks so much for this great video!! I will enjoy keeping my eye on these great lessons to be kept and learned!
No rule without exceptions. You have to take it out if you want to make half laps or dado's. Unless of cause you have modified the riving knife to be just under the top of the blade...
@@LuLeBe They will only be below the blade, if 1. you don't use the blade guard. or 2. you do use the blade guard but have to have the blade set to high, so as to allow what you are cutting to pass under the fixing that attaches the guard to the riving knife
Very much obliged, Colin, I've really enjoyed your informative tutorials over the years, and love the little snippets with tips and tricks! Was tempted by the Makita 18v random orb' sander, based on your review, but opted for the corded Bosch with vibration damping. Bit more expensive than I'd initially budgeted for, but well worth it as I had - quite literally - a shed load of sanding to do.
Great advice, Colin. The only one I would take exception to is running the edges of plywood across the jointer. Unless you have carbide blades, the glue in the plywood WILL quickly dull the blades; even making notches in them. (Don't ask me how I know ;) ).
The ocarina works AWESOME with a fine pin at each end. Make two so you can use em together tipped towards each other. Any flat headed sewing pin tapped into the ocarina's work surface can be snipped and sharpened as a catch-tooth.
Excellent info on the table saw, especially the pushstick. I plan to stop using my "chicken foot" (great name!} ones and use my homemade one like yours.
Hmm. What happened to the rubberized push stick? Can’t fix a chicken foot with rubber? Anyway - valuable ideas especially problems with pushing close to fence. I have an old (1975) table saw with no riving knife and a useless, dangerous splitter (abandoned in about 1976). Replaced the fence with a real fence (Biesemeyer). I’ve been using a mag switch feather board in front of the blade and JessEm roller guides mounted on top of the fence.
All my push sticks are the kind you don’t like. They keep my hand well behind the blade. Don’t push next to the fence, push just right of the blade. Use a feather board on narrow pieces.
A "chicken foot" is best used as a secondary push stick, not over or behind the stock near the fence, but on the outside to push the board back against the fence, and hold it down nearest the blade. Even if you are using a "Long foot" push stick, a wider board can have the same problems if you are not centering the force behind the board to guide it in line with the fence, and not too close to the fence. What "bad ideas" did you tell us about? Chicken feet behind the board: bad. Got it. Use backer board with taller boards on the jointer, got it. (Not a bad idea, but advice) Don't need to align router fence to mitre slot, got it. (Again, not bad idea, but useful info...)
Correct! He certainly showed the incorrect way to use the "chickens foot", but when used correctly it's a very useful and safe tool. Think of it like a featherboard that also provides down pressure, keeping your stock firmly against the fence and pushed down against the surface of the table saw. I used mine all of the time!
I once walked passed a person in school running the end grain of a long, wide and thick board backwards through the jointer. I was baffled and surprised we all survived.
About the miter fence on a router table (@8:08);;; I presume this "practice" comes from the use of sliders on shaper. These big machines can easily be fitted with sliders that can be mitered. Though I seldom need any miter I use my shaper every time I need to make grooves and tenons on door frames. However, then the wood pieces are *never* placed so that it touches the fence. I guess you could use the same technique with a miter fence on a regular router table, but both the miter and the pieces *must* be fastened firmly to the table (quite a set up I imagine)
I made one of those gadgets that ride over the fence but the notch is towards the back end of the gadget, not the front, and the gadget actually rides on top of the wood, allowing me to put pressure on the piece getting cut. It does have a limit on the thickness of the wood it can handle and still sturdily ride over the rip fence.
I'm going to try to copy your router table fence. My current one isn't adjustable, but it is 2-sided. One side is lined with plastic laminate the entire length. The other side only has laminate past the bit so I use that as my jointer. Aligning the bit with the outfeed of the fence allows me to trim off a small amount of wood equal to the thickness of the laminate with each pass.
I almost always use a spring type clamp that attaches to the fence that holds the wood down. Sure it takes some time but it is a habit since I started doing it from the start of my using a saw.
yes , I personally (I commented earlier about learning how to use my routing table from the videos) find these videos just absolutely relaxing and watching them I have learned so much, so my time has become so more constructive. thanks! stay at home Mama
I have a old Rockwell / Delta 9" Deluxe table saw that was my dads I have started restoring or I say should cleaning up and it is coming along pretty good . They were some well built tools . Having a Delta Unisaw with a 54" Unifence it makes me wonder how they worked with large panels . I need to make a push foot like you have I have a home made thing a bit like the chicken foot , I see the advantages there . Great video .
Colin, love your vids :-) BUT can I ask you a huge favour? Could you please adjust the video of the jingle between your intro and your actual video please? it's always much louder than the other two. thanks :-))))
The first time you said "chicken's foot" I heard "chicken shit." I thought you meant that it was a CS tool, which would be correct. hahaha You have a very comfortable manner and speaking voice.
When I purchased a Gripper, I wondered why I hadn't done it earlier. It's expensive ($60+) but well worth it in my opinion. Extremely versatile and useful for most cuts, but not all.
Well they were certainly some dubious ideas. 🤔 I'm glad people asked before going ahead with these. Could have been quite an ugly scene... Thanks for sharing mate 👍🏽 Take care stay safe and be well. 👌🏽
Great Video's Colin; Is it a bad idea to use a miter gauge set to 30 degrees and making a dado cut with a dado stack? (3/8" deep in 3/4" work piece) Thanks
Thanks, i like your Video´s ! Since I have known the channel, I have rarely used the German word ´Knecht´ in its actual meaning :-)) I now only speak it as you do it
hey on a table saw when would you use a feather board a apposed to other ways of pushing wood though I brought a few but keep finding them awkward vs other things
Great tips, as usual. Thanks! There was an extra tip for me in the video that you didn't talk about. I really like the holder you have for your table saw push stick. It keeps the push stick upright and easy to grab. Do you have rare earth magnets on the bottom to keep it in place? Cheers!
Stephanie Ray While it shouldn’t make a difference, there are a couple of reasons. Fence to miter slot is easier (no measuring). Blades can be warped and tooth offset can be a pain. Finally, if there is a slight error in blade to slot alignment, that can be passed on or magnified in aligning the fence to the blade (tolerance creep). Anyway, “easier” is sufficient reason for me!
@@robertbamford8266 its not just that Robert ... if the blade is not parallel to the mitre-slot & the fence is then aligned to the blade... the saw WILL cut workpieces with parallel edges when using the fence , GREAT !! .... BUT .... if you then make a cut using the mitre-slot, you will not cut at 90° to the blade, and you can't compensate for this misalignment by offsetting the mitre gauge by the same amount. To understand this its easier if you draw it out & GROSSLY accentuate the lack of parallelism between blade & mitre-slot... now push a "virtual" workpiece through your drawn out table saw using the mitre gauge or a virtual sled ... even with the mitre gauge set at 90° to the blade, the cut will NOT be square.... 😎👍🍺☘
Great information and video as always. Thanks for that. One question for you as I value your knowledge. My understanding for blade height is that, in general, you want to have the bottom of the grooves at the height of the wood, rather than just having the teeth protrude. As I understand it, this usually provides a cleaner cut, has less heat, and results in less deposits on the blade. Not sure if I buy all of that, but it is what I have heard. Your perspective? Thanks!
Not to go against Colin here but I do have issue with that advice. When doing a thin rip (anything under 3/4”) I completely agree. If your going the softwoods (pine and such) I’m sure you’re fine. When going thru hardwoods and especially thicker stock I have at least 2 gullets above my work piece for chip evacuation. It puts a lot less stress on the blade and gets cleaner cuts. There are other reasons to raise the blade even higher but I don’t feel this is the place to discuss those techniques
@@Moebettaish You are absolutely right about having the blade stick through the wood more than was stated in this video. The main problem for anyone it seems in America and also untrained people in the UK is that they take the guard off, thus exposing the blade, I guess that is why the advice is to have very little of the blade protruding through the material. In reality you will get a lot better cut and more of the blade forcing the timber down to the bed, the problem with only a fraction of the blade protruding is it is more likely for the timber to rise up.
Thank you for sharing this. I was just wondering if there would be a problem with use a circular saw blade with a table saw or using a 254mm saw blade on a 250mm table saw ? My local hardware seems to have difficulty acquiring the correct sizes, brands, types etc. of items. Thank you.
I would downsize the blade size not upsize. Two things you just need to worry on putting a blade on a saw. Does it fit right at the adapter (I don't know the name,) when it turns does it hitting anything. The smaller for sure won't hit. Bigger don't know. Play safe? Smaller. If you want better quality make sure the blade is thick. Majority of the time, not all the time. But circular saw tend to has faster spinning speed than a table saw. So I would think a circular saw blade should be good for a table saw as long it is fit right. (It should fit right, unless your table saw adapter like to be different than universal size)
Thanks, Colin. All good advice. But, unless I missed something, you didn’t explain why the rubber-dipped push stick is a bad idea. I can guess why, but I’d like to know for sure. Thanks.
Colin made a quick jump to the idea that you shouldn't be using that kind of push stick in the first place, rubber or no rubber. I think he implied to "not waste the money you spend on the rubber dipping material" because the push stick design is flawed from the get-go. That's what I think he meant to show.
He explained in the video... push sticks like that do NOT hold the workpiece DOWN as you push it forward through the cut ... unlike his preferred push stick ... c'mon guys... look at the video !! 🙄😒
These are very important to help people stay safe,had some people using a table saw at my house working on a door he had the right push block but was not locking it in to the back cut a thick piece of plastic flew back and caught him in the stomach he was lucky I had to tell him the proper way to hold it in place.
Different miter saws align differently as far as how they are adjusted. Some you move the fence, others the scale plate so look at owner's manual. When you get that figured out, Google " five cut method ". There are a lot of good resources on that method.
That type of push stick (rubber coated or not) does NOT hold the workpiece DOWN as it pushes it forward through the saw... unlike his preferred pusher... he explains this perfectly clearly in the video .... 🙄 😎👍🍺☘
It would plane the plywood. Once it hit a cross grained layer the cut would be nasty, but if your blades are sharp it would still work. I wouldn't recommend it though. 1st, plywood is dimensioned for reasons. 2nd, the glue holding plywood layers together may gum up your planer. It also might be the most reasonable way to solve your problem.
3 minutes in with the push stick gliding on the fence... Put it on the wood instead of behind that helps... But I still agree with your type of push stick 👍
Hey Colin, you should check out "The Evolution of the Gripper" by Russ Veinot on UA-cam. He has a different style of push stick that gives even more control.
Please don't touch the saw blade. Even when a saw it off don't touch the blade because a saw can be put on by mistake. And one other tip if someone with more experience than you says don't do what you are doing. Then don't try to justify what u are doing I am only 36 but if I hear the words but my fingers are miles from the blade from someone under 25 I wanna punch them. I'm right they are wrong, in the same way, if anyone says my fingers are 2 close they are right.
عزيزى لماذا لا تترجم فديوهاتك بالللغه العربيهMy dear, why don't you translate your videos in Arabic so that I can understand more and know what you are saying? حتا أتمكن من الفهم اكثر واعلم ماذا تقول
I had not thought of that issue with the "chicken foot" push sticks before but it makes total sense.
In making your preferred push stick for the table saw, you said to use plywood or "any other wood". I once made a similar push stick using 1" thick oak. One day i dropped it and the handle broke off. Had that happened during a cut it could have been a disaster. All my push sticks are of your design, but now made only of plywood.
That piece of Oak must have been defective in some way...Oak does not break from a fall
@@sajidrafique375 Respectfully totally disagree.
@@sajidrafique375 i must have been dreaming. One piece hit the floor and magically turned into two pieces, the base and the handle..
@@sajidrafique375 It just depends on the orientation of the grain and how it hits the floor. Like Ronald said, plywood doesn't have this problem, because it doesn't have an effective grain pattern.
I use mdf, but leave a healthy amount at the handle for strength.
I do use a jig to align my router fence to my miter slot/gauge. I have a specific sled/jig for doing up cutting on my table. It is a more advanced technique I understand but it’s the ONLY safe way to attempt such a cut on a router table. Great video!!! I don’t make many public comments but I think beginners should understand the danger and the safe way of doing an up cut
Another plus for using a backer board or backup block on end grain with jointer or router, it prevents the wood grain from blowing out at the end of the cut
I appreciate the information and I learned a few things. On whether the rubberized coating is a good idea for push sticks, I think you sidestepped the actual question as you stated it. Really good information and thinking on what the drawbacks are of that particular style of push stick, but I still don't know if you think a rubberized coating would be helpful or not on a shop-made plywood push stick of a design that you like would make it better or not.
A fence whose length ends at the blade centreline also prevents parts-trapping , pinching & consequent kickback for small pieces... you can just fix a short fence (e.g. a piece of 2x4) to your original long one... 🤨
Also .. I like to use a featherboard on the (long) fence at the back of the fence to prevent lift..... with a "featherboard" on the table in FRONT of the blade to gently push the wood towards the fence... for this "featherboard" I use a piece of 100mm diameter by 20mm long piece of plastic pipe cut to form a "C" & fixed to a bolted-down piece of ply to act as a spring.. works great !!
Thank Colin !!
😎👍☘🍺
Thanks for sharing your knowledge, we never stop learning, there will be something that we haven't done yet, again, thank you Colin.
Hey Colin! I truly enjoy all of your videos and I gleaned a thing or two from this one! When you closed this video by saying “learning proper techniques will make your woodworking safer”, , , you hit the nail on the head! Like you, I’ve used table saws for 50 years and I own four in my shop from excellent, all the way to junk.
I saw some newer people in the comments and wanted to humbly share some observations from my woodshop experiences. I know, , , , ,there are those who rant, criticize and rave. Then, there are those who humbly offer to share. Please view my opinions as the latter.
1:20 In my youth, I ripped a piece of lexan material which kicked back and nicked an artery in my leg. Now I’m tall and had I been standing another 3 inches over, I’d be signing this comment as Tina instead of Tom. From that moment on though, the study of kickback became an obsession with me. It should be with every woodworker. The very first thing I figured-out was that if any piece of material kicks back, then I simply shouldn’t be there when it flies by! From that day forward, I always stood aside of the discharge path of all of my saws. I practiced several dry-runs with the saw off. Learning a new technique back then made me a much smarter and successful woodworker. It wasn’t fear, , , , , Us Fossils call it wisdom.
1:45 To each their own! I respect whatever works for someone else, but I ask that same respect when something works for me. Two “chicken-foot” also known in stores as the "safety" push sticks properly positioned work well for me. If a kickback occurs they would simply pivot and get knocked out of the way and I love the distance afforded between the sticks and the blade. It took some practice and getting used to. I use one properly positioned at the feed end and one at the discharge end to prevent material from possibly picking up after it has been cut. After 50 years in the shop, I still have all ten fingers and intend to keep them for the next 50 years! If the back of my blade is picking up the wood THEN I STOP! Somethings wrong. I turn off the saw. On a rip, the saw is “heeling” because the blade is not parallel to the fence or the blade is warped. Its not supposed to do that. I adjust the trunions to the miter slot or replace the blade when possible.
2:00 Now that home made wooden push stick may work well for many people and I truly respect that. What I see is that if a kickback occurred, then that ¼ inch plywood handle could be jammed directly into the palm of someone’s hand. There would be no escape. That scares me so much I never have used one and doubt if I ever will. Again, that’s just me. A person should use whatever works best for them.
3:51 The kickback issue here is obvious. The location on the wood to which pressure is being exerted is incorrect. That will actually guarantee a kickback. Move that stick more to your left to prevent kickback.
4:43 When I align my trunion/blade, I always set the blade to the maximum height and then use a marker to mark one tooth on the blade with an X. I measure the distance between the “X” marked-tooth to the slot when it is closest to me, and then I move the marked tooth to the far end of the table to check it again and find the error. I discovered that measuring the tooth distance closer (not up in the air) to the table amplifies the error so I can get it perfect. Perfect for me is one half of one thousandth of an inch or .0005 ! (Woo Hoo!) My blades never heel.
No burns, never. This can take the patience of a saint to get it this close but it is sooooo worth it because I work both sides of my blade.
4:45 “everything aligns to the miter slot” . . . . .Well, , , , , , yes, , , , , , on a good saw. I bought a new-fangled Rockwell RK7241 table saw and made the mistake of not using it often. By the time I discovered the saw was heeling terribly, about .040”, I couldn’t return it. The Rockwell factory warranty person I spoke with said that .040" heeling was acceptable but they would exchange a new saw for the cost of shipping. They also said there is no trunion adjustment according to Rockwell. Colin, they put a laser on this saw! Unbelievable! A laser Colin! I might as well mount a laser sight on a chain saw or a shotgun! So here is one exception to aligning my blade with the fence to make my saw safe. I just never use it for cross cuts because there is no way on this model of saw to make the blade parallel with the miter gauge slot. When the saw goes out of warranty, I will probably do some much needed modifications but it has been a terrible unsafe product for me and that’s what I did to make it safe. I wasn’t about to gamble shipping on something that could be worse.
Before I click on the "COMMENT" button, I would like to leave everyone here with some advice from my long-lost Uncle John. He used to tell me, , , , and I quote, "Tom, That Blade Is Not Going To Stop Just Because Your Finger Gets In The Way!" Colin, Thank You and Thanks to everyone in our community and Best Wishes on safety and great projects. Oh! And if you're up there and looking down, , , , , , ,Thanks Uncle John! I'll see you in 50 years!
wow, just what I needed! I'm a female wood Carver, and venturing into other avenues in wood working. since a child I've only carved by hand using old fashioned chisels, my husband introduced me to electric carving tools, and the saws, drills etc. and I loved learning this, and these new had given me a deeper purpose to my life, and life for so awesome for me as ev n jobs and custom orders have come . my sweet husband purchased a routing table for me! I was so excited to use this awesome took, with so many bits and a beautiful wood box with the word,"Freud" on it! inside we're for bits sitting in velvet casing....I could wait no more! the hum of the machine began and grabbing my nicestboars I had I was going to finally kldinsbour what possibilities a routing table could bring into my life! however, I nearly lost my fingers and the board was thrown right back at me hitting me hard on my face!I walked away fighting tears .......still facinates by this machine and eager to see what all those bits could diz I tried again and again, only to not once get a cut all the way down that board. except for today, after watching his very well spoken teacher, I just KNOW that I will be burning saw dust again. thanks so much for this great video!! I will enjoy keeping my eye on these great lessons to be kept and learned!
A girl wood worker...haha 🤣
Thank *YOU* Colin, for helping us stay safe
👌😇👍
I don't use a blade guard, but I would never make a cut without the riving knife. Riving knives save lives ya'll.
No rule without exceptions. You have to take it out if you want to make half laps or dado's. Unless of cause you have modified the riving knife to be just under the top of the blade...
I only take my knife out for dados
@@LuLeBe They will only be below the blade, if 1. you don't use the blade guard. or 2. you do use the blade guard but have to have the blade set to high, so as to allow what you are cutting to pass under the fixing that attaches the guard to the riving knife
Agreed Rick, it's a prerequisite on ANY table saw, I'd never use one without one...is just inviting an ED visit
any recommendations for a replacement riving knife? Seen some but reluctant to buy. Looked a little cheap.
Very much obliged, Colin,
I've really enjoyed your informative tutorials over the years, and love the little snippets with tips and tricks!
Was tempted by the Makita 18v random orb' sander, based on your review, but opted for the corded Bosch with vibration damping. Bit more expensive than I'd initially budgeted for, but well worth it as I had - quite literally - a shed load of sanding to do.
Very much appreciate your help in the process of getting back to me with the information I have been doing for the past year.
your videos are relaxing, your voice tone is encouraging and you've always a smile, these days it's so important :)
Totally agree!!
Couldn't agree more! Very informative too. Thank you.
We all need a Colin Knecht in our lives. Stable, thoughtful and I bet an awesome guy to know.
Excellent video as usual Colin! Being really alert & careful in the workshop is extremely important. Thanks for these videos........... 👍👍👌👌😉😉
Great advice, Colin. The only one I would take exception to is running the edges of plywood across the jointer. Unless you have carbide blades, the glue in the plywood WILL quickly dull the blades; even making notches in them. (Don't ask me how I know ;) ).
The ocarina works AWESOME with a fine pin at each end. Make two so you can use em together tipped towards each other. Any flat headed sewing pin tapped into the ocarina's work surface can be snipped and sharpened as a catch-tooth.
This man has all his fingers. Listen to him.
LOL Good observation/point !
haha
So did the guy who just cut three of his off (if he started with 10).
That Plasti-Dip paint, I just used it to coat the base of the homemade track saw tracks that I just made. Seems to work really good so far.
Excellent info on the table saw, especially the pushstick. I plan to stop using my "chicken foot" (great name!} ones and use my homemade one like yours.
Going to stop using the chicken foot that came with my Milwaukee table saw. I have the grr-rippers too.
Hmm. What happened to the rubberized push stick? Can’t fix a chicken foot with rubber? Anyway - valuable ideas especially problems with pushing close to fence. I have an old (1975) table saw with no riving knife and a useless, dangerous splitter (abandoned in about 1976). Replaced the fence with a real fence (Biesemeyer). I’ve been using a mag switch feather board in front of the blade and JessEm roller guides mounted on top of the fence.
Thank you once again for this. This is great information. God Bless
All my push sticks are the kind you don’t like. They keep my hand well behind the blade. Don’t push next to the fence, push just right of the blade. Use a feather board on narrow pieces.
A "chicken foot" is best used as a secondary push stick, not over or behind the stock near the fence, but on the outside to push the board back against the fence, and hold it down nearest the blade. Even if you are using a "Long foot" push stick, a wider board can have the same problems if you are not centering the force behind the board to guide it in line with the fence, and not too close to the fence. What "bad ideas" did you tell us about? Chicken feet behind the board: bad. Got it. Use backer board with taller boards on the jointer, got it. (Not a bad idea, but advice) Don't need to align router fence to mitre slot, got it. (Again, not bad idea, but useful info...)
Correct! He certainly showed the incorrect way to use the "chickens foot", but when used correctly it's a very useful and safe tool. Think of it like a featherboard that also provides down pressure, keeping your stock firmly against the fence and pushed down against the surface of the table saw. I used mine all of the time!
I always use two push sticks or a stick and a block.
I once walked passed a person in school running the end grain of a long, wide and thick board backwards through the jointer. I was baffled and surprised we all survived.
So many great tips, thanks Colin.
Another great video Colin. Yes, I am still kicking and making little pieces of wood from big pieces of wood. LOL
Derek
About the miter fence on a router table (@8:08);;; I presume this "practice" comes from the use of sliders on shaper. These big machines can easily be fitted with sliders that can be mitered. Though I seldom need any miter I use my shaper every time I need to make grooves and tenons on door frames. However, then the wood pieces are *never* placed so that it touches the fence. I guess you could use the same technique with a miter fence on a regular router table, but both the miter and the pieces *must* be fastened firmly to the table (quite a set up I imagine)
I made one of those gadgets that ride over the fence but the notch is towards the back end of the gadget, not the front, and the gadget actually rides on top of the wood, allowing me to put pressure on the piece getting cut. It does have a limit on the thickness of the wood it can handle and still sturdily ride over the rip fence.
Always good to refresh. Good tips.
Morning Colin. You could use your blade DTI to check the fence
I'm going to try to copy your router table fence. My current one isn't adjustable, but it is 2-sided. One side is lined with plastic laminate the entire length. The other side only has laminate past the bit so I use that as my jointer. Aligning the bit with the outfeed of the fence allows me to trim off a small amount of wood equal to the thickness of the laminate with each pass.
“You don’t use a miter gauge with a fence on a tablesaw.”
I did not know that. Thanks for the tip. But why is that?
Unusually good piece, Colin. Thanks!
I almost always use a spring type clamp that attaches to the fence that holds the wood down. Sure it takes some time but it is a habit since I started doing it from the start of my using a saw.
How about examples showing what the mitre slot is for in a router table?
As someone who can only count to 9.8, I can attest that poor pushsticks cause less than proper results.
THANK YOU MESTER
Always informative and helpful, thanks!
How do you prevent rust for your Table saw ? Thank you
Thank you for the illustration.
Great tips Colin!
Greetings from Chile
Hope this finds you and your family safe during these trying times.
yes , I personally (I commented earlier about learning how to use my routing table from the videos) find these videos just absolutely relaxing and watching them I have learned so much, so my time has become so more constructive. thanks! stay at home Mama
I have a old Rockwell / Delta 9" Deluxe table saw that was my dads I have started restoring or I say should cleaning up and it is coming along pretty good . They were some well built tools . Having a Delta Unisaw with a 54" Unifence it makes me wonder how they worked with large panels . I need to make a push foot like you have I have a home made thing a bit like the chicken foot , I see the advantages there . Great video .
Colin, love your vids :-) BUT can I ask you a huge favour? Could you please adjust the video of the jingle between your intro and your actual video please? it's always much louder than the other two. thanks :-))))
The first time you said "chicken's foot" I heard "chicken shit." I thought you meant that it was a CS tool, which would be correct. hahaha You have a very comfortable manner and speaking voice.
When I purchased a Gripper, I wondered why I hadn't done it earlier. It's expensive ($60+) but well worth it in my opinion. Extremely versatile and useful for most cuts, but not all.
He needs to make a swordfish out of it for the push stick😅
Good info as usual. Thanks so much for your efforts.
work piece cant move away from the fence if the riving knife is in place .
Excellent video! Thank you!
Talented guy Colin. Subtitle were in Koreon.
Well they were certainly some dubious ideas. 🤔
I'm glad people asked before going ahead with these.
Could have been quite an ugly scene...
Thanks for sharing mate 👍🏽
Take care stay safe and be well. 👌🏽
Great Video's Colin; Is it a bad idea to use a miter gauge set to 30 degrees and making a dado cut with a dado stack? (3/8" deep in 3/4" work piece) Thanks
Thanks, i like your Video´s ! Since I have known the channel, I have rarely used the German word ´Knecht´ in its actual meaning :-)) I now only speak it as you do it
hey on a table saw when would you use a feather board a apposed to other ways of pushing wood though I brought a few but keep finding them awkward vs other things
Thanks a lot, my fingers will be safe.
Congrats.
Great tips, as usual. Thanks!
There was an extra tip for me in the video that you didn't talk about. I really like the holder you have for your table saw push stick. It keeps the push stick upright and easy to grab.
Do you have rare earth magnets on the bottom to keep it in place?
Cheers!
Thanks Colin, How do make rail and stile door frames without a mitre guide?? Do you just put a square backer board against the fence behind it?
Why not align the fence to the blade, Colin?
Stephanie Ray While it shouldn’t make a difference, there are a couple of reasons. Fence to miter slot is easier (no measuring). Blades can be warped and tooth offset can be a pain. Finally, if there is a slight error in blade to slot alignment, that can be passed on or magnified in aligning the fence to the blade (tolerance creep). Anyway, “easier” is sufficient reason for me!
@@robertbamford8266 its not just that Robert ... if the blade is not parallel to the mitre-slot & the fence is then aligned to the blade... the saw WILL cut workpieces with parallel edges when using the fence , GREAT !! ....
BUT .... if you then make a cut using the mitre-slot, you will not cut at 90° to the blade, and you can't compensate for this misalignment by offsetting the mitre gauge by the same amount. To understand this its easier if you draw it out & GROSSLY accentuate the lack of parallelism between blade & mitre-slot... now push a "virtual" workpiece through your drawn out table saw using the mitre gauge or a virtual sled ... even with the mitre gauge set at 90° to the blade, the cut will NOT be square.... 😎👍🍺☘
Thank you
Great information and video as always. Thanks for that.
One question for you as I value your knowledge.
My understanding for blade height is that, in general, you want to have the bottom of the grooves at the height of the wood, rather than just having the teeth protrude. As I understand it, this usually provides a cleaner cut, has less heat, and results in less deposits on the blade. Not sure if I buy all of that, but it is what I have heard.
Your perspective?
Thanks!
Not to go against Colin here but I do have issue with that advice. When doing a thin rip (anything under 3/4”) I completely agree. If your going the softwoods (pine and such) I’m sure you’re fine. When going thru hardwoods and especially thicker stock I have at least 2 gullets above my work piece for chip evacuation. It puts a lot less stress on the blade and gets cleaner cuts. There are other reasons to raise the blade even higher but I don’t feel this is the place to discuss those techniques
@@Moebettaish You are absolutely right about having the blade stick through the wood more than was stated in this video. The main problem for anyone it seems in America and also untrained people in the UK is that they take the guard off, thus exposing the blade, I guess that is why the advice is to have very little of the blade protruding through the material. In reality you will get a lot better cut and more of the blade forcing the timber down to the bed, the problem with only a fraction of the blade protruding is it is more likely for the timber to rise up.
I'm not understanding why you never use a miter gauge with a fence on a router table.
Thank you for sharing this. I was just wondering if there would be a problem with use a circular saw blade with a table saw or using a 254mm saw blade on a 250mm table saw ? My local hardware seems to have difficulty acquiring the correct sizes, brands, types etc. of items. Thank you.
I would downsize the blade size not upsize. Two things you just need to worry on putting a blade on a saw. Does it fit right at the adapter (I don't know the name,) when it turns does it hitting anything. The smaller for sure won't hit. Bigger don't know. Play safe? Smaller. If you want better quality make sure the blade is thick. Majority of the time, not all the time. But circular saw tend to has faster spinning speed than a table saw. So I would think a circular saw blade should be good for a table saw as long it is fit right. (It should fit right, unless your table saw adapter like to be different than universal size)
Good 💖💖🇮🇳🇮🇳
Great video - All the mistakes I would likely make.
Thanks, Colin. All good advice. But, unless I missed something, you didn’t explain why the rubber-dipped push stick is a bad idea. I can guess why, but I’d like to know for sure. Thanks.
Colin made a quick jump to the idea that you shouldn't be using that kind of push stick in the first place, rubber or no rubber. I think he implied to "not waste the money you spend on the rubber dipping material" because the push stick design is flawed from the get-go. That's what I think he meant to show.
He explained in the video... push sticks like that do NOT hold the workpiece DOWN as you push it forward through the cut ... unlike his preferred push stick ... c'mon guys... look at the video !! 🙄😒
Thanks guys. I watched it again and it seems you’re both right.
The featherboard is backward on the router table.
what do you mean by Collin
what brand is that watch youre wearing?
Very good I hope the people that asked watched
These are very important to help people stay safe,had some people using a table saw at my house working on a door he had the right push block but was not locking it in to the back cut a thick piece of plastic flew back and caught him in the stomach he was lucky I had to tell him the proper way to hold it in place.
Why did the chicken cross the road ?
To get away from the chickens-foot bounty hunter 🐔🙄
😎👍🍺☘
good video
How do you align a miter saw?
Different miter saws align differently as far as how they are adjusted. Some you move the fence, others the scale plate so look at owner's manual. When you get that figured out, Google " five cut method ". There are a lot of good resources on that method.
Nice
Love the videos Colin. So is there nothing wrong with the rubber tip it’s just the chicken foot that you don’t like?
Either way you are still using that chicken foot!
That type of push stick (rubber coated or not) does NOT hold the workpiece DOWN as it pushes it forward through the saw... unlike his preferred pusher... he explains this perfectly clearly in the video .... 🙄
😎👍🍺☘
In the video settings, the language is Korean.
Hello 👍
giggle count. 00:03 00:34 00:44 00:50 00:56 6:21 8:07 8:49
What would happen if you ran plywood through the planer
It would plane the plywood. Once it hit a cross grained layer the cut would be nasty, but if your blades are sharp it would still work.
I wouldn't recommend it though. 1st, plywood is dimensioned for reasons. 2nd, the glue holding plywood layers together may gum up your planer. It also might be the most reasonable way to solve your problem.
3 minutes in with the push stick gliding on the fence... Put it on the wood instead of behind that helps... But I still agree with your type of push stick 👍
That was NOT Colins design ... that was an idea sent in to him... 🙄
Hey Colin, you should check out "The Evolution of the Gripper" by Russ Veinot on UA-cam. He has a different style of push stick that gives even more control.
прикольно
Those chicken foot push sticks are a piece of s... so right Colin🤠👍🔨
Hello subscribes
Please don't touch the saw blade. Even when a saw it off don't touch the blade because a saw can be put on by mistake. And one other tip if someone with more experience than you says don't do what you are doing. Then don't try to justify what u are doing I am only 36 but if I hear the words but my fingers are miles from the blade from someone under 25 I wanna punch them. I'm right they are wrong, in the same way, if anyone says my fingers are 2 close they are right.
عزيزى لماذا لا تترجم فديوهاتك بالللغه العربيهMy dear, why don't you translate your videos in Arabic so that I can understand more and know what you are saying? حتا أتمكن من الفهم اكثر واعلم ماذا تقول
Your arrogance is overwhelming
Just the name, "chicken foot' sounds dangerous. Helpful hints, thanks Colin.