Had to send out my harmonic balancer on my 78 for rebuild because was impossible to correctly time due to dried out neoprene that allowed slip between mount and pulley. Once rebuilt was able to set timing to factory specs and its running great.
FYI time it with the engine warm as you advance the timing turn your idle speed back down make sure you are at the timing you want and about 800ish rpm because idle rpm will affect timing also and unplug the vacuum advance from the distributor and plug the hose
We don't know what we're doing clearly. But if we time it at 3k to 30-35 and the timing is then off at idle what should we do. Pretty sure the our timing advance isn't working.
@@south7boys there is the vacuum advance and the mechanical advance. Both are subject to failure from age. You should confirm the vacuum advance works by applying a vacuum and seeing if the coil moves (remove the cap to inspect). the mechanical advance controlled by weights inside, if the advance does not move up to about 30 degrees its likely they are stuck and you will need to do some disassembly and cleaning. At that point I would suggest you find a old distributer to try out rebuilding 1st get some practice on it.
Techno toy tuning weld in coilovers. They're not the best but gave the car the look we were going for. Going to be upgrading to the BC racing coilover eventually now that the car is competing at autocross
Thanks dude! I was running 15x10 et 0 last season, the wheels in this video are 15x8 et 0 reps and they fit pretty well imo! 205/50 on the front and 225/50 in the rear
You mean with the pry bar and hammer? lol If so the distributor was seized and could not be rotated so we were hitting the casting on the distributor to rotate it. We're idiots (clearly) so don't do this lol. Hope that answers your question. Thanks for watching!!!
@@south7boys Not really confused at all, you say @00:52 "what we're looking for is that top dead center mark on the flywheel spinning around and when the light flashes it it's basically like a frame it flashes and uh the timing mark on the flywheel is going to match up with one of the teeth on this little indicator" So no, the flywheel isn't what you're pointing the timing light at to check the timing, its the harmonic balancer/crank pulley. You're right that everyone has to start somewhere so lesson one, the flywheel isn't on the front, it's on the back of the engine.
@@hunterjones9822 this cars been converted to carbonic injection. No replacement for displacement... Unless it's carbonic injection. Am I right? So please boomer. Talk to the hand.
The distributor was seized to the block. Used a hammer and pry bar to break it loose and rotate it lol. Don't do that. Don't do anything we do actually lol
We know it's not the flywheel. Devs just a little slow.
Does your car smell of gas fumes when driving
@@44hawk34 smelt like unburnt fuel before. Not anymore. Never raw fuel. Why do you ask?
Beautiful Z, just got mine running good after a year of troubleshooting... glad I get to enjoy it finally Lool
That's awesome! They're great cars. Ours actually competes very well at the track.
Had to send out my harmonic balancer on my 78 for rebuild because was impossible to correctly time due to dried out neoprene that allowed slip between mount and pulley. Once rebuilt was able to set timing to factory specs and its running great.
Yo! 280 content and I noticed that s&m sticker 👌
Smells like Increased timing=faster Track time. Sick car bois!
Very fast car very fast lew thx
Don't forget to pull the vacuum hose off the vacuum advance & plug it while setting the timing
If you advance it considerably above stock timing, you'll need to run 92 octane to prevent detonation
That car is HOT!!! 😍
FYI time it with the engine warm as you advance the timing turn your idle speed back down make sure you are at the timing you want and about 800ish rpm because idle rpm will affect timing also and unplug the vacuum advance from the distributor and plug the hose
Thanks for the advice. We really dont have much experience timing. Obviously lol. Next time we'll use this information. Thanks!
Crank pulley, flywheel is connected to the back of the motor, and has your clutch and starter attached to it.
Yes as you can see in the comments we're well aware of that. Still getting used to speaking in front of the camera and mistakes happen.
check the timing at 3k this will verify the mech advance is working. IIRC it maxes out at 3k you should be around 30-35 total timing.
We don't know what we're doing clearly. But if we time it at 3k to 30-35 and the timing is then off at idle what should we do. Pretty sure the our timing advance isn't working.
@@south7boys there is the vacuum advance and the mechanical advance. Both are subject to failure from age. You should confirm the vacuum advance works by applying a vacuum and seeing if the coil moves (remove the cap to inspect). the mechanical advance controlled by weights inside, if the advance does not move up to about 30 degrees its likely they are stuck and you will need to do some disassembly and cleaning. At that point I would suggest you find a old distributer to try out rebuilding 1st get some practice on it.
Clean Z! what suspension are you running? great looking ride height.
Techno toy tuning weld in coilovers. They're not the best but gave the car the look we were going for. Going to be upgrading to the BC racing coilover eventually now that the car is competing at autocross
Sounds beefy! What exhaust set up are you running?
Thanks! Custom 3" stainless into a genuine greddy. Still stock exhaust manifold
So what are you hitting on?
What wheel setup do you have. Car sounds nice!
Thanks dude! I was running 15x10 et 0 last season, the wheels in this video are 15x8 et 0 reps and they fit pretty well imo! 205/50 on the front and 225/50 in the rear
What exactly are you guys banging on??
You mean with the pry bar and hammer? lol If so the distributor was seized and could not be rotated so we were hitting the casting on the distributor to rotate it. We're idiots (clearly) so don't do this lol. Hope that answers your question. Thanks for watching!!!
I've never used a screw driver and a hammer to set the timing
Vacuum advance must be disconnected and blocked off. You have a exhaust leak!
Good to know! Thanks for the info I'll do that next time I'm wrenching on the Z.
So you know the flywheel is on the back of the engine and the crank pulley is on the front?
I think you're getting confused with the Johnson rods and the bumper valve. That's okay! Everyone has to start somewhere!
@@south7boys Not really confused at all, you say @00:52
"what we're looking for
is that top dead center mark on the
flywheel spinning around and when the light flashes it it's basically like a frame it flashes and uh the timing mark on the flywheel is going to match up with one of the teeth on this little indicator"
So no, the flywheel isn't what you're pointing the timing light at to check the timing, its the harmonic balancer/crank pulley. You're right that everyone has to start somewhere so lesson one, the flywheel isn't on the front, it's on the back of the engine.
@@hunterjones9822 this cars been converted to carbonic injection. No replacement for displacement... Unless it's carbonic injection. Am I right? So please boomer. Talk to the hand.
you never explained what the hell you tapping
The distributor was seized to the block. Used a hammer and pry bar to break it loose and rotate it lol. Don't do that. Don't do anything we do actually lol
Microphone, get one