A year of frustration is over. Took longer to find my wire stripper than to do the job. Plugged it back in and hot damn it fired back up. You are my hero today. Thanks.
I know this is from 2 years ago, but you just saved me from having to buy a whole new washer! I bought and installed 2 new lid switches thinking it was faulty parts.. but no it was the darn connector and by bypassing it, it works again! We have had this washer in the family since my parents bought it new over 20 years ago!
@@FixitWithFoxy this was 3 years ago... I no longer have that washer. But it's under the front panel... There should be 2 clipped in trim pieces on the front side. You take those off and there's screws underneath those.. there's a couple screws on the back if I remember correctly, but if I were you def look up other videos on how to open the control module then come back to this video
Bravo! Saved me a remodel of my laundry room to replace the unit just like the one in the video. (The space BARELY fits the current 15 year old units and while I could afford a brand new set, they are all wider and I would have to take out a wall to fit them in). Hopefully this fix buys me a few more years! THANK YOU!
You're welcome! It'll buy you way more than a few years, that machine can last forever and it's simple to fix if something goes wrong, and parts are inexpensive. I have many other repair videos on these types of washers, so in the rare event you do have a problem, you know who to go to!
This video saved me, we where doing laundry tonight before a big trip and the washer just stopped, I did this and now we will be able to have all our laundry done in time for the trip. Thank you
You're very welcome. It will last for way longer than 10 more years. Never get rid of it, fix it at any expense, you will never be able to buy another one because they stopped making them. I have other repair videos, and if you don't find one of mine, there are many others out there. Parts are cheap and plentiful, yet the machines rarely break.
Worked like a charm for me! I wasn't even sure if the lid switch was the problem because I don't have a ohm-meter or whatever. Too fancy. But the load of laundry stopped mid-cycle, and it would add more water but wouldn't spin. I read that the lid switch is a common culprit so I will get the part online. I'm a mom to a 5 month old and I needed to be able to do laundry NOW!
Glad I was able to help out! Multimeters aren't expensive, Harbor Freight often has coupons giving them away free with purchase--go in, buy a pack of batteries you can always use, and get a free meter. More than plenty enough for simple testing like this.
Omg I fixed my machine. I did exactly what you showed. I previously did a different way and it caught fire and melted part of the black adapter. With electrical tape. I used an electrical cap to the Grey and white wire. Omg you saved me so much money. Thank you thank you for showing exactly what to do. I am sooooo happy.
THANKS BROTHER, YOU HAVE MADE MY DAY. HONESTLY WHEN WAS THE LAST TIME YOU HEARD OF A SMALL CHILD CLIMBING UP THE SIDE OF A WASHER AND GOING FOR A DIP WHEN ITS RUNNING.
I was about to order the OEM part for $39, then the knock-off for $9. Yours is an even better solution. Simple, well explained, perfect. Brilliant, thanks! Read several comments. Do you ever get tired of the red, white, and blue wire questions? 😉
Thanks Jeff! Yes, I sure do get tired of them. Thank you for reading through the comments, often there is a wealth of information and questions that have already been asked, that have been answered. I have many other videos of these types of machines, including several repair videos. In case you ever need them, you'll know where to look first!
Love the video. Took me 20 years to realize that you shouldn't twist the wires individually if you are using a wire nut. The bare loose strands grip much better and mesh better, creating a better electrical joint. Thank you!
Thanks man. After reading reviews on replacement switches, I decided to just save myself the time and do this. Wishing I never actually removed the old switch at this point! Good video.
@@jaykay18 my parents have this same washing machine. I just replaced the lid latch switch and the lid will still open mid cycle. What would be your next step?
Thanks for the video man. I JUST replaced the timer on our washer about a month ago, and then it was on again, off again working. We'd open the lid and shut it again, and it would work for a couple minutes and then cut back out. It was driving my wife and I nuts, and we didn't really WANT to go buy a new washer and dryer after JUST spending $160 for the timer. Figured it was the switch, saw this video, and voila! Works like a charm. Thank you!
My washer went down yesterday...timing is bad as we are still on lockdown in Michigan. I followed the steps with minimal tools and corrected. I am the least handy dude around by the way. Thank you very much
Thank you 😊...I was going nuts trying to figure out what is going on. I'm glad that you posted this because IT'S SAVING MONEY 💰 FOR A 10 MINUTE FIX...THANKS AGAIN.
Thank you! Just did this to the machine I picked up for my shop. You explained it very well, took me longer to get the panel open than to snip and wrap up the wires!
Thanks for posting this, I was just getting ready throw in the towel and go get another washer. You were clear on the instructions and right to the point.
I have a different machine/make but the concept should be the same with mine. The pins on my lid switch connector are as follows. Which pins should be shorted to achieve a 'switch defeat'? 1 DC Motor #1 (red) 2. DC Motor #2 (black) 3. Lock switch 4. Gnd. 5. Lid Reed Switch 6. Unlock
@@MarkSmith-hp6os Those are even easier to fix, just put on a hand truck and wheel to the curb. No, not a joke. READ THE VIDEO DESCRIPTION ON EVERY VIDEO YOU WATCH.
@@MarkSmith-hp6os If you did read it, you would not have asked the question. Your assumption is completely incorrect. Your machine has a weenie little DC motor, as opposed to an AC motor like what drives this machine, so it doesn't work very well. And that's not just due to the motor, it uses that weakling motor to drive the whole machine. The AC motor machine uses a transmission, to achieve better performance, just like a car.
All the way from Jamaica just wanna say thanks for your video it left me to fix my washer I did exactly the same thing you did an it's works like new thanks a lot for your help
Don't ever do that Todd, you'll never get another washer that works as good as this one! You can find a replacement lid switch online pretty cheap if you were interested in replacing it.
jaykay18 I need help! I forced the lid open and now it makes a clicking sound but the washer does't work. my washer is a Whirlpool model wtw5000dw2. I think I broke the lid switch, the washer is about 2 years old. is probably the same model as the one you'r working on in the video. if I do the same thing you did do you think it will work? please I need an answer.
You can start by helping yourself first. You say your washer is 2 years old. There's this thing called a VIDEO DESCRIPTION. In that, I always put the date of recording in. If you would even give half a damn and TRY first, you'd realize this won't help you.
My lid switch connector melted. I tried to bypass just as you showed in the video, but it did not do anything. I checked the wires for connectivity, and there is none. Do you have any suggestions?
Can you help me, my washing machine has different colored cables: green, gray and black. The gray and black do pass current and the green does not. I can do what you show in your video but with the gray and black cable? Thank you, I will appreciate your help.
In AC (Alternating Current) circuits, such as the washing machine in this video, green is almost always ground. So that stays left alone. If there are ONLY 2 other wires, you should be able to do the same. You can check the wiring diagram (should be tucked in the underside of the controls panel) to be sure.
Excellent! My grandmother's whirlpool machine that I acquired lives on. I don't need to go and find a replacement machine or spend anything on my current one!
You SHOULD replace the lid switch, it's cheap. This job was done because the owner asked for it to be, not because the switch failed. On my own personal machines, I put a switch in so I could have the lid switch operate properly, or have it always disabled.
Great Video and highly appreciated However, question to be raised my Waching machine when I lift the Lid its stopped but when release the Lid again the Machine does not started and you can't hear any clicking, please advise, B.Regards
With a model number of the machine, I can research it a little further. But these lid switches have been known to go bad in such a way as you explained. Replacing or disabling it may solve the problem.
My wires are brown, white and black, also a whirlpool top loader machine... I connected the brown and black together... that makes the machine be able to rinse and spin... but I have to revert them to normal if I want the machine to go through a wash cycle... when the wash cycle goes to the rinse and spin part I have to jump the wires again (brown and black) /// Is there a way to just not have to be moving wires around? The part arrives 3 weeks from now, and I have no kids, it is really annoying having to do every time I want to complete the wash cycle.
Why don't you "just wanderer" over to the video description first. I don't write those video descriptions for my health, you should read them for yours.
Would have been more helpful to mention the modle you are working on. My machine did not have any green wire at all. Only red, white blue and a light yellowish
Thank you Chris! I'm only sorry that you can't use this trick on your washer. But I would suggest, if it's too costly to fix, that you find a good used appliance shop and buy an older washer. Chances are very good you will have it for 30 years or more without a problem. And if you find a machine like the one I showed in this video, I have several repair videos on it for common problems, that are super-inexpensive to fix.
Hey Jay, great video! My washer stopped draining/spinning. Inspected the switch and it was for sure bad. The connector and switch had melted together. Is this a common problem? What would cause them to melt together like that?
I have seen that happen before. Generally, a bad connection, corroded metal contacts, or moisture can cause that. A bad connection causes heat, heat causes plastic to melt.
Thank you for this video; I tried shorting the black and white leaving the green intact but it still doesn't work. It is a whirlpool washer and dryer combo; do you have any recommendations? Many thanks. *I saw your additional humiliation clause; I have traced the latch assembly wires from the panels onwards; at this point I just want to drain the tub and get a new machine. Is there any other way to drain the washer than the 'hose' in the bottom? Many thanks.
Washer will drain but won't spin. Is that indicative of a faulty lid switch? Oddly, it spun fine prior to repairing the pressure hose attached to water level setting (was overflowing). Reconnect hose, no spin; unhook hose, overflows but spins fine. What's the interrelation between the two? Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
I need to first know what kind of washer this is. A lot of people think they have a washer similar to what I showed in this video, but theirs is a newer machine, which is a totally different ball of wax. If you can give me the model number of the machine I can help you further.
@@jaykay18 It's a Whirlpool, older model; numbers 3357978 stamped on back. Not sure if that's the model # or not. I since disconnected/bypassed lid switch and same issue occurs. When in spin mode I can spin drum by hand and it engages kind of randomly (sometimes easier than others); clutch maybe??. And thx for the prompt response.
@@indoctrinationamericasgrea3543 Ha, that's the part number for the back cabinet panel itself! All right, if this is a direct-drive unit like this, and does NOT have a lid lock, Play button, LEDs or other indicator lights on the panel, the first thing to check is agitation. If the unit WILL agitate, then the motor coupler is OK. If not, then the motor coupler needs to be replaced. If the motor coupler is OK, note that the washers have a neutral drain. So after agitating, they will stop, start up again and run the motor, but the only thing that will happen is it will drain just sitting there. That goes for about 2 minutes. After that, it will shut off for a moment, start back up, and should spin. If it's not spinning, then check the clutch. You'll need to remove the cabinet and look on top of the transmission while it's put into spin. The clutch should spin. If it doesn't, the transmission is bad. If it does, the drive block, or brake and drive tube are bad.
@@jaykay18 Thanks again. Won't have time today to pull it back apart, but Ill let you know what happens tomorrow. However, before I do, some say it won't agitate if clutch is bad (and it does); but it spins and pumps fine once engaged (which a faulty transmission won't do (??)); unless I'm mistaken; which is very possible. Consequently leaving me a bit confused... . Thanks again!
Hey man. I have a Whirlpool LSR8010PQ0 and the middle contact of the switch melted. I tried your method and the washer won't run, after about 60 seconds of waiting for it to do anything I smelled something melting so I unplugged the washer. The two wires felt warm to the touch but not hot enough to melt.
Do you know why the lid switch is overload and heating, the tree wires plug can't be removed? I have cut and bypass the lid swich, this trouble can be fix with the lid switch replace?
Probably a bad connection in the connector to the switch. Sometimes water can get in there and cause corrosion, which will make a bad connection. Bad connections can overheat. You can try replacing the switch, but if it happens again, you'll need to replace the switch and the connector on the wire.
@jaykay18 you RoCk my friend. I can't thank you enough for this. This happens to be my second repair ever on a washer and I'm soooo stoked to do it with your instructions! Mahalo nui loa!
Will this work on the whirlpool cabrio washer lid lock? Is this what you was doing? I was under the impression you cannot bypass the lid locks. My lid lock went out so my washer wont even start. Parts are cheap it's just cant wash anything until they arrive and it takes weeks to get anything in bfe Arkansas
Is there a reason you can't read the description or the other comments? Nobody is going to come and fix your washer for you, just like I'm not spoon feeding the answer.
The one wire in the connector to my lid switch burned the plastic on the connector and lid switch. It oddly still works but I was hoping to replace the wires and lid switch but I'm having trouble finding replacements, mainly for the wires. Is this a safe alternative to replacing them?
Replacement parts for these machines are cheap and plentiful. Finding the actual wire connector, that's a different story. What is depicted in this video is at your own risk.
I opened the panel and found this is already done. My washer won’t spin during a cycle but will when I turn the dial to spin and start it. Any suggestions?
I first need to make sure that the machine you have does NOT have a lid lock. If it does, you're out of luck. If it doesn't, that's an odd problem. I would first listen to the timer. It's a motor-driven electromechanical timer and has a small and quiet clock motor inside. You may have to stick your ear on it, but you should heard it run. If it doesn't, I have seen them stall mid-cycle, in which case you'd need a new timer. Without a model number of the machine, that's the best I can offer.
Have a GE washer that refused to spin/drain and is working after watching this video, thanks! Question, ended up clipping all three by mistake and the green (assuming it's the ground) is hanging freely. Should this wire be grounded somehow? Not sure what to do.
Generally, green is ground. You can possibly reconnect it from where you clipped it off. If you can't because it was clipped too close, lesson learned for next time--always leave a little slack. Quite honestly, since the machine is otherwise working, it should be fine. The top has metal-to-metal contact somewhere else so it will remain grounded.
This video does not depict, nor talk about a lid lock. If you have a machine with a lid lock, the best thing to do is to take it out to the curb since the washing action is extremely poor (they changed to a belt-driven design with an indexing tub, which is just about useless). There is absolutely no workaround or trick that you can do to get around this problem you have. REAL washing machines don't have this malarkey. The only way you can fix yours is to buy all the parts it requires and replace them, only to waste your money when the next thing breaks.
I have a whirlpool ultimate care ii washer model number LSQ9030PQ1.. I did some research and it says to try the lid switch. ( fills up with water, then stops) I bought the new part put it in, still nothing. Can I cut the wires like you did on my machine for it to bypass the lid switch and wash my clothes?
It's pretty rare that a new switch is defective, but not unheard of. Unplug the connector, and make yourself a jumper wire and jump the pins before you go cutting any wires. Best to use a piece of wire like from a piece of Romex, 14 gauge. If you don't have that handy, for a _quick_ test, and I mean *quick*, you can unbend a paper clip. Chances are very good that if it works that paper clip will get VERY hot so be careful. If it doesn't work still, you could be looking at a bad timer. Try a different cycle, like delicates. You also didn't mention if it drains or if the motor makes any noise at all, I'm assuming it doesn't. If all of that's good, then likely you're looking at a bad motor. Sometimes the capacitor on them goes bad, but you'd hear a hum or something, which again, you didn't mention so I'm assuming not.
I seen this video on the washer lid lock bypass and I’m trying to do it myself on a Whirlpool mode, i ran into an issue though, the three wires you have are green white and black and the three that I have are dark blue white and red I’m not sure which ones to put together and cap off. I’m assuming dark blue and red are pos and neg and white is ground or neutral ?
So the gray and the white fused together. When the machine finish the whole washing cycle and I lift the door will it shut off the red light (the one that remains on at the end indicating that it's done)?
im so glad your here ! so i hsve an 2005 whirlpool cabrio platnum the fella down the road said i cabt disconnect my lid lock !! i accidently broke off the tab to lock it ...im hoping to disconnect please advise ..
Great and very helpful video. I do have a question, what if I don’t have the little green piece you put on the end of the wires? Is it something else you can use?
You can solder the wires and use heat-shrink tubing, but that requires skill. Do not substitute, the full current of the machine is passing through these wires. If they short out you're going to have a very big problem. You need wire nuts. Home improvement stores sell them.
This video is very helpful. I think it’s pointing me in the right direction. My model is a whirlpool WTW4800BQ0. my lid lock has four wires coming from the control board. Red white blue and yellow. Any idea how I could bypass this lid lock on my model?
Yes, there are two things you can do: 1. Throw out the machine. OR 2. Buy the parts that you need to fix it. That's it. There's no fooling a machine like that with a lid lock, if it's broken, there's no way to bypass it. A machine like I showed has no computers in it, it's strict point-to-point wiring like wall outlets in your house.
Would this work on a MVWC300BW0 ? My Maytag washer turns on, fills up at start but once it’s ready to spin and detect load size, the lid lock light blinks and makes a clicking sound over and over like if it is trying to lock but won’t! What could be the problem ?
Without my even having to look that up, no. Lid lock machines have to be repaired properly, there's no fooling them. What's the problem? The washer is a piece of junk is what the problem is. No kidding either.
I would like attempt this on mine is it the lid lock and lid switch wires you want to split? We have a WTW5000DW1 and do you cut the wires in the back or up under the lid?
Hi Jay. I took apart my washer and instead of grey white and green I have blue white and red. I would appreciate if you helped me out to figure out which two to splice. Thanx
There is more to a video than just the video. There's the description. OFTENTIMES, THE DESCRIPTION WILL CONTAIN VITAL INFORMATION THAT WAS NOT INCLUDED IN THE VIDEO. *ALWAYS* READ THE VIDEO DESCRIPTION!!!!!!!!!!!
@@jaykay18 I cut the blue and white wires, left the red wire as is,washer is workin perfectly once again. I won't thank you for your reply, I will thank you very much for your video. Have a great one, Jay.
Some people like that. My dad called me up one day on the phone and as he's talking to me, I could hear the low battery alarm in the background. I told him to change the battery, but no, he left it beeping, because I heard it the next time I spoke with him. He always kept spare batteries around, but maybe, just maybe, he was out of 9 volt batteries. I needed to head out there to see him, and figured I'd bring a 9 volt battery along and give it to him, since he's generally a tightwad. I gave him the 9 volt battery. Couple weeks later, I spoke to him on the phone. Still going off. I guess he just HAD to squeeze the last ounces of juice out of that battery before he was going to change it. For me, personally, it would drive me insane. I actually don't have that problem of a low battery since all of my smoke detectors are hard-wired to my alarm panel. Now if the alarm panel battery goes dead, that's a different story. In fact, now that I mention it, it did, a couple months ago. 5 alarm keypads started screaming all over the house. There is no way to live with that since the sound is constant. Silly me, I had an extra 8 Ah on hand so I could replace it right away. I replaced it immediately. Old battery saved for other nefarious purposes...
If your machine has a lid LOCK that actually locks the lid shut, you're out of luck, there's no defeating it. You have to buy the expensive parts and replace them.
@@jaykay18 Oh GREAT! Aren’t I lucky to buy a useless washing machine? I honestly don’t think it’s a “Safety Issue” as much as Corporate Greed… a way for Whirlpool, Maytag Et.al. to make sure we replace units frequently. This NEW (used 5 times) washer constantly makes loads so uneven, it’s going to kill the whole motor assembly. This washer always redistributes even SMALL loads, so the machine DANCES ALL OVER THE FLOOR no matter how small or how many times I stop it to make the load even! I’m disgusted w all of them. But thanks a lot; at least I know. Now I’m just gonna wash my clothes the Old Fashioned way….WITH AN OLD WOODEN WASHBOARD.
@@denirn8725 I fully agree with you on that, they're junk. Last good washer Whirlpool made rolled off the line in 2009. So, the trick is to buy a USED machine, 2009 or older, that doesn't have the lid lock. Those are called DIRECT DRIVE machines. There's no belt, no dinky motor, no sub-par wash action. It's an old-school washer that has one job to do and does it better than anything else out there. No lock, it won't really go off balance because it has an actual suspension system. It has a tub brake to prevent he tub from turning while it agitates, because that negates the effect of the agitation. It's a direct-drive machine with no belt and it has an actual transmission to do the hard work. Just like the kind we used to have, or your parents or grandparents may have had. They are out there. If you're worried about the machine breaking down, don't. They're very easy to service, I have several repair videos on different things that can go bad. And of course there are other UA-cam channels to show you how to fix stuff. Parts are inexpensive and plentiful. Those machines run for a good 20 years without much in the way of any trouble. I have 2 machines, and I will never get rid of them or replace them with any other kind of washer. They were some of the best ever, ever made.
@@jaykay18 You guys are wonderful! You know so much about machines like washers etc. & can fix almost anything. Reminds me of Mike Rowe’s program, telling young kids, they DON’T NEED A $300K University Education to succeed & be fulfilled. They spend 4 years on Useless Knowledge they’ll never use & NEVER get the job of their “Dreams”. I thank God & personally thank every genius tradesman I can every time I meet one. They’re the amazing people who keep our good lives GOOD in this country. Oh & you’re right! I did think about an old refurbished washer. In my vacation house I have a 27 y/o Kenmore that’s perfect. My Granny bought it right before she died. And I bought the house without everything in it. That old Kenmore has never failed. I keep all parts I can get to clean & lubricated. AND the only lock on it, is on the final spin cycle. It stops spinning BUT you still can always open the lid. It’s gonna be a nice “USED” IN GOOD SHAPE WASHER when this piece of junk dies…. Probably next year when it’s 2 years old. 😆 THANKS AGAIN it’s refreshing to know I’m not just the only complainer about this technology.
@@denirn8725 You are too kind! For me, I went to college, got my useless knowledge, did all that. My actual knowledge was hands-on. I was just naturally curious. I wasn't afraid to take things apart to see how they worked. I'm a computer technician by trade, as such my mechanical skills are lagging behind but I can get the job done. Mike Rowe is absolutely right. If you're willing to put your blood, sweat, and tears into stuff, it can get done. Nowadays with the advent of the Internet and UA-cam, we have instructionals and instructional videos. That makes a lot of jobs very simple these days, if only people can follow directions (they usually can't). Tradesmen are great people, until it comes time for the bill. I once had a plumber in to change some gaskets and a valve on my boiler, he quoted me $625. I bought the parts myself and saved $600. So they usually charge too much. There are, however, some jobs that are just out of my league, and I have to pay what they ask. Finding an honest tradesman who would charge a reasonable price is one the hardest things to do. Your granny's washer is the type just like this one in this video. And yes, the content of this video applies, you can disable that lid switch so it will stay running even with the lid open, if you want it to. On my own machines, I added that option, and put in a switch so I can enable the lid switch function again if I wanted. I also like a warm rinse, so once again, I added that option via a switch. Regarding your junker, what you can do, though may be in the way/inconvenient, is to remove the latch from the lid of the washer, the top part. Then you stick that down into where it normally would mate up and leave it there. Might even duct tape it in place and call it good. All of the other problems will still be there, but there won't be any waiting for the machine to stop, provided you don't mind going for a spin yourself. Any other questions, I'm always here.
I am looking to buy a new washer....and was wondering if I could do this on the following washing machine: The GE GTW465ASNWW????? Is there a way to tell which machine you can do this to? Thanks so much Jay!!!!!!
That washer is garbage. As is every other washer on the market today. The only exception is Speed Queen, the "classic" model that's new for 2019. The general rule of thumb for doing this mod is that if the washer has a lid lock of any kind, it's not going to work. Otherwise, I have no way of knowing which washer this will work on and which one it won't. It depends on what they're actually doing with the lid switch. Sometimes there are sensors and other BS that prevents further modification.
Thanks A lot! I tried the trick and it worked great.... until for some reason whatever burned out the Lid switch caused the wires to heat up and almost melt... Everyone know why or have any suggestions?
The full motor current goes through those wires. If you have a bad connection anywhere, that's a source of resistance and therefore heat. If your motor has a bad capacitor, it can pull excessive current and cause overheated wires. It's time to find the root cause of the problem instead of putting bandaids on it.
@@jaykay18 Thanks a lot. I'm currently doing missionary work in a 3rd world country so parts are not easy to get and a tech that can fix this is even harder to find. But I thought there was a short somewhere because when I lifted the control panel I heard the machine stop and start. Thanks again for your help! I'll see what I can do.
Not to be a hater or anyting but you can do this with other washers with different color wires. For instance mine has two White two yellow one black one blue. I believe if I hook up everything but the white wires together it will be good to go I think. The washer does not have a play or pause button or a lid lock it's an old Maytag.. What do you think brother you think I'm good? I'm about to skin this smoke wagon.. there's no ground wire on mine. Ground wire is clearly separate.
Sure, this can be done with an old Maytag like that. First thing you want to do is meter EVERYTHING. Once you do that, you should be able to determine which wires are which and what they do. Better yet just replace the switch.
@@jaykay18 hey can I show you something real quick I seen a video of this Mexican guy floating the wires and it's identical to my washers the wires are in the exact same place. I'll send you the link so you can just look at it.. I don't want to Frye nothing. I work on used appliances and sell them I have for about 2 years I'm still learning but I'm all right at it. basically I'm just trying to see if cutting these wires and splicing them together would be the same as floating it like this Mexican guy is. I would ask him very easily but his comments are turned off on every single one of his videos. I don't blame him either people are ridiculous
@@jaykay18 Man I would replace the switch but I would have to order it nothing is open right now because of the "virus". I don't really order anyting I stay away from Banks and online.. However if I continue to do what I'm doing I might as well.. b But when you do that you have to rely on other people like the mailman and the person packing it and the person taking the order lol.
Also I should mention the actual switch it works and everything it's just the part where the lid opens. That little piece is worn off and it's not actually hitting the switch to tell the machine that the washer is closed or open. You know what I'm saying you can put a screwdriver in the hole and run the washer fine. In the spot where the little piece is supposed to push it back when you close the washer..
I couldn't tell what Washer exactly this was, but would this work on a Whirlpool WTW5550X Washer? The lid lock mechanism in my washer is busted internally. Would this able me to actually do laundry?
Sorry, you're S.O.L. Lid lock washers have sensors that need to work to satisfy the computer. Without all of that safety equipment in place, it's not going to wash. You have to replace the broken parts, then you should be all right.
Sorry, that's an HE junk machine. Too many sensors on that thing to make sure it doesn't take any more than 12 ounces of water, there's no way twisting a couple wires together could fool it. And based on what I've searched with that model number, it's only a few years old, so it shouldn't have broken in the first place.
Hello Jay, I have a Whirlpool Energy Saver wtw4900bw1. Do you think this fix would work. Seems easy enough to just bypass a lid lock. Thanks in advance for the reply!
That's a Playskool washer with a lid lock and a belt drive. Everything's computer controlled, and without that lid lock and switch working properly, the washer wants to be brought to the curb so it can be recycled into more Playskool junk, that will break in short order. You need to fix the actual problem, and that means parts, maybe even sensors or circuit boards.
Hey jaykay. Will this work on a whirlpool WTW5000DW1? mine has the same console as the one in the video, but no agitator. Thanks and great video! Darn. I just saw my model number on your junk list. Shoot. I was trying to save some cash these days.
OK, you figured it out. Junk the washer, buy one of these old school ones used, with the agitator, and never worry about laundry again. If it has a button on it to start the wash, that's the bad ones. The old school mechanical timer, the kind mom or grandma used to have.
Hi great video, my question is that my machine lid lock has 4 wires, red, blue, yellow and white. What 2 wires I connect together and what do I need to do with the other two wires? If you could help, it’ll be greatly appreciated! Thanks
My help is for you to read the description. ALWAYS READ THE DESCRIPTION, ON EVERY VIDEO YOU WATCH, IT HELPS PREVENT STUPID QUESTIONS THAT HAVE ALREADY BEEN ANSWERED.
@jaykay18 looks like they did the same wires and just used electrical tape. Got loose and started arcing maybe? Redid the connection and will see what happens🤞
@@brettc1981 Yeah electrical tape isn't going to cut it. You're putting the full current of the motor through those wires, it needs a solid connection. At the very least, wire nuts, better would be solder and heat shrink.
No problem at all! You're better fixing the machine you have anyway since washers today are garbage; you'll never get things so clean again. Fix whatever goes wrong and you'll be much better off anyway, laundry-wise and financially!
I want to try this for my washer but I don’t have wire strippers or the little cover for the wires . Would I just be able to use electrical tape to cover the exposed wires ?
For a test, you're better off unplugging the connector and probing that with a short piece of 14 gauge wire. If you don't have any wire, you can use 2 paper clips together in tandem, bent into shape--FOR NO MORE THAN A SECOND, they cannot carry the current needed and will get hot! Don't even THINK about touching the exposed stuff, and keep it away from the machine, in other words, hold the wire behind the connector in the air. Get some wire nuts, you can get them at a hardware store for a couple bucks. No strippers, a pocket knife can work in a pinch but it'll be a sloppy job. Strippers are a couple of bucks as well.
Whirlpool lidlock 10682535, snipped outside wires (blue & red) and wire nutted together. Washer is still giving the locked LED status / clicking sound. What else could my problem be
Hey...i tried to bypass my switch.. it didn't work. My machine won't come on. You can hear the lid arm click to trigger the sensor, but the trigger doesn't start the cycle. Then it won't fill nor start the agitation cycle. But it will spin and drain. Whats wrong with my poor crazy machine?
@@jaykay18 I've unhooked both water hoses and checked water to make sure the pipes didn't freeze and burst or something and water indeed Comes from the wall, just won't pump into the machine to fill it. The machine is not telling itself to fill&agitate..
@@jaykay18 i also unhooked the water hose and manually filled the tub with water to see if it would agitate once the "filled" water level was reached, and it did not begin agitation cycle. But if i manually adjust the dial to the spin portion it will spin and drain.
@@FixitWithFoxy Thanks for the additional information. But without the model number, I don't know exactly what machine you have. They made many of the same style over the years but each one has little nuances that makes it different from others. If you have the model number, I will be happy to give you my insight.
That's a Playskool washer with a lid lock and a belt drive. Everything's computer controlled, and without that lid lock and switch working properly, the washer wants to be brought to the curb so it can be recycled into more Playskool junk, that will break in short order. You need to fix the actual problem, and that means parts, maybe even sensors or circuit boards.
Thanks for letting me at least finish the load without bailing water. This will buy us some time on these old appliances. Now the wife gets to pick out a new washer and dryer. :-)
Make that smiley face a frown face--there are NO washing machines on the market, at any price, that can do as good of a job as what you have. Fix what you have at any price, believe me, you'll end up being really sorry if you replace it. Not to mention, it won't last anywhere near as long as this machine. I have two of these "direct drive" Whirlpool machines, one is 11 years old and the other is 26 years old. I've replaced ONE part on the older one, a $6 part called the agitator dogs, and I have a video on how to change that. Also I have replaced the timer on this machine in this video, and a motor coupler on another one. They're easy to work on, parts are cheap and plentiful. Trust me. If you don't want to and pick out a new set, tell me how bad it is.
Thank you sir. Much appreciated. The part was 10 bucks online. 28 at a local store. To me it's just 1 more thing to break (as it did). I'm good with bypassing it. The repair cost me nothing. Back in business now. thanks.
Don't remember the model. But if you notice, this machine does NOT have a lid lock, yours is a different animal altogether and doesn't even wash properly, so you're best just getting rid of it.
Something non-HE. Yes, an old-school, used washer, like one your mother or grandmother used to have. It'll run for years and years and years, and your clothes will be cleaner than you ever thought was possible.
The "screw thingy" is called a wire nut. You use the wire nut size appropriate to the gauge wire you're dealing with. Or, in "screw thingy" terms, whichever one fits.
A year of frustration is over. Took longer to find my wire stripper than to do the job. Plugged it back in and hot damn it fired back up. You are my hero today. Thanks.
Great to hear! Happy washing!
I know this is from 2 years ago, but you just saved me from having to buy a whole new washer! I bought and installed 2 new lid switches thinking it was faulty parts.. but no it was the darn connector and by bypassing it, it works again! We have had this washer in the family since my parents bought it new over 20 years ago!
Excellent! Keep that machine running at ANY cost--you cannot buy another washer out there that can do anywhere near as good of a job!
What is the washer model, please? We want to see if we can find one. We have a large family and need something reliable and easy to fix
Where is the connector you are referring to? Please give me a step by step i can try- if you have the time! Tia!
@@FixitWithFoxy this was 3 years ago... I no longer have that washer. But it's under the front panel... There should be 2 clipped in trim pieces on the front side. You take those off and there's screws underneath those.. there's a couple screws on the back if I remember correctly, but if I were you def look up other videos on how to open the control module then come back to this video
Bravo! Saved me a remodel of my laundry room to replace the unit just like the one in the video. (The space BARELY fits the current 15 year old units and while I could afford a brand new set, they are all wider and I would have to take out a wall to fit them in). Hopefully this fix buys me a few more years! THANK YOU!
You're welcome! It'll buy you way more than a few years, that machine can last forever and it's simple to fix if something goes wrong, and parts are inexpensive. I have many other repair videos on these types of washers, so in the rare event you do have a problem, you know who to go to!
This video saved me, we where doing laundry tonight before a big trip and the washer just stopped, I did this and now we will be able to have all our laundry done in time for the trip. Thank you
Glad I could help!
Shout out to you. Got this same washer had it for 10 years now and because of you it will last longer
Thank you
You're very welcome. It will last for way longer than 10 more years. Never get rid of it, fix it at any expense, you will never be able to buy another one because they stopped making them. I have other repair videos, and if you don't find one of mine, there are many others out there. Parts are cheap and plentiful, yet the machines rarely break.
Worked like a charm for me! I wasn't even sure if the lid switch was the problem because I don't have a ohm-meter or whatever. Too fancy. But the load of laundry stopped mid-cycle, and it would add more water but wouldn't spin. I read that the lid switch is a common culprit so I will get the part online. I'm a mom to a 5 month old and I needed to be able to do laundry NOW!
Glad I was able to help out! Multimeters aren't expensive, Harbor Freight often has coupons giving them away free with purchase--go in, buy a pack of batteries you can always use, and get a free meter. More than plenty enough for simple testing like this.
Omg I fixed my machine.
I did exactly what you showed.
I previously did a different way and it caught fire and melted part of the black adapter. With electrical tape.
I used an electrical cap to the Grey and white wire.
Omg you saved me so much money.
Thank you thank you for showing exactly what to do.
I am sooooo happy.
Those wires are carrying the full current of the motor, so they have to be good, solid connections.
THANKS BROTHER, YOU HAVE MADE MY DAY. HONESTLY WHEN WAS THE LAST TIME YOU HEARD OF A SMALL CHILD CLIMBING UP THE SIDE OF A WASHER AND GOING FOR A DIP WHEN ITS RUNNING.
Thanks. great question. Though I am surprised that in this day and age, we don't hear of it more, because parents don't watch their kids anymore.
My washer was filling but not agitating and I was so frustrated, but this totally worked! Thank you so much. Took 3 minutes.
Great to hear!
I was about to order the OEM part for $39, then the knock-off for $9. Yours is an even better solution. Simple, well explained, perfect. Brilliant, thanks! Read several comments. Do you ever get tired of the red, white, and blue wire questions? 😉
Thanks Jeff! Yes, I sure do get tired of them. Thank you for reading through the comments, often there is a wealth of information and questions that have already been asked, that have been answered.
I have many other videos of these types of machines, including several repair videos. In case you ever need them, you'll know where to look first!
Where'd you see the OEM part for $39?
@@kickasbutterfly Parts direct
Love the video. Took me 20 years to realize that you shouldn't twist the wires individually if you are using a wire nut. The bare loose strands grip much better and mesh better, creating a better electrical joint. Thank you!
Thanks. I've had mixed results both ways, and have found that for me, twisting them usually works better.
Thank you! After a week of trying to figure out my machine, this took just a couple minutes and it works!!
No problem Jaye!
@@jaykay18 My wires are red, white and blue? Suggestions?
@@leatherneck7476 Read the description. LIKE YOU SHOULD DO FOR EVERY VIDEO.
Thanks man. After reading reviews on replacement switches, I decided to just save myself the time and do this. Wishing I never actually removed the old switch at this point! Good video.
Thanks Kevin!
@@jaykay18 my parents have this same washing machine. I just replaced the lid latch switch and the lid will still open mid cycle. What would be your next step?
Model #110.29522800
Kenmore
Thanks for the video man. I JUST replaced the timer on our washer about a month ago, and then it was on again, off again working. We'd open the lid and shut it again, and it would work for a couple minutes and then cut back out. It was driving my wife and I nuts, and we didn't really WANT to go buy a new washer and dryer after JUST spending $160 for the timer. Figured it was the switch, saw this video, and voila! Works like a charm. Thank you!
Great to hear Bruce!
I wanted to thank you about this fix. Worked like a charm on my Kitchenaid. The washer was stopping mid-cycle. Now its back running again. Happy 2020!
Great to hear, thanks for watching! Happy New Year!
My washer went down yesterday...timing is bad as we are still on lockdown in Michigan. I followed the steps with minimal tools and corrected. I am the least handy dude around by the way. Thank you very much
You're very welcome!
Thank you 😊...I was going nuts trying to figure out what is going on. I'm glad that you posted this because IT'S SAVING MONEY 💰 FOR A 10 MINUTE FIX...THANKS AGAIN.
You're welcome.
Thank you! Just did this to the machine I picked up for my shop. You explained it very well, took me longer to get the panel open than to snip and wrap up the wires!
Thanks Karen!
3 minutes just saved me 300 dollars. You are very much appreciated!
Thank you!
Just wanted to say thanks! I made a jumper to try on the connector first before I made the cut and it was the culprit!
Thanks again!!!!
You're welcome!
Thanks for posting this, I was just getting ready throw in the towel and go get another washer. You were clear on the instructions and right to the point.
Thanks. Point is, you CAN'T get another washer, at least not one that works like this. Doing that would have been the worst decision you've made.
I have a different machine/make but the concept should be the same with mine. The pins on my lid switch connector are as follows. Which pins should be shorted to achieve a 'switch defeat'?
1 DC Motor #1 (red)
2. DC Motor #2 (black)
3. Lock switch
4. Gnd.
5. Lid Reed Switch
6. Unlock
@@MarkSmith-hp6os Those are even easier to fix, just put on a hand truck and wheel to the curb. No, not a joke. READ THE VIDEO DESCRIPTION ON EVERY VIDEO YOU WATCH.
@@jaykay18 I read it. I assume the principle is the same with every switch. My machine works very well. No need to wheel it to the curb. :)
@@MarkSmith-hp6os If you did read it, you would not have asked the question. Your assumption is completely incorrect. Your machine has a weenie little DC motor, as opposed to an AC motor like what drives this machine, so it doesn't work very well. And that's not just due to the motor, it uses that weakling motor to drive the whole machine. The AC motor machine uses a transmission, to achieve better performance, just like a car.
All the way from Jamaica just wanna say thanks for your video it left me to fix my washer I did exactly the same thing you did an it's works like new thanks a lot for your help
Glad I could help
You are THE MAN !!!! Fixed washer in 5 minutes.
Great to hear Marlon!
Thank you so much! My washer stopped mid cycle. Did this bypass, it worked. I was getting ready to go out and buy a new one.
Don't ever do that Todd, you'll never get another washer that works as good as this one! You can find a replacement lid switch online pretty cheap if you were interested in replacing it.
P
This suggestion works, saved me the hassle/expense of buying a new washer
Great to hear!
jaykay18 I need help! I forced the lid open and now it makes a clicking sound but the washer does't work. my washer is a Whirlpool model wtw5000dw2. I think I broke the lid switch, the washer is about 2 years old. is probably the same model as the one you'r working on in the video. if I do the same thing you did do you think it will work? please I need an answer.
You can start by helping yourself first. You say your washer is 2 years old. There's this thing called a VIDEO DESCRIPTION. In that, I always put the date of recording in. If you would even give half a damn and TRY first, you'd realize this won't help you.
My lid switch connector melted. I tried to bypass just as you showed in the video, but it did not do anything. I checked the wires for connectivity, and there is none. Do you have any suggestions?
Please give me the model number for your machine so I can look up the schematic and help you further.
Can you help me, my washing machine has different colored cables: green, gray and black. The gray and black do pass current and the green does not. I can do what you show in your video but with the gray and black cable? Thank you, I will appreciate your help.
In AC (Alternating Current) circuits, such as the washing machine in this video, green is almost always ground. So that stays left alone. If there are ONLY 2 other wires, you should be able to do the same. You can check the wiring diagram (should be tucked in the underside of the controls panel) to be sure.
@@jaykay18thank you
Excellent! My grandmother's whirlpool machine that I acquired lives on. I don't need to go and find a replacement machine or spend anything on my current one!
You SHOULD replace the lid switch, it's cheap. This job was done because the owner asked for it to be, not because the switch failed. On my own personal machines, I put a switch in so I could have the lid switch operate properly, or have it always disabled.
Thanks for the info because slamming the lid was working but stopped now I don’t have to worry about that situation 💙
You're welcome.
Great Video and highly appreciated However, question to be raised my Waching machine when I lift the Lid its stopped but when release the Lid again the Machine does not started and you can't hear any clicking, please advise, B.Regards
With a model number of the machine, I can research it a little further. But these lid switches have been known to go bad in such a way as you explained. Replacing or disabling it may solve the problem.
Many people don't know to keep their kids out of washing machines. Sad times. Great video, thanks
Indeed you are correct! You're welcome.
My wires are brown, white and black, also a whirlpool top loader machine... I connected the brown and black together... that makes the machine be able to rinse and spin... but I have to revert them to normal if I want the machine to go through a wash cycle... when the wash cycle goes to the rinse and spin part I have to jump the wires again (brown and black) /// Is there a way to just not have to be moving wires around? The part arrives 3 weeks from now, and I have no kids, it is really annoying having to do every time I want to complete the wash cycle.
Without a model number, it's very hard to tell.
Sir i have a whirlpool top load commercial washing machine, i have 4 wires red,blue, yellow, white, which one should i top to bypass?
Why don't you "just wanderer" over to the video description first. I don't write those video descriptions for my health, you should read them for yours.
I have a newer model and it keeps going from 1 hour 9 min to washing complete with 1 min. Could this be the lid lock?
It could be the fact that you have a newer model. THEY'RE JUNK, ALL OF THEM.
Would have been more helpful to mention the modle you are working on. My machine did not have any green wire at all. Only red, white blue and a light yellowish
It would be even more beneficial if you read the video's description.
Jay you would be proud of me, I read the description and determine that this wouldn't work for my washer :) I can't speak for the other people though.
Thank you Chris! I'm only sorry that you can't use this trick on your washer. But I would suggest, if it's too costly to fix, that you find a good used appliance shop and buy an older washer. Chances are very good you will have it for 30 years or more without a problem. And if you find a machine like the one I showed in this video, I have several repair videos on it for common problems, that are super-inexpensive to fix.
Hey Jay, great video! My washer stopped draining/spinning. Inspected the switch and it was for sure bad. The connector and switch had melted together. Is this a common problem? What would cause them to melt together like that?
I have seen that happen before. Generally, a bad connection, corroded metal contacts, or moisture can cause that. A bad connection causes heat, heat causes plastic to melt.
Thank you for this video; I tried shorting the black and white leaving the green intact but it still doesn't work. It is a whirlpool washer and dryer combo; do you have any recommendations? Many thanks. *I saw your additional humiliation clause; I have traced the latch assembly wires from the panels onwards; at this point I just want to drain the tub and get a new machine. Is there any other way to drain the washer than the 'hose' in the bottom? Many thanks.
You mentioned "latch assembly". If this machine you have will latch the lid closed while washing or spinning, you're completely out of luck.
Washer will drain but won't spin. Is that indicative of a faulty lid switch? Oddly, it spun fine prior to repairing the pressure hose attached to water level setting (was overflowing). Reconnect hose, no spin; unhook hose, overflows but spins fine. What's the interrelation between the two? Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
I need to first know what kind of washer this is. A lot of people think they have a washer similar to what I showed in this video, but theirs is a newer machine, which is a totally different ball of wax. If you can give me the model number of the machine I can help you further.
@@jaykay18 It's a Whirlpool, older model; numbers 3357978 stamped on back. Not sure if that's the model # or not. I since disconnected/bypassed lid switch and same issue occurs. When in spin mode I can spin drum by hand and it engages kind of randomly (sometimes easier than others); clutch maybe??. And thx for the prompt response.
@@indoctrinationamericasgrea3543 Ha, that's the part number for the back cabinet panel itself!
All right, if this is a direct-drive unit like this, and does NOT have a lid lock, Play button, LEDs or other indicator lights on the panel, the first thing to check is agitation. If the unit WILL agitate, then the motor coupler is OK. If not, then the motor coupler needs to be replaced.
If the motor coupler is OK, note that the washers have a neutral drain. So after agitating, they will stop, start up again and run the motor, but the only thing that will happen is it will drain just sitting there. That goes for about 2 minutes. After that, it will shut off for a moment, start back up, and should spin. If it's not spinning, then check the clutch. You'll need to remove the cabinet and look on top of the transmission while it's put into spin. The clutch should spin. If it doesn't, the transmission is bad. If it does, the drive block, or brake and drive tube are bad.
@@jaykay18 Thanks again. Won't have time today to pull it back apart, but Ill let you know what happens tomorrow.
However, before I do, some say it won't agitate if clutch is bad (and it does); but it spins and pumps fine once engaged (which a faulty transmission won't do (??)); unless I'm mistaken; which is very possible. Consequently leaving me a bit confused... . Thanks again!
@@indoctrinationamericasgrea3543 Drive block, or brake and drive tube are culprits. Let me know what you find out.
Hey man. I have a Whirlpool LSR8010PQ0 and the middle contact of the switch melted. I tried your method and the washer won't run, after about 60 seconds of waiting for it to do anything I smelled something melting so I unplugged the washer. The two wires felt warm to the touch but not hot enough to melt.
It's possible you have a bad motor, or bad capacitor. That's causing the excess current condition.
Do you know why the lid switch is overload and heating, the tree wires plug can't be removed? I have cut and bypass the lid swich, this trouble can be fix with the lid switch replace?
Probably a bad connection in the connector to the switch. Sometimes water can get in there and cause corrosion, which will make a bad connection. Bad connections can overheat. You can try replacing the switch, but if it happens again, you'll need to replace the switch and the connector on the wire.
@jaykay18 you RoCk my friend. I can't thank you enough for this. This happens to be my second repair ever on a washer and I'm soooo stoked to do it with your instructions! Mahalo nui loa!
You're very welcome!
Will this work on the whirlpool cabrio washer lid lock? Is this what you was doing? I was under the impression you cannot bypass the lid locks. My lid lock went out so my washer wont even start. Parts are cheap it's just cant wash anything until they arrive and it takes weeks to get anything in bfe Arkansas
Is there a reason you can't read the description or the other comments? Nobody is going to come and fix your washer for you, just like I'm not spoon feeding the answer.
Husband said THANK YOU! This was simple and easy!
You're welcome!
The one wire in the connector to my lid switch burned the plastic on the connector and lid switch. It oddly still works but I was hoping to replace the wires and lid switch but I'm having trouble finding replacements, mainly for the wires. Is this a safe alternative to replacing them?
Replacement parts for these machines are cheap and plentiful. Finding the actual wire connector, that's a different story.
What is depicted in this video is at your own risk.
I opened the panel and found this is already done. My washer won’t spin during a cycle but will when I turn the dial to spin and start it. Any suggestions?
I first need to make sure that the machine you have does NOT have a lid lock. If it does, you're out of luck. If it doesn't, that's an odd problem. I would first listen to the timer. It's a motor-driven electromechanical timer and has a small and quiet clock motor inside. You may have to stick your ear on it, but you should heard it run. If it doesn't, I have seen them stall mid-cycle, in which case you'd need a new timer. Without a model number of the machine, that's the best I can offer.
Have a GE washer that refused to spin/drain and is working after watching this video, thanks! Question, ended up clipping all three by mistake and the green (assuming it's the ground) is hanging freely. Should this wire be grounded somehow? Not sure what to do.
Generally, green is ground. You can possibly reconnect it from where you clipped it off. If you can't because it was clipped too close, lesson learned for next time--always leave a little slack. Quite honestly, since the machine is otherwise working, it should be fine. The top has metal-to-metal contact somewhere else so it will remain grounded.
Will this defeat the lid lock error? I'm not able to run now because if a kid lock problem and hope this will fix that problem.
This video does not depict, nor talk about a lid lock. If you have a machine with a lid lock, the best thing to do is to take it out to the curb since the washing action is extremely poor (they changed to a belt-driven design with an indexing tub, which is just about useless). There is absolutely no workaround or trick that you can do to get around this problem you have. REAL washing machines don't have this malarkey. The only way you can fix yours is to buy all the parts it requires and replace them, only to waste your money when the next thing breaks.
I have a whirlpool ultimate care ii washer model number LSQ9030PQ1.. I did some research and it says to try the lid switch. ( fills up with water, then stops) I bought the new part put it in, still nothing. Can I cut the wires like you did on my machine for it to bypass the lid switch and wash my clothes?
It's pretty rare that a new switch is defective, but not unheard of. Unplug the connector, and make yourself a jumper wire and jump the pins before you go cutting any wires. Best to use a piece of wire like from a piece of Romex, 14 gauge. If you don't have that handy, for a _quick_ test, and I mean *quick*, you can unbend a paper clip. Chances are very good that if it works that paper clip will get VERY hot so be careful.
If it doesn't work still, you could be looking at a bad timer. Try a different cycle, like delicates. You also didn't mention if it drains or if the motor makes any noise at all, I'm assuming it doesn't. If all of that's good, then likely you're looking at a bad motor. Sometimes the capacitor on them goes bad, but you'd hear a hum or something, which again, you didn't mention so I'm assuming not.
I seen this video on the washer lid lock bypass and I’m trying to do it myself on a Whirlpool mode, i ran into an issue though, the three wires you have are green white and black and the three that I have are dark blue white and red I’m not sure which ones to put together and cap off. I’m assuming dark blue and red are pos and neg and white is ground or neutral ?
Read the video description.
I'm so please with your video. Thank you for helping me fix my machine, greatly appeciated!
You're welcome.
So the gray and the white fused together. When the machine finish the whole washing cycle and I lift the door will it shut off the red light (the one that remains on at the end indicating that it's done)?
Sounds to me like you have a lid lock on your machine. If so, this won't work.
@@jaykay18 Yes, the door won't open unless I press the stop button on the panel.
im so glad your here ! so i hsve an 2005 whirlpool cabrio platnum the fella down the road said i cabt disconnect my lid lock !! i accidently broke off the tab to lock it ...im hoping to disconnect please advise ..
No way to do it, you have to replace the broken piece.
@@jaykay18 ok i sure do Thank you
@@jamesminton91 No problem, best of luck.
Jay I used this trick today to fix a Kenmore washer that would not complete the cycles. I also replaced the timer as only one cycle worked.
Great to hear!
Great and very helpful video. I do have a question, what if I don’t have the little green piece you put on the end of the wires? Is it something else you can use?
You can solder the wires and use heat-shrink tubing, but that requires skill. Do not substitute, the full current of the machine is passing through these wires. If they short out you're going to have a very big problem. You need wire nuts. Home improvement stores sell them.
Hey, did you get the answer to that question? I'm wondering if I can just use electrical tape
Would you happen to know which to cut and splice on a 3 wire ? I got red white and blue.
No, but I definitely know you don;t read video descriptions. I don't write them for my health, you should read them for yours.
Thanks! I replaced this switch a few years ago and it started to go again. Now I don't have to worry about it.
Sure, no problem!
I'm ready to try this, but my wires are red, white and blue going into the panel in that order. Not sure which 2 on this are tied together.
If you were truly ready, you would have read the video description, and not commented.
This video is very helpful. I think it’s pointing me in the right direction. My model is a whirlpool WTW4800BQ0. my lid lock has four wires coming from the control board. Red white blue and yellow. Any idea how I could bypass this lid lock on my model?
Yes, there are two things you can do:
1. Throw out the machine. OR
2. Buy the parts that you need to fix it.
That's it. There's no fooling a machine like that with a lid lock, if it's broken, there's no way to bypass it. A machine like I showed has no computers in it, it's strict point-to-point wiring like wall outlets in your house.
@@jaykay18 I appreciate the prompt reply. They have the entire lid lock mechanism for $50 was just trying to see if I could avoid it. Thanks again!
@@HugoStiglitz609 No problem, best of luck in your repair.
Would this work on a MVWC300BW0 ? My Maytag washer turns on, fills up at start but once it’s ready to spin and detect load size, the lid lock light blinks and makes a clicking sound over and over like if it is trying to lock but won’t! What could be the problem ?
Without my even having to look that up, no. Lid lock machines have to be repaired properly, there's no fooling them. What's the problem? The washer is a piece of junk is what the problem is. No kidding either.
I would like attempt this on mine is it the lid lock and lid switch wires you want to split? We have a WTW5000DW1 and do you cut the wires in the back or up under the lid?
Try reading the description before you ask stupid questions that have already been answered. Congratulations, you wasted both of our time!
Thank you so much, can't afford a washer right now and this video was a blessing.
Sure, no problem.
Hi Jay. I took apart my washer and instead of grey white and green I have blue white and red. I would appreciate if you helped me out to figure out which two to splice. Thanx
There is more to a video than just the video. There's the description. OFTENTIMES, THE DESCRIPTION WILL CONTAIN VITAL INFORMATION THAT WAS NOT INCLUDED IN THE VIDEO. *ALWAYS* READ THE VIDEO DESCRIPTION!!!!!!!!!!!
@@jaykay18 I cut the blue and white wires, left the red wire as is,washer is workin perfectly once again. I won't thank you for your reply, I will thank you very much for your video. Have a great one, Jay.
@@jesercueva did you put the blue and white wire together
How many of you are now looking around your house for a fire alarm with a low battery? Lol.
Some people like that. My dad called me up one day on the phone and as he's talking to me, I could hear the low battery alarm in the background. I told him to change the battery, but no, he left it beeping, because I heard it the next time I spoke with him. He always kept spare batteries around, but maybe, just maybe, he was out of 9 volt batteries.
I needed to head out there to see him, and figured I'd bring a 9 volt battery along and give it to him, since he's generally a tightwad. I gave him the 9 volt battery.
Couple weeks later, I spoke to him on the phone. Still going off. I guess he just HAD to squeeze the last ounces of juice out of that battery before he was going to change it. For me, personally, it would drive me insane. I actually don't have that problem of a low battery since all of my smoke detectors are hard-wired to my alarm panel. Now if the alarm panel battery goes dead, that's a different story. In fact, now that I mention it, it did, a couple months ago. 5 alarm keypads started screaming all over the house. There is no way to live with that since the sound is constant. Silly me, I had an extra 8 Ah on hand so I could replace it right away. I replaced it immediately. Old battery saved for other nefarious purposes...
Will this work for the older style that’s located in the center of the body ?
As long as the machine doesn't have any lights or a "play button" on the control panel, it should work.
With this; one can open the lid and the machine won't stop, right?
Yes, that's correct.
Can you recommend a video that shows taking that panel off, so we can get to the USELESS lid lock? THANKS 🙏🏼
If your machine has a lid LOCK that actually locks the lid shut, you're out of luck, there's no defeating it. You have to buy the expensive parts and replace them.
@@jaykay18 Oh GREAT! Aren’t I lucky to buy a useless washing machine? I honestly don’t think it’s a “Safety Issue” as much as Corporate Greed… a way for Whirlpool, Maytag Et.al. to make sure we replace units frequently. This NEW (used 5 times) washer constantly makes loads so uneven, it’s going to kill the whole motor assembly.
This washer always redistributes even SMALL loads, so the machine DANCES ALL OVER THE FLOOR no matter how small or how many times I stop it to make the load even!
I’m disgusted w all of them.
But thanks a lot; at least I know.
Now I’m just gonna wash my clothes the Old Fashioned way….WITH AN OLD WOODEN WASHBOARD.
@@denirn8725 I fully agree with you on that, they're junk. Last good washer Whirlpool made rolled off the line in 2009. So, the trick is to buy a USED machine, 2009 or older, that doesn't have the lid lock. Those are called DIRECT DRIVE machines. There's no belt, no dinky motor, no sub-par wash action. It's an old-school washer that has one job to do and does it better than anything else out there. No lock, it won't really go off balance because it has an actual suspension system. It has a tub brake to prevent he tub from turning while it agitates, because that negates the effect of the agitation. It's a direct-drive machine with no belt and it has an actual transmission to do the hard work. Just like the kind we used to have, or your parents or grandparents may have had. They are out there.
If you're worried about the machine breaking down, don't. They're very easy to service, I have several repair videos on different things that can go bad. And of course there are other UA-cam channels to show you how to fix stuff. Parts are inexpensive and plentiful. Those machines run for a good 20 years without much in the way of any trouble. I have 2 machines, and I will never get rid of them or replace them with any other kind of washer. They were some of the best ever, ever made.
@@jaykay18 You guys are wonderful! You know so much about machines like washers etc. & can fix almost anything. Reminds me of Mike Rowe’s program, telling young kids, they DON’T NEED A $300K University Education to succeed & be fulfilled. They spend 4 years on Useless Knowledge they’ll never use & NEVER get the job of their “Dreams”.
I thank God & personally thank every genius tradesman I can every time I meet one. They’re the amazing people who keep our good lives GOOD in this country.
Oh & you’re right! I did think about an old refurbished washer. In my vacation house I have a 27 y/o Kenmore that’s perfect. My Granny bought it right before she died. And I bought the house without everything in it. That old Kenmore has never failed. I keep all parts I can get to clean & lubricated. AND the only lock on it, is on the final spin cycle. It stops spinning BUT you still can always open the lid.
It’s gonna be a nice “USED” IN GOOD SHAPE WASHER when this piece of junk dies…. Probably next year when it’s 2 years old. 😆
THANKS AGAIN it’s refreshing to know I’m not just the only complainer about this technology.
@@denirn8725 You are too kind! For me, I went to college, got my useless knowledge, did all that. My actual knowledge was hands-on. I was just naturally curious. I wasn't afraid to take things apart to see how they worked. I'm a computer technician by trade, as such my mechanical skills are lagging behind but I can get the job done. Mike Rowe is absolutely right. If you're willing to put your blood, sweat, and tears into stuff, it can get done. Nowadays with the advent of the Internet and UA-cam, we have instructionals and instructional videos. That makes a lot of jobs very simple these days, if only people can follow directions (they usually can't).
Tradesmen are great people, until it comes time for the bill. I once had a plumber in to change some gaskets and a valve on my boiler, he quoted me $625. I bought the parts myself and saved $600. So they usually charge too much. There are, however, some jobs that are just out of my league, and I have to pay what they ask. Finding an honest tradesman who would charge a reasonable price is one the hardest things to do.
Your granny's washer is the type just like this one in this video. And yes, the content of this video applies, you can disable that lid switch so it will stay running even with the lid open, if you want it to. On my own machines, I added that option, and put in a switch so I can enable the lid switch function again if I wanted. I also like a warm rinse, so once again, I added that option via a switch.
Regarding your junker, what you can do, though may be in the way/inconvenient, is to remove the latch from the lid of the washer, the top part. Then you stick that down into where it normally would mate up and leave it there. Might even duct tape it in place and call it good. All of the other problems will still be there, but there won't be any waiting for the machine to stop, provided you don't mind going for a spin yourself. Any other questions, I'm always here.
I am looking to buy a new washer....and was wondering if I could do this on the following washing machine: The GE GTW465ASNWW????? Is there a way to tell which machine you can do this to? Thanks so much Jay!!!!!!
That washer is garbage. As is every other washer on the market today. The only exception is Speed Queen, the "classic" model that's new for 2019.
The general rule of thumb for doing this mod is that if the washer has a lid lock of any kind, it's not going to work. Otherwise, I have no way of knowing which washer this will work on and which one it won't. It depends on what they're actually doing with the lid switch. Sometimes there are sensors and other BS that prevents further modification.
Thanks A lot! I tried the trick and it worked great.... until for some reason whatever burned out the Lid switch caused the wires to heat up and almost melt... Everyone know why or have any suggestions?
The full motor current goes through those wires. If you have a bad connection anywhere, that's a source of resistance and therefore heat. If your motor has a bad capacitor, it can pull excessive current and cause overheated wires. It's time to find the root cause of the problem instead of putting bandaids on it.
@@jaykay18 Thanks a lot. I'm currently doing missionary work in a 3rd world country so parts are not easy to get and a tech that can fix this is even harder to find. But I thought there was a short somewhere because when I lifted the control panel I heard the machine stop and start. Thanks again for your help! I'll see what I can do.
@@marcs7847 Good--that's a definite clue where the problem lies. If Amazon delivers where you are, parts are easy to get.
Not to be a hater or anyting but you can do this with other washers with different color wires. For instance mine has two White two yellow one black one blue. I believe if I hook up everything but the white wires together it will be good to go I think. The washer does not have a play or pause button or a lid lock it's an old Maytag.. What do you think brother you think I'm good? I'm about to skin this smoke wagon.. there's no ground wire on mine. Ground wire is clearly separate.
Sure, this can be done with an old Maytag like that. First thing you want to do is meter EVERYTHING. Once you do that, you should be able to determine which wires are which and what they do. Better yet just replace the switch.
@@jaykay18 hey can I show you something real quick I seen a video of this Mexican guy floating the wires and it's identical to my washers the wires are in the exact same place. I'll send you the link so you can just look at it.. I don't want to Frye nothing. I work on used appliances and sell them I have for about 2 years I'm still learning but I'm all right at it. basically I'm just trying to see if cutting these wires and splicing them together would be the same as floating it like this Mexican guy is. I would ask him very easily but his comments are turned off on every single one of his videos. I don't blame him either people are ridiculous
@@jaykay18 Man I would replace the switch but I would have to order it nothing is open right now because of the "virus". I don't really order anyting I stay away from Banks and online.. However if I continue to do what I'm doing I might as well.. b
But when you do that you have to rely on other people like the mailman and the person packing it and the person taking the order lol.
@@jaykay18 ua-cam.com/video/hdx__vUWqQ4/v-deo.html
Also I should mention the actual switch it works and everything it's just the part where the lid opens. That little piece is worn off and it's not actually hitting the switch to tell the machine that the washer is closed or open. You know what I'm saying you can put a screwdriver in the hole and run the washer fine. In the spot where the little piece is supposed to push it back when you close the washer..
I couldn't tell what Washer exactly this was, but would this work on a Whirlpool WTW5550X Washer? The lid lock mechanism in my washer is busted internally. Would this able me to actually do laundry?
Sorry, you're S.O.L. Lid lock washers have sensors that need to work to satisfy the computer. Without all of that safety equipment in place, it's not going to wash. You have to replace the broken parts, then you should be all right.
My washer dont spin but you can hear motor if I do this will it fix it.
No.
Hi, will this fix work on a Maytag Bravos MVWX655DWO washing machine? Thank you for any information.
Sorry, that's an HE junk machine. Too many sensors on that thing to make sure it doesn't take any more than 12 ounces of water, there's no way twisting a couple wires together could fool it. And based on what I've searched with that model number, it's only a few years old, so it shouldn't have broken in the first place.
The wires connecting the switch in my machine are red, white and blue. 🤔 which one is the ground?
The video description.
Boom you did it, and i repeated your process on mine and it works. Thanks
You're welcome.
Hello Jay, I have a Whirlpool Energy Saver wtw4900bw1. Do you think this fix would work. Seems easy enough to just bypass a lid lock. Thanks in advance for the reply!
That's a Playskool washer with a lid lock and a belt drive. Everything's computer controlled, and without that lid lock and switch working properly, the washer wants to be brought to the curb so it can be recycled into more Playskool junk, that will break in short order.
You need to fix the actual problem, and that means parts, maybe even sensors or circuit boards.
Thank you so much for this tutorial! You are a lifesaver!
You're welcome.
Hey jaykay. Will this work on a whirlpool WTW5000DW1?
mine has the same console as the one in the video, but no agitator.
Thanks and great video!
Darn. I just saw my model number on your junk list. Shoot. I was trying to save some cash these days.
OK, you figured it out. Junk the washer, buy one of these old school ones used, with the agitator, and never worry about laundry again. If it has a button on it to start the wash, that's the bad ones. The old school mechanical timer, the kind mom or grandma used to have.
@@kickasbutterfly READ THE DESCRIPTION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Does A mid 2000's Kenmore Elite Direct Drive use the same wire arrangement/ switch?
It should.
@@jaykay18 Okay thank you!
@@DylBuilder1 Best of luck.
Hi great video, my question is that my machine lid lock has 4 wires, red, blue, yellow and white. What 2 wires I connect together and what do I need to do with the other two wires? If you could help, it’ll be greatly appreciated! Thanks
My help is for you to read the description. ALWAYS READ THE DESCRIPTION, ON EVERY VIDEO YOU WATCH, IT HELPS PREVENT STUPID QUESTIONS THAT HAVE ALREADY BEEN ANSWERED.
@@jaykay18 wow that was really rude
@@markusray319 And you're another one who doesn't read the description, where you have been duly warned.
lol i just read the bottom of your description - 😂
Someone tried the same on my current used washer and those wires just caught fire. What would cause that
Probably the wrong wires were connected, live was shorted to neutral or ground. That creates a dead short across the wire.
@jaykay18 looks like they did the same wires and just used electrical tape. Got loose and started arcing maybe? Redid the connection and will see what happens🤞
@@brettc1981 Yeah electrical tape isn't going to cut it. You're putting the full current of the motor through those wires, it needs a solid connection. At the very least, wire nuts, better would be solder and heat shrink.
Will this trick work on the newer Whirlpool models also? Model NTW4516FW1
Sorry, no. There's no fixing that. Not even after you fix it, since the wash action isn't worth a damn.
@@jaykay18 well you are a man of your words. " ...i will publicly humiliate you..." However you have a strong opinion on this Amana 4516 wash action?
@@samlion2970 Once again, the wash action is not worth a damn. Last good washer rolled off the line in about 2010.
Saved us some money and time. For some one on a 700.00 a month income thanks wife greatly appreciated this.
No problem at all! You're better fixing the machine you have anyway since washers today are garbage; you'll never get things so clean again. Fix whatever goes wrong and you'll be much better off anyway, laundry-wise and financially!
I want to try this for my washer but I don’t have wire strippers or the little cover for the wires . Would I just be able to use electrical tape to cover the exposed wires ?
For a test, you're better off unplugging the connector and probing that with a short piece of 14 gauge wire. If you don't have any wire, you can use 2 paper clips together in tandem, bent into shape--FOR NO MORE THAN A SECOND, they cannot carry the current needed and will get hot! Don't even THINK about touching the exposed stuff, and keep it away from the machine, in other words, hold the wire behind the connector in the air. Get some wire nuts, you can get them at a hardware store for a couple bucks. No strippers, a pocket knife can work in a pinch but it'll be a sloppy job. Strippers are a couple of bucks as well.
I have that same question right now
You have saved my life thank you ! I fixed mine !! God bless you!
Great, glad to hear!
Thank You I Hate my washer and now you made it Better
You're welcome.
Whirlpool lidlock 10682535, snipped outside wires (blue & red) and wire nutted together. Washer is still giving the locked LED status / clicking sound. What else could my problem be
You didn't read the description.
Sory didn’t realize there is a full description I thought it was just a short 5 word description of the video
@@jus10inla That's why it's always important to read them, you never know.
@jaykay18 im still learning how UA-cam does descriptions sorry
@@jus10inla It's the same for every video you watch.
Hey...i tried to bypass my switch.. it didn't work. My machine won't come on. You can hear the lid arm click to trigger the sensor, but the trigger doesn't start the cycle. Then it won't fill nor start the agitation cycle. But it will spin and drain. Whats wrong with my poor crazy machine?
If you can give me the model number of your machine, I'd be happy to look at the schematic and see what other problem your machine may have.
@@jaykay18 Whirlpool WTW58ESVW
@@jaykay18 I've unhooked both water hoses and checked water to make sure the pipes didn't freeze and burst or something and water indeed Comes from the wall, just won't pump into the machine to fill it. The machine is not telling itself to fill&agitate..
@@jaykay18 i also unhooked the water hose and manually filled the tub with water to see if it would agitate once the "filled" water level was reached, and it did not begin agitation cycle. But if i manually adjust the dial to the spin portion it will spin and drain.
@@FixitWithFoxy Thanks for the additional information. But without the model number, I don't know exactly what machine you have. They made many of the same style over the years but each one has little nuances that makes it different from others. If you have the model number, I will be happy to give you my insight.
I have a newer kenmore 200 series and my wires are red whit and blue. Will this work and which wires do I use?
That's a Playskool washer with a lid lock and a belt drive. Everything's computer controlled, and without that lid lock and switch working properly, the washer wants to be brought to the curb so it can be recycled into more Playskool junk, that will break in short order.
You need to fix the actual problem, and that means parts, maybe even sensors or circuit boards.
Thanks for letting me at least finish the load without bailing water. This will buy us some time on these old appliances. Now the wife gets to pick out a new washer and dryer. :-)
Make that smiley face a frown face--there are NO washing machines on the market, at any price, that can do as good of a job as what you have. Fix what you have at any price, believe me, you'll end up being really sorry if you replace it. Not to mention, it won't last anywhere near as long as this machine.
I have two of these "direct drive" Whirlpool machines, one is 11 years old and the other is 26 years old. I've replaced ONE part on the older one, a $6 part called the agitator dogs, and I have a video on how to change that. Also I have replaced the timer on this machine in this video, and a motor coupler on another one. They're easy to work on, parts are cheap and plentiful. Trust me. If you don't want to and pick out a new set, tell me how bad it is.
Why would you need to get a new set? The newer they are...the worse they are.
Hopefully you will see this and respond, will this work for model wtw4616fw2
Your washer is made by Playskool. To the curb it goes.
Hi. Would this work on a Whirlpool WTW4950XW3?
READ THE VIDEO DESCRIPTION, then you tell me.
Thank you sir. Much appreciated. The part was 10 bucks online. 28 at a local store. To me it's just 1 more thing to break (as it did). I'm good with bypassing it. The repair cost me nothing. Back in business now. thanks.
You're welcome!
What Whirlpool model number is this? I have a Kenmore 110, which is made of Whirlpool parts, including Whirlpool lid lock mechanism #W11307244.
Don't remember the model. But if you notice, this machine does NOT have a lid lock, yours is a different animal altogether and doesn't even wash properly, so you're best just getting rid of it.
I ended up cutting all 3 👎🏽 can it still work if crimp the ground too?
You can leave the ground disconnected, or reconnect it to the chassis for safety, but it should be grounded through the case screws.
jaykay18 I left it bare should I put tape on it ? There’s no way to ground it unless I drill a whole in the frame
@@garygonzales1568 Yeah just tape it up good and you'll be fine.
Do you have any suggestions on a good replacement washer?
Something non-HE. Yes, an old-school, used washer, like one your mother or grandmother used to have. It'll run for years and years and years, and your clothes will be cleaner than you ever thought was possible.
Thank you. That’s exactly what I’ll do.
@@joevara2600 Excellent idea, you will be pleased at the end result!
My washers lock has decided to stay locked and wont budge, will this help fix it?
You've tried unplugging it?
jaykay18 yes i have, ive looked it over and tried figuring out what else to do but its still broke
If it stays locked when unplugged then something is mechanically broken. You're going to have to fix the actual issue.
When the wires are cut and splice together, what size is the screw thingy?
The "screw thingy" is called a wire nut. You use the wire nut size appropriate to the gauge wire you're dealing with. Or, in "screw thingy" terms, whichever one fits.
do you have to use a wire nut or can you just use electrical tape if that’s all i got