Fit your rings to the pistons and check the clearance in the ring grooves. One of the reasons for high oil consumption is worn ring grooves , which cause a pumping action as the rings move up and down in the worn groove. Check manual for max clearance allowed. If pistons and rings are within the recommended values, check all 4 pistons, Then you could buy a set of 0.5 mm oversize rings and very carefully gap them in the bores by filing or grinding the ring ends with a dremel and thin cutting wheel. Use the side of the wheel. Grind very carefully until the ring gap comes into tolerance. You can achieve the minimum tolerance very easily with oversize rings gapped in slightly worn standard bores. Hone the other 2 cylinders, to allow rings to bed in. Honing takes very little out of the bores. Don’t overdo it. Just take off the glaze. I did this on an engine with worn bores with good results. It didn’t burn oil and had good compression.
Your doing the right thing having it rebored I can't see any point in putting it back together when you know it's showing signs of wear I wish you all the best with it
I understand the worry about the ring gap, but wouldn't aftermarket rings be an option? This would allow you to adjust the gap within tolerance restoring it to factory spec. My only real concern about the larger bores would be the amount of piston slap but can't make an assessment with only the bore size. The piston diameter would be required. Note aftermarket often have high piston bore gaps to allow for expansion under higher heat loads and material differences. At the end of the day you need to keep the gap as small as possible but large enough to avoid binding.
You need bigger ring gaps with turbo charged engine to cope with the compression from forced induction, so if your going to tune / remap and up the boost you would want a bigger ring gap
Some bmw petrol engines have a special coating on the bores. So need to be careful in regard to honing or reboring. Also don't rely on a Haynes manual. Errors are common. You need the BMW TIS manual.
Have you checked the original ring gaps? MINI for a while did oversized rings and pistons as options and when a block failed quality control it would be moved to oversized and not thrown away. That was from a BMW tech a while ago when I rebuilt my engine. His advice was to always measure first before buying new pistons for that reason. If it was wear there would be a lip usually. E.g. the top of the cylinder would be normal and 50mm down would be greater size.
Yes, 80k miles on a petrol, get 1st rebore size for sure. Great content! I have watched enough to know you do every job the right way. You would not be happy rebuilding an oil burner. Hope you can move on the standard pistons and rings.
possible dry sleeves? my gen 1 s type blew a headgasket. scrambling to get my daily back on the road until i can get a proper daily driver. the old burned down. but alas, I am toying with the idea of whole engine and wash my hands until i can build my relpacement engine, or rebuild my current with unknown status. I am planning to investigate with a boroscope at minimum (no air compressor). if I do rebuild my 224k engine. I hope to redo the rings and proper filing as needed, new bearings, breaking oil and assembly lube. proper head check or rebuild, and new timing assembly. no sense in opening up the same engine again later if it can be helped. some wear on these parts is enough to feel happier with just replacing them entirely.
Haha I did exactly the same thing with a n12. I tried standard rings -massive gaps. Did you notice the lower composite oil scraper ring they go spongey. On aftermarket ring sets this is different standard steel type. We bought a 2nd hand block and wear was exactly the same. glad someone is doing some proper content on the issue. I’m changing my oil every 4k after oversize pistons fitted see how long it lasts. Theories as to why they wear: service interval too high, owners don’t check oil and dipstick hard to read, no early warning oil light, when engine overheats due to bmw plastic thermostat housing and pipe cracking the engine overheats leading to piston bore wear. Such a shame bmw ruined the pug tu5 😂 My personal suggestion is fit a Peugeot tu5 engine or Honda engine. Avoid all bmw plastic crap at all costs.
I think it would work fine. Better a bit more tolerance then to little. Look what happened to M539 resoration when he wanted the slight scuffed Block overhauled. (Complete Engine Failure after 200KM)
My personal opinion.. if you like mini …rebuild it if you are sure the pistons will not fail you can put a little bit more boost in to the engine and make it even more powerful … I have R 52 cooper and I have so many ideas but obviously if you put too much boost in standard engine .. pistons not holding the torque ..I was thinking to put S engine and rebuild it slightly different than normal and different outlook engine section but my concern how the body of that little car gonna react with so many power 😂😂😂 I just love that car and if I have same dilemma I will do it ..
I would say rebore and go with bigger pistons . But I’m no engine builder so I don’t know if that would through things out of wack regarding ecu mapping knock sensor etc . Probably your dad would be the best person to give opinion considering he has shop mate .
Honestly, you could just hone it and call it a day. The ring gap might be slightly larger than factory but nothing to worry about as you'll have new oil control rings, new compression rings, and a rebuilt top end. Refreshing old engines with just the head, rings and bearings was something that people do if they have a half decent working engine. Heck, if you put boost to a "loose" engine, it doesn't blow up as fast as a "tight engine because bigger engine tolerances are good for thermal expansion. Emissions has really pushed auto makers to make engines"tight" while using low tension rings which allow for excessive oil consumption at fairly low mileage.
You could look at it that way but I don’t think there is any need to add more power to this already high powered engine. I will be upgrading the piston rings to 3 piece oil control rings however!
@@GeorgeAusters I still think that would bring you back to virtually a new engine. You can then use original pistons and the rings you already have. I didn't think fitting new liners was that expensive.
Does everything comes inside the manual book you have ( torque specs) for the n14,n18 the hole engine? If so please share the name and where can I get the book Thanks
UM.....precision is perfection.UM.....I have 225.000 miles on MY N16 normally aspirated, less heat yett difficult to watch temps. AN viscosity unburned fuel wash.carbon management preparation solutions and then there's the plastic.....well...she is well USED my baby.
Unfortunately you've used the specs for a new engine which Haynes would have sourced from BMW. If you had used BMW TIS or any other dealer level source you would have had the tolerances and running clearances they provide for an engine in service (wear limits). This is why pistons for service come 77+.00 but the factory pistons are 76.9x - 76.9x
I don't think it is that bad. You just need to get rings for the actual bore and not for the factory bore. As the oversize is consistent over all the four cylinders I suspect that the block has already been rebuilt once and in that process bored to 77.035. I doubt you would need oversized pistons to cope with that but definitely slightly oversized rings to accommodate your exact bore. Why would you want a block suitable for your new stock rings rather than rings suitable for your block?
@@GeorgeAusters You are supposed to adjust your rings to get the desired gap when the bore is not stock. But maybe it is hard to find oversized rings fitting your specific pistons...!?
Ahhh I have the same problem with my Cooper S engine (R56) I have measured the cylinders and three out of for are just in spec at 0.018mm oversize, however cylinder two appears oval as I have -0.05mm across the width of the block and +0.05mm towards the thrust side.........Do I also rebore to 0.25 or 0.5mm?????
Just. Thought , seems as this is a cooper S ( turbocharged prince engine ) that Haynes manual actually stating that for a turbo unit or a N/A ? Ring gaps will differ between turbo and N/A
@@GeorgeAusters I’d double check on another data platform just to be safe . Something like autodata / alldata or actual OEM repair manuals. Keep up the work tho! Nice to see others not scared to have a play !
You are so good with cars & I am sure u can fix it? I was gonna ask you if Mini was gonna be going up for Sale when sorted? Seems prev Owner didnt drive it carefully or might of had few few Owners that just can care or give it a service😜
I did a Triumph Stag V8 engine many years ago. When machining was not upto today's precision. They graded pistons to match the cylinder bores. The local Triumph specialist had stock of pistons and I bought the biggest standard piston he had. I took my block into work and honed the cylinders just to remove the lip at the top, and deglaze the cylinder walls. I don't suppose the same is possible these days. I did get some funny looks pushing a V8 block on a pallet into an aircraft factory.
I have the same BMW/PSA engine, after an engine mishap I'll spare the details mine required rebuilding, I was told by the company that's doing the work that the cylinders were fine and didn't need bored. But could find at the time piston that were OEM sizes instead they are 77.025 oversized strange I know. These pistons are forged like over parts of the internals. It's expensive however I will be keeping the car not sure if it adds profit to the car, I'd done it for the reliability. Would maybe something worth considering if you intend to keep the car and maybe looking for more power. Oil consumption is around 1 Ltr per 1000 miles roughly.
That you are able to measure some ovality surely means there is wear there so the only way to return the engine to A1 condition is a rebore. Only other option is to swap the engine for a known good replacement really.
Hi George, thanks for the great content you post, I would rebore it for peace of mind, its out of tolerance, I'm not an engineer but have been around long enough to know its not worth the risk, Mark
Looks like an N14 engine? This is the reason why I avoid the R56. I have an R52 Cooper S and the Tritec is pretty much bulletproof, even if you pick up a car that’s been neglected
Weired that the bores are that worn after 80K miles, I'd understand at 150-200K miles but 80K! Wonder if the engine was ran with poor quality or fuel diluted oil for a long period of time.
To be honest, the original pistons are fine but of course oversize are needed now. This is actually the lowest mileage car I’ve owned but these engines are known to not last. It will once I’m done with it though!
Rebore new pistons only way honing and fitting rings will extend the life of the engine but a rebore is the proper way no reason why it shouldn't do another 100k miles if the engine is done right
Hi George, hope you don't mind me messaging again, have you watched barometer engines on UA-cam? Think they would sort your mini block rebore for you, just a thought Mark
@@GeorgeAusters do you feel its worth the drive, ? They seem to know what there doing, its getting hard to find places like that now, as a subscriber be great to see them do your block,then watch you rebuild it and start it Best wishes mark
Have you considered having new cylinder liners fitted. A good machine shop should be able to press out the liners and fit new cylinder liners to original spec. Then it would be like a new engine. Ask about new liners at a good machine shop.
Hi George, l would contact Barum Engines. They have a UA-cam channel and know what they are talking about. Defo need a rebore as 0.037 out round is too much.
Two schools of thought really! Dependant on cost of rebore and parts and what I expect from the engine once complete! After all the work and effort to dismantle and then rebuild the engine, if you go ahead without the rebore only to be disappointed with the finished job ie bad oil consumption, loss of power! Then it was all in vain! So I guess it’s best if you are in doubt, to bite the bullet and spend that money now whilst it’s at the current stage of work.
I can see you are pissed off . Because you put a 110%in your work and want everything right . If you can source another engine thats 👌. And put your parts on it 😉 👍.
I think you should go ahead - it’s not going to matter. After a tenth of a mm it’s not significant. Can you even pinch your fingers to see a space that small. No
Yikes that is NOT a good hone job. You should always check your diameter min. and max. Dude let a true professional do your machining. You have no clue.
I can see you are pissed off . Because you put a 110%in your work and want everything right . If you can source another engine thats 👌. And put your parts on it 😉 👍.
Fit your rings to the pistons and check the clearance in the ring grooves. One of the reasons for high oil consumption is worn ring grooves , which cause a pumping action as the rings move up and down in the worn groove. Check manual for max clearance allowed. If pistons and rings are within the recommended values, check all 4 pistons, Then you could buy a set of 0.5 mm oversize rings and very carefully gap them in the bores by filing or grinding the ring ends with a dremel and thin cutting wheel. Use the side of the wheel. Grind very carefully until the ring gap comes into tolerance. You can achieve the minimum tolerance very easily with oversize rings gapped in slightly worn standard bores. Hone the other 2 cylinders, to allow rings to bed in. Honing takes very little out of the bores. Don’t overdo it. Just take off the glaze. I did this on an engine with worn bores with good results. It didn’t burn oil and had good compression.
Your doing the right thing having it rebored I can't see any point in putting it back together when you know it's showing signs of wear I wish you all the best with it
You've made the right call!
Sorry to hear the bad news. However, I believe you have made the right choice. Fingers crossed for you and can’t wait to see it running again.
Thanks mate
You may need bigger injectors for the bigger bore so it doesn't run lean.
I understand the worry about the ring gap, but wouldn't aftermarket rings be an option? This would allow you to adjust the gap within tolerance restoring it to factory spec. My only real concern about the larger bores would be the amount of piston slap but can't make an assessment with only the bore size. The piston diameter would be required. Note aftermarket often have high piston bore gaps to allow for expansion under higher heat loads and material differences. At the end of the day you need to keep the gap as small as possible but large enough to avoid binding.
You need bigger ring gaps with turbo charged engine to cope with the compression from forced induction, so if your going to tune / remap and up the boost you would want a bigger ring gap
That’s what I thought but I couldn’t find any ring gap specs for the N14 engine
No you don't. If you look up factory specs of any turbo and non turbo, same engine, the same gaps.
Some bmw petrol engines have a special coating on the bores. So need to be careful in regard to honing or reboring. Also don't rely on a Haynes manual. Errors are common. You need the BMW TIS manual.
Having just blown the engine on my Autosolo car.. I can sympathise. Just do it properly, it's worth it if you're going to keep the car.
Have you checked the original ring gaps? MINI for a while did oversized rings and pistons as options and when a block failed quality control it would be moved to oversized and not thrown away. That was from a BMW tech a while ago when I rebuilt my engine. His advice was to always measure first before buying new pistons for that reason. If it was wear there would be a lip usually. E.g. the top of the cylinder would be normal and 50mm down would be greater size.
The original ring gaps are only slightly more than standard new ones
Yes, 80k miles on a petrol, get 1st rebore size for sure. Great content! I have watched enough to know you do every job the right way. You would not be happy rebuilding an oil burner. Hope you can move on the standard pistons and rings.
possible dry sleeves? my gen 1 s type blew a headgasket. scrambling to get my daily back on the road until i can get a proper daily driver. the old burned down. but alas, I am toying with the idea of whole engine and wash my hands until i can build my relpacement engine, or rebuild my current with unknown status. I am planning to investigate with a boroscope at minimum (no air compressor). if I do rebuild my 224k engine. I hope to redo the rings and proper filing as needed, new bearings, breaking oil and assembly lube. proper head check or rebuild, and new timing assembly. no sense in opening up the same engine again later if it can be helped. some wear on these parts is enough to feel happier with just replacing them entirely.
Haha I did exactly the same thing with a n12. I tried standard rings -massive gaps. Did you notice the lower composite oil scraper ring they go spongey. On aftermarket ring sets this is different standard steel type. We bought a 2nd hand block and wear was exactly the same. glad someone is doing some proper content on the issue. I’m changing my oil every 4k after oversize pistons fitted see how long it lasts. Theories as to why they wear: service interval too high, owners don’t check oil and dipstick hard to read, no early warning oil light, when engine overheats due to bmw plastic thermostat housing and pipe cracking the engine overheats leading to piston bore wear.
Such a shame bmw ruined the pug tu5 😂 My personal suggestion is fit a Peugeot tu5 engine or Honda engine. Avoid all bmw plastic crap at all costs.
I think it would work fine. Better a bit more tolerance then to little. Look what happened to M539 resoration when he wanted the slight scuffed Block overhauled. (Complete Engine Failure after 200KM)
do tell more? how do i find this video or videos?
@@blackfrost273industries4 M539 Alpina Restauration Part 7 UA-cam
Excellent break down. Thank you.
Sorry to hear dude
Please get a video of the rebore at an engineering firm along with costs for new pistons etc. It will make great content.
I’ll try my best to for sure!
Lovely job lad
Thanks mate
My personal opinion.. if you like mini …rebuild it if you are sure the pistons will not fail you can put a little bit more boost in to the engine and make it even more powerful … I have R 52 cooper and I have so many ideas but obviously if you put too much boost in standard engine .. pistons not holding the torque ..I was thinking to put S engine and rebuild it slightly different than normal and different outlook engine section but my concern how the body of that little car gonna react with so many power 😂😂😂 I just love that car and if I have same dilemma I will do it ..
I would say rebore and go with bigger pistons . But I’m no engine builder so I don’t know if that would through things out of wack regarding ecu mapping knock sensor etc . Probably your dad would be the best person to give opinion considering he has shop mate .
To my knowledge, the map would just adjust to suit the extra 20cc or so per cylinder
Get the opinion of the machine shop you will use to rebore it
Honestly, you could just hone it and call it a day. The ring gap might be slightly larger than factory but nothing to worry about as you'll have new oil control rings, new compression rings, and a rebuilt top end. Refreshing old engines with just the head, rings and bearings was something that people do if they have a half decent working engine. Heck, if you put boost to a "loose" engine, it doesn't blow up as fast as a "tight engine because bigger engine tolerances are good for thermal expansion. Emissions has really pushed auto makers to make engines"tight" while using low tension rings which allow for excessive oil consumption at fairly low mileage.
You could look at it that way but I don’t think there is any need to add more power to this already high powered engine. I will be upgrading the piston rings to 3 piece oil control rings however!
Just rebore the block and fit bigger pistons.
Otherwise it will still burn oil
Agreed
How about having the block re-sleeved? Then you can use standard pistons and rings
Believe it or not, resleeving the block is actually more expensive than a rebore and new pistons
@@GeorgeAusters I still think that would bring you back to virtually a new engine. You can then use original pistons and the rings you already have. I didn't think fitting new liners was that expensive.
@@awalk5177 Once new liners are fitted, they still usually need to be bored to size
George, is it a lot more expensive? I have often suspected that the cylinder walls are quite soft on these blocks.
Does everything comes inside the manual book you have ( torque specs) for the n14,n18 the hole engine? If so please share the name and where can I get the book
Thanks
If your going down that road and having a rebore it would pay to have the crankshaft machined and new oil pump
Crankshaft is within spec and already have standard size bearings. I do have a new oil pump though!
If you want to retain your original pistons and original rings, can you not sleeve the block and have each cylinder machined out to 77.00mm?
Would cost more to get new liners
UM.....precision is perfection.UM.....I have 225.000 miles on MY N16 normally aspirated, less heat yett difficult to watch temps. AN viscosity unburned fuel wash.carbon management preparation solutions and then there's the plastic.....well...she is well USED my baby.
I feel your pain and I think you’ve gone the right route.
Tell me this though? Why have my VWs and BMWs used oil but my Citroens never have?
It could be simply the fact that more power generally means more blow by
@@GeorgeAusters I’m hoping new CCV cured my N52
Unfortunately you've used the specs for a new engine which Haynes would have sourced from BMW. If you had used BMW TIS or any other dealer level source you would have had the tolerances and running clearances they provide for an engine in service (wear limits). This is why pistons for service come 77+.00 but the factory pistons are 76.9x - 76.9x
I wanted to build a new engine, I didn’t want it to be burning oil like these do from factory
Hi George
Have you ever rebuilt an E71 E72 BMW? My bottom end it’s gone and I need to rebuild it. Do you have any opinion on that?
Yep I’d rebore, ain’t worth messing with
Plenty of good machinist’s about.
I’ve had a couple of engines done , best way to go😎🤙🏽
I don't think it is that bad. You just need to get rings for the actual bore and not for the factory bore. As the oversize is consistent over all the four cylinders I suspect that the block has already been rebuilt once and in that process bored to 77.035. I doubt you would need oversized pistons to cope with that but definitely slightly oversized rings to accommodate your exact bore. Why would you want a block suitable for your new stock rings rather than rings suitable for your block?
I highly doubt the engine has been rebuilt before given the carbon buildup throughout. To my knowledge you can’t get +0.35 oversize rings
@@GeorgeAusters You are supposed to adjust your rings to get the desired gap when the bore is not stock. But maybe it is hard to find oversized rings fitting your specific pistons...!?
Yeah my pistons are standard size
Ahhh I have the same problem with my Cooper S engine (R56) I have measured the cylinders and three out of for are just in spec at 0.018mm oversize, however cylinder two appears oval as I have -0.05mm across the width of the block and +0.05mm towards the thrust side.........Do I also rebore to 0.25 or 0.5mm?????
.25mm should be fine
Have you looked into getting those liners replaced?
Think that would cost a lot more than getting the cylinders rebored
Why not have a chat with Mark at Barum engines. He has a UA-cam channel & really knows his stuff.
Just. Thought , seems as this is a cooper S ( turbocharged prince engine ) that Haynes manual actually stating that for a turbo unit or a N/A ? Ring gaps will differ between turbo and N/A
I thought exactly this! But it just states “all petrol engines”
@@GeorgeAusters I’d double check on another data platform just to be safe . Something like autodata / alldata or actual OEM repair manuals. Keep up the work tho! Nice to see others not scared to have a play !
Well more money but it will be great in long run
Can’t you re sleeve them or get larger pistons? And rings
Watch the video I recorded at Barum Engines
Rebore and sell the pistons and rings you've already bought to recover some of the cost.
I only bought piston rings, I was reusing the original pistons as they are fine👍🏻
Great channel. New subscriber.
Glad to have you!
You are so good with cars & I am sure u can fix it?
I was gonna ask you if Mini was gonna be going up for Sale when sorted?
Seems prev Owner didnt drive it carefully or might of had few few Owners that just can care or give it a service😜
I’m not sure what I’m going to do with it yet👍🏻
@@GeorgeAusters Ok dokey....Just see how things Pan out😊
I would re bore them in that stripped down state George
Yes I would do it right and bore 0.50 mm.
I did a Triumph Stag V8 engine many years ago. When machining was not upto today's precision. They graded pistons to match the cylinder bores. The local Triumph specialist had stock of pistons and I bought the biggest standard piston he had. I took my block into work and honed the cylinders just to remove the lip at the top, and deglaze the cylinder walls. I don't suppose the same is possible these days. I did get some funny looks pushing a V8 block on a pallet into an aircraft factory.
😂
I've re assembled junkyard engines without honing and they run perfectly. You need to try it so that you learn and move on.
Same goes for the end gaps, Doesn't matter, it'll just have a bit more blowby.
But I don’t want that👍🏻
@@GeorgeAusters you don't want to educate yourself?
I don’t want a bit more blow by or be down on compression. I want it to be like a new engine👍🏻
I would speak to the engine shop first to get their opinion, and see where that takes you
Agree that's no good at all, it would only be worse than before.
What are those bores made of?
Cast iron id imagine
Was there a significant lip at the top of each cylinder?
I have the same BMW/PSA engine, after an engine mishap I'll spare the details mine required rebuilding, I was told by the company that's doing the work that the cylinders were fine and didn't need bored. But could find at the time piston that were OEM sizes instead they are 77.025 oversized strange I know. These pistons are forged like over parts of the internals. It's expensive however I will be keeping the car not sure if it adds profit to the car, I'd done it for the reliability. Would maybe something worth considering if you intend to keep the car and maybe looking for more power. Oil consumption is around 1 Ltr per 1000 miles roughly.
That you are able to measure some ovality surely means there is wear there so the only way to return the engine to A1 condition is a rebore. Only other option is to swap the engine for a known good replacement really.
You’ll always get some degree of out of round particularly at the top where the piston does it’s rotation but I agree a rebore is needed!
Hi George, thanks for the great content you post, I would rebore it for peace of mind, its out of tolerance, I'm not an engineer but have been around long enough to know its not worth the risk,
Mark
rebore & new rings would be the way I would of gone with this problem
Sounds like a plan then!
Can you get the block sleeved
Could do but that would work out a lot more expensive
Looks like an N14 engine? This is the reason why I avoid the R56. I have an R52 Cooper S and the Tritec is pretty much bulletproof, even if you pick up a car that’s been neglected
Correct but hopefully should be solid once it’s been rebuilt👍🏻
Weired that the bores are that worn after 80K miles, I'd understand at 150-200K miles but 80K! Wonder if the engine was ran with poor quality or fuel diluted oil for a long period of time.
Yeah I was also quite shocked to find it out of spec at such low mileage
Barum Engines for your rebore They have a channel on here
How can get that manual u have
You can buy it here: amzn.to/3BIRX4f
Cant you put bigger pistols in?
Yes but they only come in set sizes so the cylinders would have to be bored to suit
new rings alone is half a job (especially with 80k on it ), re bore and pistons jobs a good un👌
To be honest, the original pistons are fine but of course oversize are needed now.
This is actually the lowest mileage car I’ve owned but these engines are known to not last. It will once I’m done with it though!
Rebore new pistons only way honing and fitting rings will extend the life of the engine but a rebore is the proper way no reason why it shouldn't do another 100k miles if the engine is done right
Yep watch my recent video where I had the rebore done
I would of just rebuilt it if you are planning to tune it at all your going to need ring gap to play with if want to run big boost
No plans to tune it really, already has more than enough power from standard👍🏻
No plans to tune it really, already has more than enough power from standard👍🏻
Unlucky but Love it vids. Keep going mate. 👍
Thanks mate
Hi George, hope you don't mind me messaging again, have you watched barometer engines on UA-cam? Think they would sort your mini block rebore for you, just a thought
Mark
Yes I was thinking of messaging them but they are a 5 hour drive from me!
@@GeorgeAusters couriers?.
@@markpearson5488 Very risky sending an Engine block away
@@GeorgeAusters do you feel its worth the drive, ? They seem to know what there doing, its getting hard to find places like that now, as a subscriber be great to see them do your block,then watch you rebuild it and start it
Best wishes mark
Yeah I’m gonna get in touch with them👍🏻
Have you spoken to Barum Engines?
Not yet!
@@GeorgeAusters Maybe worth a chat and poss collab?
Have you considered having new cylinder liners fitted. A good machine shop should be able to press out the liners and fit new cylinder liners to original spec. Then it would be like a new engine. Ask about new liners at a good machine shop.
That would cost a lot more then a rebore and oversize
@@GeorgeAusters Maybe, but if you want a virtually new back to standard engine, new liners gives you that. Do as you wish.
Hi George, l would contact Barum Engines. They have a UA-cam channel and know what they are talking about. Defo need a rebore as 0.037 out round is too much.
Yep a few people have suggested them now👍🏻
Things like this should always be left for the professional 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
In what way?
@@GeorgeAusters the boring and resizing etc
Oh of course, you can’t exactly rebore a cylinder at home anyway. You need a very accurate boring machine👍🏻
Pistons
Two schools of thought really! Dependant on cost of rebore and parts and what I expect from the engine once complete! After all the work and effort to dismantle and then rebuild the engine, if you go ahead without the rebore only to be disappointed with the finished job ie bad oil consumption, loss of power! Then it was all in vain! So I guess it’s best if you are in doubt, to bite the bullet and spend that money now whilst it’s at the current stage of work.
My thoughts exactly!
I can see you are pissed off . Because you put a 110%in your work and want everything right . If you can source another engine thats 👌. And put your parts on it 😉 👍.
I think it’s fine! - just my guess not an expert-
What makes you say that?
It’s cause they are 99.949% within the 77mm spec - as the engine rebuilder to see if it’s fine be chucking it m8
🙌🏼
❤️
I think you should go ahead - it’s not going to matter. After a tenth of a mm it’s not significant. Can you even pinch your fingers to see a space that small. No
It’s easy saying that but I’d hate to not have a perfect engine after doing all this work
@@GeorgeAusters ya but this N14 engine was a known nightmare - chain tensioner- burning oil - just buy a new n18 and make install modifications video
I’ll be taking care of all the common problems with this rebuild👍🏻
Barum engins
Dose your father have access to a C,MM computer numerical measuring machine, to do your cylinder check for you,he must bein a quality position 😉 😀
Quite possibly! I do know that there is nobody else there that can do his job😅
First!
Legend
Yikes that is NOT a good hone job. You should always check your diameter min. and max. Dude let a true professional do your machining. You have no clue.
I guess you didn’t watch the video of me at Barum engines then?
I would message the UA-camr at barum engines he will know what steps to take.
I can see you are pissed off . Because you put a 110%in your work and want everything right . If you can source another engine thats 👌. And put your parts on it 😉 👍.
It’s all part of the process man. Like I said I don’t want to get another block as it will be the same if not worse👍🏻