thank you - been doing breaks and rotors for a while now. never did calipers so this was perfect. I also loved the part where you just removed the lower break pad bracket bolt and just flipped it up to put on the break hardware and pads. i never thought of that.
Thank you! Was replacing brakes/rotors and both front calipers were seized. Started to semi-panic so checked The Tube and found these instructions. Followed them exactly and all is well! Now for the horrendous back rotors. 😳
How did the back go? Just finished front and now gonna tackle the back. Thinking it might be alittle more difficult cause of not being able to to turn the wheel. Any tips or tricks appreciated!
@@danthebrakemanexact same for me! Was replacing brakes and rotors all the way around on our '15 Kia and when I found the front left caliper seized up, I about said screw it until I watched this... Now I'm waiting on my wife to get home with the caliper and I'm gonna give it a go! Thanks!!
thanks. just want I needed for my 2014 STX 2.0T that I replaced the front calipers on a min ago. Did not do this on the first side and it was instant "Mush" pedal. ALWAYS top off the reservoir before bleeding. I top mine up & will bleed it down to the Max line. GG
Usually the only way to tell if air is still in any brake system is by the feel of the pedal. I typically let them drip for a min or two when gravity bleeding. You can pump the pedal up before putting the wheel on and after closing the bleeder valve to get a feel for it. If the pedal still feels soft after a test drive just break the bleeder valve open again for a few min
FYI - dont use the new bolts....they are cheap alloy and can strip and break easier and mostly just crap. They will loosen up over time.... the OEM bolts are usually made of a better material.
I really lost you when you put the valve and things on the back of the rotor that's very important to me and wasn't covered very well, like I need to know how to put that valve back in and you didn't make a very good video in that part I have never bled breaks and no it did not help so I have to find a different video
thank you - been doing breaks and rotors for a while now. never did calipers so this was perfect. I also loved the part where you just removed the lower break pad bracket bolt and just flipped it up to put on the break hardware and pads. i never thought of that.
Thank you! Was replacing brakes/rotors and both front calipers were seized. Started to semi-panic so checked The Tube and found these instructions. Followed them exactly and all is well! Now for the horrendous back rotors. 😳
Glad it helped!
How did the back go? Just finished front and now gonna tackle the back. Thinking it might be alittle more difficult cause of not being able to to turn the wheel. Any tips or tricks appreciated!
@@danthebrakemanexact same for me! Was replacing brakes and rotors all the way around on our '15 Kia and when I found the front left caliper seized up, I about said screw it until I watched this... Now I'm waiting on my wife to get home with the caliper and I'm gonna give it a go! Thanks!!
Thanks Daniel. I too have a 2013 Optima, so this was very helpful. Appreciate you recording this.
Thank you so much man , I appreciate this . First time working on my car and I was able to do it with ease
Also I don’t know if it’s different on some cars , on mine it was an 11 mm to bleed them , and a 13 instead of a 12 for the bolt with the hole in it.
Pretty straight forward and worked great for me! Thanks 😊
thanks. just want I needed for my 2014 STX 2.0T that I replaced the front calipers on a min ago. Did not do this on the first side and it was instant "Mush" pedal. ALWAYS top off the reservoir before bleeding. I top mine up & will bleed it down to the Max line. GG
I'm going for it this weekend.
Thanks buddy! Perfect video explanation. Cheers! 🇨🇦
Cheers to you, my northern friend!
Thanks for this video!
Glad it helped!
It worked great for me. Thanks man
Exactly what I needed to know. Thank you.
Thank you for the info now time to get dirty!
Awesome job. Thanks for sharing
Great vid.
Do you have the torque specs for the various nuts and bolts in your DIY??
Not off hand I'm sure you can find them online though.
Do you put that rubber cap back on the banjo bolt after bleeding
Great video, thank you!
How do you know when all the air is out when you open the bleeder
Usually the only way to tell if air is still in any brake system is by the feel of the pedal. I typically let them drip for a min or two when gravity bleeding. You can pump the pedal up before putting the wheel on and after closing the bleeder valve to get a feel for it. If the pedal still feels soft after a test drive just break the bleeder valve open again for a few min
Any idea why it would still be dripping from the pin after it has been completely tightened down? I had to use the old banjo bolt
By the pin you're talking about the banjo bolt or bleeder valve ?
Do these need replaced in pairs?
If your going by the book yes.
@@danthebrakeman thank you sir
What to do if brakes are alittle squishy after completing front calipers?
Than you need to re bleed the system it still has air in it
@@danthebrakeman do I try the gravity bleeding again or should I have someone pump the brakes? Thanks
FYI - dont use the new bolts....they are cheap alloy and can strip and break easier and mostly just crap. They will loosen up over time.... the OEM bolts are usually made of a better material.
I really lost you when you put the valve and things on the back of the rotor that's very important to me and wasn't covered very well, like I need to know how to put that valve back in and you didn't make a very good video in that part I have never bled breaks and no it did not help so I have to find a different video