Really informative video. I'm going to bypass the thermostat in a mini fridge, remove the thermostat, and replace it with a garden thermostat so that I can use it for storing eggs. The lowest setting doesn't get warm enough. Advice is greatly appreciated.
QUESTION PLEASE: Where does the other end of the capillary tube go to on an older Kenmore (circa 2002 w/Freezer on top) with the freezer on the top of fridge. Does it go to the Evaporator fan area in the freezer? It would be very helpful if you could please share the information.Thanks. Phil
I have a question I have the same unit as you have it stops working but when I tap on the freezer control knob or front panel it will start running but will not start up again on it's own you have to always tap on it what do you siggest
I have a question I replace the bed defrost timer on my refrigerator now it’s OK but then it freezes up not allowing the lower part of the fridge is not cool enough could it be the freezer thermostat bad?
My Kenmore Coldspot refrigerator, manufactured in 2010, has 3 wires going to it. Yes, 3 wires. Which 2 wires should I attach a bypass wire to? The wires are: One green one on one side of the thermostat that clips on to a tiny single metal prong on this side of the thermostat, then on the opposite side of the thermostat are attached twin wires, one is an orange wire, & the other is a red wire. These twin wires attach to the twin metal plug-ins of the thermostat. These “plug-ins” look almost like the type of plug-in that you have on a lamp (or any small electrical device) that plugs-in to a normal, typical household wall electrical outlet. There are no screws holding this thermostat in. Instead, it plugs-in to 2 fragile plastic pieces. And I can’t see a way to undo the “plug-ins” from the 2 plastic pieces they are forced into (one of which is attached to the orange wire, and the other of which is attached to the red wire). I would think it would slide out, but there’s no way to slide this thermostat out. There are only plastic parts I would have to force apart and I fear this would crack the plastic into which the thermostat plugs. If the plastic parts are cracked or broken, I fear I will not be able to plug a new thermostat into them. Could you take apart the thermostat on a newer fridge, one with these plastic parts and show us how to remove a thermostat from the plastic parts without breaking the plastic? Also, which 2 wires would I connect a bypass wire onto? Since there are 3 wires connected to my thermostat (not including the metal thermometer wire which protrudes from the center of the thermostat and runs the entire length underneath the top-mounted freezer). I have photos of all of this if you have an email address I can email them to.
Please look in the about section of my page for an email address. Also keep in mind I am not a professional nor did I have professional training, I will try to help but you will be doing this at your own risk.
Hi, I bypassed the thermostat by connecting the live and the blue compressor wire together and the compressor came on instantly, my question though is do i have a faulty thermostat or a faulty start relay ? Ive inspected the relay and seems some slight heat or burn marks but no other damage inside there and ive recently fitted a replacement thermostat in my fridge freezer but the fridge either stays on all the time or stays off all the time, im not sure what the issue is ? Any tips appreciated. Could it be the start relay ?
@@BARR8323 There is no noise on mine and i looked inside and the round thing inside( the ptc thermistor disc) is still in one piece, but there is slight burning on the plastic casing in line with where it is
My compressor fan is working, but when I try to turn my fridge up to cool, the transfer fan in back of the fridge turns on for 4 seconds and shuts back off. Is this a thermostat issue??
@@BARR8323 as a new tech, I'm just trying to figure out your thought process here for the sake of time in my future diagnosing. So there was no cooling at all? Fridge was just warm? If so, I thought there had to be some cooling but not enough before trying to bypass the thermostat thus establishing that it was a bad thermostat? But if fridge was running but just warm then you established it was a bad compressor? I'm just trying to see the correlation between the title of the video and the content.
My symptoms were, there were no cooling. However I can hear something running. I assumed it was the thermostat, so I by passed it, still nothing, so I opened the back and disable the condenser fan. Fire 🔥 it up and nothing. So I checked the compressor relay and found it to be bad. Since I had everything opened, I went ahead and made a video. Thermostat control the compressor, so I guess another approach was is to manually power the compressor from the back and if it’s running then move to the thermostat. I my case I took everything apart to find out it was just the compressor relay which is located on the compressor itself and it’s a quicker access.
Thanks for the question. Since I am bypassing the thermostat, I need to continue power to the compressor and didn’t want to cut the ends off. The wire with the blue end is what I am referring to, that is my jumper wire. Think of the thermostat like an automatic switch that turns the compressor on and off automatically, if you bypass the switch and the compressor runs then the switch is the problem, in this case it would be the thermostat. Hope this helps.
@@BARR8323 hello can i ask whats the problem with my ref not cooling well and i chek the curent and pressure fluctuating,from negative 20 to 0 pressure tnx
Really informative video. I'm going to bypass the thermostat in a mini fridge, remove the thermostat, and replace it with a garden thermostat so that I can use it for storing eggs. The lowest setting doesn't get warm enough. Advice is greatly appreciated.
Thank you for showing how to make the jumper. This is what I am looking for to test my fridge thermostat control
QUESTION PLEASE:
Where does the other end of the capillary tube go to on an older Kenmore (circa 2002 w/Freezer on top) with the freezer on the top of fridge. Does it go to the Evaporator fan area in the freezer? It would be very helpful if you could please share the information.Thanks. Phil
do they make electronic only (ntc sensor ?) fridge thermostats ? (i.e. without the capillary and bellows mechanical system)
I have a question I have the same unit as you have it stops working but when I tap on the freezer control knob or front panel it will start running but will not start up again on it's own you have to always tap on it what do you siggest
Check for loose wire, if you have tap the control know perhaps the thermostat is going and the vibration is what triggers it to turn on.
@@BARR8323 Thanks I was wanting someone else's opinion before I got in to it and torn it apart
is there any testing to the probe that goes in the refridgerator?
I have a question I replace the bed defrost timer on my refrigerator now it’s OK but then it freezes up not allowing the lower part of the fridge is not cool enough could it be the freezer thermostat bad?
It’s possible, the only way is to run test.
My Kenmore Coldspot refrigerator, manufactured in 2010, has 3 wires going to it. Yes, 3 wires. Which 2 wires should I attach a bypass wire to? The wires are: One green one on one side of the thermostat that clips on to a tiny single metal prong on this side of the thermostat, then on the opposite side of the thermostat are attached twin wires, one is an orange wire, & the other is a red wire. These twin wires attach to the twin metal plug-ins of the thermostat. These “plug-ins” look almost like the type of plug-in that you have on a lamp (or any small electrical device) that plugs-in to a normal, typical household wall electrical outlet. There are no screws holding this thermostat in. Instead, it plugs-in to 2 fragile plastic pieces. And I can’t see a way to undo the “plug-ins” from the 2 plastic pieces they are forced into (one of which is attached to the orange wire, and the other of which is attached to the red wire). I would think it would slide out, but there’s no way to slide this thermostat out. There are only plastic parts I would have to force apart and I fear this would crack the plastic into which the thermostat plugs. If the plastic parts are cracked or broken, I fear I will not be able to plug a new thermostat into them. Could you take apart the thermostat on a newer fridge, one with these plastic parts and show us how to remove a thermostat from the plastic parts without breaking the plastic? Also, which 2 wires would I connect a bypass wire onto? Since there are 3 wires connected to my thermostat (not including the metal thermometer wire which protrudes from the center of the thermostat and runs the entire length underneath the top-mounted freezer). I have photos of all of this if you have an email address I can email them to.
Please look in the about section of my page for an email address. Also keep in mind I am not a professional nor did I have professional training, I will try to help but you will be doing this at your own risk.
Hi, I bypassed the thermostat by connecting the live and the blue compressor wire together and the compressor came on instantly, my question though is do i have a faulty thermostat or a faulty start relay ? Ive inspected the relay and seems some slight heat or burn marks but no other damage inside there and ive recently fitted a replacement thermostat in my fridge freezer but the fridge either stays on all the time or stays off all the time, im not sure what the issue is ? Any tips appreciated. Could it be the start relay ?
It's Possible, shake the relay and if you hear a noise its bad, I have a video on that.
@@BARR8323 There is no noise on mine and i looked inside and the round thing inside( the ptc thermistor disc) is still in one piece, but there is slight burning on the plastic casing in line with where it is
If your fan and compressor runs when you bypass the T-stat, then the thermostat is bad
My compressor fan is working, but when I try to turn my fridge up to cool, the transfer fan in back of the fridge turns on for 4 seconds and shuts back off. Is this a thermostat issue??
Can’t really tell without testing, it could be a fan problem.
Thanks for the reply 323, I got new Fridge! Works great. Take care.
@ 2:50 you said you knew something is wrong with the compressor and it's not a thermostat problem. So eht even bother bypassing the thermostat?
I did all this troubleshooting before, then decided to make the video.
@@BARR8323 as a new tech, I'm just trying to figure out your thought process here for the sake of time in my future diagnosing. So there was no cooling at all? Fridge was just warm? If so, I thought there had to be some cooling but not enough before trying to bypass the thermostat thus establishing that it was a bad thermostat? But if fridge was running but just warm then you established it was a bad compressor? I'm just trying to see the correlation between the title of the video and the content.
My symptoms were, there were no cooling. However I can hear something running. I assumed it was the thermostat, so I by passed it, still nothing, so I opened the back and disable the condenser fan. Fire 🔥 it up and nothing. So I checked the compressor relay and found it to be bad. Since I had everything opened, I went ahead and made a video.
Thermostat control the compressor, so I guess another approach was is to manually power the compressor from the back and if it’s running then move to the thermostat.
I my case I took everything apart to find out it was just the compressor relay which is located on the compressor itself and it’s a quicker access.
I am confused, what fabricated wire are you talking about? I still don't know how you determined the thermostat is bad. It wasn't clear enough for me.
Thanks for the question. Since I am bypassing the thermostat, I need to continue power to the compressor and didn’t want to cut the ends off. The wire with the blue end is what I am referring to, that is my jumper wire. Think of the thermostat like an automatic switch that turns the compressor on and off automatically, if you bypass the switch and the compressor runs then the switch is the problem, in this case it would be the thermostat. Hope this helps.
you mean thermostat for freezer qnd fridge are the same or different
Some fridge have 1 that controls the freezer and fridge and some have 2.
It will depend on the brand.
@@BARR8323 hello can i ask whats the problem with my ref not cooling well and i chek the curent and pressure fluctuating,from negative 20 to 0 pressure tnx
It’s possible the refrigerant is low
@@BARR8323 although the standing pressure is about 60... tnx a lot
I don’t think the system should go into negative when running. Maybe do a search on refrigerator operating pressure.
They call that the cold control
Can't get beyond use of the word "frigerator"