@@mlee6050 The service steps and tools needed between the AXS and XPLR AXS is different. I wouldn't use this guide video as a reference for the XPLR post there will be some significant differences between them. If I come across a XPLR AXS I'll make a service video for it
Concerning the grease, I didn't discover anything as you found in the dropper. Mine was just dirty. There was just a lot of mud in the collar on the back side. My dropper is 3 years old and used a lot in the mud.
That's good to hear. I'm really curious to see what the dropper I'm going to be doing a 600 hr service on looks like inside. I really hope it nothing like the one in the video.
I would definitely love to see the 600 hour service if your buddy is willing 🙂. Also the dropper post definitely needs to be inflated to 250 psi as the service manual indicates. Any less and it will not extend as fast as it's supposed to.
funny you ask this. I was going to open it again for a 600-hour service based off what I found in the 200 hour but decided to call rockshox first to ask about the non-matching pin (which threw me off) as I wanted to replace all of them. They said all the pins should match in a reverb and the one pin that was different was most likely a manufacturing miss. They asked for the dropper to be sent back to them. Their thinking the one pin that didn’t match is the reason for the excessive wear, which was super unexpected when I took it apart. I don’t currently have it and it seems like it will be replaced. I’ll try and find another one to make a 600 video. 👍
So seeing this service every 50 hours of use? Also any tip how to track time without digital gadgets I'm now refuse to use dropper for a planned journey cycle 4802 miles in 20 or say days, 16 hours a day
Great Video thank you. Would you by chance know if the AXS silver collar is interchangeable with the black one on a normal reverb? I really don’t like the way the silver looks on my build. Cheers Chris
Thanks for the comment. unfortunately I can't say for sure at the moment. You given me something to look into though. I'll let you know when I know for sure
Thanks for the video, good tips. this will definitely help me out when I service my post. One thing I'd like to note. when torquing, you need to have the crowsfoot at 90 deg. to the head. anything else will either increase or decrease the amount of tq being applied, regardless of the the torque wrench says. Also thanks for showing the Air valve release, I never knew that. I'll keep that in mind if I ever get a squishy post. One question though, is it normal for the post to extent a little when hung or picked up by the seat?
"when torquing, you need to have the crowsfoot at 90 deg. to the head. " Yup! You're 100% right. And I am guilty of forgetting to do this way more often than not. (Just to think it's going to get worse as I get older) 😱 For anyone who happens to watch this video, please follow Chris' advice and make sure to angle a crows foot to 90 degrees when using it with a torque wrench, or else you will need to apply a formula in order to make up the difference. I will make sure to be a better example of doing this in future videos. 👍 "is it normal for the post to extent a little when hung or picked up by the seat" Are you sure it's fully vented before resetting the post? it's a bit tricky to get the last bit of air out.
@@adrnln_jnke definitely stay on top of the 50 hours on this post (all posts really) its easy and it helps protect the post and you. You don't want to be in a position my buddy is in right now. SRAM has had the post in this video for about a month and the bike shop still can't get an update. Not cool!
Good video, but need to mention that a crows foot on a torque wrench needs to be 90 degrees to the handle. If it is straight, you are lengthening the lever arm applying additional torque that the wrench can't see.
"but need to mention that a crows foot on a torque wrench needs to be 90 degrees to the handle" YUP! I tend to forget this one occasionally and thankfully there's people out there to point it out. I believe someone else mentioned this when it was first released, but feel free to mention any detail that might have been missed so I can either add it in the description section or ensure I don't make the same error in future videos. These videos are meant to help all of us have a better experience 👍
Great video, thank you! My entire top section (where the battery attaches) is frying batteries. I have another unit but with a different internal seatpost diameter. Can I just swap bottom seat tube pieces to replace the defective top unit? Or is there a better solution here?
"My entire top section (where the battery attaches) is frying batteries" That's really odd. How old is the post. Something like this should be covered under warranty. Otherwise, yes, you should be able to swap it without issue, If I understand the ask correctly. But still, I'd try to warranty it if possible
Hello, is it possible to add sram butter under collar ? and for this is it possible to unscrew only collar ? if yes do I have to deflate the seatpost ? thank you
This is going to be my official answer based on my experience with these posts. These are great posts. BUT,,, they Absolutely need to be inspected VERY regularly. I would honestly not go more than 100 hours ( depending on use) without looking at the bushings inside them and applying new grease. The bushings have a coating on them that fails EASILY (I hope Rockshox sees this), and if they fail, they can damage the post. The only way to know if your bushings haven't failed yet (and they will fail) is to regularly look at them. Do yourself a BIG favor. It's easy enough to remove the post, open it, inspect it and apply new grease. Do this regularly Also, don't EVER use dynamic grease on bushings and pins. ONLY use SRAM butter or an equivalent.
"Any chance you'll do a non AXS Reverb from a few years ago?" That's the plan. It's sort of similar, but it does have some differences that are significant. I can't say for sure when, as I'm only now slowly getting back into making the videos again, and still traveling a good amount of work, but I'll get one out. Thanks for the comment and for taking the time to watch it
So I bought mine second hand a little while ago, seemed very new at the time. Then noticed the dropper got sticky and needed a hand to come back up a week or so ago. So was getting ready to do a service and watched your video as a guide before starting. I only removed the collar a minute ago to add a little grease because I planned a ride this week and I need to wait for the parts to arrive later this week. you really got me a little panicked so didn’t want to wait with adding a bit of grease. When removing the collar I noticed some weird white muck on the treads, I’m assuming it’s some anti cease stuff? Any thoughts?
I would have to guess anti seize as well as it can be bought in white. The previous owner might have used it since there is a good amount of force to torque the collar. On a side note, my buddies post was warrantied by SRAM, then gave him a new one that showed up two weeks ago.
As long as the post isn't sagging, there really isn't a need to vent it. But one thing I would keep up with on these axs reverb's is the 50-hour service. The Teflon rings on these posts wear quick, and I'm convinced the dynamic grease rockshox uses doesn't help. If the Teflon rings wear, it can seriously damage the post, as is seen in one of my videos. If you don't actuate the posts much, then you can check it every 70 or 100 hours. But if you use it regularly, I would check it regularly
So, I bought secondhand axs 125mm a few months ago and only just now fitted it to use on my build ONLY to findout that it does not fully extended past 100-105mm by itself. I can pull it to up to 125mm but it compresses back down to the same 100-105mm. I have tried bleeding air out of it twice and it is still the same. So I am guessing my bargain axs was not the bargain after all AND I should of full checked it when I bought it beyond just testing it went down and up a few times and it hopefully just needs a service and nothing worse.
@@zoubtube UK. The only way that I can could get it to fully extend is by constantly pushing down on the bleed screw 15-20ish times which would result in the post very slowly extending a few mm at a time, which I am guessing is not a good thing to do? Oddly enough after doing this quite a few times while still trying to bleed it, it will now will fully extend off the button/paddle BUT still drops about 10mm when pressing down on it and then back up 10mm again so it has got me completely frustated and really confused, which if I am honest doesn't take much these days. Haha.
@@IMac8939 damn! if you were in the US I was thinking send it to me so I can fix it (Gratis of course) and make a 600hr service video for everyone, which is sounds like it needs to fix it (my guess ifp seal seaps air) Now that the season is in full swing here I most likely won't be able to make a 600 hr service video on an axs until fall or unless one starts failing. Cost effective shipping from the UK takes time both ways and still has quite an expense (The world is worried about proper pronouns and I want is a portal wormhole! That would solve this quick, then I can walk through an ride sedona when I'm done 😁). My guess is it'll will cost less and take less time to get fixed there. when you get a moment try looking into it the options and let me know. 👍
@@zoubtube Thankyou. It is a shame I can not take you up on your kind offer. I so what rebiuld kit do you think I will need ? I did have a quick look online for 200hr service kits but some show 4 parts and yet others show 8 parts consisting of 2 of some of the same parts. Is the IFP inside the inner shaft/sealed section ?
@@IMac8939 "It is a shame I can not take you up on your kind offer" Agreed, its a small world but not that small yet The 600 hour kit is the following: Part number 11.6818.051.001 www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/rockshox-reverb-axs-600-hour-2-year-dropper-seatpost-service-kit-with-ifp-requires-oil-height-and-ifp-depth-tools (no affiliation) You will also need oil: SS-OIL-RVB-A1 I will say that availability can be challenging . I know my local bike shop had them a few weeks ago. Not sure if they still do today (probably should have bought a kit to have handy). The 600 hour is more involved than the 200 hour in this video. You will end up dismantling the entire dropper. I do plan on making a video on this but need to wait for a dropper that needs the service.
Hi. lots of oil has leaked out of my air valve after I changed the air pressure for the 1st time and now the seat will not rise to full height. It works but I've lost about 3 inches of rise due to so much oil coming out of air valve. Could I send you my seatpost for a full 600 hour service?
Sure, not sure how to set this up though. FYI though, it will have to be quick unless your not in a rush. starting on the 9th im going to be traveling pretty much all of june for work ☹
Any chance soap/detergent got inside when your buddy was cleaning the bike and broke down the grease? I mostly use just water to clean my bike and would say it has prolonged the life of many greased parts - suspension, pivots, headset/BB, etc...
I'd have to say the chances are extremely slim, for 2 reasons. 1: He doesn't wash his bikes very often, and I mean rarely. when ever he does he makes a point out of it as I keep bugging him about it. 2: The only time I've seen him wash one of his bikes it was a simple spray down. riding in the rain would've done more. I put out another video where I worked his ibis linkages. The only reason it looked clean is because of me. It's like he says, " I need to bring my bike here more often so it can get cleaned" 😁 The Post is currently with rockshox. I called them about the pin that didn't match and they are thinking it was a manufacturing error. "All pins should match on reverb post" is what they told me. that was the first time the post was opened. it'll be interesting to see how it goes.
@@zoubtube Interesting... I wonder what they would have to say about the grease becoming clay? What do you think about using Sram butter or Slick Honey instead?
@@jawzzy3 Funny you ask about sram butter. When I mentioned how the paste completely dried out, the sram tech’s immediate response was literally "that's why I use butter instead". Unofficially he made it clear to me that for him, butter is a much better option. I’ve never had an issue with sram butter/slick honey etc for forks, shocks, and droppers. Next time I service a reverb AXS, I’m using butter! My personal thoughts on what happened. Chances are the tech is right in that the wrong pin was installed during manufacturing. Apparently, this happens occasionally. The only difference in the pins is the diameter. Manufacturing the post has a limit in tolerances, so each post gets measured and then match with the proper sizes pins to meet specs. My guess is the post was essentially imbalanced by the one pin, which might have created more than typical friction, which significantly wore out the one side at a quick rate. The debris mix in with the grease and turned into the mess we see in the video. Again, this is just a guess though. I could be way off! 😉
I think you forgot this? Activate 'Service Mode': Press and release the AXS button on the seatpost once to set the seatpost to 'Service Mode'. In 'Service Mode' the internal valve is open and the seatpost will compress by hand.
I could be wrong, but I don't think this really applies to the 200 hour service. we're not setting up the internals in the 200 service, it's basically just a lube job. And as can be seen in the video, I used the service button to reset the post height after removing the sag prior to starting the 200 hour service, which is good practice. I believe the service button is needed for removing the sag, and for the 600 hour service in order to keep the valve open for the bleed
@@zoubtube Probably. The service manual doesn't specify why, it just states that the valve should be open before opening the seatpost, but then again, they mix 50/200/600h service in the same document and you might be right.
@@irfuel I'm pretty sure its not an issue. The post worked perfectly after the 200 hour. The valve isn't activate for this service. SRAM did replace the post though. turn out the wear I found in it was a factory error. One of the pins was the wrong size, which applied unequal pressure and wore out one side. Surprising how quick it wore it down. As for 600h service kit. You can get them from your local bike shop, 11.6818.051.001 they can get them. $85 though, expensive imo, but then again what isn't these days with bikes
Not sure what you mean. I only did the 200 service in this video which doesn't require an oil change. the 600 hour service replaces the oil. I will be making a 600 service video
@@adrnln_jnkeGood observation. I didn't think about that. that's just oil mist that comes out with the air when releasing the air. it's not a significantly amount of oil in any way. when releasing air from shocks, forks, droppers etc, contaminated micro particles will come out with the air. it not good to breath them in at all. Covering the valve with any cloth or towel prior to releasing the air is a good practice as it will block those particles.
I just did my dropper using this video. It was extremely helpful! Just some things I did differently: I did not remove the seat. I clamped the dropper on the bolts that hold the seat in a Workmate, not in a vise, so no need to stress about the seat being positioned correctly when reassembling. I removed the foam ring from the collar with a plastic pick, cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol and drenched it in Rockshox 0W30 suspension oil. I just did the same thing you do with that thing as you would on a lower leg service. So I did not pack the foam ring with grease (it isn't greased from the factory, but oily), I only put the grease on/in the rubber ring above it. My dropper has approx 220 hours on it, and it became really hard to push down. After this service it's working as it should again. Thanks for the video!
Awesome feedback! It's Greatly appreciated as it should help others. I'll be posting a 600 hour service soon, probably beginning of july if all goes well. 👍
@@irfuel They are very hard to come by. I ordered one from a shop that had it in stock. its supposed to deliver on monday. I asked the shop to verify that its the right part number kit, which they did, but we'll see when it gets here. crossing fingers on this one! 🙏 What really sucked was my LBS had them in stock in april and didn''t buy any of the kits figuring that I get them when I needed them. lesson learned!
Just had my Fox factory Transfer serviced needed a new shaft as coating had worn off just where yours had but worse very expensive and my old reverb was the same but not AXS type. It's winter that destroys dropper posts and even on the trail if I stop I would give it a wipe. A mud guard stops a lot of the wet slim hitting the seal head but it will get through. The pins always need replaced and I use slick honey than sram butter as it dries out.
WOW! even worse than the post in the video. that a ton of wear. the post in the video did have a factory defect. the pins should have been the same and they weren't. Rockshox did end up replacing it. Though my buddy rides year round he uses his fatlike for winter riding. the post in the video was on his trail bike, which he stores in the winter. not sure how many muddy days it's seen but its a great observation and I will make sure to let him know. thanks for the info. 👍
Thanks for making this Video. I was looking for a long time for this video. Eventually I gave up and downloaded the official SRAM manual, bought all the required tools and did the 200hr service. Couple of questions: 1. You know that the venting tool also used to unscrew the valve cup right? 2. By the end of the video you are doing venting procedure but this time you use the remote in order to open the the dropper after compression, does it matter? I the beginning you did it with the service button on the dropper itself. 3. Do you know what to do if the venting procedure doesn't solve the squishing problem? Do you thing 600 hr's rebuild will fix it? 4. Did you check with SRAM that nasty corrosion that you have discovered ?
1. You know that the venting tool also used to unscrew the valve cup right? Not only did I not know that, it never even crossed my mind. Thanks for the insight myman! So much information to retain these days, so little brain cells. Help is always appreciated! 👍 2. By the end of the video you are doing venting procedure but this time you use the remote in order to open the the dropper after compression, does it matter? I the beginning, you did it with the service button on the dropper itself. - I used the remote to verify that the whole system worked. Either way works though 3. Do you know what to do if the venting procedure doesn't solve the squishing problem? Do you thing 600 hr's rebuild will fix it? - My guess (assuming everything else is good) An IFP seal is going bad and air and oil are starting to mix. I'm sure the 600 hour will take care of this. I actually regret not recording the 600 hour service. My buddy didn't feel like spending the extra money considering how new the post way. I should have just bought the kit and done it. I'll definitely will be making a video on it. Now, I know two people who have this post. They're going to need a full service eventually! 👍 4. Did you check with SRAM that nasty corrosion that you have discovered ? - Actually, SRAM still has the post. The latest update was last Thursday, and they're still looking into it. Taking longer that I thought it would
Hi again ! I use now the new dropper. The online bike shop send me a new one in exchange of the old one who has a big sag just after few months. Now the new dropper has a little sag like 3mm. It's worth it to do the valve procedure or it's better to leave it like that ? On the old dropper the valve procedure was a big fail and from a little sag i get a big sag. Also please tell me what service rebuild it must be done for get rid of this sag ? 200 or 600 hrs ? I have the new dropper for almost 100 hrs . Maybe i get again a sag because i am a heavy guy and i use a lot this dropper pushing up and down all the time ? What do you think ? Also on the front on the dropper bar, when i go up some golden lines from the inside appear time to time ? Maybe is the grease applied by me who came out time to time ? I don't understand why this expensive dropper has sag time to time. Sram can't do a free sag dropper ? My first cable dropper doesn't do this but i brake the cable 4 times and is a shity situation to remain up with your dropper. I 'm waiting your help, please ! Thank you very much !
I'm sorry to hear you're having issues with these posts. They are great posts, but unfortunately, they are prone to sag. Before attempting any service, always start with the venting tool, as I explain in this video starting at 8:34. If this doesn't take care of the sag, then you're going to have to bleed the post, which is part of the 600-hour service. The 200-hour service will not help with this. You most likely won't have to change the seals if you have less than 100 hours on the post, but you will have to open the post, remove the oil and IFP, fill with oil, set the ifp and close the post back up. It's actually not a hard job. After you do it once, you will easily be able to do it again. Hopefully this helps
@@zoubtube , thank you for your help ! The actual sag is very little, like 3mm or smth. Sram said in the manual of the seatpost that is normal to have 5mm sag. If it's bigger they recommend to proceed for valve procedure. In this situation what do you think ? For me is not normal that a seatpost to have sag, it's weird that they said that. It's not at all a cheap dropper post. What is the max pressure do i need to pump in the dropper ? Because i am a big guy and i need that my dropper to rise up fast :)))
Question...if my post is making a clicking sound when i twist the seat back and forth, is that indicating the collar and/or pins are likely bad? I thought one of my suspension links might have heen the culprit, but no its the seat for sure. Its really annoying because its constantly clicking when im pedaling on rough terrain.
When you say "twisting the seat back and forth" do you mean rotating left to right, or do you mean pushing front to back. If rotating left to right, then there's a good change that the pins are starting to wear. If back and forth, then I'm pretty sure the sure you're bushing are either wearing, worn, or with this post, the lower bushing might have delaminated, which is something I've been trying to warn people on. Though I haven't worked on hundreds of these post, I've worked on enough to notice the coating on the lower bushing delaminates very inconsistently, sometimes it last a long time, other times it doesn't make it to 100 hours.
@zoubtube it might be both haha. I'm going to tear this thing apart soon and hopefully it'll be salvageable. Just getting the proper tools together so that I'm fully prepared. Thanks for the video and for the reply
@zoubtube pretty annoying too that you can't figure out which size pins go with the particular reverb unless you tear it down. Called sram with the serial number thinking they could tell me the pin size so I could order them in advance, but nope
@@thereignofthezero225 I TOTALLY agree! It's a PITA and I wish SRAM could be more helpful with this. At least it doesn't change over time, so once you open it, you'll know for good!
@@thereignofthezero225 instead of wrenches, I would put the money into either an adjustable crows foot, or individual crows feet, since they can be used for both removing and installing to torque specs
I believe so. I know there are black caps for the regular reverb. Looking on google I see black top caps that look identical to the AXS version, but cant; say for sure if its compatible
That is very helpful, THX a lot! :D My post was mega-dirty on the inside. Even the stantion got scratched by the grid. Be on top of your service intervals, people. Subbed for more ^^ Oh, would you have a link or recommendation for the crowfoots used? I live in Germany and cannot find any online. thx again! Cheers
Glad to hear you found the video helpful. I also recently posted a 600 hour video that might help in the future. Your absolutely right with keeping up with intervals. They are great posts, and super practical, but considering the expense, I would definitely regularly check them every 50 hours or so to make sure the innards are ok As for crow feet. I've bought some on amazon, others at harbor freight. the ones on amazon you can by individually. or you can buy a package set, which will save you some money, and then buy the missing sizes individually Large sizes www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SI7FMI2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Typical sizes www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08QV3PQVK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Group sets www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-3-8-eighth-inch-crowfoot-metric-wrench-set-94427.html www.amazon.com/RamPro-Drive-Crowfoot-Wrench-Standard/dp/B071Z253MH/ref=asc_df_B0719BLYH3/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309813767497&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5843056846311596839&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9016979&hvtargid=pla-568081655239&th=1 www.amazon.com/s?k=crowfoot&i=tools&crid=3ELW0LYHVL6YT&sprefix=crowfoot%2Ctools%2C95&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
WOW! Great! Thanks a lot for the links! :D I'll watch your 600h for sure. I just ordered the pins, as my post hat a lot of play from side to side and back and forth 😕 C ya, cheers!
This video is amazing. Thank you so much. One thing I never see addressed is how the main head assembly attaches to the IFP tube. Can you talk about how that's attached and if it's possible to tighten it when play is present? Thanks again!
glad to hear the video was informational for you. when you say head assembly to the IFP tube, are you talking about the actual tube that holds the IFP on the inside? I have a 600 hour service video for this dropper that explains this. the tube literally snaps into the base of the head Btw, if you do the 200 hour service for this dropper, don't use dynamic grease. the stuff sucks for the outer dropper tubes. I literally just finished servicing an AXS 3 hours ago, and yet again, the dynamic grease dehydrated into a clay type paste, which ended up damaging the bushings and tubes. rockshox need to revise their service docs on this one
@@zoubtube Thanks for getting back to me. Sorry, I don't know the exact names for things. When I say "head assembly" I'm talking about the piece with the saddle clamp and battery housing. When looking at it, it just looks like it's a press fit with the outer tube. I've looked at dozens of exploded diagrams of the Reverb and not one has showed that top unit being separate from the tube. I ask because I just got my first ever dropper post (I've been a very stubborn holdout) which is the Reverb AXS. And after only 4 rides, it developed a little play in that top piece and the connected tube. A mechanic friend assured me that a little play is normal and it happens with all droppers. My question is why? So I just want to understand how those two pieces are joined and if anything can be done to remove the play. Also, why is that even acceptable? Thanks again for the great info.
Yes! Don't leave any nuts loose, and make sure you don't overtighten them. Most nuts on this dropper are made with soft metals, which can strip easily. Also, I've worked on a good amount of these over time, and as much as I like these posts, I highly recommend checking them more often than not. I wouldn't go over 100 hours without checking the bushings and applying fresh grease. It's quick and easy enough to do and can save you a potential headache.
Yesterday my axs was instaled by myself on my aluminium frame ebike. Big thumb up for your video ! Good advices and good explanations ! Thank you very much for your effort ! When i installed this droper i whiped out the old grease from the seat tube and use a little seat green grease from Zefal inside the seat tube. I had to use friction paste or a seat grease on the whole droper tube who is catch in the seat tube ? Sram specify in the item brochure DO NOT use grease. What shoul i do ? Also i don't know how to mantain this droper. My old cable droper was whiped out from grease and dust with wet paper and dry paper towels after every ride. This one need same procedure ? And from time to time, when the droper was not so smooth, I unscrewed the large nut, operated the dropper from the remote lever, the white gasket popped up, wiped off the grease and dirt, applied new Sram butter and screwed back the large nut back in place. At Reverb axs, what do I have to do from time to time? Please give me some advice because I don't want to do something wrong. I can tell you that my droper don't see water or mud. Thank you in advance from your answer and please help me with some advices !
"Sram specify in the item brochure DO NOT use grease. What should I do ?" This is a debated topic. I "just about" always use a thin layer of grease, whether it is metal on metal or metal on carbon. On carbon frames, I always seem to use carbon pastes because every carbon frame I've owned (or come across) seems to have a loose fit when installing a seat post/dropper. So instead of over torquing a seat collar, I use the carbon paste to fill the extra space in the seat tube. If the seat post fit is tight in a carbon frame, then you basically don't need to grease/paste. Service the post annually and you will be good WARNING! There is a possibility that a metal post in a carbon frame CAN seize, even with carbon paste. I came across this last fall with a friend's bike. We ended up having to use a large pipe wrench with a lot of force to remove the dropper. The dropper housing had a good amount of corrosion at the top part of the seat tube. It was a fat bike that gets ridden in the winter. Our guess is the salty road conditions caused this over time. If he regularly maintained his bike, this most likely wouldn't have happened "Also, I don't know how to mantain this droper" If I see dirt build up around the wiper, I remove it. Typically, you will see the most build up after the dropper has been serviced. Make sure to keep the wiper clean. Every 50 hours or so I loosen the collar, remove any old grease best I can by cycling the post, then apply fresh grease and close it up. This is done with the post on the bike, do not remove it. It should take a few minutes at most. At least once a year minimum, I remove the post off all my bikes and give them a full service, whether they need it or not. Once you get used to it, it's a very fast job. This has worked for me for years. As for the Reverb AXS, You will have to do a full service eventually. I plan on making a video on this! Stick to the above, and regular do the 200-hour service in this video, and I'm sure you will be in good shape!
Thank you very much for your advices ! I will do my best because this dropper is not to cheap and i like to have functional stuff. I will watch your videos because you do a very good job.
@@zoubtube, o realy need your advice. I have the post from few months. My older dropper post with cable receive from me, time to time, the next treatment : pressing the lever i push the dropper down. After this i loose the collar and after this i press the lever again and the collar goes fast up on the dropper same time with a white plastic gasket. Then i clean with a paper towel the old grease and put some thin layer of Sram butter between the lower side of the dropper and the collar and the white gasket who were up under the saddle. After this i screwed the collar and i acted several times the lever pushing down the dropper to grease all the surface pf the dropper. The axs should be receive the same tratement as my old cable dropper or in this case i should not push the lever to go down the seat post , to loose the collar and after this to push again the lever for the collar and the piece under to collar to goes up ? My old cable dropper post has under the collar that white gasket who rise up when i push the lever to rise up the dropper. The axs has such a gasket under the collar ? I'm asking you all this because i don't want to do something wrong. Thank you and i'm waiting your help please.
@@devourermastikator I think what you are asking is: With most dropper posts, when doing a 50-hour service, you loosen the collar, then lift it, then drop the post and pick it up again so the upper bushing comes out in order to clean the bushing and post. Then grease everything and close it all back up. Is this right? If the above is right, the AXS doesn’t have a removable upper bushing, as the bushing is part of the collar. Just loosen the collar and clean as much as you can. You can cycle the post a couple of times to see if old grease will come up, but there is no need to overdo it. After you clean everything, apply grease and close it all up. Make sure to torque down the collar to ~ 28 nm Let me know if the above answers your question
@@zoubtube , yes, that was my question. But i don't have a torque wrench for so high Nm. It's a must for this ? Thank you very much for your help ! I really appreciate !:)
Anyone got experience with these? Thinking if say I want to leave dropper at home and use a normal seatpost, would it remember link or when put on bike again do I have to link it up again?
Not sure If I fully understand the question. Are you asking if you remove an AXS dropper post from a bike, and then install it again at a later date, will the post still work with the remote?
@@zoubtube it was mainly as looking to disable front derailleur switching and use it to control dropper, I look to use enhanced shifting so shift front depend where am on back
@@mlee6050According to the documentation: "Additionally, it can be paired to your SRAM AXS shift lever, meaning one lever can control both shifting and your dropper" It looks like it can be done through the app. But I don't know anyone who has tried this.
Hi, have you ever heard of anyone mention a knocking/rattle noise from the axs seat post? Mine makes a rattling noise I can hear both while riding and in my MTB video's. I took the post out and seat off. When i tap on the side of the post it makes a knocking noise like something isn't tight inside. Possibly the pins?? Here is a video of me tapping on the side. ua-cam.com/video/WD0v_971uW8/v-deo.html. Here is a video of the noise while riding. It sounds like cable rattle but its not. ua-cam.com/video/wBYr5x_YUaE/v-deo.html
I'm pretty sure I hear the noise you mention. There not much in there that can come loose. Top of mind is to check if a chunk of the coating on the collar or inner bushing came off and is rattling inside. it's a relatively easy thing to check if you haven't done so already. At the same time you can also check your pins. let us know, I've never come across this, but then again, I don't know many people with these posts.
@@TrailtoTrailTomdo this, make sure to torque the collar back to 28nm when done. Ultimately, it makes more sense to open the post. You won't be able to see anything from the lower bushing by just opening up the collar, and if there is something wrong inside, you definitely want to fix it ASAP considering the cost of these posts.
@@TrailtoTrailTom That's your best but if it's that new. SRAM warranty replaced the post in the 200 hour service video I had posted, which showed a ton of unexpected wear. chances are they will replace it
Ive got a reverse suction thing going on that is not letting my post extend fully. Has anyone else had that happen? Ive tried the vent technique and while that does solve the squish issue, it still does not let my post fully extend. Thanks for the video!
I wish I have better news, but my experience is your going to need to open the post to solve the problem. Here is a link to a 600 hr service video that will guide you through the process, step by step. ua-cam.com/video/tZz3UY2xbrI/v-deo.html Also, don't try and vent the air while pulling on the post thinking it will get rid of the suck up. You will end up locking it the post in the fully close position, meaning it won't drop, by doing this.
@@zoubtubethanks for the heads up! Do you offer this as a service? I was going to send it in to a suspension service place but thought I'd check for you first .
@@brianwilson1145 I could, but honestly, I'm confident that you can do the job as well if you follow the video. The reverb AXS is a great dropper post, but it does require more service than the average dropper, imo. Anyone planning on keeping the dropper will greatly benefit from getting used to servicing it. If you don't have the tools, the initial purchase of the tools needed will most likely cost less than if you were to send it to rockshox for service. I guarantee you the dropper will need a full service every two or so years, not including the 50 and 200 hour servers, which I would absolutely stay on top of for reasons that can be seen in both AXS videos I posted. Let me know your thoughts, and we can take it from there. Contact me at zoubtube@hotmail.com (I'm so old-fashioned with the Hotmail addresses).
I would love to see the 600hrs service.
Great content by the way 👏🏼
I like how you explain everything step by step good job 👍🏼
I will Definitely be making a 600 hour service video for this post. I'm Looking forward to it! 👍
@@zoubtube looking forward to it 👍🏼
@@zoubtube AFAIK there are no 600h service kits available yet? At least I didn't find any ...
@@zoubtube is it same for xplr seatpost? One I am getting needs to be 27.2 for the frame
@@mlee6050 The service steps and tools needed between the AXS and XPLR AXS is different. I wouldn't use this guide video as a reference for the XPLR post there will be some significant differences between them. If I come across a XPLR AXS I'll make a service video for it
Concerning the grease, I didn't discover anything as you found in the dropper. Mine was just dirty. There was just a lot of mud in the collar on the back side. My dropper is 3 years old and used a lot in the mud.
That's good to hear. I'm really curious to see what the dropper I'm going to be doing a 600 hr service on looks like inside. I really hope it nothing like the one in the video.
I would definitely love to see the 600 hour service if your buddy is willing 🙂. Also the dropper post definitely needs to be inflated to 250 psi as the service manual indicates. Any less and it will not extend as fast as it's supposed to.
funny you ask this. I was going to open it again for a 600-hour service based off what I found in the 200 hour but decided to call rockshox first to ask about the non-matching pin (which threw me off) as I wanted to replace all of them. They said all the pins should match in a reverb and the one pin that was different was most likely a manufacturing miss. They asked for the dropper to be sent back to them. Their thinking the one pin that didn’t match is the reason for the excessive wear, which was super unexpected when I took it apart. I don’t currently have it and it seems like it will be replaced. I’ll try and find another one to make a 600 video. 👍
So seeing this service every 50 hours of use? Also any tip how to track time without digital gadgets
I'm now refuse to use dropper for a planned journey cycle 4802 miles in 20 or say days, 16 hours a day
just an fyi, I posted a 600 hr service video for the AXS a couple of weeks ago that might help you get the job done.
Great Video thank you.
Would you by chance know if the AXS silver collar is interchangeable with the black one on a normal reverb? I really don’t like the way the silver looks on my build.
Cheers Chris
Thanks for the comment. unfortunately I can't say for sure at the moment. You given me something to look into though. I'll let you know when I know for sure
I was wondering the same thing.
Thanks for the video, good tips. this will definitely help me out when I service my post. One thing I'd like to note. when torquing, you need to have the crowsfoot at 90 deg. to the head. anything else will either increase or decrease the amount of tq being applied, regardless of the the torque wrench says. Also thanks for showing the Air valve release, I never knew that. I'll keep that in mind if I ever get a squishy post.
One question though, is it normal for the post to extent a little when hung or picked up by the seat?
"when torquing, you need to have the crowsfoot at 90 deg. to the head. "
Yup! You're 100% right. And I am guilty of forgetting to do this way more often than not. (Just to think it's going to get worse as I get older) 😱
For anyone who happens to watch this video, please follow Chris' advice and make sure to angle a crows foot to 90 degrees when using it with a torque wrench, or else you will need to apply a formula in order to make up the difference. I will make sure to be a better example of doing this in future videos. 👍
"is it normal for the post to extent a little when hung or picked up by the seat"
Are you sure it's fully vented before resetting the post? it's a bit tricky to get the last bit of air out.
@ZoubTube I have had no issues with it yet, however, I should do a 50hr on it. Don't think I'm quite at 200 yet.
@@adrnln_jnke definitely stay on top of the 50 hours on this post (all posts really) its easy and it helps protect the post and you. You don't want to be in a position my buddy is in right now. SRAM has had the post in this video for about a month and the bike shop still can't get an update. Not cool!
Good video, but need to mention that a crows foot on a torque wrench needs to be 90 degrees to the handle. If it is straight, you are lengthening the lever arm applying additional torque that the wrench can't see.
"but need to mention that a crows foot on a torque wrench needs to be 90 degrees to the handle"
YUP! I tend to forget this one occasionally and thankfully there's people out there to point it out. I believe someone else mentioned this when it was first released, but feel free to mention any detail that might have been missed so I can either add it in the description section or ensure I don't make the same error in future videos. These videos are meant to help all of us have a better experience 👍
Great video, thank you!
My entire top section (where the battery attaches) is frying batteries. I have another unit but with a different internal seatpost diameter. Can I just swap bottom seat tube pieces to replace the defective top unit? Or is there a better solution here?
"My entire top section (where the battery attaches) is frying batteries" That's really odd. How old is the post. Something like this should be covered under warranty. Otherwise, yes, you should be able to swap it without issue, If I understand the ask correctly. But still, I'd try to warranty it if possible
Hello, is it possible to add sram butter under collar ? and for this is it possible to unscrew only collar ? if yes do I have to deflate the seatpost ? thank you
This is going to be my official answer based on my experience with these posts. These are great posts. BUT,,, they Absolutely need to be inspected VERY regularly. I would honestly not go more than 100 hours ( depending on use) without looking at the bushings inside them and applying new grease. The bushings have a coating on them that fails EASILY (I hope Rockshox sees this), and if they fail, they can damage the post. The only way to know if your bushings haven't failed yet (and they will fail) is to regularly look at them.
Do yourself a BIG favor. It's easy enough to remove the post, open it, inspect it and apply new grease. Do this regularly
Also, don't EVER use dynamic grease on bushings and pins. ONLY use SRAM butter or an equivalent.
Great videos! Any chance you'll do a non AXS Reverb from a few years ago? Or is it similiar to AXS other than wireless?
"Any chance you'll do a non AXS Reverb from a few years ago?" That's the plan. It's sort of similar, but it does have some differences that are significant. I can't say for sure when, as I'm only now slowly getting back into making the videos again, and still traveling a good amount of work, but I'll get one out. Thanks for the comment and for taking the time to watch it
So I bought mine second hand a little while ago, seemed very new at the time. Then noticed the dropper got sticky and needed a hand to come back up a week or so ago. So was getting ready to do a service and watched your video as a guide before starting. I only removed the collar a minute ago to add a little grease because I planned a ride this week and I need to wait for the parts to arrive later this week. you really got me a little panicked so didn’t want to wait with adding a bit of grease. When removing the collar I noticed some weird white muck on the treads, I’m assuming it’s some anti cease stuff? Any thoughts?
I would have to guess anti seize as well as it can be bought in white. The previous owner might have used it since there is a good amount of force to torque the collar. On a side note, my buddies post was warrantied by SRAM, then gave him a new one that showed up two weeks ago.
@@zoubtube thanks for the tip. Mine is still under warranty as well. If I find similar damage I’ll certainly rma it 👍🏻
Oh man, I have like 7000 miles on mine and have only vented it a few times.....hmmmm. Although I don't ride mud because of the clay soil here.
As long as the post isn't sagging, there really isn't a need to vent it. But one thing I would keep up with on these axs reverb's is the 50-hour service. The Teflon rings on these posts wear quick, and I'm convinced the dynamic grease rockshox uses doesn't help. If the Teflon rings wear, it can seriously damage the post, as is seen in one of my videos. If you don't actuate the posts much, then you can check it every 70 or 100 hours. But if you use it regularly, I would check it regularly
So, I bought secondhand axs 125mm a few months ago and only just now fitted it to use on my build ONLY to findout that it does not fully extended past 100-105mm by itself. I can pull it to up to 125mm but it compresses back down to the same 100-105mm. I have tried bleeding air out of it twice and it is still the same. So I am guessing my bargain axs was not the bargain after all AND I should of full checked it when I bought it beyond just testing it went down and up a few times and it hopefully just needs a service and nothing worse.
Really sorry to hear that Myman. Sucks that you had to experience it, but on the bright side, at least it can be fixed. You in the states?
@@zoubtube UK. The only way that I can could get it to fully extend is by constantly pushing down on the bleed screw 15-20ish times which would result in the post very slowly extending a few mm at a time, which I am guessing is not a good thing to do? Oddly enough after doing this quite a few times while still trying to bleed it, it will now will fully extend off the button/paddle BUT still drops about 10mm when pressing down on it and then back up 10mm again so it has got me completely frustated and really confused, which if I am honest doesn't take much these days. Haha.
@@IMac8939 damn! if you were in the US I was thinking send it to me so I can fix it (Gratis of course) and make a 600hr service video for everyone, which is sounds like it needs to fix it (my guess ifp seal seaps air) Now that the season is in full swing here I most likely won't be able to make a 600 hr service video on an axs until fall or unless one starts failing. Cost effective shipping from the UK takes time both ways and still has quite an expense (The world is worried about proper pronouns and I want is a portal wormhole! That would solve this quick, then I can walk through an ride sedona when I'm done 😁). My guess is it'll will cost less and take less time to get fixed there. when you get a moment try looking into it the options and let me know. 👍
@@zoubtube Thankyou. It is a shame I can not take you up on your kind offer. I so what rebiuld kit do you think I will need ? I did have a quick look online for 200hr service kits but some show 4 parts and yet others show 8 parts consisting of 2 of some of the same parts. Is the IFP inside the inner shaft/sealed section ?
@@IMac8939 "It is a shame I can not take you up on your kind offer" Agreed, its a small world but not that small yet
The 600 hour kit is the following:
Part number 11.6818.051.001
www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/rockshox-reverb-axs-600-hour-2-year-dropper-seatpost-service-kit-with-ifp-requires-oil-height-and-ifp-depth-tools
(no affiliation)
You will also need oil: SS-OIL-RVB-A1
I will say that availability can be challenging . I know my local bike shop had them a few weeks ago. Not sure if they still do today (probably should have bought a kit to have handy). The 600 hour is more involved than the 200 hour in this video. You will end up dismantling the entire dropper. I do plan on making a video on this but need to wait for a dropper that needs the service.
Hi. lots of oil has leaked out of my air valve after I changed the air pressure for the 1st time and now the seat will not rise to full height. It works but I've lost about 3 inches of rise due to so much oil coming out of air valve. Could I send you my seatpost for a full 600 hour service?
Sure, not sure how to set this up though. FYI though, it will have to be quick unless your not in a rush. starting on the 9th im going to be traveling pretty much all of june for work ☹
@@zoubtube I left a way to reach me in the description of my channel. I’m Rob.
@@OffRoadCycling just sent an email 👍
Any chance soap/detergent got inside when your buddy was cleaning the bike and broke down the grease? I mostly use just water to clean my bike and would say it has prolonged the life of many greased parts - suspension, pivots, headset/BB, etc...
I'd have to say the chances are extremely slim, for 2 reasons. 1: He doesn't wash his bikes very often, and I mean rarely. when ever he does he makes a point out of it as I keep bugging him about it. 2: The only time I've seen him wash one of his bikes it was a simple spray down. riding in the rain would've done more. I put out another video where I worked his ibis linkages. The only reason it looked clean is because of me. It's like he says, " I need to bring my bike here more often so it can get cleaned" 😁
The Post is currently with rockshox. I called them about the pin that didn't match and they are thinking it was a manufacturing error. "All pins should match on reverb post" is what they told me. that was the first time the post was opened. it'll be interesting to see how it goes.
@@zoubtube Interesting... I wonder what they would have to say about the grease becoming clay? What do you think about using Sram butter or Slick Honey instead?
@@jawzzy3 Funny you ask about sram butter. When I mentioned how the paste completely dried out, the sram tech’s immediate response was literally "that's why I use butter instead". Unofficially he made it clear to me that for him, butter is a much better option. I’ve never had an issue with sram butter/slick honey etc for forks, shocks, and droppers. Next time I service a reverb AXS, I’m using butter!
My personal thoughts on what happened. Chances are the tech is right in that the wrong pin was installed during manufacturing. Apparently, this happens occasionally. The only difference in the pins is the diameter. Manufacturing the post has a limit in tolerances, so each post gets measured and then match with the proper sizes pins to meet specs. My guess is the post was essentially imbalanced by the one pin, which might have created more than typical friction, which significantly wore out the one side at a quick rate. The debris mix in with the grease and turned into the mess we see in the video.
Again, this is just a guess though. I could be way off! 😉
@@zoubtube cool, think I’ll use the butter as well. Cannot imagine that stuff turning into clay 😂
@@zoubtube I glad I saw this, i didn't want to have to buy any other type of grease as I already have slick honey, which seams to be better anyways.
I think you forgot this?
Activate 'Service Mode': Press and release the AXS button on the seatpost once to set the seatpost to 'Service Mode'. In 'Service Mode' the internal valve is open and the seatpost will compress by hand.
I could be wrong, but I don't think this really applies to the 200 hour service. we're not setting up the internals in the 200 service, it's basically just a lube job. And as can be seen in the video, I used the service button to reset the post height after removing the sag prior to starting the 200 hour service, which is good practice. I believe the service button is needed for removing the sag, and for the 600 hour service in order to keep the valve open for the bleed
@@zoubtube Probably. The service manual doesn't specify why, it just states that the valve should be open before opening the seatpost, but then again, they mix 50/200/600h service in the same document and you might be right.
@@irfuel I'm pretty sure its not an issue. The post worked perfectly after the 200 hour. The valve isn't activate for this service. SRAM did replace the post though. turn out the wear I found in it was a factory error. One of the pins was the wrong size, which applied unequal pressure and wore out one side. Surprising how quick it wore it down.
As for 600h service kit. You can get them from your local bike shop, 11.6818.051.001 they can get them. $85 though, expensive imo, but then again what isn't these days with bikes
What about all the oil you let out
Not sure what you mean. I only did the 200 service in this video which doesn't require an oil change. the 600 hour service replaces the oil. I will be making a 600 service video
@@zoubtube he is refering to the oil that was let out when you released the air from the schrader valve.
@@adrnln_jnkeGood observation. I didn't think about that. that's just oil mist that comes out with the air when releasing the air. it's not a significantly amount of oil in any way. when releasing air from shocks, forks, droppers etc, contaminated micro particles will come out with the air. it not good to breath them in at all. Covering the valve with any cloth or towel prior to releasing the air is a good practice as it will block those particles.
That was much more than mist.
Thanks for stating the obvious lol.
I just did my dropper using this video. It was extremely helpful! Just some things I did differently:
I did not remove the seat. I clamped the dropper on the bolts that hold the seat in a Workmate, not in a vise, so no need to stress about the seat being positioned correctly when reassembling.
I removed the foam ring from the collar with a plastic pick, cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol and drenched it in Rockshox 0W30 suspension oil. I just did the same thing you do with that thing as you would on a lower leg service. So I did not pack the foam ring with grease (it isn't greased from the factory, but oily), I only put the grease on/in the rubber ring above it.
My dropper has approx 220 hours on it, and it became really hard to push down. After this service it's working as it should again.
Thanks for the video!
Awesome feedback! It's Greatly appreciated as it should help others. I'll be posting a 600 hour service soon, probably beginning of july if all goes well. 👍
@@zoubtube Are the kits available? AFAIK those 600h service kits are nowhere to be found?
@@irfuel They are very hard to come by. I ordered one from a shop that had it in stock. its supposed to deliver on monday. I asked the shop to verify that its the right part number kit, which they did, but we'll see when it gets here. crossing fingers on this one! 🙏 What really sucked was my LBS had them in stock in april and didn''t buy any of the kits figuring that I get them when I needed them. lesson learned!
Bro, great content! keep with the great job! you deserve more subs! you got mine
Thank you very much for the compliment myman! still have lots to improve but working on it. More videos to come
Just had my Fox factory Transfer serviced needed a new shaft as coating had worn off just where yours had but worse very expensive and my old reverb was the same but not AXS type. It's winter that destroys dropper posts and even on the trail if I stop I would give it a wipe. A mud guard stops a lot of the wet slim hitting the seal head but it will get through. The pins always need replaced and I use slick honey than sram butter as it dries out.
WOW! even worse than the post in the video. that a ton of wear. the post in the video did have a factory defect. the pins should have been the same and they weren't. Rockshox did end up replacing it. Though my buddy rides year round he uses his fatlike for winter riding. the post in the video was on his trail bike, which he stores in the winter. not sure how many muddy days it's seen but its a great observation and I will make sure to let him know. thanks for the info. 👍
Great video mate, thanks!
Thanks for making this Video. I was looking for a long time for this video. Eventually I gave up and downloaded the official SRAM manual, bought all the required tools and did the 200hr service. Couple of questions:
1. You know that the venting tool also used to unscrew the valve cup right?
2. By the end of the video you are doing venting procedure but this time you use the remote in order to open the the dropper after compression, does it matter? I the beginning you did it with the service button on the dropper itself.
3. Do you know what to do if the venting procedure doesn't solve the squishing problem? Do you thing 600 hr's rebuild will fix it?
4. Did you check with SRAM that nasty corrosion that you have discovered ?
1. You know that the venting tool also used to unscrew the valve cup right?
Not only did I not know that, it never even crossed my mind. Thanks for the insight myman! So much information to retain these days, so little brain cells. Help is always appreciated! 👍
2. By the end of the video you are doing venting procedure but this time you use the remote in order to open the the dropper after compression, does it matter? I the beginning, you did it with the service button on the dropper itself.
- I used the remote to verify that the whole system worked. Either way works though
3. Do you know what to do if the venting procedure doesn't solve the squishing problem? Do you thing 600 hr's rebuild will fix it?
- My guess (assuming everything else is good) An IFP seal is going bad and air and oil are starting to mix. I'm sure the 600 hour will take care of this.
I actually regret not recording the 600 hour service. My buddy didn't feel like spending the extra money considering how new the post way. I should have just bought the kit and done it. I'll definitely will be making a video on it. Now, I know two people who have this post. They're going to need a full service eventually! 👍
4. Did you check with SRAM that nasty corrosion that you have discovered ?
- Actually, SRAM still has the post. The latest update was last Thursday, and they're still looking into it. Taking longer that I thought it would
Hi again ! I use now the new dropper. The online bike shop send me a new one in exchange of the old one who has a big sag just after few months. Now the new dropper has a little sag like 3mm. It's worth it to do the valve procedure or it's better to leave it like that ? On the old dropper the valve procedure was a big fail and from a little sag i get a big sag. Also please tell me what service rebuild it must be done for get rid of this sag ? 200 or 600 hrs ? I have the new dropper for almost 100 hrs . Maybe i get again a sag because i am a heavy guy and i use a lot this dropper pushing up and down all the time ? What do you think ? Also on the front on the dropper bar, when i go up some golden lines from the inside appear time to time ? Maybe is the grease applied by me who came out time to time ? I don't understand why this expensive dropper has sag time to time. Sram can't do a free sag dropper ? My first cable dropper doesn't do this but i brake the cable 4 times and is a shity situation to remain up with your dropper. I 'm waiting your help, please ! Thank you very much !
I'm sorry to hear you're having issues with these posts. They are great posts, but unfortunately, they are prone to sag. Before attempting any service, always start with the venting tool, as I explain in this video starting at 8:34. If this doesn't take care of the sag, then you're going to have to bleed the post, which is part of the 600-hour service. The 200-hour service will not help with this. You most likely won't have to change the seals if you have less than 100 hours on the post, but you will have to open the post, remove the oil and IFP, fill with oil, set the ifp and close the post back up. It's actually not a hard job. After you do it once, you will easily be able to do it again. Hopefully this helps
@@zoubtube , thank you for your help ! The actual sag is very little, like 3mm or smth. Sram said in the manual of the seatpost that is normal to have 5mm sag. If it's bigger they recommend to proceed for valve procedure. In this situation what do you think ? For me is not normal that a seatpost to have sag, it's weird that they said that. It's not at all a cheap dropper post. What is the max pressure do i need to pump in the dropper ? Because i am a big guy and i need that my dropper to rise up fast :)))
Question...if my post is making a clicking sound when i twist the seat back and forth, is that indicating the collar and/or pins are likely bad? I thought one of my suspension links might have heen the culprit, but no its the seat for sure. Its really annoying because its constantly clicking when im pedaling on rough terrain.
When you say "twisting the seat back and forth" do you mean rotating left to right, or do you mean pushing front to back. If rotating left to right, then there's a good change that the pins are starting to wear. If back and forth, then I'm pretty sure the sure you're bushing are either wearing, worn, or with this post, the lower bushing might have delaminated, which is something I've been trying to warn people on. Though I haven't worked on hundreds of these post, I've worked on enough to notice the coating on the lower bushing delaminates very inconsistently, sometimes it last a long time, other times it doesn't make it to 100 hours.
@zoubtube it might be both haha. I'm going to tear this thing apart soon and hopefully it'll be salvageable. Just getting the proper tools together so that I'm fully prepared. Thanks for the video and for the reply
@zoubtube pretty annoying too that you can't figure out which size pins go with the particular reverb unless you tear it down. Called sram with the serial number thinking they could tell me the pin size so I could order them in advance, but nope
@@thereignofthezero225 I TOTALLY agree! It's a PITA and I wish SRAM could be more helpful with this. At least it doesn't change over time, so once you open it, you'll know for good!
@@thereignofthezero225 instead of wrenches, I would put the money into either an adjustable crows foot, or individual crows feet, since they can be used for both removing and installing to torque specs
Amazing video. Does the silver collar sold in a different color, say black?
I believe so. I know there are black caps for the regular reverb. Looking on google I see black top caps that look identical to the AXS version, but cant; say for sure if its compatible
@@zoubtubehave seen axs with black collar mounted
That is very helpful, THX a lot! :D My post was mega-dirty on the inside. Even the stantion got scratched by the grid. Be on top of your service intervals, people.
Subbed for more ^^
Oh, would you have a link or recommendation for the crowfoots used? I live in Germany and cannot find any online.
thx again! Cheers
Glad to hear you found the video helpful. I also recently posted a 600 hour video that might help in the future. Your absolutely right with keeping up with intervals. They are great posts, and super practical, but considering the expense, I would definitely regularly check them every 50 hours or so to make sure the innards are ok
As for crow feet. I've bought some on amazon, others at harbor freight. the ones on amazon you can by individually. or you can buy a package set, which will save you some money, and then buy the missing sizes individually
Large sizes
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SI7FMI2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Typical sizes
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08QV3PQVK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Group sets
www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-3-8-eighth-inch-crowfoot-metric-wrench-set-94427.html
www.amazon.com/RamPro-Drive-Crowfoot-Wrench-Standard/dp/B071Z253MH/ref=asc_df_B0719BLYH3/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309813767497&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5843056846311596839&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9016979&hvtargid=pla-568081655239&th=1
www.amazon.com/s?k=crowfoot&i=tools&crid=3ELW0LYHVL6YT&sprefix=crowfoot%2Ctools%2C95&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
WOW! Great! Thanks a lot for the links! :D I'll watch your 600h for sure. I just ordered the pins, as my post hat a lot of play from side to side and back and forth 😕
C ya, cheers!
This video is amazing. Thank you so much. One thing I never see addressed is how the main head assembly attaches to the IFP tube. Can you talk about how that's attached and if it's possible to tighten it when play is present? Thanks again!
glad to hear the video was informational for you. when you say head assembly to the IFP tube, are you talking about the actual tube that holds the IFP on the inside? I have a 600 hour service video for this dropper that explains this. the tube literally snaps into the base of the head
Btw, if you do the 200 hour service for this dropper, don't use dynamic grease. the stuff sucks for the outer dropper tubes. I literally just finished servicing an AXS 3 hours ago, and yet again, the dynamic grease dehydrated into a clay type paste, which ended up damaging the bushings and tubes. rockshox need to revise their service docs on this one
@@zoubtube Thanks for getting back to me. Sorry, I don't know the exact names for things. When I say "head assembly" I'm talking about the piece with the saddle clamp and battery housing. When looking at it, it just looks like it's a press fit with the outer tube. I've looked at dozens of exploded diagrams of the Reverb and not one has showed that top unit being separate from the tube. I ask because I just got my first ever dropper post (I've been a very stubborn holdout) which is the Reverb AXS. And after only 4 rides, it developed a little play in that top piece and the connected tube. A mechanic friend assured me that a little play is normal and it happens with all droppers. My question is why? So I just want to understand how those two pieces are joined and if anything can be done to remove the play. Also, why is that even acceptable? Thanks again for the great info.
I noticed the nut at bottom off mine is loose should I torque it up
Yes! Don't leave any nuts loose, and make sure you don't overtighten them. Most nuts on this dropper are made with soft metals, which can strip easily. Also, I've worked on a good amount of these over time, and as much as I like these posts, I highly recommend checking them more often than not. I wouldn't go over 100 hours without checking the bushings and applying fresh grease. It's quick and easy enough to do and can save you a potential headache.
Yesterday my axs was instaled by myself on my aluminium frame ebike. Big thumb up for your video ! Good advices and good explanations ! Thank you very much for your effort ! When i installed this droper i whiped out the old grease from the seat tube and use a little seat green grease from Zefal inside the seat tube. I had to use friction paste or a seat grease on the whole droper tube who is catch in the seat tube ? Sram specify in the item brochure DO NOT use grease. What shoul i do ? Also i don't know how to mantain this droper. My old cable droper was whiped out from grease and dust with wet paper and dry paper towels after every ride. This one need same procedure ? And from time to time, when the droper was not so smooth, I unscrewed the large nut, operated the dropper from the remote lever, the white gasket popped up, wiped off the grease and dirt, applied new Sram butter and screwed back the large nut back in place. At Reverb axs, what do I have to do from time to time? Please give me some advice because I don't want to do something wrong. I can tell you that my droper don't see water or mud. Thank you in advance from your answer and please help me with some advices !
"Sram specify in the item brochure DO NOT use grease. What should I do ?"
This is a debated topic. I "just about" always use a thin layer of grease, whether it is metal on metal or metal on carbon. On carbon frames, I always seem to use carbon pastes because every carbon frame I've owned (or come across) seems to have a loose fit when installing a seat post/dropper. So instead of over torquing a seat collar, I use the carbon paste to fill the extra space in the seat tube. If the seat post fit is tight in a carbon frame, then you basically don't need to grease/paste. Service the post annually and you will be good
WARNING! There is a possibility that a metal post in a carbon frame CAN seize, even with carbon paste. I came across this last fall with a friend's bike. We ended up having to use a large pipe wrench with a lot of force to remove the dropper. The dropper housing had a good amount of corrosion at the top part of the seat tube. It was a fat bike that gets ridden in the winter. Our guess is the salty road conditions caused this over time. If he regularly maintained his bike, this most likely wouldn't have happened
"Also, I don't know how to mantain this droper"
If I see dirt build up around the wiper, I remove it. Typically, you will see the most build up after the dropper has been serviced. Make sure to keep the wiper clean. Every 50 hours or so I loosen the collar, remove any old grease best I can by cycling the post, then apply fresh grease and close it up. This is done with the post on the bike, do not remove it. It should take a few minutes at most. At least once a year minimum, I remove the post off all my bikes and give them a full service, whether they need it or not. Once you get used to it, it's a very fast job. This has worked for me for years. As for the Reverb AXS, You will have to do a full service eventually. I plan on making a video on this! Stick to the above, and regular do the 200-hour service in this video, and I'm sure you will be in good shape!
Thank you very much for your advices ! I will do my best because this dropper is not to cheap and i like to have functional stuff. I will watch your videos because you do a very good job.
@@zoubtube, o realy need your advice. I have the post from few months. My older dropper post with cable receive from me, time to time, the next treatment : pressing the lever i push the dropper down. After this i loose the collar and after this i press the lever again and the collar goes fast up on the dropper same time with a white plastic gasket. Then i clean with a paper towel the old grease and put some thin layer of Sram butter between the lower side of the dropper and the collar and the white gasket who were up under the saddle. After this i screwed the collar and i acted several times the lever pushing down the dropper to grease all the surface pf the dropper. The axs should be receive the same tratement as my old cable dropper or in this case i should not push the lever to go down the seat post , to loose the collar and after this to push again the lever for the collar and the piece under to collar to goes up ? My old cable dropper post has under the collar that white gasket who rise up when i push the lever to rise up the dropper. The axs has such a gasket under the collar ? I'm asking you all this because i don't want to do something wrong. Thank you and i'm waiting your help please.
@@devourermastikator I think what you are asking is:
With most dropper posts, when doing a 50-hour service, you loosen the collar, then lift it, then drop the post and pick it up again so the upper bushing comes out in order to clean the bushing and post. Then grease everything and close it all back up. Is this right?
If the above is right, the AXS doesn’t have a removable upper bushing, as the bushing is part of the collar. Just loosen the collar and clean as much as you can. You can cycle the post a couple of times to see if old grease will come up, but there is no need to overdo it. After you clean everything, apply grease and close it all up. Make sure to torque down the collar to ~ 28 nm
Let me know if the above answers your question
@@zoubtube , yes, that was my question. But i don't have a torque wrench for so high Nm. It's a must for this ? Thank you very much for your help ! I really appreciate !:)
Thanks😊
Anytime. let me know if there are any questions
Anyone got experience with these? Thinking if say I want to leave dropper at home and use a normal seatpost, would it remember link or when put on bike again do I have to link it up again?
Not sure If I fully understand the question. Are you asking if you remove an AXS dropper post from a bike, and then install it again at a later date, will the post still work with the remote?
@@zoubtube yes if work right away or have to press the buttons to relink all up
@@mlee6050 yes, it should work right away, if it doesn't, then connecting the remote to the dropper to work is very fast and easy
@@zoubtube it was mainly as looking to disable front derailleur switching and use it to control dropper, I look to use enhanced shifting so shift front depend where am on back
@@mlee6050According to the documentation:
"Additionally, it can be paired to your SRAM AXS shift lever, meaning one lever can control both shifting and your dropper"
It looks like it can be done through the app. But I don't know anyone who has tried this.
anybody knows, what thread size the baseplate nut is? thanks
Unfortunately, I don't know the thread size. I'll look into it the next time I service a post.
Hi, have you ever heard of anyone mention a knocking/rattle noise from the axs seat post? Mine makes a rattling noise I can hear both while riding and in my MTB video's. I took the post out and seat off. When i tap on the side of the post it makes a knocking noise like something isn't tight inside. Possibly the pins?? Here is a video of me tapping on the side. ua-cam.com/video/WD0v_971uW8/v-deo.html. Here is a video of the noise while riding. It sounds like cable rattle but its not. ua-cam.com/video/wBYr5x_YUaE/v-deo.html
I'm pretty sure I hear the noise you mention. There not much in there that can come loose. Top of mind is to check if a chunk of the coating on the collar or inner bushing came off and is rattling inside. it's a relatively easy thing to check if you haven't done so already. At the same time you can also check your pins. let us know, I've never come across this, but then again, I don't know many people with these posts.
@@zoubtube so I can just unscrew the silver collar?? To look for a loose piece?
@@TrailtoTrailTomdo this, make sure to torque the collar back to 28nm when done. Ultimately, it makes more sense to open the post. You won't be able to see anything from the lower bushing by just opening up the collar, and if there is something wrong inside, you definitely want to fix it ASAP considering the cost of these posts.
@@zoubtube ok I'm planning to take it to a shop to be assessed and go for warranty. I only bought it in January.
@@TrailtoTrailTom That's your best but if it's that new. SRAM warranty replaced the post in the 200 hour service video I had posted, which showed a ton of unexpected wear. chances are they will replace it
Saved the day for me, thank you, man.
Awesome to hear this, and I'm super glad to hear it worked out for you. Let em know if you have any questions, thanks
Ive got a reverse suction thing going on that is not letting my post extend fully. Has anyone else had that happen? Ive tried the vent technique and while that does solve the squish issue, it still does not let my post fully extend. Thanks for the video!
I wish I have better news, but my experience is your going to need to open the post to solve the problem. Here is a link to a 600 hr service video that will guide you through the process, step by step.
ua-cam.com/video/tZz3UY2xbrI/v-deo.html
Also, don't try and vent the air while pulling on the post thinking it will get rid of the suck up. You will end up locking it the post in the fully close position, meaning it won't drop, by doing this.
@@zoubtubethanks for the heads up! Do you offer this as a service? I was going to send it in to a suspension service place but thought I'd check for you first .
@@brianwilson1145 I could, but honestly, I'm confident that you can do the job as well if you follow the video. The reverb AXS is a great dropper post, but it does require more service than the average dropper, imo. Anyone planning on keeping the dropper will greatly benefit from getting used to servicing it. If you don't have the tools, the initial purchase of the tools needed will most likely cost less than if you were to send it to rockshox for service. I guarantee you the dropper will need a full service every two or so years, not including the 50 and 200 hour servers, which I would absolutely stay on top of for reasons that can be seen in both AXS videos I posted.
Let me know your thoughts, and we can take it from there. Contact me at zoubtube@hotmail.com (I'm so old-fashioned with the Hotmail addresses).
@@zoubtube just emailed you 👍