Dude I swear to god you are the realest person in the world right to me right now I couldn’t figure out which fuss the REM went into i was honestly almost in tears when you called out the correct one Thank you for this video man
I love your honesty throughout this video. Can tell you're a good dude just from how you go about this video. For me, this was the best install video for this. Like you, I couldn't find anything that actually helped. There's just some simple things folks miss or don't explain well ... you've got it all covered though and it's appreciated. Would love to know where your car's at now.
Thank you 100x over for making this video. I searched for so long trying to figure this out and your video explains everything crystal clear. Thank you!
This does work well by using sub1+ / sub1- on right and sub2+ / sub2- on left for a line output converter LOC thanks for the video I was looking for this again cant find any other tutorials that uses the sony system and tap into OEM subwoofer wiring to install a LOC perfect location. Hopefully will help others with OEM subwoofers that want to install a LOC if the oem subwoofer is DVC which has sub1 and sub2 wiring it should hopefully be universal so this will help others.
I ONLY WATCHED 10SEC OF THIS VIDEO CUZ IM RUNNING LATE BUT, WHAT I CAN TELL U IS, RUN YOUR RCA OR SIGNAL WIRES ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE AS YOUR POWER WIRE, THE AVERAGE VOLTAGE ON A AFTERMARKET STERIO'S RCA OUTPUT IS 2.5 VOLTS SO BY ADDING A LINE DRIVER, U CAN BOOST IT ANYWHERE FROM 7 TO 14 VOLTS (i had a cadience qxr 7 volt line driver w/crossover & it was much louder & allowed me to turn my gain down on the amp a lot,allowing the amp to run cooler & operate easier!!!) n the next system I will run a 14 volt line driver & a 350 amp alternator, 2 dry cell batteries or two 1,000 amp batteries & add a 1 farrod capasitor!!!
For anyone who doesn't want to go on the passenger side for power wire go to under your driver side and look left and up. There will be a rectangle cut-out of insulation and behind that is a grommet the size of half a phone and is right by the battery, and not near any heat/moving parts. I'd run the wire through the hole without the grommet then cut a hole through it(the grommet) and push the end not connecting to the battery through. Do not use the twist connections like in this video, they are meant for housing applications and can/will come loose overtime with vibrations. Use proper crimp connectors if you choose to crimp, or solder if you want to permanently connect wires. Also, any time you add any aftermarket parts with wires running into or out of a battery you should atleast fuse it once within a foot, so you protect your wire from heating up until it burns into an electrical fire...
Also, no problem with the twist connects yet. Maybe I'll crimp them when I get the time. I did say this was my first time doing this so mistakes are expected...
NOOBTUNE i wouldn’t worry about twist connections those are use for 120v and 240v applications and they do not vibrate apart if sized appropriate for wire size and twisted plenty of times. Not sure why someone would object to those and would rather have a crimp connector with a far higher probability of pulling loose. I would however suggest some black tape or liquid tape to keep the elements from entering the bottom cone of the connector.
The line converter goes to a back speaker not the sub. Take both positive wires and tap into the positive wire on the speaker and same with the negatives. Usually the excess ground isn't needed. 1 back speaker is all that it needs to be tapped into
As a noob trying to do this exact thing, whats the downsides to tapping into the subwoofer wiring? Should I just tap the LOC into a rear speaker at the factory amp harness (far easier than taking the door panel off)? Someone mentioned the rear speakers attenuate at higher volume, can I tap into a front speaker instead?
@@fanuilhback speaker usually is easier and less rca to run. Stock sub is already amplified and you're trying to get a low input from a line con. So you're basically trying to put a low input on a low input. If you hook it to the sub anyway you'll get no sound
I am currently running the power and rca cables in my 2018 focus and your video has helped me to locate a grommet to run the power cable through the firewall, it seems like they didn't take into consideration for aftermarket sound systems when they designed the firewall and grommet locations.
Thanks for the tutorial ! I'm actually trying to set up an amp on my ford focus se 2014. I bought an 8 gauge amp kit and ran the power cord already to the back. My problem is figuring out how to connect the rca and speaker cables to the amp. And btw, what fuse adapter did you use ? Thanks.
I'm a little confused on what you mean by RCA and speaker cables question, but I'll go out and look at mine and get back to you. As far as fuse tap I went to Advanced Auto they only had one kind. Think it was made by Littelfuse. Also, they call it an Add a circuit holder.
Yeah my issue was the same as Jonny's. I couldn't get any Audio coming from the speaker wire that I connected to the amp with an LOC that I bought from Best Buy. Any tips?
NOOBTUNE I actually kept the old sub connected and tapped into the rear speakers instead. I was hoping to keep both installed. Can you not make that work?
Might work...I'm betting the problem is how the LOC is wired. I had to look at a lot of different diagrams for the sony system before I got it to work. I'll look to see if I can find the site and link it.
Will removing the ground that’s on the chassis make it safe to then attach my power wire to the red terminal? My Ford Escape Ti battery is tucked far away and can’t reach the negative terminal to unhook
On the driver side on the inside its right next to the brake pedal its a black grommet its kinda a pain in the ass to get out but much easier to run wires.
Yea i didnt even know that firewall plug was on the passenger side. I wanted to ask you about the door speakers you did. Ive got a 2014 focus se are the brackets the same or no cause mine are 6.5's all around.
You can also buy aftermarket bracket to save you time and from having to cut the stock speakers out. www.amazon.com/dp/B01BTSVXWK/?coliid=I1DATMXAVYIAER&colid=3AW855RGK5H7V&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Thanks! To be honest I would have as well. Turns out I don't know anyone that can do this like I used to. At one point I stopped a guy riding down my road because I heard he had bass. After realizing I was not some crazy person he told me his cousin did his.
So for the loc how what did you have to ground on it Because the loc I have had a ground wire 4 speaker wires and a power wire. Would you still hook it up the same?
How did it work out with using the subwoofer wires as your input? I am likely doing this with mine, but I will be using an Audio Control LC2i, which is an active (powered) converter. I am only running 8 gage power and ground, and using them with a Kicker DXA250.1. That amp will be driving one of Kicker's compact sealed boxes that has a 6.75" CompRT driver, and 6.75" radiator, which effectively doubles the cone surface area compared to the stock sub (which is actually NOT an 8" sub, but rather a 6.75" Driver, with an oversized basket for an 8" cutout. Measure the diameter of the woofer, and you will see.). Got any sound clips of your amp and sub running?
I still applaud what you have done in this video, but I still do not understand why you had to take so much of the car apart. As I mentioned in my first comment, I have had a 6.75" Kicker Comp RT box and little Kicker monoblock to drive it with in my ST for over a year now. No removal of any of the dash or factory HU. How I did this, is I simply cut the stock subwoofer connector off (I left a 6" pigtail with the connector on the stock box in case I need to put it back together to stock), and used both sets of speaker wires used for the stock sub as the inputs on an Audiocontrol LC2i (they can handle 300+ watts input signal). Wired up my monoblock like a conventional amp, and everything is stowed away under the floor. I also installed a Kicker bass knob on the drivers side of the lower dash (near the OBD port cover). I have the bass on the factory HU EQ set to -2, midrange to -1, treble to +2, and the gain on the amp is set to 10-o'clock, and the bass boost is shut off. I can say It is louder, deeper, and hits harder than stock, and blends in very well with the other speakers in the car. From what I have learned, you need an active line converter like the LC2i, or one from MTX, Pheonix Gold, etc. As long as you have a powered stand-alone LOC, you can get away with just using the sub wires.
@@trevorcook6235 what Ford did, is they just used 2 pairs of smaller gauge wires to make the positive and negative leads. I guess they did this because it was cheaper than using a larger and/or different size wire than the rest (they just summed 2 pairs of 18 gauge to make a pair of 14) . Also, I double checked this, by taking the driver out of the Sony Cabinet, which turns out is a Dual Voice coil woofer from the factory (though I can't recall if it's 2 ohms or less), and the coils were wired together, with a pair of the (summed) wires connected to the negative terminal of one, and the other pair to the positive of the other. So I simply utilized the pairs the same way for the correct polarity to my LC2i. I did leave a 6"pigtail with the Molex connector on the stock box, so I could wire it back in if I ever needed to return it to stock (if selling or trading the car in).
@@iandavis8755I have an lc2i as well and I was just wondering if you could tell me what harness you cut and what wires you used to wire up the LOC? If you happen to still have the car of course. I want to wire everything myself so I'm trying to get as much info as I can, thank you
@@willy54th It depends on the vehicle. Since my car is a 2014 Focus ST, it has the optional Sony System with Sync 2, a 7-channel amp, and single 8" sub(or rather, 7" with an oversized basket/frame). I simply traced and then cut the speaker wires for the stock sub (they strangely use two pairs of 16 or 18 gauge wire from the sub channel of the stock amp to the sub, instead of 1 larger pair, and they sum/twist both positive wires together, and 2 negative ones together on the terminal of the sub), and left enough of a pigtail to put it back to stock, if I ever needed to. The speaker wires for the sub channel of the stock amp sends the signal via the speaker level inputs of the LC2. Luckily the LC2i has a control to balance the input signal voltage, which is awesome because the stock stereo cuts/throttles the bass on the sub as you go to higher volume (to protect the stock components from distortion), and the LC2i prevents that from happening, and raises the gain back up so that the bass stays the same level as the mids and highs. Also because of this, I don't use any bass boost on the LC2i, OR on my amp (which is a tiny, but powerful Kicker DXA250.1), because I don't need it. I even have the bass setting of the 3-band EQ on the HU set to -2, my mids to -1, and treble to +2. With the gain on the amp set to about 10 O-clock, and the bass knob to control the volume of the amp on my dash set to about 2 O-clock, the sound is the way I want it. As a result, my little Kicker Comp RT 6.75" sub (43TCWRT672) sub box plays deeper, louder, and harder than the stock sub ever did, with no distortion.
So is it possible to keep the stock sub in the car, as well as having the aftermarket. I want to do a quick disconnect with the aftermarket, and still maintain some sound quality. In other words I would like to have my cake, and eat it to!
thinking about doing this to my ford fiesta 2019 but shit looks way too complicated especially how the door speakers are. had a hella time doing it on a focus and just tapped into the back door panel speakers for the sub and did a fade towards the back which sounded great till volume went up 😂
will riseabove best thing to do is get a custom T-harness. I got one made for my 16 Focus and ran both front signals to the back and 4 channels back up to the harness going back into the factory wiring. I have an LOC in the back, but you can get a harness with one built in so you can just run RCAs from behind the head unit. Super easy for these newer cars, no need to tap into door speakers or run bigger wire unless you’re doing a full system with 150W+ RMS to each door haha plus Ford attenuates the rear signals so at higher volume it rolls off a ton of the bass/mid-bass.
will riseabove no problem man! Just FYI I got mine from LLJ Customs online, PlugNPlayKits has some on their site as well, both with plenty of customizable options! 👍🏻
I'll be the 5th sub 👍🏻. Also have a black ST but the 17plate st3. Totally disappointed with the system. I had the previous focus (mk2) with the Sony system and it was fantastic, then I got in this and was like "what the shit is this distorted bag of wank"
Worst "upgrade" system ever. I would rather have two 6x9s than that joke of a sub. Thanks for the comment, I'll be doing the CP-E intake with a RAM air next. Just waiting for them to arrive... I know there's a lot of videos on them already, but I'm pretty much just doing videos of me learning as I go. Thanks Again!
NOOBTUNE I have a "DIY" crossover pipe with the RS air box and open end filter. Sounds really good. I can't justify the price they are trying to charge for a bit of pipe.
Hey I would take that cheap plastic engine cover all it does is keep more heat in my previous car 08 Altima had one when I did a tune up all those wires and material will be cooked and burnt especially being turbo FYI did to my 2017 ST
Yeah, it was because I tried to keep the stock harness for the stock amp/sub. I ended up just cutting the harness off and hard wiring, worked fine after that.
Yeah factory wiring is weird, I replaced head unit on my 08 xr5 with an android one, works awesome but still getting old Bluetooth signal, Ford has a box somewhere in the wiring for the BT, it's pissing me off as I didn't unpair it first now my factory reset phone keeps getting connection requests, arrg have to buy my new phone soon. But great vid, I bought an under seat amp sub combo but doesn't fit due to air vents under there. So will have to fit in the hatch part somewhere and run the cables.
Accually I think I figured it out. But how the hell did you cut a hole in the grommet?! I've tried like 10 different ways and I can't do it. That shit is strong and hard to reach
I am looking to do this with my 2013. So to get this clear, do you need to remove the head unit to do any of This? This will be one of my last steps to my car. I ended up doing fmic, cold air, down pipe, catback, BOV, RMM and tune first lol.
Well did exactly what you said. The amp turns on, but now my left sub looks like it's spazzing out and the right sub doesn't work. Checked connections and everything seems okay. But not working properly
You're an absolute legend. Thank-you for this. Its 2022 and this video still has the most information I could find. Thanks!
Dude I swear to god you are the realest person in the world right to me right now I couldn’t figure out which fuss the REM went into i was honestly almost in tears when you called out the correct one
Thank you for this video man
I love your honesty throughout this video. Can tell you're a good dude just from how you go about this video.
For me, this was the best install video for this. Like you, I couldn't find anything that actually helped. There's just some simple things folks miss or don't explain well ... you've got it all covered though and it's appreciated.
Would love to know where your car's at now.
Thank you 100x over for making this video. I searched for so long trying to figure this out and your video explains everything crystal clear. Thank you!
"Now, there is a GARMET."
Bruh ... I'm saying this from now on. Thanks, man. Using your video as I fight with these panels to get my amp wires in.
a piece of metal coat hanger is one of the handiest things you can have for pulling wires through tight spots
This does work well by using sub1+ / sub1- on right and sub2+ / sub2- on left for a line output converter LOC thanks for the video I was looking for this again cant find any other tutorials that uses the sony system and tap into OEM subwoofer wiring to install a LOC perfect location. Hopefully will help others with OEM subwoofers that want to install a LOC if the oem subwoofer is DVC which has sub1 and sub2 wiring it should hopefully be universal so this will help others.
Would like to know more about how you did it.
I ONLY WATCHED 10SEC OF THIS VIDEO CUZ IM RUNNING LATE BUT, WHAT I CAN TELL U IS, RUN YOUR RCA OR SIGNAL WIRES ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE AS YOUR POWER WIRE, THE AVERAGE VOLTAGE ON A AFTERMARKET STERIO'S RCA OUTPUT IS 2.5 VOLTS SO BY ADDING A LINE DRIVER, U CAN BOOST IT ANYWHERE FROM 7 TO 14 VOLTS (i had a cadience qxr 7 volt line driver w/crossover & it was much louder & allowed me to turn my gain down on the amp a lot,allowing the amp to run cooler & operate easier!!!) n the next system I will run a 14 volt line driver & a 350 amp alternator, 2 dry cell batteries or two 1,000 amp batteries & add a 1 farrod capasitor!!!
For anyone who doesn't want to go on the passenger side for power wire go to under your driver side and look left and up. There will be a rectangle cut-out of insulation and behind that is a grommet the size of half a phone and is right by the battery, and not near any heat/moving parts. I'd run the wire through the hole without the grommet then cut a hole through it(the grommet) and push the end not connecting to the battery through.
Do not use the twist connections like in this video, they are meant for housing applications and can/will come loose overtime with vibrations. Use proper crimp connectors if you choose to crimp, or solder if you want to permanently connect wires.
Also, any time you add any aftermarket parts with wires running into or out of a battery you should atleast fuse it once within a foot, so you protect your wire from heating up until it burns into an electrical fire...
Good to know. It is fused within a foot. It came with it.
Also, no problem with the twist connects yet. Maybe I'll crimp them when I get the time. I did say this was my first time doing this so mistakes are expected...
NOOBTUNE i wouldn’t worry about twist connections those are use for 120v and 240v applications and they do not vibrate apart if sized appropriate for wire size and twisted plenty of times. Not sure why someone would object to those and would rather have a crimp connector with a far higher probability of pulling loose. I would however suggest some black tape or liquid tape to keep the elements from entering the bottom cone of the connector.
Thanks! I'll be doing that today.
So were does the rca go
The line converter goes to a back speaker not the sub. Take both positive wires and tap into the positive wire on the speaker and same with the negatives. Usually the excess ground isn't needed. 1 back speaker is all that it needs to be tapped into
As a noob trying to do this exact thing, whats the downsides to tapping into the subwoofer wiring? Should I just tap the LOC into a rear speaker at the factory amp harness (far easier than taking the door panel off)? Someone mentioned the rear speakers attenuate at higher volume, can I tap into a front speaker instead?
@@fanuilhback speaker usually is easier and less rca to run. Stock sub is already amplified and you're trying to get a low input from a line con. So you're basically trying to put a low input on a low input. If you hook it to the sub anyway you'll get no sound
@@TheFailedHero Awesome, thanks for the quick reply too!
@@fanuilh hey no worries. If you have any issue just reply
I'm about to do this exact thing in a 2017' RS 😁
This was a big help. Thank you sir
Awesome, happy it's helping people. I was having a hell of a time finding videos when I was trying to do it.
I am currently running the power and rca cables in my 2018 focus and your video has helped me to locate a grommet to run the power cable through the firewall, it seems like they didn't take into consideration for aftermarket sound systems when they designed the firewall and grommet locations.
They never do as far as I know but they should
Great vid, trying too install a sub to my focus, and having probs finding a 12 volt switched source for the remote side of the amp 👍
plinkytx cheers, will look into that, just strange there is nothing by the sync 2 to turn 12 volt on and off 🤔
Where did you get the remote from?
Thanks for the tutorial !
I'm actually trying to set up an amp on my ford focus se 2014.
I bought an 8 gauge amp kit and ran the power cord already to the back.
My problem is figuring out how to connect the rca and speaker cables to the amp. And btw, what fuse adapter did you use ? Thanks.
I'm a little confused on what you mean by RCA and speaker cables question, but I'll go out and look at mine and get back to you. As far as fuse tap I went to Advanced Auto they only had one kind. Think it was made by Littelfuse. Also, they call it an Add a circuit holder.
Yeah my issue was the same as Jonny's. I couldn't get any Audio coming from the speaker wire that I connected to the amp with an LOC that I bought from Best Buy. Any tips?
Did you keep the old harness from the stock sub?
NOOBTUNE I actually kept the old sub connected and tapped into the rear speakers instead. I was hoping to keep both installed. Can you not make that work?
Might work...I'm betting the problem is how the LOC is wired. I had to look at a lot of different diagrams for the sony system before I got it to work. I'll look to see if I can find the site and link it.
Nice vid mate, at least you're giving it a go. Gotta do mine too but she's a little different and RHD.
why didnt you ground it to the boot, instead of running two big long wires through the car? cheers
What was the point of the ground wire under the bonnet? Think I missed something.
Will removing the ground that’s on the chassis make it safe to then attach my power wire to the red terminal? My Ford Escape Ti battery is tucked far away and can’t reach the negative terminal to unhook
Also do you have to hook up a wire from under the stereo to the amp?
On the driver side on the inside its right next to the brake pedal its a black grommet its kinda a pain in the ass to get out but much easier to run wires.
Yeah...didn't know that when I did this, but have had no issues as of yet.
Yea i didnt even know that firewall plug was on the passenger side. I wanted to ask you about the door speakers you did. Ive got a 2014 focus se are the brackets the same or no cause mine are 6.5's all around.
So what I did in the door speakers was cut the speaker out and used the those ones. Don't see any reasons you couldn't do the same.
You can also buy aftermarket bracket to save you time and from having to cut the stock speakers out. www.amazon.com/dp/B01BTSVXWK/?coliid=I1DATMXAVYIAER&colid=3AW855RGK5H7V&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
That would have been easier...
Nice! You're a better man than I.... I took it to "The Guy"
Thanks! To be honest I would have as well. Turns out I don't know anyone that can do this like I used to. At one point I stopped a guy riding down my road because I heard he had bass. After realizing I was not some crazy person he told me his cousin did his.
So for the loc how what did you have to ground on it Because the loc I have had a ground wire 4 speaker wires and a power wire. Would you still hook it up the same?
How did it work out with using the subwoofer wires as your input? I am likely doing this with mine, but I will be using an Audio Control LC2i, which is an active (powered) converter.
I am only running 8 gage power and ground, and using them with a Kicker DXA250.1. That amp will be driving one of Kicker's compact sealed boxes that has a 6.75" CompRT driver, and 6.75" radiator, which effectively doubles the cone surface area compared to the stock sub (which is actually NOT an 8" sub, but rather a 6.75" Driver, with an oversized basket for an 8" cutout. Measure the diameter of the woofer, and you will see.).
Got any sound clips of your amp and sub running?
I still applaud what you have done in this video, but I still do not understand why you had to take so much of the car apart.
As I mentioned in my first comment, I have had a 6.75" Kicker Comp RT box and little Kicker monoblock to drive it with in my ST for over a year now. No removal of any of the dash or factory HU. How I did this, is I simply cut the stock subwoofer connector off (I left a 6" pigtail with the connector on the stock box in case I need to put it back together to stock), and used both sets of speaker wires used for the stock sub as the inputs on an Audiocontrol LC2i (they can handle 300+ watts input signal). Wired up my monoblock like a conventional amp, and everything is stowed away under the floor. I also installed a Kicker bass knob on the drivers side of the lower dash (near the OBD port cover). I have the bass on the factory HU EQ set to -2, midrange to -1, treble to +2, and the gain on the amp is set to 10-o'clock, and the bass boost is shut off.
I can say It is louder, deeper, and hits harder than stock, and blends in very well with the other speakers in the car.
From what I have learned, you need an active line converter like the LC2i, or one from MTX, Pheonix Gold, etc. As long as you have a powered stand-alone LOC, you can get away with just using the sub wires.
@@iandavis8755 what do you do with the rest of the stock sub wires you only use 4?
@@trevorcook6235 what Ford did, is they just used 2 pairs of smaller gauge wires to make the positive and negative leads. I guess they did this because it was cheaper than using a larger and/or different size wire than the rest (they just summed 2 pairs of 18 gauge to make a pair of 14) . Also, I double checked this, by taking the driver out of the Sony Cabinet, which turns out is a Dual Voice coil woofer from the factory (though I can't recall if it's 2 ohms or less), and the coils were wired together, with a pair of the (summed) wires connected to the negative terminal of one, and the other pair to the positive of the other. So I simply utilized the pairs the same way for the correct polarity to my LC2i. I did leave a 6"pigtail with the Molex connector on the stock box, so I could wire it back in if I ever needed to return it to stock (if selling or trading the car in).
@@iandavis8755I have an lc2i as well and I was just wondering if you could tell me what harness you cut and what wires you used to wire up the LOC? If you happen to still have the car of course. I want to wire everything myself so I'm trying to get as much info as I can, thank you
@@willy54th It depends on the vehicle. Since my car is a 2014 Focus ST, it has the optional Sony System with Sync 2, a 7-channel amp, and single 8" sub(or rather, 7" with an oversized basket/frame). I simply traced and then cut the speaker wires for the stock sub (they strangely use two pairs of 16 or 18 gauge wire from the sub channel of the stock amp to the sub, instead of 1 larger pair, and they sum/twist both positive wires together, and 2 negative ones together on the terminal of the sub), and left enough of a pigtail to put it back to stock, if I ever needed to.
The speaker wires for the sub channel of the stock amp sends the signal via the speaker level inputs of the LC2.
Luckily the LC2i has a control to balance the input signal voltage, which is awesome because the stock stereo cuts/throttles the bass on the sub as you go to higher volume (to protect the stock components from distortion), and the LC2i prevents that from happening, and raises the gain back up so that the bass stays the same level as the mids and highs. Also because of this, I don't use any bass boost on the LC2i, OR on my amp (which is a tiny, but powerful Kicker DXA250.1), because I don't need it. I even have the bass setting of the 3-band EQ on the HU set to -2, my mids to -1, and treble to +2. With the gain on the amp set to about 10 O-clock, and the bass knob to control the volume of the amp on my dash set to about 2 O-clock, the sound is the way I want it.
As a result, my little Kicker Comp RT 6.75" sub (43TCWRT672) sub box plays deeper, louder, and harder than the stock sub ever did, with no distortion.
What did you plug into the standard wiring harness to convert sound
So is it possible to keep the stock sub in the car, as well as having the aftermarket. I want to do a quick disconnect with the aftermarket, and still maintain some sound quality. In other words I would like to have my cake, and eat it to!
Did you ever figure this out yes it is completely possible
You've earned a subscriber
Thank You!
Would this also work on a focus st st1?
Everything will work if you know what your doing. St1’s don’t have Sony sound system with stock sub.
Thank You !!!!!
Hope it worked out for you.
Lsc .could tell me which wire you hooked in to . Like color to color plz
What color is the front speaker wires?
thinking about doing this to my ford fiesta 2019 but shit looks way too complicated especially how the door speakers are. had a hella time doing it on a focus and just tapped into the back door panel speakers for the sub and did a fade towards the back which sounded great till volume went up 😂
will riseabove best thing to do is get a custom T-harness. I got one made for my 16 Focus and ran both front signals to the back and 4 channels back up to the harness going back into the factory wiring. I have an LOC in the back, but you can get a harness with one built in so you can just run RCAs from behind the head unit. Super easy for these newer cars, no need to tap into door speakers or run bigger wire unless you’re doing a full system with 150W+ RMS to each door haha plus Ford attenuates the rear signals so at higher volume it rolls off a ton of the bass/mid-bass.
@@rogueghost2012 appreciate ya looking out bro definently gonna try this after the holidays lol
will riseabove no problem man! Just FYI I got mine from LLJ Customs online, PlugNPlayKits has some on their site as well, both with plenty of customizable options! 👍🏻
Where does the rca cables connect to?
How many feet of power wire did you have? The guy who ran mine drilled a hole right by the steering rack.... So I wanna move it to the pass side.
want to say 25'
I'll be the 5th sub 👍🏻. Also have a black ST but the 17plate st3.
Totally disappointed with the system. I had the previous focus (mk2) with the Sony system and it was fantastic, then I got in this and was like "what the shit is this distorted bag of wank"
Worst "upgrade" system ever. I would rather have two 6x9s than that joke of a sub. Thanks for the comment, I'll be doing the CP-E intake with a RAM air next. Just waiting for them to arrive... I know there's a lot of videos on them already, but I'm pretty much just doing videos of me learning as I go. Thanks Again!
NOOBTUNE I have a "DIY" crossover pipe with the RS air box and open end filter. Sounds really good. I can't justify the price they are trying to charge for a bit of pipe.
F85 for the tap? My ac comtrols turn off when the 7.5 fuse gets pulled? Nvm I just added the 7.5 to the 10 on the fuse tap and ac controls work!!
Thanks!
Hey I would take that cheap plastic engine cover all it does is keep more heat in my previous car 08 Altima had one when I did a tune up all those wires and material will be cooked and burnt especially being turbo FYI did to my 2017 ST
Did you figure out why your Bluetooth audio was not playing?
Yeah, it was because I tried to keep the stock harness for the stock amp/sub. I ended up just cutting the harness off and hard wiring, worked fine after that.
NOOBTUNE awesome, thanks!
Yeah factory wiring is weird, I replaced head unit on my 08 xr5 with an android one, works awesome but still getting old Bluetooth signal, Ford has a box somewhere in the wiring for the BT, it's pissing me off as I didn't unpair it first now my factory reset phone keeps getting connection requests, arrg have to buy my new phone soon. But great vid, I bought an under seat amp sub combo but doesn't fit due to air vents under there. So will have to fit in the hatch part somewhere and run the cables.
Mick Wolf you could always just pop the little vents out. They just sit in there, nothing is holding them down
There's so many little wires on the stock amp. How do you know which is which
Accually I think I figured it out. But how the hell did you cut a hole in the grommet?! I've tried like 10 different ways and I can't do it. That shit is strong and hard to reach
Look in the other reactions, they said something about the drivers side. You can find a wiring diagram on the internet :p i did it like that
I just stuck a knife through it, then stuck the needle nose through that to grab the power wire.
NOOBTUNE I ended up using a drill, then pliers
Whatever works, it's a pain anyway you look at it. Hope this vid helped you along the way.
I am looking to do this with my 2013. So to get this clear, do you need to remove the head unit to do any of This? This will be one of my last steps to my car. I ended up doing fmic, cold air, down pipe, catback, BOV, RMM and tune first lol.
No, doing it this way you DO NOT have to remove the head unit. Good luck and hope this video helps.
Well did exactly what you said. The amp turns on, but now my left sub looks like it's spazzing out and the right sub doesn't work. Checked connections and everything seems okay. But not working properly
How many channel amp did you use?
NOOBTUNE 2 channel amp
Update only the left speaker works. Ill.need to check voltage on the right side for the amp
Which door speakers did you use to replace the stock ones?
They are JBL, can't remember the model.
All the videos are of an install that has already been done. Im just like really ...
6th sub here
Thanks!