Thank you! Very helpful and very interesting. I have been running fully synthetic 15W 50 in my 2005 iron barrel. So far so good. But I didn't realise you should take that side cover off that's above the oil pumps when you do an oil change. Thanks again 🙏
Excellent explanation, well done on highlighting the problem for us here in the UK. Interestingly my 2003 made (2004 registered) 500 has the feed to the pipe for the rockers up next to the chest cover similar to your 350. Its now done 12k miles and there is no obvious wear on the pump worm drive. Being a fair weather rider I stop in November and don't ride until spring, so in my case the problem is unlikely to surface. Really enjoyed this one 👍.
Some years ago I aquired a 1980 350 Bullet grey import. It only had 4000km on the clock. Always used 10-40's car oil in it all year round. Never had any problems apart from oil bleeding through a porous cylinder head casting. One of the odd things about this bike was that the 6v. double filament stop/tail lamp had in - line pins and could therefore be fitted either way round...I've never seen the like either before or since, but Hitchcocks carried spare bulbs for it...amazing! Sold the bike eventually with many many more miles on it...10-40's car oil all year round proving to be just fine.
@keithpearson7539 That's interesting about the bulbs! Car oil is just fine for the old Bullets as you are not running the clutch in it! It's a good bit cheaper too!
The later India built bullets had a pressure relief valve in the crankshaft....... So did some Redditch ones... It's a ball valve mechanism in the end of the shaft...
Yes I am.....I have one made in India....ask Paul Henshaw ,he has seen them too... Not my favourite idea,for obvious reasons...the screw in one is best...I think. The crankshaft is from cast iron type bullet.
@@geoffreybennett2457 If you are talking about the later Redditch Bullets, yes they had a pressure relief valve in the timing side mainshaft. My 2005 and 2002 Indian 500;s do not, nor does the 2007 350! This is a new one on me as I haven't come across it before 0n an Indian cast iron Bullet!
Good video , I did know about the pressure relief valve and was going to write something, but then you pointed out the difference between the Redditch and the later Indian made Bullets . Here in Canada the temperature change is more dramatic and you should see how 20/50 flows at -30c [ it doesn't ]. I was advised by a guy who raced Triumphs in moto cross to always use 10/40 semi synthetic and not 20/50 . When you think about it , oil flow is more important than pressure and at operating temperature oil is as thin as water anyway . Living through Canadian winters has highlighted the huge benefit of synthetic oil , it will flow when mineral oil will not and even during mild weather it will be pumped around the engine faster at start up .Synthetic oil also clings to surfaces better when the engine is not running . Once they are run in , all my bikes have synthetic oil in them . Why some people think that Classic bikes should have old style mongrade oils is mystery to me . I suppose a person could light a fire under the bike to get the oil and engine warmed up in winter . [ I have done that to truck and tractor ] [ I only ever had one vehicle go up in flames ! ]
Ha ha - I remember disconnecting the electric fuel pump feed on my 1960 Land Rover at Aviemore fifty years ago when the temperature was - 20c. I collected about two egg cup fulls of petrol in an old tin can and lit it under the inlet manifold. Once warmed up, I could start the Land Rover easily enough with the crank handle. I then towed numerous non running cars around the camp site to start them.
In my experience synthetic oils do not cling to surfaces as well as conventional mineral oils and this is one of the reasons they are not generally recommended for older pushrod type engines this is a well known problem and additives have been developed by companies such as Wynnes and Miller to help overcome this problem, however in the case of these Royal Enfield engines this isn't likely to be a major problem as the timing cover should always contain enough oil to prevent the cams and tappets from having a dry unlubricated start after being left standing for any period of time I would certainly never recommend this type of oil for a British twin cylinder engine though as their camshafts usually hang in space and these oils will run off of them completely when left standing for any period of time resulting in a dry start and consequently rapid wear.
I first learned about Royal Enfield in the early 2000s, and wanted one. But, things happened, and I never got around to getting one until 2013. By then of course the original Royal Enfield Bullet was gone. I bought a new 2013 B5 Bullet 500 with the UCE engine. The first things I did within a couple weeks of buying it were to replace the horrific EFI with an Amal Concentric Mk1 carburetor, using a kit from Hitchcocks. I also replaced the huge heavy cat con exhaust with a much smaller, lighter non cat con exhaust, also from Hitchcocks. It ran 10 times better. I have put 23,000 miles on it so far, with no serious issues, but quite a few small problems. I still want an iron barrel Bullet, but have been unable to find one anywhere near where I live. I have always used 20w50 oil in all my motorcycles for decades. I'm in Arizona, U.S., where the temperature in the summer is 110-112 degrees F (44 degrees C) and it never gets below freezing, even in what we laughingly call winter.
Canadian here. I've found running 10w40 or even 5w30 instead of 20w50 during colder weather makes sense. You can hear the difference in the valve train when switching to lighter oil when temperatures drop on cold mornings.
Mine for 30 years .. runs well , starts first kick .. daily driver . The thing is ..they were designed in 1930 by Taylor.. with a pen and and a bit of paper.. i come alond a few years later and check with a computer.....not an once of fat on those numbers ... Seriously impressed with those old time engineers ... And yes you are correct about that oil pump shaft ..even if you run a larger oil pump you will stress that worm drive and it will shear ..or wear quickly 😅.. mine is modified with needle roller rocker block bearings ... Modified clutch arm ( greater lift) just been out in the cold and thwing out as i write this
Got the same model 350,from 2007,the last year I think. I bought it in 2011,done 10k kilometres on it,apart from a head gasket haven't touched it other than maintainance. Love the wee thing so I keep it shiney. Had a UCE 500,not so keen on it,fuel injection was horrible,constantly hunting at a steady throttle position. For oil I just use Halfords 10/40 car oil,same in the primary case,never had an issue. When I change my oil,I take the sparkplug out,loosen one of the banjo bolts at the top end and kick it over till oil seeps out of the banjo bolt. I'm hoping that primes all the passageways before I run the bike. Great videos,I went back and watched your 350 riding video,brilliant. You've a new subscriber.
@k1ckyscotland988 Many thanks for subscribing! The latest 350 I have seen was 2009, I know that production of the iron Bullets officially ended in 2008, so the 2009 one must have been one that was stuck in a showroom somewhere. They are a great little bike IMHO, full of charm and character!
I bought a 350 Bullet , brand new in 2008 in trials trim . It’s still in regular use , the only mods have been , an Amal Concentric, Boyer in place of the points , and a low level exhaust. It’s very reliable , I use 20 - 50 Silkolene , but I’ll bear in mind to warm up the engine before setting out on very cold days , I don’t want to damage the oil pump etc . and have to take the engine apart . If it ain’t broken don’t fix it , I’ve found to my cost in the past ! Thanks for an interesting channel ……sorry you’re giving it up . Cheers😊 DaveH Lancashire ..
Excellent information keep it up, i have 8 Royal Enfield's and non of the cast iron barrel examples yet but it is just a matter of time i hope. Love your channel. Lester Gold coast Australia.
Brilliant explanation of how the oil system works, really interesting . Yes l usually run 10/W40 synthetic in both my Classic 500 and Bullet trials bike, Love your videos, would never be without a RE...🙂
Super video. A mate of mine had a big end failure in Framlingham Norfolk and some place local replaced the big end but did not clean out the white metal that had migrated to and blocked the rocker blocks. The new big end failed in very short order and they fitted another new big end, not investigating or realising the cause and the bike got as far as Newmarket and came to a halt and was recovered here to the Isle of Man. How it got that far is beyond me.The bike, luckily, kept blowing the oil pump gasket and did not strip the worm. The oilways in the blocks were blocked solid. You could not make it up could you?
hitchcocks do an oil pressure relief valve that diverts the oil into the pushrod adjustment chamber to help with the models where it has been deleted.👍
When you remove the oil drain bolts the timing chest oil will drain completely without removing the cover,I always fill the timing chest with fresh oil through the tappet adjuster cover,
@@martytoal6547 So you never check the oil pump drive shaft doing it that way nor can you fill the filter chamber. The timing chest will not drain by removing just the drain plugs. it can't, as the only way for the oil to get out of there is through the oil return hole to the tank.
@@martytoal6547 It will, but not completely. You still won't be able to check the condition of the oil pump drive shaft or fill the filter chamber by not removing the timing cover nor will you be able to see if there are any shavings from the oil pump drive gears as they will be at the bottom of the chamber.
What the heck happened? I was starting to go through your vlogs and the whole lot disappeared, at least you’re back Mr Brown I’m glad to say, the vlog I’ve just watched was from 2 months ago but only appeared yesterday 🤔
Thank You for the video. Much appreciated. Even so we don't have this kind of cold winters over here in Cyprus I finally fully understand the oil circuit . Thx again & safe riding !!!
I'm not a really tecnical fellar but I still enjoyed your video. I have to say, for all their faults, those engines were so, so much better looking than the new generation. Such a shame they couldn't have incorporated improvements into the old design rather than the newer, generic looking power plant.
Great video. Thanks. I have always wondered why people don't use 10w40 in these bikes- especially in winter. The new J series engine is supposed to use 20 50 too. I use full synthetic 10w 40 in my two Honda motorbikes and like yours it is still like golden honey when I change it at 1000 miles on the little cg125, and pretty much the same at 2000 miles in the CB250, maybe a shade darker, but still clean and honey coloured. You can buy 4 litres of it (shell advanced 4t ultra) for about £24 delivered - that's six quid a litre. I think I will be using that in my new J series engined, classic 350 when the time comes. 20w 50 makes sense in India perhaps. Here ? Not so sure. On the stripped oil pump issue, a pal of mine had that on his 500 bullet. Cost him a lot of money to get put right afterwards. Edit: I think Hitchcocks might sell a pressure relief valve modifcation for the Indian Bullets.
@@Team-fabulous I have just been out to look at my other 500 Bullet, a 2005 model and that one has an identical rocker feed as the 2002 one in the vid. So as you say, Which one is normal?!
Thanks Mr Brown, even though it's not relevant to my 2020 Bullet it was still very interesting. It was a bit short-sighted of them to remove the pressure relief valve but that's the way bean counters think isn't it, and what about all the people who rode them in the high mountains of Northern India? It gets pretty cold there too. I'm going to watch the rides next. Cheers, Mick
Very true! But the cast iron Bullets are a nearly extinct Dinosaur over here that most bikers wouldn't look twice at. Just because I like them, don't mean anyone else does!
Very interesting re oil grade,I use 20/50 in myT150 Trident and when its cold as you said. the oil is like treacle ,and its much stiffer to kick over,but I've heard the Tridents/Rocket 3s don't like the thinner oils,otherwise I'd definitely use the semi synthetic the same as you.also looking forward to your Interceptor updates!
Also love the videos on your Westwood made 750 Interceptors,so looking forward to any updates on those as well,I had very little (if any!) Knowledge on them before I watched your channel,which is surprising as they were built about five miles away from me!
They fit with minimal work, just make sure the cover plates have good clearance from the pump discs and they don't touch. My advice would be, fit the Hitchcocks pressure relief valve kit, to take the strain off the oil pump drive shaft till the oil gets warmed up. accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/accessory-shop/Pressure-Relief-Valve/20962
Both my 500 iron barrel bullets have the rocker feed take off in the same location as that on your 350 ? Ones a 1996 & the others a 1999, the 1999 one is currently stripped as the roller big end gave up & its off up to Alpha bearings for a roller conversion.
Apologies, seems YT strikes again😮. Life is a journey of experiences & learning that makes us better, stronger & wiser. Let's hope you can now navigate around any future obstacles and bring us more videos? Be safe and move forward 🏍️🏍️👍
If an Enfield is wet sumping then it is usually the joint between the 2 crankcase halves, or a bad seal on the oil pump worm drive, where the oil feed quill directs the oil through the crankshaft to the big end.
Best way to prevent it is to park it on compression. If the crankpin is above the quill, it's a lot less likely to wet sump. Someone worked out that around 1 in 20 times, when you stop the engine, the holes in both oil pumps are prefectly lined up with one another and it can drain oil down out of the tank through the pumps, not much you can do about that. This is another reason to leave it to warm up, the scavenge pump will drain a wet sump eventually but if you up the revs too soon, it'll start chucking oil out of the breather. The bunded breathers also do a good job of sorting this out. Wet sumping is also why you shouldn't check the oil with it cold. If it's wet sumped, the oil will read low, then you top it up and land up overfilled when it drains the crankcase
Hi VB. OMG where have you been ? I had a search party out looking for you ! The River Police even called in an Underwater Search Unit. Do you realise they was scanning 'The Orwell' for the last week just in case you tossed yourself off. 🤭 How dare you go AWOL ! All jokes to a side are you ok Mate ?😉😉
In NZ 🇳🇿 it gets cold 🥶 too not as cold as UK in the North Island except on Volcanic Plateau in central North Island & having massive Lake Taupo helps keep it chilly along with Mountains,Volcanoes.My Australian built Holden Ute says 20/50 but in NZ 🇳🇿 North Island we use 10/30 cause it can get down to -3° regularly & -6° occasionally & Central North Island gets even colder -7° to -11° on odd occasion & record is -17°. I noticed Triumph Dealership put 10/40 in my Trident 🔱 as per usual for our climate in Central to North Australia they'd use 10/50. The South Island's climate is much colder especially bottom half & can Snow down to the beach & inland areas can get down to -11° - -17° & the record is -22° in Central Otago. On average UK be colder except for far South Island.
@ruahinesrider Don't know a great deal about NZ, apart from my mate bought a Kiwi fruit farm out there about 7 years ago! Talking about Aussie cars, I have a 72 Chrysler CH from AU, Just finished building a new 440 motor for it (They only ever had the 318 from stock) There are only 2 others in the UK.
@@Volcanicbrown1878 Nice a Valiant Effort🤣.That's what they're called down under Chrysler Valiant or if American import Dodge. My mate had a 1981 Chrysler Valiant SE 318 & the front seats folded down & the back seat folded backwards into boot & console between front seats folded down & made a double bed.Had air conditioning & electric windows. Another model here was the Chrysler Valiant Charger that came in 265 cubic inch slant six probably biggest straight 6 available & got 1st,2nd,3rd at Bathurst in late 1970's beating the Ford & Holden V8's.They sold like hot cakes & a mate had a 265 Charger RT 770 in Valiant Pink Purple colour.They were known for their big 6 cylinders & were popular here & when I grew up in late 1980's & early 1990's you could buy a 1970-80 example for a few grand. A favorite was the 245 Valiant Pacer with off centered black stripe & 3peed manual floor change.We would work them up with headers,mags,sway bars & were 302-308 V8 killers.The 318 was a good motor as were the 340,360 & the 440 was the Ultimate.The metal on the Chrysler blocks was thick & high tensile & could bore them out heaps compared to Holden's.They weren't in the numbers if Holden or Ford's which Fords were made in NZ 🇳🇿 & Holden's, Valiant imported from Australia or Dodge,Chev imported from USA.A mate put a 360 in a International Ambulance & put Mopar parts on it & was fantastic had room for HIS bike & single bed which flipped up it was a huge & long Ambulance.You must very happy with it & only 2 in the UK as well.I'd like to see video on that so would Ausie's & other Kiwi's since they were popular back in the day.
@@ruahinesrider The full model name for the CH was ''Chrysler by Chrysler'' 10 outa 10 for the fella who came up with that name! Anyway I am badging it up as a Dodge as it's to all intent a Dodge Polaris body, but a few inches shorter than the USA version and no body knows or cares! Might have to slip a video in of it running onto the channel.......If I can get away with mopeds, I am sure I can get away with that!!! 🤣🤣😁
@@Volcanicbrown1878 Yes Chrysler,Valiant,Dodge same company basically the same Valiant is a Australian made car & badges on car say Chrysler Valiant Chrysler in smaller writing above Valiant.We had a saying for a nice one that was mint or done up "A Valiant Effort" Kiwi's with our sayings😂🤣.Same with Triumph cars I had a 2500 PI with manual overdrive gearbox was a Rocket 🚀 ship & a "Triumphant Effort"😂🤣 blow away stock 302 Ford V8. Would love to see it.
Hi VB, good to see you are "back on the air" after the recent communication trauma!! Hang in there Bud, 👍👍!! kc
@kevinchapman4408 Thanks!
It’s great to see/hear model experienced owners passing on good advice on the bikes.👍
@martinowl I try!
Good to see you back Mr Brown !
@gvinrad Kinda back, after my war with UA-cam!
Great info , I've always fancied a Bullet and it's good to know what you'd be in-for . Never seen this mentioned anywhere else . Dave nz
Thank you! Very helpful and very interesting. I have been running fully synthetic 15W 50 in my 2005 iron barrel. So far so good. But I didn't realise you should take that side cover off that's above the oil pumps when you do an oil change. Thanks again 🙏
Your welcolme!😁
No.2 checking in, great those RE!
Excellent explanation, well done on highlighting the problem for us here in the UK. Interestingly my 2003 made (2004 registered) 500 has the feed to the pipe for the rockers up next to the chest cover similar to your 350. Its now done 12k miles and there is no obvious wear on the pump worm drive. Being a fair weather rider I stop in November and don't ride until spring, so in my case the problem is unlikely to surface. Really enjoyed this one 👍.
Cool, thanks
Some years ago I aquired a 1980 350 Bullet grey import. It only had 4000km on the clock. Always used 10-40's car oil in it all year round. Never had any problems apart from oil bleeding through a porous cylinder head casting.
One of the odd things about this bike was that the 6v. double filament stop/tail lamp had in - line pins and could therefore be fitted either way round...I've never seen the like either before or since, but Hitchcocks carried spare bulbs for it...amazing!
Sold the bike eventually with many many more miles on it...10-40's car oil all year round proving to be just fine.
@keithpearson7539 That's interesting about the bulbs! Car oil is just fine for the old Bullets as you are not running the clutch in it! It's a good bit cheaper too!
The later India built bullets had a pressure relief valve in the crankshaft.......
So did some Redditch ones...
It's a ball valve mechanism in the end of the shaft...
@geoffreybennett2457 What model of Bullet are you referring to? Are you quite sure of that?
Yes I am.....I have one made in India....ask Paul Henshaw ,he has seen them too...
Not my favourite idea,for obvious reasons...the screw in one is best...I think.
The crankshaft is from cast iron type bullet.
@@geoffreybennett2457 If you are talking about the later Redditch Bullets, yes they had a pressure relief valve in the timing side mainshaft. My 2005 and 2002 Indian 500;s do not, nor does the 2007 350! This is a new one on me as I haven't come across it before 0n an Indian cast iron Bullet!
Good video , I did know about the pressure relief valve and was going to write something, but then you pointed out the difference between the Redditch and the later Indian made Bullets .
Here in Canada the temperature change is more dramatic and you should see how 20/50 flows at -30c [ it doesn't ].
I was advised by a guy who raced Triumphs in moto cross to always use 10/40 semi synthetic and not 20/50 .
When you think about it , oil flow is more important than pressure and at operating temperature oil is as thin as water anyway .
Living through Canadian winters has highlighted the huge benefit of synthetic oil , it will flow when mineral oil will not and even during mild weather it will be pumped around the engine faster at start up .Synthetic oil also clings to surfaces better when the engine is not running .
Once they are run in , all my bikes have synthetic oil in them .
Why some people think that Classic bikes should have old style mongrade oils is mystery to me .
I suppose a person could light a fire under the bike to get the oil and engine warmed up in winter . [ I have done that to truck and tractor ] [ I only ever had one vehicle go up in flames ! ]
Ha ha - I remember disconnecting the electric fuel pump feed on my 1960 Land Rover at Aviemore fifty years ago when the temperature was - 20c. I collected about two egg cup fulls of petrol in an old tin can and lit it under the inlet manifold. Once warmed up, I could start the Land Rover easily enough with the crank handle. I then towed numerous non running cars around the camp site to start them.
@@Tonyv1951 . Sounds like fun ! 🤣.
In my experience synthetic oils do not cling to surfaces as well as conventional mineral oils and this is one of the reasons they are not generally recommended for older pushrod type engines this is a well known problem and additives have been developed by companies such as Wynnes and Miller to help overcome this problem, however in the case of these Royal Enfield engines this isn't likely to be a major problem as the timing cover should always contain enough oil to prevent the cams and tappets from having a dry unlubricated start after being left standing for any period of time I would certainly never recommend this type of oil for a British twin cylinder engine though as their camshafts usually hang in space and these oils will run off of them completely when left standing for any period of time resulting in a dry start and consequently rapid wear.
@@grantbaker3336 . My experience has been the opposite of yours .
I first learned about Royal Enfield in the early 2000s, and wanted one. But, things happened, and I never got around to getting one until 2013. By then of course the original Royal Enfield Bullet was gone. I bought a new 2013 B5 Bullet 500 with the UCE engine. The first things I did within a couple weeks of buying it were to replace the horrific EFI with an Amal Concentric Mk1 carburetor, using a kit from Hitchcocks. I also replaced the huge heavy cat con exhaust with a much smaller, lighter non cat con exhaust, also from Hitchcocks. It ran 10 times better. I have put 23,000 miles on it so far, with no serious issues, but quite a few small problems. I still want an iron barrel Bullet, but have been unable to find one anywhere near where I live.
I have always used 20w50 oil in all my motorcycles for decades. I'm in Arizona, U.S., where the temperature in the summer is 110-112 degrees F (44 degrees C) and it never gets below freezing, even in what we laughingly call winter.
@geraldscott4302 With those temps, you will be fine on 20/50!
Canadian here. I've found running 10w40 or even 5w30 instead of 20w50 during colder weather makes sense. You can hear the difference in the valve train when switching to lighter oil when temperatures drop on cold mornings.
@radricster I agree, in the colder climates.
Excellent, I never knew any of that and I haven’t heard it mentioned in other reviews. They’re not just retro looking bikes, they are retro.
@TonyM540 Well said!
Mine for 30 years .. runs well , starts first kick .. daily driver . The thing is ..they were designed in 1930 by Taylor.. with a pen and and a bit of paper.. i come alond a few years later and check with a computer.....not an once of fat on those numbers ... Seriously impressed with those old time engineers ... And yes you are correct about that oil pump shaft ..even if you run a larger oil pump you will stress that worm drive and it will shear ..or wear quickly 😅.. mine is modified with needle roller rocker block bearings ... Modified clutch arm ( greater lift) just been out in the cold and thwing out as i write this
Got the same model 350,from 2007,the last year I think.
I bought it in 2011,done 10k kilometres on it,apart from a head gasket haven't touched it other than maintainance.
Love the wee thing so I keep it shiney.
Had a UCE 500,not so keen on it,fuel injection was horrible,constantly hunting at a steady throttle position.
For oil I just use Halfords 10/40 car oil,same in the primary case,never had an issue.
When I change my oil,I take the sparkplug out,loosen one of the banjo bolts at the top end and kick it over till oil seeps out of the banjo bolt.
I'm hoping that primes all the passageways before I run the bike.
Great videos,I went back and watched your 350 riding video,brilliant.
You've a new subscriber.
@k1ckyscotland988 Many thanks for subscribing! The latest 350 I have seen was 2009, I know that production of the iron Bullets officially ended in 2008, so the 2009 one must have been one that was stuck in a showroom somewhere. They are a great little bike IMHO, full of charm and character!
Nice video and explained I quite fancy an older bullet
Very interesting! I learned something new about Indian made Bullets. 👍👍
All was silent for a while ,
Then :
" Sounds Like A Gun " 🔫
And a ricocheting Bullet could be heard .
T'was Volcanic Brown bouncing back .🌋
👍
Great film, thank you. I always wondered what was going on under all those curvy castings 👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
I picked up a '02 500 similar to yours this past year and appreciate the info given. Thanks!
I bought a 350 Bullet , brand new in 2008 in trials trim . It’s still in regular use , the only mods have been , an Amal
Concentric, Boyer in place of the points , and a low level exhaust. It’s very reliable , I use 20 - 50 Silkolene , but I’ll
bear in mind to warm up the engine before setting out on very cold days , I don’t want to damage the oil pump etc . and have to take the engine apart . If it ain’t broken don’t fix it , I’ve found to my cost in the past !
Thanks for an interesting channel ……sorry you’re giving it up . Cheers😊 DaveH Lancashire
..
Channel is well and truly open still!
Great stuff………it’s real life ……no bullshit just real experiences. Cheers DaveH
I enjoyed this video, a man who knows his stuff. Thanks.
@michaelfirth1075 Thankyou!
That was really interesting thanks!!! Enjoyed watching and keep them coming!!!!! Cheers!!!
Thanks!
Excellent information keep it up, i have 8 Royal Enfield's and non of the cast iron barrel examples yet but it is just a matter of time i hope. Love your channel. Lester Gold coast Australia.
@lesterhall5310 Thanks Lester! Keep collecting!!
Brilliant explanation of how the oil system works, really interesting . Yes l usually run 10/W40 synthetic in both my Classic 500 and Bullet trials bike, Love your videos, would never be without a RE...🙂
@marlecmarine5393 Thanks for that!
I used have 2009 model bullet Electra 350 left gear . Cast iron engine has got best Thumps
Super video.
A mate of mine had a big end failure in Framlingham Norfolk and some place local replaced the big end but did not clean out the white metal that had migrated to and blocked the rocker blocks. The new big end failed in very short order and they fitted another new big end, not investigating or realising the cause and the bike got as far as Newmarket and came to a halt and was recovered here to the Isle of Man. How it got that far is beyond me.The bike, luckily, kept blowing the oil pump gasket and did not strip the worm. The oilways in the blocks were blocked solid. You could not make it up could you?
Have heard similar tales of woe over the years!
thanks chap
@trudylynch6750 Your welcome!
hitchcocks do an oil pressure relief valve that diverts the oil into the pushrod adjustment chamber to help with the models where it has been deleted.👍
Thanks for the info!
When you remove the oil drain bolts the timing chest oil will drain completely without removing the cover,I always fill the timing chest with fresh oil through the tappet adjuster cover,
@@martytoal6547 So you never check the oil pump drive shaft doing it that way nor can you fill the filter chamber. The timing chest will not drain by removing just the drain plugs. it can't, as the only way for the oil to get out of there is through the oil return hole to the tank.
@@Volcanicbrown1878 the timing chest will drain down when the quill bolt is removed!
@@martytoal6547 It will, but not completely. You still won't be able to check the condition of the oil pump drive shaft or fill the filter chamber by not removing the timing cover nor will you be able to see if there are any shavings from the oil pump drive gears as they will be at the bottom of the chamber.
good too see you back volcanic
@paultaylor961 Hang in there, It's going to take a bit longer as I am still battling with UA-cam!
Love this video. Watched it twice. Great practical insight into an important issue.
@Tonyv1951 Glad you found it helpful!
What the heck happened? I was starting to go through your vlogs and the whole lot disappeared, at least you’re back Mr Brown I’m glad to say, the vlog I’ve just watched was from 2 months ago but only appeared yesterday 🤔
@lyndenhodder5655 Yeah, had a big fallout with the idiots who run youtube. It's not quite business as usual, but I am working on it!
Thank You for the video. Much appreciated. Even so we don't have this kind of cold winters over here in Cyprus I finally fully understand the oil circuit .
Thx again & safe riding !!!
@widetube54 Thanks for watching!
I'm not a really tecnical fellar but I still enjoyed your video. I have to say, for all their faults, those engines were so, so much better looking than the new generation. Such a shame they couldn't have incorporated improvements into the old design rather than the newer, generic looking power plant.
Great video. Thanks.
I have always wondered why people don't use 10w40 in these bikes- especially in winter. The new J series engine is supposed to use 20 50 too. I use full synthetic 10w 40 in my two Honda motorbikes and like yours it is still like golden honey when I change it at 1000 miles on the little cg125, and pretty much the same at 2000 miles in the CB250, maybe a shade darker, but still clean and honey coloured. You can buy 4 litres of it (shell advanced 4t ultra) for about £24 delivered - that's six quid a litre. I think I will be using that in my new J series engined, classic 350 when the time comes. 20w 50 makes sense in India perhaps. Here ? Not so sure. On the stripped oil pump issue, a pal of mine had that on his 500 bullet. Cost him a lot of money to get put right afterwards.
Edit: I think Hitchcocks might sell a pressure relief valve modifcation for the Indian Bullets.
Yes, Hitchcocks do sell one!
My 2002 500 oil feed to the rockers is the same as your 350.. In fact iv never seen a 500 with an oil feed the same as yours!!
@Team-fabulous I think it was down to what the factory workers decided on the day!
I had a 1989 500...it had the normal rocker feed ...maybe that was a later style???
@@geoffreybennett2457 When you say normal, do you mean like the 350 has?
@@Volcanicbrown1878 yes.. Which one is normal.. 🤔🤔
@@Team-fabulous I have just been out to look at my other 500 Bullet, a 2005 model and that one has an identical rocker feed as the 2002 one in the vid. So as you say, Which one is normal?!
Thank you very informative.
@solomonraj2436 You are welcome!
Thanks Mr Brown, even though it's not relevant to my 2020 Bullet it was still very interesting. It was a bit short-sighted of them to remove the pressure relief valve but that's the way bean counters think isn't it, and what about all the people who rode them in the high mountains of Northern India? It gets pretty cold there too. I'm going to watch the rides next. Cheers, Mick
Very true! But the cast iron Bullets are a nearly extinct Dinosaur over here that most bikers wouldn't look twice at. Just because I like them, don't mean anyone else does!
@@Volcanicbrown1878 They're definitely not push the button and go bikes, you'll need to enjoy tinkering to own one.
@@5dTraveller Their not too bad once you get to know them, but I think your right, they are a bit of an enthusiasts bike!
Very interesting re oil grade,I use 20/50 in myT150 Trident and when its cold as you said. the oil is like treacle ,and its much stiffer to kick over,but I've heard the Tridents/Rocket 3s don't like the thinner oils,otherwise I'd definitely use the semi synthetic the same as you.also looking forward to your Interceptor updates!
@patrickgreenman8248 The Trident's lube system is far better than Enfields efforts! Interceptor is all but finished, so update shortly!
Also love the videos on your Westwood made 750 Interceptors,so looking forward to any updates on those as well,I had very little (if any!) Knowledge on them before I watched your channel,which is surprising as they were built about five miles away from me!
Will you be doing a video showing you changing the oil pump drive?
@paulhoughtonhhoughton9188 I changed it a long time ago, but will do a video on the next one I change!
Interesting video, so need to put different grade engine oil depending on the time of the year ?
I think you do!
That's what Enfield Redditch used to recommend...
Hello there VB!!Wats your opinion on fitting high flow/ 500cc oil pumps on 350Enfields?
They fit with minimal work, just make sure the cover plates have good clearance from the pump discs and they don't touch. My advice would be, fit the Hitchcocks pressure relief valve kit, to take the strain off the oil pump drive shaft till the oil gets warmed up. accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/accessory-shop/Pressure-Relief-Valve/20962
Both my 500 iron barrel bullets have the rocker feed take off in the same location as that on your 350 ? Ones a 1996 & the others a 1999, the 1999 one is currently stripped as the roller big end gave up & its off up to Alpha bearings for a roller conversion.
A sound move, going for the roller conversion!
No videos for a while VB, then I note all the videos have disappeared??. Hope all ok
Answer is in the comments!
Apologies, seems YT strikes again😮. Life is a journey of experiences & learning that makes us better, stronger & wiser. Let's hope you can now navigate around any future obstacles and bring us more videos? Be safe and move forward 🏍️🏍️👍
How does this think wetsump and how to prevent it?
If an Enfield is wet sumping then it is usually the joint between the 2 crankcase halves, or a bad seal on the oil pump worm drive, where the oil feed quill directs the oil through the crankshaft to the big end.
Best way to prevent it is to park it on compression. If the crankpin is above the quill, it's a lot less likely to wet sump. Someone worked out that around 1 in 20 times, when you stop the engine, the holes in both oil pumps are prefectly lined up with one another and it can drain oil down out of the tank through the pumps, not much you can do about that. This is another reason to leave it to warm up, the scavenge pump will drain a wet sump eventually but if you up the revs too soon, it'll start chucking oil out of the breather. The bunded breathers also do a good job of sorting this out. Wet sumping is also why you shouldn't check the oil with it cold. If it's wet sumped, the oil will read low, then you top it up and land up overfilled when it drains the crankcase
@@twostroke350 thats some valuable insights Thankyou so much👍
Hi VB. OMG where have you been ? I had a search party out looking for you ! The River Police even called in an Underwater Search Unit. Do you realise they was scanning 'The Orwell' for the last week just in case you tossed yourself off. 🤭
How dare you go AWOL !
All jokes to a side are you ok Mate ?😉😉
@ianwoollard9008 Well, I haven' been far! Just fell out with the idiots that run UA-cam.
In NZ 🇳🇿 it gets cold 🥶 too not as cold as UK in the North Island except on Volcanic Plateau in central North Island & having massive Lake Taupo helps keep it chilly along with Mountains,Volcanoes.My Australian built Holden Ute says 20/50 but in NZ 🇳🇿 North Island we use 10/30 cause it can get down to -3° regularly & -6° occasionally & Central North Island gets even colder -7° to -11° on odd occasion & record is -17°.
I noticed Triumph Dealership put 10/40 in my Trident 🔱 as per usual for our climate in Central to North Australia they'd use 10/50.
The South Island's climate is much colder especially bottom half & can Snow down to the beach & inland areas can get down to -11° - -17° & the record is -22° in Central Otago.
On average UK be colder except for far South Island.
@ruahinesrider Don't know a great deal about NZ, apart from my mate bought a Kiwi fruit farm out there about 7 years ago! Talking about Aussie cars, I have a 72 Chrysler CH from AU, Just finished building a new 440 motor for it (They only ever had the 318 from stock) There are only 2 others in the UK.
@@Volcanicbrown1878 Nice a Valiant Effort🤣.That's what they're called down under Chrysler Valiant or if American import Dodge.
My mate had a 1981 Chrysler Valiant SE 318 & the front seats folded down & the back seat folded backwards into boot & console between front seats folded down & made a double bed.Had air conditioning & electric windows.
Another model here was the Chrysler Valiant Charger that came in 265 cubic inch slant six probably biggest straight 6 available & got 1st,2nd,3rd at Bathurst in late 1970's beating the Ford & Holden V8's.They sold like hot cakes & a mate had a 265 Charger RT 770 in Valiant Pink Purple colour.They were known for their big 6 cylinders & were popular here & when I grew up in late 1980's & early 1990's you could buy a 1970-80 example for a few grand.
A favorite was the 245 Valiant Pacer with off centered black stripe & 3peed manual floor change.We would work them up with headers,mags,sway bars & were 302-308 V8 killers.The 318 was a good motor as were the 340,360 & the 440 was the Ultimate.The metal on the Chrysler blocks was thick & high tensile & could bore them out heaps compared to Holden's.They weren't in the numbers if Holden or Ford's which Fords were made in NZ 🇳🇿 & Holden's, Valiant imported from Australia or Dodge,Chev imported from USA.A mate put a 360 in a International Ambulance & put Mopar parts on it & was fantastic had room for HIS bike & single bed which flipped up it was a huge & long Ambulance.You must very happy with it & only 2 in the UK as well.I'd like to see video on that so would Ausie's & other Kiwi's since they were popular back in the day.
@@ruahinesrider The full model name for the CH was ''Chrysler by Chrysler'' 10 outa 10 for the fella who came up with that name! Anyway I am badging it up as a Dodge as it's to all intent a Dodge Polaris body, but a few inches shorter than the USA version and no body knows or cares! Might have to slip a video in of it running onto the channel.......If I can get away with mopeds, I am sure I can get away with that!!! 🤣🤣😁
@@Volcanicbrown1878 Yes Chrysler,Valiant,Dodge same company basically the same
Valiant is a Australian made car & badges on car say Chrysler Valiant
Chrysler in smaller writing above Valiant.We had a saying for a nice one that was mint or done up
"A Valiant Effort" Kiwi's with our sayings😂🤣.Same with Triumph cars I had a 2500 PI with manual overdrive gearbox was a Rocket 🚀 ship & a "Triumphant Effort"😂🤣 blow away stock 302 Ford V8.
Would love to see it.
What has happened to the channel? All the content vanished and then it came back with only one video. :(((
Answer in the comments!
The All round Motorcyclist 😁😆😂🤣.
@ruahinesrider Did I get his name wrong? Dam, I am sure it was The all round Motorbiker!
@@Volcanicbrown1878 Yeah that's HIS🦒name😂🤣.