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I love how many UA-cam heavy equipment operators show up here. It was a great video that shows how the land plane works. Keep me coming. I don’t think some of the people understood this is a hunting lease and the road is perfect after you got done planing it without the gravel.
Good job leveling it out. The land plane is the best, IMHO, for the leveling jobs, but if you need to move dirt or gravel the box is my choice. I used tractors on my little farm for 20 years before I could afford a tractor with a FEL. Wish I had bought one 15 years earlier! Enjoy your vids and look forward to each one. Thanks.
We use one on a calechee covered RV lot and it does an amazing job at keep it level and moving high spots into low spots to reduce the pot holes and make it easier to walk on.
Speaking from experience with a similar road, only one which was much, much worse, I would suggest that you first use a disk-harrow to cut deep into the roadbed dragging in both directions 1-2 times each way. That deep cutting will allow the water to drain down below the roadbed from the top of the roadbed where it is standing. Then 2 days later use a landscape rake making several passes in both directions to further break-up any remaining wet clumps of compacted soil. Then come back 2 days later with your landplane you will find that the soil has dried out considerably (90% or more) from the deep cutting with the disk-harrow and the breaking up wet soil clumps with the landscape rake. You will also find that the job of leveling and returning the road to a usable (dry) roadbed will be much easier and a whole lot faster. Yes, it is a drawn-out system, but it is a system that worked for me on a road where cars, trucks and even tractors were getting stuck to the axels and I found that it actually help the roadbed to allow further rainwater to drain down through the roadbed instead of standing on top of the roadbed and creating a muddy mess.
I do driveways for a living with my TLB and almost always with a land plane. I have found when doing those types or driveways or trails that it’s best to hit it with the land plane with scarifiers down a few passes, then toss on a rear blade and roll that mud which will help with the ruts too. Then a finish pass with the land plane with the scarifiers up. Did you try running it in reverse too? It works well in both directions. Looks like you did a good job. A land plane is a great tool!
Hello, It's kind of difficult to see from the video for sure, but it looks like the area is the lowest point. Before adding gravel, I would bring in several trucks full of fill to raise the grade a bit, and then add the rock and gravel. I have built several service roads like this with good results. The key idea is to completely keep the water off the road. In addition, add a swale or ditch along both sides. It is pretty amazing what a land plane can do with a little patience! Good Job!
Thank you for the video!!! You know you can't watch your self when running equipment!! I like to watch your videos and ttwt. You moving the top link shown a better finish with the plane faced down in the front. It seem it cut better flat to the rear facing downward. Handy stuff thank you sir!!!
Now these are the kind of videos I like to see. Action videos. Lately it’s been all talk. Gotta admit got a bit bored. lol. But totally understandable based on the weather we have in Michigan. Also with the way the governor makes it sound like we can’t go and do anything.
That is my favorite implement. Get a hydraulic top link. Makes it work even better. I also added 1" steel plates to the sides(about 300lbs). Digs in much better with less bouncing.
Nice job! Looks great. I do think, however, that a box blade works a little easier on this kind of wet stuff; especially with hydraulic links. Wish i could afford hydraulic links. At 68 it would sure be nice to make those adjustments from the seat😁
It looks like that works pretty well for leveling and filling in holes but you need some crown on a road to help get the water off of it. Can you lower one side and move some dirt to the middle?
My understanding is that land planes work better if the rear plane is lower than the front plane. Also, it looked like it could've used a bit more weight, though I suppose you were holding it up to see if it did a better job.
Cortney… looks to me you will need to bring in multiple loads of gravel to build that road up 5 or 6 inches, to stand a chance against it being a muddy mess various times of the year.
@@GoodWorksTractors Right, gravel would make it great, but, that road was rock star level once you got done. I've poured concrete driveways over roads rougher than that. Bottom line, that land leveler friggin works.
Great video. I have something similar I want to try with my leveler if it ever stops raining. I rototilled an area in my field for the kids to play soccer last fall. Now I want to get it nice and level. Box blade did okay but I'm hoping the land leveler with do a better job.
I've used a land plane to level 2.5 acres of my property. The key is to till first, let it dry, til again in opposite direction, let it dry, then use the land plane. The land plane works best when the dirt is dry and loose. Final step is a drag harrow.
I watching that guy. Very same thing I was thinking. Depend on traffic but I never ever seen a perfect non- upkeep road. They all need hit every little bit but fill them, wait while, run dry on top. Takes little time. Catch them before they get too bad 1 trick. I seen holes you can't fill in. I put I bet 1000 tons different sized rock & gravel in 1 hole it all go into a endless huge crack & long gone. Now that's my Old leftover cement hole. Old timer worked road construction his whole life told me many years ago. Good lighting hits you never get them places filled in. That must been a lighting hit I ran into couple places. If easy everybody could do picture perfect non- retouch job.
Are you running the three point in a free floating position or a bit of applied down force? Also, are you putting an angle of attack into the center link?
If you can crown the road with it, that would be best. Also, I have no idea how much shale is over there but here in pa we get it delivered for 80 dollars a tandem load. Get a solid foot thick of shale down and now you have it higher than the ground around it. Crown the shale and then hit it with a vibrating roller, you'll probably have to rent one. Your base will be very solid. Then if you really want to put more money into it 2rc is a clay limestone and limestone dust mix and roll that in following the crown. Then you could roll in some clean 2b and then 1a. Here we tar and chip that and roll it and that's how some of our roads are.
highstepperARF I use a 72” box blade on a very similar lane. I don’t have a hydraulic top or side Link, but i used a back blade tilted pretty steeply and moved dirt off wherever the lower side of the lane was. Then i used the box blade deep scarifying first and then tilted the Right side of box blade down about two inches lower than the right. Once you get used to your box blade you can feather it to make final grades and it looks great; almost Like a land plane.That being said, I struggled with that lane year after year until I was able to do the above same thing using 23A road gravel (the stuff they use on road shoulders). Now it’s just annual minor maintenance with the box blade. I think both tools are great but have slightly different purposes. Wet stuff like we have, I think the box blade is a little easier and faster to use. But you can’t beat the land plane on dry gravel. Wish I could afford one.
Well, I have never used a land plane, but have been considering 1 for the driveway. Always got good results with a box blade. just an observation, but looking at what you had to work with (or lack of) and how wet the material was, it turned out pretty good! I assume if it was dry, it would have brought the gravel to the surface much better, right?
Well this drive didn't never actually had gravel put down. That's just naturally occurring gravel in that area. Really needs to have a good base and fines brought in, but I don't think I want to spend the money.
Your link is for a 4’ land plane, what width was the one in this video? I’d be interested in maybe a 60” wide one for use behind my 3520 with the rear quick hitch.
The land plane seems to do a great job. Your vid reminds me of a mess I made on my clay driveway about 26 yrs ago with a blade on the 3 point hitch on my Dad's tractor. It turned into about 6 inches of "soup". It wasn't until I rigged up a drag that I was able to get the driveway dry.
You seem to like the R series. What is the depreciation difference you see between a 4052M and R? 5 year old tractor, same hours, is there a difference in the depreciation? % or real dollars?
Hello sir, I really appreciate all your videos, I have a quick question, I'm looking to put a small 30" flail mower on the end of a 3046r backhoe. The hydraulic motor for flail is minimum 10gpm, I was wondering if you've seen that, or know what the GPM at the power beyond is. Thank you for your time.
One very good and easy way to help with the muddy soil is dropping a few tons of sand and then mixing the sand in with the soil as you're going. Especially if it's going to be a driveway or something like that period that just helps soak up some of the moisture and break up the Klumps
Well anytime you need a tool to work on a tool so the tool can work appears to be an interesting experience. Would a rear blade be good to start then finish with the land leveler?
Are the Ripper Teeth aka Scarifier’s sold separately? I don’t see any on the planes you have linked. Which model are you actually using in the video since it’s green & the linked ones are red (unless you just painted it?) Looking to purchase one for my 3032e
I don't sell them separately. Tar River land planes are sold out. These are what I can get right now. Thank COVID for disrupting supply chain like crazy.
@@GoodWorksTractors - geotextile fabric, sometimes called landscape fabric (comes in many grades) is used to prevent the earth from swallowing up your road and preventing erosion. I wouldn't build a gravel road without it.
@@GoodWorksTractors The last one i "uncovered" popped up and speared a hole right in the bottom corner of my diesel tank. That "guard" under the tank on a Kubota might as well be tin foil.
Mine is a 84" woods painted green. Works great on my gravel lane. I was thinking of buying a rock bucket now for my 4052m, could you sometime do a video on one of those?
Those tires looked pretty good before you took the tractor off the trailer. I'm really starting to think that you just like cleaning tires.lol Great video's keep them coming. I'd subscribe but I hate getting notifications.
As nice as that looks I'd like to suggest that you take a 3pt blade tilted at an extreme angle an cut ditch along one side to give water somewhere to go without pooling on the surface of the drive.
Thanks for the videos. You mentioned that a box blade may have been better. Which would you buy? I have a 700 driveway to maintain but I would like to also level out some dirt and cut trials thru timber. I’m leaning towards the lane plane because it seems easier to use. Thanks!
You’d want a box blade to cut and move large amounts of material. But it’s hard to maintain a gravel driveway with one. Because it’s cutting edge is straight across the back of the tractor, it’s very difficult to get rid of the washboard effect most gravel roads take on. You need something like a box blade with an angled cutting edge to solve that problem. If the land plane has semi diagonal cutting edges together with those long side bars that aid in keeping it flat on the ground, it should be much easier to maintain that gravel drive and get rid of the washboard.
If you can justify the money put geo-tex highway fabric down first. The rock will always sink into the mud without it. It sounds like past efforts of gravel have sunk down already. Great to see the tractor doing real work. Thanks and take care
AHA - looks like you have a hydraulic top link... I added that to mine two years ago.. Those things are the cat's azz! No more jacking it in/out to get an implement set - just hit the button on the joystick and VOILA!! Your job there would have been easier if the ground wasn't so wet.. Those land planes are great..
That 4-Series is so nice, but sat in one and the cab is too small for me. I’m too tall...knees hit the wheel and I can’t do the pedals. Oh well, I guess I’ll just have to buy a 6-Series. 😉
When using a tractor to level ground, the last thing I want to do is hand dig. Kinda defeats the purpose of the tractor right? Mite as well use a snowplow on a truck...
I don't think you had the back down enough, it wasn't riding level!!! It would have cut the clumps up better if it was set a bit more level, also when it gets that muddy adding a bit of weight on the back does help.
Agreed. This needs a base and fines added, but I don't own it, just lease. Not sure I want to spend the money. Better than it was and I can always come do it again!
A Land plane can level better than a box blade by it's self. It's no good for leveling dirt piles or moving lots of dirt to a low area. I use Topcon laser with receiver and blue tooth in-cab display for leveling with box blade. I also use same laser setup for mini excavator digging and tapering long ditches. Using box scraper while in seat, I scrap down high spots, fill low areas while in tractor seat by extending or shortening top cylinder. Raising or lowing Hyd box scalpers teeth from the seat helps dig or grade dirt while moving.
@@GoodWorksTractors yeah man, if you could get crushed limestone that works really good, it drains really well and doesn't get smashed into the mud that easy like other gravel . I've had really good luck with it . Maybe asphalt millings the local drivers can get me that stuff for 10$ a yard or less
I just bought a 4052M and really like it I know yours is much nice 4066R but they are similar machines! We're you just looking at something bigger ? Or have you had issues with yours?
Ha ha ha - did I hear you correctly? This land was bought for the gravel pits? Can they not add a few loads of rock to improve your entrance?? Seems too logical to me. I get this is not your property, but seems like the owner could pony up the rock! Nice video.
Love your videos. But this is a misapplication of that implement! I have a land plane (EA, no scarifiers) and I run it several times a year to maintain my 1/2 mile gravel driveway. If there are any puddles, the gravel and mud clump up in the scrapers. I'd never use it on straight mud. The few times I've used it on sod/dirt, I've made sure it was bone dry.
I agree. I don’t just make videos showing what works. Folks ask me day in and day out random questions. Like will it work in muddy conditions or why won’t it work in mud? Well, now I can show them this video.
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French drains and a shovel with an owner's manual.
I love how many UA-cam heavy equipment operators show up here. It was a great video that shows how the land plane works. Keep me coming. I don’t think some of the people understood this is a hunting lease and the road is perfect after you got done planing it without the gravel.
Haha, my favorite comment. Made my day, thanks Jade!
Good job leveling it out. The land plane is the best, IMHO, for the leveling jobs, but if you need to move dirt or gravel the box is my choice. I used tractors on my little farm for 20 years before I could afford a tractor with a FEL. Wish I had bought one 15 years earlier! Enjoy your vids and look forward to each one. Thanks.
If I’m moving dirt/gravel the bucket of my FEL is my first choice!
Love the dirt work with the box blade!
We use one on a calechee covered RV lot and it does an amazing job at keep it level and moving high spots into low spots to reduce the pot holes and make it easier to walk on.
Awesome, glad to hear it!
Speaking from experience with a similar road, only one which was much, much worse, I would suggest that you first use a disk-harrow to cut deep into the roadbed dragging in both directions 1-2 times each way. That deep cutting will allow the water to drain down below the roadbed from the top of the roadbed where it is standing. Then 2 days later use a landscape rake making several passes in both directions to further break-up any remaining wet clumps of compacted soil. Then come back 2 days later with your landplane you will find that the soil has dried out considerably (90% or more) from the deep cutting with the disk-harrow and the breaking up wet soil clumps with the landscape rake. You will also find that the job of leveling and returning the road to a usable (dry) roadbed will be much easier and a whole lot faster. Yes, it is a drawn-out system, but it is a system that worked for me on a road where cars, trucks and even tractors were getting stuck to the axels and I found that it actually help the roadbed to allow further rainwater to drain down through the roadbed instead of standing on top of the roadbed and creating a muddy mess.
This was a video showing how a land leveler worked, not how to build a road
I do driveways for a living with my TLB and almost always with a land plane. I have found when doing those types or driveways or trails that it’s best to hit it with the land plane with scarifiers down a few passes, then toss on a rear blade and roll that mud which will help with the ruts too. Then a finish pass with the land plane with the scarifiers up.
Did you try running it in reverse too? It works well in both directions. Looks like you did a good job.
A land plane is a great tool!
Hello,
It's kind of difficult to see from the video for sure, but it looks like the area is the lowest point. Before adding gravel, I would bring in several trucks full of fill to raise the grade a bit, and then add the rock and gravel. I have built several service roads like this with good results. The key idea is to completely keep the water off the road. In addition, add a swale or ditch along both sides.
It is pretty amazing what a land plane can do with a little patience! Good Job!
Thank you for the video!!! You know you can't watch your self when running equipment!! I like to watch your videos and ttwt. You moving the top link shown a better finish with the plane faced down in the front. It seem it cut better flat to the rear facing downward. Handy stuff thank you sir!!!
Haha, yeah I was messing around with the hydraulic top and side link. Seeing what worked best.
Hey! Thats really good considering how mucky that looked from here. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you sir!
Entertainment at its finest! Thanks for sharing! 👍👍😎
Haha, thanks Fred. Hope you're doing well!
Good hard work Courtney. It is far cry better than before.
I agree, thanks for watching Pastor!
Now these are the kind of videos I like to see. Action videos. Lately it’s been all talk. Gotta admit got a bit bored. lol. But totally understandable based on the weather we have in Michigan. Also with the way the governor makes it sound like we can’t go and do anything.
Wish I had time to make more of them. Time is never on my side, haha.
That is my favorite implement. Get a hydraulic top link. Makes it work even better. I also added 1" steel plates to the sides(about 300lbs). Digs in much better with less bouncing.
Yeah, I have a hydraulic top and side link on it. Love it. Good idea on the extra weight.
Nice job! Looks great. I do think, however, that a box blade works a little easier on this kind of wet stuff; especially with hydraulic links. Wish i could afford hydraulic links. At 68 it would sure be nice to make those adjustments from the seat😁
It looks like that works pretty well for leveling and filling in holes but you need some crown on a road to help get the water off of it. Can you lower one side and move some dirt to the middle?
My understanding is that land planes work better if the rear plane is lower than the front plane. Also, it looked like it could've used a bit more weight, though I suppose you were holding it up to see if it did a better job.
I like that fancy tool you used to remove mud from the planer. Very high tech.....lol
Haha, it worked!
looks good! and nice to see the 4066 in action
Hope you're doing well Mike!
@@GoodWorksTractors thanks courtney, doing fine here just getting more tractor time lol, stay safe buddy
Fun way to spend the afternoon especially during this shut-down. I think if I make my lanes any smoother folks will think i paved em. Lol
What’s best for putting in bluestone down an incline? This or box blade? Do scarifies help?
God question. I haven't used bluestone before. Perhaps someone else can assist?
Cortney… looks to me you will need to bring in multiple loads of gravel to build that road up 5 or 6 inches, to stand a chance against it being a muddy mess various times of the year.
100% agree. I just lease the land for hunting, don't own. Not sure I want to invest that kind of money in it.
@@GoodWorksTractors Right, gravel would make it great, but, that road was rock star level once you got done. I've poured concrete driveways over roads rougher than that. Bottom line, that land leveler friggin works.
I've used one of these for years and rarely use my box blade anymore
Great video. I have something similar I want to try with my leveler if it ever stops raining. I rototilled an area in my field for the kids to play soccer last fall. Now I want to get it nice and level. Box blade did okay but I'm hoping the land leveler with do a better job.
Yeah, I think the land plane's do a really good job...easier to use, but more of a specific application.
I've used a land plane to level 2.5 acres of my property. The key is to till first, let it dry, til again in opposite direction, let it dry, then use the land plane. The land plane works best when the dirt is dry and loose. Final step is a drag harrow.
I watching that guy. Very same thing I was thinking. Depend on traffic but I never ever seen a perfect non- upkeep road. They all need hit every little bit but fill them, wait while, run dry on top. Takes little time. Catch them before they get too bad 1 trick. I seen holes you can't fill in. I put I bet 1000 tons different sized rock & gravel in 1 hole it all go into a endless huge crack & long gone. Now that's my Old leftover cement hole. Old timer worked road construction his whole life told me many years ago. Good lighting hits you never get them places filled in. That must been a lighting hit I ran into couple places. If easy everybody could do picture perfect non- retouch job.
Good idea. This really wasn't a video about how to restore a drive, rather then showing how a land plane works.
Are you running the three point in a free floating position or a bit of applied down force? Also, are you putting an angle of attack into the center link?
how much time does it take for you to make these videos and I absolutely love the recent vids you've been making keep them coming
Haha, takes a lot of time. I'm glad you enjoy them!
a quik roll down would really help pack the road in. Would be great to see this a year or 2 later.
Overall it looks like it did a very decent job. Excellent demo! :)
Thanks Lea!
If you can crown the road with it, that would be best. Also, I have no idea how much shale is over there but here in pa we get it delivered for 80 dollars a tandem load. Get a solid foot thick of shale down and now you have it higher than the ground around it. Crown the shale and then hit it with a vibrating roller, you'll probably have to rent one. Your base will be very solid. Then if you really want to put more money into it 2rc is a clay limestone and limestone dust mix and roll that in following the crown. Then you could roll in some clean 2b and then 1a. Here we tar and chip that and roll it and that's how some of our roads are.
Nice vid! Finished product looked great! Was that tractor in regen some of the clips it sounded "off"
Thanks! Must have been the audio. The mic I'm using is on it's last legs. Just got a new one, but gotta get it fine tuned before using it.
We have a similar lane to grade / smooth off, but we have a box blade with scarifiers. Would that work ok?
highstepperARF I use a 72” box blade on a very similar lane. I don’t have a hydraulic top or side
Link, but i used a back blade tilted pretty steeply and moved dirt off wherever the lower side of the lane was. Then i used the box blade deep scarifying first and then tilted the Right side of box blade down about two inches lower than the right. Once you get used to your box blade you can feather it to make final grades and it looks great; almost
Like a land plane.That being said, I struggled with that lane year after year until I was able to do the above same thing using 23A road gravel (the stuff they use on road shoulders). Now it’s just annual minor maintenance with the box blade. I think both tools are great but have slightly different purposes. Wet stuff like we have, I think the box blade is a little easier and faster to use. But you can’t beat the land plane on dry gravel. Wish I could afford one.
Also, unlike the land plane, you work quite a bit slower with a box blade. That allows a little more time for the dirt to fill in and level.
I’ll tell ya what it came out pretty good though. Impressive. Great job
Thanks Patrick!
Like to see you really do a pitted road. With the land leveler. My area has hard clay in most roads.
Years ago when i first got into dirt work my forman told me ya cant compact mud. Ya gotta git ridd of the water!!!
100% better. Landplane to the rescue. Great job with that wet driveway.
Nice job! Looks great
Thank you Jon!
Well, I have never used a land plane, but have been considering 1 for the driveway. Always got good results with a box blade. just an observation, but looking at what you had to work with (or lack of) and how wet the material was, it turned out pretty good! I assume if it was dry, it would have brought the gravel to the surface much better, right?
Well this drive didn't never actually had gravel put down. That's just naturally occurring gravel in that area. Really needs to have a good base and fines brought in, but I don't think I want to spend the money.
Looks great- the problem I see is the low point is the road.
Was just out there yesterday. It is not the low point, but it is flat land.
Your link is for a 4’ land plane, what width was the one in this video? I’d be interested in maybe a 60” wide one for use behind my 3520 with the rear quick hitch.
I have many links in the video and options on my website. This one is a 72".
I run a 72” on a L3901, works great if you want more width.
The land plane seems to do a great job. Your vid reminds me of a mess I made on my clay driveway about 26 yrs ago with a blade on the 3 point hitch on my Dad's tractor. It turned into about 6 inches of "soup". It wasn't until I rigged up a drag that I was able to get the driveway dry.
Thanks for watching Colin!
The 90s were a great time.
You seem to like the R series. What is the depreciation difference you see between a 4052M and R? 5 year old tractor, same hours, is there a difference in the depreciation? % or real dollars?
Hello sir, I really appreciate all your videos, I have a quick question, I'm looking to put a small 30" flail mower on the end of a 3046r backhoe. The hydraulic motor for flail is minimum 10gpm, I was wondering if you've seen that, or know what the GPM at the power beyond is. Thank you for your time.
I have never seen that done, sorry
@@GoodWorksTractors OK. Thank you for the reply. I appreciate it. Look forward to your videos.
How do you reckon a Frontier PR1184 Power rake would have worked on this road.
I'd have liked to try it out. Bring it over!
One very good and easy way to help with the muddy soil is dropping a few tons of sand and then mixing the sand in with the soil as you're going. Especially if it's going to be a driveway or something like that period that just helps soak up some of the moisture and break up the Klumps
Does it matter on the type of sand?
Well anytime you need a tool to work on a tool so the tool can work appears to be an interesting experience. Would a rear blade be good to start then finish with the land leveler?
😂 I think the land plane worked really well. You want to add more tools to the party?!! 😂👍
Looks great!!!
I got hydraulic scarifiers on my box blade. I'm so lazy. Are hydraulic scarifiers available on this implement?
Probably some available with that option, but it would be a higher end model for sure.
Nice job but your road will remain wet .You need ditches and slope your road and a crown will improve things
looks like fun
Agreed, not the final solution. Needs base and fines brought in, more grading, but I don't own it, just lease it.
I have a new 2038R can I put electric actuator for the three point hitch on it?
Not that I'm aware of
The tractor doesn’t sound right...I’m series did you speed up the video?
Tractor runs like a top
Fence post to the rescue. Thanks for sharing...
Haha, in the nick of time
land plain is the way to go!
Id there a version of this small enough for the 1025?
Are the Ripper Teeth aka Scarifier’s sold separately? I don’t see any on the planes you have linked. Which model are you actually using in the video since it’s green & the linked ones are red (unless you just painted it?) Looking to purchase one for my 3032e
Bueller? Bueller? ..... ???
I don't sell them separately. Tar River land planes are sold out. These are what I can get right now. Thank COVID for disrupting supply chain like crazy.
Look into Geo Fabric. Little bit up front will save a ton in replacement rock and time.
Never heard of it, but will check it out.
@@GoodWorksTractors - geotextile fabric, sometimes called landscape fabric (comes in many grades) is used to prevent the earth from swallowing up your road and preventing erosion. I wouldn't build a gravel road without it.
Do you sell those land plane un-clogger tools on your website?
😂Those are custom orders...I can only uncover so many from the field!
@@GoodWorksTractors :-)
@@GoodWorksTractors The last one i "uncovered" popped up and speared a hole right in the bottom corner of my diesel tank. That "guard" under the tank on a Kubota might as well be tin foil.
Mine is a 84" woods painted green. Works great on my gravel lane. I was thinking of buying a rock bucket now for my 4052m, could you sometime do a video on one of those?
Yes, eventually I will
Looking good! Liked, Shared, Subscribed!
btw the road looks great!!
I appreciate it!
Those tires looked pretty good before you took the tractor off the trailer. I'm really starting to think that you just like cleaning tires.lol
Great video's keep them coming. I'd subscribe but I hate getting notifications.
😂Tires are the worst thing to clean!
If you don't turn notifications bell on you're all set to not get notifications. Sometimes even if you have it turned on you won't get them.
Thanks for sharing
Things definitely improved once you took the wet organics off the top.
Definitely!
If you could hit that again in a. Couple days before it gets rain on the drive way will be much better as it would have dried out some
Good idea.
As nice as that looks I'd like to suggest that you take a 3pt blade tilted at an extreme angle an cut ditch along one side to give water somewhere to go without pooling on the surface of the drive.
I agree. This was just showing how the land plan worked. Thanks for watching!
With mud I always use the box blade. never gets stuck just raise and it drops out.
Yep, different tool.
They are amazing on gravel roads
Thanks for the videos. You mentioned that a box blade may have been better. Which would you buy? I have a 700 driveway to maintain but I would like to also level out some dirt and cut trials thru timber. I’m leaning towards the lane plane because it seems easier to use. Thanks!
No, I think the land plane is better for this type of application. Yes, land plane is a lot easier to use for sure.
Thank you!
You’d want a box blade to cut and move large amounts of material. But it’s hard to maintain a gravel driveway with one. Because it’s cutting edge is straight across the back of the tractor, it’s very difficult to get rid of the washboard effect most gravel roads take on. You need something like a box blade with an angled cutting edge to solve that problem.
If the land plane has semi diagonal cutting edges together with those long side bars that aid in keeping it flat on the ground, it should be much easier to maintain that gravel drive and get rid of the washboard.
If you can justify the money put geo-tex highway fabric down first. The rock will always sink into the mud without it. It sounds like past efforts of gravel have sunk down already. Great to see the tractor doing real work. Thanks and take care
Yeah, looks like good stuff. I'd definitely consider it depending on cost.
Thanks Courtney, now need to decide between a BB and LL.
Thanks for watching!
AHA - looks like you have a hydraulic top link... I added that to mine two years ago.. Those things are the cat's azz! No more jacking it in/out to get an implement set - just hit the button on the joystick and VOILA!! Your job there would have been easier if the ground wasn't so wet.. Those land planes are great..
Yes, dry ground would have been easier. I like to do things the hard way :)
Do you sell any of these with the Ripper teeth like the one you used in your video, or no? The links you provided have no Ripper teeth
Tar River's are all sold out. The next level up LP2 has scarifiers.
Do you ha e rental plans for attachments ?, kind of waste of financial resources to buy something that you not need on regular basis
I don't. Rental insurance is extremely expensive. Not worth it for me.
I would of put gravel on the drive and skipped the land leveler work. Or just filled the mud holes with gravel if you wanted to be real cheap.
I would totally buy a tractor set-up from you. Where are you located?
Haha, thanks! Kalamazoo, Michigan
It looks good. Hard to work with mud unless you're making pottery.
That 4-Series is so nice, but sat in one and the cab is too small for me. I’m too tall...knees hit the wheel and I can’t do the pedals. Oh well, I guess I’ll just have to buy a 6-Series. 😉
Haha, 6 Series it is. For the record, I'm 6' 3' and 200 lbs. Fits me just fine.
Why’s ur bucket black?
It is a John Deere WorkSite Pro bucket that connects to tractor with Skid Steer Quick Attach (SSQA) not the John Deere Quick Attach.
Thanks for helping out, exactly correct
Now cover that newly graded road with blue shale.
tilt the bucket up when traveling so it cannot dig in over bumps
When using a tractor to level ground, the last thing I want to do is hand dig. Kinda defeats the purpose of the tractor right? Mite as well use a snowplow on a truck...
I'm not sure what prompted this comment
@@GoodWorksTractors the video of you hand digging the mud out of the implement...
I don't think you had the back down enough, it wasn't riding level!!! It would have cut the clumps up better if it was set a bit more level, also when it gets that muddy adding a bit of weight on the back does help.
I tried it in multiple positions as I had a hydraulic top and side link. Played around with it in every configuration I could think of.
@@GoodWorksTractors In that case I stand corrected! 😩🥴😉
The results are pretty good........ considering the conditions...
Need a 4% grade and some ditches. The waters got nowhere to go other than to sit on the road.
Agreed. This needs a base and fines added, but I don't own it, just lease. Not sure I want to spend the money. Better than it was and I can always come do it again!
I have a 4105 JD what size do I need and cost to ship it to Beaver Dam Ky 42320
Emailed earlier
A Land plane can level better than a box blade by it's self. It's no good for leveling dirt piles or moving lots of dirt to a low area. I use Topcon laser with receiver and blue tooth in-cab display for leveling with box blade. I also use same laser setup for mini excavator digging and tapering long ditches. Using box scraper while in seat, I scrap down high spots, fill low areas while in tractor seat by extending or shortening top cylinder. Raising or lowing Hyd box scalpers teeth from the seat helps dig or grade dirt while moving.
Land plane is definitely designed more for a specific purpose. Box blade is multi-purpose.
@@GoodWorksTractors YES YES YES THANKS!
2in stone road base would be perfect for this
Agreed
@@GoodWorksTractors yeah man, if you could get crushed limestone that works really good, it drains really well and doesn't get smashed into the mud that easy like other gravel . I've had really good luck with it . Maybe asphalt millings the local drivers can get me that stuff for 10$ a yard or less
With edge dainage road just Goin flood as the edges are higher than road bed
Agreed. All this video did was show how a land leveler works. This was not a "how to" on how to construct a road.
Is the tractor for sale that’s what I want
Yeah, decided to keep it for now due to the changing economy. Not sure about the status of our move unfortunately.
I just bought a 4052M and really like it I know yours is much nice 4066R but they are similar machines! We're you just looking at something bigger ? Or have you had issues with yours?
I would have made use of front bucket scaped sod ans grass off first then hit it with the land plane
Nice vid. But I'm stickin with my box blade
It was at 4:20 when Courtney realized he mistakenly attached the bucket, not the Brush Crusher 🤦♂️
Haha!
I'd have to do away with the backup horn
I hate it
Looks like great job,several passes,who cares,itsa enjoyable afternoon,
Thanks George!
Land leveler did ok. Now I would haul in some 1 1/2” rock and spread that out
Scott Klossner he DOES NOT own the land it's just a hunting lease
Ha ha ha - did I hear you correctly? This land was bought for the gravel pits? Can they not add a few loads of rock to improve your entrance?? Seems too logical to me. I get this is not your property, but seems like the owner could pony up the rock! Nice video.
Correct, bought for gravel pits. Never actually excavated though.
now would be the perfect time to put down base rock.....
Sure, but I don't own the property and don't farm the property. I lease it for hunting only. Not looking to invest that type of money into it.
Love your videos. But this is a misapplication of that implement! I have a land plane (EA, no scarifiers) and I run it several times a year to maintain my 1/2 mile gravel driveway. If there are any puddles, the gravel and mud clump up in the scrapers. I'd never use it on straight mud. The few times I've used it on sod/dirt, I've made sure it was bone dry.
I agree. I don’t just make videos showing what works. Folks ask me day in and day out random questions. Like will it work in muddy conditions or why won’t it work in mud? Well, now I can show them this video.
@@GoodWorksTractors Totally understand! Thanks again for your awesome videos. I get a lot out of them.
It doesn’t take the Government to make a road!
Ha, no sir
why would you ask a camera "How are you doing?" ?
Sounds like I picked up frogs in there must be water around
Yes sir, pond was just to my left from where I was standing.