I had an inner axel alignment seal loose in the axel. I only noticed it when I went to install the new Birf and axel. I was able to put it back in place by fabrication of tool to reset it into it's spot. Unfortunately, the rubber was gone. So when I eventually redo my pinion, I will fish it in through the empty diff. I finished the engine rebuild, needing to time it next. Thank you for sharing.
Excellent video, learning alot from you, Thank you. We're all the parts replaced with new ones or inspected, cleaned and reused and if replaced do you have a part # of rebuilt kit.
It all depends on how you will use your rig. 4.88 gears are great for instant high end torque, great off the line and typically used for rock crawling scenarios, but you will suffer on highway mpg’s. I stuck with 4.10’s for highway and did a 3.1 low range gear set for technical trails. I’m also running 35’s. Thanks cheers
@@trackcalledquest does your rig hunt for overdrive? I'm in Arizona and the speed limit is 75. I just purchased the rig out of Seattle and drove back to AZ. Tons of play/lash while in park and moving the drive shafts.
@@dfox344 No it does not hunt for overdrive. But it does feel a bit underpowered specially on steep grades. Otherwise flat highways are good to go. These trucks were not engineered for high speed performance but, do shine in there elements.
Did you find what caused the problem in the first place? Have just got a 2010 79 series and the input drive seal was leaking so I checked the oil level to see how much was gone and noticed the condition of the remaining oil is grey and milky looking I'm wondering if it's suffered the same problem as yours. Also there is a noticable driveline lash noise but it's my first cruiser so I'm not sure if that's just the noise they make.
Yes, an internal axle housing oil retainer that is typically installed in the long portion of the axle housing by factory was the problem. Reinstallation of the axle shaft was probably the way the oil retainer got knocked loose and ended up in the ring and pinion. Typically if the gear oil is grey and milky there has been cross contamination between the birfield axle moly grease and the gear oil and vice versa. Which relates to a bad axle shaft seal. Also check the magnet on the drain plug if there is a fine metal film your fine, In my case I had fricken shrapnel on the magnet which led me to dig deeper. As far as backlash goes you will have to pull the third member to check for specs if it’s bothering you that bad. I would just leave it unless the front gears are noisy. Your drain plug will tell you exactly what’s going on. In your case I would say is a bad axle shaft seal. Hope this helps, Cheers.
I had an inner axel alignment seal loose in the axel. I only noticed it when I went to install the new Birf and axel. I was able to put it back in place by fabrication of tool to reset it into it's spot. Unfortunately, the rubber was gone. So when I eventually redo my pinion, I will fish it in through the empty diff. I finished the engine rebuild, needing to time it next. Thank you for sharing.
I broke down in the Utah desert and had to do this exact same repair....in the dirt and with only a pair of pliers and a Leatherman. ;-)
Excellent video, learning alot from you, Thank you. We're all the parts replaced with new ones or inspected, cleaned and reused and if replaced do you have a part # of rebuilt kit.
Where did you get the stand to mount the diff from?
JEGS HIGH PERFORMANCE- Third Member Assembly Stand for 9 in. Ford Differential
Part Number: 555-60658. Worked out real well. Cheers!
What is your thoughts on installing 4.88 gears for 35 inch tires.
It all depends on how you will use your rig. 4.88 gears are great for instant high end torque, great off the line and typically used for rock crawling scenarios, but you will suffer on highway mpg’s. I stuck with 4.10’s for highway and did a 3.1 low range gear set for technical trails. I’m also running 35’s. Thanks cheers
@@trackcalledquest does your rig hunt for overdrive? I'm in Arizona and the speed limit is 75. I just purchased the rig out of Seattle and drove back to AZ. Tons of play/lash while in park and moving the drive shafts.
@@dfox344 No it does not hunt for overdrive. But it does feel a bit underpowered specially on steep grades. Otherwise flat highways are good to go. These trucks were not engineered for high speed performance but, do shine in there elements.
@@trackcalledquest ok. Thank you for your time. Great videos. 👍
Pertaining to the bearing pullers, do you have part numbers for them?
Hi My friend Nice too see you videos where you are located.?
California United States
Did you find what caused the problem in the first place? Have just got a 2010 79 series and the input drive seal was leaking so I checked the oil level to see how much was gone and noticed the condition of the remaining oil is grey and milky looking I'm wondering if it's suffered the same problem as yours. Also there is a noticable driveline lash noise but it's my first cruiser so I'm not sure if that's just the noise they make.
Yes, an internal axle housing oil retainer that is typically installed in the long portion of the axle housing by factory was the problem. Reinstallation of the axle shaft was probably the way the oil retainer got knocked loose and ended up in the ring and pinion. Typically if the gear oil is grey and milky there has been cross contamination between the birfield axle moly grease and the gear oil and vice versa. Which relates to a bad axle shaft seal. Also check the magnet on the drain plug if there is a fine metal film your fine, In my case I had fricken shrapnel on the magnet which led me to dig deeper. As far as backlash goes you will have to pull the third member to check for specs if it’s bothering you that bad. I would just leave it unless the front gears are noisy. Your drain plug will tell you exactly what’s going on. In your case I would say is a bad axle shaft seal. Hope this helps, Cheers.