I attached some clear hose to the end of a collection of water hoses for a 215 ft run. The water in the hose will level out & with the clear tubing I have a point to measure from. I used 1% slope so 215 ft x 12 in x .01 slope = 25.8 in of drop.
@Libertarian 4 Ever Take a string level $1.99 any hardware store buy 2 T post TSC (Tractor Supply Company) run string level T post to T post.. For every 100 inches (Horizontal) you need 1 inch (Vertical) of drop for 1% slope. Take a tape measure and keep checking it from the level string to the ground. If you have more slope (Fall) take it.......all of it because more slope equals higher velocity (speed) resulting in more GPM (Gallons Per Minute). Velocity increases PSI (Pounds per Square Inch). This is very beneficial for gutter Downspout underground runs because it pushes out any shingle Gravel/Debris collected in the gutters from the roof. Great Question!
Just google how to make a water level using a long length of 1/4 inch clear plastic tubing, which u fill with water and some food dye so u can see the level. It is dead accurate and dirt cheap. Beats lasers.
I'm glad you didn't confuse us diy'ers..I barely have two brain cells to rub together.will be using the tree root barrier pipe my trees are bigger than that bush/shrub.i won't be using Screened washed gravel unfourtunatly.😂😎😢
i purchased from your website all equipment for french drain system but was not able to see there option to buy TREE ROOT BARRIER. Do you know the way to get one? Thank You
I'm curious if the open culvert pipe is perforated? Also, I'm thinking about purchasing some to apply to an upcoming french drain in my yard that will run close to 3 different, smaller trees. I've seen how you mention that roots will eventually lift the drain up a bit, as they grow with the tree... and I'm just confused on how you create a drain to continually slope downward while adding some culvert, which you said (in another video) you lay in quite a bit deeper than the depth of a regular drain..? Once the roots grow and lift the culvert-part of the drain upward, won't that cause issues with drain flow? And my last question is why do you lay the culvert on top of the cloth and not underneath it? Have you ever experimented with the culvert against the clay underneath the cloth, with the smaller pipes and gravel, etc, on top of it? -Thank you :-)
I'm amazed at the amount of money some people have. I got a few quotes here in NJ for a simple French drain, and this work easily looks to be 2 to 3 times that. I'd love to know what these cost
Mike S I think I'm going to rent a trencher buy 50 feet of pipe, fabric and stone then drill a hole into the rain water drain and call it a day.....maybe $600-700. I also live in NJ and know someone would want o charge $5000
Included stone yes, but wanted to use NDS EZ Drain so I'm not sure why. He wanted to use two NDS dry Wells too but I think the system was too big for those small Wells. Also included 16 hrs of labor which I believe is way overkill Problem with a trencher is it doesn't get nearly as wide as you need for a drain. That's why most reputable companies use a digger.
Why not a single 6? Theoretically, a 6" will flow more than a dual 4". I understand that with dual 4", there is more area to allow water to flow into the pipes.
I agree it's on outlet control but he may not need that much discharge. [Using the standard black tile ratings as an example] the intake is fairly significant as dual 4s will intake around 100 GPM per foot where a single 6 would only intake around 60 GPM per foot.
At about 4:50 he started to explain. If you look closely you will notice one pipe is an 8 slot pipe and the other is a 4 slot pipe. The 8 slot grabs water faster from the front yard and begins to backup just as a single 6 inch 8 slot pipe would. While the pipe is full water cann't drain from the back yard and as he said home owners don't like that. Think what he is saying because the 4 slot doesn't fill as fast it doesn't backup allowing water from the back yard to drain sooner.
@@awd3264 One four inch corrugated pipes installed at 2% slope can only move around 65 gallons per minute where a six inch corrugated pipe could move around 189 gallons per minute at a 2% slope. The idea that one pipe running alongside the other pipe is going to grab up water at a faster rate is quite ridiculous if 'outlet control' is taken into consideration.
@@waterwizard5280 I don't believe those numbers. Maybe 2 four inch discharge at 480 GPM if we include flow through rocks if it's a french drain. With 6" being 2" taller I'd like to see the lower-center-of-gravity provided by dual 4"s, maybe they could produce 480. IME the constant flow charts are within an acceptable range for guessing but 480 isn't possible on my charts.
You mentioned "Clay Pudding". That describes my yard to a "T". My low areas are also a leach field. Is it ok to add dirt over top of a leech field to make the low spots somewhere else in the yard that I can put a french drain to?
Grass need at least 8" soil depth because soil hold water and nutrients, i see you put grass direcly geotextile. Most probably they became yellow in a week.
Sami Kurtköylü that's funny because the grass that grows over half of my neighbors sidewalk is as green as can be and its growing over concrete. I think grass will grow everywhere.
Why dont you just use solid 6 inch sdr35 pipe with catch basins and it will take it out faster than that system and you have a way to clean it out and dont have to worry about root.
No offence intended here, but you're not very good at explaining what we, the "DIYers" are looking at, and you often don't speak in complete sentences to finish off your thought. All we see is a "double barrel" yellow tube inside another but bigger black tube, while you're bitching about how other people are stupid and don't know what the hell they're doing. Yes, I figured out what was going on, but with no help from you really. For example, is that bigger black tube going to continue all the way to the end, housing the "double barrel" or is it only necessary in some areas, and not others? Again, I'm not trying to start something with you, I'm just pointing out that if you're making these videos to show people the proper way to do it, you should really focus on explaining the issue you're trying to solve in that particual part of the yard, and and how in the hell the end of the drain tubes are going to draing the water when the pipes are 24" below ground without a sump pump. And, why were your guys putting sod directly on top of that fabric?
@@SlackerU if it's impossible to get away from trees, is PVC the only answer? and extra guard the couplings with adhesive and an agri-drain type tape? Roots got into my 4" corrugated couplings - not sure how old the system is (at least 5 years) - and complete blockage. So that seems to be the biggest threat to my system here.
@@alchemista2 Impossible is inaccurate if you're willing to participate in the additional root maintenance. My city (& insurance companies) don't permit corrugated & the #2 reason they provide as to why is that a tree root growing past the flexible pipe can lift a small section of that pipe far easier than a stiffer pipe. For that reason the flexible pipe can't provide a guarantee that it can maintain its slope for the duration of the lifecycle of the plastic it's made of. So if the pipe can survive 40-100 years then the installation-design/practice/requirements of that pipe should closely meet those lifecycle-expectations.
@@SlackerU I'm definitely looking for lowest maintenance, I have enough other stuff to maintain too. So PVC only? I didn't notice any root intrusion on single-wall corrugated (non-perf), just at the junctions. So it seems if someone had sealed the junctions tightly then this wouldn't have happened. But PVC seems easier. I'd likely have to be doing root maintenance every week where I live, if I don't do a root-proof solution :(
@@alchemista2 If you peak into my stormwater-playlist you'll find roots in everything. Sure solid-corrugated wouldn't get invaded with roots but it would still be affected by my cities #2 reason for not permitting it. Also if your 4in corrugated isn't installed at 2.8% slope then you may not be getting a velocity of 3fps for self-cleaning, where smooth-wall only needs .78% slope. IDK the environmental rules/laws but you might research/try plugging the end & allow some septic-root-killer(copper) to soak into your french-drain, though it may do more damage than good.
![How to Collect Surface Yard Water Using Your French Drain Trench [ Work Smarter Not Harder Easy DIY]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/i9HROS4M9yw/mqdefault.jpg)
![How to Collect Surface Yard Water Using Your French Drain Trench [ Work Smarter Not Harder Easy DIY]](/img/tr.png)
Im so glad how much you do I tried to tell my old boss.
We need a video showing the DIY guy how to slope the trench without a laser level.
I attached some clear hose to the end of a collection of water hoses for a 215 ft run. The water in the hose will level out & with the clear tubing I have a point to measure from. I used 1% slope so 215 ft x 12 in x .01 slope = 25.8 in of drop.
Use a water level. Simple and cheap.
If you have string, and no hose with clear tube extension, try a string-line level…
www.johnsonlevel.com/News/LineLevels
@Libertarian 4 Ever Take a string level $1.99 any hardware store buy 2 T post TSC (Tractor Supply Company) run string level T post to T post.. For every 100 inches (Horizontal) you need 1 inch (Vertical) of drop for 1% slope. Take a tape measure and keep checking it from the level string to the ground. If you have more slope (Fall) take it.......all of it because more slope equals higher velocity (speed) resulting in more GPM (Gallons Per Minute). Velocity increases PSI (Pounds per Square Inch). This is very beneficial for gutter Downspout underground runs because it pushes out any shingle Gravel/Debris collected in the gutters from the roof.
Great Question!
@@bob-ny6kn Thank You for Sharing.
Seems like there’s a bit of a “Cold War” between the French Drain Man and Chick at Apple Drains. Different philosophies and practices for sure.
you mean chuck not chick lol
Do you have any videos with tips on how to measure the slope over a 100' length - before digging - and after placing the pipe?
Just google how to make a water level using a long length of 1/4 inch clear plastic tubing, which u fill with water and some food dye so u can see the level. It is dead accurate and dirt cheap. Beats lasers.
I'm glad you didn't confuse us diy'ers..I barely have two brain cells to rub together.will be using the tree root barrier pipe my trees are bigger than that bush/shrub.i won't be using Screened washed gravel unfourtunatly.😂😎😢
Great videos. I’ve learned a ton from you!
i purchased from your website all equipment for french drain system but was not able to see there option to buy TREE ROOT BARRIER. Do you know the way to get one? Thank You
I'm curious if the open culvert pipe is perforated? Also, I'm thinking about purchasing some to apply to an upcoming french drain in my yard that will run close to 3 different, smaller trees. I've seen how you mention that roots will eventually lift the drain up a bit, as they grow with the tree... and I'm just confused on how you create a drain to continually slope downward while adding some culvert, which you said (in another video) you lay in quite a bit deeper than the depth of a regular drain..? Once the roots grow and lift the culvert-part of the drain upward, won't that cause issues with drain flow?
And my last question is why do you lay the culvert on top of the cloth and not underneath it? Have you ever experimented with the culvert against the clay underneath the cloth, with the smaller pipes and gravel, etc, on top of it? -Thank you :-)
ua-cam.com/play/PLjFCqaZ4v1BVyusRT3qfGPooNnHpHaoJg.html&si=D4Ha75p6XLKOEj7C
How do you tie the double barrel pipe run into sump pit?
Very informative..thank you.
What's the size of the culvert pipe?
We use 12" and 15" because the OD gets stupid in a hurry. 15 inch is 18 1/2 OD so that one looks like a 12 inch single wall.
Does the 4" 8 hole yellow pipe move water as fast as the 4" 8 hole high octane blue pipe? Are they both considered "high octane"?
ua-cam.com/video/zGu24mrOmPE/v-deo.html
I'm amazed at the amount of money some people have. I got a few quotes here in NJ for a simple French drain, and this work easily looks to be 2 to 3 times that. I'd love to know what these cost
What type of cost were you getting there? Did they quote you per linear foot?
120 ft, doubled up. For 240' of nds it was $6200
@@milaclais did that include stone and fabric?? Sounds expensive around there!!!
Mike S I think I'm going to rent a trencher buy 50 feet of pipe, fabric and stone then drill a hole into the rain water drain and call it a day.....maybe $600-700. I also live in NJ and know someone would want o charge $5000
Included stone yes, but wanted to use NDS EZ Drain so I'm not sure why. He wanted to use two NDS dry Wells too but I think the system was too big for those small Wells. Also included 16 hrs of labor which I believe is way overkill
Problem with a trencher is it doesn't get nearly as wide as you need for a drain. That's why most reputable companies use a digger.
Why not a single 6? Theoretically, a 6" will flow more than a dual 4". I understand that with dual 4", there is more area to allow water to flow into the pipes.
I agree it's on outlet control but he may not need that much discharge. [Using the standard black tile ratings as an example] the intake is fairly significant as dual 4s will intake around 100 GPM per foot where a single 6 would only intake around 60 GPM per foot.
At about 4:50 he started to explain. If you look closely you will notice one pipe is an 8 slot pipe and the other is a 4 slot pipe. The 8 slot grabs water faster from the front yard and begins to backup just as a single 6 inch 8 slot pipe would. While the pipe is full water cann't drain from the back yard and as he said home owners don't like that. Think what he is saying because the 4 slot doesn't fill as fast it doesn't backup allowing water from the back yard to drain sooner.
@@awd3264 One four inch corrugated pipes installed at 2% slope can only move around 65 gallons per minute where a six inch corrugated pipe could move around 189 gallons per minute at a 2% slope. The idea that one pipe running alongside the other pipe is going to grab up water at a faster rate is quite ridiculous if 'outlet control' is taken into consideration.
@@SlackerU
But here's a twist 6 inch can move 550 GPM at the point discharge. 2 four inch discharge 480 GPM with 1% slope.
@@waterwizard5280 I don't believe those numbers. Maybe 2 four inch discharge at 480 GPM if we include flow through rocks if it's a french drain. With 6" being 2" taller I'd like to see the lower-center-of-gravity provided by dual 4"s, maybe they could produce 480. IME the constant flow charts are within an acceptable range for guessing but 480 isn't possible on my charts.
Nice video
Does the pipe need to be covered with stone and non woven fabric if the land is all sand?
You mentioned "Clay Pudding". That describes my yard to a "T". My low areas are also a leach field. Is it ok to add dirt over top of a leech field to make the low spots somewhere else in the yard that I can put a french drain to?
Grass need at least 8" soil depth because soil hold water and nutrients, i see you put grass direcly geotextile. Most probably they became yellow in a week.
Sami Kurtköylü that's funny because the grass that grows over half of my neighbors sidewalk is as green as can be and its growing over concrete. I think grass will grow everywhere.
Why dont you just use solid 6 inch sdr35 pipe with catch basins and it will take it out faster than that system and you have a way to clean it out and dont have to worry about root.
No sub-surface drainage
Do you do any work in the toledo area?
Apple drain is a joke compared to you guys. Props
M60hein I've attempted to do videos and business with Chuck because I believe we could really have a lot of fun for all of us. Has not responded.
No offence intended here, but you're not very good at explaining what we, the "DIYers" are looking at, and you often don't speak in complete sentences to finish off your thought. All we see is a "double barrel" yellow tube inside another but bigger black tube, while you're bitching about how other people are stupid and don't know what the hell they're doing. Yes, I figured out what was going on, but with no help from you really. For example, is that bigger black tube going to continue all the way to the end, housing the "double barrel" or is it only necessary in some areas, and not others? Again, I'm not trying to start something with you, I'm just pointing out that if you're making these videos to show people the proper way to do it, you should really focus on explaining the issue you're trying to solve in that particual part of the yard, and and how in the hell the end of the drain tubes are going to draing the water when the pipes are 24" below ground without a sump pump. And, why were your guys putting sod directly on top of that fabric?
The Hefty Brothers recommend that the drainage be installed at a distance equal to or greater than the hight of surrounding vegetation.
@@SlackerU if it's impossible to get away from trees, is PVC the only answer? and extra guard the couplings with adhesive and an agri-drain type tape? Roots got into my 4" corrugated couplings - not sure how old the system is (at least 5 years) - and complete blockage. So that seems to be the biggest threat to my system here.
@@alchemista2 Impossible is inaccurate if you're willing to participate in the additional root maintenance. My city (& insurance companies) don't permit corrugated & the #2 reason they provide as to why is that a tree root growing past the flexible pipe can lift a small section of that pipe far easier than a stiffer pipe. For that reason the flexible pipe can't provide a guarantee that it can maintain its slope for the duration of the lifecycle of the plastic it's made of. So if the pipe can survive 40-100 years then the installation-design/practice/requirements of that pipe should closely meet those lifecycle-expectations.
@@SlackerU I'm definitely looking for lowest maintenance, I have enough other stuff to maintain too. So PVC only? I didn't notice any root intrusion on single-wall corrugated (non-perf), just at the junctions. So it seems if someone had sealed the junctions tightly then this wouldn't have happened. But PVC seems easier.
I'd likely have to be doing root maintenance every week where I live, if I don't do a root-proof solution :(
@@alchemista2 If you peak into my stormwater-playlist you'll find roots in everything. Sure solid-corrugated wouldn't get invaded with roots but it would still be affected by my cities #2 reason for not permitting it. Also if your 4in corrugated isn't installed at 2.8% slope then you may not be getting a velocity of 3fps for self-cleaning, where smooth-wall only needs .78% slope. IDK the environmental rules/laws but you might research/try plugging the end & allow some septic-root-killer(copper) to soak into your french-drain, though it may do more damage than good.