Consider adding a pressure regulator under the cars with air brakes and adjust the pressure for when unloaded and loaded. Just need to place the valve where it can be easily accessed (near coupler). Adjust the pressure on each car based on usage/load when in use. It'll save on wheel and track wear.
Very nice set up Matt, your work is always neat and clean.. the paint on the the loco looks amazing.. hooe this works on the track flawlessly for you..
there is one advantage to having a manual valve at the end of the car for the brake line. It allows you to set the brakes, and then disconnect from the car and it won't roll. I also use a pressure regulator for each car so the brakes can be adjusted for each car depending on load.
Great tips. I usually use a stick or stop block to hold cars back when the locomotive is uncoupled. Only problem with the valve idea is I know some of the "club owned" and maintained cars have slow leaks.
A mix of both depending on location. Memory is a little foggy but I think most of what's on the locomotive is 2+ barb and the quick connect fittings on the end of the car have single barb. With a quality air line I think you will be ok either way. Get the good air line from Tom Bee Online (by the foot) that is designed for the fittings. Your typical box hardware store vinyl tubing is junk and you will find yourself replacing it. Have not had any issues or air leaks after a season with a healthy amount of operating. Tip: use a thread locker on your brake hardware. Don't be like me and have a brake fall off. It is very difficult to move and stay on track when running over your own equipment.
That’s awesome Do you by chance know of any brands/people who make remote couplers for this scale? I’d prefer a euro style DAC coupler but I’ll take what I can get
Impressive, using air brakes on the cars. Suppose a coupling brakes, the break line snaps in an incline. What will happen to the lost cars? Train driver here......
In this scale it's a little difficult to model the way air brakes work on the real thing. Installing an reservoir on each car and maintaining triple valves on the cars is not practical. The brakes apply when positive pressure is applied from the locomotive, and are released at atmospheric pressure. I use safety chains between cars. They will keep the train together if a coupler fails or during a derailment. The safety chains are shorter than the air line between the cars, therefore the chains take the force and the air line will not snap. I have a 'runaway train' video on my channel that demonstrates what happens on a grade when safety chains are not used.
@@mattkinnard6899 Great. You know what You're doing. Anyway, impressive with air brakes. Railroad safety today is built on the experience from old accidents. I know lots of them.... Safe driving on Your railroad!
@@Stefan_Boerjesson very true statements. I do my best to keep my safety record clean. A good policy is that I do not take any more weight downhill than I can pull uphill.
@@mattkinnard6899 May I pull a joke? If You can't pull the load uphill, there's no problem downhill. But..... starting downhill will be very much different. Anyway, You're a true railroader, knowing "what's it's all about". I take my hat off.
@@mattkinnard6899 I wonder, why is it not the opposite? Use _spring loaded_ cylinders that _release_ the brakes when air pressure is applied. That way, it is safer. But of course if there is a leak your brakes may drag, and/or you'll be stuck, unable to move.
Nice. Every time I see people on a train, they are smiling....
I would like to see a line made next to Humboldt Bay.
Consider adding a pressure regulator under the cars with air brakes and adjust the pressure for when unloaded and loaded. Just need to place the valve where it can be easily accessed (near coupler). Adjust the pressure on each car based on usage/load when in use. It'll save on wheel and track wear.
Very nice set up Matt, your work is always neat and clean.. the paint on the the loco looks amazing.. hooe this works on the track flawlessly for you..
Thanks for joing in, Pappy! My work might be clean, but my work bench.... Well it's under that pile somewhere....
there is one advantage to having a manual valve at the end of the car for the brake line. It allows you to set the brakes, and then disconnect from the car and it won't roll. I also use a pressure regulator for each car so the brakes can be adjusted for each car depending on load.
Great tips. I usually use a stick or stop block to hold cars back when the locomotive is uncoupled. Only problem with the valve idea is I know some of the "club owned" and maintained cars have slow leaks.
Very cool video for sure and enjoyed watching. Have a wonderful rest of your Thursday evening.(Steve)
Thanks for watching, Steve!
@@mattkinnard6899 Your very welcome.
Totally awesome presentation Matt. That is awesome amazing to me you can do do that. ❤😎👍
Thanks Dave! I cannot take credit for coming up with the system, but modified it for my application. See you soon by the rails.
@@mattkinnard6899 👍😊
Schrader Valve = check valve. Only allows airflow in one direction. Analogous to a Diode.
When a line is connected to the fitting the valve is held open, allowing air to flow in either direction.
Nice Matt - I like your videos!
Thank you! I am glad my efforts are worthwhile to you!
Matt, any experience with single barb vs triple barb connectors? Which did you use?
A mix of both depending on location. Memory is a little foggy but I think most of what's on the locomotive is 2+ barb and the quick connect fittings on the end of the car have single barb. With a quality air line I think you will be ok either way. Get the good air line from Tom Bee Online (by the foot) that is designed for the fittings. Your typical box hardware store vinyl tubing is junk and you will find yourself replacing it. Have not had any issues or air leaks after a season with a healthy amount of operating. Tip: use a thread locker on your brake hardware. Don't be like me and have a brake fall off. It is very difficult to move and stay on track when running over your own equipment.
I thought air pressure was to keep the brakes off???
The scale stuff works a little different than full size railroads.
I think you got the bug now!
I remind myself to stay off Discover Live Steam on a daily basis.
That’s awesome
Do you by chance know of any brands/people who make remote couplers for this scale? I’d prefer a euro style DAC coupler but I’ll take what I can get
I do not, especially in the USA.
@@mattkinnard6899 seems like that’s the only mechanism you might find on the real thing that they’re missing
Impressive, using air brakes on the cars. Suppose a coupling brakes, the break line snaps in an incline. What will happen to the lost cars? Train driver here......
In this scale it's a little difficult to model the way air brakes work on the real thing. Installing an reservoir on each car and maintaining triple valves on the cars is not practical. The brakes apply when positive pressure is applied from the locomotive, and are released at atmospheric pressure. I use safety chains between cars. They will keep the train together if a coupler fails or during a derailment. The safety chains are shorter than the air line between the cars, therefore the chains take the force and the air line will not snap. I have a 'runaway train' video on my channel that demonstrates what happens on a grade when safety chains are not used.
@@mattkinnard6899 Great. You know what You're doing. Anyway, impressive with air brakes.
Railroad safety today is built on the experience from old accidents. I know lots of them....
Safe driving on Your railroad!
@@Stefan_Boerjesson very true statements. I do my best to keep my safety record clean. A good policy is that I do not take any more weight downhill than I can pull uphill.
@@mattkinnard6899 May I pull a joke? If You can't pull the load uphill, there's no problem downhill. But..... starting downhill will be very much different.
Anyway, You're a true railroader, knowing "what's it's all about". I take my hat off.
@@mattkinnard6899 I wonder, why is it not the opposite? Use _spring loaded_ cylinders that _release_ the brakes when air pressure is applied. That way, it is safer. But of course if there is a leak your brakes may drag, and/or you'll be stuck, unable to move.