After setting TDC, I usually make sure my oil pump drive is lined up with the #1 cylinder as well, I don't turn the crank over to let it fall in. Now when I drop the distributor in, it should fall perfect in place towards #1 TDC.
Most people I know use a screwdriver to align the oil pump shaft. Didn't know it could be so easy to just drop it in and turn the crank haha. Great tip!
After setting TDC on the #1 cylinder, installation is much quicker if you point the oil pump rod opening in the 11 and 5 oclock position, proceed to drop the distributor in with the rotor pointing towards the second rear intake bolt on the drivers side. As the distributor gear meshes with the cam gear, it will line up instantly with the oil pump rod, drops right in with rotor pointing towards the #1 cylinder, figure less than 30seconds, and you are done. Using a screw driver to "clock" the oil pump shaft is not a waste of time, but the quickest of time vs dropping in the ditributor, rotatng the engine till it mates with the oil pump shaft, then you'll have to rotate the engine twice to get it back to TDC on the #1 cylinder, its twice the work when you have already set it at TDC on the #1 cylinder the first time.
I've enjoyed your vids on this engine ($300 find, tear down, initial fire up and this one on dropping in the distributor). You've got an easy, laid back style. Been wrenching on small blocks since I was 14,...I'm 61 now and this was such a well done, straight forward instructional video,....and I know it will be appreciated by many. PS. The 400 SBC is a little prone to running hot due to the siamese cylinders, but boy do they make power. They were used in lot's of busses and commercial trucks. Big bang for the buck and super popular on the drag strip for THAT exact reason. Even for a baseline build, you can easily get 400hp and 400lb/ft of torque out of them, or more. Just watched a video today, in fact, and the 400SBC dyno'd at 471hp and 473lb/ft torque. Great find for ya !! I'll be watching.
Great video...I'm glad I found it! Going to be replacing my crappy mallory unilite distributor with an HEI for ease of wiring on my '66 GTO with a 1972 Olds 455. After you feel the pressure push out on your thumb, is there an easy way to know how much farther you have to crank it to get it at exactly TDC or is that accomplished with the marks on the timing bracket and balancer?
Im new to this, timing. How close to TDC the #1 piston needs to be? dead on TDC? should I check the rockers to make sure both "valves are closed"? Thanks for posting, great vid!
@@fir3gun You can place a screw driver in the #1 spark plug hole. Then Rotate the crank with you breaker bar until you can't turn any further. That willl be TDC .
I just throw them in, find what it's pointing at, and wire it accordingly. Never used a timing light ever. Later on if replacing the distributor I do actually try and match it up one for one.
Great info but I'm a little bit confused about where your rotor was pointing after you rotated the engine to get the distro to seat. It looks like it was pointing away from cyl #1.
I just replaced mine on a 350 Chevy. When It had been running awhile I noticed that the oil pressure was double what it usually is. So I shut it off. Going to go out tomorrow and try to figure it out. Any ideas? Thanks. Nice video
I'm struggling with this on my 427. Any time I get it lined up just right, i clunk it down, and it rotates due to the gears meshing. But then if I hand crank the engine, it won't be at 0 TDC. Do I do a back & forth a bit with the engine timing?
Thank you for the video. Your base timing is 13 degrees but mine according to Chevy is 4 degrees. I have a 1988 Winnebago Superchief that sits on a Chevrolet P30 chassis mated to a 7.4L 454 V8 with a Rochester Quadrajet. Carb guys tell me my base timing can go to 10 which they say is ideal. Can I get your imput? David 🐈
it really all depends on how stock the engine is. base timing runs great from 4-12 degrees, but if you have any power adders or bolt ons, you might want to consider using total timing, not base timing
no because the distributor gear is already set with the cam gear when the engine was on TDC. Now when you rotate the engine, the distributor gear and cam gear are still locked together, then boom the distributor should make one final fall into the oil pump drive (now the distributor is set flush with your intake manifold.)
Thanks for watching everyone. Let me know what you think. Do you adjust timing differently or install distributors differently?
After setting TDC, I usually make sure my oil pump drive is lined up with the #1 cylinder as well, I don't turn the crank over to let it fall in. Now when I drop the distributor in, it should fall perfect in place towards #1 TDC.
@@fir3gunExtra work. Not necessary. His way in this video is just plain easier
Toby Mcguire's best film series yet 👌
Lol.
Was searching for this
I've been timing engines for 60 years and you just did the best I've seen on YT, simple to the point.
Thanks! I really appreciate the compliment!
Most people I know use a screwdriver to align the oil pump shaft. Didn't know it could be so easy to just drop it in and turn the crank haha. Great tip!
It is one of those little tricks that really comes in handy.
Thanks. Good vid, good knowledge.
Thanks for not shaking the camera around like everyone else!
THANK YOU !!!! Great vid for beginners and people needing a refresher. It helped me perfectly.
After setting TDC on the #1 cylinder, installation is much quicker if you point the oil pump rod opening in the 11 and 5 oclock position, proceed to drop the distributor in with the rotor pointing towards the second rear intake bolt on the drivers side. As the distributor gear meshes with the cam gear, it will line up instantly with the oil pump rod, drops right in with rotor pointing towards the #1 cylinder, figure less than 30seconds, and you are done. Using a screw driver to "clock" the oil pump shaft is not a waste of time, but the quickest of time vs dropping in the ditributor, rotatng the engine till it mates with the oil pump shaft, then you'll have to rotate the engine twice to get it back to TDC on the #1 cylinder, its twice the work when you have already set it at TDC on the #1 cylinder the first time.
I've enjoyed your vids on this engine ($300 find, tear down, initial fire up and this one on dropping in the distributor). You've got an easy, laid back style. Been wrenching on small blocks since I was 14,...I'm 61 now and this was such a well done, straight forward instructional video,....and I know it will be appreciated by many. PS. The 400 SBC is a little prone to running hot due to the siamese cylinders, but boy do they make power. They were used in lot's of busses and commercial trucks. Big bang for the buck and super popular on the drag strip for THAT exact reason. Even for a baseline build, you can easily get 400hp and 400lb/ft of torque out of them, or more. Just watched a video today, in fact, and the 400SBC dyno'd at 471hp and 473lb/ft torque. Great find for ya !! I'll be watching.
What headers are on that car? Thats a 67?
Thank you very much as a 16 year old this video is a great tutorial, ill do it on my 74 pontiac grand prix
Great video...I'm glad I found it! Going to be replacing my crappy mallory unilite distributor with an HEI for ease of wiring on my '66 GTO with a 1972 Olds 455. After you feel the pressure push out on your thumb, is there an easy way to know how much farther you have to crank it to get it at exactly TDC or is that accomplished with the marks on the timing bracket and balancer?
Nice video. That engine does look good in there!
Thanks! I am very happy with the Big Block so far.
Good advice on not crushing your finger with the piston
Thank you for this excellent video!
Im new to this, timing. How close to TDC the #1 piston needs to be? dead on TDC? should I check the rockers to make sure both "valves are closed"? Thanks for posting, great vid!
Yes and yes! Make sure both valves are closed on the #1 cylinder (this is to make sure it is on the compression stroke).
@@fir3gun You can place a screw driver in the #1 spark plug hole. Then Rotate the crank with you breaker bar until you can't turn any further. That willl be TDC .
I just throw them in, find what it's pointing at, and wire it accordingly. Never used a timing light ever. Later on if replacing the distributor I do actually try and match it up one for one.
If you have done it a bunch of times that method works fine. The only reason you point it at the #1 cylinder is for easy reference.
Spider man works on cars now??
Dude i had the exact same thought 😂😂
I knew id’e seen him somewhere
Spidey!? Is that’s you!?
Great info but I'm a little bit confused about where your rotor was pointing after you rotated the engine to get the distro to seat. It looks like it was pointing away from cyl #1.
Nice. Simple and to the point. Thanks
Next time definitely open the garage and air it out a tad lol
Remember guys, don't put your finger in the hole
I just replaced mine on a 350 Chevy. When It had been running awhile I noticed that the oil pressure was double what it usually is. So I shut it off. Going to go out tomorrow and try to figure it out. Any ideas? Thanks. Nice video
Shawn Harrison from columbo mine?
Nice video bro
I'm struggling with this on my 427. Any time I get it lined up just right, i clunk it down, and it rotates due to the gears meshing. But then if I hand crank the engine, it won't be at 0 TDC. Do I do a back & forth a bit with the engine timing?
Thank you for the video. Your base timing is 13 degrees but mine according to Chevy is 4 degrees. I have a 1988 Winnebago Superchief that sits on a Chevrolet P30 chassis mated to a 7.4L 454 V8 with a Rochester Quadrajet. Carb guys tell me my base timing can go to 10 which they say is ideal. Can I get your imput? David 🐈
did you ever find a answer. mine also says 4°
Ya they are supposed to be 4 this is really confusing me
I took it to a mechanic who changed it to 9 degrees. Runs better. 😺
it really all depends on how stock the engine is. base timing runs great from 4-12 degrees, but if you have any power adders or bolt ons, you might want to consider using total timing, not base timing
Hello, I have a stock 454 in 1975 GMC C25 w auto trans. Timing sticker inside engine compartment says 8deg BTDC. Why are you setting base at 13deg ?
Right on.
What do you want for the Metallica poster
Thanks for the help Spider-Man
He looks like tom Holland lol thanks for the vidio
Thanks Great help
Do one on 289. It would be much appreciated. Thanks
I can do one on the Mustang.
Budget Build Garage that would be awesome
What headers are on that car? Is that a 67? I'm doing a 67 GTO with a BBC
If it was a ford you wouldnt have to reach too far. 😂 but very helpfull
That is a lot easier actually.
Big if 😂😂😂
Gotta ask wouldnt rotating the engine just to allow the distributor to align with the oil pump throw it out of timing with the number 1 piston. ??
no because the distributor gear is already set with the cam gear when the engine was on TDC. Now when you rotate the engine, the distributor gear and cam gear are still locked together, then boom the distributor should make one final fall into the oil pump drive (now the distributor is set flush with your intake manifold.)
2:22 --> That's what she said..
3:13 --> Agreed, first time is always a bit awkward. Gonna take me a bit to get through this vid if I keep finding these gems
Got one plague my life
Dont wear jewelry haha
This is really good advice actually. I take the wedding ring off depending what I am doing. Jobs like this are fine.
@@BudgetBuildGarage i know just giving you shit haha
Lol. It really is good advice though.