Great video, thank you for clarifying my doubts! Tip: Lowering your bottom exposure time will make the removal of you print from the print bed way easier. But be careful if you lower the time to much the prints will be stuck to the FEP instead. For small/light prints you want lower bottom exposure times, and for big/heavy prints higher bottom exposure times.
Ahh good to know, we mainly use FDM printers and are admittedly a little less knowledgeable on resin printers. I'll give that a go to see if that fixes the sticking issue, thanks!
@@BrevaCreative I was having the same issue in the beginning, I was following the settings written in the bottle but those are for the older rgb screens, so everything was overexposed in consequence removing details and shortening the life of the screen. Bottom exposure settings controls the adhesion in the build plate, but if your print doesn't have enough drain holes the vacuum force will be greater and can pull off the print from the bed. So it's a fine balance... Happy printings!
Interesting. I’ve definitely bought some bad filament cutters in the past. The maker/s didn’t file down the edges where they’d be a smooth cut or remove the stringy bits. And I also had some where the cutter wasn’t deep enough, or the cutting portion seemed to be made with a single layer of filament and was flimsy. Now I know what I’ll look for if I ever want to buy anymore.
I printed some for my wife, I had some gaps/thinning appear in the perimeter of the cutter I think it was creating suction and needs to be on stands instead of being printed flat. It even left an indentation on the fep tray from the suction.
Hmm, I haven't run into that issue with mine. You may also try adjusting your bottom layer settings to have less exposure time. One thing I do on larger flat base prints is add a 1/16" half circle hole in the base to alleviate suction and allow me to remove the print easily with a toothpick or nail. Resin printing is incredibly finicky so sometimes it just takes lots of mini setting adjustments. Thanks for watching, good luck!
We use Sketchup Online to model the objects. The online version is free and has most of the tools that the paid version has. You then export that model to an .stl format that you can load into a software like Cura (also free). Cura translates the model information into a language the 3d printer can understand. Some printers will come with a program like Cura, but I recommend using Cura if possible
Wow! This was so incredibly helpful, I feel like I've been searching for this exact video for a year now. I have a creality Ender 3 Pro and just could not, for the life of me, get clean, thin lines (everything was double-walled with a tiiiny space in the middle?). Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
Awesome! Glad we could help! for your Ender, try setting your infill setting to 100% if you haven't tried that already to get rid of the gap. It'll use a little bit more plastic, but could be stronger and can help to fill in little holes. Thanks for watching!
I would like more info about the voxel mono price 3d printer. I have one and I can't figure out. What are the settings for great clay cutters? help please
Great question. The voxel is a great printer that can make some great cutters with the right settings. I'd use PLA plastic (make sure you store your PLA in a dry environment with minimal humidity). Here are the settings I use with the Monoprice Flashprint slicer software that comes with the printer: I'd experiment with layer heights, I usually start with a first layer height of .25mm and regular layer height should be small .10mm-.14mm. I set Shells to 3 or 4. Infill at 15-20%, hex pattern. Print speed I have at 62mm/s, travel speed at 82mm/s. Extruder temp 212C, Platform temp 52C. Cooling fan set to always on. If you are struggling with the prints not sticking to the print bed, adjust the temperature settings, go through the 3d printer's leveling process, and/or apply a layer of blue painters tape on the print bed surface. Hope this helps, let me know how it goes!
This is so helpful thank you! Can you show how to designed the beveled edge for the resin cutters? I’m having trouble getting my anycubic to print the sharp edges without deformities/nicks
That's definitely a downside of using resin printers for polymer cutters, it takes a lot of finessing to get a cutter that doesn't break, or chip. First thing I would suggest is print a few tests with the sharp edge at different angles. I've found with my printer that I can do a 40 degree angle without much breakage. There are also exposure settings you can play around with to help the edge be less brittle (I'm not an expert on these, and honestly havent perfected it myself). The next thing to really up your resin printing would be to upgrade your machine. I have a 4k resolution led screen on mine which is kind of the bare minimum. I wish I had forked out the extra money to get an 8k resolution machine so that it could get finer details. Hopefully that helps! Thanks for watching! 🙂
I was looking for settings to a Neptune 4Pro for printing polymer clay cutters but as a former manicurist i can tell you thst you will need a more powerful led lamp...just saying
Because sanding is a required step in finishing clay jewelry, I can't justify purchasing a much more expensive resin printer. Now if resin printers could print smaller details than filament printers I might consider the resin printer.
I'm sorry, but I think you missed the whole point of this video. Resin printers can print roughly 10x finer details than a filament printer. And using a resin cutter significantly reduces or completely negates the need for sanding. Also I've seen resin printers on fb marketplace for $60-70.
I am sorry but you are comparing apples to pears. Filament cutters can be very good but it takes time and practice and a good printer. Testing filaments, printer settings, slicer settings, etc and you can get a nice slanted edge. Yes, you cannot get them as sharp as resin ones, but from a business stand point it is not very useful to print in resin. Resin printers (especially affordable ones) have a very small print area so even though it prints faster you would have to print way more times than a fdm printer. Then, resin is toxic. You did not mention in your video, but full PPE and well ventilated area is a must. That is why (and also the fact that resin is more expensive) resin printed cutters will be significantly more expensive than FDM ones. In my opinion it is not worth it, especially since if not done correctly the thin edge can be brittle. Again, yes, some FDM cutters are pretty bad (and, even though for a first try yours look good, there are a lot of improvements that can be done), but there are a lot of very good ones. Resin printing is not as easy as it seems from your simple test :) . Here is a cutter I recently printed: drive.google.com/file/d/1Ngm1NAPltsXxWhJh85ECQrjgY4zUpQAN/view?usp=sharing (the edge at the top is 0.3mm so slightly thicker than what you can get with resin, but I assure you it cuts beautifully). And I don't sell internationally, just have a small business locally in Romania so I am not influenced by this video, but I think correct information should be given. And a bit more complete :)
Thanks for the comment, I agree that resin printing can be more tedious than your standard resin printing, and I understand from a business perspective how resin cutters would be more expensive (higher labor intensity, higher material cost, etc). But this video was just showing how resin cutters can actually make a much cleaner cut than any FDM printer, no matter how fine your slicer and printer settings are. Granted, having to sand down the edges of the polymer clay is not a huge issue, but printing with a resin printer can really help to eliminate the need for that extra step. If you're concerned with how small resin beds typically are, you may want to look into resin printer stacking where, with a little extra material, you can print multiple copies of your design using the full height and width of the resin printer. Anyways, I definitely see the value as a consumer to pay a little extra for a product that performs better and reduces the amount of steps needed to make something with polymer clay. Thanks for watching, and I appreciate your comment! 🙂
Sorry in this case you are totally wrong, if you fill the build plate area it could easily fit 15 cutters, resin printers printing 1 object or 15 takes the exact same time! So it takes less time printing 15 than a fdm printer takes to print 1... So from a business stand point it's a no brainer.
@@Wargasm1978 While you're not wrong, there are other differences between the two types of printer that make this anything but a no brainer. The resin printer might get through a full build plate in a couple of hours, but every time a print is done you need to do some clean up before you can start another one and the prints need to undergo some post processing as soon as you remove them from the printer. Consider also that resin printers are much smaller for the price than filament printers and you might see where I'm going with this. The cheapest filament printer has a build plate that is about twice as big a a resin printer that costs twice as much. It might take longer per item than the resin printer, but you can leave it alone for longer and when you get back it will have finished more and, if it's calibrated properly, you'll have no post processing to do at all. If you need to churn out a ton of short, wide objects to sell I think there's a good argument to be made for the option that can produce more things for less effort over the one that is fast but needs constant babysitting.
@@Hudston Hey Friend, yes but still... I've various magnetic flexible build plates so it only takes a minute to start another job, I also have a wash&cure station it's 10min washing + 4min curing. This is machine time, my total time moving things from machine to machine is less than 3min total + 2min if I need to airdry it. Price wise "in my case" the Halot One only cost me 115€ about 125$ I bought 2 of them, if in a 8h labor time you can make 60 pieces (with only 1 machine) vs 5 maybe 6 pieces in a fdm. So if you need to buy more than 10 fdm printers to have the same production of 1 Resin printer, guess which is the cheaper more productive route? Just to clarify the main reply post was about "from business stand point" and your answer is more from hobby/side business stand point, where a person goes to work and when it arrives have more pieces because of the larger build plate. In a FDM vs SLA battle I must agree normally the FDM wins because the variety of materials they have to print make them more versatile, even a Keychain printed in resin becomes to brittle with the use. But in this specific and rare case I think the SLA wins. I bought my machines more to print D&D figures, statues and busts. The speed, detail and finish quality makes it the best choice for me. I do have a business store but I do more laser cutting, and those machines are the ones who needs constant babysitting😁. Regards
Thanks for this. My wife wants to start using polymer clay and I want an excuse to buy a 3d printer!
Love it! 🤣
Great video, thank you for clarifying my doubts!
Tip: Lowering your bottom exposure time will make the removal of you print from the print bed way easier. But be careful if you lower the time to much the prints will be stuck to the FEP instead. For small/light prints you want lower bottom exposure times, and for big/heavy prints higher bottom exposure times.
Ahh good to know, we mainly use FDM printers and are admittedly a little less knowledgeable on resin printers. I'll give that a go to see if that fixes the sticking issue, thanks!
@@BrevaCreative I was having the same issue in the beginning, I was following the settings written in the bottle but those are for the older rgb screens, so everything was overexposed in consequence removing details and shortening the life of the screen.
Bottom exposure settings controls the adhesion in the build plate, but if your print doesn't have enough drain holes the vacuum force will be greater and can pull off the print from the bed. So it's a fine balance...
Happy printings!
This is so techy! You guys are so informative!! Keep it up!
Interesting. I’ve definitely bought some bad filament cutters in the past. The maker/s didn’t file down the edges where they’d be a smooth cut or remove the stringy bits. And I also had some where the cutter wasn’t deep enough, or the cutting portion seemed to be made with a single layer of filament and was flimsy. Now I know what I’ll look for if I ever want to buy anymore.
Yeah it can be hit or miss with filament cutters! Thanks for watching!
I printed some for my wife, I had some gaps/thinning appear in the perimeter of the cutter I think it was creating suction and needs to be on stands instead of being printed flat. It even left an indentation on the fep tray from the suction.
Hmm, I haven't run into that issue with mine. You may also try adjusting your bottom layer settings to have less exposure time. One thing I do on larger flat base prints is add a 1/16" half circle hole in the base to alleviate suction and allow me to remove the print easily with a toothpick or nail. Resin printing is incredibly finicky so sometimes it just takes lots of mini setting adjustments. Thanks for watching, good luck!
hi, does the printer come with built-in programs or do they have to be bought separately, what programs do you use to create cutters? thank you
We use Sketchup Online to model the objects. The online version is free and has most of the tools that the paid version has. You then export that model to an .stl format that you can load into a software like Cura (also free). Cura translates the model information into a language the 3d printer can understand. Some printers will come with a program like Cura, but I recommend using Cura if possible
Wow! This was so incredibly helpful, I feel like I've been searching for this exact video for a year now. I have a creality Ender 3 Pro and just could not, for the life of me, get clean, thin lines (everything was double-walled with a tiiiny space in the middle?). Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
Awesome! Glad we could help! for your Ender, try setting your infill setting to 100% if you haven't tried that already to get rid of the gap. It'll use a little bit more plastic, but could be stronger and can help to fill in little holes. Thanks for watching!
I would like more info about the voxel mono price 3d printer. I have one and I can't figure out. What are the settings for great clay cutters? help please
Great question. The voxel is a great printer that can make some great cutters with the right settings. I'd use PLA plastic (make sure you store your PLA in a dry environment with minimal humidity). Here are the settings I use with the Monoprice Flashprint slicer software that comes with the printer: I'd experiment with layer heights, I usually start with a first layer height of .25mm and regular layer height should be small .10mm-.14mm. I set Shells to 3 or 4. Infill at 15-20%, hex pattern. Print speed I have at 62mm/s, travel speed at 82mm/s. Extruder temp 212C, Platform temp 52C. Cooling fan set to always on.
If you are struggling with the prints not sticking to the print bed, adjust the temperature settings, go through the 3d printer's leveling process, and/or apply a layer of blue painters tape on the print bed surface.
Hope this helps, let me know how it goes!
This is so helpful thank you! Can you show how to designed the beveled edge for the resin cutters? I’m having trouble getting my anycubic to print the sharp edges without deformities/nicks
That's definitely a downside of using resin printers for polymer cutters, it takes a lot of finessing to get a cutter that doesn't break, or chip. First thing I would suggest is print a few tests with the sharp edge at different angles. I've found with my printer that I can do a 40 degree angle without much breakage. There are also exposure settings you can play around with to help the edge be less brittle (I'm not an expert on these, and honestly havent perfected it myself). The next thing to really up your resin printing would be to upgrade your machine. I have a 4k resolution led screen on mine which is kind of the bare minimum. I wish I had forked out the extra money to get an 8k resolution machine so that it could get finer details. Hopefully that helps! Thanks for watching! 🙂
Nice video, thanks for this compare👌is possible to take a video for a best programs for creating the clay cutting? Thanks:-)
With resin 3d printers, whambam or a similar flexible build plate makes it SO MUCH easier
Oooh thanks for the tip, it's such a pain getting prints off the bed!
@@BrevaCreative I ran one build with my Mars 2 Pro and immediately ordered a flex plate. hahah
I was looking for settings to a Neptune 4Pro for printing polymer clay cutters but as a former manicurist i can tell you thst you will need a more powerful led lamp...just saying
Yeah we recently bought an anycubic wash & cure machine because that lil guy just wasn't cutting it :)
Where did she get that blade? I need one like it
Link to the blades we used in description 😀
@@BrevaCreativethanks! Is that the exact same one? I was interested in the blue silicone cover!
@@PiggiesInTheRain Ahhh gotcha! Just added a link to the exact one we bought from Michaels 😁
@@BrevaCreative thank you!!
Because sanding is a required step in finishing clay jewelry, I can't justify purchasing a much more expensive resin printer. Now if resin printers could print smaller details than filament printers I might consider the resin printer.
I'm sorry, but I think you missed the whole point of this video. Resin printers can print roughly 10x finer details than a filament printer. And using a resin cutter significantly reduces or completely negates the need for sanding. Also I've seen resin printers on fb marketplace for $60-70.
Interesting!
Thanks!
I am sorry but you are comparing apples to pears. Filament cutters can be very good but it takes time and practice and a good printer. Testing filaments, printer settings, slicer settings, etc and you can get a nice slanted edge. Yes, you cannot get them as sharp as resin ones, but from a business stand point it is not very useful to print in resin. Resin printers (especially affordable ones) have a very small print area so even though it prints faster you would have to print way more times than a fdm printer. Then, resin is toxic. You did not mention in your video, but full PPE and well ventilated area is a must. That is why (and also the fact that resin is more expensive) resin printed cutters will be significantly more expensive than FDM ones. In my opinion it is not worth it, especially since if not done correctly the thin edge can be brittle. Again, yes, some FDM cutters are pretty bad (and, even though for a first try yours look good, there are a lot of improvements that can be done), but there are a lot of very good ones. Resin printing is not as easy as it seems from your simple test :) . Here is a cutter I recently printed: drive.google.com/file/d/1Ngm1NAPltsXxWhJh85ECQrjgY4zUpQAN/view?usp=sharing (the edge at the top is 0.3mm so slightly thicker than what you can get with resin, but I assure you it cuts beautifully). And I don't sell internationally, just have a small business locally in Romania so I am not influenced by this video, but I think correct information should be given. And a bit more complete :)
Thanks for the comment, I agree that resin printing can be more tedious than your standard resin printing, and I understand from a business perspective how resin cutters would be more expensive (higher labor intensity, higher material cost, etc). But this video was just showing how resin cutters can actually make a much cleaner cut than any FDM printer, no matter how fine your slicer and printer settings are. Granted, having to sand down the edges of the polymer clay is not a huge issue, but printing with a resin printer can really help to eliminate the need for that extra step. If you're concerned with how small resin beds typically are, you may want to look into resin printer stacking where, with a little extra material, you can print multiple copies of your design using the full height and width of the resin printer. Anyways, I definitely see the value as a consumer to pay a little extra for a product that performs better and reduces the amount of steps needed to make something with polymer clay. Thanks for watching, and I appreciate your comment! 🙂
Sorry in this case you are totally wrong, if you fill the build plate area it could easily fit 15 cutters, resin printers printing 1 object or 15 takes the exact same time!
So it takes less time printing 15 than a fdm printer takes to print 1...
So from a business stand point it's a no brainer.
@@Wargasm1978 While you're not wrong, there are other differences between the two types of printer that make this anything but a no brainer.
The resin printer might get through a full build plate in a couple of hours, but every time a print is done you need to do some clean up before you can start another one and the prints need to undergo some post processing as soon as you remove them from the printer.
Consider also that resin printers are much smaller for the price than filament printers and you might see where I'm going with this. The cheapest filament printer has a build plate that is about twice as big a a resin printer that costs twice as much. It might take longer per item than the resin printer, but you can leave it alone for longer and when you get back it will have finished more and, if it's calibrated properly, you'll have no post processing to do at all.
If you need to churn out a ton of short, wide objects to sell I think there's a good argument to be made for the option that can produce more things for less effort over the one that is fast but needs constant babysitting.
@@Hudston Hey Friend, yes but still... I've various magnetic flexible build plates so it only takes a minute to start another job, I also have a wash&cure station it's 10min washing + 4min curing. This is machine time, my total time moving things from machine to machine is less than 3min total + 2min if I need to airdry it.
Price wise "in my case" the Halot One only cost me 115€ about 125$ I bought 2 of them, if in a 8h labor time you can make 60 pieces (with only 1 machine) vs 5 maybe 6 pieces in a fdm.
So if you need to buy more than 10 fdm printers to have the same production of 1 Resin printer, guess which is the cheaper more productive route?
Just to clarify the main reply post was about "from business stand point" and your answer is more from hobby/side business stand point, where a person goes to work and when it arrives have more pieces because of the larger build plate.
In a FDM vs SLA battle I must agree normally the FDM wins because the variety of materials they have to print make them more versatile, even a Keychain printed in resin becomes to brittle with the use. But in this specific and rare case I think the SLA wins.
I bought my machines more to print D&D figures, statues and busts. The speed, detail and finish quality makes it the best choice for me.
I do have a business store but I do more laser cutting, and those machines are the ones who needs constant babysitting😁.
Regards
❤
Sugar skulls the ones on Amazon are bad.
😁