Harbor Freight 3 Gallon Air Compressor Repair
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- Опубліковано 3 сер 2024
- Diagnosing and repairing a Central Pneumatic 3 gallon 1/3 HP 100 PSI oil-free pancake air compressor from Harbor Freight (part # 60637, 61615, 95275).
When I received this I was told that the unit was five years old, used for lightly for inflating car tires and cleaning grass off of a mower, and most importantly that it would only get up to about 35 psi and the pump would keep running. That is all I had to work with to get started and here is the process and the result.
#HarborFreight
To replace my gasket I used a black "rubber" o-ring 1 3/8" OD x 1 5/16" ID. The original orange one had flat sealing surfaces and the new one is round, but fits the recess in the head and seals well. It's a fairly common size, found in the plumbing dept of a local hardware store for $.99. Part of the oange gasket had disintegrated and lodged in the reed valve preventing closure as described in the video. Most of the black debris seemed to be wear from the rubber piston ring seal. Debris came off easily with carb cleaner, then once clean I applied a light coating of oil on the cylinder wall before reassembly. Thanks for the outstanding video.
your video gave me the confidence to 'pop the hood' and look around, the hardline had snapped at the ferrule on the lower/air tank end. 'stretched' the line replaced the ferrule, so far so good. if it breaks again i'll add rubber hose to the hard line for a flex/give fix
“This is a harbor freight tool, so I will put my eye protection on”. 😂🤣😂
Thank you - cleaning the reed valves solved my problem as well. GOOD JOB.
My 3 gallon Central Pneumatic air compressor was having the same issues as this one. When I opened it up, it has a different cylinder/valve arrangement then shown. What had happened, is the one-way isolation valve in the cylinder head had come apart. When that happens, it can't build pressure over 40 psi. I reinstalled it and now it works perfectly! What's odd, is it looks just like this compressor on the outside until you open up the cylinder.
I've had this compressor for 12 years and it's worked flawlessly. Just had to replace the 5amp breaker recently for $7. Definitely got my money's worth
I bought this exact model from Harbor Freight. Brand new but it doesn't build any pressure. No leaks.
you would think HF would have a rebuild kit for that
Having just disassembled my hotdog model, I can tell you, this repair will not last too long. I took that little white cover off on the end. The cam shaft for the piston was worn to a cone shape. Even though there is a still perfectly functioning bearing below the piston, the retaining clip had broken causing the piston to rattle around on the shaft, which appears to be made of pot metal.
Good job. I just bought a first time owned a central pneumatic air tank with quick disconnect kit with it. I filled the tank at 80 PSI . The next day I checked the tank it help the 80 PSI, but when I hooked the air gun it lost all the 80 PSI when I only used the airgun 4times in one day. I will check fittings and hose that I got from harbor freight. Thank u for the video.
Nice, thanks for showing me how to repair my compressor!
This is a great replacement for my old regulator/oiler that started leaking It came with brass nipples that saved me a trip to the hardware store and even came with teflon tape.
I thought I had the same problem, but once the cover was off I found it was the tube going into the tank. A new ferrule and it works again. Side note this happened after about 10 uses and 4 months of owning it, 1 month after the warranty expired.
Thank u I have the same compressor and the same problem with it u helped make this job easier for me
right on the dime; very specific on its service - thx bro 👌
Thanks😎
Thanks for this info. I will try that on mine since I have the exact same problem you fixed..
Very informative. I'm ready to diagnose my own harbor freight compressor.
Before I started listening I knew the 1st half I didn’t need, I bought two of these for $22 each , I should kept one for parts , but took one back. Overall good info.
Awesome video👍👍
One of the main reasons for failure of these compressors is lack of initial run-in.
The manual says to open the drain cock and let it run at no load for 30 minutes on initial start.
Should’ve read my manual. Yet here I am!
Had exact same issue. Compressor reached 100 psi in 2 minutes after I cleared debris from the piston head assembly and re-sealed all threaded fittings with Teflon tape.
I can hear no air leak even with the chuck I can see no bubbles spraying all the connections even under the hood there is no air hissing because it won't build any pressure
NO PRESSURE AT ALL NOT EVEN ENOUGH TO BUILD AIR TO WHERE I CAN HEAR IT HITS NO BUBBLES ANYWHERE WHEN I SPRAY IT DOWN
@@MikeTyson2. Reed valve [on piston top old model] has debris, due to No filter on these units, preventing seal on compression stroke. Clean under reed valve with mineral spirits on stiff paper, Slide under reed, after other steps shown. note; cylinder is separate from head, He left it in place. ;)
@@blogengeezer4507
The actual intake air coming from with this pump is from 5 small holes visible through the cutouts in the motor. I sprayed some lube there to be drawn in while operating, and the charge time dropped 20 seconds. The atomized oil should also lightly coat the reed valves and tank interior for some corrosion protection.
Great video thanks!
Glad you liked it!
It has ALLWAYS aggravated me to see that all the little compressor head/cylinders on portable 12volt tire inflators are an open bottom cylinder with no protection from invironmental debree and not lubbed. I open them op when new and lube the cylinder and install a cheese cloth backing on the louvers to filter out dust and other particles. I renew this procedure occasionally and it extends the working life of them significantly . dandahermit
Great idea! 💡
I sprayed some lubricating oil into the air intake at the 5 holes inside the pump housing and it improved the charge time by 20 seconds.
The only issue with mine is that the pressure switch kicks on and off right at 100psi instead of 85psi cut in and 100psi cutout that it's supposed to be.
Beautiful Jamaica 😮
Good video 👍
I have exactly the same issue. Never could get it above 30 psi. You get what you pay for.
Had a central pneumatic 98070 with same issue. Luckily it wasn't hard to fix. However, the check valve nearest to the tank was locktighted in, so I had to use a cheater bar on my wrench ratchet to get it off. The rubber nob meant to keep the air from flowing back to the head wasn't seated in the spring, so had to press it back in and clean off the mating surface so the air wouldn't escape. Hopefully it'll last one more year before I shell out for a new compressor I can actually find and buy replacement parts for.
I got one of these for free sitting by a dumpster, my gaskets sank into the valve and got cut in two so hopefully it keeps pressure once I make a new gasket!
HF tools aren't made to milspec tolerances. Therefore, after the break in period (10 uses +/_), probably not a bad idea to do a teardown and parts clean. Think new car oil change after 1000 miles. I do this with all tools I want to keep working as described.... especially generators (change engine oil after 1 hour, then again after 10 hour or as recommended and replace stock dip stick with magnetized one... that new engine shrapnel is a motor-killer!).
Also, all that debris inside the cylinder, was a paper pad, that used to protect the reed calve from impacting the cover. (This is according to the exploded view in the manual.)
What was the time required to pump to the 100psi cutoff from empty?
That's the best indicator of the condition of things.
Mine took about 3 min 48 seconds; does anyone with one of these get anything faster than that? Curious to know what the fastest time might be.
After I sprayed some lube into the air intake, the charge time went down to 3 min 28 seconds, down 20 seconds.
Inside it looks like the little 12 VDC ones you carry in the trunk. I opened one of those which failed and found the piston "ring" was just thin plastic, maybe polyethylene. Once that tears, toss it since no rebuild parts. I can't tell what the piston seal is in this one. I doubt any that don't have an oil bath lubrication will last long. Here searching because I have my slightly larger HF dual tank one apart, which has an oil bath, since it will only pump to 40 psig. I stopped at head removal since appears the problem was gunk on the reed valves from the upper head gasket degrading. Not sure what they used, but appears a failry thick green fibrous/waxy material. Looks like I can buy another gasket.
My 2 year old, same compress just started bogging down on me yesterday and kicked the reset button and smoking so I think my motor is out. I guess I will take it apart tomorrow to see if it is the problem. It will only run for a minute now.
Brand new right out of the box I had to replace the leaking drain valve. Also the tire Chuck that came with there kit was junk incapable of inflating a tire.
Did you figure if you just exchanged it, you would just get the same issue again?
Other than an "eager" pressure relief valve, mine has been holding up pretty well over 6+ years of occasional use. I hope mine isn't special and they usually last this long.
I just discovered a major design flaw on my HFT compressor (same as this one). The little compressor pump is mounted on the tank with four #3 Phillips machine screws, with isolator pads between the pump mounting plate & the tank. BUT....from the pump cylinder to the tank, they used a piece of....get this....6mm OD aluminum tubing. Ferrule fittings on each end. So one end of the tubing is mounted to the cylinder that could potentially vibrate (hence the isolator pads), while the other end is mounted solidly to the tank. Aluminum tends to fatigue fairly easily, and guess where the leak was? The tubing had given way, right at the tank end where it's solidly mounted. I'm going to see if I have a short piece of braided stainless (about 6") and replace the aluminum tubing with that. I only gave $15 for it at a garage sale, so it's still a bargain. 😆
edit 9/7/22
Instead of the braided stainless, I made a new tube using a longer piece of 6mm aluminum tubing. But instead of just going from the cylinder head to the tank in a direct fashion, I coiled it to provide a little bit of "give". Wrapping the tube around a wooden dowel (1.5" diameter) 3 times, which made nice even coils without the tube deforming. Working great so far.
REALLY,!! Awesome...
My 95275 model has copper tubing rather than aluminum, maybe it was before they went to aluminum tubing. All the connections still holding up on mine, no leaks as it holds 100psi indefinitely.
I just bought one yesterday and it has this issue out of the box.
Yikes!
Hello, thank u for the video... Mine has the gasket all bad, any suggestion what van I use to replace with a new gasket?
RTV?
Auto supply store has various "gasket goop" s to choose from. Pick one that is sufficient for the heat and air pressure rating. You can also buy gasket material you can trace and cut. My $0.02
My safety valve keep opening up when it builds air, I replaced it, still same. Any idea?
I had no idea these central pneumatic compressors actually worked, I've had one with this problem of not going past 30 psi for 15 minutes of pumping, since I bought it, I thought that was just normal because harbor freight stuff is usually crap
Thanks for this video. I just recently bought this compressor and it was working for a few uses but today when I tried to turn it on it doesn’t seem to turn on at all. What do you think I can do? Thank you!
if you just bought it (new) return it for a new one and use the warranty. if it is not under warranty, work methodicldily check for leaky valves, then check the fittings are tight and slowly work through the unit like I did in the video.
I have the same compressor. Mine will not turn on. I thought it may be the fuse. Anything else would stop it from not starting at all?
3 in 1 oil has varnish in it.. it will dry out and get sticky..
I'm thinking silicone lube would be better for an OILESS air compressor.
i think its light mineral oil. What do you use then?
Mine was broken out of the box. Liked the size, but no quality control.
Is it still working after this simple repair? :P
My compressor starts working and builds pressure up to 150psi but sometimes during work it will not start and won't keep tank charged. Sometimes it turns on only for a few seconds then goes quiet. Sometimes I hears something that it wants to start like air going somewhere through the pipe for about 2 second and then quiets and stays like that. Fails to keep up pressure in tank when I use it. Pressure goes low as 50psi but compressor doesn't start. Then I had to open drain valve to release remaining air pressure in the tank. Disconnect it from AC power for few minutes and it starts working again build up to 150psi again. I don't hear any air leaks. What could be wrong? How yo fix it?
The mostly tools of Harbor Freight made in China and Harbor Freight support customer with 3 month warranty for their tools. The most trouble with tool always happens after 6 months. Most of other store are always give 12 months warranty for their tools. The price from other store higher a little bit but the warranty is longer and quality is better. Should think twice before shopping.
Along with rectifiers, this seems to be a common problem with these little compressors.
Hello I just bought the central pneumatic pancake air compressor, but it did not come with a fuse. What kind of fuse does it take and where do I order them from?
I bought one of these, and within a few uses the coupler/fitting of the compressor broke. Once I found the problem and replaced it, the regulator knob broke. Now I need to fix the regulator. Does anyone have a replacement recommendation for the knob?
3D Print one.
FYI if you pulled the sleeve out of the head and removed the seal ring the top plate would come off and give you direct access to the Top reed valve which you fished out the gasket debris from. Bad part for these compressors is little or no intake air filtering which leads to their demise.
Do you know where the air intake for the compressor is?
Is it visible without removing the compressor from the mounts?
i just got one of these. yesterday it was working. today the meter wont move. its just not pumping. do you have any advice
He just posted a video full of advice. Do all the steps and see if the meter moves.
If it is a HF compressor......pitch it and get one on sale(40.00). Mine lasted 5 years, it crapped so I bought another one.
Hi, I have a similar one. The aluminum Pipe outlet is broken. Do You know where I can Buy a replacement? Thanks for the video
My guess is that you may be able to improvise a steel brake line or a copper ice maker line using a flare kit.
Mine has copper tubing, it must be an older model before they switched to aluminum.
I bought the central pneumatic air compressor and shortly after the check valve blew apart. I still haven't found a replacement part and harbor freight does not offer spare parts so I basically have an air compressor I can't use !
Think of it as spare parts for your next HF compressor.
Could I use WD-40 for engine degreaser?
Why does my 3 Gallon limit is 180psi on the tool section and only fill to 80psi and turn off, why cant it go to 180 or near??
can i hack it to go up more
Hi friend I have one like that one but my want not charge any air in the tank , can you help me out please
Just work methodically through it. Does the pump run? Is the drain valve closed and sealed? Is the regulator jammed? There could be many possible issues, just have a process and be methodical.
Can I find a motor for that model? Mine went out.
the so called read valve is stuck like up, like open, ,, not flat on the piston,, is that good or bad, I push it down flat on the head but it comes up,, not flat like you show it...
That would mean the Reed valve needs to be replaced/repaired to lay flat.
Mine just died . It won’t turn on
I got a brand new one for my birthday and it doesn't build up past 20 psi. Im gonna tear it apart and see whats inside bahaha
Turns out the air line from the cylinder to the tank was broken during assembly because it was overtightened and twisted at the fitting, they used soft aluminum line
You sure you don't have #1 and #2 Phillips confused..?
I highly doubt that's on with #1
Pretty sure the screwdriver you showed is #2
I was about to say the same thing. They are indeed #2 Phillips. 4 screws into plastic (4 corners) & 2 bolts into brass nuts at the handle.
What size fuse does it require
'Oil-less' compressors are for convenience... not quality. Just like anything from domino's to dentistry... short cuts are for losers. My motto is always... treat it like a boat repair and you'll stay afloat more better