Perfect. Once I saw the principle I was able to fix my PTO pin with stuff I had lying around and was back in the field within an hour. UA-cam at its finest! Many thanks for posting.
The washer was "set" in place by using a puch ro deform the lip to capture the washer. Its like peening a pin into place to stop it from coming out. Old school but works great. To replace the washer and spring you would file out the 3 peening deformations, inset your pin and spring assembly, then peen three new keeps into the lip of the hole to hold it in place. A circle is the only shape that can't fall through itself so it will hold the washer in place.
Drive it in with a socket 1/8" smaller than the washer and an extension bar. It will let you push down squarely and keep everything straight, but still let the washer flex up on the edges and lock in past those little bits of rolled over metal.
Thank You! I just bought an old tractor for bush hogging. The pto shaft almost fell off when I was using it. Really scared me. Every other shaft I was able to look at was the ring style lock. Very frustrating and I finally found this. Just hard to find what you need when you don’t know what to call it. Shaft is in good shape so just going to clean it up and do the same thing. Also found a high quality replacement shield. Just better to repair what you have. I would spray some fluid film in the spring chamber.
If you would ream the area where the washer goes first it will fall in place, after that you only need to "stake" the washer in place just as it was done at the factory. Those little dashes are stake marks.
Very cool to find a video for this issue! Appreciate you taking the time to film and upload. My spring seems fine but the rust and grit between the barrel and pin won't let it move freely. I'm on the fence about whether to repair it or just deal with it because I can move the pin in by taping it in with a hammer, and I can move it back out by taping a nail through the washer on the other side. Mine is on a post hole digger as well, and the thought of the repeated irritation when I don't really know how many times I'll need to swap implements during this project makes me want to do it right. I'm thinking about using a dremel to grind the retaining ears off, but I'm a little shy about peening the yoke to retain the washer because it's a cast part. The last time I smacked a cast part hard enough to move a little metal, the part fractured and that was that. These yokes look a little more substantial though, so I might give it a shot while I hold my breath.
@@IndyFarmLife I got lucky! Given more time to soak with penetrating oil, it started to move freely on its own. I almost never catch that kind of break, so it was a happy surprise. Thanks to your upload, if I have this issue again in the future and oiling doesn't work, I'll know how to go about fixing or replacing it. Cheers!
I'd put a socket the size of that washer and square it up that way. A weld could mess up the hole if you ever had to repair it again. Liked the video. I've got the same problem with the hole on the other side. I'll keep searching.
PTO pins are something you don't think about until they are gone. Thanks for this great video. Now I can look at my yoke and figure out if it has the washer on the end or uses a clip on the narrow end to hold the pin in place.
Those groves are called keys. That's how they use to do things instead of threading. It was cheaper and easier. They also use to key screw heads so they wouldn't creep out. The railroad does that on some equipment to this day.
@@IndyFarmLife i have the pin and spring. The pin has a rim one the end of it and the springs is tapered. The spring must slip over the end of the pin, under the the lip that holds it on
@@cornellterry6484 See below. Something very similar to this. There are multiple to choose from. www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/weasler-locking-repair-kit-qd-1-3-8-in-6-spline?cm_vc=-10005
Perfect. Once I saw the principle I was able to fix my PTO pin with stuff I had lying around and was back in the field within an hour. UA-cam at its finest! Many thanks for posting.
The washer was "set" in place by using a puch ro deform the lip to capture the washer. Its like peening a pin into place to stop it from coming out. Old school but works great. To replace the washer and spring you would file out the 3 peening deformations, inset your pin and spring assembly, then peen three new keeps into the lip of the hole to hold it in place. A circle is the only shape that can't fall through itself so it will hold the washer in place.
Thanks! I just got an older auger with a currently stationary yoke pin. Now after seeing this I can try to loosen and see if it needs replacing.
Drive it in with a socket 1/8" smaller than the washer and an extension bar. It will let you push down squarely and keep everything straight, but still let the washer flex up on the edges and lock in past those little bits of rolled over metal.
Working on fixing my PTO shaft with the same problem. Thanks for the insight
Thank You! I just bought an old tractor for bush hogging. The pto shaft almost fell off when I was using it. Really scared me. Every other shaft I was able to look at was the ring style lock. Very frustrating and I finally found this. Just hard to find what you need when you don’t know what to call it.
Shaft is in good shape so just going to clean it up and do the same thing. Also found a high quality replacement shield. Just better to repair what you have. I would spray some fluid film in the spring chamber.
Anxiously awaiting some beautiful welding footage
Mine is getting done today. Thanks bought 3 different size pins & spring kits figured I would have to rob parts to make it happen
haha that's how I do it too. Just buy one of everything they have to save multiple trips, then return what you don't need :)
If you would ream the area where the washer goes first it will fall in place, after that you only need to "stake" the washer in place just as it was done at the factory. Those little dashes are stake marks.
Thanks for sharing! Always cool to learn the correct terminology.
Thanks. I was thinking about a new mower but will fix this old one up instead.
Thanks for sharing, very helpful !
Glad it was helpful!
Need this in the morn for my roto tiller
@@IndyFarmLife ty yes I did
Very cool to find a video for this issue! Appreciate you taking the time to film and upload. My spring seems fine but the rust and grit between the barrel and pin won't let it move freely. I'm on the fence about whether to repair it or just deal with it because I can move the pin in by taping it in with a hammer, and I can move it back out by taping a nail through the washer on the other side. Mine is on a post hole digger as well, and the thought of the repeated irritation when I don't really know how many times I'll need to swap implements during this project makes me want to do it right. I'm thinking about using a dremel to grind the retaining ears off, but I'm a little shy about peening the yoke to retain the washer because it's a cast part. The last time I smacked a cast part hard enough to move a little metal, the part fractured and that was that. These yokes look a little more substantial though, so I might give it a shot while I hold my breath.
Glad it was helpful! Hopefully you were able to get yours fixed. Always frustrating when something this small can cause such headaches.
@@IndyFarmLife I got lucky! Given more time to soak with penetrating oil, it started to move freely on its own. I almost never catch that kind of break, so it was a happy surprise. Thanks to your upload, if I have this issue again in the future and oiling doesn't work, I'll know how to go about fixing or replacing it. Cheers!
Thanks....you saved me a lot of time!
I'd put a socket the size of that washer and square it up that way. A weld could mess up the hole if you ever had to repair it again. Liked the video. I've got the same problem with the hole on the other side. I'll keep searching.
Thanks for the video. I’m be trying to do the same thing this weekend
Great job! You must be related. Your fix looks like most of mine on my equipment. LOL
Thank you
PTO pins are something you don't think about until they are gone. Thanks for this great video. Now I can look at my yoke and figure out if it has the washer on the end or uses a clip on the narrow end to hold the pin in place.
Those groves are called keys. That's how they use to do things instead of threading. It was cheaper and easier. They also use to key screw heads so they wouldn't creep out. The railroad does that on some equipment to this day.
Ok, well what if you have one that is a tapered spring that slips over the locking pin? How do you get the locking pin over the spring?
Hmm I think I would need to see it to understand your question.
@@IndyFarmLife i have the pin and spring. The pin has a rim one the end of it and the springs is tapered. The spring must slip over the end of the pin, under the the lip that holds it on
Looks iffy to me also, a spot weld might help.
Where did you get it from
Tractor Supply
What’s the name of the
What’s the name of it
@@cornellterry6484 See below. Something very similar to this. There are multiple to choose from.
www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/weasler-locking-repair-kit-qd-1-3-8-in-6-spline?cm_vc=-10005
Very helpful to me, thank you.
You're welcome!