New Proportional Divider & more - Ep.12 Oil Painting Q&A with Mark Carder
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- Опубліковано 6 сер 2024
- The new color checkers are available at genevafineart.com/proportional...
If you have a question for me, post it in the comments below. I'll answer as many as I can in the next episode. Here are links to each question answered in this video:
00:04 - introducing the new Geneva Proportional Divider
00:42 - On the Geneva Color Checker, why is the area where the paint goes tilted instead of perpendicular like the canvas?
02:09 - What is the difference between your color-mixing process in the "Poodle Head" painting demo and the process you teach students?
03:50 - When mixing colors from life, if you change the color of the light on the subject, how will this affect how the piece shows under other lighting conditions?
05:26 - Is Geneva Artists' Oil Color odorless? Can it be used to paint indoors without ventilation?
06:16 - In your "Making a Shadow Box" video, is there light in the light box on top, or does it work by indirect lighting?
07:01 - How do you know what is the right exposure when taking photographs?
08:29 - How does one figure what size to canvas to use when painting from life?
08:51 - When will the Geneva palettes be ready and what will the dimensions be?
09:26 - Could one use a mirror with a color checker to match colors of a sunset en plein air?
11:24 - Does Geneva paint get darker when it dries?
12:06 - What are the pros and cons of using a limited palette when painting flesh tones?
I just wanted to say that your videos are extremely informative and helpful!! Thank you so much for providing these tutorials to all of us. It is greatly appreciated! I've learned so much from you.
Thank you! I get so excited when I see another video up. Your patience and encouragements seem boundless. I wish you all the best success in the development and marketing of your Geneva products.
Received my proportion divider and just wanted to say how pleased I am with it. It’s beautifully made and though made of bamboo it feels precise and reeks of quality. Highly recommended.
Mark, thank you for responding to my question about white balancing when using a computer monitor as the reference for a painting. I did as you taught, and the particular painting I'm working on has improved so much as I've adjusted the values using the color checker and my monitor. Really cool.
Your info is very thorough; I have been learning for years yet your videos have taught me more in the few hours I have been watching you then all 50 years of my painting experiences. I am self-taught, and thanks to you, I am now more excited than ever. I do have a request, though; I would like to see a demo on what exactly is 'milky vs not milky.' Thanks, Dennis.
For the photography the bracketing or taking a few different exposures is the best advice, I feel. Like the color checker after a few paintings, ones understanding of the values and process is starting to hone through the process our minds comprehend. Also my back ground is photography. And when I started I took a ton of photos and remembered the f-stop or film speed I began to recognize how the tool works to capture what I wanted. If you are using digital I also suggest a grey balance. It’s super easy and you have a reference. I’d like to thank you Mr Carder. Your videos are absolutely terrific. Matched with your website. These are fine tools and I feel I am improving even through a study I do. I’m very new to painting. I started monochrome as you suggested and still do studies. Look forward to viewing many more hours of your content
Just ordered one . Looks awesome
Hi Mark,
I just recently discovered your website etc. and love everything about it. My dad was an artist and sign painter by trade so I grew up in a sign shop and learned to mix colors using enamel paints (I'm 53 years old to keep things in perspective) . I spent years painting architectural renderings on a large scale while also using an airbrush working light to dark. I moved on into the digital age and have used photoshop since the early 90's using a tablet to do most of my work as a graphic designer.
I recently decided I wanted to go back to using actual paint and brushes and start really painting for the enjoyment. I started with acrylics because they were cheep :-) and I just wanted to see if I would like painting this way again. I do have one of my painting in a gallery now.
I feel I can do so much better now after seeing your method and using it ... I look forward to progressing on and switching to oils.
I am totally on board with your limited palette and I am pretty confident I can mix paints that way.
I am going to be ordering your set of Geneva colors soon but I did have one question.
so here it is:
Since you use a limited palette and can mix black with it ... I read that your Geneva Black will not grey up colors ... can you explain in a bit more detail when you would use Geneva Black over just mixing from the 5 color palette?
Thank You for your website and videos ... it has really been an inspiration to me.
+Bob Snow The Geneva Black won't grey up your colors but neither will a black mixed from our Burnt Umber and Ultramarine Blue. The black we sell premixed is slightly adjusted for drying time and handling properties, but the main thing is just that it's really convenient to have black already mixed up and ready to go all the time. Black is kind of unique in that you end up using it as is directly on canvas in almost all paintings and mixing it up takes a bit of time because you have to make sure your brush doesn't have any lighter color in it when you mix it up (I talk about how to deal with this in Step 6 of the Online Course, but it's just a hassle) and it can be hard to determine when it's completely neutral (not cool or warm). So it's really just a convenience thing, but it's not necessary if you'd prefer to use just the Essential Palette (the five colors). You will get the same results.
When I saw you r proportional dividers on the Geneva site, I thought to myself, "That is a lot of money for cheap plywood dividers..." and made my own from oak. Now, I find this video, and think, "Well, that explains a lot, those are not the cheap plywood dividers I thought they were!" But still think mine are better for the fact that I counter sunk the two side to be flush at the ends rather than offset as yours are, but I do need some better hardware instead of my wing nut... Good information here, thank you.
I just bought a propotional divider from Geneva. It is beautiful, the bamboo tips are fine and sharp. The only criticism is that to remove the screw an allen wrench is needed. It would have been nice if that had been included. The other option is that the holes could hve been a hair wider
Thank you for another great episode . I would like your advice on which painting surface to use, I'm going to be making my own. I like to do fine detail work and was wondering if I should make braced hardwood panels for their smooth surface???Or should I just stretch some fine tooth canvas ???
Thanks, from Wendy
Mark - Any plans for coming out with a line of brushes? I often have trouble with smaller brushes - both round and flat - separating, even when they're loaded with paint. Thanks for all you do for artists! - Steve C.
Hi, Mark,
I just watched your video on how to mix colors with oil paint. You start with the darkest black and then lighten it to make your paint swatches. I recall my teachers in college telling me one should always start with the lightest color and mix a small amount of the darker color to it because I was told it's always easier to darken a color and harder to lighten it. I'm guessing you don't agree with that and I was hoping you'd elaborate on why it's better to start with the darkest black first. Thanks in advance!
Mark, I've just discovered your channel and am enjoying your tips tremendously. My question- I've drawn my painting and got most of it finished to discover a flaw in the drawing. I tried to remove some of the oil with turpentine but a lot still remains. Is it a problem to just paint over a sizable portion of the paint with the underpainting not right?
Use a "gray card" when taking photos off still life & go in photoshop. One way is: Use levels, pic the middel eyedroper & click on the graycard
Hi Mark, super channel. please could you give me a bit of advice on brushes, there seems to be too many to choose from .I'd be interested to know what you would advise for life size portraits in a loose style, info on sizes and filaments would be a great help. Thanks from Ian.
I wonder what your views are concerning water mixable oils paints and how your supply list might be adjusted to account for differences between them and traditional oils.
Hi Mark! I'm currently in the painting program at the University of Houston. I'm eager to try your limited palette, but the ventilation in our facilities doesn't allow for us to use regular oil paints. We are allowed to use water mixable oils, however, so I was wondering what would be the best comparable colors to use that are true neutral primaries (particularly the red, since I can't find anything like rosso corsa). Any recommendations of colors from other brands?
Thank you!
great
Hi Mark. I like to paint the sea and coast. I have read often that shadow colours for seascape paintings and the like should not be created with an opaque black but something more colourful. This is difficult to achieve if you make your darks with Ultramarine blue and burnt umber. Would you have any suggestions as to how to bring colour into shadow areas or is this getting away from pure realism and leaning towards artistic licence.Thank you so much for your Draw Mix Paint site and videos. They are so motivational.Jon
My project room has lots of daylight, so it's just like painting plein air when I don't use the curtains or stores. Do I still need to add electric light when painting?
I ordered some other products from Geneva but I realize that the proportional divider is not available on the site anymore. Is there any information released about why this is? I would love to purchase one.
Thanks!
Hey Mark. Did you eat BBQ ribs or something before this video? I swear my eyes must be deceiving me and I see an orange hue on either side of your mouth! :-D
Great info as always. I love how you make so much information free. You have a ton of experience and many people would happily pay for it. Hopefully people are supporting you by buying your products so that you can keep sharing what you know. I'm in Canada and anxiously waiting for Geneva to ship up here.
+Victor Tavares It was some paint that I didn't notice until after we filmed the episode!
Hello Mark,thanks for your replay to my previous question,I have a new one for you hope you don't mind,
Being in the UK and unable to buy your products I'm now ready to follow your instructions for mixing colours with your slow dry recipe,you recommend to mix the ingredients in "parts' which is very straightforward,I'm not sure tho I understand quantities. The tubes come in 37Mils shall I divide the parts according to the tube quantity? hope I'm making sense, in your re video you only mention refined linseed oil as a medium.
cheers Leonard.
+Leonard Nolan I'm not sure what you mean about only mentioning refined linseed oil as a medium, but as far as the recipes go, the amount needed to mix the paint to the right consistency will vary greatly from one pigment to another, even one manufacturer to another. So just mix an arbitrary amount, then start the procedure and if you run out of medium to add before you've reached the right consistency, simply mix up some more of the medium as needed. There are no set quantities, which is why I use parts for the recipe. A part can be anything - a millilitre, a spoonful, a cup, whatever - so long as you're consistent. Once you make one batch you will have a sense of how much you need. If you'd like to ask for a recommendation on how much to make for particular paints, the best place to ask is on forum.drawmixpaint.com where someone will be able to give you advice.
Thankyou for your prompt replay! much appreciated. Thats totally great I see what you mean,coming from the conservation world where pigments oxides and various mediums are calculated to the grain I thought I was into follow a strict recipe mind frame.for the time being I'm using N&W oils as you suggested might try your recipe with pigments see what results I get. anyway man thanks again and many thanks for the great tutorials! leonard
thanks for your video, a question:
will be a water mixable oil line of Geneva Paints ?
+Massimo Romagnani No, but I talked a bit about water-miscible oil paint at the end of this episode: ua-cam.com/video/9TgidtvyupQ/v-deo.html ... and I also answer a question about it in Episode 13, which I am uploading later tonight.
Sunsets... LEDs are so powerful these days. About LEDs... their light spectrum is "fuller" than incandescent lights or fluorescent lights, so you are getting a better spectrum of light than with other sources which require more energy to produce. I can recommend a "Flood" style flashlight or light bar for outdoor use, (might try the automotive section for small flood bars) that could be easily packed into a plein air box.
LEDs have limited light range. They fool the human eye but they are full of 'holes' throughout the spectrum. Incandescent bulbs are warmer (lower Kelvin rating) but they are reliable throughout their given range. It's more important that your subject and your palette+easel are in the same light.
@@omnesilere Yes, but with the new strips, they not lonely cover more but can broadcast further. Not all LEDS are made the same. As far as the spectrum, they have holes, but the human eye has no range to perceive them. It would be like you trying to "Feel" the difference of an atom with your thumb. Compared to incandescent, which have no range in certain wavelengths at all. LEDs are much fuller light.
Great Video Mark! I'll be waiting for the palettes!
Mark, I have one question, what's the best way to storage Geneva paints for long time? let's say three months in a storage unit in winter time (Dallas, TX December to about February)
Thanks!
Oscar
+Oscar Marulanda In the jar they should last for years so you don't need to worry about it at all… or do you mean storing mixed colors on palettes?
+Draw Mix Paint Hi Mark, I meant the jars itself.
However my next question would be, I have been reading and I understand that we can put the palette with the paint in the fridge, but it's not recommended to put any food...how about if I put the palette in a plastic shallow box, sealed and then put it into the fridge? It's that safe?
Thanks!
+Oscar Marulanda With Geneva paint you could safely put in the same fridge as food since there are no solvents in the paint, however with paints that do contain solvents such as mineral spirits or turpentine, you definitely should not put in the same fridge as food. Even in a plastic container, the solvent could go through the plastic. In any case, I think the best thing in general is to have a dedicated fridge for palettes.
How do we buy from you I want the measure stick
hi i'am from philippines..is it important to follow "fat over lean" rule in oil paint?..i'm new to the medium..i used to paint in acrylic.. thanks
+Ruth Ann de Guia Yes, it is important. I've talked about it a few times on the show, for example in the middle of this episode: ua-cam.com/video/w92vh1LgOfI/v-deo.html
I just bought one on Amazon for 13$....
I had one of those, Dewert, right? the would is soft and the tips got chewed up in my box. It did work though
How did they produce this museum quality lighting (5000-5500K bulbs) back in the days before electricity? Did they work much more outside? How did they display inside?
Windows
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You deserve more than a FUC**** promotion