Focus Settings for Panning Photography? | Ask David Bergman
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- Опубліковано 24 лип 2024
- Today's question from Horacio G. -- “What is the best way to capture cars in focus while trying to do panning shots? Should I pre-focus somewhere on the road or use continuous focus and burst mode? After tons of tries, I’ve only managed to capture 2 photos of a car in focus while the background is blurry from the panning motion.”
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#panningphotography #motionblur #adorama
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00:00 Intro
0:40 Question about panning photography
1:24 What is panning photography
2:11 Best angle for panning photos
3:45 Lenses for panning photos
4:35 Shutter Speed for panning photos
9:23 Focus modes for panning photos
14:09 Settings summary
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For a similar "Ask David Bergman" video like this one, click the link below:
Panning Perfection: Two Minute Tips with David Bergman
• Panning Perfection: Tw...
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THANKS SO MUCH FOR WATCHING! - Навчання та стиль
Unfortunately I'm a couple weeks late in watching this but I'm the one who asked the question! Thank you David for answering! One BIG thing I got from this is Focal length! The last couple times I've tried to get panning shots of traffic, I've been at a park but near the edge of the curb AND I was trying to shoot the cars nearest me. So right away, I was shooting at a wider angle. Lol
Thank you for answering, David! Can't wait to go back out there with new knowledge!
As car photographer, I would like to add some useful infos aside from Davids tutorial. First of all, shutter speed for panning is directly related to two things - speed of the moving car (or object), and approach or departure angle in relation to your camera. As David said, it s not same if car is making 10 or 100 mph. Faster your object is moving, shutter speed can be slower. From my experience, for car moving at speed of 60 km/h (cca 40 mph) you will be happy with blurred background with shutter speed 1/80 or even 1/100 sec, if you are panning object that is moving perpendicular to your camera. Steady tracking the object is most important. Slower moving object means longer shutter speed, and increasing risk of shaking your camera, and blurred pictures. If your object is moving diagonally, to your camera or thru the curve, you can use 1:125 or 1:160 sec, and with some practice you will get razor sharp front and moving rear of the car, or sharp rear and blurred front. For best results of a car that is directly approaching or departing, you can use short exposure (1:250 all the way up to 1:500 sec) and wide aperture, and simulate blur with small depth of the field behind the car. Car photographing rule says that wheel should always turn on the picture, or your moving car will look frozen in the picture, like it is standing instead of moving. Anyways, use fastest burst mode, and continuous auto focus with spot focusing. Also, if your lens or camera have image stabilization it's a good news, and you can go with longer shutter speeds. And don't worry, you can't expect every single shot sharp. With long exposure, you can count with very small percentage of good shots, but they will be very good when you get it. In the end, it takes lot of practices for good panning. Take your time, and don't be disappointed if you have small number of successful shots. For good practicing you can use street like David, or some empty road with the car that can go up and down in front of your camera. You can experiment with various car speeds and shutter speeds, and also focal lengths - try something between 100-150 mm for the beginning...
Well said.
Thanks! Just the answer I was looking for. I shot a series a couple of weeks ago, cars going about 35 mph and I set the shutter speed too low 1/30th and only got a few keepers. I have another event in two weeks, so I'll try at the higher shutter speed as you suggest.
F9 to F16
SS 30 to 125, 125 for race cars.
Auto IsO 100-800
Continuous low, Pan along for nice shots.
for begginers: 1/30s 50mm, app 6-8 (easy since the background is blurred by movement and gives good DOF to focus) no need for expensive lens and open apperture, just find the right spot (for 50mm it is usually like 15meters.) Then try try try and you are good to go :)
any tips for a manual lens ? :)
Thanks.
One shot was what we had in the film days. The most difficult in panning motion was to keep panning when you press the shutter release. If you shoot single shot film, train it without film. In digital we waste clicks and pixels. But you still need to train, as David says. The burst or continuous mode helps to keep panning when pressing the shutter release, as it defeats the instinct of keeping the camera still.
Thanks, David. Yep, they're tricky, but when you nail it, it was worth the effort. Take care!
Love it. Have been wanted to do this type of photography.
I did all my motorsports shooting in the manual focus days, for panning shots i would pre focus on the middle of the track which worked very well as an aid to getting the panning shots sharp. For artistic effects you could stop and restart the pan. Interesting information, Thanks David.
I used to shoot sports in the manual focus days as well. Modern AF tech gives us so many more options for creating tack sharp images.
Some great tips! I love panning, especially now I have good autofocus. Before I did, I would lock the focus on a single point - still getting results.
Another thing I’ve been doing to help is letting the ibis correct only for vertical movement, although I don’t know how much that is gaining me.
On the subject of using panning at the finish line, check out Cameron Spencer’s iconic shot of Usain Bolt at London 2012! Runners are interesting to pan: the better their technique, the less they bob, and the better they can be panned! Enjoy your panning folks.
Thanks for your video David. I always learn a lot from your videos and find that you explain things very well. Thanks.
I like to go do the London Marathon to shoot the wheelchair competitors as they pan very nicely. I found a location with a nice background and shoot from the opposite side of the road. I use my 80-300mm lens because it's what I got, but I'm shooting at about 150mm. The Nikon VR on my lens recognises panning and I think it really helps. I also found, strangely enough, that for wheelchairs, 1/30s was about right. Below 1/30s you get lots of rejects, above that you freeze the action too much.
For focusing, the Nikon Continuous 3D, where the camera seems to be able to move focus spots as the subject moves around the frame, does a good job.
As for aperture, I used quite a small aperture (high number). The logic being that you want to get plenty of depth of field so it is forgiving of any focus errors, but at the same time the panning will blur out anything in the background anyway, so too much depth of field is not a problem because the motion blur does a good job of isolating your subject from the background anyway.
Thanks again for all your great videos, David. I have learned a lot. Thanks.
Thank you David !
It’s all in how you track the moving subject, keep the tracking speed up with the moving subject and your hit rate will go up. I use the guide line option in my EVF and it helps
Well done, and thank you!
First off, LOVE your video color!!!
Hi David, thank you for the detailed description of the process and its variables and the useful information! Should you turn off the IBIS while panning? Thanks and take care!
Excellent David! Thank You!!
Thanks for sharing the frames that didn't quite work out.
A suggestion for more leeway in getting a good composition is using a high megapixel camera and wider lens to give extra lateral space. And then crop in for the desired composition.
Was just recently working on some panning with friends and it definitely is difficult. One thing I noticed, is not everything needs to be tack sharp to look good. But you definitely want certain points to be sharp. Someone running for example. Hands and feet blurred is great but keep that face in focus.
Hi David . Great tutorial ✌✌. When you focus ( back button focus) do you keep the button always pressed when shotting? Our press it once and take several fotos when pan?
Panning is tricky and seems like hit and miss for me. Thanks for the tips.
very useful
I would like you expand the panning to aircraft because I shoot airshows with mixed type of planes warbirds fighter jets so i can up my game when shooting them. Your panning cars sample tip might give a better handle for the airshow. Good coverage for items on the ground David
I love photography.
Excellent video!
I like to use high burst, continuous focus, single point. And I pan from right to left whenever possible
Nice. I think Mark Wallace also did something similar.
Sometimes I use the reciprocal of the object's speed as the value for the shutter speed.
Great great video.
What about IS ? Do you have to switch it off or use a kind of Sport mode or can we assume that recent gears 'know' you are panning ? Thank you.
Have to practise now...
Stay safe.
I was using Canon mode 2, which turns of the horizontal stabilization but still works on the vertical. It's made for exactly this type of side-to-side panning shot.
Hi, may I ask is it easier to pan by standing nearer or further away from the moving object? Thanks.
🤔 Using a smaller apperture will also help getting the subject in focus, background blur being induced by the panning movement, a large aperture is not always required 📷 🚕
1- the movement of the Camera should be rotated at one angle or move parallel with the subject? is there any math relation between the speed of the subject and shutter speed?
Hey David,
Are you more over the fan of the DSLR or mirrorless camera?
In wildlife photography, mainly birds if you have VR on it won't be sharp either, I turn VR off.
I think the 1/30 shutter is good for subject moving around 40/km more or less .. but as fast as the subject moving you need to go faster ..
Lazy man's way: take two incredibly still shots, one with car, one without. Photoshop analyse tool to help cut the car as a front layer. Then apply linear motion blur on background layer. Apply radial motion blur to wheels if required.
I might get crucified, but that's one way to approach the task if not confident in the field.
What F stop do you usually use?
what was your distance from the objects?
So up until minute 9:30 there is no focus mode suggested it is about framing and shutter speed..
Did youuse back button focus in these photos?
Bergman I'm surprised you didn't include Go-Kart photos!
Do you use continuous low or continuous high?
David, do you keep your sensor or lens stabilization turned on while you are panning? Thank you!
Yes - Canon mode 2 is for panning.
The 70-200 has the stabilization/pan mode. Do you not suggest using?
Yes - I was on mode 2. IS is a separate video. :)
here is a question. I know you shoot Canon, I shoot Pentax(since 1983), do you get a higher frame rate in APS-C mode vs full frame?
(I'm not David) Assuming the cameras you refer to have a, and their mode is, "mechanical shutter", you have to be aware that the travel time of the shutter "curtains" is constant. Exposure time is determined by the time between the first opening and the second curtain closing. How fast the curtains travel all the time, can be deduced from the X flash sync time. If you have a full frame camera and use it in APS-C crop mode, then the shutter speed is not changed. If the camera does not have an elaborate mechanism to alter the shutter start and stop points then at the level of the mechanical shutter there is no change in anything between the formats.
If you look at smaller format (native) cameras you could see a faster X-sync time and considering the previous, we can assume the mechanism moving the shutter curtains could be the same. Just the distance is shorter and hence the X-sync time faster.
You can deduce from this that the total time needed to take a 1/8000st shot is not really shorter than the time needed to take the X-sync shot. "Curtain" or "slit" shutters are called "focal plane" shutters in English, but that is a misnomer as history had curtain shutters placed in front of lenses in the first place. You can also appreciate that these shutters have an issue called "time parallax" because one area of the sensor (film) is exposed at another moment than another section - causing round race car wheels to look like eggs in pre-WW2 photos or causing banding in digital under fast flashing artificial lights.
Originally, most SLR cameras had fabric curtains running horizontally. One evolution was to replace the fabric by metal foil. The second evolution was to replace the fabric or metal foil by vertically running strips of metal. And by thus shortening the travel distance for the "curtains", the X-sync exposure time got faster again. X-sync is the shortest exposure when the entire frame is exposed because the first curtain has fully opened and the second curtain still needs to start closing. The sync trigger is "1st curtain fully open". But at longer exposure times - chosen for available light - this places the available light exposure over the flash exposure and this is why some cameras have "second curtain" trigger (so X-syn is first curtain sync). A third trigger exists or existed: FP sync and this triggers the flash when the first curtain starts to open as it is used to trigger flash bulbs that need some time to arrive at their peak light intensity compared to strobes/speedlights.
Considering all this, I would not expect higher frame rates from setting a full-frame camera to APS-C, nor would I expect this to change anything to flash sync times.
I would however expect a professional APS-C body to have a faster X-sync time than a professional full frame and when it has that, it could also have a higher maximum frame rate - because the frame rate is limited by the curtain mechanism.
In the old days, we needed to crank up some clockwork for it to operate all this and shutters would only work in one direction after which both curtains (tightly closed) would be rewound and springs cocked. I don't see why modern electronically controlled mechanical shutters cannot work both ways and thus get very high frame rates as they could expose with the curtains going down, and next when they go up. Maybe there is a camera that can do that - I don't think so.
In movie cameras, the shutter is generally a rotating disc with an opening in it. The rotation determines fps and exposure. And when the movie camera is advanced, there are two identical discs and the angle between them can be adjusted to vary exposure time.
The waiting is for a sensor that does not have to be "read" or "measured" sequentially, but where the photosites can (all?) be measured at the same time while storing the result in a buffer. When that is reality (and affordable) then a digital stills camera can basically be as fast as a higher speed movie camera. And it would take the time parallax out.
Fantastically detailed answer from JP below. Bottom line is generally no - frame rate isn't effected by the smaller sensor size. But of course you can buy cameras (both cropped and full-frame) that have faster or slower frames rates, but it's not the sensor size that makes the difference.
@@DavidBergmanPhoto - thank you. And. In short, (a) don't expect that cropping a full frame camera to APS-C will increase the maximum frame rate. (b) a smaller format sensor APS-C camera using the same tech as its larger sibling should in theory be able to get higher frame rates: the moving parts are smaller and can be lighter and the distance to travel is smaller. This makes it disappointing that an OM m4/3rd camera can do maybe 15 fps, but that may be due to time it needs to process the bits stream. Its X-sync may be 1/320 sec and that is explained by the former under (b). I would say it only benefits from the smaller format and does not have faster shutter curtains.
Hi David, I want to know if we take 3 images with different ISO suppose ISO 100, 400 and 1600 ... And compensating the exposure by changing Shutter speed , then we stack all 3 images in Photoshop . I wanted to know can we use this noise Stacking technique in real world?? Can we combine 3 images with different noise level??
Can you send that in at www.AskDavidBergman.com ?? Thanks so much!
Sure .
1/2 a second Taxi looks like its hovering LOL
More car photography videos please :)
Send me some questions. :)
@@DavidBergmanPhoto thank you. I've submitted questions just now on your Ask David form. Cheers :)
What was your shooting mode?
Knowing that you are in Manhattan why did you shoot with a 70-200mm why not use 24-70mm or just use a 50mm
I wanted the longest focal length I could get. Wider lens would have given me fewer usable images.
@@oneeyedphotographer your right he did state that but he also stated many times over that he was in Manhattan you without long vistas
nice tutorial, but it doesnt need to be 15 minutes long...
1 st comment
Use mirrors 😉
Horatio,stick to landscape…..your welcome
Gatekeeping ah comment