My 3/4/5 is has been in a garaged up until my e46 m3 purchase. It’s not what I want but I only have a one car garage. I might consider putting the 46 outside as the e36 is pretty damn clean. It does have a ceramic coating so I hope it’s doing okay
Curious about car washes, I use a car wash in the winter to get the salt off the bottom and it's just convenient. But I hand wash & wax in the warmer months.
Yeah, my living situation changed and I have to park my car outside and the window cowl is disintegrating from the sun (2016 F30 3-series). I've also driven on 10 mile long dirt roads, multiple times, THANKS TO the joke that is BMW navigation. Luckily the paint seems to be holding up in the sun though, at least so far.
I have e46 in great shape they r money pits if you dont fix yourself. Ive learned along the way. I just had to do most of coolant system pain in the ass. What happened is crazy I had changed the temp sensor on left side hose and it didnt click in and it was fine for 2 months. AFter I did the system I guess the new system was running better and pressure was better it popped out and started overheating and I was only maybe 100 yards away from home but I blew the the thermostat I think since car runs cold now on highway. I was so mad since was avoidable if part wasnt defective so now I have to take parts out that were out already out which means a mess coming just to do that job after all that work I just did. Frustrating as hell. Gonna just drive it since it will heat up eventually and not drive when its freezing until the Spring when I attack this all over again.
All cars can be a challenge, BMW is no different, I purposely got a white one a M135i, I think it was a Japanese first purchase, I put a ceramic coat on it myself, treated all the rubbers etc. It has to live outside, that is life. I have had it for a couple of years, seems fine apart from an ABS sensor that has randomly gone bad, left right. How hard is that to replace? Is this what you can expect from these? Great content as always, as I too try and keep what think are good cars alive. BTW I have 5 other cars...
I have been a fan for a while. Got a problem hopefully you can give me a direction to go in. Got an E38 M sport. Did the chains and guides set everything up ran perfect. And then out of the blue it appears the chain skipped a tooth on the number one bank. Everything’s new including the tensioner just can’t quite figure it out
Update: Changed out termostathousing and termostat, water pump and crank sensor, now the car does not turn off, and i bled the system, and then turned on the car and left it running for 20minutes to check if it would shut off and it did not, i did the test without the clutch fan and the cover, and the coolant temp got to 103c with the air inside the car set to max temp and the air speed set to the lowest and i shut the car off, the termostat is a 92c termostat, is this temp normal? when just sitting idlie with no fan over the radiator?, the aux fan was not on either. Going to do another test tomorrow with the clutch fan mounted and see if there is any difference in temp compared and then test with the air speed inside the car set to max and heat to max to see if that makes the coolant lower, the other option is to use a 80c termostat, but i think that will be too low. my e39 M52 single Vanos didnt pass the car controll so i had to put it on hold, 2 years later, both sides rusted out, and both floors had rusted because of water coming in either from the sunroof or the door cause broken seal, the fuel pump worked and it had abit of fuel in it, added a half a tank with condensor additive and swapped the fuel filter and had no problem with that. I welded the floor of the car and welded in a new channel on the left side. it rots fast when it sits, termostat locked up, didnt want to open., there were around 20% fluid left in the cooling loop, switched out the rad and water pump, and thermostat and houseing is on the way. Most suprising was that the battery still works after it's been sitting in the car the whole time, checked the voltage and it sits around 12,4-12,14 after troubleshooting the codes for quite a bit on and off. everything should be back to working condition, stiil got got a problem where when it got to working temp it shut down and when i tried to start it again it would run bad, 5 cylinders and die out without giving it gas. hopefully switching out the termostat and and a new crankshaft sensor will fix it, since i got crank sensor code and then both oxygen sensors but those were changed couple months ago so should just be the crank sensor that's cause the oxygen sensor codes, i got 2 maf switched them around and there were no difference and they did read on my scanner so they should be in workable condition. Also changed the hoses behind the MAF cause they were cracked. And strange enough the ring airbag that sits under the steering wheel, after sitting for 2 years got a code from it somehow, gonna disasemble it and check out the contacts reattach them and hopefully the code will go away crossing fingers. Do you think there is a different problem with my car then with what i have switched out?, when its cold it starts right up and acts all normal until it gets to normal operating temp then it shuts down. Parts ive switched out, Cam sensor, crankshaft sensor, radiator, water pump, fuel filter, MAF, both oxygen sensors, Termostat+housing, oil change, coolant change ect. There is no vacuume when taking off the oil cap to check if the ccv is clogged. I also checked all coils and park plugs, they looked good with no wet plugs or coils
These vehicles are pretty particular. I have encountered stalling problem after changing every part in vacuum system. No codes. Turns out DISA valve was open all along. Gave me 40% lean condition. Go figure
@@Aleks95 Lucky you, have one less part to worry about. If anyone else with better knowledge of older engines can chime in that might help pinpoint your issue. If you can - get a bidirectional scan tool or a good scan tool in general. And look for anything that seem to be out of order. Short term fuel trim, spark advance, how much air MAF measure, etc.
@@MegaSuperMiracle Update: Changed out termostathousing and termostat, water pump and crank sensor, now the car does not turn off, and i bled the system, and then turned on the car and left it running for 20minutes to check if it would shut off and it did not, i did the test without the clutch fan and the cover, and the coolant temp got to 103c with the air inside the car set to max temp and the air speed set to the lowest and i shut the car off, the termostat is a 92c termostat, is this temp normal? when just sitting idlie with no fan over the radiator?, the aux fan was not on either. Going to do another test tomorrow with the clutch fan mounted and see if there is any difference in temp compared and then test with the air speed inside the car set to max and heat to max to see if that makes the coolant lower, the other option is to use a 80c termostat, but i think that will be too low.
@@MegaSuperMiracle yea i do have a scan, but this older model also only has 20pin connection under the hood, not obd ll connection inside the car. so there is only so much the scanner can do monitoring, i can scan all codes and clean them, i can also view and monitor the coolant temp, maf airflow ect but since its under the hood i cant drive and check that at the same time so only stationary testings
Although I know what you're trying to say when it comes to black, I'm a spray painter and there are different blacks. Red black, green black, blue black and black black for example. Getting that wrong will be less noticeable than with other colours but it can be an issue if you're fussy.
I might add.. Use 303 or similar product , or even the newer ceramic wipe products on black trim and rubber pieces..REGULARLY! They don’t have to degrade. If you can get under your car, dress any rubber bushings wherever you can on occasion (once a year would be great!). Use 303 or a silicone based product. And if you can see bolts or nuts or screws or fuel or brake line fittings that are rusting-brush them off and hit with cosmoline spray or paint with a brush. It dries and stays put forever. The factory undercoat doesn’t cover everything.
Yeah even the premium "OEM" parts are getting pretty far from actual oem specification. A lot of new parts are practically useless. Nothing like the original build.
How to make a BMW last forever? Keep it in a temperature controlled ermetic room in a museum and sell tickets to people that wanna see it so you can pay to replace for the things that break down as it sits .
Febi also. Motor mounts were Chinese made. Left side part # went on the right side of the car, and vis versa. Another Febi part was made in the “Russian Federation”. Sure as hell not Germany.
Step 1 move out of the rust belt, step 2 fix broken stuff. If you keep throwing money at it it will last forever! The thing that kills theses cars is owners and the snowball effect, one thing breaks and they put off the repair then the next thing breaks and so on... now you have a e46 with 4k worth of repairs and they ask should I get rid of it. Parts now suck from everyone even BMW i've had at least 20 expansion tanks with defective floats inside the tank.
I totally disagree I own three BMWs and find that once you condition your clear coat properly and I use top coat to seal it I wipe my car down every morning before I go to work that takes all the Mildew and contaminates it stays like I have garage it and honestly I do not have to wash my car because of it if you don't try it you'll never know I'm telling you it works especially on water spots hard water no problem doing this every day Now we're talking five minutes of work not to have to wash your car every other day or at least once a week and it stays clean every day it's a no-brainer try it you will see the benefit I promise
If you have to put your car in your bed room it's junk. Have a 1999 f250 power stroke loves out side. 100000 + miles. 2009 bmw 73000 miles. Sleeps in the shade. New badge. P o s. Not. Bmw.
Sell it! My E90 has been the most unreliable car I've ever owned, despite extensive maintenance records and fanatical maintenance currently .. my 20yo W202 C230K Mercedes was FAR more reliable. Bmw always has the MOST expensive service, even at Indys.
@@jorgenunez2310 any bmw is the worst bmw lol should I have selected the notoriously unreliable E46,E38,F30? Maybe a POS E60 would be a better choice haha Hmm.... 4 cylinder engines with timing chains that fail , why can't they build a decent 4cyl? 8cyl engines with timing chain issues, overheating, coolant leaks galore? Or maybe a trash engine like the N54, new turbos and injectors at 70k miles? Or maybe an X5 so I can have sunroof leaks always even when new? Overpriced 🗑️ cars
The E90 is without doubt the worst BMW ever made. And to think it was made right after the what was arguably the best line up of BMW’s ever. 2001 was a great BMW year.
2004 BMW X5 260k miles and just changed the fuel pump with barely any tools and done in 15 minutes
Running like a champ
Thank you for your videos
great points.
Great video.
My 3/4/5 is has been in a garaged up until my e46 m3 purchase. It’s not what I want but I only have a one car garage. I might consider putting the 46 outside as the e36 is pretty damn clean. It does have a ceramic coating so I hope it’s doing okay
Curious about car washes, I use a car wash in the winter to get the salt off the bottom and it's just convenient. But I hand wash & wax in the warmer months.
Well said
Yeah, my living situation changed and I have to park my car outside and the window cowl is disintegrating from the sun (2016 F30 3-series). I've also driven on 10 mile long dirt roads, multiple times, THANKS TO the joke that is BMW navigation. Luckily the paint seems to be holding up in the sun though, at least so far.
I have e46 in great shape they r money pits if you dont fix yourself. Ive learned along the way. I just had to do most of coolant system pain in the ass. What happened is crazy I had changed the temp sensor on left side hose and it didnt click in and it was fine for 2 months. AFter I did the system I guess the new system was running better and pressure was better it popped out and started overheating and I was only maybe 100 yards away from home but I blew the the thermostat I think since car runs cold now on highway. I was so mad since was avoidable if part wasnt defective so now I have to take parts out that were out already out which means a mess coming just to do that job after all that work I just did. Frustrating as hell. Gonna just drive it since it will heat up eventually and not drive when its freezing until the Spring when I attack this all over again.
All cars can be a challenge, BMW is no different, I purposely got a white one a M135i, I think it was a Japanese first purchase, I put a ceramic coat on it myself, treated all the rubbers etc. It has to live outside, that is life. I have had it for a couple of years, seems fine apart from an ABS sensor that has randomly gone bad, left right. How hard is that to replace? Is this what you can expect from these? Great content as always, as I too try and keep what think are good cars alive. BTW I have 5 other cars...
I have been a fan for a while. Got a problem hopefully you can give me a direction to go in. Got an E38 M sport. Did the chains and guides set everything up ran perfect. And then out of the blue it appears the chain skipped a tooth on the number one bank. Everything’s new including the tensioner just can’t quite figure it out
Remove the cam sensor and see if the cam phaser bolt is loose
Nathans BMW Workshop Thanks I’ll do that right away
Update: Changed out termostathousing and termostat, water pump and crank sensor, now the car does not turn off, and i bled the system, and then turned on the car and left it running for 20minutes to check if it would shut off and it did not, i did the test without the clutch fan and the cover, and the coolant temp got to 103c with the air inside the car set to max temp and the air speed set to the lowest and i shut the car off, the termostat is a 92c termostat, is this temp normal? when just sitting idlie with no fan over the radiator?, the aux fan was not on either. Going to do another test tomorrow with the clutch fan mounted and see if there is any difference in temp compared and then test with the air speed inside the car set to max and heat to max to see if that makes the coolant lower,
the other option is to use a 80c termostat, but i think that will be too low.
my e39 M52 single Vanos didnt pass the car controll so i had to put it on hold, 2 years later, both sides rusted out, and both floors had rusted because of water coming in either from the sunroof or the door cause broken seal, the fuel pump worked and it had abit of fuel in it, added a half a tank with condensor additive and swapped the fuel filter and had no problem with that.
I welded the floor of the car and welded in a new channel on the left side. it rots fast when it sits, termostat locked up, didnt want to open., there were around 20% fluid left in the cooling loop, switched out the rad and water pump, and thermostat and houseing is on the way. Most suprising was that the battery still works after it's been sitting in the car the whole time, checked the voltage and it sits around 12,4-12,14 after troubleshooting the codes for quite a bit on and off. everything should be back to working condition, stiil got got a problem where when it got to working temp it shut down and when i tried to start it again it would run bad, 5 cylinders and die out without giving it gas. hopefully switching out the termostat and and a new crankshaft sensor will fix it, since i got crank sensor code and then both oxygen sensors but those were changed couple months ago so should just be the crank sensor that's cause the oxygen sensor codes, i got 2 maf switched them around and there were no difference and they did read on my scanner so they should be in workable condition. Also changed the hoses behind the MAF cause they were cracked.
And strange enough the ring airbag that sits under the steering wheel, after sitting for 2 years got a code from it somehow, gonna disasemble it and check out the contacts reattach them and hopefully the code will go away crossing fingers.
Do you think there is a different problem with my car then with what i have switched out?, when its cold it starts right up and acts all normal until it gets to normal operating temp then it shuts down.
Parts ive switched out, Cam sensor, crankshaft sensor, radiator, water pump, fuel filter, MAF, both oxygen sensors, Termostat+housing, oil change, coolant change ect. There is no vacuume when taking off the oil cap to check if the ccv is clogged. I also checked all coils and park plugs, they looked good with no wet plugs or coils
These vehicles are pretty particular.
I have encountered stalling problem after changing every part in vacuum system. No codes. Turns out DISA valve was open all along. Gave me 40% lean condition. Go figure
@@MegaSuperMiracle my engine is the m52b20 verison, older than the m52b20tu, so that particular valve is not there
@@Aleks95 Lucky you, have one less part to worry about.
If anyone else with better knowledge of older engines can chime in that might help pinpoint your issue.
If you can - get a bidirectional scan tool or a good scan tool in general. And look for anything that seem to be out of order. Short term fuel trim, spark advance, how much air MAF measure, etc.
@@MegaSuperMiracle Update: Changed out termostathousing and termostat, water pump and crank sensor, now the car does not turn off, and i bled the system, and then turned on the car and left it running for 20minutes to check if it would shut off and it did not, i did the test without the clutch fan and the cover, and the coolant temp got to 103c with the air inside the car set to max temp and the air speed set to the lowest and i shut the car off, the termostat is a 92c termostat, is this temp normal? when just sitting idlie with no fan over the radiator?, the aux fan was not on either. Going to do another test tomorrow with the clutch fan mounted and see if there is any difference in temp compared and then test with the air speed inside the car set to max and heat to max to see if that makes the coolant lower,
the other option is to use a 80c termostat, but i think that will be too low.
@@MegaSuperMiracle yea i do have a scan, but this older model also only has 20pin connection under the hood, not obd ll connection inside the car. so there is only so much the scanner can do monitoring, i can scan all codes and clean them, i can also view and monitor the coolant temp, maf airflow ect but since its under the hood i cant drive and check that at the same time
so only stationary testings
Although I know what you're trying to say when it comes to black, I'm a spray painter and there are different blacks. Red black, green black, blue black and black black for example. Getting that wrong will be less noticeable than with other colours but it can be an issue if you're fussy.
I might add..
Use 303 or similar product , or even the newer ceramic wipe products on black trim and rubber pieces..REGULARLY! They don’t have to degrade.
If you can get under your car, dress any rubber bushings wherever you can on occasion (once a year would be great!). Use 303 or a silicone based product. And if you can see bolts or nuts or screws or fuel or brake line fittings that are rusting-brush them off and hit with cosmoline spray or paint with a brush. It dries and stays put forever. The factory undercoat doesn’t cover everything.
Unlimited money works
acura feels pretty good at 100 mph feels like you are going 40
Common sense stuff to make your BMW hold up most people want to neglect maintenance and cry lol 😂
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
It's lonely at the top, lol :-)
Yeah even the premium "OEM" parts are getting pretty far from actual oem specification. A lot of new parts are practically useless. Nothing like the original build.
How to make a BMW last forever? Keep it in a temperature controlled ermetic room in a museum and sell tickets to people that wanna see it so you can pay to replace for the things that break down as it sits .
Febi also. Motor mounts were Chinese made. Left side part # went on the right side of the car, and vis versa. Another Febi part was made in the “Russian Federation”. Sure as hell not Germany.
Step 1 move out of the rust belt, step 2 fix broken stuff. If you keep throwing money at it it will last forever! The thing that kills theses cars is owners and the snowball effect, one thing breaks and they put off the repair then the next thing breaks and so on... now you have a e46 with 4k worth of repairs and they ask should I get rid of it.
Parts now suck from everyone even BMW i've had at least 20 expansion tanks with defective floats inside the tank.
The worst I see on my e46 is that salt is rusting away the car like crazy to the point that I fear for the longevity of my vehicle.
Illinoise? Funny
Buy it new and buy two others for spares.
I totally disagree I own three BMWs and find that once you condition your clear coat properly and I use top coat to seal it I wipe my car down every morning before I go to work that takes all the Mildew and contaminates it stays like I have garage it and honestly I do not have to wash my car because of it if you don't try it you'll never know I'm telling you it works especially on water spots hard water no problem doing this every day Now we're talking five minutes of work not to have to wash your car every other day or at least once a week and it stays clean every day it's a no-brainer try it you will see the benefit I promise
My e46 drives and runs great, but the salt in the northeast is eating it away!
i drive my z3 coupe once a month. then i wash her and put her back to bed.
If you have to put your car in your bed room it's junk. Have a 1999 f250 power stroke loves out side. 100000 + miles. 2009 bmw 73000 miles. Sleeps in the shade. New badge. P o s. Not. Bmw.
Sell it! My E90 has been the most unreliable car I've ever owned, despite extensive maintenance records and fanatical maintenance currently .. my 20yo W202 C230K Mercedes was FAR more reliable. Bmw always has the MOST expensive service, even at Indys.
Lol you bought the worst bmw 😂🗑
@@jorgenunez2310 any bmw is the worst bmw lol should I have selected the notoriously unreliable E46,E38,F30? Maybe a POS E60 would be a better choice haha
Hmm.... 4 cylinder engines with timing chains that fail , why can't they build a decent 4cyl?
8cyl engines with timing chain issues, overheating, coolant leaks galore?
Or maybe a trash engine like the N54, new turbos and injectors at 70k miles?
Or maybe an X5 so I can have sunroof leaks always even when new?
Overpriced 🗑️ cars
@@cerulariusv1098 my e90 has 280000km running like new with no engine light.
The E90 is without doubt the worst BMW ever made. And to think it was made right after the what was arguably the best line up of BMW’s ever. 2001 was a great BMW year.
@@cerulariusv1098 the V8’s do not have timing chain issues. The timing chain guides fail, not the timing chain.
Don't drove it like an idiot without proper maintenance and don't buy it if you don't have a place to put under or a garage.
I had a BMW , money pit.
If you wanted to last forever, don't use it.....🤔🤔🤔