I didn't hear "SPACERS!" My wife only watches these video with me to hear you say it, as it brightens her day. Keep up the good work, and keep making these awesome videos, Ivan.
I read on the internet...The ideal router bits to work on aluminum are straight bits and carbide-tipped. You need to use 3/8 inch wide cut. Do not use smaller bits since they tend to get hot and soon aluminum shavings clog up their blades then ultimately stop cutting.. hope it helps
Quick tip for securing your aluminium sheets on the router bed. i really struggeled to get thin sheets fixed properly use (test with different types) painters tape on both sides - worpiece and table. apply superglue to one side and a little spray of activator on the other. press and hold together for 10 sec. on some tapes the glue does not stick. some tapes do not stick great to wood (covered my base with some epoxy and i use 3m painters tape. this works like a charm. strong hold and easy to remove keep on great work
Honestly. Probably the best channel I watch. Not only are the builds fantastic!! Ivan is a funny funny guy, super relatable. And the music!!! Is on point!! Not a single track on any video do I not enjoy!! Perfection!
Thank you for including the part about having to go through several iterations. The mistakes are interesting, plus it's encouraging for those of us trying to follow along at home!
lovely quote "And i can make it bigger, and its my design, so i can make it bigger, and now its bigger." - Ivan miranda love your videos and go get it attitude
Your printers just get better and better. I did the exact same thing when I first built my DIY 3d printer. The first version was okay but the you start to think and build a new one. Working on v3 now. It's going to awesome.
Seriously impressive. Looked like you used a 1mm nozzle which is perfect for something that size. Honestly that print looks better than anything my CR-10 has ever produced. Great job!
Ha! There might actually be a decent way to make that without a CNC or 3d Printer. Maybe just a drill some tin snips ... and a hammer! Would be an interesting project! (Edit: of course you will need a 3d printer already ... to print the hammer!)
Just incredible! Your skills have come a long way since the beginning and the final product is testament to your on going commitment to developing. I'm also very envious of your workshop! Thanks for the brilliant videos.
Now it's time for an all-metal CNC machine. Great job on the 3D printer. I find it amusing that you spent a lot of effort in making the print bead assembly as light as possible but yet the print table moves just as much and as fast as the print head.
It is somewhat surprising that the platform is parallel to the x-rail without the need for calibration. Well done! You may have to add a platform leveling function if the alignment is off later.
I love the fact that that you are masterful at what you do, a little crazy and eccentric but you also show you don't always get it right the first attempt. Great job Ivan please keep up with the videos
@@bumbarabun That's a dangerous assumption for anything coming out of China. Half the stuff Big Clive pulls apart that has an earth wire turns out to not have it connected to anything. Just an unstripped wire flapping about inside the case.
Awesome build! Superb looking, and operating unit. Gorgeous print quality for just the second print example too. Here's a little challenge: why not DIY anodise the plain aly CNC parts ... In black or red. THEN engrave them THROUGH the anodising into bare aly. I made a hi-fi amp front panel around 40 years ago that even today looks brand, spanking new and just as fantastic as the day it was made. I had the anodising done as a favour by a professional firm, but have my own since.
I know that many of your followers, me included, will be waiting for the plans or files for making the aluminum/steel replacement components for your original design, so. . . when we will have them from you? Excellent work and your structural design is improving, it´s fun to follow your work and more even to build the machines.
Not sure if you did this but you should have a star-point earth with an earth post. All metalwork should be earthed since you have a mains connector close to the metal panels. Consider a filtered mains connector too.
You might have issues with warping since the print is only cooled from one side. A good shroud that redirects airflow around the nozzle will greatly help. 24:05 those writes seem a bit thin
Your mass production techniques are beautiful! :) You can make 6 near perfect identical pieces at one time, where it takes me a half hour to screw up 4 of them individually. :)
Oh my this is so cool. I just hope he didn't forget any SPACERSSSSSSS. Ps. since it's full-metal, I would use DirectDrive for the extruder. That way you don't need a bowden tube and the cable management is even easier, and it improves retraction a lot.
you should probably cut some vents to those side plates, all that metal around moving parts can't be good for static elecrtricity, which can get quite expensive...
Ivan you have reached a pinnacle this video filled me with a strange pride, like a father watching a child become an successful adult ive been subbed to you for many years now and i cannot count the amount of times your followers (me included) have called you on dangerous and unsafe work practices or suggested a tool after watching you do something the hard way like 10 times in a row due to humble beginnings or lack of knowledge ive gone from watching you work in a closet and holding my breath each time you cheat death, to admiring a professional maker deploy tools with safety, precision and attention to detail i hope you can appreciate how far you have come time for me to go.... and make something
What is that wierd tool that looks like a wooden stick with a metal clump at the end called? You used it several times in this video. Is is some kind of screwdriver handle replacement?
Why would you be sorry for a long video that is well created and actually shows something happening with just about every minute? Amazing video!!! If only I can get my current printers to print as nice as yours.
Very nicely done, Ivan! As a side note: The 2nd song in this video reminds me a lot of Policy of Truth by Depeche Mode. It has a very similar melody/timing/chord progression.
Another great video, I highly recommend not using your calipers as a scribe though (3:30). Each time you do this, they become slightly less accurate. I know it's often annoying to grab a scribe when the caliper seems to work, and you probably have enough youtube money to buy another pair of calipers regularly, but it's still a good habit to have.
The all metal construction will make it really sturdy even though it's probably not necessary. It feels a lot better going together then a 3d printed one though.
Great video and build as always! I did find myself skipping to all the parts where it's you talking about the build because of the length of the video this time and because you're a great entertainer who I come to see, besides the crazy builds. Also very glad to see some red at the end ;)
You done an excellent job , well done. any chance of plans for all the parts. The one thing I would change is to add a set of wheels that run on the opposite side of the rail that the table wheels run on, this is to prevent the table lifting up, especially when printing tall top heavy objects...really needs to lock that table in position.
That's super awesome! I recently built a railcore ii. (It might not be my design, but I did build it from scratch) I'd be interested to see how they compare.
Uses 3D printer to make a CNC mill, and then proceeds to use the CNC mill to make a 3D printer. The Circle of Life.
you forgot the ultimate tool, that can do what the mill can, and much more. The Lathe.
I am still waiting for @Ivan to make a CNC Lathe.
HAHAHA Just about to make the same comment
@@AndersJackson lathes don't do mill stuff very well. You can get by, but I'd rather have both
@@liquerinfrnt with a mill and a lathe, you can build everything
Buy a 3d printer, make a CNC mill, sell that 3d printer, make another one with your CNC
And nobody was surprised when the hammer turned out to be a screwdriver!
What you mean? Its a large red hammer.
I always mix up my hammers and my screwdrivers 😂😂
Every tool's a hammer
@@WKfpv even if it's a saw :)
It's a running joke since the one time when he used a screw driver handle to hammer something in with.. Wait until you come across the SPACERS!!
I watch so many youtubers using CNC milling machines for simple stuff - it's nice to see someone using a file.
Files for the win?
@@ivanmirandawastaken Spacers!
@@ivanmirandawastaken NSA Agents be like:
you need some clickspring in your youtube feed!
@@Grand-Master-Azrael files for the windows
All that work, just to print a large hammer :)
Looks like you're part of the notification squad :)
Anything for a good, large, red hammer 😉
Please make a collaboration! You guys are so awesome and both print big things, so please meet up!
@@ivanmirandawastaken Exactly
Nos cuentas un día como haces el firmware?
I didn't hear "SPACERS!" My wife only watches these video with me to hear you say it, as it brightens her day. Keep up the good work, and keep making these awesome videos, Ivan.
I love how your videos cut straight to the chase and just start building. It's the perfect format for this sort of content.
I read on the internet...The ideal router bits to work on aluminum are straight bits and carbide-tipped. You need to use 3/8 inch wide cut. Do not use smaller bits since they tend to get hot and soon aluminum shavings clog up their blades then ultimately stop cutting.. hope it helps
This is absolutely amazing!!
I didnt expect such a clean print.
Thums up.
Quick tip for securing your aluminium sheets on the router bed. i really struggeled to get thin sheets fixed properly
use (test with different types) painters tape on both sides - worpiece and table. apply superglue to one side and a little spray of activator on the other. press and hold together for 10 sec.
on some tapes the glue does not stick. some tapes do not stick great to wood (covered my base with some epoxy and i use 3m painters tape. this works like a charm. strong hold and easy to remove
keep on great work
Honestly. Probably the best channel I watch. Not only are the builds fantastic!! Ivan is a funny funny guy, super relatable. And the music!!! Is on point!! Not a single track on any video do I not enjoy!!
Perfection!
The editing on this video was amazing! I loved the dramatic shots and the peaceful music at the end!
Thank you for including the part about having to go through several iterations. The mistakes are interesting, plus it's encouraging for those of us trying to follow along at home!
lovely quote
"And i can make it bigger, and its my design, so i can make it bigger, and now its bigger."
- Ivan miranda
love your videos and go get it attitude
Your printers just get better and better. I did the exact same thing when I first built my DIY 3d printer. The first version was okay but the you start to think and build a new one. Working on v3 now. It's going to awesome.
You are, were and hopefully will continue to be crazy to make this kind of project.
Thank you !
No, thank you!
Seriously impressive. Looked like you used a 1mm nozzle which is perfect for something that size. Honestly that print looks better than anything my CR-10 has ever produced. Great job!
I almost had to close my eyes every time a shiny aluminum piece got clamped down in the vice; it's time to print some jaw guards.
I winced every time a part moved in the vice when he was drilling it. Doesn't appear to have affected the quality of the build tho.
Looks very sturdy. Maybe some Sororthane feet under the frame for vibration deafening.👍
Don't worry guys! You don't need a 3d printer for this project, you need a cnc machine instead! LOL
Anyway, keep it up Ivan!!
But you need a 3D printer to make that CNC machine so...
Ha! There might actually be a decent way to make that without a CNC or 3d Printer. Maybe just a drill some tin snips ... and a hammer! Would be an interesting project! (Edit: of course you will need a 3d printer already ... to print the hammer!)
@@ivanmirandawastaken Are you now going to make a CNC machine with your new 3D printer?
@@SG_01 he already has
@@barracuda6817 That was indeed the point ^^
Just incredible! Your skills have come a long way since the beginning and the final product is testament to your on going commitment to developing.
I'm also very envious of your workshop!
Thanks for the brilliant videos.
Now it's time for an all-metal CNC machine. Great job on the 3D printer. I find it amusing that you spent a lot of effort in making the print bead assembly as light as possible but yet the print table moves just as much and as fast as the print head.
After building a very plasticky metal "fabricator" you build a very metal-ly plastic "fabricator". I'm totally on board with this.
What an amazing craftsman - lots of love goes into that project. I’m impressed with that Hammer!
I figured it would be rigid since it's all metal! But it outperformed even what I thought the final print would look like!
very inspiring, especially seeing how your previous creation - the router was used to make this. Amazing.
That was the most PERFECT first layer
It is somewhat surprising that the platform is parallel to the x-rail without the need for calibration. Well done!
You may have to add a platform leveling function if the alignment is off later.
Thanks, Ivan. This was super fun to watch. 😃
Thanks Bryan!
Awesome! You should raise the Z-motors up a few mm so it doesn’t touch the frame. This will help against vibrations and noise.
Great build. The only thing that scares me are those wires going through those aluminum cutouts. Maybe some rubber grommets for a future upgrade?
That’s a beautiful Metal Constructed Machine, and I’m sure give a long dependable life. Thanks for sharing the build.
I love the fact that that you are masterful at what you do, a little crazy and eccentric but you also show you don't always get it right the first attempt. Great job Ivan please keep up with the videos
I would like to see the ground wire to be attached to the chassis. For safety.
the chassis is connectected to the ground through the transformer
Pretty old school thinking right there.
If power supply is properly made it would have ground connected to its case, and power supply is definitely connected to chassis.
@@bumbarabun
That's a dangerous assumption for anything coming out of China. Half the stuff Big Clive pulls apart that has an earth wire turns out to not have it connected to anything. Just an unstripped wire flapping about inside the case.
@@tin2001 yea agree, it would not hurt to have another connection to the ground.
That turned out fantastic. I would just recommend putting some grommets around your wiring where it enters the case. Would hate to have them cut
Really cool Ivan!! Pretty impressive of your CNC to cut all that aluminium reliably!
This is a very cool job, I love it !!!
Thanks!
@@ivanmirandawastaken THANKS my brother good Knewledge can you give idea how to build 3 D PRINTING MACHINE
Какие люди, я твой подписчик.
О , земляки
Yasss broo
Awesome build! Superb looking, and operating unit. Gorgeous print quality for just the second print example too.
Here's a little challenge: why not DIY anodise the plain aly CNC parts ... In black or red. THEN engrave them THROUGH the anodising into bare aly. I made a hi-fi amp front panel around 40 years ago that even today looks brand, spanking new and just as fantastic as the day it was made. I had the anodising done as a favour by a professional firm, but have my own since.
Very impressive! Thank you for sharing.
What a good spirit you have... I didn't notice it that the video was long until you mentioned it...
Hey Ivan, if you use adaptive clearing for your stepper hole, you wont have to cut and file tabs. Although it will add more CNC time.
I know that many of your followers, me included, will be waiting for the plans or files for making the aluminum/steel replacement components for your original design, so. . . when we will have them from you? Excellent work and your structural design is improving, it´s fun to follow your work and more even to build the machines.
Not sure if you did this but you should have a star-point earth with an earth post. All metalwork should be earthed since you have a mains connector close to the metal panels. Consider a filtered mains connector too.
You might have issues with warping since the print is only cooled from one side. A good shroud that redirects airflow around the nozzle will greatly help.
24:05 those writes seem a bit thin
These videos always amaze me, this looks so complex
22:08 the filament rack is impressive :D
I used to think this way building my printers. But after awhile, I have learned to embrace the plastic.
Your mass production techniques are beautiful! :) You can make 6 near perfect identical pieces at one time, where it takes me a half hour to screw up 4 of them individually. :)
Very nice job. I could imagine the base with clear acrylic and colored or color changing lights would look killer.
Gracias Iván! Un curro espectacular
Oh my this is so cool. I just hope he didn't forget any SPACERSSSSSSS. Ps. since it's full-metal, I would use DirectDrive for the extruder. That way you don't need a bowden tube and the cable management is even easier, and it improves retraction a lot.
you should probably cut some vents to those side plates, all that metal around moving parts can't be good for static elecrtricity, which can get quite expensive...
Very nice print. That bottom enclosure makes me want to mount my printer on my computer
You should try and put the height control so it adjusts to the table to auto adjust the table height. I saw it done before.
3d printing a CNC , the using to CNC to make itself all metal , then machining parts with the cnc to make a 3d printer... Big brain energy right here
Ivan
you have reached a pinnacle
this video filled me with a strange pride, like a father watching a child become an successful adult
ive been subbed to you for many years now and i cannot count the amount of times your followers (me included) have called you on dangerous and unsafe work practices
or suggested a tool after watching you do something the hard way like 10 times in a row due to humble beginnings or lack of knowledge
ive gone from watching you work in a closet and holding my breath each time you cheat death, to admiring a professional maker deploy tools with safety, precision and attention to detail
i hope you can appreciate how far you have come
time for me to go.... and make something
Awesome job..you could have made this a two part series with more details on the design and software, parts used etc.
The center pieces from the motor mounts look like they'd make great....
SPACERS!!!!
Your patience and dedication to these projects is astounding. How do you deal with the tedium? The results seem so worth it!
What is that wierd tool that looks like a wooden stick with a metal clump at the end called? You used it several times in this video. Is is some kind of screwdriver handle replacement?
I don't know the name, I found it
Ain’t it just called a screwdriver
Do you have a timestamp or two for when Ivan used it? (That will help narrow down exactly which tool you're referring to.)
@@im.empimp 17:05 it's that strange wooden stick with a piece of metal attached to it, never seen one of those before
@@malloott Sorry, but in this time normal flat screwdriver is used as chissel to remove inner circle after milling.
What an interesting setup for the bed! I guess it's heavy enough to not need any bottom retaining wheels
Why would you be sorry for a long video that is well created and actually shows something happening with just about every minute? Amazing video!!! If only I can get my current printers to print as nice as yours.
Indeed, it is a long long time you don't use your "magic" Hammer that someone might be tempted to call it a screwdriver!
However, nice work Ivan!
beautiful hammer ;) . The ones we use look like screwdrivers too ;) ;) ;)
Very nicely done, Ivan!
As a side note: The 2nd song in this video reminds me a lot of Policy of Truth by Depeche Mode. It has a very similar melody/timing/chord progression.
Hammer... yeah right! Everybody knew it was going to be a..... HAMMER!
Very cool project!
Another great video, I highly recommend not using your calipers as a scribe though (3:30). Each time you do this, they become slightly less accurate. I know it's often annoying to grab a scribe when the caliper seems to work, and you probably have enough youtube money to buy another pair of calipers regularly, but it's still a good habit to have.
The all metal construction will make it really sturdy even though it's probably not necessary. It feels a lot better going together then a 3d printed one though.
I would suggest you to build some kind of bent metal 'L' for the bed wheels to keep dust away or the rails will get nasty real quick
You should sell it commercially as a kit! It 👀 rock solid!! I bet it would sell really well.
Legends say that the tie wrap at 25:12 is still uncut...
Damn this is engineering, home-made CNC to make a metal printer, absolutely awesome!
I think its time to replace that IKEA drill. :)
I think it so... it saddens me... but it is true
@@ivanmirandawastaken you can frame it and hang it from the wall
No! Why! Why!!!
when a CNC and an FDM love each other very much....
skynet is coming, the machines can make themselves, humanity is a resource rival
I don't think ive ever seen a 3d printer built as solidly as that...
Ivan, you blow me away. Not only an excellent project but an outstanding vid.
Awesome, great result, worth the wait!
This is still one og my favourite UA-cam channels !!! Great work as always ☺️👍
Great video and build as always! I did find myself skipping to all the parts where it's you talking about the build because of the length of the video this time and because you're a great entertainer who I come to see, besides the crazy builds. Also very glad to see some red at the end ;)
You done an excellent job , well done. any chance of plans for all the parts. The one thing I would change is to add a set of wheels that run on the opposite side of the rail that the table wheels run on, this is to prevent the table lifting up, especially when printing tall top heavy objects...really needs to lock that table in position.
Very nice work. Your first upgrade should be to convert it to beltless.
Next as an upgrade for the printer mill all the parts out of carbon fiber except for the extruded aluminum. That way it can be extremely light.
The video is awesome keep up the great work. The time lapses were amazing
BRILLIANT!!!!! Keep creating Ivan!!!!!!
On your cnc you should use ballscrew for z axis it should drastically reduce your error
Brilliant, Ivan. Seriously.
"if it looks bigger its because i found this and it lets it be bigger" Thats my kind of craftsman
Sir, you are truly a brilliant inventor!
Nice, I made a wood frame to print up to 380mm and probably I'll change it to print up to 800mm. Good idea for the bottom box. 😎
that skill omg and dedication. i wish i could even build a lego set.
I see your never-ending quest to consume all the red filament in the world is going well!
You should do a big aluminium/lead casting of the hammer!
If I could just make a suggestion on your next build. No music, or very low volume music. I like the tooling sounds better.
I am thinking of making one too. Nice job.
Man Ivan, I've been watching you for a while and your machining skills/tools have really improved.
That's super awesome! I recently built a railcore ii. (It might not be my design, but I did build it from scratch) I'd be interested to see how they compare.
You are having fun with your CNC Ivan!
Nice build!
However, a bit disappointed with the lack of SPAAACCCCEEERRRRSSSS 😁
I always enjoy watching your videos! Keep up the great work!
what a cool project! to make it look better, you could aluminum anodizing a try!
Great printer! You made it super sturdy👌
Ivan: I'd like to keep the carriage light and simple..
also Ivan: [proceeds to put together a very overengineered 28+ parts carriage]
:)