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I'm about to cry lol! I just spent hours putting on two calipers only to now realize (thanks to your video) that I put the calipers on the wrong side!!!! So this is why I have spongy brakes, especially considering I bled the crap out of each one thinking there was air in the lines. So, tomorrow I will take my broken and beat up body back outside and redue this process in reverse. Thanks for your help. I wish the other videos I watched today had mentioned there was a left and right caliper. Yours is the only video that clarified this.
Yo I just found out that I had put a LF caliper on my RF. Luckily your video allowed me to check my bleeder not in the right place and I bought the other caliper. Swapped the other over and I’m good to go! Your three go-to issues worked for me brother! Made me remember why the head mechanic at my shop would remove the caliper and match it up physically before making the sale.
Im such an idiot I put them on backwards man. Spent an entire day pumping the brakes and got on and listened to your channel and bam that bleeder nipple was on the bottom. THANKYOU!!!
Oh, there’s nothing wrong with ignorance at all that’s how we learn. We never learn from not making mistakes…. And I appreciate the kind words welcome to the channel. Happy to have you, brother.
I was given the wrong caliper for my 2003 GMC Sierra...they gave me the left instead of the right...I had issues with spongy brakes after bleeding and after seeing this video found out that the bleeder was below the main fluid line...thanks for sharing this.
I know that was a weird one for me when I did it one time… really glad it helped you out man that’s cool!! Welcome to the channel we’re very happy to have you
Man you just earned a new subscriber! I just completed a brake job on a 2015 Titan (front calipers and pads) and I figured I had done everything correctly but I just could not get rid of the spongy pedal and brake and traction light. Came across your video and sure enough, I had the calipers on the wrong side! The bleeder screw being above the brake line is very important! Thank you!
Dude this was absolutely awsome man. 5 stars and a round of applause this video made me feel really good and I needed to let you know. Thank you god bless you aswell!
It wasn’t twisted brake lines. Obviously the work I was doing banging about removing the struts has done something and allowed a minor air leak. I just had to bleed the brakes and we’re now all good, but your ideas has helped my knowledge. Cheers mate
Thank you for this video I’m having the same issue I’m going to pull the wheels back off in the am and check hopefully it’s a quick fix I checked the reservoir and it’s still at max so no leaks anywhere just a little spongy on the pedal
Thank you! You are amazing!!! Did my 4th caliper the day before inspection .. not smart I know. Got in the car and no compression on brakes. Will try when I get home. Thank! You have given me some hope. God bless you!
OK, thank you very much. I think I covered quite a bit in this video but you could always look at the comments and people will recommend things that may be missed and videos. I don’t think I missed anything but there was somebody who said something I greatly appreciate folks like you that will take the time to actually write a message and appreciate what I do welcome to the channel. Very happy to have you.
Damm I almost going to replace it the master cylinder or something else starting a pain, good video this, I don’t fixed yet but I notice both rear caliper was wrong, thanks so much for your video
That comment is great stuff thank you very very much I wish they were all that way….. sorry brother my channel is very hit or miss sometimes I take forever to get to the point and sometimes I do it quickly most of the time I take forever…. Because UA-cam videos don’t pay shit . And the most important thing as a creator is view duration and click through rate….. most people think is it is subscribers but subscribers really don’t have that much to do with how much money you make or if you even can be successful on UA-cam I suppose giving out good information. Is definitely the key but if you make UA-cam videos for a living you need to make a living doing it so you have to get people involved and want to be a part of your click , in my situation it’s called the (click of six) because there’s six people that watch my videos I’ve been making videos full-time for about five years now and I’ve never quite figured it out on one hand people want information quickly and on the other hand from my position I need people to view the whole video meaning I need to keep them on the video for as long as possible so I’m trying different ways of keeping people involved we’ll see how that pans out…..
As a former autoparts salesperson it was common to need to write Right and Left on parts that you are selling. You can always tell how much experience someone has talking to them. That goes no matter which side of that counter you are standing.
@@sharpcarco while you’re here, allow me to be so bold as to ask you a question. I know almost nothing abt cars/trucks but today I attempted to replace my rotors. The drivers side went in perfect and the rotors aren’t grinding against the pads and it’s smooth. However the passenger side i noticed the 2 21MM bolts ( that seats the calipher to the rotor) is stripped and it was very very difficult to get it back in, i forced it all the way in and they both are snug in there. But after driving, the rotor has a line in the center of it, i know this could be many things so to put an end to my essay i ask you this, what is the most likely reason for this? Residue on my hands when i touched the rotor? I did not clean my grimey hands or the rotor as i didn’t think it would matter
@@isolatedbutjacked7036 well if I’m understanding your question correctly, you’re talking about the caliper bracket bolts? That’s the bracket that mounts to the spindle and then the caliper mounts on that And the bolt is protruding out the other side, causing it to drag onto the rotor ? I would suspect the problem is you didn’t put the washer back on it . Now I can’t tell you for why it’s cross threaded at least that’s what it sounds like and if it is cross threaded Regretfully, I would have to inform you that you will need to replace it , technically you could fix it rather easily. It just depends on how bad it’s crossed threaded, but it’s probably gonna cost more money to buy the appropriate taps. Do not put haley coils on it. Them bolts generally require about 150 foot pounds to torque them down correctly. And Haley coils will not last your caliper will fall off or come loose. Technically, it can’t fall out if you have the factory wheels on it, but you’ll be stuck on the road if it comes loose I definitely had trouble in the past. If you wanna reach me in the future, look me up on Facebook under Clays, AC and Auto Repair I get notifications on my phone when people message me and we can transfer information like pictures and webs webs, webs, webs, webs, websites, etc. etc. I only use it for answering questions. Don’t worry I’m not gonna try selling you crap lol
@@sharpcarco well you’ve given me something to think about. I did indeed use the washers so it can’t be that but i’ll have another look at it tomorrow. Thanks a ton!
Thanks Mr. Atkins I greatly appreciate it and welcome to the channel next week I have a video coming out on this subject where I get a little bit ranty….. not quite as productive as this video was but deals with the similar subject of the brakes
Thanks a lot for your video. It really solved my long time problem with my nissan terrano. The bleeder of the front brake calipers were at the bottom. after is checked it, problem's solved. Thanks The Clay Way
Thank you so much for telling me that that absolutely makes my day every time I hear someone tell me things like that I like being paid when I’m working on somebody’s car in my shop but I absolutely love just giving my knowledge away for free to people that I do not know so once again thank you so much for the comment God bless and have a great day!!!! Don’t forget to pay it forward to a stranger
Well, it’s bad you can’t really put it on backwards. You got the wrong side. But hopefully the video helps you figure that out and that’s the point God bless have a great day.
There is definitely something you are missing. You did not have to undo your brake lines to change your brakes so something happened. You probably got a twisted brake line on one of your calipers.
what about way to much air in the lines after replacing a rotten line???I have to re bleed mine again since they are still spongie...after i did all wheels i found leaks i had to fix... i hope this fixes it..thanks
Ngl putting brakes on backwards isn't hard to do, if you're new and you're just starting to get your bearings on doing brakes its easy to get too confident and try to slap everything back together in a rush. I dont blame a newbie for doing that, but when I see people (that should know better) do shoddy work because it's not their car and they're lazy that really irks me, it's usually the people that talk a big game too. I like your channel cuz you're honest and break things down very well. Shoutout from Saginaw area!
@@sharpcarco for real man, happens sometimes! I work in IT and a very common thing is people not plugging in power connectors, so easy to do but so easy to forget too 😂
@@DIE2dayORelse I’m always careful about making sure I see the “R” or “L”. What is the old saying: ‘Measure twice, cut once.’ That adage is timeless! I tightened those boot bolts too much- I suspect. I never go by torque values! I MAKE THINGS TIGHT! 😆 I think that was a mistake. But no, this was a good explanatory video. Usually you have people with stupid musak and jump cutting… Have a good one.
"The right is when you're sitting in the car and the left is when you're sitting in the driver's seat." This statement is what caused me to sell my shop and start raising penguins for a living.
I changed a front brake caliper on my Accord 2014 and it sinks even after 2 bottle flushing. Before that was everything great. When the car is off the pedal get hard but when i turn the engine on it sinks. What can i do, pls?
Hey Clay, I'm not a mechanic, but I've always done my own work with no problems. I recently picked up a caliper and rotor for my `02 RAMMIT from OH REALLY?'s and bled it with clear fluid. The pedal gradually sinks with no apparent leakage, not losing any fluid visually. I did the right front 2 weeks ago and had no problems. Does this sound like a M/C problem, or am I overlooking something? I'm getting up in years and I refuse to take my shit to a shop when I ALONE can fuck shit up for cheaper. Thanx in advance.
I totally get you on the messing stuff up LOL don’t worry there’s a lot of editing in a minute in my videos...... It certainly does to me sound like your master cylinder.
@@sharpcarco I checked in the cab and around the booster, no leaks and reservoir maintains its level. This is my main driver and have no chase vehicle. It stops but must pump 3 or 4 before actually stopping. That caliper I got didn't come with a new banjo bolt like the left front. Maybe debris but I'm getting clear fluid from resivoir. I guess it's process of elimination at this point. Thanx for the quick response.
You know it’s a possibility that you could of accidentally installed it kinked? Or if you did not hang the caliper with a bungee cord or something you could have stretched the hose just Thoughts off the top of my head
@@sharpcarco Like I've stated, not a mechanic but doing it for years. The neighborhood seems to think I am because I'm always working on something. I'm up in years and literally go over my shit twice or three times. I'm going with the master even though I can't see obvious leaks. It very well could be suttle and minute. WTF, stranger shits happened. PEACE
Test it for certain. Get a few plugs that fit the model you're working on and plug up the master. Bleed it, then pump it. If that comes back with a solid pedal, then the next step is to plug in a line, bleed it and test it. Still good? Plug it again, go to the next line repeat. Keep repeating until the pedal sinks. I know i got rear cylinders that leak and needed rebuilding or replacing because of this method. My problem was that the rear cylinder would suck in air but not let any liquid out. It was weird.
Spongy brakes are apparently an industry wide problem, and have even confused the experts. Rav4's ade famous for this problem even after replacing major system parts like master cylinder and bleeding multiple times. Some guys on other vids are suggesting ABS modules are failing more than expected and is a cause of the spongy brakes. There's a lotta people including me who are spending alotta time on this issue. Still no definite fix even from the experts.
Did you find a solution, because I am facing the same issues, changed master cylinder and vaccum hose, the mechanic checked on the calipers but without removing it so I think it's just a visual check, did you find a solution, it's been spongy for so long
@@liftupvibes1936 ...if all braking components have been replaced, the only thing left is the ABS module. Others have said a scan tool with "auto bleed" will fix it, but I haven't tried that. Another is taking the car to a place of ice-snow or wet gravel, and brake hard to enable the ABS. That MAY bring back the higher pedal.
had brake pads and rotors replaced on mercedes c 230 1998--after job the brake pedal goes very low to floor--what could be the problem? Is a brake flid exchange the culprit?
I have the same problem put on a brand new master cylinder actually three different ones and I still have spongy brakes I'm thinking of something to do with the ABS did you ever fix yours and what you do.
Well if people would ask me questions on my clays AC and auto repair on Facebook I would’ve certainly answered these questions very easy… Air got into the system because one of the lines was moved in such a way that it would suck air and the rubber portion of the line on your brake caliper Or The caliper pins are either seized. A bad caliper.
A short and great video brief on calipers. Thanks a bunch. Also how do you know if the master cylinder and brake booster has deteriorating and require replacement?
Hello please I need your help t I put the new brake pad animals doing the same thing before I was catching on the desk I change the brake pads in the street touchingi is Mercedes E 320 Cd 2005
Hi there fellow Michigander. 😂 Michigan mechanics have it rough, the salt and brine they throw on the roads make every bolt a few ft lbs away from taking far more time for removal. 😢😢That’s why If I have to have a mechanic work on anything, I schedule it early and bring him breakfast!😂😂. There is always a high risk of a northern mechanic losing money on a quote due to snapping rusted bolts.
What's the cause of this if I have new rotors and new brake pads, and just got a brake fluid flush done. Could it be that my new brake pads are cheap because even the old ones wasn't doing this
Hey man I'm having trouble with the 1997 Nissan hard body pick up truck I changed out the caliper on the left driver side and I also change the master cylinder and it is spongy I bled out all the lines there's no bubbles anywhere the master cylinder is working properly eye pressure on both lines the booster is also having suction it is working properly so I cannot figure out what's going on there's another video about the same issue and I follow the same steps and I didn't get the results I did it about 10 times bled the lines over and over again so I don't know what to do anymore if you can help me out please much appreciate it
The only thing that comes to mind from what you’re talking about is that your brake booster is bad and that’s why you hear the spongy noise when you step on the break because air is a scape being from the brake booster does your engine run differently when you push the brake pedal down if it does that means your brake booster is bad and it stealing in vacuum from your brake system and your engine is losing engine vacuum to. I hope that’s helpful have a great day
@@sharpcarco yes when I told it down the engine sounds like it wants to bogg down I press on the pedal a few times and it gets hard but if I let it sit after pumping it for 5 sec I press it and it goes to the floor I'll change out the booster and I'll get back with you thanks
@@sppmaster1 I put new everything I mean everything pads, shoes, master cylinder, rotors. I adjusted the booster behind the steering wheel. So to get started just do this make sure everything's back on the way to post you bench bleed the cylinder start from the farthest Tire back left back right and on that back right on top there should be a bleeder bleed that out Follow The Line then go to the front right bleed that then bleed the left. Make sure you can lift up the backing of the tires both sides do not take the tire off and you can adjust it from the back of it make sure you're barely touching the shoe on both tires. And that's what I did believe me it'll still be a bit spongy but after a month or so it'll get hard for some reason this brake system sucks donkey balls and it's super hard to bleed out.
I have the same problem with my nissan terrano before, but after i checked the position of the bleeder after i saw this video, I found out that the bleeder is at the bottom, so I checked it and everything now is fine. I hope this helped
The Clay Way I will try and keep and short and detailed. While driving my brake pedal seems to have more play then my wife’s car. I drive a 07 Camry she drives a 10 Mazda 6. Just going off age of cars for that. While the car is turned off I can press the pedal 4-5 times and the brake is rock solid. I have replaced all the brake hardware and the bleeder screws are facing up. I just bleed the brakes and that really did not help. My ABS light comes on periodically. I had that diagnosed and it was a speed sensor wire. I have replaced that twice and that has not corrected the ABS issue. Not sure if the two are related or not. My next step was going to be replace the master cylinder. I have thought about tightening the brake wire but I have read that’s not the best idea. Any help would be appreciated. My grandpa gave me that name. I have it tattooed on my shoulder as well.
If I swap out to get the stainless steel brake lines with new brake fluid redact, give me my sensitivity back in my brake pedal? I want it back to how it used to be where I could barely press the brake pedal in my car feels like it’ll do a freaking front flip lol please anyone out there now about 2012 Trd Camry?
I’m trying to figure out how to get the touchy breaks again. I have crossed drilled and slotted rotors with EBC red stuff pads. It’s just when I push them it doesn’t break as fast when pushing the peddle like it used to. Even with all new hardware, pads and rotors… any ideas? 2013 Camry se
@@sharpcarco I have disc all the way around. Not too sure what drums meme for the brakes. That’s probably one of the few things I don’t know about what I should but I don’t. It’s a 2012 Toyota Camry SE 2.5 L
OK if you see disc behind your wheels all the way around then there’s a couple possible reasons for this, if you had drum brakes the first thing I would do is adjust the brakes in the rear but since you don’t here’s a couple things that may be the possible cause for your problem. Generally when you have drum brakes you’re able to set them up to where they are very sharp like your description but since you don’t have them…… Your brake calipers were replaced and installed on the wrong side because they will go on either left or right so if you take any of your wheels off and you noticed the bleeder is on the bottom of the brake caliper that means that that caliper is on the wrong side your break bleeder should always be towards the top of the caliper above the brake line you probably have a couple of frozen pins on your brake calipers, this does not allow the caliper to retract and move properly causing the cop that is supposed to apply pressure to the brake pads too need move out before it makes contact with the brake pad itself. Causing your spongy pedal Or you could possibly have a collapsed brake line one of the rubber parts of it, but when pressure is applied fluid is able to go past the swollen portion generally these lines are swollen on the inside. I or you have a defective master cylinder I would probably do these checks in this order Look behind the wheels without removing them because it’s not necessary at this point and see if you’re brake calipers are in the right position I would remove the wheels and takeoff the bolts that hold the calipers to the caliper bracket and make sure all of them move back-and-forth properly Check for air inside the system Third inspect the brake hoses very carefully and look for damage this is going to be difficult to see because generally they swell from the inside Replace the master cylinder. I hope some of that is helpful and I hope you find your problem this is the way that I would do it
@@sharpcarco yeah I’m going right now to go pick up some splash guards that were broken today. While I do that I’m gonna look at everything and make sure of these big things that you have mentioned. I’m going to probably need some more help. I have the rarest brain tumor in the world with no cure no health and being on disability and disabled makes everything like this really hard to fix. Financially. Thank you so much for your time and help. I’ll definitely get back to you. Thanks
Man I’m sorry to hear about that situation that’s debilitating to you I’m glad though to see you trying to work past , I think that’s freaking awesome welcome to the channel and I greatly appreciate your kind words I wish you the absolute best and I hope my information is Of some usefulness
@@sharpcarco so if I get the caliper wit the screw on top then I should b good went to AutoZone and told and said yes it's a wrong part should b getting replaced later it had warranty but when at first asked for passenger side caliper that's what they brought and this morning went to see and yes bleeder screw should b at top
When you are bleeding you are pushing the air out, if the bleeder is at the bottom you just push the fluid out since the air is at the top of the caliper. so the bleeder should be at the top to remove any air. It solves mine.
yes I said you could use a file we live in Michigan there is tons of rust that builds up underneath the clips. This van is going to the scrap yard you did not see the whole van ,you only seen the portion that I was showing. it was not worth even looking at . the only value was making this video. The van was more worth less than the $.22 I get a month for making the video If you pay particular attention you will notice the two things happen one the caliper sits on the control arm. The brake line comes straight down. And if you were able to stretch the rubber by letting the brake caliper hang for two or three seconds you probably need a new brake line anyways. 👀 But thank you for your information and trolling The Internet to make sure people like me are not doing the improper things that people like you would never do. As you sit in your house behind your computer you should consider that there may be more variables than you understand before you make comments but whatever I wish you the best Brad God bless him have the Best of days.
Yes...in usa they should say drivers side or passengers side front or rear...the right and left is confusing as hell..there is zero chance someone could mistake driver side from passengers side in the usa..yes other countries have it reversed...
This just happened to me. I got a new set of front calipers and I installed them as labeled. Spongy brakes even after bleeding and then notice and realize the calipers are upside down so obviously labeled incorrectly. I have to switch them now and rebleed.
@@sharpcarco Good video otherwise. I only let myself work on my two cars (combined mileage 600,000 miles). There is no way in hell anyone other than me will gently remove, inspect, clean, and re-treat every part I touch. I have a whole tote of chemicals that I apply to each part. The typical selection is of grease, threadlocker, anti-seize, rust remover, or paint...
I love meeting folks unfortunately right now how our youngest son is in the hospital so it’s gonna have to wait a while but I’ll be happy to do it sometime Nathan thank you very much I appreciate the support
They need to design the callipers so if you put them on the wrong way which I have Never Done they need to make it that the bolts will no way line up with the holes until you put them on the right way idea they change the bolt size and screw in hole for each.
That’s because you weren’t listening and paying attention while you were skipping through the video because you know it already… sad to say you definitely don’t or you wouldn’t have to watch a video
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I'm about to cry lol! I just spent hours putting on two calipers only to now realize (thanks to your video) that I put the calipers on the wrong side!!!! So this is why I have spongy brakes, especially considering I bled the crap out of each one thinking there was air in the lines. So, tomorrow I will take my broken and beat up body back outside and redue this process in reverse. Thanks for your help. I wish the other videos I watched today had mentioned there was a left and right caliper. Yours is the only video that clarified this.
Same here buddy 🤐🤐
Yo I just found out that I had put a LF caliper on my RF. Luckily your video allowed me to check my bleeder not in the right place and I bought the other caliper. Swapped the other over and I’m good to go! Your three go-to issues worked for me brother! Made me remember why the head mechanic at my shop would remove the caliper and match it up physically before making the sale.
Im such an idiot I put them on backwards man. Spent an entire day pumping the brakes and got on and listened to your channel and bam that bleeder nipple was on the bottom. THANKYOU!!!
Oh, there’s nothing wrong with ignorance at all that’s how we learn. We never learn from not making mistakes…. And I appreciate the kind words welcome to the channel. Happy to have you, brother.
I was given the wrong caliper for my 2003 GMC Sierra...they gave me the left instead of the right...I had issues with spongy brakes after bleeding and after seeing this video found out that the bleeder was below the main fluid line...thanks for sharing this.
I also learned that the same way after racking my brain for days
Welcome to the channel happy to have you
I twisted the airlines….. i would have never figured that out. THANK YOU!!!!
I know that was a weird one for me when I did it one time… really glad it helped you out man that’s cool!! Welcome to the channel we’re very happy to have you
How did you fix it?
@@tiagomarcelino7599 take it off, untwist it, reinstall correctly
Man you just earned a new subscriber! I just completed a brake job on a 2015 Titan (front calipers and pads) and I figured I had done everything correctly but I just could not get rid of the spongy pedal and brake and traction light. Came across your video and sure enough, I had the calipers on the wrong side! The bleeder screw being above the brake line is very important! Thank you!
Thank you very much. Extremely happy to have kind of folks like you on the channel and I’m glad my video helped you.
Dude this was absolutely awsome man. 5 stars and a round of applause this video made me feel really good and I needed to let you know. Thank you god bless you aswell!
thanks for the tip about direction of the purge valve sir. it solved my problem and I know it saved me some money.
Thanks for the tips. I ordered a caliper for rear right and got the wrong side..Been bleeding half a liter of brake fluid now before this video
Thanks for this video. I did replace my brakes and am dealing with a soft pedal. I’ll go check these now. Go GR!!
Dude you are the best! Really helpful! from a striving to be a better car guy but newbie!
It wasn’t twisted brake lines. Obviously the work I was doing banging about removing the struts has done something and allowed a minor air leak. I just had to bleed the brakes and we’re now all good, but your ideas has helped my knowledge. Cheers mate
how you bleed the brakes?
Thank you immensely! I swapped them and that fixed the squishy problem! Youre the man!
Gonna try tmrw!
Replaced lower arms
Shocks
Front calipers
Rotors
Sway bar links
Front bar bushings
Alternator
Belt
…. Gawd dam we’ll see 👍🏼🌤️
Thank you so much for taking the time from your life to share some valuable information sir. God bless!
Good and helpful video. Thanks my man!!
Thank you for this video I’m having the same issue I’m going to pull the wheels back off in the am and check hopefully it’s a quick fix I checked the reservoir and it’s still at max so no leaks anywhere just a little spongy on the pedal
I did the mistake of the 2 calipers. Thanks 👍
Thank you! You are amazing!!! Did my 4th caliper the day before inspection
.. not smart I know. Got in the car and no compression on brakes. Will try when I get home. Thank! You have given me some hope. God bless you!
OK, thank you very much. I think I covered quite a bit in this video but you could always look at the comments and people will recommend things that may be missed and videos. I don’t think I missed anything but there was somebody who said something
I greatly appreciate folks like you that will take the time to actually write a message and appreciate what I do welcome to the channel. Very happy to have you.
Short and sweet. Good video.
Good info that many diy's may have not known.
I think I overtighten those pins! I Never knew that! Thank you! Imma see if that works!
In a very short video you really did share a lot of informations 👍👍👍
Jamal ola
Damm I almost going to replace it the master cylinder or something else starting a pain, good video this, I don’t fixed yet but I notice both rear caliper was wrong, thanks so much for your video
Great tips. Will need to check tomorrow if I’ve twisted it
Yeah check them out let me know how it goes make sure you look up the torque specifications for the brake caliper bolts.
Amen brother found your video helpful keep new ones coming
Straight to the point, great stuff 👍
That comment is great stuff thank you very very much
I wish they were all that way….. sorry brother my channel is very hit or miss sometimes I take forever to get to the point and sometimes I do it quickly most of the time I take forever….
Because UA-cam videos don’t pay shit . And the most important thing as a creator is view duration and click through rate….. most people think is it is subscribers but subscribers really don’t have that much to do with how much money you make or if you even can be successful on UA-cam
I suppose giving out good information. Is definitely the key but if you make UA-cam videos for a living you need to make a living doing it so you have to get people involved and want to be a part of your click , in my situation it’s called the (click of six) because there’s six people that watch my videos
I’ve been making videos full-time for about five years now and I’ve never quite figured it out on one hand people want information quickly and on the other hand from my position I need people to view the whole video meaning I need to keep them on the video for as long as possible so I’m trying different ways of keeping people involved
we’ll see how that pans out…..
As a former autoparts salesperson it was common to need to write Right and Left on parts that you are selling. You can always tell how much experience someone has talking to them. That goes no matter which side of that counter you are standing.
what an AWESOME channel
Oh that’s very kind. Thank you so much. Welcome to the channel. Very happy to have folks like you here.
@@sharpcarco while you’re here, allow me to be so bold as to ask you a question.
I know almost nothing abt cars/trucks but today I attempted to replace my rotors. The drivers side went in perfect and the rotors aren’t grinding against the pads and it’s smooth. However the passenger side i noticed the 2 21MM bolts ( that seats the calipher to the rotor) is stripped and it was very very difficult to get it back in, i forced it all the way in and they both are snug in there.
But after driving, the rotor has a line in the center of it, i know this could be many things so to put an end to my essay i ask you this, what is the most likely reason for this? Residue on my hands when i touched the rotor? I did not clean my grimey hands or the rotor as i didn’t think it would matter
@@isolatedbutjacked7036 well if I’m understanding your question correctly, you’re talking about the caliper bracket bolts?
That’s the bracket that mounts to the spindle and then the caliper mounts on that
And the bolt is protruding out the other side, causing it to drag onto the rotor ?
I would suspect the problem is you didn’t put the washer back on it .
Now I can’t tell you for why it’s cross threaded at least that’s what it sounds like and if it is cross threaded
Regretfully, I would have to inform you that you will need to replace it , technically you could fix it rather easily. It just depends on how bad it’s crossed threaded, but it’s probably gonna cost more money to buy the appropriate taps. Do not put haley coils on it. Them bolts generally require about 150 foot pounds to torque them down correctly. And Haley coils will not last your caliper will fall off or come loose. Technically, it can’t fall out if you have the factory wheels on it, but you’ll be stuck on the road if it comes loose I definitely had trouble in the past.
If you wanna reach me in the future, look me up on Facebook under Clays, AC and Auto Repair I get notifications on my phone when people message me and we can transfer information like pictures and webs webs, webs, webs, webs, websites, etc. etc. I only use it for answering questions. Don’t worry I’m not gonna try selling you crap lol
@@sharpcarco well you’ve given me something to think about. I did indeed use the washers so it can’t be that but i’ll have another look at it tomorrow. Thanks a ton!
Well said thanks man I just did a blown break line just need to bleed now good video godbless!!
Good advice. Thank you.
Thanks Mr. Atkins I greatly appreciate it and welcome to the channel next week I have a video coming out on this subject where I get a little bit ranty….. not quite as productive as this video was but deals with the similar subject of the brakes
Thanks so much for the articulate lesson
Thanks a lot for your video. It really solved my long time problem with my nissan terrano. The bleeder of the front brake calipers were at the bottom. after is checked it, problem's solved. Thanks The Clay Way
Thank you so much for telling me that that absolutely makes my day every time I hear someone tell me things like that
I like being paid when I’m working on somebody’s car in my shop but I absolutely love just giving my knowledge away for free to people that I do not know so once again thank you so much for the comment God bless and have a great day!!!!
Don’t forget to pay it forward to a stranger
yolhand sente mop
Bleeder screw suppose to face up not down ? I think I put mine on backwards then
Well, it’s bad you can’t really put it on backwards. You got the wrong side. But hopefully the video helps you figure that out and that’s the point God bless have a great day.
Just changed my pads and cant get the air out, When i bleed them fluid comes out but the air wont. Never had this issue before.
There is definitely something you are missing. You did not have to undo your brake lines to change your brakes so something happened. You probably got a twisted brake line on one of your calipers.
what about way to much air in the lines after replacing a rotten line???I have to re bleed mine again since they are still spongie...after i did all wheels i found leaks i had to fix... i hope this fixes it..thanks
great tips thanks
My pedal is spongy/weak after changing my wheelbearings. Any suggestions?
You have the brake line twisted
looking for some help got a low break pressure problem trying to find out how to fix it on my 08 eclipse could it be air in the lines
Ngl putting brakes on backwards isn't hard to do, if you're new and you're just starting to get your bearings on doing brakes its easy to get too confident and try to slap everything back together in a rush. I dont blame a newbie for doing that, but when I see people (that should know better) do shoddy work because it's not their car and they're lazy that really irks me, it's usually the people that talk a big game too. I like your channel cuz you're honest and break things down very well. Shoutout from Saginaw area!
Definitely not hard to do. How do you think I learned that what the problem was?….. 😂😂😂
@@sharpcarco for real man, happens sometimes! I work in IT and a very common thing is people not plugging in power connectors, so easy to do but so easy to forget too 😂
@@DIE2dayORelse I’m always careful about making sure I see the “R” or “L”. What is the old saying: ‘Measure twice, cut once.’ That adage is timeless!
I tightened those boot bolts too much- I suspect. I never go by torque values! I MAKE THINGS TIGHT! 😆 I think that was a mistake.
But no, this was a good explanatory video.
Usually you have people with stupid musak and jump cutting…
Have a good one.
"The right is when you're sitting in the car and the left is when you're sitting in the driver's seat." This statement is what caused me to sell my shop and start raising penguins for a living.
I changed a front brake caliper on my Accord 2014 and it sinks even after 2 bottle flushing. Before that was everything great. When the car is off the pedal get hard but when i turn the engine on it sinks. What can i do, pls?
thanks man big help twisted line
That’s freaking awesome Randy I’m very glad to hear and I greatly appreciate you taking the time to comment. Have a very excellent day
@@sharpcarco you to my friend
good tips!
Hey Clay, I'm not a mechanic, but I've always done my own work with no problems. I recently picked up a caliper and rotor for my `02 RAMMIT from OH REALLY?'s and bled it with clear fluid. The pedal gradually sinks with no apparent leakage, not losing any fluid visually. I did the right front 2 weeks ago and had no problems. Does this sound like a M/C problem, or am I overlooking something? I'm getting up in years and I refuse to take my shit to a shop when I ALONE can fuck shit up for cheaper. Thanx in advance.
I totally get you on the messing stuff up LOL don’t worry there’s a lot of editing in a minute in my videos......
It certainly does to me sound like your master cylinder.
@@sharpcarco I checked in the cab and around the booster, no leaks and reservoir maintains its level. This is my main driver and have no chase vehicle. It stops but must pump 3 or 4 before actually stopping. That caliper I got didn't come with a new banjo bolt like the left front. Maybe debris but I'm getting clear fluid from resivoir. I guess it's process of elimination at this point. Thanx for the quick response.
You know it’s a possibility that you could of accidentally installed it kinked?
Or if you did not hang the caliper with a bungee cord or something you could have stretched the hose just Thoughts off the top of my head
@@sharpcarco Like I've stated, not a mechanic but doing it for years. The neighborhood seems to think I am because I'm always working on something. I'm up in years and literally go over my shit twice or three times. I'm going with the master even though I can't see obvious leaks. It very well could be suttle and minute. WTF, stranger shits happened. PEACE
Test it for certain. Get a few plugs that fit the model you're working on and plug up the master.
Bleed it, then pump it.
If that comes back with a solid pedal, then the next step is to plug in a line, bleed it and test it.
Still good?
Plug it again, go to the next line repeat.
Keep repeating until the pedal sinks.
I know i got rear cylinders that leak and needed rebuilding or replacing because of this method.
My problem was that the rear cylinder would suck in air but not let any liquid out. It was weird.
I have bmw x3 and my rear brakes just got replaced and they are spongy going to the floor almost but they said it’s fine to drive .
Thanks for encouraging information 😎
Awesome video
quick straight to the point and positive. thank you for sharing !
God bless
Spongy brakes are apparently an industry wide problem, and have even confused the experts. Rav4's ade famous for this problem even after replacing major system parts like master cylinder and bleeding multiple times. Some guys on other vids are suggesting ABS modules are failing more than expected and is a cause of the spongy brakes. There's a lotta people including me who are spending alotta time on this issue. Still no definite fix even from the experts.
You right
I am going through the same problem right now
New rotors, new calipers, brake pads and ABS SENSOR
STILL SOFT 😮
Did you find a solution, because I am facing the same issues, changed master cylinder and vaccum hose, the mechanic checked on the calipers but without removing it so I think it's just a visual check, did you find a solution, it's been spongy for so long
@@liftupvibes1936 ...if all braking components have been replaced, the only thing left is the ABS module. Others have said a scan tool with "auto bleed" will fix it, but I haven't tried that. Another is taking the car to a place of ice-snow or wet gravel, and brake hard to enable the ABS. That MAY bring back the higher pedal.
This only happened to me right after they replaced my rotors and brakes.
Am facing the same issue with my 1995 rav4. Bleed the breaks and same issue.. smh
Life saver!!!
had brake pads and rotors replaced on mercedes c 230 1998--after job the brake pedal goes very low to floor--what could be the problem? Is a brake flid exchange the culprit?
I have the same problem put on a brand new master cylinder actually three different ones and I still have spongy brakes I'm thinking of something to do with the ABS did you ever fix yours and what you do.
Did you figure out the issue?
Well if people would ask me questions on my clays AC and auto repair on Facebook I would’ve certainly answered these questions very easy…
Air got into the system because one of the lines was moved in such a way that it would suck air and the rubber portion of the line on your brake caliper
Or
The caliper pins are either seized.
A bad caliper.
Thanks ill check these tips next.
Thanks
A short and great video brief on calipers. Thanks a bunch. Also how do you know if the master cylinder and brake booster has deteriorating and require replacement?
F
I just left the dealership , mine are spongy it goes almost to the flooor. Brand new brake pads and resurfaced.
Im in the same predicament
They most likely didn’t bleed them right
Great video!
Hello please I need your help t I put the new brake pad animals doing the same thing before I was catching on the desk I change the brake pads in the street touchingi is Mercedes E 320 Cd 2005
Back plate rubbing?
Hi there fellow Michigander. 😂 Michigan mechanics have it rough, the salt and brine they throw on the roads make every bolt a few ft lbs away from taking far more time for removal. 😢😢That’s why If I have to have a mechanic work on anything, I schedule it early and bring him breakfast!😂😂. There is always a high risk of a northern mechanic losing money on a quote due to snapping rusted bolts.
Very informative 🖒
I may of tighten the brake caliber bolts to tight because now my brakes are spongy.
What's the cause of this if I have new rotors and new brake pads, and just got a brake fluid flush done. Could it be that my new brake pads are cheap because even the old ones wasn't doing this
My guess would be a bad brake caliper
awesome! (from holland)
Hey man I'm having trouble with the 1997 Nissan hard body pick up truck I changed out the caliper on the left driver side and I also change the master cylinder and it is spongy I bled out all the lines there's no bubbles anywhere the master cylinder is working properly eye pressure on both lines the booster is also having suction it is working properly so I cannot figure out what's going on there's another video about the same issue and I follow the same steps and I didn't get the results I did it about 10 times bled the lines over and over again so I don't know what to do anymore if you can help me out please much appreciate it
The only thing that comes to mind from what you’re talking about is that your brake booster is bad and that’s why you hear the spongy noise when you step on the break because air is a scape being from the brake booster does your engine run differently when you push the brake pedal down if it does that means your brake booster is bad and it stealing in vacuum from your brake system and your engine is losing engine vacuum to. I hope that’s helpful have a great day
@@sharpcarco yes when I told it down the engine sounds like it wants to bogg down I press on the pedal a few times and it gets hard but if I let it sit after pumping it for 5 sec I press it and it goes to the floor I'll change out the booster and I'll get back with you thanks
@@MarioGarcia-vw1wj What happened? Did you fixed the issue? I have the same issue, brake pedal sinks to the floor.
@@sppmaster1 I put new everything I mean everything pads, shoes, master cylinder, rotors. I adjusted the booster behind the steering wheel. So to get started just do this make sure everything's back on the way to post you bench bleed the cylinder start from the farthest Tire back left back right and on that back right on top there should be a bleeder bleed that out Follow The Line then go to the front right bleed that then bleed the left. Make sure you can lift up the backing of the tires both sides do not take the tire off and you can adjust it from the back of it make sure you're barely touching the shoe on both tires. And that's what I did believe me it'll still be a bit spongy but after a month or so it'll get hard for some reason this brake system sucks donkey balls and it's super hard to bleed out.
I have the same problem with my nissan terrano before, but after i checked the position of the bleeder after i saw this video, I found out that the bleeder is at the bottom, so I checked it and everything now is fine. I hope this helped
Thanks man
Thank you for the video
Dont be the next of them be the first of you. Agreed.
I am in GR. Trying to figure out a brake issue.
Hey what kind of problem do you have Chad?
PS I like your name Chaditude
The Clay Way I will try and keep and short and detailed. While driving my brake pedal seems to have more play then my wife’s car. I drive a 07 Camry she drives a 10 Mazda 6. Just going off age of cars for that. While the car is turned off I can press the pedal 4-5 times and the brake is rock solid. I have replaced all the brake hardware and the bleeder screws are facing up. I just bleed the brakes and that really did not help. My ABS light comes on periodically. I had that diagnosed and it was a speed sensor wire. I have replaced that twice and that has not corrected the ABS issue. Not sure if the two are related or not. My next step was going to be replace the master cylinder. I have thought about tightening the brake wire but I have read that’s not the best idea. Any help would be appreciated. My grandpa gave me that name. I have it tattooed on my shoulder as well.
06 dodge ram rear calipers have the bleeder in the middle tho
If I swap out to get the stainless steel brake lines with new brake fluid redact, give me my sensitivity back in my brake pedal? I want it back to how it used to be where I could barely press the brake pedal in my car feels like it’ll do a freaking front flip lol please anyone out there now about 2012 Trd Camry?
Also clean and lube your caliper slide pins!!!
I think I mentioned it but it’s possible I could’ve forgotten
Mold it out of clay,
Nice twist to your video
I’m trying to figure out how to get the touchy breaks again. I have crossed drilled and slotted rotors with EBC red stuff pads. It’s just when I push them it doesn’t break as fast when pushing the peddle like it used to. Even with all new hardware, pads and rotors… any ideas? 2013 Camry se
I’m assuming you have a rear drums? Would I be correct?
@@sharpcarco I have disc all the way around. Not too sure what drums meme for the brakes. That’s probably one of the few things I don’t know about what I should but I don’t. It’s a 2012 Toyota Camry SE 2.5 L
OK if you see disc behind your wheels all the way around then there’s a couple possible reasons for this, if you had drum brakes the first thing I would do is adjust the brakes in the rear but since you don’t here’s a couple things that may be the possible cause for your problem. Generally when you have drum brakes you’re able to set them up to where they are very sharp like your description but since you don’t have them……
Your brake calipers were replaced and installed on the wrong side because they will go on either left or right so if you take any of your wheels off and you noticed the bleeder is on the bottom of the brake caliper that means that that caliper is on the wrong side your break bleeder should always be towards the top of the caliper above the brake line
you probably have a couple of frozen pins on your brake calipers, this does not allow the caliper to retract and move properly causing the cop that is supposed to apply pressure to the brake pads too need move out before it makes contact with the brake pad itself. Causing your spongy pedal
Or you could possibly have a collapsed brake line one of the rubber parts of it, but when pressure is applied fluid is able to go past the swollen portion generally these lines are swollen on the inside.
I or you have a defective master cylinder
I would probably do these checks in this order
Look behind the wheels without removing them because it’s not necessary at this point and see if you’re brake calipers are in the right position
I would remove the wheels and takeoff the bolts that hold the calipers to the caliper bracket and make sure all of them move back-and-forth properly
Check for air inside the system
Third inspect the brake hoses very carefully and look for damage this is going to be difficult to see because generally they swell from the inside
Replace the master cylinder.
I hope some of that is helpful and I hope you find your problem this is the way that I would do it
@@sharpcarco yeah I’m going right now to go pick up some splash guards that were broken today. While I do that I’m gonna look at everything and make sure of these big things that you have mentioned. I’m going to probably need some more help. I have the rarest brain tumor in the world with no cure no health and being on disability and disabled makes everything like this really hard to fix. Financially. Thank you so much for your time and help. I’ll definitely get back to you. Thanks
Man I’m sorry to hear about that situation that’s debilitating to you I’m glad though to see you trying to work past , I think that’s freaking awesome welcome to the channel and I greatly appreciate your kind words I wish you the absolute best and I hope my information is Of some usefulness
What happens if the bleeder is at the bottom
You have the wrong caliper and it goes to the other side meaning the caliper should be on the opposite side of the vehicle
@@sharpcarco so if I get the caliper wit the screw on top then I should b good went to AutoZone and told and said yes it's a wrong part should b getting replaced later it had warranty but when at first asked for passenger side caliper that's what they brought and this morning went to see and yes bleeder screw should b at top
Ruben Salazar That’s good that means I was a little bit helpful today I wish you the best luck Ruben have a great day
When you are bleeding you are pushing the air out, if the bleeder is at the bottom you just push the fluid out since the air is at the top of the caliper. so the bleeder should be at the top to remove any air. It solves mine.
Came
Jesus. You do not file a caliper that is too aggressive. And why did you hang it by the brake hose???
yes I said you could use a file we live in Michigan there is tons of rust that builds up underneath the clips.
This van is going to the scrap yard you did not see the whole van ,you only seen the portion that I was showing. it was not worth even looking at . the only value was making this video. The van was more worth less than the $.22 I get a month for making the video
If you pay particular attention you will notice the two things happen one the caliper sits on the control arm. The brake line comes straight down. And if you were able to stretch the rubber by letting the brake caliper hang for two or three seconds you probably need a new brake line anyways. 👀
But thank you for your information and trolling The Internet to make sure people like me are not doing the improper things that people like you would never do. As you sit in your house behind your computer you should consider that there may be more variables than you understand before you make comments but whatever I wish you the best Brad God bless him have the Best of days.
Yes...in usa they should say drivers side or passengers side front or rear...the right and left is confusing as hell..there is zero chance someone could mistake driver side from passengers side in the usa..yes other countries have it reversed...
This just happened to me.
I got a new set of front calipers and I installed them as labeled. Spongy brakes even after bleeding and then notice and realize the calipers are upside down so obviously labeled incorrectly.
I have to switch them now and rebleed.
hows about we all just say, "passenger side and drivers side"! done. just sayin
Bleeded the brakes because the pedal was too low and fluid old, no the pedal is softer
Detroit mi
Hello sir
🤗
Don’t like the way you let that caliper hang from the brake line. Not good
CLEAN WITH A BRASS WIRE BRUSH, NOT A FILE!!!
In my defense I did say or something. But I suppose you are absolutely right
@@sharpcarco Good video otherwise.
I only let myself work on my two cars (combined mileage 600,000 miles). There is no way in hell anyone other than me will gently remove, inspect, clean, and re-treat every part I touch. I have a whole tote of chemicals that I apply to each part. The typical selection is of grease, threadlocker, anti-seize, rust remover, or paint...
Awsome!
t y brother
Those pads need to change
It was finning to scrap yard
Lol the pads have at least 5 on em
I’m in gr. I’d like to meet u.
I love meeting folks unfortunately right now how our youngest son is in the hospital so it’s gonna have to wait a while but I’ll be happy to do it sometime Nathan thank you very much I appreciate the support
Insert nice comment here
ha ha ha ,,,great ,,bloody gravity
Nothing burger
+1
I see nothing from your video, waste my time!
Sorry to hear that. Thanks for the engagement though.
ADVICE : LESS JAW JAW more war war, as in show us the bloody product being fixed. Less of the slaver.
Advice: start your own channel and do it the way you would like it done.
@@sharpcarco I'm looking for inspiration to start my own channel, however in picking you,
I'm back to square one.
Lol that’s funny. It’s all good when you get haters ya know ya mad-er ....
They need to design the callipers so if you put them on the wrong way which I have Never Done they need to make it that the bolts will no way line up with the holes until you put them on the right way idea they change the bolt size and screw in hole for each.
You can not get it wrong unless you disconnect the brake hydraulic line and switch the calipers between left and right side of the car.
Here is a nice comment, You said nothing about SPONGEY like the title says
That’s because you weren’t listening and paying attention while you were skipping through the video because you know it already… sad to say you definitely don’t or you wouldn’t have to watch a video