Your sword came out extremely sharp and people still criticize your method. You you obviously made your method and people don't like to be wrong. Good for you man.
For starters, this is a video on HOW to SHARPEN a katana with HOUSEHOLD ITEMS, not traditional japanese whetstones carved from the ass of the sacred gorund of Mt. Fujji. Hey man, I can't believe so many people full of shit on the comments. The fact that they fantasize katanas shows they are full of BS. I can tell you have had a lot of practice. That cut at the end was quite impressive. And know your way around mantaining a sword with the tools at hand, which is very important knowledge. I love how people tell you what you should do or not do with your katana, as if it were a legendary Tokugawa heirloom passed down by generations of samurai. A katana, is a sword. a piece of steel. It is a tool. And if people cant get around the idea that a katana is just a tool, then they shouldn't be wielding one. Nice video man, keep it up
Ironically enough, the reason I watched this video is because someone gave me a Wakizashi about 3 and a half years ago. Before this I only owed a "traditional" looking Ninja To that I purchased for 190.00, 25 years ago (turned out to be a wall mount sword). Before that; only a boken. I wrapped the boken handle with cord to give it a realistic feel. Well, two days ago I decided to refurbish the scabbard to the Wakazishi gift I was given a few years ago. It was worn; duct tape held on a shoe lace attached to a broken off wooden cord mount still hanging on due to the shoe lace. Duct tape alsp held on the metal blade guard on the open end of the scabbard. I did not want the aged look of tradition. I wanted duabilty and function implementing modern, light wieght components. I stripped off the duct tape taking what was left of the sheen with it. I stripped off end cap cover as well. I sanded by hand course to ultra fine. I built a paint booth by sweeping, mopping and dusting my ultily room. I then laid out a sheet and set up a mount to hold my scabbard from what I could find in my garage (propane hand held torch with stem). I simply placed the torch under the sheet and cut a 1/4 inch hole for the stem to come through, the slid the scabbard down over the stem where the sword enters in. Before painting the scabbard with corosion proof all weather primer mixed with matt black paint, I drilled two holes in the scabbard to mount an aluminium rope loop above the traditional wooded mount and I mounted this piece running vertical, not horizontal. This is my mount for pack carry. I have cargo loops on the side of my tactical pack that perfectly hold my scabbard on the right side of my pack. I used sex bolts to attach rope loop rather than tiny wood screws that can be jerked out of the wood. I also reattached original cord mount with Gorilla brand super glue. Before I mounted the aluminium rope loop, I painted; 4 coats in 6 hours for ample dry time between coats, dusting the scabbard with paint one layer at a time. I sanded and painted the metal blade guard, used two complete rotatians of electrical tape to compensate for loosness under the metal guard, dotted the inside of the guard with super glue and worked it all the way onto the scabbard; tight enough for tight fit, without tearing into tape on the way down. The end product was so pristine, that it made the furniature covering the tang to look subpar to the scabbard; scabbard looked like a Batman weapon and the handle and tsuba looked like they belonged in something much older or simple looking. The tsuba had been rubbed clean of original finnish and was dusted with tiny rust particals and tarnished. So... I chose to venture into the unknown and break it down and make it new to match the scabbard. Wow!!! Turns out I had been given an exceptional sword; easily a 5 or 6 hundred dollar Wakizashi, battle born, full tang, everything very snug and fit (I am not an expert in handling these sword, nor have I ever worked on them or refurbished one until two days ago, but I have read a good deal of information on them and formed my own opinion as to what makes this weapon/tool/piece of art/object of deep thought and stimuli for inspiration/an extention of one's own being (soul)... Valuable; able to have value; I epressed that in my refurbishing project). I sanded everything to perfection and then painted with love. This sword looks brand new, ready and custom without traditional flare; looks and feels very solid, tactical. Now... I I move on to learning different sharpening meathods. I do have a long sharpening stone that my grandfather left beind. I am thinking I can use the techniques he taught me with 10 and 12 inch knives (his knives were immaculate and scary sharp) and apply that to the Wakazishi. I'm going to watch any videos I can first to pick the brains of those with experience, then proceed with disarmament. So far, I have not seen anyone doing what Grandpa did (I only just started watching these though) in that Grandpa approached the sharpening process like a prayer, or deep meditation. The process was expected to take awhile; might even be broken up over a few sessions, no hurry. To hurry was not the point, we had utility knives on standby for immediate needs. The other knives though; they were special, if only to us; I see that in the Wakizashi. At the end of the day it is a tool forged from elements of creation, what one puts into preserving what has been created speaks truth on all levels. Thank you for you video!
Katanas are weapons and they're not indestructible. Keep in mind samurai always carried two swords. As beautiful as they are they're not as amazing as the legends make them out to be.
You know, I've owned swords and have been training with them for YEARS AND YEARS, and I have never ONCE thought about using sandpaper and just wetting it like you'd do with a whetstone. That's actually fucking brilliant dude. It's so much cheaper to buy sandpaper and it has the same effect once you wet it with some water. This is a really smart way to sharpen cheaply, especially if it's just a sword that you practice with and not a seriously high end one. And it's super cool how sharp you got it! This video just blew my mind man, great job. 👍🏼
Word I came here wondering if it was possible to sharpen $50 katanas and I think I found my answer. I don’t have the fancy work bench he has but I should be able to rig something up!
It's not brilliant by far. It is common sense. You can put an edge on just about anything with anything If you understand aggregate properties. In material composition
Before everyone critizises... This is an OK video. If you really own a real high quality katana, than you invest in some real wet stones of high granulation. I saw you using only granulation 360... Well I start sharpening my katanas with wetstone 1000 granulation. And than finish with 6000. My katanas are so sharp I can cut with my imagination. But if you use your katanas for show or just to work a certain period of time, than your technique is equaly good. And its a similar technique. So, good job
1000/2000 (N. A./Japan) is for a finishing edge/honing only. If there are nicks and chips, start lower and finish at 1000. Over `1000 is polishing grit only.
Really impressive cutting and no doubting the sharpness. I wish you went into more detail about the angle of sharpening and how you properly work around the curved feature of the blade to sharpen it equally throughout.
Oh god, ever since I had an accident at work involving a box cutter, watching videos of people cutting through objects like its nothing sends a shiver up my spine.
All the top comments are talking about people who are mad that he didn't use authentic japanese stones and tools and stuff wich makes it a poor method because it doesn't look legit? Maybe... But then again I'm just a dude with a cool long knife that can't cut paper very well anymore. I dont live near a real authentic Togishi But I do live near a real authentic Hardware store. So I'm probably gonna try this first. Thanks for the knowledge, king👍
I ran across this video last week and thought I would give it a go. It was the first time I've ever attempted to sharpen a katana, so I used one of the ones I bought as a wall hanger. Since I don't have this young man's experience, I used painters tape to protect the blade and only left the cutting edge exposed. Even though it was a cheap 1045 Musha, this method put a decent cutting edge on the blade in no time at all. I was so impressed that I went on to put a fine cutting edge on the 1075 Marbles machete I use for camping. After that I took down a stainless steel European wall hanger and put a sharp edge on that in just a few minutes. WOW! This is a fast, easy, and very effective method for putting a keen edge on just about any long blade! I'm so glad I found this video! Now I just need to keep practicing this until I have the confidence to try this on better steel... Thank you so much for the upload!
Yeah but that requires a properly fitted tsuka. Should fit the tang like a glove. But usually only really high end swords are like this. Your common Chinese made production blade won't likely be like that so it takes more effort
you know i used to wander why guys like matt easton and skallagrim ragged on katana nerds so much, i myself am a fan of the blade, but i'm looking at these comments and it's hilarious considering matt did a vid on polishing an antique sword with a drill buffer and some polish compound lol
@@LucianoSilvaOficial definitely, and i mean i get WHY it's so popular, anime and japanese videogames and even japanese misticism, which WAS in fact mysterious up until just the recent era around the 2000s made the sword VERY appealing to americans and westerners, at a time when medieval fantasy was looking the same in every movie you had the japanese, who could write several differents types of fantasy from japanese hisotrical or non historical fiction to something between it and chinese to something like final fantasy where japanese things pop up from time to time, when the japanese make fantasy they incorporate several different cultures half the time from western, asian, to middle eastern, to the point where theirs more variety their than in the west, and only recently has western fantasy and medieval movies and such gotten better like game of thrones, outlaw king, etc, so it's no surprise that the katana has so much support when it's gotten much more screen time and positive enforcement than other legendary blades, not t mention again, the secret ism of how they did their stuff and such for the longest time and their adherence to traditionalism, while i respect it, has done what kung fu did and gave a false sense of "the old ways are the best ways" which is common for humans to believe since we cling to the familiar and ten d to shrink away from things that aren't familiar, like industrialism, i admit when i see a sword smith polish a blade with a belt sander, i get aggravated, mostly cuz i don't have that tool, i have to sand my sword down by hand and their are still places i can't get out of some of my swords because they require grinding to remove such as deep yet smooth to the touch pitting, etc, so theirs a hint of jealousy at new types of doing things cuz their not as readily available or affordable so people tend to get upset, not to mention most humans have a habit of sticking to traditionalism, out of respect and a sense of wanting something spiritual to make sense of the world and forging a katana for the japanese is just as much religious as it is work, so yeah you get people who think the thousand time forged sword is the strongest thing in the world, but i will say, using whetstones can actually have a slightly different effect, but i'm not sure if they hurt the hamon of a katana or not, sorry for being so long winded
not bad. It looks like a good and feasible method to sharpen the edge of Japanese steel. Though the traditional way takes far farrrr longer. So good method Luciano
@@pogchamp9786 The traditional method includes using all the way up to 10000 grit white malachite Japanese whetstones by hand for hours in extreme focus. Not to me the stupid price of the stones
i was in a dojo for 4 years and ever since I wanted a katana now I’m 26 and I just got 3 rare ones and I’m ready to sharpen them in case i was invaded by some ninja at night . Thanks ✌🏾
People think that using whetstone is necessary, but afterall katana is just a steel, dosent matter if it is normal steel, tungsten or tamahagane, and only japanese swordsmiths can sharp katana with the whetstone and call it official, if anyone else does it... It's just a way to sharp and it's not official.. Its a rule of Japan that, only japanese swordsmiths can do things to katana and call it real.. so as we are not japanese swordsmiths, it's ok to work with whatever we love. Good job and thanks for the video and way of the sharpening👍
It works! I sharpened my Katana (1060 steel, clay hamon) with sandpaper, too. It is now very sharp. When I do the cutting test with paper, it cuts even bettert than he did in the video. But I started with 400 grains.
This is pretty much how I sharpened my dads wall hanger and it proved a serviceable cutter since the steel was as soft as my morning shit I was able to go straight to 400, only thing I would do differently is to remove the paper that isn't held by the clamps as the looseness of it would cause it to sort of wrap around the edge and start of the bevel and round them off which over time would reduce its cutting performance and put somewhat of a convex secondary bevel on it aswell as overpolish the flat or bo-hi, I plan to do this to the ryujin sword katana I purchased recently when it arrives as one review suggested the sharpness could be better
This video helped me. I have a 3 in by half an in stone and was trying to do this with the stone locked in place and my blade in my hands but you made me realize I can lock my blade in place and use my stone more effectively.
The fact that you easily cut through the hardest part of the plastic(where lid screws on) shows how well it was sharpened. But I can't bring myself to use sandpaper. I'll be buying a whetstone for my Katana too much money to be scratching the finish.
You know I was polishing a blade I had one day with some 2000 grit sandpaper, I had the idea of wondering why somebody just doesn't take a block of wood and wrap the sandpaper around it and make a sharpener that way it seems like it would be much easier to replace and possibly more cost effective.. I had not thought of the idea in a while and then I came across this!!! Thank you so much you kind of put a few pieces together that will probably help me to do this as well I think it's a very good idea you could probably even make a more refined version of it that is portable.
Wow, that is really sharp! Well done! Buddy of mine might be getting a few Katanas soon, said he would like to give me one. I'm definitely gonna use your method if it works out, thanks.
Wow. This comment section is full of weeaboos who think they know more about katanas than you, just because they watched anime. LOL A weeaboo can never get his hands on a real katana. However, a person who actually knows things and can separate fact from fiction, CAN get a real katana.
Luciano Silva Also, you forgot that they pretty much contradict themselves by saying the katana can cut anything. Then why do katana fail to cut open the scabbard when you sheath/unsheath it? XD
Low-Class Saiyan I'm talking about those who say it's a disrespectful way to disassemble a katana because they are "holy sacred divine artifacts" or whatever.
Low-Class Saiyan Actually, whetstone is for sharpening and polishing. The disassemble happens by removing the bamboo pegs, then the handle. Child's play.
Okay so i saw a katana that i really want tho it costs so flippin much! Tho i found the same katana but it’s dull and half the price… now if i buy it i can just sharpen it! Thank you!
If you finished the sanding with auto body sand paper for color coats you could sand it to a mirror finish, like 800, 1200 1500, 1800. I used to make medieval armor and those are the grits I used to end up with a mirror finish, they will remove the microscopic pits in the metal and scratch marks and make it a close glass finish.
Hey, im thinking about ordering a katana and since i see you are a master what kind would you recommend Note : i have no actual experience with swords after all so do you have a video which shows how to properly handle a sword? Edit : Thanks !
I suggest you to look for a dojo to learn the proper way of using the weapons, most of the trainning is made with wooden swords, because errors will happen, be sure of that. For metal swords, the 9260 and 1060 are good steel alloys for blades. My Friend Matthew Jensen had tested a lot of swords, i think he can help you much more than i do, so check his channel ua-cam.com/users/Krunan .
@@yosefyosef4223 Well, i did but it's not exactly a sword, im more into axes no, so im either gonna buy a SOG Voodoo Tomahawk, a Cold Steel Trench Hawk or a Gerber Downrange Tomahawk.
Now, I can understand some of the reactions here by fans of the channel. Because yes you get a lot of misinformed opinions from people who don't really know what they are talking about. But I trust constructive criticism would be appreciated because in the end, taking such criticism can improve one's skill at sharpening different sorts of edges and steels and also in the same process augment the life expectancy of your blades. Now, as a long term kendo and kenjutsu practitioner, since age 5 (and sometimes going against criticism for it as it's not a "girly thing" ahem) here's what I can say with my knowledge of the blades and sharpening them. Different steels and edge geometries require different techniques. It's just a fact of metallurgy. Now, can you do what is shown in this video and get a sharp blade that'll cut plastic bottles and paper? Absolutely. I mean if you buy a katana for a couple hundred dollars it's no use and a waste of time to go to more trouble than this. But if you have a blade worth many thousands of dollars, forged in the traditional style with Japanese steel and you sharpen it with such coarse paper and somewhat poor lubrication on top of a quick back and forth movement. I don't care about personal feelings towards the channel, it is a simple fact. You will ruin your edge geometry and you will make the blade less resistant. It will cut paper. It will cut plastic. But try to cut a traditional target like mats and you run the risk of your edge folding, notching, or even snap the blade between the half and 3/4 length mark. Katanas are sadly overhyped by inexperienced people. They are practically useless to the uninitiated and their edges are so easily damaged by bad edge alignment and even more so when the sharpening method is improper for the type of steel and edge geometry. BUT, and this is a big one. Blade disassembly is absolutely correct. I know of no kenjutsu experts or masters that do not disassemble their weapon for the sharpening process. It will not damage the katana when done properly for one, but to the contrary it will make the sharpening process easier and will avoid damage to the fine wrapping of your handle to cite one example. It will also let you manipulate your blade with finer precision as you remove a lot of bulk by working with the exposed tang. All of this said, if you possess a katana made of non traditional Japanese steel and/or forged in a different method, the traditional sharpening is most likely not only useless but could potentially even have negative effects on the edge as the geometry could vary. If you have a cheaper blade or one made in another country with different forging methods and steel this sharpening would most likely be fine and cause no real damage. However please I beg you, do not sharpen like this a handforged katana made by a master swordsmith as this technique will not cater to the steel nor the edge geometry. Not only will you damage a blade that cost you thousands of dollars, but you will squander the intense labor and precision that went into creating that piece of lethal art. They take masterful precision to craft properly, and equally as much precision and care to sharpen and maintain for decades. I have had mine for well over 12 years now and I still use it at the dojo for the cutting demos to this day. I am saying this as polite criticism, not as inflammatory personal slander towards the gentleman in the video, in hopes to avoid potential damage to people's expensive traditional blades and to allow the sharpener to learn more techniques based on edge alignment and metal composition of different blades. After all, mastery of a craft requires learning a great many techniques and when to use each one of them. Sharpening swords is an art and a science with a myriad of subtleties.
*In conclusion, In short* = Cheap sword = follow video Master sword = something else . *Master sword sharpening guidance not stated.. Nice story, read twice, respectfully didn't find helpful.. Numerous strength whetstone the long way with proper lubricant I presume is your preferred method? That's what I'm inclined to believe anyway..
Stopped reading your thesis right about where you said Japanese steel. This is Amazon steel, as in a $125 sword. That's why he's cutting soda bottles with it, weeb.
Hi. I’m a little late. 1)Will this create a secondary bevel? 2)From 400 grit, you said could be refined to 1000. Do I jump from 400 to 1000 or 400-500-600-700-800-900-1000? 3)I do not have a vice like you. Is there other alternatives? 4)I noticed you sanded the kissaki without water. Is it ok? Sorry for the qns! I have reviewed many sharpening techniques but yours seems the most viable without stones. Thank you.
1 No secondary bevel. 2 If you go gradually it will be easier. 3 You can fix the blade with clamps instead of fixing the tool. 4 I used wet sand paper for the kisaki.
@@LucianoSilvaOficial your original flat surface method is better because water will still be on sandpaper. But thanks for helping me to improvise. Kissaki start at 180 or 400?
Luciano, eu nunca afiei uma katana, mas nas minhas lâminas em geral eu gosto bastante de finalizar com lixas bem finas (1200, 2000, 3000) molhadas em óleo, e não água... Fazem um trabalho bastante delicado, deixando o fio incrível. Se vc tentar eu garanto que não vai te trazer prejuízo algum!
Nice job! Think i will try this. I was thinking of using an abrasive liquid cleaning substance such as Cif(aka Jif, Vim, Viss) because it is basically like a very very fine wet sandpaper. But i'm too worried about the chemical interaction with the steel.
@@LucianoSilvaOficial Yes indeed. I have used it more to polish other steel tools i make and they turn out really smooth. So it's definitely a fine touch. Works great for cleaning up your kitchen too haha :)
@@HqualH i actually ended up buying a cheap whetstone and it removed the hamon and sharpened it a fair amount, if i spent longer on it i could get it sharper, sand paper will work exactly the same just depends on the grit
Great video! I am used to sharpen knives, but using sandpaper on the whole lenght of the sword woudn´t destroy the beautiful hamon on the blade? I have a chinese 1045 carbon steel (Cheness Ranko) that is not as sharp as it was, since I have used it to cut some bottles and stuff. Nowadays it mostly is just for show, but I still wish it to be as sharp as possible, but I am afraid to destroy its hamon (that nice color variation on the edge, you know...) in the process. What do you think? Greetings from Brazil!
Hello Rafael, i'm Brazilian too, but as you comented here i'll reply in english. A real hamon will stay in the blade after the sword ia polished, but a fake hamon commonly found in modern blades will disapear after the sharpening and polishing of your blade.
@@LucianoSilvaOficialIt´s supposed to be a hand forged, oil quenched blade, but it was relatively cheap. That seems like a big risk to take...such a pretty hamon...LoL. Thanks for the fast reply!
Work until you remove all the scratches from the previous sand paper. You can check it easily with some paint. apply it over all the blade, and when you remove it completely by sanding, it's time to move to a thinner grith.
@@LucianoSilvaOficialworking on my beater $50 Amazon katana 1045 carbon steel had the blue colored blade now only y the is blood groove is blue. thanks I got the same setup with thing that holds the paper. I'm gonna keep on sanding away
Do your katanas have a paper cutting flat edge, or does this method maintain the original appleseed edge? This is pretty much what I expected you'd be doing rather than using those absurdly expensive Japanese stones people insist on, but I'm just a little worried about the sanding block having a flat surface. I don't test cut often and my Katana is sort of a mix between a conversation starter and an emergency home defense measure. It currently has a 'battlefield' edge, as in it will not cut paper, but it will go through a bottle if the edge alignment is good. I would like it sharper but have always been worried about spoiling the edge as it has an authentic hamon and geometry
Usually my swords cant cut paper since i keep using them to practice cuts very often. Yet they can cut a Green coconut or bamboo with ease, so they are battlefield ready even not being razor sharp. About using sandpaper, dont worry, you will not remove so much metal by hand work with sandpaper.
The scratches shall be removed when you polish the blade with a thinner grith stone, about the hamon, it will appear after the polishing, but if its false it will disapear forever.
When you removed all the scratches from the previous abrasive its time to change. You may use diferent angles to notice better when you reach this point.
I usually go until #600 but you can go further for a better result and It will also be better If you use more intermediate grits than changing directly from rought to smother sand paper.
Great video, tx. I use whetstone, but that is my personal preference. If sanding paper does it for you, by all means use that. After all, its just a steel tool, not a magical item like some seems to think. Watched the video on the pro. sword sharpener, very informative, tx for that link.
I use a similar method although I clamp the blade to a flat surface then use a steel block (roughly the size of a whetstone) with the sandpaper wrapped around it. Similar to how you sharpened the tip 👍🏻
The video shows the grith of each sandpaper. You must start with lower numbers and go to higher. This will remove the scratches from the previous and polish the surface of the blade.
This sword, i imported from USA 8 years ago, it costed around US$200. But i have another 2 swords, one katana and a wakizashi, i bought them second hand, and i paid R$300 for the katana and R$200 for the wakizashi, convert it from Real to your money and you can see how much a used sword can cost if you look carefully and have some patience.
Nice bro!! Nice Katana man .. I’m trying to sharpen a WW1 saw back German machine gunners sword bayonet.. you have given me some pointers .. but what I’m trying to sharpen now has NO edge on it .. the cutting edge and point of the bayonet are round ..I couldn’t cut a marshmallow with it if i tried..
Your sword came out extremely sharp and people still criticize your method. You you obviously made your method and people don't like to be wrong. Good for you man.
Thank you!
You're a dumbass
He doesn't sharpen it he polished it 😤
Cute bruh but when you learn more you'll realize this guy did a whole bunch of unnecessary things to achieve a minimal sharpness.
Yes, I appreciate and disappointed with this world for that
For starters, this is a video on HOW to SHARPEN a katana with HOUSEHOLD ITEMS, not traditional japanese whetstones carved from the ass of the sacred gorund of Mt. Fujji.
Hey man, I can't believe so many people full of shit on the comments. The fact that they fantasize katanas shows they are full of BS. I can tell you have had a lot of practice. That cut at the end was quite impressive. And know your way around mantaining a sword with the tools at hand, which is very important knowledge.
I love how people tell you what you should do or not do with your katana, as if it were a legendary Tokugawa heirloom passed down by generations of samurai. A katana, is a sword. a piece of steel. It is a tool. And if people cant get around the idea that a katana is just a tool, then they shouldn't be wielding one.
Nice video man, keep it up
Thanks Andres, and if i had mentioned that this sword is made in china they would probably say it's not a sword at all.
Ironically enough, the reason I watched this video is because someone gave me a Wakizashi about 3 and a half years ago. Before this I only owed a "traditional" looking Ninja To that I purchased for 190.00, 25 years ago (turned out to be a wall mount sword). Before that; only a boken. I wrapped the boken handle with cord to give it a realistic feel.
Well, two days ago I decided to refurbish the scabbard to the Wakazishi gift I was given a few years ago. It was worn; duct tape held on a shoe lace attached to a broken off wooden cord mount still hanging on due to the shoe lace. Duct tape alsp held on the metal blade guard on the open end of the scabbard. I did not want the aged look of tradition. I wanted duabilty and function implementing modern, light wieght components.
I stripped off the duct tape taking what was left of the sheen with it. I stripped off end cap cover as well. I sanded by hand course to ultra fine. I built a paint booth by sweeping, mopping and dusting my ultily room. I then laid out a sheet and set up a mount to hold my scabbard from what I could find in my garage (propane hand held torch with stem). I simply placed the torch under the sheet and cut a 1/4 inch hole for the stem to come through, the slid the scabbard down over the stem where the sword enters in.
Before painting the scabbard with corosion proof all weather primer mixed with matt black paint, I drilled two holes in the scabbard to mount an aluminium rope loop above the traditional wooded mount and I mounted this piece running vertical, not horizontal. This is my mount for pack carry. I have cargo loops on the side of my tactical pack that perfectly hold my scabbard on the right side of my pack. I used sex bolts to attach rope loop rather than tiny wood screws that can be jerked out of the wood. I also reattached original cord mount with Gorilla brand super glue.
Before I mounted the aluminium rope loop, I painted; 4 coats in 6 hours for ample dry time between coats, dusting the scabbard with paint one layer at a time. I sanded and painted the metal blade guard, used two complete rotatians of electrical tape to compensate for loosness under the metal guard, dotted the inside of the guard with super glue and worked it all the way onto the scabbard; tight enough for tight fit, without tearing into tape on the way down.
The end product was so pristine, that it made the furniature covering the tang to look subpar to the scabbard; scabbard looked like a Batman weapon and the handle and tsuba looked like they belonged in something much older or simple looking.
The tsuba had been rubbed clean of original finnish and was dusted with tiny rust particals and tarnished. So... I chose to venture into the unknown and break it down and make it new to match the scabbard. Wow!!! Turns out I had been given an exceptional sword; easily a 5 or 6 hundred dollar Wakizashi, battle born, full tang, everything very snug and fit (I am not an expert in handling these sword, nor have I ever worked on them or refurbished one until two days ago, but I have read a good deal of information on them and formed my own opinion as to what makes this weapon/tool/piece of art/object of deep thought and stimuli for inspiration/an extention of one's own being (soul)... Valuable; able to have value; I epressed that in my refurbishing project). I sanded everything to perfection and then painted with love.
This sword looks brand new, ready and custom without traditional flare; looks and feels very solid, tactical.
Now... I I move on to learning different sharpening meathods. I do have a long sharpening stone that my grandfather left beind. I am thinking I can use the techniques he taught me with 10 and 12 inch knives (his knives were immaculate and scary sharp) and apply that to the Wakazishi. I'm going to watch any videos I can first to pick the brains of those with experience, then proceed with disarmament. So far, I have not seen anyone doing what Grandpa did (I only just started watching these though) in that Grandpa approached the sharpening process like a prayer, or deep meditation. The process was expected to take awhile; might even be broken up over a few sessions, no hurry. To hurry was not the point, we had utility knives on standby for immediate needs. The other knives though; they were special, if only to us; I see that in the Wakizashi.
At the end of the day it is a tool forged from elements of creation, what one puts into preserving what has been created speaks truth on all levels.
Thank you for you video!
Katanas are weapons and they're not indestructible. Keep in mind samurai always carried two swords. As beautiful as they are they're not as amazing as the legends make them out to be.
I think this guy is chilled.. chilled but deadly
@@michaelbarr9139 they didnt carry them if they broke its for different fighting styles like horse back up close etc
You know, I've owned swords and have been training with them for YEARS AND YEARS, and I have never ONCE thought about using sandpaper and just wetting it like you'd do with a whetstone. That's actually fucking brilliant dude. It's so much cheaper to buy sandpaper and it has the same effect once you wet it with some water. This is a really smart way to sharpen cheaply, especially if it's just a sword that you practice with and not a seriously high end one. And it's super cool how sharp you got it! This video just blew my mind man, great job. 👍🏼
Thank you!
Word I came here wondering if it was possible to sharpen $50 katanas and I think I found my answer. I don’t have the fancy work bench he has but I should be able to rig something up!
Emory Cloth made to sand wet. J
Me too same I'm going to try this on a honshu boshin bush sword I have
It's not brilliant by far. It is common sense. You can put an edge on just about anything with anything If you understand aggregate properties. In material composition
Can we take a moment to appreciate the accuracy of the cuts on that bottle. Pretty impressive
Thank you!
Before everyone critizises... This is an OK video. If you really own a real high quality katana, than you invest in some real wet stones of high granulation. I saw you using only granulation 360... Well I start sharpening my katanas with wetstone 1000 granulation. And than finish with 6000. My katanas are so sharp I can cut with my imagination. But if you use your katanas for show or just to work a certain period of time, than your technique is equaly good. And its a similar technique. So, good job
Can I take a look your katana?
You are obviously misinformed. Only two grits are needed for sharpening and honing: 400 and 1000.
1000/2000 (N. A./Japan) is for a finishing edge/honing only. If there are nicks and chips, start lower and finish at 1000. Over `1000 is polishing grit only.
Klemen do you have a video as well? I would love to watch
Research the DUNNING-KRUGER EFFECT! That is you all over!! You are a prime example.
He did not need to show us the paper at the end😂😂 the pure finesse he had cutting that bottle said it all
He did not cut a bottle, he shattered it.
Median weight of this comment section is 300 pounds.
Conner of Dill Creek Ladies and gentlemen, I am BELOW AVERAGE!
not me 300lbs and proud
EXCUSE YOU. I'M 299
602
Really impressive cutting and no doubting the sharpness. I wish you went into more detail about the angle of sharpening and how you properly work around the curved feature of the blade to sharpen it equally throughout.
Oh god, ever since I had an accident at work involving a box cutter, watching videos of people cutting through objects like its nothing sends a shiver up my spine.
He handles it like a true swordsman. Love the firce cuts and force
Sarcastically or actually?
All the top comments are talking about people who are mad that he didn't use authentic japanese stones and tools and stuff wich makes it a poor method because it doesn't look legit?
Maybe...
But then again
I'm just a dude with a cool long knife that can't cut paper very well anymore. I dont live near a real authentic Togishi But I do live near a real authentic Hardware store.
So I'm probably gonna try this first.
Thanks for the knowledge, king👍
I ran across this video last week and thought I would give it a go. It was the first time I've ever attempted to sharpen a katana, so I used one of the ones I bought as a wall hanger. Since I don't have this young man's experience, I used painters tape to protect the blade and only left the cutting edge exposed. Even though it was a cheap 1045 Musha, this method put a decent cutting edge on the blade in no time at all. I was so impressed that I went on to put a fine cutting edge on the 1075 Marbles machete I use for camping. After that I took down a stainless steel European wall hanger and put a sharp edge on that in just a few minutes.
WOW! This is a fast, easy, and very effective method for putting a keen edge on just about any long blade! I'm so glad I found this video! Now I just need to keep practicing this until I have the confidence to try this on better steel...
Thank you so much for the upload!
You're welcome.
The way the Japanese disassemble the Katana is like a simple piece of lego
Professional just pummel their fist to the hand guard right? 😆
My dad and brother can do that im a noob but I still have a sharper sword then theirs i use to shave my hear jk
Yeah but that requires a properly fitted tsuka. Should fit the tang like a glove. But usually only really high end swords are like this. Your common Chinese made production blade won't likely be like that so it takes more effort
I never would of thought about using sand paper for sharpening a sword like the katana, hands down great method, keep it up!
you know i used to wander why guys like matt easton and skallagrim ragged on katana nerds so much, i myself am a fan of the blade, but i'm looking at these comments and it's hilarious considering matt did a vid on polishing an antique sword with a drill buffer and some polish compound lol
It's a nice sword but a fucking magnet for annoying people.
@@LucianoSilvaOficial definitely, and i mean i get WHY it's so popular, anime and japanese videogames and even japanese misticism, which WAS in fact mysterious up until just the recent era around the 2000s made the sword VERY appealing to americans and westerners, at a time when medieval fantasy was looking the same in every movie you had the japanese, who could write several differents types of fantasy from japanese hisotrical or non historical fiction to something between it and chinese to something like final fantasy where japanese things pop up from time to time, when the japanese make fantasy they incorporate several different cultures half the time from western, asian, to middle eastern, to the point where theirs more variety their than in the west, and only recently has western fantasy and medieval movies and such gotten better like game of thrones, outlaw king, etc, so it's no surprise that the katana has so much support when it's gotten much more screen time and positive enforcement than other legendary blades, not t mention again, the secret ism of how they did their stuff and such for the longest time and their adherence to traditionalism, while i respect it, has done what kung fu did and gave a false sense of "the old ways are the best ways" which is common for humans to believe since we cling to the familiar and ten d to shrink away from things that aren't familiar, like industrialism, i admit when i see a sword smith polish a blade with a belt sander, i get aggravated, mostly cuz i don't have that tool, i have to sand my sword down by hand and their are still places i can't get out of some of my swords because they require grinding to remove such as deep yet smooth to the touch pitting, etc, so theirs a hint of jealousy at new types of doing things cuz their not as readily available or affordable so people tend to get upset, not to mention most humans have a habit of sticking to traditionalism, out of respect and a sense of wanting something spiritual to make sense of the world and forging a katana for the japanese is just as much religious as it is work, so yeah you get people who think the thousand time forged sword is the strongest thing in the world, but i will say, using whetstones can actually have a slightly different effect, but i'm not sure if they hurt the hamon of a katana or not, sorry for being so long winded
not bad. It looks like a good and feasible method to sharpen the edge of Japanese steel. Though the traditional way takes far farrrr longer. So good method Luciano
Mecha-Art is the traditional method any different than using the modern method?
@@pogchamp9786 The traditional method includes using all the way up to 10000 grit white malachite Japanese whetstones by hand for hours in extreme focus. Not to me the stupid price of the stones
i was in a dojo for 4 years and ever since I wanted a katana now I’m 26 and I just got 3 rare ones and I’m ready to sharpen them in case i was invaded by some ninja at night . Thanks ✌🏾
simple yet effective method, great job!
Thank you!
People think that using whetstone is necessary, but afterall katana is just a steel, dosent matter if it is normal steel, tungsten or tamahagane, and only japanese swordsmiths can sharp katana with the whetstone and call it official, if anyone else does it... It's just a way to sharp and it's not official..
Its a rule of Japan that, only japanese swordsmiths can do things to katana and call it real.. so as we are not japanese swordsmiths, it's ok to work with whatever we love.
Good job and thanks for the video and way of the sharpening👍
It works! I sharpened my Katana (1060 steel, clay hamon) with sandpaper, too. It is now very sharp. When I do the cutting test with paper, it cuts even bettert than he did in the video. But I started with 400 grains.
I started at 400 and did about 30 passes each side. It seems like it could be sharper. Can I go backwards to 320 grit?
Do you need to change the grit or can you stick with one?
You have to start with a rought grit and chang gradually for a sharper and polished result.
@@LucianoSilvaOficial ah I see. Thank you for clarifying
I've been playing a shit ton of Ghost of Tsushima and I decided I'd buy a katana now I'm here.
Welcome.
Good job brother, dedication pays off.
Thank you.
This is pretty much how I sharpened my dads wall hanger and it proved a serviceable cutter since the steel was as soft as my morning shit I was able to go straight to 400, only thing I would do differently is to remove the paper that isn't held by the clamps as the looseness of it would cause it to sort of wrap around the edge and start of the bevel and round them off which over time would reduce its cutting performance and put somewhat of a convex secondary bevel on it aswell as overpolish the flat or bo-hi, I plan to do this to the ryujin sword katana I purchased recently when it arrives as one review suggested the sharpness could be better
Valeu meu bruxo!! Ajudou muito na minha katana aqui, ganhou mais um inscrito
This video helped me. I have a 3 in by half an in stone and was trying to do this with the stone locked in place and my blade in my hands but you made me realize I can lock my blade in place and use my stone more effectively.
The fact that you easily cut through the hardest part of the plastic(where lid screws on) shows how well it was sharpened. But I can't bring myself to use sandpaper. I'll be buying a whetstone for my Katana too much money to be scratching the finish.
You know I was polishing a blade I had one day with some 2000 grit sandpaper, I had the idea of wondering why somebody just doesn't take a block of wood and wrap the sandpaper around it and make a sharpener that way it seems like it would be much easier to replace and possibly more cost effective.. I had not thought of the idea in a while and then I came across this!!! Thank you so much you kind of put a few pieces together that will probably help me to do this as well I think it's a very good idea you could probably even make a more refined version of it that is portable.
Thanks I bought an old katana at a flea market and your video helped make it razor sharp
You're welcome.
How long does the whole process to take?
2~3 hours.
Wow, that is really sharp! Well done! Buddy of mine might be getting a few Katanas soon, said he would like to give me one. I'm definitely gonna use your method if it works out, thanks.
I just purchased an antique sword in Japan, 300 years old, I want to sharpen it. Could I used these same techniques?
I dont recomend trying tô sharpen an antique if you dont have experience.
Wow. This comment section is full of weeaboos who think they know more about katanas than you, just because they watched anime. LOL
A weeaboo can never get his hands on a real katana.
However, a person who actually knows things and can separate fact from fiction, CAN get a real katana.
People who believe at the same time that Katanas can cut anything it touches and never get dull but cant handle some "rough" disassembly.
Luciano Silva And they show anime and video games as "proof".
Luciano Silva Also, you forgot that they pretty much contradict themselves by saying the katana can cut anything.
Then why do katana fail to cut open the scabbard when you sheath/unsheath it? XD
Low-Class Saiyan I'm talking about those who say it's a disrespectful way to disassemble a katana because they are "holy sacred divine artifacts" or whatever.
Low-Class Saiyan Actually, whetstone is for sharpening and polishing. The disassemble happens by removing the bamboo pegs, then the handle. Child's play.
I love your methods here . I am gonna do exactly what you did . I like all your stuff on your walls also great video
Thank you!
Okay so i saw a katana that i really want tho it costs so flippin much! Tho i found the same katana but it’s dull and half the price… now if i buy it i can just sharpen it! Thank you!
It’s a great way for budget sword sharpening, it works very well
Easy and cheap technique for beginners. Great video!
Awesome video!
Will it break my hamon?
If the hamon is real, polisinhg the blade Will make it more visible, but if it's fake it will disapear.
I like how he never blinks because he is so focused.
If you finished the sanding with auto body sand paper for color coats you could sand it to a mirror finish, like 800, 1200 1500, 1800. I used to make medieval armor and those are the grits I used to end up with a mirror finish, they will remove the microscopic pits in the metal and scratch marks and make it a close glass finish.
Very nice Luciano!! Thank you!
I always say," if it gets the job done-do it. 😁👍🏻
This method worked really well!! 💜 My Katana is even sharper then when i bought it!
Nice sword :) greetings from Krakow, the capital of Polish saber .... szablotłuk polski
Thank you!
Use headphones at 3:22. Wow you cut through the the cap and the threads. Idk what is crazier, the sharpness or your accuracy.
I just bought a katana with a painted blade if I sharpen it will that cause the paint to come off?
Good video man, simple is always best
Thank you!
Nice I like ur dedication for sharping ur katana and knives
What tool are you using at 12:09 ? Thanks.
It's just a piece of aluminium L-bar
Thank you.
How much concentration in that man
Hey, im thinking about ordering a katana and since i see you are a master what kind would you recommend
Note : i have no actual experience with swords after all so do you have a video which shows how to properly handle a sword?
Edit : Thanks !
I suggest you to look for a dojo to learn the proper way of using the weapons, most of the trainning is made with wooden swords, because errors will happen, be sure of that.
For metal swords, the 9260 and 1060 are good steel alloys for blades.
My Friend Matthew Jensen had tested a lot of swords, i think he can help you much more than i do, so check his channel ua-cam.com/users/Krunan .
@@LucianoSilvaOficial Thanks, will be sure to check them out!
@@LucianoSilvaOficial what about spring steel? Is it a bad material for blade?
MoonMaan what is it? Have you decided what kind of sword you will buy
@@yosefyosef4223 Well, i did but it's not exactly a sword, im more into axes no, so im either gonna buy a SOG Voodoo Tomahawk, a Cold Steel Trench Hawk or a Gerber Downrange Tomahawk.
very nice blade, great form for that bottle cut
That sounds like your surrounded by dogs.
Now, I can understand some of the reactions here by fans of the channel. Because yes you get a lot of misinformed opinions from people who don't really know what they are talking about.
But I trust constructive criticism would be appreciated because in the end, taking such criticism can improve one's skill at sharpening different sorts of edges and steels and also in the same process augment the life expectancy of your blades.
Now, as a long term kendo and kenjutsu practitioner, since age 5 (and sometimes going against criticism for it as it's not a "girly thing" ahem) here's what I can say with my knowledge of the blades and sharpening them.
Different steels and edge geometries require different techniques. It's just a fact of metallurgy.
Now, can you do what is shown in this video and get a sharp blade that'll cut plastic bottles and paper? Absolutely.
I mean if you buy a katana for a couple hundred dollars it's no use and a waste of time to go to more trouble than this.
But if you have a blade worth many thousands of dollars, forged in the traditional style with Japanese steel and you sharpen it with such coarse paper and somewhat poor lubrication on top of a quick back and forth movement. I don't care about personal feelings towards the channel, it is a simple fact.
You will ruin your edge geometry and you will make the blade less resistant.
It will cut paper. It will cut plastic. But try to cut a traditional target like mats and you run the risk of your edge folding, notching, or even snap the blade between the half and 3/4 length mark.
Katanas are sadly overhyped by inexperienced people. They are practically useless to the uninitiated and their edges are so easily damaged by bad edge alignment and even more so when the sharpening method is improper for the type of steel and edge geometry.
BUT, and this is a big one. Blade disassembly is absolutely correct. I know of no kenjutsu experts or masters that do not disassemble their weapon for the sharpening process. It will not damage the katana when done properly for one, but to the contrary it will make the sharpening process easier and will avoid damage to the fine wrapping of your handle to cite one example. It will also let you manipulate your blade with finer precision as you remove a lot of bulk by working with the exposed tang.
All of this said, if you possess a katana made of non traditional Japanese steel and/or forged in a different method, the traditional sharpening is most likely not only useless but could potentially even have negative effects on the edge as the geometry could vary.
If you have a cheaper blade or one made in another country with different forging methods and steel this sharpening would most likely be fine and cause no real damage.
However please I beg you, do not sharpen like this a handforged katana made by a master swordsmith as this technique will not cater to the steel nor the edge geometry. Not only will you damage a blade that cost you thousands of dollars, but you will squander the intense labor and precision that went into creating that piece of lethal art. They take masterful precision to craft properly, and equally as much precision and care to sharpen and maintain for decades. I have had mine for well over 12 years now and I still use it at the dojo for the cutting demos to this day.
I am saying this as polite criticism, not as inflammatory personal slander towards the gentleman in the video, in hopes to avoid potential damage to people's expensive traditional blades and to allow the sharpener to learn more techniques based on edge alignment and metal composition of different blades. After all, mastery of a craft requires learning a great many techniques and when to use each one of them. Sharpening swords is an art and a science with a myriad of subtleties.
ZirconX holy shit bruh that’s some essay
*In conclusion, In short* =
Cheap sword = follow video
Master sword = something else
.
*Master sword sharpening guidance not stated..
Nice story, read twice, respectfully didn't find helpful.. Numerous strength whetstone the long way with proper lubricant I presume is your preferred method?
That's what I'm inclined to believe anyway..
ZirconX Damn that some good shit
Stopped reading your thesis right about where you said Japanese steel. This is Amazon steel, as in a $125 sword. That's why he's cutting soda bottles with it, weeb.
@@bigtender6393 facts
Hi. I’m a little late.
1)Will this create a secondary bevel?
2)From 400 grit, you said could be refined to 1000. Do I jump from 400 to 1000 or 400-500-600-700-800-900-1000?
3)I do not have a vice like you. Is there other alternatives?
4)I noticed you sanded the kissaki without water. Is it ok?
Sorry for the qns! I have reviewed many sharpening techniques but yours seems the most viable without stones.
Thank you.
1 No secondary bevel.
2 If you go gradually it will be easier.
3 You can fix the blade with clamps instead of fixing the tool.
4 I used wet sand paper for the kisaki.
@@LucianoSilvaOficial your original flat surface method is better because water will still be on sandpaper. But thanks for helping me to improvise. Kissaki start at 180 or 400?
The same progression of the blade.
@@LucianoSilvaOficial you are awesome!
Luciano, eu nunca afiei uma katana, mas nas minhas lâminas em geral eu gosto bastante de finalizar com lixas bem finas (1200, 2000, 3000) molhadas em óleo, e não água... Fazem um trabalho bastante delicado, deixando o fio incrível. Se vc tentar eu garanto que não vai te trazer prejuízo algum!
Why didn't I think about this, you are simply genius
I can finally sharp my great grandfather Arabian sword
The sword by which he protected other religion and muslims too..
Thanks alot .
Would it damage the sword or scratch it
So… I’m wondering if you have to actually take the blade out to sharpen it? Or can you leave it as it was?
It's easier if you disassemble it first.
Very helpful thank you
hi, just wondering how many passes approximately (ie. up and down movements) do you need before you can advance to a higher grit? Thanks,
Keep the same grit until it removes all the marks of the previous grit.
@@LucianoSilvaOficial but if each grit introduce new scratches how do u tell which scratches belong to which grit?
Nice job! Think i will try this. I was thinking of using an abrasive liquid cleaning substance such as Cif(aka Jif, Vim, Viss) because it is basically like a very very fine wet sandpaper. But i'm too worried about the chemical interaction with the steel.
Test on another piece of steel before.
@@LucianoSilvaOficial Yes indeed. I have used it more to polish other steel tools i make and they turn out really smooth. So it's definitely a fine touch. Works great for cleaning up your kitchen too haha :)
I've used flitz for years and it produces a nice satin finish over time
Tysm i’m gonna pray this works when I buy my katana 🙏🏾
I started at 400 and did about 30 passes each side. It seems like it could be sharper. Can I go backwards to 320 grit?
Yes, start at 80 and move up.
gonna try this, I bought a relatively cheap sword with a brushed Hamon, i reckon this method should deal with it pretty quick
Did it work? I bought a dead one for cheap so it’s not sharp and I want to know if it’s worth my time
@@HqualH i actually ended up buying a cheap whetstone and it removed the hamon and sharpened it a fair amount, if i spent longer on it i could get it sharper, sand paper will work exactly the same just depends on the grit
Nice work!!
combien de temp faut il aiguiser ?
Great video! I am used to sharpen knives, but using sandpaper on the whole lenght of the sword woudn´t destroy the beautiful hamon on the blade? I have a chinese 1045 carbon steel (Cheness Ranko) that is not as sharp as it was, since I have used it to cut some bottles and stuff. Nowadays it mostly is just for show, but I still wish it to be as sharp as possible, but I am afraid to destroy its hamon (that nice color variation on the edge, you know...) in the process. What do you think? Greetings from Brazil!
Hello Rafael, i'm Brazilian too, but as you comented here i'll reply in english. A real hamon will stay in the blade after the sword ia polished, but a fake hamon commonly found in modern blades will disapear after the sharpening and polishing of your blade.
@@LucianoSilvaOficialIt´s supposed to be a hand forged, oil quenched blade, but it was relatively cheap. That seems like a big risk to take...such a pretty hamon...LoL. Thanks for the fast reply!
“no time to blink when sharpening a sword“ understandable 👏🏻🤣
This video was very helpful. Thank you for sharing!
You're welcome.
@@LucianoSilvaOficial I have been very frustrated trying to sharpen my sword until I watched your video. May I ask who made your sword?
Its made by Cheness, Oniyuri model made with 9260 steel.
@@LucianoSilvaOficial thank you my friend!!
How long did it take on the 400 I'm still waiting for my razor sharp edge
Work until you remove all the scratches from the previous sand paper. You can check it easily with some paint. apply it over all the blade, and when you remove it completely by sanding, it's time to move to a thinner grith.
@@LucianoSilvaOficialworking on my beater $50 Amazon katana 1045 carbon steel had the blue colored blade now only y the is blood groove is blue. thanks I got the same setup with thing that holds the paper. I'm gonna keep on sanding away
@@LucianoSilvaOficial Mine still doesn't feel sharp went up to 600 grit. Was hoping to get as sharp as yours just with 400 grit. Idk.
@@WhiteBoyizFresh Try rework the edge from the begining with a file until you get the edge as thin as possible, then start to sand again.
Do your katanas have a paper cutting flat edge, or does this method maintain the original appleseed edge? This is pretty much what I expected you'd be doing rather than using those absurdly expensive Japanese stones people insist on, but I'm just a little worried about the sanding block having a flat surface. I don't test cut often and my Katana is sort of a mix between a conversation starter and an emergency home defense measure. It currently has a 'battlefield' edge, as in it will not cut paper, but it will go through a bottle if the edge alignment is good. I would like it sharper but have always been worried about spoiling the edge as it has an authentic hamon and geometry
Usually my swords cant cut paper since i keep using them to practice cuts very often. Yet they can cut a Green coconut or bamboo with ease, so they are battlefield ready even not being razor sharp. About using sandpaper, dont worry, you will not remove so much metal by hand work with sandpaper.
Will this damage a hamon line or cause scratches?
The scratches shall be removed when you polish the blade with a thinner grith stone, about the hamon, it will appear after the polishing, but if its false it will disapear forever.
Thanks 🙏
I have recently purchased a katana. This was helpful
When do you know when to stop using a certain sandpaper
When you removed all the scratches from the previous abrasive its time to change. You may use diferent angles to notice better when you reach this point.
Oh thanks👍
When the blade starts to become more mirror like and markless
So you have to take of the handle to sharpen it?
Yes, this is how it's done.
Dude, this is genius!!
Thank you for the guidance!
great job, can you tell us all the grits u used? or rather how much farther would you go than 400
I usually go until #600 but you can go further for a better result and It will also be better If you use more intermediate grits than changing directly from rought to smother sand paper.
So for example should I go 200 - 300 - 400 - 600 - 800 - 1200?
also youre using an up and down motion am I correct?
10:59 why did you switch to hand sanding sand paper in your hand
8:12 how does he do it that fast?
years of training
Great video, tx.
I use whetstone, but that is my personal preference. If sanding paper does it for you, by all means use that. After all, its just a steel tool, not a magical item like some seems to think.
Watched the video on the pro. sword sharpener, very informative, tx for that link.
My friend ,what kind of blade is your sword? 1060 1045 or t10 other
That was a 9260 blade by cheness.
I use a similar method although I clamp the blade to a flat surface then use a steel block (roughly the size of a whetstone) with the sandpaper wrapped around it. Similar to how you sharpened the tip 👍🏻
Good method too.
Does this work with a machine made katana
It works in any blade.
Do you know the maker and model of your sword ? I have the same one that I bought years ago but I can’t remember anything about it.
That sword was a Cheness Oniyuri.
Can someone please tell me what sand paper did he use why is he changing them? Newbie here
The video shows the grith of each sandpaper. You must start with lower numbers and go to higher. This will remove the scratches from the previous and polish the surface of the blade.
What model and steel is this katana? Ty
It is a Cheness Oniyuri made of 5260 spring steel.
Where can I get that black thing
What is the best angle to sharpen a katana?
The original angle of the sword.
@@LucianoSilvaOficial I don't know because I've already tried to sharpen it.
How about if you can't get the pegs?
You still can sharpen the Blade but take care to dont let water and dust get in the handle.
@LucianoSilvaOficial thanks, can't believe I actually own one now.
What knife did you use in the beginning?
Its a chinese knife sold in Brazil by Nautika. It's called Diutac commander.
www.nautikalazer.com.br/faca-diutac---ntk-321080/p
Can't argue with results
Any recommendation for a good samurai sword under $100? Or is that impossible? Where did you get yours?
This sword, i imported from USA 8 years ago, it costed around US$200. But i have another 2 swords, one katana and a wakizashi, i bought them second hand, and i paid R$300 for the katana and R$200 for the wakizashi, convert it from Real to your money and you can see how much a used sword can cost if you look carefully and have some patience.
When ur hammering the pegs back in will they stay or will they fall out
No a little more loose each time but they won't just fall out
Nice bro!! Nice Katana man .. I’m trying to sharpen a WW1 saw back German machine gunners sword bayonet.. you have given me some pointers .. but what I’m trying to sharpen now has NO edge on it .. the cutting edge and point of the bayonet are round ..I couldn’t cut a marshmallow with it if i tried..
What’s that paper you are using to sharpen the sword?
I show the grith of the paper before changing each one.