I'm very late to the game here, but awesome video. This answered a lot of questions I have had in wiring my sensors. I've been stocking up on Metripak connectors, pins, etc to try to do this as cleanly and gaplessly as possible, while making repairs and diagnosis as easy as possible later on. Originally, I had mounted several terminal blocks to my electrical panel, but have since made a new panel without them and have been stressing about how to pull multiple +5V sensor, 12v sensor, and sensor grounds in an organized and reliable fashion. Seeing the "Octopus" you showed in this video helped tremendously, along with the step down butt connectors you showed in another video... I didn't know these existed. Thank you for everything, and keep up the great content.
His videos remind me when I started working on cars, showed my dad my progress and he ripped me for the stuff I did wrong LOL . Earned a new subscriber
I currently have a carburetor but I’m really thinking about going Holley sniper. And watching these videos is really persuasive. Side note. I’m horrible at making wiring look good but good at making it electrically sound.
Your right about writing a car. I’ve seen on another channel that they wired a resistor box in a Honda and had poor connection for the fuel injectors, guess what happened, burnt piston. Very important, you do quality work.
Good basic stuff, but if you don't know or haven't thought of it or been there before, you just don't know. I get a ton of easy lessons from, lessen you have possibly learned the hard way and are willing to share, Big Thanks...
That’s funny, I comment at the beginning that those scotch locks should outlawed and you said it at the end of the video, I’m a tech and hate it when I see those things especially when they’re outside the vehicle.
Couldn't agree more about the pigtail ends. If a guy can't crimp terminals and push them into a connector properly, there is a good chance he won't solder and heat shrink a pigtail end to make a proper connection.
Hey, I'm installing an HP EFI on a Suzuki Hayabusa. This will be the 3rd Busa I've installed the an HP on, but I'm running into a problem that I can't figure out! The setup for the bike is Crank: 24-1 Magnetic, Cam: Single Pulse, Digital Rising, DIS Coil-On-Plug. I'm having a no start issue with the bike because there's 12v flowing back out of the cam signal wire (A22). The bike starts fine under non-sequential mode, but won't start with cam because of the signal wire issue. These are the same settings we use on all the Busa's! 5v reference to pin A26 and the ground to A14 (I also tried using A18 for the ground). The cam sensor is not hooked while I'm checking the voltage that's coming out of signal pin A22, so it's not the cam sensor! This is a clean (Super Clean) install! Can't figure it out! Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Awesome video, it's given me a lot of confidence on wiring my dominator, but I've got a couple quick questions. What are you doing with the shielding wire, are you grounding it to a14 as well? What exactly is a Z splice, I've searched them with no luck, and lastly what are the plugs that you're using on your multi sensor setup?
Devin , great video’s !! I think I whatched them all .. . As far as RFI/EMI goes , how about the spark plugs? Do I need to use resistor plugs witb my holley efi? Thanks Denny
Great info in all your videos!! One question though running a Maven Bulkhead connector is it OK to run the transducer wires through that or run them separate just the red grommet? Thanks just for nitrous controller not EFI
Like the quality of work. Question on switched power wire to Holley ECU, best practices on this wire? Use a relay to battery, just go on the ignition switch? What have you seen work best? I have noticed you don’t have a second wire going to battery for this to power relay, can the wire be shared with the switched power to CD box?
awesome video man.. this is the kind of info i need to see. i'll be building out a full harness with holley super sniper efi soon. i do have 2 questions i hope you can help with - 1. where's the best place to buy one of those metri-pack connector sets? 2. when you talked about your 8 sensor pigtail, you mentioned a "Z" splice?? I tried googling around with no luck.. can you point me in the right direction for how this is done?
Would bad chassis / engine ground make a oil pressure sensor read wrong and all out of wack? Oil pressure read negative 2lbs in my Holley dash. I’m using a Holley HP ecu.
Booted connectors IS INDUSTRY STANDARD when you deal with professional autosport wiring. I use at BARE MINIMUM TXL and for autosport, its Tefzel wire. Concentric twisted, service looped, DR25 covered with a heat shrink boot. That is industry standard. Yes, its expensive,. No, you wont spend time between rounds fixing shit wiring. This is a much bigger deal for road racing, endurance, off road racing that drag racing, but I consider it all the same. High temps, heavy vibration and constant servicing makes that a necessity.
As far as price on that wire harness. It’s probably cheaper. You said, roughly 85$ for a hundred feet. That’s for 3 wires, plus shielded, bonus, cheap wire at local parts store is probably around the same but for just 1 wire in that little spool.
Great video thank you for posting. Can you please provide which crimps you do use for splicing under the heat wrap from the "octopus looking thing" in the video? I've been googling Z Crimp and T crimp and all I can find are the ones that you specifically say not to use. I agree with you entirely that the bad ones you showed should never be used for any application but am looking for the correct way to do it.
Hey brother I just finished wiring the Holley hp efi. Tried to go for my first start up and nothing. Motor turns over but no injectors or spark. I checked computer and it's reading all the sensors, the crank sensor shows red dot and says stall... when cracking it goes between stall and sync...but then back to stall. Data log shows flatline crank signal. Replaced crank 2x alrdy😖😖 I'm out of ideas
we use alot of different switch panels from many different vendors, if there is something in particular you're interested in feel free to reach out via email hcr_innovations@hotmail.com
Hey, what does your schedule look like? Do you think that you could get me in before the end of April? I have a single turbo 2 valve mod motor, Holley Dominator, all of the grounding is done, all components are in their place. I'm needing chassis wiring done too, windows, locks, mirrors, trunk release, headlights, signals etc.
what wire do you recommend for cable carrying a load like 12v to crank starter and to all you lights such as head lights and accessories like a oil scavage pump and fuel pumps I'm using #10 THHW electrical wire lol that you would use in your house but looks like shit so looking for a cleaner option
I sure wish your camera man would keep his hand on the microphone. Some of the stuff I’d like to hear either was muffled down to nothing or it sounded like someone was digging around in a chip bag lol.
@@allansimonson8971 Yes. As I understand it the braided cover should be grounded to drain the noise. Some say t battery ground is fine, others say to holley ground. I have mine grounded to battery, but datalogs show slight noise.I'd post a pic of how my cables are done, but I can't
Thank you for these videos… very appreciated!
I'm very late to the game here, but awesome video. This answered a lot of questions I have had in wiring my sensors. I've been stocking up on Metripak connectors, pins, etc to try to do this as cleanly and gaplessly as possible, while making repairs and diagnosis as easy as possible later on. Originally, I had mounted several terminal blocks to my electrical panel, but have since made a new panel without them and have been stressing about how to pull multiple +5V sensor, 12v sensor, and sensor grounds in an organized and reliable fashion. Seeing the "Octopus" you showed in this video helped tremendously, along with the step down butt connectors you showed in another video... I didn't know these existed. Thank you for everything, and keep up the great content.
Thanks for all the valuable info.
your obsessive attention to detail on wiring earned you a new sub. love this kind of stuff
His videos remind me when I started working on cars, showed my dad my progress and he ripped me for the stuff I did wrong LOL . Earned a new subscriber
Just found your channel, great information. Going to be switching my car from a 411 conversion (94 Impala SS with procharger) to a Holley Dominator
Always great content very cool tricks and tips for Holley and general EFI. Thank you.
Thanks for answering all the questions throughout all your videos nice work bro
Thanks your videos are very thorough I have learned a lot from you.👍👍
Two words… you’re awesome!!
I currently have a carburetor but I’m really thinking about going Holley sniper. And watching these videos is really persuasive. Side note. I’m horrible at making wiring look good but good at making it electrically sound.
Super rad videos! Thanks for doing these!
Started to binge watch . Seen you on FB and landed here . Wow
Your right about writing a car. I’ve seen on another channel that they wired a resistor box in a Honda and had poor connection for the fuel injectors, guess what happened, burnt piston. Very important, you do quality work.
Thanks for these videos, super helpful for newbs like me trying to up their game
Glad to help
Good basic stuff, but if you don't know or haven't thought of it or been there before, you just don't know. I get a ton of easy lessons from, lessen you have possibly learned the hard way and are willing to share, Big Thanks...
Thanks a lot for your videos!
Thanx!
Thanks for the great tips
Great info, keep it real! Thanks
That’s funny, I comment at the beginning that those scotch locks should outlawed and you said it at the end of the video, I’m a tech and hate it when I see those things especially when they’re outside the vehicle.
Great Video!
Thanks good info
👍👍👍
Couldn't agree more about the pigtail ends. If a guy can't crimp terminals and push them into a connector properly, there is a good chance he won't solder and heat shrink a pigtail end to make a proper connection.
Hi Great video and informative, but at 5.54 minutes you stated where you get these plugs from but the sound dropped out thank you
Hey, I'm installing an HP EFI on a Suzuki Hayabusa. This will be the 3rd Busa I've installed the an HP on, but I'm running into a problem that I can't figure out! The setup for the bike is Crank: 24-1 Magnetic, Cam: Single Pulse, Digital Rising, DIS Coil-On-Plug. I'm having a no start issue with the bike because there's 12v flowing back out of the cam signal wire (A22). The bike starts fine under non-sequential mode, but won't start with cam because of the signal wire issue. These are the same settings we use on all the Busa's! 5v reference to pin A26 and the ground to A14 (I also tried using A18 for the ground). The cam sensor is not hooked while I'm checking the voltage that's coming out of signal pin A22, so it's not the cam sensor! This is a clean (Super Clean) install! Can't figure it out! Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Your bloody right I’m afraid of it,...I Hope if I watch enough of your videos I won’t be, famous last words.
Thanks 👍
Thanks!
Awesome video, it's given me a lot of confidence on wiring my dominator, but I've got a couple quick questions. What are you doing with the shielding wire, are you grounding it to a14 as well? What exactly is a Z splice, I've searched them with no luck, and lastly what are the plugs that you're using on your multi sensor setup?
Devin , great video’s !! I think I whatched them all .. . As far as RFI/EMI goes , how about the spark plugs? Do I need to use resistor plugs witb my holley efi?
Thanks Denny
Thanks👍👍👍
Great info in all your videos!! One question though running a Maven Bulkhead connector is it OK to run the transducer wires through that or run them separate just the red grommet? Thanks just for nitrous controller not EFI
I always find your videos helpful... with the dome pressure sensor what pinouts do I use 5v ground and sensor? I'm running the hp ecu right now
What are u talking about when u did that octopus thing for the 5 volt supply thank u
Like the quality of work. Question on switched power wire to Holley ECU, best practices on this wire? Use a relay to battery, just go on the ignition switch? What have you seen work best? I have noticed you don’t have a second wire going to battery for this to power relay, can the wire be shared with the switched power to CD box?
Thank you for all the tips! I know that you mentioned the butt connections. Did you make a video showing a proper butt connection?
awesome video man.. this is the kind of info i need to see. i'll be building out a full harness with holley super sniper efi soon. i do have 2 questions i hope you can help with - 1. where's the best place to buy one of those metri-pack connector sets? 2. when you talked about your 8 sensor pigtail, you mentioned a "Z" splice?? I tried googling around with no luck.. can you point me in the right direction for how this is done?
Thanks
Where can I buy just the pins for the J2 j4 connectors? Thatnks for all the good vids.
Thx
How do you do your power and ground to individual power and ground circuits. If you dont use the smartwire..
Would bad chassis / engine ground make a oil pressure sensor read wrong and all out of wack? Oil pressure read negative 2lbs in my Holley dash. I’m using a Holley HP ecu.
Booted connectors IS INDUSTRY STANDARD when you deal with professional autosport wiring. I use at BARE MINIMUM TXL and for autosport, its Tefzel wire. Concentric twisted, service looped, DR25 covered with a heat shrink boot. That is industry standard. Yes, its expensive,. No, you wont spend time between rounds fixing shit wiring. This is a much bigger deal for road racing, endurance, off road racing that drag racing, but I consider it all the same. High temps, heavy vibration and constant servicing makes that a necessity.
As far as price on that wire harness. It’s probably cheaper. You said, roughly 85$ for a hundred feet. That’s for 3 wires, plus shielded, bonus, cheap wire at local parts store is probably around the same but for just 1 wire in that little spool.
Great video thank you for posting. Can you please provide which crimps you do use for splicing under the heat wrap from the "octopus looking thing" in the video?
I've been googling Z Crimp and T crimp and all I can find are the ones that you specifically say not to use. I agree with you entirely that the bad ones you showed should never be used for any application but am looking for the correct way to do it.
Came here to ask just that. Did you ever get it figured out? I don't know what I am looking for since it is hidden under the wrap lol.
Do you have a link to the GT150 connector?
Hey brother I just finished wiring the Holley hp efi. Tried to go for my first start up and nothing. Motor turns over but no injectors or spark. I checked computer and it's reading all the sensors, the crank sensor shows red dot and says stall... when cracking it goes between stall and sync...but then back to stall. Data log shows flatline crank signal. Replaced crank 2x alrdy😖😖 I'm out of ideas
Do you use GXL or TXL wire when adding or modifying harnesses?
We only use tefzel. But a holley harness is made with txl
Great info, greatly appreciated! Can you tell more about the switch panel? TIA
we use alot of different switch panels from many different vendors, if there is something in particular you're interested in feel free to reach out via email hcr_innovations@hotmail.com
Hey, what does your schedule look like? Do you think that you could get me in before the end of April? I have a single turbo 2 valve mod motor, Holley Dominator, all of the grounding is done, all components are in their place. I'm needing chassis wiring done too, windows, locks, mirrors, trunk release, headlights, signals etc.
April of this year ?
@@theholleyefiguy Yeah, I know the odds are slim to none but the answer is always no if it isn't asked! LOL
Just FYI, I'm your biggest fan! Subbed, "like" and Bell! LOL Great appreciation for your dialog and sarcasm pertaining to redundant Q&A!
Metro pack? do you have a website for them? I've looked and haven't been able to find them yet.
Found metri pack made by delphi.
ghetto magic
What the part numbers for the three wire cables?
572-104
what wire do you recommend for cable carrying a load like 12v to crank starter and to all you lights such as head lights and accessories like a oil scavage pump and fuel pumps I'm using #10 THHW electrical wire lol that you would use in your house but looks like shit so looking for a cleaner option
Lots of good tips here. It really sucks to DNF from a race because your wiring is a hack job!
I sure wish your camera man would keep his hand on the microphone. Some of the stuff I’d like to hear either was muffled down to nothing or it sounded like someone was digging around in a chip bag lol.
How do you like to ground your shielded cable wire?
The shielding itself? A14 of p1A
@@allansimonson8971 Yes. As I understand it the braided cover should be grounded to drain the noise. Some say t battery ground is fine, others say to holley ground. I have mine grounded to battery, but datalogs show slight noise.I'd post a pic of how my cables are done, but I can't
Direct to battery is probably ok, but Holley is probably better.
I’m guilty. Changing my ways.
Are you a dealer for Holley EFI and do you wire race cars? Contact number?
Fix the title lol
whats wrong with the title
You did not ramble at all...