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Repairing a Transom using West Systems 6Ten
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- Опубліковано 1 бер 2019
- Repairing a Transom using West Systems 6Ten
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I have the same problem on my 15 ft bass boat this is by far the cleanest less mess job ive seen repairing a transom. I’ll definitely give it a try hopefully it will save me time and money thanks 🙏
I'm not counting, but I think this is the fourth season out on the water after the repair and still no signs of stress or weakness. As previously mentioned, I received these repair instructions from a Marine Center owner and followed his instructions closely. I'm pleased with the results of my repair, I hope you will be also.
Awesome video. I`m going to try this on my boat. This is definitely worth a try as the cost of having the transom done is VERY expensive ! Thousands
Exactly, and if you ask a boat builder they will say the only way to fix is complete replacement, they will have one eye on you and one on your wallet.
Honestly, that small of a boat would be fairly easy to replace the transom. Being already delaminated the timber should come out whole and used as a template. A gallon of west system epoxy/slow hardener and some fabric.
Getting ready to do another transom. Wondering is putting a large shop vac in a hole and letting the vacuum dehydrate the old wood would work.
Great idea. If I had thought of it, I would have tried it. Any way you can get air movement, you'll move moisture too. I recall that as I forced 6ten into the holes, occasionally I saw moisture forced out the adjacent hole(s).
This was an awesome video really like it and your right prob many ways to do this but looks like you followed your friends instructions to the T. I may try the is on 76 tri hual has wet transome. The stuff holds 10 ton + enough said!!
Hey boss I’m thinking about doing this on a 68 tri haul, wonder if you did it yet?
Nice work - I would have filled from the bottom up like they do with foundation epoxy reinforcement
I hope the video was an inspiration for you to make your own repairs. It's great to learn something new and a nice feeling when you do it yourself. My transom is still as strong as the day I finished it.
That’s a pretty good idea as it might push any water up to and out the top of the transom. Always a good idea to improve on the original mousetrap design.
Great video. Might try this on my Grady
If your transom is getting soft, no reason why it wouldn’t work.
The dehumidifier in the sealed area looks like a great idea. How much water do you think was removed with the dehumidifier?
Unfortunately, I don’t think I took a lot of water out. I thought it was a good idea also, but I think I couldn’t seal it completely. I certainly would’ve been up for suggestions, but wanted to complete this without waiting too long. As I recall, I left that dehumidifier on for about four days.
I was using the pump option with a hose to the outside. From what I recall, it didnt look like as much as I expected
Ok Bob,
I received all my stuff and am going to begin as soon as the weather warms up some, how did you repair the areas that you drilled the holes in; with fiberglass or gel-coal or Bondo and what kind of paint did you use? on the video in the final shots the transom looks brand new
I did my Sea Ray 240 sundancer two years ago. So far so good..
Denatured Alcohol, can be had at hardware stores in qt and gals. It can be poured into the wet wood and allowed to drain. It mixes with water and dehydrates the wood and evaporates quickly.
Has to be used in well ventilated area, combustion hazard.
That's a great tip. Would have done that if I had known back then.
How has the transom repair holding up? Thinking of doing something similar for my boat.
Boat is still running strong with no changes in the transom integrity. At this point, I don’t expect any more problems with the transom.
So how many tubes did it take? And was the alum plate on exterior and interior. How did you determine what size to use. Thanks.
Okay, so you ordered 6 and then 8. Used it all? Thanks.
I don’t exactly remember how many tubes I used, I think it was somewhere around 24. I do remember buying four and six at a time and then having to go out and buy more. The aluminum plate on the outside of the transom was much larger than what I put on the inside, but there are two. The inside plate size was constrained by physical space available and the outside plate was kind of random with the idea that I needed to spread out some of the pressure from the outboard pushing on the surface of the transom, not really knowing at the time how strong this six10 epoxy would be.
How's your repair holding up? I just bought a boat and unfortunately it looks like the transom is just starting to delaminate and the wood seemed a bit wet when i drilled into it to install trim tabs. I want to make sure the boat lasts and fix the problem before it gets too bad, thanks.
Holding up well. Boating is popular here on Long Island and I try to get out on the water every weekend. Was out last weekend and boat ran well. I am always looking for signs of transom degradation and have not seen anything yet. Maybe one point of interest which may be in the video, as I pushed the six10 in each hole under pressure, water would come out of adjacent holes. So, the process will remove some of the wetness anyway.
looks like about 1.5 inch btwn holes horizontally and 2 inches btwn them vertically? I'm guessing you don't drill the hole all the way thru, right? maybe 3/4 deep ? thx
It's been some time now, so I don't remember the distances. Thought I mentioned in the video. Not super critical though. Definitely do not go all the way through. If you do, the six10 will seal the inside as it does the outside, best not to though. I roughly measured the depth of the Transom and set a drill stop, cheap to buy. Once set, the rest go quicker and are all the same. The closer you get to the other side the better. The pressure of the six10 going in will disperse among the loose wood fibers and de-lamination. Saved my Transom, still going strong with no noticeable changes.
Have never heard of this approach. Where did you get the inspiration?
Did you calculate the volume to determine amount of epoxy?
How many tubes did it take to do, say a square foot?
I think it was 22 tubes. Had to keep ordering more as I went since I severely underestimated how much I would need. I was talking to a local marina owner about my transom problem and he told me of this method in a story of how he repaired a rotted keel on a 36 foot boat. I had the same success he did.
So, how did it hold up?
Great video! How is the repair holding up? Was your transom soft to begin with?
Holding up well. No sign of any change in structure or degradation to this point. Initially, I noticed the transom began to buckle under the weight of the outboard. I monitor it a little less closely now, but no more sign of any buckling. Thanks for the props, I felt the need to share this experience since there are so many similar situations out there.
@@rbw442 Thanks for the response! Yeah I'm seeing the same thing with my transom. It's not completely failing but it was buckling right at the 2 bottom holes of the motor. Ordered some epoxy and an electric caulking gun, I plan on following your steps to the T. Tight lines out there!
@@breakingbass4322 Yup, same place as mine. One more thing, over fill the drill holes a little. Not critical, but I have a few 3/8's concave areas where I didn't overfill. Take your time, good luck.
I like the video I like the idea, how’s it holding up 2 years later?
I think its been more than two years and I check the integrity less and less now that I don't see any changes.
Hey Bob, great Video, how id you determine how many holes to drill and what size are they? thanks!
That part is not super critical, the holes were 3/8 inch diameter and if I recall correctly, they were spaced 1 inch apart and each row is staggered. It’s been a while, so I don’t recall exactly. What you’re looking for is each successive hole to be able to be injected with the 610 and meet up with the previous hole to make a stronger bond once cured. I used a Ryobi cordless gun to inject each hole because you would never get the power needed from a manual gun.
@@rbw442 Yes Sir, I ordered a Ryobi gun after I watched your Video, do you remember offhand how wide your transom is? I recall you used around 24 tubes of 6ten does this stuff expand? my transom is 96 inches wide, still a kick ass video
Did you fiberglass over the holes when done pr just leave the epoxy to seal the holes?
Good question. Most were raised above the transom surface after drying so I flat-board sanded them flat then painted with marine white. The epoxy did absolutely seal the holes. A few were below the surface and were more noticeable after painting. I was mostly looking to achieve functionality, so I didn't mind.
Interesting. How has this held up?
It has been a few seasons now and no changes. I no longer check as frequently now.
@@rbw442 nice. Glad it worked out for you.
Lose the trim and form fiberglass around corners
With all that rot, I think I would have redone the transom because that rotten wood needs to come out
True, there are a few options. This one came to me on a recommendation from a local marine tech, so I decided to give it a try. Still going well.
Still holding up?
How much did you spend on it and what electric sealant gun did u use
I used a Ryobi cordless electric caulking gun, a hand operated gun was nearly impossible. I gave away the Ryobi after I was done as I had no further use for it.
How long did it last?
Will probably last forever. Still no change in transom. Still using the boat every summer. And by the way, there’s a 1986 225 Evinrude mounted to the transom,quite heavy.
How’s it holding up?
I have been using certain metrics to monitor changes in the transom and I have not seen any degradation since the repair.
It's been a few years now.
I don’t know about this method? I would have to do it the other way people do it
I made this video because many people may not know about this method. Simply creates another choice.
So why not do it from inside to outside, I have a 89 Grady and can reach plywood from inside above floor surface and mine is rotten, I removed the angle trim 5years and and glassed it the damn trim screws causes this bullshit
What kind for boat was this?
1981 Grady-White Bimini 220 with a refitted 1986 Evinrude 225
What size drill bit did you use mate?
From memory, I'm pretty sure it was a 3/8"
Take the wet wood cut top off take that trim off the top dig wet wood out clean it out then fill this is not a good fix do it right not a good fix you do not have enough epoxy in there to do anything that boat is not safe will not hold up boat will sink his test means nothing that transom will tear off
That is a false comfort you should have drilled thru the transom put heat lamps and fans and let dry for a month that six ten is not for wet wood there is a product called git rot made for rotten and damp wood you mix and thin the resin so the fibers soak up resin you drill at a angle to open up multiple passages and fill up have to probably do three passes I would cut out the back and rip wood out your transom is swelling bad then screw skin back with fir strips then get pourable transom resin then you have safe transom I still have to do my 82 248 wellcraft sportsman w 300 etec this will be my second one I did my bass boat like in 83'then I'll be set along with my new 125 gal fuel tank my 38 yr old tank was original finally let go not to bad most go at 20 yrs JT 🇺🇸🐟🎣🌴⛱🛥😃😊🙏🏻 good luck hope it holds up
A boatyard mechanic told me of this method. I merely followed his direction and documented for others to see. I'm sure there are may ways this could have been done but, this is the way I did it. It was two years after that I posted the video so, my third or fourth season coming up and no visual changes to the transom.