Ryobi 48v Battery Swap - Load the batteries and install new battery meter
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- Опубліковано 16 жов 2024
- Ryobi Zero Turn ZT480ex 48v 42" 100AH
Battery swap to Lithium; LiFePO4.
Third of a few videos detail the battery swap, wire, and replace battery meter.
This video details the install of the new Chins batteries and the new battery meter.
2023 07 27 update: With this new battery life meter/gage, you will lose the "hour" function. I'm thinking about plugging in my old meter to track hours.
The first video details the purchased components and the modification to the Ryobi charger port:
• Ryobi 48v Battery Swap...
The second video shows removing the old batteries, and building the table/box to support the battery tray:
• Ryobi 48v Battery Swap...
Just wanted to say thanks. Converted mine today with the help of your videos.
Thanks for letting me know. The swap must have gone well!
I converted my RY48ZTR75 in the same way using 4 12V 100AH LifePO4 DJLBERMPW brand batteries and the same meter. Balanced and charged the batteries. Everything went fine. I even have the same charger. Works great and your videos were very helpful!!!
Thanks! Glad it worked for you.
My videos are painfully long, but I wanted to share the good and the bad. It was certainly a satisfying project.
Thanks for the helpful video. Converted the batteries yesterday. It was easy to get to the batteries following this video. Now to get a pre-charging unit to test the conversion. I am using CHIN's BMS batteries so that needs the pre-charging kit. Pay attention to the way the back panel is installed back at 36:45 it slides up after the hooks are in. That means to remove the back panel (after removing the 4 screws) is to tug the top out then push it down. Otherwise you risk breaking the hooks at the bottom. I've decided to use the old gauge as is. I don't usually refer to it if I can mow t2.5 acres in one go. I will think about having individual charging ports for each battery if I ever need to charge each battery separately. After the conversion, I realize I can pull the tray in and out within 10 mins so it is no hardship if I want to do that in the future. Thanks, Rob!
Next to try is the mod to the charging handle. Without the charger plugged in, there was no voltage at the top pin and the impedance was about 12.12K ohms. When the charger is plugged in, it was 3V when fully charged and fluctuates when the led is blinking, so am guessing, if I feed in about 3V to that pin, it will not fry the charging port. :-) Then again, the safety feature of disabling the power when the plug is in is to you don't drive away with the charger handle plugged in ... so my easy solution is to put the charger on the seat. That way, I will know to remove it before starting the mower. 0 cost solution.
Frying a charging port is pretty exciting, but I don't recommend that for anyone.
Removing the back panel is a little tricky, as you noted. I think I did a better job of explaining it in later videos.
I agree and THANK YOU. One quick note, I used the OEM plug in the new charger. 4 screws hold them together and the 3 pins interchange. The new cord only uses 2 wires and the 3rd pin is a nice uncrimped spare 😁👍
I never actually checked the interchangeability of the OEM pins/plug. But, good to know.
I have picture of the insides but don't know how to post them. But I have interchanged them and charging now. All thanks to you 😁👍. This is a safer option rather than breaking off the internal tabs on the socket
Ron: I did this today. Worked perfectly. I even swapped out the charging handle. Thanks so much for making this video. Ryobi is not helpful at all and I am done buying Lead acid batteries. I bought my Lipo 100 AH on a " fathers day sale" charger and new gauge.
Good for you! Glad it worked out for you!
Thank you for this guide. I watched your various videos a million times! It took me quite a while, a little bit each day, but I've got the new battery and meter installed, everything put back together and I mowed my lawn! The hardest part was all the connections, getting them back together. I am still confused about setting the parameters of the TR16H meter - the directions say "set the meter to zero capacity after fully discharging" but my understanding is that it is not good for the LifFePO4 battery to fully discharge it.
Thanks! I'm glad to hear it worked for you!
The meter still confuses me. I'm still having issues. I'm not an expert...
But, I believe when you fully "discharge" the batteries, that doesn't really happen. I think the battery BMS will disconnect the batteries, to protect them.
I did it once on video; the mower, blades and meter stopped dead. I plugged the charger in for a few minutes, then set the meter to Zero.
@@robertveldman1901 Thanks for getting back to me. I will go home and look at the charger - is that where I can "discharge" the batteries from? I have other people I can ask. You have a very tidy garage!
@@donnacohn2454 HaHa! Thanks... it's not that tidy!
I discharged mine by mowing. It quit in the middle of my front yard. I had to run a couple long extension cords out there.
I'm sure there are other ways to slowly discharge the batteries.
Thank you SIR!
I connected my gauge to have a constant power input and it is EXTREMELY energy efficient. At first I was worried that it would drain too much of the battery just being on all the time, but even after a full week of being on, not even a hundredth of a volt was lost. It stays on all the time and the light comes on when it notices energy going into or out of the battery above a certain threshold. So for anyone else who is doing this conversion (which I highly recommend!), and don't want to deal with extra wiring, etc, I would say that you can bypass the gauge switch and not worry too much.
That is interesting. I could see that it would work as well as you said.
@@robertveldman1901It makes sense if you think about it too, because an LCD watch can run for years with a constantly displaying screen with just a tiny button cell battery.
@@JustWasted3HoursHere So true.
You saying that you did all the same conversion and did not replace the Original Battery Reading Meter and rest you follow the Charging instruction done by robert using Lithium Special charger. We dont have to Worry about Gauge/ Meter. If thats the case i want to do mine also cause Gauge is confusing. Also did you prefer using 1 single battery 48v or like Robert used 4 . 100ah which brand as he used Chins. Please advice because mine mower battery dye in 25 minute and leaf collection is coming up.
Thank you! 🎉 Super helpful - got it done!
and thank you!
Great sharing my friend
Thanks!
Great video series! I followed the instructions and everything worked well, except for one issue... My low speed cut and the associated blue light around the button don't appear to work properly. When installing the battery meter, I used the green wire to power it, but I didn't install a jumper in the plug as a "bypass" for the old gauge. Could that be the issue?
When I select low-speed cut, there is a slight change in the speed of the blades (no light though) and I see a corresponding reduction in the amount of amps being used, but it is only about 1.5A of difference. This isn't a big deal because I don't use low-speed very often, but I'd prefer to fix it if you have any tips.
Sorry. No ideas what could be wrong. I never run low speed blades, but I'll check it next time.
I as well did this swap and am very satisfied and grateful for your guidance. Thank you. I bought the same charger that you have. Is there a “best” setting to charge the battery? 5A, 8A, or 13A? Thanks again.
Good for you!
I've used them all. But generally. I use 5A, for no specific reason..
Thank you.
What kind of acreage do you expect to mow after doing the swap? I only have 1 acre and may help some neighbors with their lawn care probably 3 acres. Do you think 2 of these batteries would be enough or is 4 really necessary?
You need some combination of 48v, and for most of us the simplest solution is four 12v 100ah batteries.
I have a 1 acre lot and I can do about 2.5 acres on one charge. (I did a video on that) So. I think you would have to break it up into 2 mows.
@@robertveldman1901 thank you!
What is the wire attached to the positive terminal on the rear most battery with the white clip that clips on under the very top/back of the battery compartment?
I'm not sure what it does, but it's connected to the charging port.
Hi Rob - thank you for your video. I have a 54" ryobi and I followed this step by step and I am very happy! Question - regarding the meter - I set the amp value and when the batterieds were charged, I set the % to 100. I took it out and rode in till it was down to roughly 70%, and when I plugged it in to charge it, the charger still shows it's full. Any ideas?
I'm still having trouble understanding my new meter, and it's been a year!
You have the Lithium charger?
But, to run the mower for awhile, then the charger says FUL ? I haven't heard that one.
When mine is unplugged, it says OFF.
When it's completed charging, it says FUL.
When I plug it back in after it was completed charging, it tries to charge some more.
So, I can't understand a situation where you plug it in and it says FUL, unless it finished charging again.
What is the battery voltage on the meter? According to the CHINs battery manual, full charge should be 53-6-55.2v
I'm sorry...I have no ideas.
@@robertveldman1901 Thanks for your quick response. Yes, I bought the lithium charger you recommended, and made the subtle change inside the port, so the connector would fit. The voltage reads 52.71. Not sure, I will keep playing around. Thanks again.
Hopefully to close the loop here - I unplugged the charger, and toggled it back to 36 to and again to 48 and plugged it in again and the mower started charging... maybe just a glitch. Thanks again for your videos!
@@gregknight2091 Thank goodness!
It seems like 1 48v battery would be best to eliminate charging issues, and it would be easier to remove in the winter to store indoors.
A single 48v battery certainly seems to make sense. But, there are some conversion issues with that. The most obvious is you'll need to customize a hold down system; the long center hold down bolt cannot be used.
So, I decided to use 12v batteries that were the same physical size.
Great video Rob, I just did a battery swap yesterday. Rob, do you know if there are any issues or problems using the lead/acid battery charger that came with the mower when charging lithium batteries?
Everything I read says to use a charger specifically for LiFePo4. The charger I got has a specific setting for either type of battery, so there must be a reason. I just can't remember what the problem was, but it was scary enough to get a new charger. Plus my new charger has a plug that (almost) fits the mower socket.
I have one question. I swaped out to lithium batters. Everything worked out great. The mower ran like a top. The next day nothing worked. The batteries are fully charged. No power to the controls. Do you have any idea what went wrong
I've heard of people having trouble after the swap. My friend Jesse had a similar problem. He needed to unplug and replug the battery pack and it would start again. We recently added a pre-charge/soft start circuit that seemed to fix the problem.
This guy sells a couple different kits to pre-charge or soft start the mower. There is also a link to his Facebook group: www.youtube.com/@Ryobi48vElectricMowers/videos?view=0&sort=dd&shelf_id=1
I put in the AlLi monitor in and put it on the switch as in this video but after I charge it, it shows the % when I turned it off... I have a feeling it needs to see the charge?
Sorry, I'm not sure what you mean.
Seeing cheaper LiFePO4 battery options on Amazon. Are there any specific attributes for these other batteries I should try to avoid?
Sorry, I'm really not an expert at this stuff. There are some UA-cam channels that discuss different Lithium batteries, such as;
www.youtube.com/@WillProwse
My focus was on cheap and physical size. I just checked at Walmart, and "my" batteries are down to $1000 for 4;
www.walmart.com/ip/CHINS-12V-100AH-LiFePO4-Lithium-Iron-Battery-100A-BMS-for-RV/1029813425
(Don't forget to consider cold storage req'ts)
Hi Rob
I have a question which I hope you can assist me with,
I have spent a lot of time trying to figure out the problem for why the blades on my ZT480E stops spinning just about 10 minutes from mowing !
There was some plastic rope stuck in one of the blades motor and I succeeded to remove it after some struggling..
But am still having same issue knowing that I did resistance test on the blade motor connectors and everything thing looks fine.. I appreciate any advice
I'm glad you mentioned the rope and the resistance test. The Ryobi electric blade motors appear to be fairly sensitive to high torque and shuts the blades down. I'm going to guess that there is still some rope caught up on the shaft?, or there was some damage to the blade motor bearing that heats up.
I've never tried to run my mower with a blade mower unplugged... but you could try that to see if the good motor keeps running. Unfortunately, I'll bet that the motor controller will sense this, and not operate at all.
It looks like those deck motors are over $300, so that's not a cheap option to just try, but you may not have a choice. Let me know if you figure it out.
Hey there! First off- thank you for a great video series. Will be converting my mower as soon as the parts get in.
Secondly, if I didn't care about the battery meter. Would it be possible to skip that? If I just used the battery charger to see how full the batteries were, could we not worry about installing the meter?
The meter upgrade is not really necessary. You could always add it later. The new meter will be more accurate to determine when your batteries will die.
And you are aware that you may need a pre-charge kit? That kit is something a bunch of us learned about after the fact.
With Lead acid, the mower would kill the blades when the batteries were low. With Lithium, everything will just shut down, and you'll need to pull/tow it back, or run your charger out there with your charger (like I did).
I can easily mow my yard twice, so charge level is not important to me.
Good Luck!
@@robertveldman1901 What do you mean by "pre-charge kit". Do you have an example?
I switched my golf cart from lead acid to Lithium a couple years ago, so I'm familiar with the "lag" lead acid gets before it dies and lithium will just go until they are dead.
My yard is less than half and acre so I dont foresee it turning thru 100ah in a go. At least i hope!
@@leegiles2565 My swap went great, and at half an acre, you're not going to have any life issues.
Some of the Ryobi mowers don't "start" after the swap. You turn the key on, and the main solenoid clicks, and immediately "unclicks". There is a guy that sells two different "pre-charge" kits. You can see his install video at: ua-cam.com/video/jNEGhhh3dMo/v-deo.html
He has a Facebook link with more info; Facebook group. Look up - "Ryobi 48v Riding Mowers group"
It looks like some of the mowers are sensitive to the initial power surge when the key is turned on. The kit slows down the surge with a resistor.
If you have this no start issue, try unplugging and replug the big grey battery plug. That may reset the mower to start.
@@leegiles2565 and here's a link to Greg and his precharge circuit
facebook.com/groups/2756962307675482/search/?q=precharge%20circuit
@@robertveldman1901 Awesome! Thanks again for the info, Rob
Hello Rob, how are you hope fine, thanks for all your video, do i need to keep the lithium battery on charger doing the winter?
Charlie,
That's a good question. I'm not sure of the answer. And I'm sure it depends on how cold it gets.
I don't think it is necessary to leave the charger connected. And the manual says not to charge below 32F.
I plan to leave my fully charged mower disconnected from the charger for the lower Michigan winter.
According to the Chins battery manual:
- Battery storage temp: 14F to 122F
- Charging temperature: 32F to 122F
- Discharge temperature: -4F to 140F
- If storage time exceeds 6mos, discharge battery to 5%, then fully charge.
Rob
HELP ... put lithium batteries in my 30" Ryobi ran good ,then had to change out the charging port ,Watching one of your videos on how to do that...THANK YOU ... NOW I am showing only 42 VOLTS on my original meter. and the mower runs for about 20 minutes then is completely drained of power... ANY suggestions on what to check ...? thanks (08/18/24)
Ouch! I would start by checking the voltage of each battery. If you have a low battery, you can try to charge that individual battery with a 12v Lithium charger, or you'll need to replace that battery.
@@robertveldman1901 Plan on checking battery (s) . will update…. Thanks.
What's the disadvantage to leaving the old battery meter in place after the switch from lead acid to lifep04 batteries? I did my battery swap today and everything went well, mower turns on, the house did not blow up.
HaHa! Good for you! That's always good, when nothing blows up.
I've had and seen other comments about using the old meter. If I would have known what I know now, I think I would have continued using the old gage.
The new gage is cheap, and does have additional functions, and is probably better at estimating lifepo4 battery life when correctly set-up. But, it can always be added later. I would recommend considering adding the new gage to the plastic side panel, like I did in another video.
@@robertveldman1901 Thanks! Your videos were very helpful. I haven't taken any physics or chemistry class in > 17 years and I'm no engineer so I was a bit skeptical of my ability to pull this off especially after seeing all the weird electrical drawings on the battery manual that I didn't understand. I just carefully took pictures of everything as I disassembled them and put it all back together, same as I found it. I also added a Brinly-Hardy-Front-Mount-Snow-Plow for RYOBI so now It's ready for all seasons. I was able to swap out the plug for the lifep04 battery smart charger with the plug of my old lead acid battery charger that came with the mower so that the new charger could fit in the back of my RYOBI but i didn't get around to setting up the green light yet. It seems that will require some soldiering skills which is currently above my paygrade but probably not for long.
@TheMrmoc7
I'm glad to hear it worked out for you. I had to learn quite a bit about LiFePo4 batteries before and during my conversion.
I've been soldering most of my life. And while I'm not that good at it, I'm not afraid of it. (small electronic soldering is scary for me!)
If you're setting up for a plow, and live in a cold climate, make sure you you read up on Lithium batteries and cold storage and cold charging.
Rob, thanks a lot for your video. I just followed your instruction and replace my Ryobi battery. Your detailed explanation saved me hours of time and tons of frustration for sure.
I had one "small issue". I think I purchased the wrong batter meter. I got the 100AH battery set; however I bought the 80V 50A battery meter instead of 80V 100A by mistake. Now the charger says the battery is full; however the meter reports 50%. Is it related with the wrong meter type?
Can I continue to use the current setup and treat 50% as full? Or I should replace the meter?
If I need to replace the meter, can I just replace the digital control / display part and not change the part connected to the battery? Replacing the part connected to the battery will require some work.
Sorry for all the questions. And thank you again for the amazing video.
Good for you on your swap!
Well, I'm not an electrical expert, but I think the reason for the 100A meter system is that the mower can draw up to 70a or so? I don't know if you risk damaging the "bridge" at the battery and/or the meter. I recommend getting the "correct" meter and bridge and replace both components..
Did you follow the instructions to set-up the meter for 100%? I recall; with a fully charged battery, you need to set the gage to "%", then press and hold "%" button for a few seconds until it changes to 100%.
Setting the 0% level is a bit more complicated. But you need to follow the instructions.
@@robertveldman1901 thanks for the quick reply. I will order the right AH meter. I will also contact the vendor to see whether the part connected to the batter set is the same. Hopefully it might save me trouble of pull the battery out again 🤌
@@JustMeBlogs At least you don't have to pull the batteries out all the way...
Thanks, @@robertveldman1901. I chatted with the vendor. They told me the bridge is the same between the 50A and the 100A. I order the correct product and will only need to replace the meter; not the bridge. That is a huge relief. With the new battery (it is very light compared with the original led based one), I guess I need to get used to the move on the small slopes. It is weight center will be higher :)
Thanks again, Rob.
@@JustMeBlogs That is good news!
Robert, Look for the small (18 ga) BLUE wire that must be reconnected to the charge port. It has a thermistor that allows the relay to close the power loop.
could you please be a little more clearer on where I should find the BLUE WIRE & THE CHARGE PORT. I have no power at all when turning the on key. I have a Ryobi 300e model with FOUR lithium batteries 12 V 50 AH. thanks for replying .Ray
I did find those areas ,everything is connected properly
Hi Rob, I did the conversion on my 54 inch and changed out the meter and bought and used the charger you mentioned. I have used the set up now for about 6 times and it delivers about twice the mowing time of my old lead batteries. Now though, the mower clicks and shuts down when I try to use it. The only way to get it to come back on is for me to plug the mower into the battery charger for a minute or 2, then the mower clicks and starts up again until I put load on it (drive it). At that point it clicks and goes dead again. I looked at the wiring (looks good), I used a hand meter to check to ensure the voltage is good (its 51V). I believe the clicking noise is coming from what I think is a solenoid that is located by back wheel well. Has anyone had this problem and does anyone have a solution?
That's new to me. You may have better luck finding help at a forum. For example:
www.reddit.com/r/ryobi/
There is a solenoid on the "passenger" side. The side panel is pretty easy to remove to gain access.
Of course, it doesn't mean the solenoid is bad.
I have heard of key switches going bad. People switch the wires to the AUX side of the switch.
Good luck!
@@robertveldman1901 Thanks Rob. I actually bypassed the key switch and I have the same issue. Also dug deeper, its not a solenoid but a relay. It triggers the 48V circuit. I was thinking about bypassing it just to see if it solves it (then I can get a new relay). Appreciate your reply and suggestion about reddit. Also I find your videos were very helpful in the conversion. I am more a mechanical person that electrical, so having your videos made it a step by step project that I could follow easily. Thanks again!
@@tomd1961 Thanks and good luck!
@@robertveldman1901 I enjoyed watching your videos and was about to pull the trigger on the replacement LiFePO4 batteries and realized some folks having issues. I have the 54 inch deck model. Then realized the 54 inch deck is 48v 115ah, not 100ah. Replacement AGM batteries are the 115ah version as well. Curious, is there any LiFePO4 115ah or what’s your thoughts? I’m mainly seeing 100ah and a few 120ah. Nothing specifically 115ah. Any insights would be appreciated, thx!
@@ZbellyTube Yes, I believe all the 54s are 115aH. I took a brief search for 115/120aH batteries. Pretty limited and expensive results. You may have to consider using 100aH batteries. Or see if you can find a 48v battery that will fit.
Maybe check with tomd1961 and see what he used.
I tried this and when I plug in the charger it jumps straight to full. Any suggestions as to why this may be happening?
Thanks
Did you check the batteries with a volt gage? Are you sure the charger is set on 48v and not 36v?
Thanks for your prompt response. The voltages were 52.78-53.
Upon further investigation, the batteries that were shipped were 160A. I wonder if that could be the problem.
@@CPHRCPHR That could be. I didn't know they come at 160A.
Neither did I. I’ll keep you posted on what I find out
Just did the swap and when I connected the batteries the voltage went from 53volts down to 3 and no power. Am I missing something
Sounds like a bad connection somewhere? Check to make sure the big plug from the battery pack to the mower is completely seated, Did you check the voltage with a handheld volt meter?
Will do can you recommend a charger
@@Standupyouth I like the charger I bought because it plugs into the existing charging port with a slight modification.
HTRC 48V Golf cart battery charger 13-Amp Smart Charger, LiFePO4,for EZGO RXV & TXT,Car, Boat..
$155.99 Amazon free shipping
www.amazon.com/dp/B0BZY6N951/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?pd_rd_i=B0BZY6N951&pd_rd_w=NKmWi&content-id=amzn1.sym.386c274b-4bfe-4421-9052-a1a56db557ab&pf_rd_p=386c274b-4bfe-4421-9052-a1a56db557ab&pf_rd_r=AH86NNP02WKSVZ7AQARX&pd_rd_wg=tCfYe&pd_rd_r=2ec605bf-0175-487d-a976-a5463f720e7b&s=electronics&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1
Great video. Who is the manufacturer, model number etc. of the voltage gauge? Where can I buy one?
Thank you.
The components and battery meter are detailed in the components video linked in my video description.
A few people have commented that they didn't get the gage. They just got the batteries and charger.
The gage is available from a few different sources, but, I got mine from AliExpress:
DC 8-80V 100A TR16 Battery Coulomb Meter Capacity
$24 AliExpress free shipping plus tax
www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805170271326.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.323e1802JWJmXk&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
Let me know if that link works for you.
Thank you.@@robertveldman1901
Hello, after looking at the link that you provided I see that the site offers three different gauges. Which one did you use?
Thank you.
@@debbiegardner-pope4576
80v 100a
Thank you for the quick reply.@@robertveldman1901
I have 48v 54in version of the mower. Curious, you didn't have the problem I'm currently troubleshooting which is as soon as i turned the key on my mower it went on and immediately shut off as if it detected some over amperage condition. I'm running the litime 100ah batteries with bms. Any ideas?
Sorry, no, I didn't have that troubleshooting issue.
All my wiring was connected the same as original, except to unplug the old gage, and use the switched power from the old gage to power the new gage/shunt/sampler.
When you say the "mower" went on... do you mean the blade motors? The drive motors are ok?
Did you check the voltage on the batteries? Did you charge them up? My batteries, as-delivered, had a very low charge/voltage.
I know that when my old batteries would get really low, the mower would detect that, and shut off the blades. The drive motors would run OK; to get you back to your charger.
Aside from the battery swap... my blades would shut off randomly. Sometimes I would be OK after turning the big red button off, then on. Sometimes, I'd have to pull the front cover off and wiggle the wires around the blade slave control module. Over 2.5 years, this has happened 15-20 times(?).
Hi Robert, thanks for the excellent video. Quick question: do I have to install/use new meter after replacing with lifepo4 new batteries. Can I just use the original meter?
I just swapped the batteries and charged new lifepo4, keep everything else the same, but mower won't turn on. Appreciate the help!
@worldpeace3221 I know you're asking Robert, but I'm pretty sure you'll have to use a new battery gauge. The one for the old SLA batteries is set up to meter voltage as a percentage and display accordingly. Because lithium, particularly the lifepo4 configuration, has almost a flat voltage curve, the batteries would read 100% until they just died suddenly. To your other question of the mower not running, I think that is independent of the meter. What exactly happens? Is it like what I described above in my original comment? You turn the key and the mower clicks and nothing happens? If so, depending on your model mower and type of battery selected, then you could be experiencing the in-rush/surge current issue, and it's tripping the BMS on your batteries. The surge current on some of these mowers is 350ish amps but only occurs for microseconds or shorter, but if the BMS is well designed, it might pick that up and shut off the batteries. If that's the case you kind of have two options 1) find a battery with a bms that can handle it, or 2) add a precharge circuit.
@@worldpeace3221
World, I believe another commenter in one of my videos mentioned that he kept the old meter, and it worked.
But did you get a new charger? I understand that you need a different charger for Lithium batteries.
Did you check the voltage of the batteries? Make sure you have +48v at the batteries.
If you upset the BMS inside the battery with over-voltage, the BMS may have disconnected one or more batteries. Then you need to follow the battery instructions to reconnect.. I'm guessing. (The same is true for low voltage conditions.)
If you open up the instrument panel, and turn on the key, you should have +48v at the gage.
I'm actually thinking about reconnecting my old gage and leave it under the instrument panel, to keep track of hours.
@@kwill2009 Many thanks for your kind response. Although I have limited knowledge of batteries, everything you say makes perfect sense to me.
1. For meter, I will monitor the original meter as you mentioned, if it does not change after an hour mowing, I will have to take time to install the new meter.
2. For batteries, I turned the key, mower clicked and then nothing happened. However, when I disconnect/reconnect anderson connectors, sometimes it worked and if I lefe the key in, I can turn it on many times, but if I pulled out the key, it may not connect again. When it was on, everything worked including the blade, which I think proves your theory about BMS. I googled pre-charge circuit, but it looks like a DIY setup, I would appreciate if you have one that you can share. Again, thanks for your help!
Bạn chia sẽ video hay quá
thanks!
I Could've Screwd The Bolt In
Without Cutting The Plastic Strap
That could work.