@@hotactioncustoms7008 if you can follow pretty basic instructions from an outboard motor repair manual you can also get some pretty badarse outboards for dirt cheap too.. Luckily I went to school for motorcycles and marine engines but was doing it long before I went to school for it. I've built some awesome modded V6 Merc outboards for next to nothing, running and needing work or rebuilding. I really need to get unlazy about doing glass work cause I found an awesome mod-vp tunnel-vee hull, so if I get busy I'll have a 100+mph "family" boat again this summer.. $1200 for the boat, motor and trailer I will actually come out ahead after selling the 200hp Merc outboard sitting on the back of it! Great video, and thanks for the inspiration!
I agree that's the who reason y I started restoring my own boats was because i couldn't afford a new one so in order to have a peice of mind I built my own
@@hotactioncustoms7008 Do you have a good connection for your supplies and that Coosa you use? I was pricing stuff today and dang its high. I have a 1970 Mitchell V Hull that I am going to be replacing the Transom on.
No not really I get all my stuff from Marine Trading Post tho and the folks are really good to deal with and know there stuff they have everything youd need if your in the SWFL area
Hi. Ya 2x's are thee best did one boat with three quarter inch ply . When i weent to butt the floor up , had no place to screw to so had to add . Now i just go with 2x's all the time. Just finished fiber glassing the floor in my 18 foot campion, now back to grinding the floor nice and flat lol.
Yeah, except for when you don't want to have the hull weighing hundred's of pounds more, especially important on anything go-fast, or like most boats out there that are severely underpowered. 3/4" exterior plywood, sealed properly obviously for stringers and half inch plywood for the floor and using thickened resin/putty on top of the stringers to bond them to the floor is far better with most boats. Gotta remember, even bass boats are for the most part pad-vee performance type hulls, let alone the numerous other performance type boats out there and weight makes a HUGE difference in how well they drive and handle. Just something to think about depending on what boat you're restoring.
MIGHT BE A DUMB QUESTION. BECAUSE I ONLY HAVE LOWES AND HOME DEPOT AVAILABLE WHAT TYPE OF WOULD WOULD I BUY FOR STRINGERS AND DECK. OLD STUFF IN MY 79 CENTURION WAS 3/4 DECK AND STRINGERS. FIRST TIME BUYING WOOD FOR A BOAT SO I WANT TO MAKE SURE I GET THE RIGHT STUFF. THANK YOU WAS LOOKING ALL OVER UA-cam FOR VIDEOS LIKE YOURS. MY GO TO CHANNEL FROM NOW ON !!!!!!! GREAT WORK
Marine plywood is the best but even then marine ply from the big box stores ain't the best. But that being said what I used in this boat is just some cheap pine 2x4 and 2x6 for my stringers. If you seal it up good you wont have problems but if you do happen not to seal it up properly it will rot faster then marine plywood.
Exterior grade plywood uses the same glue as the rediculously expensive marine plywood, marine plywood just has any voids filled, which on a little 10ft wooden racing hydroplane is super important, but for structural stuff inside a fiberglass hull why waste the money, ESP since everything will be sealed up with resin and fiberglass..
Hey buddy what do you know about leaving a gap at the joint between the bottom of the stringer and fiberglass hull, the stringer being in contact directly to the hull floor does not cause stress on hull and cracks overtime? Thank you
ive been told bolth ways and have done it bolth ways. some people die by the soward about it other people it dosent cross there mind. its up to you. I just cut some small 1/4" foam blocks and spaced the stringer up a little bit and used more peanut butter to bond it in.
Great job! How important is it that all of the strings are the same height across the top? I'm assuming very important so that the floor sits on all four stringers. How did you get them all to the right height before bonding them in?
No I used just regular yellow pine 2x6s. Only reason why is because I've heard that the liquid in the presure treatment can react with the polyester resin. But I've also heard that people use the treated stuff too. Do some reasrech before and make your own decisions. I'm just an idiot on UA-cam.
I’m curious bout the chopped fibers? If it’s jus fiberglass, has anyone tried to make their own with an old blender and scrap pieces? Or are they special fiberglass fibers?
It's a fiberglass boat hull so no Alum. But to remove the stringers I use Dimond cut off wheel (for cutting tile) and a hammer. That'll cut about any boat apart lol it's a mess
I dont know from experience but I've been told that what ever they use to treat the wood has a bad reaction with the resin and could cause delamination.
From what I've been told no. Because some thing happens between the polyester resin and the stuff that they use to treat the wood. It will cause delamination. That is what I've been told also I'm pretty sure I read it on a form aswell. Idk if epoxy is any different.
I cannot believe you'd use regular untreated lumber! I have a freedomcraft hull and I was worried about water getting in the holes where your engine stand mounts bolt on and I called the place where I got it and they said they're pressure treated. I see one of your comments to a viewer saying it won't work with the resins but how would they have done it? I know when I drilled the holes it wasn't the green treated wood you see from hardware stores. So I dono what treatment they use..
If you seal everything up properly and maintenance the boat you'll never have problem using regular wood. I'm no professional and I cant remember exactly where I heard it from but what I remember is that the polyester resin will react with the treated chemical on the wood. It could cause delamination. I'm no scientist but it made since to me. I think it was on the form Hull truth.
But if you talked with a boat manufacturer that dose it they definitely know more then me. But that being said I've cut up some production boats that looked like they had no clue about glassing.
I used "Peanutbutter". That that is is Polyester Resin mixed with Fumed Silica an 1/4" chop fibers. That all mixed togther to a Peanutbutter like consistency.
That's no problem. No a few of my videos I show how I go about making peanutbutter. It's about 1/3 each if I was to guess. I just coated the stringers in Polyester resin.
Hell yea bro keep the videos coming of this build. More people need airboats
Lol there is definitely alot of opportunitys for people to get into airboating cheap if they can do glass work.
@@hotactioncustoms7008 if you can follow pretty basic instructions from an outboard motor repair manual you can also get some pretty badarse outboards for dirt cheap too..
Luckily I went to school for motorcycles and marine engines but was doing it long before I went to school for it. I've built some awesome modded V6 Merc outboards for next to nothing, running and needing work or rebuilding.
I really need to get unlazy about doing glass work cause I found an awesome mod-vp tunnel-vee hull, so if I get busy I'll have a 100+mph "family" boat again this summer.. $1200 for the boat, motor and trailer I will actually come out ahead after selling the 200hp Merc outboard sitting on the back of it!
Great video, and thanks for the inspiration!
Looking forward to this. it is going to turn out great man. And you'll know the bones of it.
Yeah it's coming along as we speak! Hopefully done in the next couple weeks
Great job !!!!
Using 2x6 will more than replace all the longitudinal stiffness! Great plan!!
Nice and strong!
Very nice, the piece of mind know that you replaced the bad stringers is well worth extra time and money. Going to be a nice boat when you are done.
I agree that's the who reason y I started restoring my own boats was because i couldn't afford a new one so in order to have a peice of mind I built my own
@@hotactioncustoms7008 Do you have a good connection for your supplies and that Coosa you use? I was pricing stuff today and dang its high.
I have a 1970 Mitchell V Hull that I am going to be replacing the Transom on.
No not really I get all my stuff from Marine Trading Post tho and the folks are really good to deal with and know there stuff they have everything youd need if your in the SWFL area
Hot Action Fishing and Fab
Wow, I deal with them too!!
Great job Curtis!! Awesome information.
Thank you bud!
Great info Curtis on how to do boat stringers the right way. Awesome video!
Thank you!
SOLID JOB ‼️👍👍 Vinny 🇺🇸
Thank you!
Awesome! Can’t wait for your next video.
Thank you! Working on it now
You did a great job on the stringers!
Thank you! Yes there looking sweet.
Nice work. Thx.
Thank you
Hi. Ya 2x's are thee best did one boat with three quarter inch ply . When i weent to butt the floor up , had no place to screw to so had to add . Now i just go with 2x's all the time. Just finished fiber glassing the floor in my 18 foot campion, now back to grinding the floor nice and flat lol.
Yep I'm with ya 2xs are the way to go.
Yeah, except for when you don't want to have the hull weighing hundred's of pounds more, especially important on anything go-fast, or like most boats out there that are severely underpowered.
3/4" exterior plywood, sealed properly obviously for stringers and half inch plywood for the floor and using thickened resin/putty on top of the stringers to bond them to the floor is far better with most boats.
Gotta remember, even bass boats are for the most part pad-vee performance type hulls, let alone the numerous other performance type boats out there and weight makes a HUGE difference in how well they drive and handle.
Just something to think about depending on what boat you're restoring.
learning alot from your videos Curtis very helpful for the project Im doing
Awesome tjays what I like to here!
"who ever worked on this boat......" also was going through my head when i was tearing my stringers and transom on the project i bought😅
Lol its went threw my head even cutting production boats apart lol
I jus ripped out old stringers from a ‘70s glass boat. All had mat only covered stringers w/bubbles from the hard corners.
Yeah I feel like alot of production boats from the eraly 2000s and older were not built super good alot of stuff was just slapped togther.
You should make a video of how you make up that peanut butter. Like how much of each thing you use
Yeah that's a good idea I will do that!
MIGHT BE A DUMB QUESTION. BECAUSE I ONLY HAVE LOWES AND HOME DEPOT AVAILABLE WHAT TYPE OF WOULD WOULD I BUY FOR STRINGERS AND DECK. OLD STUFF IN MY 79 CENTURION WAS 3/4 DECK AND STRINGERS. FIRST TIME BUYING WOOD FOR A BOAT SO I WANT TO MAKE SURE I GET THE RIGHT STUFF. THANK YOU WAS LOOKING ALL OVER UA-cam FOR VIDEOS LIKE YOURS. MY GO TO CHANNEL FROM NOW ON !!!!!!! GREAT WORK
Marine plywood is the best but even then marine ply from the big box stores ain't the best. But that being said what I used in this boat is just some cheap pine 2x4 and 2x6 for my stringers. If you seal it up good you wont have problems but if you do happen not to seal it up properly it will rot faster then marine plywood.
Exterior grade plywood uses the same glue as the rediculously expensive marine plywood, marine plywood just has any voids filled, which on a little 10ft wooden racing hydroplane is super important, but for structural stuff inside a fiberglass hull why waste the money, ESP since everything will be sealed up with resin and fiberglass..
Hey buddy what do you know about leaving a gap at the joint between the bottom of the stringer and fiberglass hull, the stringer being in contact directly to the hull floor does not cause stress on hull and cracks overtime? Thank you
ive been told bolth ways and have done it bolth ways. some people die by the soward about it other people it dosent cross there mind. its up to you. I just cut some small 1/4" foam blocks and spaced the stringer up a little bit and used more peanut butter to bond it in.
Great job! How important is it that all of the strings are the same height across the top? I'm assuming very important so that the floor sits on all four stringers. How did you get them all to the right height before bonding them in?
I didnt have to do that with these stringers but if you look at my Johnsen skiff build series I show how I go about that process.
Hot Action, you didn't use pressure treated for the stringers.
No I used just regular yellow pine 2x6s. Only reason why is because I've heard that the liquid in the presure treatment can react with the polyester resin. But I've also heard that people use the treated stuff too. Do some reasrech before and make your own decisions. I'm just an idiot on UA-cam.
@@hotactioncustoms7008 thanks for your response. Enjoyed watching the progress. Thanks!
I’m curious bout the chopped fibers? If it’s jus fiberglass, has anyone tried to make their own with an old blender and scrap pieces? Or are they special fiberglass fibers?
I've made my own before it's just a hassle. I took csm and cut it up super fine. it worked. All it is stands of fiber glass cut into 1/4" peices.
Great videos. When you put the resin on the stringers, is that just resin, or is the hardener mixed in as well?
Its mixed with hardener. Thank you
Hey, Hot, just curious...when the next guy wants to replace the stringers, what is the process for getting them unstuck from the aluminum bottom?
It's a fiberglass boat hull so no Alum. But to remove the stringers I use Dimond cut off wheel (for cutting tile) and a hammer. That'll cut about any boat apart lol it's a mess
@@hotactioncustoms7008 Sounds good. Thanks!
Curtis what are all of the little bolts and holes all over the bottom of the hull?
That is for the poly sheet that is on the bottom of the hull. It's so the fiberglass hull is protected when running the airboat on dry ground.
Do you live in Florida I have to do this to my boat
I actually just moved about 1.5 months ago
Fixing to tackle the same thing what was your list would like to do the same thing
As in matireals and stuff???
Pressure treat or regular wood for the stringers
I dont know from experience but I've been told that what ever they use to treat the wood has a bad reaction with the resin and could cause delamination.
Hot Action Fishing and Fab kinda figured that just figured I’d ask, you know much more than me, great vids
I have a question can you use pressure treated lumber for the stringer?
From what I've been told no. Because some thing happens between the polyester resin and the stuff that they use to treat the wood. It will cause delamination. That is what I've been told also I'm pretty sure I read it on a form aswell. Idk if epoxy is any different.
Ok thank you i was just wondering because i thought it would last longer if it did get wet.
If you do it right and seal everything up properly. While properly maintaining everything you shouldn't ever have a problem with moisture.
I cannot believe you'd use regular untreated lumber! I have a freedomcraft hull and I was worried about water getting in the holes where your engine stand mounts bolt on and I called the place where I got it and they said they're pressure treated. I see one of your comments to a viewer saying it won't work with the resins but how would they have done it? I know when I drilled the holes it wasn't the green treated wood you see from hardware stores. So I dono what treatment they use..
If you seal everything up properly and maintenance the boat you'll never have problem using regular wood.
I'm no professional and I cant remember exactly where I heard it from but what I remember is that the polyester resin will react with the treated chemical on the wood. It could cause delamination. I'm no scientist but it made since to me. I think it was on the form Hull truth.
But if you talked with a boat manufacturer that dose it they definitely know more then me. But that being said I've cut up some production boats that looked like they had no clue about glassing.
Supposed of you wasn’t running a cage the 1x4’s should be plenty yeah? My 2 center stringers are going to double as a tunnel hull.
Not 100% sure what ur asking. Yeah I'd do the same thing with the 2 center stringers if I was going to build a tunnel.
You can just use fumed silica by itself? I bought 10g, seems imma need more maybe for 3 full stringers
Yes for when you fairing something out or making filets. When your looking for somthing structural you need to add in the chop fibers.
@@hotactioncustoms7008 just got that to attached the 2x6 to hull. Then 4 layers of 3 oz fiberglass over stringers
Id definitely use some kind of biaxel when your doing stringers. CSM doesn't have the strength that the Biaxel has. I like to use 1708
@@hotactioncustoms7008 biaxel cloth looking fiberglass? Thats like a 6oz . Isnt that harder to lay or get it wet?
What material did you use to bond the stringers to the boat
I used "Peanutbutter". That that is is Polyester Resin mixed with Fumed Silica an 1/4" chop fibers. That all mixed togther to a Peanutbutter like consistency.
@@hotactioncustoms7008 was there a ratio you used? Also what did you coat the side and tops of the stringers with? Sorry for all the questions
That's no problem. No a few of my videos I show how I go about making peanutbutter. It's about 1/3 each if I was to guess. I just coated the stringers in Polyester resin.
@@hotactioncustoms7008 which video can I watch to see your peanut butter resin recipe I just ordered the ingredients now I need to know your ratios
Please
Is that yellow pine?
Yes its is
If you could do that video 5 times shorter. Less talk and more show. Thank u.
Theres a skip button. Dont think to hard