WHY would u want any artificially inseminated queens when u clearly want to save and supprt the bee population, its contradictive and goes against nature. Just NO to anyone who dont do this the natural way its just facepalm tbh. cut away all the fake stuff, specially when u deal with bees, there can, and is, stuff u use to inseminate in one way or another that will alter the queen a tiny bit.
I respectfully disagree. There is actually nothing natural about having honey bees in this country. They are not native. Adding desirable traits to your stock by bringing in different genetics can be advantageous if done mindfully. Although not usually done artificially, look at crosses in the human race. If you are in to reading bee books, check out what Brother Adam writes about mixing races in "Beekeeping At Buckfast Abbey.
The area I live in has mostly Africanized wild bees. The African bee gene is very dominate. So AI is idea if I’m making my own queens and want to avoid breeding the Africanized gene.
@@bobbinnie9872 they've been here for about 400 years though so that point is irrelevant. They're natural to the environment at this point. They can and do survive in the wild.
I'm so thankful for all these guys and those that started doing this many, many years ago. Helping get bees propagate and giving new people the opportunity to continue the art of beekeeping.
probably the best tutorial ever on queen raising; thank you so much for putting all those parts together. so many doubts i had you just cleared. thanks again and cheers from southern france
Bob - this was one of the most helpful videos I have seen on the subject of raising your own queens. You provided a huge resource to us viewers on this one. Thank you so much. You perspective on the whole spectrum of beekeeping is one of the most enjoyable and practical ones I have found and I find myself constantly referring to information that you have put out. So many people put up opinions based on only experience, but you link knowledge and solid science with your experience and that provides me and my operation with an invaluable resource. Thank you so much!
Wow what a great video but at this point I am not ready for all this . I have a great man that I am purchasing all my supplies from at this time but down the road I may try this . I am trying to watch all your videos. I would love to have one of your nuc boxes they look very well built . Please keep up all these great video. Thanks Gene
Imagine trying grafting process after you had one to many cups of coffee bet your hands would shake really bad when you work on something that small. Amazing video love the amounts of usable information and quotes. That trailer is awesome 😎
Thanks for the encouragement Bob. I will be giving this a try as a second year BeeKeeper. Help me understand why a cell starter is not a good cell finisher? Why does adding a Queen to a cell starter, which is what you are doing by removing the double screen board and replacing with an excluder, improve their performance in finishing a Queen cell? I like that you can split a double box and make it into a cell producer.
Cell starters in emergency mode will start a large number of cells but for some reason will often not finish high numbers well. When given cells above an excluder queen-rite colonies must go into swarm or supersedure mode and finish cells well. To be honest it's amazing to me that it works so well.
@@bobbinnie9872 Would be interesting for someone to compare quality stock queens raised in a cell starter to those raised in a queen-rite cell finisher. I'm curious to know if the bees only focus on the queen cells in a cell starter that they determine to be the strongest or most viable. No response needed. Just posting a thought. May be a good research project for a college student.
Bob, Excellent video! You go the extra mile to describe the entire process in detail which will help newbees take the challenge of raising queens. This method is similar to the Cloake Board method which I used to use. Last summer I tried your double screen (Snelgrove board) method and it worked well. I am a big fan of the double screen board and have found it has many uses. I understand why the incubator is used and I have one myself, but for simplicity why not move the capped cells to their mating nucs instead? Especially after June 21st (summer solstice) when the temperature is warm. I hear they move 48 hour cells to mating nucs. Most backyard beekeepers don't own an incubator. Thanks Again for the GREAT video.
We have done that at times in the past. Currently, we are making up our nucs one day before the cells are ripe and installed . You might enjoy "48 Hour Old Queen Cell Experiment". ua-cam.com/video/oETwqBzeD5s/v-deo.html
Hi Bob, and thanks for another great and highly informative video. I have a couple questions regarding the timing box. In order to have nothing on the frame, when it is polled, other than larvae that are at the perfect grafting age, why not remove the queen from the area of that frame after 24 hours, so that three days later when the frame is removed, you will have nothing on that frame for grafting other than larvae that are 1 to 24 hours old? Question two is probably because I am a little confused about the ideal time to graft a larvae. I thought the ideal was 12 hours old. Seems like you are pulling that frame on day five, when it will have a mixture of everything from one day old eggs to two day old larvae. Some of your targets will be still eggs, and about half of the larvae will be a little older than ideal, no?
To the person saying they got Africanized queens from Alabama I won't contest the fact that you got a queen that was hot but I will contend that she was NOT Africanized. For a time I worked part time for the Alabama state entomology department, checking the Alabama Gulf Coast for Africanized swarms. The migration of that strain NEVER reached Alabama and we checked for swarms being brought in with port traffic and along the I -10 corridor. The only time we had Africanized colonies was when a beekeeper brought in Africanized queens from central Florida and those colonies were quickly iradicated. Queens from Alabama are for the most part a good deal. Mike in LA (Lower Alabama)
Great video and details of the reasons why you create good queens, specially the information about breeder queen restriction. Do a very similar process except with cloake boards. I smiled at the t-shirt landing board. Thanks for taking your time to make such a vibeeo.
Great instruction video. Looking forward to see a video when you receive your Karnelian queens (per your prior video few weeks ago) and what you will do with them.
What a great video! Really like your setup. I hope to be grafting my own queens in the next few years. This is my first year with bees. Where do you get your breeder queens from?
Thanks Bob, you're a skilled educator and I appreciate your time in sharing your wisdom so enthusiastically. It's interesting to see alternative ways to do something. Is there any reason you don't use a Cloake board? There seems to be quite a lot of work, including handling the queen, to manipulate the hive. Down here in Australia it would seem Cloake boards would be more popular. I'm currently doing some work with a breeder and run around 250 builders on Cloake boards. I'm personally just making the transition from amateur to professional beekeeping, so it's excellent experience. Personally I use the JZ-BZ cell cups, but found I would sometimes damage the cell taking it off the bar. This season I ripped down the bars to make them narrower and allow the flange on the bottom of the cup to be more easily gripped. Could be something to look into to assist with cell harvesting.
Thanks for the tip on the cell bars. I didn't think of that, I guess it was too simple. I've tried cloak boards but still prefer divider boards. Thanks.
Sir, I have a semi-hot hive that consists of 2 deeps & 2 supers full of bees. Once I crack the open and gain access to the first brood area they’re too aggressive compared to my other colonies. I asked you a while ago if killing the queen and replacing her with another mated one would change the genetics, you said most likely in 3 weeks…. Yesterday, I finally pinched her (first time pinching one) and did a mite wash while I was at it to find a mite count of 1. It was suggested to requeen this hive using a Nuc but I’ve never seen an example of how to do it. Do you have a video on how or point me in the right direction please? I have bad ADHD and prefer illustrations or videos. Once again, thank you!
Hi Jason. I don't have a video on that specifically but I believe there are some if you search online. One tip that will help with acceptance no matter how you do it is to move the colony to another spot in your apiary so they will lose the field force. Perhaps to a position where they will fly into neighboring colonies. They are the most aggressive and most likely to not accept anything new. When the colony is left with only the younger bees they are much easier to get along with.
Liker-Subscriber-Notifier here. Outstanding way to do this!!! Thank You for sharing, Bob! I can see that I'll be making one of these boxes up very shortly. I'm new to beekeeping and have a lot to learn- but want to learn how to make my own queens. This is an excellent way to know for sure how old the larvae are.
My experience is 100% in agreement with the "right environment" being a critical cog in the wheel. Get that right and a marginal mother can produce superior children. Good, proper nutrition and nurturing at the first stages of life are game changing for all species and easily evidenced in bees.
Splitting Using a Double Screen Board: ua-cam.com/video/Z62UwOLfdMo/v-deo.html How To Make Double Screen Boards: ua-cam.com/video/w3-wqwbfeE4/v-deo.html
Another good video! I have only been getting 50-60% take on my grafted cells and wasn’t sure why. I’m pretty sure it’s in the grafting process. Humidity and possibly handling of the larvae are what I’m working on. How long do you think is acceptable to have the larvae out of the colony from the time you pull the day old larvae out until they’re grafted and set in the cell builder? Thanks Bob
A long time, as long as the humidity is right. Keep them covered with a warm, damp towel when moving. Temperature isn't quite as important as long as it's not too hot.
Bob, I read on another video that you buy some queens from Florida. Do you only use Carniolans in your hives? Also, how many times a day do you get stung? Amazing to see how gentle your bees are. This video has encouraged me to try this myself. Thank you.
The queens we're currently buying in Florida are mostly used for nuc production, packages and store queen sales. For the most part we have started using cells and queens produced by us in our own outfit. Our breeders are Caucasian and we are trying to get as much of that as possible into our colonies although it's taking awhile. Some days we get only a couple of stings and some days we get a couple dozen.
Hello bob I met you in 2022when you came to be the speaker for Surry county beekeepers association,that was a great meeting.I know this video is two years old,but I have a question.First I want to tell you that I am a four year old beekeeper I want to start grafting my on qeens for 2023, so my question is if you take your mating nucs away from your main apiary like it shows at the end of the video how does your queens get mated or does the nucs produce enough drones for the queens to get mated?
We always place our nucs within flying distance of large yards that have the drone stock we want to mate with. Our favorite spot is near three yards, between 1/2 and 1-1/2 miles all in different directions.
Hi, Bob, great video. A question for you. When is the best time in the bee year to produce queens? When is too early and when is too late. I understand that exact dates vary based on local conditions, but what conditions should we watch for in determining breeding times. Also, do you need a full 8 or 10 frame colony, or can you produce fewer queens using 5 or 6 frame multi-story nucs? I am one of those who has been intimidated by the whole process. I’m taking your advice to heart. The only way to get started is to start and the only way to learn is to try. Thanks for this and all of your videos. Stu
Hi Stu. The absolute best time for producing queen cells is during swarming season. That's when colonies are really ready to make cells and is usually when they're in their peak condition. That being said you can make them anytime the drone population is good enough for mating and the weather is good enough. Many people try to early. The bees wait until they have hatching drones and so do we. Good luck.
Great video, but I think you should have to mention after one get 10,30, 50, 100 queen cells, will need the same number of equipment ( boxes, matting nucs and resources ) to make any use of these queen cells, I mean, what you going to do with this many queen cells if one can't make it hatch and mate?! This year I grafted over 100 queens and sold about 75/80% some I kept, some never made back.
Hello Bob! Thank you for your informative video. I have a question if you don’t mind: how often can you flip the starter-finisher system to raise more cells frames? Thank you! Nicolas
Hi Nicolas. It can be done over and over but the colony becomes depleted eventually if not given extra brood. We like to use a colony, then use another for the next round, and then go back to the original for the round after that. It gives a colony a chance to readjust and become somewhat normal before using again. And as I mentioned, if you would like to boost them with a frame or two of sealed brood from other colonies each time they will stay "up" indefinitely.
Thank you Bob!! Your videos are wonderful. I am a professional beekeeper in Lebanon, and I’m really learning a lot from you! Especially the double screen board which I asked my workers to start producing so we can use them in the coming season🙂 Best wishes! Nicolas
Thanks for the informative video. I read the slide about using an incubator, but still have a question. Once they're capped and you take them out of the finisher, how long before they hatch? Can you take them straight to a mating nuc without putting them in a incubator?
The time it takes to hatch after putting them in the incubator depends on how old they are when we take them out of the finisher.We like to introduce cell s when they are ripe and will hatch within 24 hours but but don't like to leave them in the finisher until that time incase something goes wrong. You could take the cells straight to the nuc without using the incubator if you want too but there is a greater chance of problems occuring.
Can the cell protector bars you use, be purchased somewhere? Or do you make them yourselves? You mentioned each bar holds 20 cells. Just wondering, thank you Bob!!
@@bobbinnie9872 thank you Bob. I searched Mann Lake before asking you since I knew you were a ML dealer. Only showed the orange protector cups. Tried again and found the bars. Sorry I bothered you, but thank you again!!!
We purchased the frames we're currently using but have made them in the past. They're not hard to make and you start with a regular frame and tweak it.
We try to saturate the area with our own drones with surrounding yards but of course there is no guarantee. There is always the possibility of other drones in the area from other beekeepers.
Bob, this video by far is the best that I’ve ever seen on grafting. My hat is off to you! I only try to keep 5 to 7 hives as a hobby to produce honey for my immediate family and a few friends. I’ve only bought 1 nuc and 1 other queen so at this point I don’t see myself doing any grafting but I will definitely remember this video incase I decide to give it a try. Thanks for your videos and I can’t wait to taste your sourwood honey in about one week.
I've watched a bunch of other queen rearing videos just to get people's perspectives, but I got way more out of this one than out of all the other ones put together. So far I've watched it twice and I keep getting more out of it. Bob is an incredible professional and an incredible teacher. The information is so dense that it took me a couple of hours to watch it, because I kept having to pause the video and absorb what he just said before moving on to the next piece of information. I almost never take notes, but I've taken 4 pages of notes. Thank God for Mr. Binnie and for UA-cam. This is priceless.
@@bobbinnie9872 yes Bob please keep making videos. You have soooooo much knowledge and I’m sure there’s thousands of other beekeepers that are depending on learning as much as possible from you. I know I am!!! Thank you for all the videos you have done so far and please continue!! Lorie
I as well, I have watched 3 times already and am watching again. I don’t know about the rest of you however I have a lot to learn and am very grateful to those like Bob that are willing to share their experiences and knowledge 👍 Thank.
Bob, I actually have a video request. UA-cam has videos on starting a successful business, and videos on beekeeping; but very few that put the two things together. If you had the chance to talk to your younger self from 45 years ago, wanting to make your living from beekeeping, I bet you could say a lot about both. If you can this winter, would you mind doing a long video on that topic? In fact, you could probably do a series. I bet a lot of people would benefit. I sure would! I keep bees because I love working bees. To me, the business side of what I want to do is boring. But I know that it's absolutely critical if I want my bees to feed my kids and pay my bills. So I devour all the good advice I can get. Sean Govan Honeydrop Farm
I really enjoy your videos. You have the calm, clarity, speaking voice and general demeanor of a VERY good teacher. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Defiantly one of the best if not the best video on Queen rearing I have seen, very concise and full of information. Thank You Bob. The Canadian Beekeeper Ian Steppler has a very good video on this too but his technique is different.
If you watch Bobs Technique, and watch mine, you see all those basics that we are targeting, but our process is different because we manage different conditions and need to satisfy different requirements . Excellent content Bob❤️👍🇨🇦
@@aCanadianBeekeepersBlog oh come on Ian! This is the internet, you're supposed to say Bob's method is wrong since he doesn't do it exactly the same as you. Enough of this "different conditions" palaver... Back in reality, it's really nice to see the two best Beekeeper’s Mentors on UA-cam supporting each other. You are in completely different environments, but apply deep logic to the conditions to get amazing results, and really explain your reasoning clearly enough that we can understand the principles and be able to apply them to a different environment. Thank you both!
I LOVE how you quote researchers and use strong science in your operation. Seems like a lot of beekeepers buy into myth and legend more than they should. Keep it up!
A greatly detailed video that made me excited to try crafting my own queens! We lost a few last year. I want to start learning on how to make my own. It will save a lot of money for sure. Thank you Bob for taking the time to teach us👍
@@bobbinnie9872 lol😂😂😂 Your Very Intelligent Bob,I'd Never insult you,best Gem on You Tube, I see people are starting to see what I noticed right from the start! Take care man!
Hello Bob. This is my third or fourth time watching this video now. Same goes for your series with Chris Werner & family... There is so much quality information. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos!
Not sure why im using this comment box to admit this but i just think bob is such an inspiration to beekeeping. His methods of delivering information and devoted efforts to add in credible texts in his videos goes unmatched. I have learned much over the years from your videos sir and while i explore other beekeepers online i always come back to you. Stay diligent my friend you help so many keepers of bees. Cheers Justin, Canada Alberta
Hello. Bob. I just started beekeeping 2 months ago and would like to mimic how you do it in my apiary in Korea. And thanks for what you said. It encourages me alot. Skill will come with time, skill comes with practice. Last of all, thank all of you for taking the time out of your life to make informative videos about beekeeping and to share your experience.
You are the mentor every beek needs and rarely gets. I know your time is precious and am grateful for your first hand knowledge and experience. Loved the references also. Thanks to UA-cam, you won't have to spend your retirement writing a book! (Though we all would benefit from that too!)
Bob. This is absolute gold, for a guy like me, just starting my grafting career. Thank-you so much for putting together such a great video on your process. Sadly, I can only click "like" once.
You have exceptional teaching manner, easy to understand and pleasant voice calming example in Presence of your students and bees. Thank you ,you help so many more than you will ever know by your videos contributions.
Hey I have to say thank you for teaching/ showing how to use the double screen board for splitting hives. It works like a charm and the success rate for accepting a new queen is 100%, which is much better than my previous method that I use. I live in Oregon and we have about a hundred hives and I would like to increase that to 300. My issue is always in the winter where 30% of my hives die sometimes. I would like a video how you overwinter bees in a climate like Oregon. Thanks Bob!
May I ask what is the cause of your winter losses? I assume that it's not the sub-zero temps. The double dividing board is a great tool for many things.
@@russellkoopman3004 so about 15-20% of the hives die by October 25 due do absconding, wasps and honey bees robbing. The other 10-15% die due to mites... I think due to having lots of wasps honey bees abscond...
I'm hoping to have time to make a video on prepping for winter. I used to live in Oregon and overwintered OK. The region I'm in now isn't much different for overwintering and we do OK as long as we do everything I know we should do. That's the trick, finding the time to do everything I know we should do.
Hello, I live in Turkey. I am a beekeeper as a hobby. I have about 20 hives. I have been producing my own queen bees for 2 years. this year I applied a method similar to yours. but there are very important details in your method that will increase success. I follow your videos with pleasure and interest. I learned a lot from you. thank you very much for everything. I wish you continued success.
Maybe there's a reason artificially inseminated queens get superseded more often than naturally mated queens. Maybe the bees know better than people which cells make the better queens. It happens for a reason even if we don't know what that reason is. Just a thought that comes to mind.
Bob, I have gone back and looked at his numerous time now. I appreciate it as I'm now confident enough to try my hand at it myself now. God bless you and keep doing what you're doing. It does help others I promise!
Bob You mentioned you didn't know why you have seen so many views on this episode. It's because guys like me have re-watched it so many times, capturing every detail of this method. It's practical, efficient and effective. Have you stopped to think that people who have not been born yet will be watching your work? Randy
Hi Bob! I have watched this video many times and written down step by step your procedure. I am ready to try queen rearing for the first time using your method. I do not have a mating yard. I would like to know if I can create the mating nucs and set them up in the same apiary/backyard.
I am a new beekeeper and have been attempting to catch swarms in western Washington. If this doesn't work, i will be purchasing packages next spring from local apiaries. I thank you for your videos and your knowledge sir. I have watched many videos and taken courses prior to getting the bees. I have finally collected enough materials and equipment to feel secure for the first year. We watch your equipment building videos too as my husband is a carpenter and is teaching me to make our own equipment. Your are a wonderful teacher and your knowledge and teaching style is amazingly easy to follow and understandable. Thank you, thank you. Maybe a mentorship program would be a next step for you?
Hi Bob You are doing a fantastic job Up to now you have given the best commentary about Queen rearing especially the humility factor etc, I’m in the U.K. so weather is not the best early on in the year, Il have to sort an area up that can be used to start Queen rearing I like how you split up the frames, Iv not seen this way before If you can make more videos that would be fantastic Keep up the good work sir
Bob, one step that I didn’t see mentioned is about placing new cups into colony to be polished. Is this a step that is not necessary? Great video-I will be using the info to use on my first grafting soon. Thank you for taking the time to put these together and share your knowledge and expertise.
Bob I’m new only 4 years of keeping. I’m watching and you’re saying you you leave the queen for four days between the queen of splitters. Then you know you have one day old larvae. Does she not late for those other three days?
She does continue laying but in this case you would only use the larger larvae present. Most would actually still be eggs. You can also take the barrier queen excluders out and let her move around again after she has laid on your grafting frame.
Really appreciate the education Bob, Your wood shop is very impressive. I have to battle my wife just to have half the garage for my box building. Great videos thank you.
The main reason is to keep the cells safe. The longer they are in the colony the bigger the chance of something going wrong. It also allows the colony to get back to normal quicker.
Hello. one question please!! I need a few only queen cells, about 20. Can i use the queenless colonie, as a starter and as a finisher, or it is better to use a queenright colonie as a finisher? Thanks
You can use a queen-less starter to finish cells. The difference is that it works well only one, or possibly two times because the nurse bees begin to get to old.
Have you tried re-queening up the excluder in the honey super with cell protector? Allows the virgin more time to “get stronger” before she zooms through the excluder to find the original queen and knock her off We do it in New Zealand .. works Great videos guys!
As always excellent video I really appreciate you taking the time. I know with as many bees as you have you don't have much time. I always learn something from you each time. Keep them coming there a great joy and help.
We give them to a hive in a position where they will clean it and hopefully not fill it. We tend to use the same few frames over and over. We wash them out with a hose and warm water before giving them to a colony for a day or two.
@@JosiahGarber One of our favorite places to hold a frame before isolating the breeder queen on it is actually on the far side of the box the breeder queen is in.
I intend to start with ten hives .Incase i get only one hive occupied with bees ,are you telling me i can multiply my bees to have all the hives occupied
I've split 5 into 11 in past 3 weeks (thanks to your double screen board method) and hoping to take on grafting this yr.....gonna watch this video over and over till I muster up faith....pray for me:)
I appreciate the encouragement you display in your videos. Your voice is easy on the ears and it’s a channel grand children can watch, they love the bees.
I thoroughly enjoyed this video. Thank you for posting this and your excellent explanation of each step, along with citing your quotes and stuff. Mahalo plenty!
WHY would u want any artificially inseminated queens when u clearly want to save and supprt the bee population, its contradictive and goes against nature. Just NO to anyone who dont do this the natural way its just facepalm tbh. cut away all the fake stuff, specially when u deal with bees, there can, and is, stuff u use to inseminate in one way or another that will alter the queen a tiny bit.
I respectfully disagree. There is actually nothing natural about having honey bees in this country. They are not native. Adding desirable traits to your stock by bringing in different genetics can be advantageous if done mindfully. Although not usually done artificially, look at crosses in the human race. If you are in to reading bee books, check out what Brother Adam writes about mixing races in "Beekeeping At Buckfast Abbey.
@@stevenb2022 I am very thankful that we don't have them.
The area I live in has mostly Africanized wild bees. The African bee gene is very dominate. So AI is idea if I’m making my own queens and want to avoid breeding the Africanized gene.
I agree.
@@bobbinnie9872 they've been here for about 400 years though so that point is irrelevant. They're natural to the environment at this point. They can and do survive in the wild.
Not only do you explain what you do, but most importantly, you explain the WHY. Thank you. Definitely a part of my “saved” library!
Thanks
I'm so thankful for all these guys and those that started doing this many, many years ago. Helping get bees propagate and giving new people the opportunity to continue the art of beekeeping.
So happy when you’re videos pop up in my feed
Makes me happy too. I enjoy doing them, it's my new hobby.
probably the best tutorial ever on queen raising; thank you so much for putting all those parts together. so many doubts i had you just cleared. thanks again and cheers from southern france
Thank you.
Bob - this was one of the most helpful videos I have seen on the subject of raising your own queens. You provided a huge resource to us viewers on this one. Thank you so much. You perspective on the whole spectrum of beekeeping is one of the most enjoyable and practical ones I have found and I find myself constantly referring to information that you have put out. So many people put up opinions based on only experience, but you link knowledge and solid science with your experience and that provides me and my operation with an invaluable resource. Thank you so much!
Thanks for the comment.
Wow what a great video but at this point I am not ready for all this . I have a great man that I am purchasing all my supplies from at this time but down the road I may try this . I am trying to watch all your videos. I would love to have one of your nuc boxes they look very well built . Please keep up all these great video. Thanks Gene
Great video Bob, thank you.
I agree totally with the open brood to keep the bees producing
I do it by inserting continuous grafts, never letting the girls shut down
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. You did a excellent job producing this video very easy to understand and covered each step thoroughly. ☆☆☆☆☆
Thanks.
Imagine trying grafting process after you had one to many cups of coffee bet your hands would shake really bad when you work on something that small. Amazing video love the amounts of usable information and quotes. That trailer is awesome 😎
Excellent treatise on the whole process! Thank you for posting it.
Thanks.
Thanks for the encouragement Bob. I will be giving this a try as a second year BeeKeeper. Help me understand why a cell starter is not a good cell finisher? Why does adding a Queen to a cell starter, which is what you are doing by removing the double screen board and replacing with an excluder, improve their performance in finishing a Queen cell? I like that you can split a double box and make it into a cell producer.
Cell starters in emergency mode will start a large number of cells but for some reason will often not finish high numbers well. When given cells above an excluder queen-rite colonies must go into swarm or supersedure mode and finish cells well. To be honest it's amazing to me that it works so well.
@@bobbinnie9872 Would be interesting for someone to compare quality stock queens raised in a cell starter to those raised in a queen-rite cell finisher. I'm curious to know if the bees only focus on the queen cells in a cell starter that they determine to be the strongest or most viable.
No response needed. Just posting a thought. May be a good research project for a college student.
@@bobbinnie9872 What a great day Bob, 15 out of 20 on my first graft have taken, Thanks again.
Bob, Excellent video! You go the extra mile to describe the entire process in detail which will help newbees take the challenge of raising queens. This method is similar to the Cloake Board method which I used to use. Last summer I tried your double screen (Snelgrove board) method and it worked well. I am a big fan of the double screen board and have found it has many uses. I understand why the incubator is used and I have one myself, but for simplicity why not move the capped cells to their mating nucs instead? Especially after June 21st (summer solstice) when the temperature is warm. I hear they move 48 hour cells to mating nucs. Most backyard beekeepers don't own an incubator. Thanks Again for the GREAT video.
We have done that at times in the past. Currently, we are making up our nucs one day before the cells are ripe and installed . You might enjoy "48 Hour Old Queen Cell Experiment". ua-cam.com/video/oETwqBzeD5s/v-deo.html
Hi Bob, and thanks for another great and highly informative video.
I have a couple questions regarding the timing box.
In order to have nothing on the frame, when it is polled, other than larvae that are at the perfect grafting age, why not remove the queen from the area of that frame after 24 hours, so that three days later when the frame is removed, you will have nothing on that frame for grafting other than larvae that are 1 to 24 hours old?
Question two is probably because I am a little confused about the ideal time to graft a larvae. I thought the ideal was 12 hours old. Seems like you are pulling that frame on day five, when it will have a mixture of everything from one day old eggs to two day old larvae. Some of your targets will be still eggs, and about half of the larvae will be a little older than ideal, no?
Thanks, great video. Good to see another way of producing queens.
Thanks.
To the person saying they got Africanized queens from Alabama I won't contest the fact that you got a queen that was hot but I will contend that she was NOT Africanized. For a time I worked part time for the Alabama state entomology department, checking the Alabama Gulf Coast for Africanized swarms. The migration of that strain NEVER reached Alabama and we checked for swarms being brought in with port traffic and along the I -10 corridor. The only time we had Africanized colonies was when a beekeeper brought in Africanized queens from central Florida and those colonies were quickly iradicated. Queens from Alabama are for the most part a good deal. Mike in LA (Lower Alabama)
Great video and details of the reasons why you create good queens, specially the information about breeder queen restriction. Do a very similar process except with cloake boards. I smiled at the t-shirt landing board. Thanks for taking your time to make such a vibeeo.
Thank you.
Great video, thank you for sharing this knowledge!
Great instruction video. Looking forward to see a video when you receive your Karnelian queens (per your prior video few weeks ago) and what you will do with them.
Thanks.
Excelente process
Thank you.
What a great video! Really like your setup. I hope to be grafting my own queens in the next few years. This is my first year with bees. Where do you get your breeder queens from?
Shibu's Website address is www.tworivershoneybees.com/ and email is tworivershoneybees@gmail.com.
Excellent video, I really appreciate the effort you put into your content. I always learn something watching your channel. Thank you.
Thanks.
Thanks Bob, you're a skilled educator and I appreciate your time in sharing your wisdom so enthusiastically. It's interesting to see alternative ways to do something.
Is there any reason you don't use a Cloake board? There seems to be quite a lot of work, including handling the queen, to manipulate the hive. Down here in Australia it would seem Cloake boards would be more popular. I'm currently doing some work with a breeder and run around 250 builders on Cloake boards. I'm personally just making the transition from amateur to professional beekeeping, so it's excellent experience.
Personally I use the JZ-BZ cell cups, but found I would sometimes damage the cell taking it off the bar. This season I ripped down the bars to make them narrower and allow the flange on the bottom of the cup to be more easily gripped. Could be something to look into to assist with cell harvesting.
Thanks for the tip on the cell bars. I didn't think of that, I guess it was too simple. I've tried cloak boards but still prefer divider boards. Thanks.
I don't keep bees but, this was absolutely fascinating. Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it.
Sir, I have a semi-hot hive that consists of 2 deeps & 2 supers full of bees. Once I crack the open and gain access to the first brood area they’re too aggressive compared to my other colonies. I asked you a while ago if killing the queen and replacing her with another mated one would change the genetics, you said most likely in 3 weeks…. Yesterday, I finally pinched her (first time pinching one) and did a mite wash while I was at it to find a mite count of 1. It was suggested to requeen this hive using a Nuc but I’ve never seen an example of how to do it. Do you have a video on how or point me in the right direction please? I have bad ADHD and prefer illustrations or videos. Once again, thank you!
Hi Jason. I don't have a video on that specifically but I believe there are some if you search online. One tip that will help with acceptance no matter how you do it is to move the colony to another spot in your apiary so they will lose the field force. Perhaps to a position where they will fly into neighboring colonies. They are the most aggressive and most likely to not accept anything new. When the colony is left with only the younger bees they are much easier to get along with.
Great video Bob!! 1 of the subject question, what type of coveralls do you wear and where do you get them. Thank you for sharing your vast knowledge.
www.kelleybees.com/cotton-coveralls-without-veil.html. I like them because they are 100% cotton.
Liker-Subscriber-Notifier here. Outstanding way to do this!!! Thank You for sharing, Bob! I can see that I'll be making one of these boxes up very shortly. I'm new to beekeeping and have a lot to learn- but want to learn how to make my own queens. This is an excellent way to know for sure how old the larvae are.
Hi Joe. Watch for another short video coming out on our cell builders routine. Thanks.
My experience is 100% in agreement with the "right environment" being a critical cog in the wheel. Get that right and a marginal mother can produce superior children. Good, proper nutrition and nurturing at the first stages of life are game changing for all species and easily evidenced in bees.
Hello Mr. Binnie, I was wondering when is the best time of year to start producing queens?
Spring is the best time, but not too early. We start grafting when good numbers of drones begin to hatch.
Tank you,I will do it this way..
I wish you good luck.
I really liked the video. Do you have a video about your double screened board used? Thanks
Splitting Using a Double Screen Board: ua-cam.com/video/Z62UwOLfdMo/v-deo.html
How To Make Double Screen Boards: ua-cam.com/video/w3-wqwbfeE4/v-deo.html
Another good video! I have only been getting 50-60% take on my grafted cells and wasn’t sure why. I’m pretty sure it’s in the grafting process. Humidity and possibly handling of the larvae are what I’m working on. How long do you think is acceptable to have the larvae out of the colony from the time you pull the day old larvae out until they’re grafted and set in the cell builder? Thanks Bob
A long time, as long as the humidity is right. Keep them covered with a warm, damp towel when moving. Temperature isn't quite as important as long as it's not too hot.
Intressantes Video vorallen Schöne Detail Aufnahmen 👍
Danke
great infor. alway learn something . thanks
Thanks.
Does the upper floor that contains the queen have an opening at the back when the double screen panel is placed on it?
Yes.
Bob,
I read on another video that you buy some queens from Florida. Do you only use Carniolans in your hives? Also, how many times a day do you get stung? Amazing to see how gentle your bees are. This video has encouraged me to try this myself. Thank you.
The queens we're currently buying in Florida are mostly used for nuc production, packages and store queen sales. For the most part we have started using cells and queens produced by us in our own outfit. Our breeders are Caucasian and we are trying to get as much of that as possible into our colonies although it's taking awhile. Some days we get only a couple of stings and some days we get a couple dozen.
@@bobbinnie9872 Thank you!
Hello bob I met you in 2022when you came to be the speaker for Surry county beekeepers association,that was a great meeting.I know this video is two years old,but I have a question.First I want to tell you that I am a four year old beekeeper I want to start grafting my on qeens for 2023, so my question is if you take your mating nucs away from your main apiary like it shows at the end of the video how does your queens get mated or does the nucs produce enough drones for the queens to get mated?
We always place our nucs within flying distance of large yards that have the drone stock we want to mate with. Our favorite spot is near three yards, between 1/2 and 1-1/2 miles all in different directions.
@@bobbinnie9872 what if you only have 1 bee yard? Can you have mating Nucs in the single bee yard?
@@pjlindiana Yes. It's not as ideal but it can work.
Hi, Bob, great video. A question for you. When is the best time in the bee year to produce queens? When is too early and when is too late. I understand that exact dates vary based on local conditions, but what conditions should we watch for in determining breeding times. Also, do you need a full 8 or 10 frame colony, or can you produce fewer queens using 5 or 6 frame multi-story nucs? I am one of those who has been intimidated by the whole process. I’m taking your advice to heart. The only way to get started is to start and the only way to learn is to try. Thanks for this and all of your videos. Stu
Hi Stu. The absolute best time for producing queen cells is during swarming season. That's when colonies are really ready to make cells and is usually when they're in their peak condition. That being said you can make them anytime the drone population is good enough for mating and the weather is good enough. Many people try to early. The bees wait until they have hatching drones and so do we. Good luck.
Great video, but I think you should have to mention after one get 10,30, 50, 100 queen cells, will need the same number of equipment ( boxes, matting nucs and resources ) to make any use of these queen cells, I mean, what you going to do with this many queen cells if one can't make it hatch and mate?! This year I grafted over 100 queens and sold about 75/80% some I kept, some never made back.
Good point. There is always something I forget to say. Thanks.
Hello Bob. Is there an entrance in the double screen board in the back so that the bees in the upper box can get out during the cell building process?
Yes, there is an entrance in the rear for the upper story.
Bob, great video, you are a star!
How long do you leave the queens in your mating nucs? Thanks
At least three weeks. Video on this coming out on 2-28-21
@@bobbinnie9872 Thanks Bob, will be watching. You must be cramped getting all these videos out but it's appreciated. Thanks
Hello Bob! Thank you for your informative video. I have a question if you don’t mind: how often can you flip the starter-finisher system to raise more cells frames? Thank you! Nicolas
Hi Nicolas. It can be done over and over but the colony becomes depleted eventually if not given extra brood. We like to use a colony, then use another for the next round, and then go back to the original for the round after that. It gives a colony a chance to readjust and become somewhat normal before using again. And as I mentioned, if you would like to boost them with a frame or two of sealed brood from other colonies each time they will stay "up" indefinitely.
Thank you Bob!! Your videos are wonderful. I am a professional beekeeper in Lebanon, and I’m really learning a lot from you! Especially the double screen board which I asked my workers to start producing so we can use them in the coming season🙂 Best wishes! Nicolas
Thanks for the informative video. I read the slide about using an incubator, but still have a question. Once they're capped and you take them out of the finisher, how long before they hatch? Can you take them straight to a mating nuc without putting them in a incubator?
The time it takes to hatch after putting them in the incubator depends on how old they are when we take them out of the finisher.We like to introduce cell s when they are ripe and will hatch within 24 hours but but don't like to leave them in the finisher until that time incase something goes wrong. You could take the cells straight to the nuc without using the incubator if you want too but there is a greater chance of problems occuring.
Bob, do you have any rules/guidelines for which hive you choose to be a starter/finisher? Does it have a young Queen ? Thank you
We pay more attention to how robust a colony is rather than the age of the queen. If they are healthy and full of young bees they are a candidate.
@@bobbinnie9872 Thank you!
How long in the season can I make queens and split hives as long as I feed them down here in Texas?
As long as the drone population and the weather is good enough you can do it. Stimulative feeding can keep the colonies producing drones longer.
Can the cell protector bars you use, be purchased somewhere? Or do you make them yourselves? You mentioned each bar holds 20 cells. Just wondering, thank you Bob!!
Mann Lake sells plastic and wood cell cup bars.
@@bobbinnie9872 thank you Bob. I searched Mann Lake before asking you since I knew you were a ML dealer. Only showed the orange protector cups. Tried again and found the bars. Sorry I bothered you, but thank you again!!!
Did you make the queen frames for the cups? Or were they bought? If you made them do you have a video on that? Thanks.
We purchased the frames we're currently using but have made them in the past. They're not hard to make and you start with a regular frame and tweak it.
@@bobbinnie9872 what are they called? Or a link? I’ve figured things out all my life, at this age i buy a lot lol
@@phillipwills9728 www.mannlakeltd.com/honey-bees/queen-rearing/queen-rearing-frame/
When you have your queen ready for her mating flight, how do you insure she is bred by the drones you want and not from some drones from the wild?
We try to saturate the area with our own drones with surrounding yards but of course there is no guarantee. There is always the possibility of other drones in the area from other beekeepers.
Bob, this video by far is the best that I’ve ever seen on grafting. My hat is off to you! I only try to keep 5 to 7 hives as a hobby to produce honey for my immediate family and a few friends. I’ve only bought 1 nuc and 1 other queen so at this point I don’t see myself doing any grafting but I will definitely remember this video incase I decide to give it a try. Thanks for your videos and I can’t wait to taste your sourwood honey in about one week.
Thanks.
I've watched a bunch of other queen rearing videos just to get people's perspectives, but I got way more out of this one than out of all the other ones put together. So far I've watched it twice and I keep getting more out of it. Bob is an incredible professional and an incredible teacher. The information is so dense that it took me a couple of hours to watch it, because I kept having to pause the video and absorb what he just said before moving on to the next piece of information. I almost never take notes, but I've taken 4 pages of notes. Thank God for Mr. Binnie and for UA-cam. This is priceless.
Thanks for the comment, it came at a time when I was wondering if I should keep trying to make these videos.
@@bobbinnie9872 Then I'm glad I expressed myself. Please keep making them!
@@bobbinnie9872 please don't stop making videos!
@@bobbinnie9872 yes Bob please keep making videos. You have soooooo much knowledge and I’m sure there’s thousands of other beekeepers that are depending on learning as much as possible from you. I know I am!!! Thank you for all the videos you have done so far and please continue!! Lorie
I as well, I have watched 3 times already and am watching again.
I don’t know about the rest of you however I have a lot to learn and am very grateful to those like Bob that are willing to share their experiences and knowledge 👍
Thank.
Bob, I actually have a video request. UA-cam has videos on starting a successful business, and videos on beekeeping; but very few that put the two things together. If you had the chance to talk to your younger self from 45 years ago, wanting to make your living from beekeeping, I bet you could say a lot about both. If you can this winter, would you mind doing a long video on that topic? In fact, you could probably do a series. I bet a lot of people would benefit. I sure would!
I keep bees because I love working bees. To me, the business side of what I want to do is boring. But I know that it's absolutely critical if I want my bees to feed my kids and pay my bills. So I devour all the good advice I can get.
Sean Govan
Honeydrop Farm
Just did my first graft with 45 cells using mostly this method. Thank you Bob for this and all your videos. AMAZING!!!
Ever so gently “nervous laugh” pick up the queen LOL
Ian I see you have watched this video more than once also. lol This makes my fourth or fifth time. :-)
Right 1.200 bucks yikes ...great video tried this method back in September made couple grand quick ...
Great video! You give wonderful information and always positive and encouraging
I have tried and all work just fine. For first attempt 9 from 15. I hope next round will be even better😊 Thanks, Bob Binnie! You made my day!
I really enjoy your videos. You have the calm, clarity, speaking voice and general demeanor of a VERY good teacher. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Defiantly one of the best if not the best video on Queen rearing I have seen, very concise and full of information. Thank You Bob.
The Canadian Beekeeper Ian Steppler has a very good video on this too but his technique is different.
I watch Ian a lot and his technique is excellent. Thanks.
Kind of you to say Truth Seaker🥂
If you watch Bobs Technique, and watch mine, you see all those basics that we are targeting, but our process is different because we manage different conditions and need to satisfy different requirements .
Excellent content Bob❤️👍🇨🇦
@@aCanadianBeekeepersBlog Well said, Thanks
@@aCanadianBeekeepersBlog oh come on Ian! This is the internet, you're supposed to say Bob's method is wrong since he doesn't do it exactly the same as you. Enough of this "different conditions" palaver...
Back in reality, it's really nice to see the two best Beekeeper’s Mentors on UA-cam supporting each other.
You are in completely different environments, but apply deep logic to the conditions to get amazing results, and really explain your reasoning clearly enough that we can understand the principles and be able to apply them to a different environment.
Thank you both!
I LOVE how you quote researchers and use strong science in your operation. Seems like a lot of beekeepers buy into myth and legend more than they should. Keep it up!
A greatly detailed video that made me excited to try crafting my own queens! We lost a few last year. I want to start learning on how to make my own. It will save a lot of money for sure. Thank you Bob for taking the time to teach us👍
You like the Bob Ross of bees calm and intelligent. Glad you are taking the time to make these videos really appreciated
A little cloakish a lil Palmer..guess it's Binnie lol I Like it Bob, Good Method!!
As long it doesn't sound like a lil BS I'm OK. Thanks.
@@bobbinnie9872 lol😂😂😂 Your Very Intelligent Bob,I'd Never insult you,best Gem on You Tube, I see people are starting to see what I noticed right from the start! Take care man!
Hello Bob. This is my third or fourth time watching this video now. Same goes for your series with Chris Werner & family... There is so much quality information. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos!
Not sure why im using this comment box to admit this but i just think bob is such an inspiration to beekeeping. His methods of delivering information and devoted efforts to add in credible texts in his videos goes unmatched. I have learned much over the years from your videos sir and while i explore other beekeepers online i always come back to you. Stay diligent my friend you help so many keepers of bees. Cheers
Justin, Canada Alberta
Thanks and stay warm up there.
Hello. Bob.
I just started beekeeping 2 months ago and would like to mimic how you do it in my apiary in Korea.
And thanks for what you said.
It encourages me alot.
Skill will come with time,
skill comes with practice.
Last of all,
thank all of you for taking the time out of your life to make informative videos about beekeeping and to share your experience.
You are the mentor every beek needs and rarely gets. I know your time is precious and am grateful for your first hand knowledge and experience. Loved the references also. Thanks to UA-cam, you won't have to spend your retirement writing a book! (Though we all would benefit from that too!)
Thank you.
Bob. This is absolute gold, for a guy like me, just starting my grafting career. Thank-you so much for putting together such a great video on your process. Sadly, I can only click "like" once.
Thank you.
You have exceptional teaching manner, easy to understand and pleasant voice calming example in Presence of your students and bees. Thank you ,you help so many more than you will ever know by your videos contributions.
Thanks Bob my 1st attempt at grafting your way this week and got 21 out of 30 so a big 👍to you and your team. Cheers Dan from Aussie land 🍻🍻
Hey I have to say thank you for teaching/ showing how to use the double screen board for splitting hives. It works like a charm and the success rate for accepting a new queen is 100%, which is much better than my previous method that I use. I live in Oregon and we have about a hundred hives and I would like to increase that to 300. My issue is always in the winter where 30% of my hives die sometimes. I would like a video how you overwinter bees in a climate like Oregon. Thanks Bob!
May I ask what is the cause of your winter losses? I assume that it's not the sub-zero temps. The double dividing board is a great tool for many things.
@@russellkoopman3004 so about 15-20% of the hives die by October 25 due do absconding, wasps and honey bees robbing. The other 10-15% die due to mites... I think due to having lots of wasps honey bees abscond...
I'm hoping to have time to make a video on prepping for winter. I used to live in Oregon and overwintered OK. The region I'm in now isn't much different for overwintering and we do OK as long as we do everything I know we should do. That's the trick, finding the time to do everything I know we should do.
@@bobbinnie9872 Will be looking forward to your video on overwintering, this video was excellent 👏 filled with knowledge thank you for the effort
@@JamesBakerOhio Thanks.
Hello, I live in Turkey. I am a beekeeper as a hobby. I have about 20 hives. I have been producing my own queen bees for 2 years. this year I applied a method similar to yours. but there are very important details in your method that will increase success. I follow your videos with pleasure and interest. I learned a lot from you. thank you very much for everything. I wish you continued success.
Thank you.
Maybe there's a reason artificially inseminated queens get superseded more often than naturally mated queens. Maybe the bees know better than people which cells make the better queens. It happens for a reason even if we don't know what that reason is. Just a thought that comes to mind.
Bob, I have gone back and looked at his numerous time now. I appreciate it as I'm now confident enough to try my hand at it myself now. God bless you and keep doing what you're doing. It does help others I promise!
Bob
You mentioned you didn't know why you have seen so many views on this episode. It's because guys like me have re-watched it so many times, capturing every detail of this method. It's practical, efficient and effective. Have you stopped to think that people who have not been born yet will be watching your work?
Randy
That would be something for sure.
Hi Bob! I have watched this video many times and written down step by step your procedure. I am ready to try queen rearing for the first time using your method. I do not have a mating yard. I would like to know if I can create the mating nucs and set them up in the same apiary/backyard.
Yes we do it often. When doing this we make the nucs up with plenty of extra young nurse bees shaken off open brood that will stay put.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and wisdom with other beekeepers
I am a new beekeeper and have been attempting to catch swarms in western Washington. If this doesn't work, i will be purchasing packages next spring from local apiaries. I thank you for your videos and your knowledge sir. I have watched many videos and taken courses prior to getting the bees. I have finally collected enough materials and equipment to feel secure for the first year. We watch your equipment building videos too as my husband is a carpenter and is teaching me to make our own equipment. Your are a wonderful teacher and your knowledge and teaching style is amazingly easy to follow and understandable. Thank you, thank you. Maybe a mentorship program would be a next step for you?
Hi Bob
You are doing a fantastic job
Up to now you have given the best commentary about Queen rearing especially the humility factor etc,
I’m in the U.K. so weather is not the best early on in the year,
Il have to sort an area up that can be used to start Queen rearing
I like how you split up the frames, Iv not seen this way before
If you can make more videos that would be fantastic
Keep up the good work sir
You make such great educational contenta about beekeping. I am really glad i found your channel.
Bob, one step that I didn’t see mentioned is about placing new cups into colony to be polished. Is this a step that is not necessary? Great video-I will be using the info to use on my first grafting soon.
Thank you for taking the time to put these together and share your knowledge and expertise.
We use them straight away without pre polishing. Many commercial queen producers I know do the same with good results. Thanks.
Bob I’m new only 4 years of keeping.
I’m watching and you’re saying you you leave the queen for four days between the queen of splitters. Then you know you have one day old larvae. Does she not late for those other three days?
She does continue laying but in this case you would only use the larger larvae present. Most would actually still be eggs. You can also take the barrier queen excluders out and let her move around again after she has laid on your grafting frame.
Thank you kindly
Super excellent tutorial video
Appreciate
Thanks for the video. With your help and others I successfully grafted my first queens this year.
Thanks a lot for this video. very interesting.
Even though I've been rearing queens for a while. I still like watching these how to's. There were a few tricks I'd not heard before.
How many minutes do we have from pulling larvae frame,grafting, and getting in starter box?
Although we may do it in ten minutes you can take longer if the room is warm and humid.
Really appreciate the education Bob, Your wood shop is very impressive. I have to battle my wife just to have half the garage for my box building. Great videos thank you.
I'm lucky enough to have a business that allows me to do these things.
Hi bob way should you use the incubator? Is there any advantage rather than keep it in finishing box and before queens come out i will tick it out
The main reason is to keep the cells safe. The longer they are in the colony the bigger the chance of something going wrong. It also allows the colony to get back to normal quicker.
Thanks for the video with step by step information making it clear
Excellent 🙏😅
Hello. one question please!! I need a few only queen cells, about 20. Can i use the queenless colonie, as a starter and as a finisher, or it is better to use a queenright colonie as a finisher? Thanks
You can use a queen-less starter to finish cells. The difference is that it works well only one, or possibly two times because the nurse bees begin to get to old.
Have you tried re-queening up the excluder in the honey super with cell protector? Allows the virgin more time to “get stronger” before she zooms through the excluder to find the original queen and knock her off
We do it in New Zealand .. works
Great videos guys!
I have not. I've tried it without an excluder with mixed results. Your idea makes sense, I'll have to try it. Thanks.
As always excellent video I really appreciate you taking the time. I know with as many bees as you have you don't have much time. I always learn something from you each time. Keep them coming there a great joy and help.
Thanks.
I love your videos. Very informative and helpful. Great work and thank you!
I always noticed some bee keepers work without gloves.just curious how many dozens of stingers do you pull out at the end of the day
Some days none, other days a dozen or more. We have fairly gentle bees so we don't have major issues with stinging.
One of the best methods for raising queen cells, and one of the best videos on the matter i've seen, thx Bob
Excellent Video. How do you get a frame polished for your confined queen to lay into?
We give them to a hive in a position where they will clean it and hopefully not fill it. We tend to use the same few frames over and over. We wash them out with a hose and warm water before giving them to a colony for a day or two.
@@bobbinnie9872 Thank you Bob. I'm guessing by position you mean into the brood nest so they prepare it for the queen to lay?
@@JosiahGarber One of our favorite places to hold a frame before isolating the breeder queen on it is actually on the far side of the box the breeder queen is in.
@@bobbinnie9872 Thank you, that's helpful.
I intend to start with ten hives .Incase i get only one hive occupied with bees ,are you telling me i can multiply my bees to have all the hives occupied
You can split many times if conditions are right and you are willing to invest in feeding if needed.
@@bobbinnie9872 Thank you Sir for your prompt replies.Yours is turning out to be one of my favorite channels on UA-cam.Am your new subscriber
I've split 5 into 11 in past 3 weeks (thanks to your double screen board method) and hoping to take on grafting this yr.....gonna watch this video over and over till I muster up faith....pray for me:)
I appreciate the encouragement you display in your videos. Your voice is easy on the ears and it’s a channel grand children can watch, they love the bees.
Thanks you for interesting video! Hope your bees are doing well! Hi from Belarus bee's forests!
I thoroughly enjoyed this video. Thank you for posting this and your excellent explanation of each step, along with citing your quotes and stuff. Mahalo plenty!