You NEED to add a second latch to your side door so that you can’t be locked into your trailer by someone from the outside or you will be in serious trouble. Buy a second outside latch to disable the locking mechanism and then lock the door from the inside once you’re in. That’s the 1st thing I did
Since retiring 16 months ago I've been living nomadically in my single axle 6x14, 6' interior height cargo trailer conversion that I pull with a Nissan Pathfinder. My experience has taught me differently on a few things that you cover. I think most of these might be because my trailer is relatively small and simple. My trailer weighs about 3500 lbs. I've logged about 13k miles pulling it. I asked several pros about sway bars and got several opinions. In the end I decided to go without them since they add weight and cost. The only issues I've had are with high winds (the pro I talked to who seemed most knowledgeable said sway bars really wouldn't help much with high winds), so I don't travel when they're in the forecast. I've never had a problem with big rigs flying by causing me to feel like I might lose control. Again, it may be the smaller rig, but I use a standard hitch and haven't had any problems. I've never been a fan of AC. I don't have it in my trailer and don't miss it. I have a ramp style rear door that I use as a deck. On hot days I open the back and it's amazing how the breeze flows through and keeps it comfortable. Since my roof is one solid sheet, I didn't want to cut into it as it could become a source of leaks in the future. While I've only camped in freezing temps a handful of nights or so, I don't have insulation in the floor and don't need it. Maybe it's because after 30 winters in a big old Wisconsin farm house, I'm used to it, but I think it's more because heat rises, and unless you're heating the floor itself I don't think the floor insulation does much (Waterproofing the underside to protect the plywood is important though.). I used 1.5' foam on the walls and 2' on the ceiling. Just a candle can raise the inside temp a few degrees! Lastly, you suggest going bigger, saying that 9 out of 10 who buy the wrong size buy too small. Maybe it's because I'm a full-timer and most of your audience seem to be vacationers, but I've seen more people downsize on their second rig than upsize. While you've got lots of great advice and info for the more luxury-minded (than me) camper, my advice to anyone who wants to keep it simple is... keep it simple! My holding tanks will never leak because I don't have them. And I never have to go hunting for a dump station. My grey water tank is a half gallon jug. I carry 4 five gallon water bottles with me and can stay out for about three weeks. I power my 32"TV, Dometic fridge and everything else with 2 small solar generators totaling less than 1500W (Power audit? What's that?). Heat takes lots of electric, so I heat and cook with LP. Reheating coffee takes a few seconds longer without a microwave, and stove-top toast is just as tasty. I'm not really disagreeing with anything you've said, mind you. It's just amazing to me how different our experiences have been because of our very different trailers! In the end, being happy in your rig is what counts. Hey,I've got my flat screen, my recliner, and my 6'x3' picture window. I'm happy! (And even more long-winded than you it seems! ;) God bless!
A guy up in Maine calls it; ' Simple Elegance'. You're correct as many people from this Great Continental Country travel around different people reguire different things. I'm a Great-grandfather from a farm in the mountains of Colorado... My Wife grew up on the Island of Grenada 🇬🇩. So we're going to have intense fellowship over the thermostat.
Mistake number seven, I really appreciate your attention and devotion to the safety of towing. That’s a really powerful place to be for a moment. I cannot overstate how important your trailer safety towing wise is. As a former OTR truck driver, the number of four wheeled vehicles towing trailers making very poor decisions was phenomenal. Yes please educate yourselves. An important place as well, is the engineer your load distribution. Keep in mind what your building needs to be in basic compliance the physics of something being in motion. Load distribution of your trailer, as well as a properly powered tow vehicle, combined with DOT approved braking systems, AND, the anti-sway/load distribution hitch. There is no substitution for proper weight distribution.
I've experienced sway on two occasions, both times were due to improper weight distribution. The first time was early in my trailer towing experience, I had loaded the trailer with rock, loaded evenly front to back. Easily fixed by shifting some rocks from the back to the front. The second time was with a trailer that has little tongue weight of its own. The trailer was only partially loaded, with only the largest item tied down in the front of the trailer. The rest of the load was small boxes that I couldn't tie down, some of these slid to the rear of the trailer, due to the roughness of the road. This was fixed by moving them forward and blocking them in as well as I could.
So true! I think it is crazy that weight distribution and anti-sway systems are really not mentioned with most videos. Luckily I was recommended trailer crashes via UA-cam recommended and found anti-sway systems and things to avoid when building. What about automatic sway detection with braking systems? There is one by Tuscon sway control system.
Lol, a trucker talking about four wheeled vehicles making poor decisions 🤣 I run between Oklahoma and California monthly pulling a 16' cargo and cannot count how many times a careless or dgaf trucker has cut me off just because he didn't want to hit his brakes.
_From my own custom build, I agree with your assessment. But, would like to add on top some of your points. When it comes to A/C, if it is over 15 feet long and just go with a mini-split 115v if you have the room. I live out in the hot desert area where it can reach up to 118˚. I tried a couple of different AC units and burned them up from working them too hard; just get it down to 84˚. Thank goodness they were ones that I had from ex-customers builds. With the mini-split, I can keep it 78˚ all day long and use about 700 w to 875 watts when doing it. What really helps is the insulation of the whole thing, essential, on top of that use Henry Elastometric roof sealant [ white ] that alone cut the hot heat from the roof down to about 85˚ to 89˚ to the touch._ _Your right error on the bigger side, especially on bad days you need the room for whatever. Then for the heat, of course, you have the mini-split, but you should really think about a 5Kw diesel heater for 15 feet and over; 2Kw or 3Kw for under 15 feet. Then again, try to understand where you're going to travel and go straight to a 5Kw diesel heater. They're safe and dry heat. I install them, and if people have any questions, please ask. Whatever you do, don't get into the hype about the other brands. Here the secret they ALL are made in China and use 85% of the same parts. Most of the problems are because of errors in the installments of the heaters. For the mock-up, I used cardboard boxes as the best it gives you a true 3D and space. Agree 100%_
Thanks for your tips and taking the time to write it up! I always hear good things about mini split AC's. Maybe on my next build. I did do the elastomeric roof, and 75% of my roof is covered in solar panels, so we'll see how I do in extreme heat environs. Regarding Diesel heaters, I dont trust the chinese diesels. Not yet anyway. The reviews just show them as very cheaply made, and considering the potential for combustion / explosion, I'm not willing to risk it. Now if there was a more expensive, quality, Made in the USA option, even at double the price, I would probably go that route. But my plan is to locate myself outside of temperature extremes and go to wherever its mild and pleasant! :)
@@solohomesteader thanks for the reply. On a side note; I’ve had my diesel heater for three years, and they have been around for decades, plus being use has a preheat for coolant in all kinds of cars around the world.
I was looking at trying to instal A EG4 3k wat inverter with a 48v 100Ah battery my need are to install a 9000 btu mini split w/ heat .. i need to run the a.c for the better portion of the day & night .. also run a fridge & occasional microwave with 4 outlets and 4 small puck lights in the ceiling can you offer me any insight on a pre assembled inverter package thats simple to put together i have some knowledge of how to build but the electrical engineering part of this stumps me.
Another possible “tip” is typically single axle trailers don’t have brakes. I was told unless you specifically ask for a brake axle on 12’ and under you don’t get one. Normally tandem axle trailers have at least once braking axle. Something the average person might not realize and once you add in all your build you’re going to want that brake. Just a thought.
They sell brake kits with hubs and they can be easily installed there are many UA-cam videos showing how. Today an electronic brake controller is also pretty straightforward and in many cases the manufacturer offers a T so you need not even splice wires.
Most of the advice is spot on. I use a Honda EU 2000 generator and a 500 watt 5000 BTU window air conditioner for my van in the Tucson Arizona summer and in my bed room in Yuma. Insulation is essential. Probably the biggest reason why people fail at living in the desert summer heat. The biggest mistake I can see you made is using to much wood, making the trailer heavy. Think airplane construction use light weight material. I tend to camp out in the trailer like a backpacker on a through hike. Then slowly do simple improvements. Occam was a smart dude. It is also known as the "KISS" principal, Keep it simple stupid. Poring water from a jug is the simplest water system. People have been doing it since the beginning of mankind. I keep water in gallon jugs that I fill up when doing laundry.
Ryan my Bride of 52 yrs when this spring to BBNP for first real adventure in our 12x7x7 cargo trailer. Honestly I think it was the best road trip we had ever made in our lives. We live in central Va. till November and the we use out trailer to travel to McAllen Tx. For the winter where we stay for the winter months. Not in our cargo trailer. But when we left the REO GRANDE VALLEY. On March 16 /23 we spent 5 days in Terlingua Texas. We just amazed at the beauty of that area. We spent 23 days out before arriving home in central Va. and did 3200 miles. So we know what we liked and didn’t like about our conversation. We pretty much did everything you suggested. We watched your video in early 22 thank you for opening my eyes. The only thing I regret on is when we ordered our trailer custom 0:03 from factory was not getting a straight axle instead of a torsion axle. It really sets to low I think now. And I tow with a 2016 tundra supper crew plenty of power. Great video. Thanks. Oh by the way I put 2” insulation under the floor and sealed all the cracks and it made a great difference in temp. Especially on the those cold spring night on the way home.
Regarding insulation - I always recommend getting some 1/2" plywood straps and gluing them along the metal studs before ininsulation. Give yourself that extra 1/2" for a total of 1.5" insulation. 50% more for minimum work is always worth the investment.
Good idea, crazy. Even better is to get 1/4" fan-fold insulation to cover both the 1" insulation and the metal frame. That eliminates the gaps in the insulating envelope while taking up less precious floor space and headroom.
Great information to consider before building. I think your 3 best are. Layout your floor plan. Hitch system and use a professional for advice where needed. Interestingly I've built corporate jet interiors owned multiple large boats and 4 rv trailers and its still taking me 3 months to figure exactly how I want my conversion. The acronym of K.I.S.S. is helpful when planning. Thanks for sharing.
Good video 1) Size: Be clear about how you intend to use the trailer. I went with a 6x12 trailer for a family of four because we want something nimble in town and able to go down some dirt roads and boondocking and poking around in more remote areas. Increases in size make moving more difficult. Reductions and size limits space and capacity. Understand your tradeoffs. If we were plan on spending most of our time at improved campgrounds and staying put longer, a larger trailer would be better. 2) Insulation: I agree. With no insulation or inadequate insulation, you will be less comfortable and your heating and cooling needs are much more difficult to manage. Needing to run your AC or heat continuously can be very noisy and drive up other expenses (generator, solar, batteries, heating fuel....) 3) Climate control (AC and heat): Absolutely correct!!! Being continuously hot and sweaty or cold is a miserable experience. For me, the trailer is a haven to use rest and be comfortable after having enough of the outdoors or when the weather goes bad. 4) Power / electricity: I agree. Knowing your power consumption and power supplies is important for executing a plan. 5, 6 and 7): Agree. For towing, stay well below the rated capacity of your tow vehicle if you plan on moving the trailer frequently or long distances. It is no fun driving a maxed out tow vehicle because there is very little margin for errors (turning, breaking, and accelerating). Also, you will wear out the tow vehicle much more quickly. Bonuses also agree
I bought a CT from a guy, everything he told me was a lie. Rust, bad wheels & tires, No real insulation and what there was, it was all molded, no waterproofing, it was made so badly that on a few occasions I’ve considered leaving it at the landfill! I ended up gutting the entire trailer and started from scratch. I’m stuck now with the electrical...but I have learned not to trust sellers.
4 years full time in a cargo trailer. Thanks for stressing the importance of a proper wt. distribution and sway control. Mine saved my life! As for air conditioning and insulation: I have 2" of insulation on the ceiling, a 1" rubber floor, none in the walls, and no AC. I camp in the snowy mountains and the blistering desert. No problem. And, if I do have a problem, I also have a key to turn on the engine and move to a different climate. 💜
Good tips for some but I got to disagree somewhat. I'd say think about where you are going, when and what you will do, the bigger the trailer, the less you'll love pulling it, less love means less use. Has to be big enough but don't just go bigger for the sake of big. A ceiling AC RV unit may not even run a 1000 days, they are horrible and expensive. A window unit is the way to go, they work, they are cheap, if it breaks toss it and get another one, easy. Window units do make the build harder making it look better but not that big a deal. Sealing up, easily said, hard to do, but the best way is to wrap it on the outside, rino cover, canvas or vinal wrap, otherwise it's a constant issue, just check annually. Towing? The bigger the trailer the more it costs to tweek the towing gear, small is simple. Never flip an axel, it changes the mount positions and that is no0t good. Change the springs and mounts. Drains, use a rubber hose from an auto supply, glue and clamp, put a bucket underneath, why tow gray water, dump it properly. Toilet, use a bucket and trash bag type, simple, clean, no black water, no crapy hose. Anyway, great info, thanks...... :)
I actually find bigger trailers earlier to pull, although somewhat harder on the truck. But the longer, the easier to back up and the less sway it actually develops. I also disagree with you axel flip. My truck is too tall for my trailer now, so when I get a chance I'm flipping the axel. I've done it before on my wood hauling trailer. Have me 4" if lift, which allowed me larger types and more ground clearance. I did the spring at the same time and added another 5k total (2500 on each side). That trailer tracks perfect and rides extremely nice for a 4×8 trailer. I'm working on a leather studio now with me new trailer. It will get the axels flipped. The ground clearance absolutely sucks and I can't stand such small tires. Plus I want to pull it flat without having to have a huge drop in my hitch.
Trailer Sway, Tongue Weight is KEY... If you put to much weight behind the axle or On the axle you can build in trailer sway. Just as too much tongue weight can tax the tow vehicle. Not enough tongue weight can make your trailer react to wind easily. traveling with low water or full water can change the way the trailer pulls. backing in your SXS will put the engine over the axles instead of close to the rear doors. moving weight to the front of the trailer just for traveling will help also Tongue weight should be at least 10 to 15% of your trailers weight. Any less and she'll wag the dog, which is Deadly. on my equipment trailers, having the skid steer to far back on the trailer causes sway. Simply moving it forward a foot or two and you can safely run the speed limit just as to much tongue weight takes weight off the steering axle of the tow vehicle. If your trailer is finished you can still move weight around for traveling.
No such thing as to big. This guy is smart about this. Honestly this guy is the first video I have seen about this list . Thank you sir . I would have mine sprayed with undercoating for protection.
Great vid... Just like youtubers most financial experts, are not experts... they sell products that make them a profit... My first was in 1980, E-150 conversion... Toilet: 5 gal bucket, plastic shopping bags, and a pool noodle (figure it out), knot off each bag when done, maybe double bag it. Use a pee jar or several (obviously with sealable lids) a pee funnel for the gals, and a piece of hose... all stores in the bucket with a lid... for hot water; (I have 2) 4" PVC pipes mounted to the roof racks, 1 directly to the outside shower, the other is plumbed in (I also have them connected to each other with a valve between) you can shut one off and fill the other... I have a Schrader valve and use a hand pump to charge the system... and / or open the fill valve for gravity fed... I put a 10' length of hose on my drain to get the water away... happy trails...
Thanks for the tips Ryan! Get advice about hitches for your vehicle and trailer, my 14 footer definitely doesn't need WDH with an F-150 that has a tow package. Never flip a drop axel, use a heavier helper spring. Roof A/C is expensive, a Frigidaire 5000 btu Eco will run off of 1200 watts of solar. Get a Bluetti 2000 watt solar generator, use the KISS method. Insulation-having been in the Army staying in a large PVC coated heavy canvas tent, we heated it to 75 degrees easily with a diesel heater when it was 25/30 below zero at Ft. Drum and to 70 degrees at Ft. Sam Houston in 112 degree heat, with a 15,000 A/C unit, I can tell you insulation makes any space more efficient, however a tent isn't an RV. Using heavy canvas inside a cargo trailer can keep you warm or cool. Air is the insulator, foam simply traps air, gluing foam to a metal surface cuts the R value in half in high temps. Point is, a large A/C can cool an uninsulated cargo trailer, you can certainly heat without insulating, air flow controls moisture with venting. A garden shade cloth material can cover your trailer in the heat, shade makes a big difference.
⭐THANK YOU THANK YOU ⭐ I've been watching dozens of videos for years and collecting information to do the right thing. You're very thoughtful and patient. Great 👍😎 video. I wish You much success. Just a couple of thoughts 🤔: a. Get a fuzzy cover for your clip mic. b. Get the bigger trailer 👍 try to put the LEAST in it. c. Wear a brighter colored Tshirt. especially inside (less pale). d. Great way to find water ways or 🪲🐛 holes is at night with a bright flashlight 🔦. e. Try wearing different HATS for different problems.... ask local companies if you could wear their hats in your videos. Local Plumbing Co. for water issues or Local hardware store for building supply problems. You could stay put and then say you just wear a LOTTA' HATS... 🧑🍳👷🧑🔧 f. for the hitch thing would be good to see a small white board. You do SUCH A GREAT JOB explaining but it's also great to see a picture of that. LASTLY.... there were several things I definitely learned from this video. 1) the 'Thousand' idea... That's GOLD!! Puts things in perspective. 2) the cardboard boxes and furniture. I can picture it but my wife would never see it without the fake furniture. LASTLY I appreciate your passion for 🦺 SAFETY 🦺!! I was following an old guy moving into his daughter's house in another state. He wasn't balanced right or have the correct the correct hitch height and it started to 'fish' really bad. He lost control because he slammed on the brakes with a small trailer that wasn't hooked up with it's own. They broke apart and I turned sideways to stop traffic. The trailer was down the highway about a thousand feet and his old truck was pretty messed up. I stayed until all his tools and personal items were off the road. Luckily he wasn't hurt and his cat was still buckled into the carrier. Thank you again for the comprehensive video..... (Long ... But Good)
Best insulation is Lizard Skin Thermal Ceramic coating plus rigid foam. No one seems to be doing this except one sprinter conversion van on all the internet. Maybe I just think way way super deep into things.
Great video - thanks for posting this. My favorite is actually the simplest - don't go over 60Mph! So many safety results from this one piece of advice alone, and fuel savings, and enjoying the drive....etc etc. Excellent!
Great tip! I usually do about 63 and let off the gas anytime I see a dip or bump or bad road conditions. Driving too fast is a good way to ruin your rig.
"Flipping the axles" is a term I really hate, because it is confusing at best. You don't actually flip the axle over, but you flip them from over the springs, to under. That gives you approximate 5 inches of lift, depending on axle diameter, and thickness of the spring stack. Some people do flip the axles over, which is dumb, and dangerous, especially if the axles are bent for camber. With a drop axle, this is way to much lift for safety, also., like you mentioned, the brakes are not in the correct direction.
I got a fantastic deal on my cargo trailer because a tree branch went through the roof. On various ideas to patch it, I ended up putting 4” used roof insulation, which I also installed under the the trailer between the framing. And I can tell you on a 103 degree day in direct sun, the inside is amazingly comfortable before kicking in the a/c. Just an idea , you can not have to much insulation if you can fit it.
I would NOT pierce my roof for any reason! A ceiling fan can be wall mounted with a cowling/fitted awning on the exterior. Cuts down on sunlight coming in as well. And reduces the rain noise, too!!!
In 2018 I bought my 6x12SA trailer with 6' 3" ceiling just for the purpose of hauling motorcycles and using as a garage when at hotels. At the time I only needed a 5x10SA trailer with 5'6" ceiling so I did size up. March of 2020 rolled around and staying at hotels became difficult so I decided I wanted a toy hauler. The RV dealers shut down for a time and when they reopened the prices were dramatically higher, so I decided to turn mine into a rustic toy hauler. I wish I would have traded it for a larger trailer, but I have made it work for me over the past 3.5 years. I have everything I need except running water. Being near the TN, NC, GA mountains most of my camping is at state parks with bath houses. I would do something different if there was public land available. I did have to add a dehumidifier to keep the humidity at bay. Most builds I have seen must take into consideration boondock camping. For state parks I have no need for solar, batteries, shower, etc. I have a 5 gallon bucket with a toilet seat lid and cat litter for emergencies as well as wide mouth Gatorade bottles I save to serve the other need. From an electrical standpoint I put in 30 amp service with two 20 amp circuits. I have a portable AC unit, dehumidifier, dorm cube fridge, microwave, coffee maker, toaster, hot plate (never used), LED lights, and a laptop. Layout was determined by my motorcycles. I have to stagger the bikes so they take up the majority of the box. All of my kitchen and cabinets are in the V-nose plus 8 inches. My bed is a vertical drawer against the wall that lifts up and folds out.. I sit in an umbrella chair and use a TV tray table for the laptop. If I have two bikes loaded I do end up carrying a lot of camping supplies in the back of the enclosed truck bed because I am within 50 lbs of my cargo trailer GVWR. I could add a brake kit and up my GVWR another 850 lbs because I would be using the entire capacity of the axles and frame.
Inspired by the teardrops I was looking at a 4x6 "V" nose. I settled on a 5x8 flat nose. I thought about the extra space and how the 5x8 looked less like a coffin inside...
I wanted to buy an island for the kitchen when we moved in. I knew there wasn't a ton of space for the width, so I found a nice square one. The hubby said it wouldn't work. I built it to scale out of cardboard and set it up to show him it would work. It would be a little tight with the refridgerator door open, but otherwise was a perfect fit. I bought the island and we truly can't imagine our kitchen without it. Also, he was super impressed with my cardboard replica.
All pretty much common sense, but the fact that someone who has been thru this more than once (pretty much) is pointing them out shows they are serious needs. I appreciate the information, hope it all keeps working perfect for you Ryan. Safe travels
When deciding what size trailer you need, make sure you have the rig to haul it. If you are trying to pull a 12' trailer that you convert and fill with stuff with a toyota 4runner or some other small SUV, or car, you are going to be in trouble. You will put a lot of stress on your transmission and may even have major issues pulling through the mountains , and even have issues stopping safely.
Absolutely. Although its easier to get a bigger vehicle to pull than it is to get a bigger trailer since vehicles can be "off the shelf" and easily financed, but a custom built trailer is extreme time and effort. Harder to "redo". So if i were going to err on the side of caution, it would be too large of a trailer / too small of a pull vehicle.
I would say know your needs and do what fits you best. If you are towing with a 4 runner or minivan know your trailer is going to be limited in the size that is appropriate for your tow vehicle. WEIGHT is your biggest enemy, know your needs again. A single person can use a camping cot to sleep on, the several drawer plastic drawer units and plastic totes for storage and a several gallon water jug with a battery operated pump for a water supply. I see so many people putting in wooden plank ceilings, thick planked walls and even going with laminate flooring. building massive bed frames and counter/storage units out of wood/plyboard and all of that weighs a ton. Put in your foam insulation, lay down vinyl flooring which is easy to clean and a couple of small throw rugs in strategic areas make underfoot areas comfortable and use something like the shower boards (designed for bathroom use and a slick wipeable finish) which are really not that heavy and again easy to clean and wipe down as your main build is done and lightweight. I bet many of these full build conversions on the smaller sized trailers are actually over the weight limit of the trailers suspension and tire capacities. A/C a cheaper non digital control 5000btu window unit is cheap, consumes pretty much the least amount of voltage . Not that hard to install and not that heavy and less than $200. Most rv roof a/c units the metal supports for the roof on most cargo trailers will have to be beefed up structurally to handle the weight of the roof ac and cost up to $2000 or more easily. Again how you are going to use the trailer will dictate a lot but a single person can easily take a smaller trailer, keep it light and tow with less than a 1/2 truck as the minimum tow vehicle. Biggest thing is on the smaller sizes make sure you get a tall enough roof height so you can comfortably stand up in it, those folks over 6ft tall the 7' height smaller trailers will be a little harder to find under about 14' in length.
Two other items that will reduce sway is to use a two axle trailer vs a single axle. The other is to make sure that when building your trailer, make sure that 10-15 percent of your trailer GVWR is on your hitch. If the trailer has too much tail weight, it will cause sway on its own at higher traveling speeds.
5 gallon bucket with a 13 gallon trash bag and a nice wooden toilet seat works perfect. No nasty crap hanging around or smelling. Do your business pull out bag ,throw away. If you're in the woods well, you know what to do .
Agree. People overthink the toilet situation, and dealing with a black water tank seems nasty and people report lots of spills / mishaps. I used sawdust and a bag in a bucket when I was building my tiny house and it worked fine for a few months.
Our toilet system will be the Humanure system by Joseph Jenkins. He wrote the book "The Humanure Handbook". We use that system already at our vacation home that doesn't have a septic system and it works fantastic.😊
They were all good tips and if you have seen a trailer start to sway or worse been the vehicle towing it , it becomes a scary situation and from my experience having your weight poorly distributed in your trailer or caravan is a major cause of these accidents. Braking when your trailer is not pulling straight behind you is a real no no. Like when you have accelerated past another vehicle because you were too impatient to wait and then realize you are driving too fast and touch your brakes before u have straightened up. a recipe for disaster.
Great video! You have excellent presence and very good pronunciation. People should appreciate how well you said, “cargo camper conversion,” so well, so many times. I think all of your points are very good. And remember there are a huge amount of new people trying this out who have no idea. Just like you did. The hardest thing to accomplish is preventing condensation build up. There can be NO air space behind the walls and the best way to prevent it is to spray foam. Bravo on the sway kit and going slow suggestions. Could have added a bit about how important trailer brakes are in those situations. There are a few trailer towing tutorials on here and I advise looking them up. Have to maintain the tire air pressure at all times. Check often Well that’s it
I had a brand new 2007 19' Bambi Airstream with an air conditioner and I bet I only used it 5 times in 13 years. and I was camping almost every month on the California desert as well as the mountains. I sold it in 2020 and just last month I bought a 6 x 12 tandem cargo trailer . . . NO air conditioner this time but I will put in a heater as soon as I start freezing :o)
Cali is much easier climate, unless it's "inland empire", in my experience. But TExas, AZ, etc REQUIRE a/c or it feels like an oven. How is the 6x12 working out so far?
You emphasize being prepared to invest in the fundamentals, that will benefit over a long payback period. For me, that means Tip #1 should be "Buy an all-aluminum trailer!". Not only will this avoid the rust issues of steel, but you start with a lower weight. Related to weight, weigh the empty trailer at a public weighbridge (manufacturers lie!), and measure the tongue weight. A big parcel scale under a jack stand under the hitch will do fine for this. Expect a properly built trailer to have 10% - 15% weight at the hitch. Now figure out your center of load - i.e where your added weight should balance to also be 10% - 15% on the hitch. This is a line 12.5% of the distance between the axle and the hitch in front of the axle. (For twin axles, measure from half way between.) You can verify you have this right by measuring weight on the hitch while you position a heavy item inside, e.g. a 100lb portable generator positioned on the load line should add 12.5lbs at the hitch. From here, weigh every single thing you put into your trailer. Keep a spreadsheet, so you know exactly what you have added. Make sure your added weight is evenly distributed in front of and behind your load line, and continually re-measure hitch weight to ensure you are staying within 10% - 15% of total at the hitch Position heavy items like batteries according to how they balance your rig (side to side as well as front to back), so that you can place kitchen etc according to preference. Heavy items that change weight - think water and gas tanks, fridge and food storage, should be positioned as near the load line as possible, so your trailer balances correctly full or empty. Building for light weight and ideal balance takes additional thought and effort, but will result in a rig that tows well and safely, without a weight distribution hitch or sway control, and with minimum strain on your tow vehicle. Have fun out there!
Quick thought about number 8: it may be called an “axle flip kit” but under NO circumstances should anyone at anytime ever actually turn an axle upside down to get extra height because the axle is curved in an arch for weight distribution. If you actually flip an axle you will destroy that axle fast. 👍
A flip kit changes the position of the axel from above the leaf springs to below for extra height or from below to above the springs for a lower stance, not the orientation of the axel.it doesn’t change the distribution, only the height and center of gravity.
Check out my cargo conversion by tapping the green circle. Sorry about the shaking . I didn't put in a shower or toilet, I would rather that space for more use ,so my shower and toilet are simple. Most camp grounds have bathrooms and I kept my camper a little simpler. And I live in Central Florida. Good video. I had 3 months to decide my setup from the ordering day to receiving it. Plus I spent extra money on windows and insulation and finished ceiling and camper style side door. Oh,and as far as a shower you can take one outside when its warm . I bought a pump up jug with a hose and shower head which holds just over a gallon of water .Water is one thing that should be conserved unless readily available.
Another idea. Run a dehumidifier or portable A/C unit in the trailer during construction and at night. This will remove moisture from your breath and dew at night.
@@solohomesteader Glad to help. I had always dreamed of converting a full size school bus into a motor home after my kids grew up but being 68 now and having my 11th spine surgery in April, I'm a little past my prime but I live my dreams, by extension, through people like you and others who do their own custom work. I have the electrical, mechanical and plumbing skills but would have to hire a carpenter, finisher and a new spine before I could even drive it. I used to joke that if you give me a design, I can make anything out of steel. Ask me to make it out of wood and I'll ruin it every time. The welder keeps setting the wood on fire. I learned how to drive a stick in a 1965 GMC church bus, in the 1970's, back in my 20's and drove heavy equipment for a time before settling down to a forklift in the freezers of a Florida juice plant. Then driving a 27' box truck towing a trailer carrying my van when we moved 1,000 miles north to live in 2001. The company retired me in 1999 after surgery #5. I have the skills and confidence to do half the build and to pilot it but I literally don't have the spine for it. 😆🤕
you assume that people build a camper trailer for 1.000 uses but I bet, the very most will only use it way less! Who has the time for that??? People who I know that have a camper will either use it for 5, 10, 20... nights per year, maybe some years not at all. Or - they are retired and then use it a lot 😂. As well, for many people it is not more than a trend or temporary philosophy of travelling / camping. I think people must be true to themselves and run a strategy: either with small effort for small money like it is just a box with rudimental accessories. Or do it really well and have fun for a long time. MAybe it is not bad to make a simnple version first, test it, see what is good or bad and then decide maybe to keep the existing one or sell it. Removable "trailer Box" would be super. So you can get a Standard trailer size and maybe sell it afterwards or use it differently.
Hey friend, I’m just now starting to do my research and this video has given me a wealth of information. There’s a ton of valuable information here so thank you. I’m now subscribed.
Sway is a product of poor weight distribution INSIDE the trailer, not the hitch. A much more important consideration than the hitch is how the weight is distributed in the trailer. I see way too many people that put too much weight too far from the axles.
For me the #4 advice was the one i would not have thought about, especially the 3D version. I think that is really worth the time! As for hitches: for heavy trailers the 3P hitch would be an outstanding great investment, it eliminates sway completely! you're conception about "flipping an axle" is wrong. your axle is not going to be upside down, its just going to be under the springs instead of sitting on top of the springs. So its still as sealed as before and water gets in the same way as before.
Around 25 minutes in where you talk about sealing your box the back drop for the video is a wooden wall, looks like pine with a urethane coating maybe? In any case you'll notice black grain, that is an indicator of condensation behind the wood. While you do want to seal the outside it is best to ventilate the walls to the inside and create a thermal break between the metal studs and the wood interior. EPDM tape is ideal for this.
Thanks for the tip. I had to go look to see what you were referring to, and that is beetle kill pine / blue stain pine which has "natural" dark streaks. thankfully not moisture in this case since its a sliding door :) but i'll keep that in mind.
As for power, i would allow for expansion even if you must have two charge controllers. Power may drop instead of increase with better AC units and refrigerators using less power. I dont plan on moving my build after delivery. Its going to be my winter home for a few months out of the year. I will use more insulation like you said more is better. Thanks this is good what you said. 73
Great information and channel. We are looking at building out a beach getaway trailer camper for the 3 of us. We want to set up the outside like those overland trailers with a beach surfing wrap to promote our daughter's swimming and social media channels. Only issue is we need to keep small for our max towing capacity of 2k lbs with our current vehicle. Good thing is we live in central Florida so 1-2 hours flat driving to the beach.
Thanks Ryan, I thought you may be pulling my leg when you said to build a 3D space but then you said you’d done it yourself, so I’ll think about it properly now. Great video, useful advice. PEACE ;]
Took your advice on the insulation. I went...obscene... R-28 (4 in) Polyiso blems off craigslist. Climate control investment and continued expenses are far more expensive than insulation. This unit is for full time, four season and is more efficient than a modern residential build.
You dont actually flip your axle when doing a axle flip. Most axles are bowed so you cant actually flip them. When you flip a axle all you are doing is moving the axle from above the leaf springs to below the leaf springs. Giving about 4" lift. To do it correctly you do need to have the tie plated welded on the axle. Most trailers have Dexter axles and they make a kit to flip axles.
Hey thanks for YOUR tips Ryan! I have watched so many videos on conversions and I save videos that I like or screenshot items I want. I have a 8x16 and am currently building it out in Northern IL. Luckily I have a friend with a heated pole barn. He also has every tool known to man AND incredible talent with all of them! I am designing Murphy beds to the sides. One side will work with the bike inside, both when my Harley is out. I am going with a simple composting toilet built from a 5 gallon bucket. I have a electric fake fireplace for heat ($50). My trailer had a Domedic roof ac unit already. My 1st or Maiden Voyage will be Daytona Bike Week. Thanks again, you are an inspiration! R
Thanks for your feedback, and it sounds like you have a great rig going for you. Glad to hear you are keeping things simple and will be hauling your motorcycles like I do. Just people careful at Bike Week. It will probably be a Sturgis-like super-spreader event.
@@solohomesteader - I was at Sturgis for the whole week. The only time people wore masks was when a restaurant required it for entry. So I am not worried one bit. BTW do you know how they determine Super Spreaders? They actually PING all the cellphones in Sturgis. They then PINGED the same phones a week or so later. THEY then blame those people if ANYONE got COVID near those phones! WHO has the authority to do that???? And I doubt that's a proper way to do that. I tested after and was negative! I've had one nephew (24) get it and a niece (37) get it. Both recovered.
@@roryolson61 glad you didnt get it but going to yet another biker rally seems like pushing your luck. But. Its your life. Personally I'm too much of a loner to want to mingle with a bunch of middle age motorcycle guys like me. I'd rather be in the middle of nowhere completely alone.
@@solohomesteader - I'll be finished with insulation tomorrow. Then it's the build-out kitchen, shower, Murphy beds. I'm going with a composting toilet for starters so I won't have a black water issue.
having heard that you were in the Navy, I had to laugh at the comment "imagine you are a drop of water...." I immediately had a flashback. "imagine you are a drop of water in the ocean. Tell me how you get from the sea water scoop into the #1 evaporator......" lol I'm sure you know what I am referring to.
#8 never tow more then you can stop!! Great video!! Now play this game how many times did he say Cargo Trailer and how many times did he say Cargo Trailer Conversation the winner may get a hat or T shirt. Ha ha ha! Just kidding after having motor homes for over 20 years you are correct in all but one area mocking up, with card board that is a tremendous amount of work and if you need that much help you probably should not be building a cargo trailer conversation. Oh shucks I said it again!!! Again great video lots of good information, thanks!!
Agreed, I will be doing that to my trailer this spring/summer. I have seen some people who attach 2 or 3 inch foam board to the bottom. And of course there's spray foam which costs way more. R
Agree, although lots of people say floor insulation (spray foam too) can and will trap water and start rusting your steel floor beams. Not sure if thats true but since road water will splash up, if the bottom isnt well sealed, then it makes sense. So do your research.
High density Spray foam from home insulation companies would be the cheapest. Used to be $5.00 / sq.ft. minimum change was $800.00 if you drove it to their yard. Completely seals off the frame. And no vapor barriers required. +/- R20. Using 1" SM styrofoam R5 .
you are so right on no.7 no need to go 70mph whats the hurry your towing your house and most possible the only place left in this world for ya people need to slow down..
Thanks for watching! I didn't remove my screws but since my trailer is wrapped, there's some vinyl behind them, I think that helps keep a seal. I did go around and tighten them all.
When I stripped all the ply off the inside I noticed water stains near where the aluminum skin was over lapped. I painted all the studs and sealed the backsides of those seams with aluminum tape. That shit sticks really good. I also used Flex Seal spray in some spots. I will be resealing the roof after my Daytona Beach trip. I think it's just too cold even in this heated (60F) shop here in Northern IL. The first trip will be my Shakedown Cruise! Rosko
A lot a great advice, thank you! My husband is in a mobility scooter to get around so I need a whole different system just to charge it. Great video. Thanks again and enjoy ! Life is but a moment, make the most of it!
Lots of opinion, not a lot of facts. I don't need a power analysis, 200 watts solar is enough. Your genny matches your air conditioner- simple. (if you really want air. I do not.) I can understand what size trailer to start with. It is not hard to get floor plans right when you sketch out details. 1000 nights? Most people would be lucky if they use it 300 nights over 20 years. The two trailers I've had have been water tight, solid. Never a bit of moisture inside. Add-ons, windows, air cond., use the right sealant, follow directions, should not be any leaks for a very long time. Yes, sway can get you in trouble. So stop at a truck stop and get weighed. Each axle. Glad you made the point about speed, both for safety, and fuel economy. You talk about changing trailer height- many utility trailers use torsion springs, instead of leaf. You are right, those changes should not be undertaken lightly.
Appreciate your comments, but you criticized me for "not alot of facts" and then you turned around and pooped on the idea of ascertaining the facts by doing a power analysis. Which is it? Pick one. Regardless... 200 watts will not meet most people's needs. Glad it works for you but people should proceed based on analysis and facts, not speculation unless they have experience. Glad you agree on some of my other points. :)
I like your foot pump. You just gave me an idea where to use my pitcher pump. It may be too large for some but i like the color its green most are bare metal or red. They make water faucets that look like pitcher pumps but i will have one. 73
@@solohomesteader yeah I have to find leather diaphragm or what ever you call it. The pump is very old I took it out of our farm house basement before we sold the property back in 76. The old rusty well was still working but cullegen didn't have a solution to the stinky well they told my mom drill a new well and then call us. Well there was no hey cullegen man the water was good a little hard at some times we must of had three different flows to the well at 103 feet deep and 60 feet of 8 inch casing there was 43 feet of possibilities. Well that's all history now. Thanks again for a valuable video. 73
Where on planet earth do I find a roof A/C unit for $350, the lowest I've been able to find anywhere was $1150 for a rebuilt unit (13,500 BTU), I'd prefer a mini-split at $420 installed and 0n 600 watt solar, I be snug as a bug
You can go back and add insulation. It's called spray foam insulation. Just saying, if you decide to after the fact there is still ways to get the job done.
Your videos are always extremely informative and well presented.. stop worrying about changing your background! We are looking at you and paying attention to what you are saying not the environment around you🙂
I can’t agree with you on the weight distributing hitch. One will not stop a tail heavy trailer from wagging. You can’t just put that water tank anywhere, or do the majority of your build in the back. I have a lot of experience towing trailers, and I have a license to drive tractor trailers. I assure your audience that the distribution of the build must be considered. The best way to deal with a sway situation is to take your foot off the gas pedal, and if you have an electric brake controller slightly activate the trailer brakes manually so that the trailer is slowing the tow vehicle. If that’s not possible try to stay off of the brakes and let the combination vehicle slow on it’s own. If the trailer ever oscillates once, you can be sure that it will do it again under the right conditions, and you have a very dangerous situation that must be corrected. The axle might even be too far forward. There is a point where an RV might be a better choice, and even some of those are never balanced correctly. Sway will always be a function of axle placement and or load distribution. This is not to say that a proper hitch isn’t wise, but even a weight distribution hitch with sway control can only do so much. An oscillating trailer is not the fault of the hitch.
Good info! Weight distribution in general is critical as you say, but I also think a weight distro hitch adds extra safety, and if it has anti-sway, then all the better!
Tires and bearings need regular maintenance. Speed kills- most states have speed limits for trailers being towed- here in NM, it's max speed 65. Don't exceed the speed limit of the tires. that's asking for a blowout.
Big truck & cargo trailer :-) If the engine on the box truck poops, it’s far easier to replace a tow vehicle than it is your entire home ! Now I say this having thought through it all very thoroughly, as I was initially wanting a box truck myself !
Imo a van and trailer would be even better because it provides two dwellings in the event the one has to be put in a shop for repairs. We all know paying for repairs and even the cheapest motel room daily can chew up one's reserve money quick. I'd also rather use trailer space for tools over anything else to make as minor repairs and maintenance myself especially if long term boondocking in this current economic state.
I don't see the coleman A/C unit in your gear list. Not to necro-comment, but what's the A/C unit? Or generally, recommendations for trailer related AC units.
All trailers are probably actually "UNDERSIZED", afterall, it's a TRAILER, and chances are you probably won't squeeze that JACUZZI in no matter how much effort you put into it. I have a 5X10 V-nose, and it's too small because I want to use it as a toy-hauler yet it's also too big since I tow it with my jeep but it's my HAPPY MEDIUM and actually pulls great at unsafe speeds.
You NEED to add a second latch to your side door so that you can’t be locked into your trailer by someone from the outside or you will be in serious trouble. Buy a second outside latch to disable the locking mechanism and then lock the door from the inside once you’re in. That’s the 1st thing I did
Since retiring 16 months ago I've been living nomadically in my single axle 6x14, 6' interior height cargo trailer conversion that I pull with a Nissan Pathfinder. My experience has taught me differently on a few things that you cover. I think most of these might be because my trailer is relatively small and simple. My trailer weighs about 3500 lbs. I've logged about 13k miles pulling it. I asked several pros about sway bars and got several opinions. In the end I decided to go without them since they add weight and cost. The only issues I've had are with high winds (the pro I talked to who seemed most knowledgeable said sway bars really wouldn't help much with high winds), so I don't travel when they're in the forecast. I've never had a problem with big rigs flying by causing me to feel like I might lose control. Again, it may be the smaller rig, but I use a standard hitch and haven't had any problems. I've never been a fan of AC. I don't have it in my trailer and don't miss it. I have a ramp style rear door that I use as a deck. On hot days I open the back and it's amazing how the breeze flows through and keeps it comfortable. Since my roof is one solid sheet, I didn't want to cut into it as it could become a source of leaks in the future. While I've only camped in freezing temps a handful of nights or so, I don't have insulation in the floor and don't need it. Maybe it's because after 30 winters in a big old Wisconsin farm house, I'm used to it, but I think it's more because heat rises, and unless you're heating the floor itself I don't think the floor insulation does much (Waterproofing the underside to protect the plywood is important though.). I used 1.5' foam on the walls and 2' on the ceiling. Just a candle can raise the inside temp a few degrees! Lastly, you suggest going bigger, saying that 9 out of 10 who buy the wrong size buy too small. Maybe it's because I'm a full-timer and most of your audience seem to be vacationers, but I've seen more people downsize on their second rig than upsize. While you've got lots of great advice and info for the more luxury-minded (than me) camper, my advice to anyone who wants to keep it simple is... keep it simple! My holding tanks will never leak because I don't have them. And I never have to go hunting for a dump station. My grey water tank is a half gallon jug. I carry 4 five gallon water bottles with me and can stay out for about three weeks. I power my 32"TV, Dometic fridge and everything else with 2 small solar generators totaling less than 1500W (Power audit? What's that?). Heat takes lots of electric, so I heat and cook with LP. Reheating coffee takes a few seconds longer without a microwave, and stove-top toast is just as tasty. I'm not really disagreeing with anything you've said, mind you. It's just amazing to me how different our experiences have been because of our very different trailers! In the end, being happy in your rig is what counts. Hey,I've got my flat screen, my recliner, and my 6'x3' picture window. I'm happy! (And even more long-winded than you it seems! ;) God bless!
Simple is better but it is often over looked! If it is even considered at all!
Great feedback and info Jason. Thanks for sharing and watching
I like you comments and approach, I’m all about simple and from WI too
You seem like a cool guy to hang out with!
A guy up in Maine calls it;
' Simple Elegance'. You're correct as many people from this Great Continental Country travel around different people reguire different things. I'm a Great-grandfather from a farm in the mountains of Colorado... My Wife grew up on the Island of Grenada 🇬🇩. So we're going to have intense fellowship over the thermostat.
Mistake number seven, I really appreciate your attention and devotion to the safety of towing. That’s a really powerful place to be for a moment. I cannot overstate how important your trailer safety towing wise is. As a former OTR truck driver, the number of four wheeled vehicles towing trailers making very poor decisions was phenomenal. Yes please educate yourselves. An important place as well, is the engineer your load distribution. Keep in mind what your building needs to be in basic compliance the physics of something being in motion. Load distribution of your trailer, as well as a properly powered tow vehicle, combined with DOT approved braking systems, AND, the anti-sway/load distribution hitch. There is no substitution for proper weight distribution.
Preach! :)
I've experienced sway on two occasions, both times were due to improper weight distribution. The first time was early in my trailer towing experience, I had loaded the trailer with rock, loaded evenly front to back. Easily fixed by shifting some rocks from the back to the front. The second time was with a trailer that has little tongue weight of its own. The trailer was only partially loaded, with only the largest item tied down in the front of the trailer. The rest of the load was small boxes that I couldn't tie down, some of these slid to the rear of the trailer, due to the roughness of the road. This was fixed by moving them forward and blocking them in as well as I could.
So true! I think it is crazy that weight distribution and anti-sway systems are really not mentioned with most videos. Luckily I was recommended trailer crashes via UA-cam recommended and found anti-sway systems and things to avoid when building.
What about automatic sway detection with braking systems? There is one by Tuscon sway control system.
Lol, a trucker talking about four wheeled vehicles making poor decisions 🤣 I run between Oklahoma and California monthly pulling a 16' cargo and cannot count how many times a careless or dgaf trucker has cut me off just because he didn't want to hit his brakes.
_From my own custom build, I agree with your assessment. But, would like to add on top some of your points. When it comes to A/C, if it is over 15 feet long and just go with a mini-split 115v if you have the room. I live out in the hot desert area where it can reach up to 118˚. I tried a couple of different AC units and burned them up from working them too hard; just get it down to 84˚. Thank goodness they were ones that I had from ex-customers builds. With the mini-split, I can keep it 78˚ all day long and use about 700 w to 875 watts when doing it. What really helps is the insulation of the whole thing, essential, on top of that use Henry Elastometric roof sealant [ white ] that alone cut the hot heat from the roof down to about 85˚ to 89˚ to the touch._
_Your right error on the bigger side, especially on bad days you need the room for whatever. Then for the heat, of course, you have the mini-split, but you should really think about a 5Kw diesel heater for 15 feet and over; 2Kw or 3Kw for under 15 feet. Then again, try to understand where you're going to travel and go straight to a 5Kw diesel heater. They're safe and dry heat. I install them, and if people have any questions, please ask. Whatever you do, don't get into the hype about the other brands. Here the secret they ALL are made in China and use 85% of the same parts. Most of the problems are because of errors in the installments of the heaters. For the mock-up, I used cardboard boxes as the best it gives you a true 3D and space. Agree 100%_
Thanks for your tips and taking the time to write it up! I always hear good things about mini split AC's. Maybe on my next build. I did do the elastomeric roof, and 75% of my roof is covered in solar panels, so we'll see how I do in extreme heat environs. Regarding Diesel heaters, I dont trust the chinese diesels. Not yet anyway. The reviews just show them as very cheaply made, and considering the potential for combustion / explosion, I'm not willing to risk it. Now if there was a more expensive, quality, Made in the USA option, even at double the price, I would probably go that route. But my plan is to locate myself outside of temperature extremes and go to wherever its mild and pleasant! :)
@@solohomesteader thanks for the reply. On a side note; I’ve had my diesel heater for three years, and they have been around for decades, plus being use has a preheat for coolant in all kinds of cars around the world.
The diesel heat is what a lot of trucks use for 10-12 years that’s the way that I’ll go
I was looking at trying to instal A EG4 3k wat inverter with a 48v 100Ah battery my need are to install a 9000 btu mini split w/ heat .. i need to run the a.c for the better portion of the day & night .. also run a fridge & occasional microwave with 4 outlets and 4 small puck lights in the ceiling can you offer me any insight on a pre assembled inverter package thats simple to put together i have some knowledge of how to build but the electrical engineering part of this stumps me.
Another possible “tip” is typically single axle trailers don’t have brakes. I was told unless you specifically ask for a brake axle on 12’ and under you don’t get one. Normally tandem axle trailers have at least once braking axle. Something the average person might not realize and once you add in all your build you’re going to want that brake. Just a thought.
They sell brake kits with hubs and they can be easily installed there are many UA-cam videos showing how. Today an electronic brake controller is also pretty straightforward and in many cases the manufacturer offers a T so you need not even splice wires.
Most of the advice is spot on.
I use a Honda EU 2000 generator and a 500 watt 5000 BTU window air conditioner for my van in the Tucson Arizona summer and in my bed room in Yuma.
Insulation is essential. Probably the biggest reason why people fail at living in the desert summer heat.
The biggest mistake I can see you made is using to much wood, making the trailer heavy. Think airplane construction use light weight material.
I tend to camp out in the trailer like a backpacker on a through hike. Then slowly do simple improvements. Occam was a smart dude. It is also known as the "KISS" principal, Keep it simple stupid.
Poring water from a jug is the simplest water system. People have been doing it since the beginning of mankind. I keep water in gallon jugs that I fill up when doing laundry.
You are right - Margot is heavy! But I know woodworking, so.. wood is my goto material.
Ryan my Bride of 52 yrs when this spring to BBNP for first real adventure in our 12x7x7 cargo trailer. Honestly I think it was the best road trip we had ever made in our lives. We live in central Va. till November and the we use out trailer to travel to McAllen Tx. For the winter where we stay for the winter months. Not in our cargo trailer. But when we left the REO GRANDE VALLEY. On March 16 /23 we spent 5 days in Terlingua Texas. We just amazed at the beauty of that area. We spent 23 days out before arriving home in central Va. and did 3200 miles. So we know what we liked and didn’t like about our conversation. We pretty much did everything you suggested. We watched your video in early 22 thank you for opening my eyes. The only thing I regret on is when we ordered our trailer custom 0:03 from factory was not getting a straight axle instead of a torsion axle. It really sets to low I think now. And I tow with a 2016 tundra supper crew plenty of power. Great video. Thanks. Oh by the way I put 2” insulation under the floor and sealed all the cracks and it made a great difference in temp. Especially on the those cold spring night on the way home.
Sounds like a great trip! Glad my videos were helpful in your process. Have fun!
Regarding insulation - I always recommend getting some 1/2" plywood straps and gluing them along the metal studs before ininsulation. Give yourself that extra 1/2" for a total of 1.5" insulation. 50% more for minimum work is always worth the investment.
Good idea, crazy. Even better is to get 1/4" fan-fold insulation to cover both the 1" insulation and the metal frame. That eliminates the gaps in the insulating envelope while taking up less precious floor space and headroom.
Yes, and im sure it helps prevent thermal bridging and condensation issues too. Great idea.
I’ll use the spray foam insulation seals all the cracks. A bit $$$ but worth it
Great information to consider before building. I think your 3 best are. Layout your floor plan. Hitch system and use a professional for advice where needed. Interestingly I've built corporate jet interiors owned multiple large boats and 4 rv trailers and its still taking me 3 months to figure exactly how I want my conversion. The acronym of K.I.S.S. is helpful when planning. Thanks for sharing.
Good video
1) Size: Be clear about how you intend to use the trailer. I went with a 6x12 trailer for a family of four because we want something nimble in town and able to go down some dirt roads and boondocking and poking around in more remote areas. Increases in size make moving more difficult. Reductions and size limits space and capacity. Understand your tradeoffs.
If we were plan on spending most of our time at improved campgrounds and staying put longer, a larger trailer would be better.
2) Insulation: I agree. With no insulation or inadequate insulation, you will be less comfortable and your heating and cooling needs are much more difficult to manage. Needing to run your AC or heat continuously can be very noisy and drive up other expenses (generator, solar, batteries, heating fuel....)
3) Climate control (AC and heat): Absolutely correct!!! Being continuously hot and sweaty or cold is a miserable experience. For me, the trailer is a haven to use rest and be comfortable after having enough of the outdoors or when the weather goes bad.
4) Power / electricity: I agree. Knowing your power consumption and power supplies is important for executing a plan.
5, 6 and 7): Agree. For towing, stay well below the rated capacity of your tow vehicle if you plan on moving the trailer frequently or long distances. It is no fun driving a maxed out tow vehicle because there is very little margin for errors (turning, breaking, and accelerating). Also, you will wear out the tow vehicle much more quickly.
Bonuses also agree
Thank-you for the thought provocation. I haven't purchased a trailer, yet, so I haven't made any irreversible actions. Nicely done.
I bought a CT from a guy, everything he told me was a lie. Rust, bad wheels & tires, No real insulation and what there was, it was all molded, no waterproofing, it was made so badly that on a few occasions I’ve considered leaving it at the landfill! I ended up gutting the entire trailer and started from scratch. I’m stuck now with the electrical...but I have learned not to trust sellers.
Wow, lesson learned the hard way, eh? Good luck on your project! Hope my video helped!
4 years full time in a cargo trailer. Thanks for stressing the importance of a proper wt. distribution and sway control. Mine saved my life!
As for air conditioning and insulation: I have 2" of insulation on the ceiling, a 1" rubber floor, none in the walls, and no AC. I camp in the snowy mountains and the blistering desert. No problem. And, if I do have a problem, I also have a key to turn on the engine and move to a different climate. 💜
Wow, thats awesome. Congrats on 4 years and being a hardy person.
Good tips for some but I got to disagree somewhat. I'd say think about where you are going, when and what you will do, the bigger the trailer, the less you'll love pulling it, less love means less use. Has to be big enough but don't just go bigger for the sake of big. A ceiling AC RV unit may not even run a 1000 days, they are horrible and expensive. A window unit is the way to go, they work, they are cheap, if it breaks toss it and get another one, easy. Window units do make the build harder making it look better but not that big a deal. Sealing up, easily said, hard to do, but the best way is to wrap it on the outside, rino cover, canvas or vinal wrap, otherwise it's a constant issue, just check annually. Towing? The bigger the trailer the more it costs to tweek the towing gear, small is simple. Never flip an axel, it changes the mount positions and that is no0t good. Change the springs and mounts. Drains, use a rubber hose from an auto supply, glue and clamp, put a bucket underneath, why tow gray water, dump it properly. Toilet, use a bucket and trash bag type, simple, clean, no black water, no crapy hose. Anyway, great info, thanks...... :)
I actually find bigger trailers earlier to pull, although somewhat harder on the truck. But the longer, the easier to back up and the less sway it actually develops. I also disagree with you axel flip. My truck is too tall for my trailer now, so when I get a chance I'm flipping the axel. I've done it before on my wood hauling trailer. Have me 4" if lift, which allowed me larger types and more ground clearance. I did the spring at the same time and added another 5k total (2500 on each side). That trailer tracks perfect and rides extremely nice for a 4×8 trailer. I'm working on a leather studio now with me new trailer. It will get the axels flipped. The ground clearance absolutely sucks and I can't stand such small tires. Plus I want to pull it flat without having to have a huge drop in my hitch.
Trailer Sway, Tongue Weight is KEY... If you put to much weight behind the axle or On the axle you can build in trailer sway. Just as too much tongue weight can tax the tow vehicle. Not enough tongue weight can make your trailer react to wind easily.
traveling with low water or full water can change the way the trailer pulls. backing in your SXS will put the engine over the axles instead of close to the rear doors. moving weight to the front of the trailer just for traveling will help also
Tongue weight should be at least 10 to 15% of your trailers weight. Any less and she'll wag the dog, which is Deadly.
on my equipment trailers, having the skid steer to far back on the trailer causes sway. Simply moving it forward a foot or two and you can safely run the speed limit just as to much tongue weight takes weight off the steering axle of the tow vehicle.
If your trailer is finished you can still move weight around for traveling.
No such thing as to big. This guy is smart about this. Honestly this guy is the first video I have seen about this list . Thank you sir . I would have mine sprayed with undercoating for protection.
Great vid... Just like youtubers most financial experts, are not experts... they sell products that make them a profit... My first was in 1980, E-150 conversion... Toilet: 5 gal bucket, plastic shopping bags, and a pool noodle (figure it out), knot off each bag when done, maybe double bag it. Use a pee jar or several (obviously with sealable lids) a pee funnel for the gals, and a piece of hose... all stores in the bucket with a lid... for hot water; (I have 2) 4" PVC pipes mounted to the roof racks, 1 directly to the outside shower, the other is plumbed in (I also have them connected to each other with a valve between) you can shut one off and fill the other... I have a Schrader valve and use a hand pump to charge the system... and / or open the fill valve for gravity fed... I put a 10' length of hose on my drain to get the water away... happy trails...
Thanks for the tips Ryan! Get advice about hitches for your vehicle and trailer, my 14 footer definitely doesn't need WDH with an F-150 that has a tow package. Never flip a drop axel, use a heavier helper spring. Roof A/C is expensive, a Frigidaire 5000 btu Eco will run off of 1200 watts of solar. Get a Bluetti 2000 watt solar generator, use the KISS method.
Insulation-having been in the Army staying in a large PVC coated heavy canvas tent, we heated it to 75 degrees easily with a diesel heater when it was 25/30 below zero at Ft. Drum and to 70 degrees at Ft. Sam Houston in 112 degree heat, with a 15,000 A/C unit, I can tell you insulation makes any space more efficient, however a tent isn't an RV. Using heavy canvas inside a cargo trailer can keep you warm or cool. Air is the insulator, foam simply traps air, gluing foam to a metal surface cuts the R value in half in high temps. Point is, a large A/C can cool an uninsulated cargo trailer, you can certainly heat without insulating, air flow controls moisture with venting. A garden shade cloth material can cover your trailer in the heat, shade makes a big difference.
⭐THANK YOU THANK YOU ⭐
I've been watching dozens of videos for years and collecting information to do the right thing.
You're very thoughtful and patient. Great 👍😎 video. I wish You much success. Just a couple of thoughts 🤔:
a. Get a fuzzy cover for your clip mic.
b. Get the bigger trailer 👍
try to put the LEAST in it.
c. Wear a brighter colored Tshirt.
especially inside (less pale).
d. Great way to find water ways or
🪲🐛 holes is at night with
a bright flashlight 🔦.
e. Try wearing different HATS for different problems.... ask local companies if you could wear their hats in your videos. Local Plumbing Co. for water issues or Local hardware store for building supply problems. You could stay put and then say you just wear a LOTTA' HATS... 🧑🍳👷🧑🔧
f. for the hitch thing would be good to see a small white board. You do SUCH A GREAT JOB explaining but it's also great to see a picture of that.
LASTLY.... there were several things I definitely learned from this video.
1) the 'Thousand' idea... That's GOLD!! Puts things in perspective.
2) the cardboard boxes and furniture. I can picture it but my wife would never see it without the fake furniture. LASTLY I appreciate your passion for 🦺 SAFETY 🦺!! I was following an old guy moving into his daughter's house in another state. He wasn't balanced right or have the correct the correct hitch height and it started to 'fish' really bad. He lost control because he slammed on the brakes with a small trailer that wasn't hooked up with it's own. They broke apart and I turned sideways to stop traffic. The trailer was down the highway about a thousand feet and his old truck was pretty messed up. I stayed until all his tools and personal items were off the road. Luckily he wasn't hurt and his cat was still buckled into the carrier. Thank you again for the comprehensive video..... (Long ... But Good)
Best insulation is Lizard Skin Thermal Ceramic coating plus rigid foam. No one seems to be doing this except one sprinter conversion van on all the internet. Maybe I just think way way super deep into things.
I bought lizard skin last summer, but have yet to apply it (life halted the project for a time, but I’m gearing up again !)
@@gameandskate can't wait to see another vid. Great content.
Great video - thanks for posting this. My favorite is actually the simplest - don't go over 60Mph! So many safety results from this one piece of advice alone, and fuel savings, and enjoying the drive....etc etc. Excellent!
Great tip! I usually do about 63 and let off the gas anytime I see a dip or bump or bad road conditions. Driving too fast is a good way to ruin your rig.
"Flipping the axles" is a term I really hate, because it is confusing at best. You don't actually flip the axle over, but you flip them from over the springs, to under. That gives you approximate 5 inches of lift, depending on axle diameter, and thickness of the spring stack. Some people do flip the axles over, which is dumb, and dangerous, especially if the axles are bent for camber. With a drop axle, this is way to much lift for safety, also., like you mentioned, the brakes are not in the correct direction.
I got a fantastic deal on my cargo trailer because a tree branch went through the roof. On various ideas to patch it, I ended up putting 4” used roof insulation, which I also installed under the the trailer between the framing. And I can tell you on a 103 degree day in direct sun, the inside is amazingly comfortable before kicking in the a/c. Just an idea , you can not have to much insulation if you can fit it.
agreed! congrats on the score.
Hello Sir . USAF Vet here 1986- 1992 . Bonjour de Nouvelle Orleans .
I would NOT pierce my roof for any reason!
A ceiling fan can be wall mounted with a cowling/fitted awning on the exterior. Cuts down on sunlight coming in as well. And reduces the rain noise, too!!!
In 2018 I bought my 6x12SA trailer with 6' 3" ceiling just for the purpose of hauling motorcycles and using as a garage when at hotels. At the time I only needed a 5x10SA trailer with 5'6" ceiling so I did size up. March of 2020 rolled around and staying at hotels became difficult so I decided I wanted a toy hauler. The RV dealers shut down for a time and when they reopened the prices were dramatically higher, so I decided to turn mine into a rustic toy hauler. I wish I would have traded it for a larger trailer, but I have made it work for me over the past 3.5 years. I have everything I need except running water. Being near the TN, NC, GA mountains most of my camping is at state parks with bath houses. I would do something different if there was public land available.
I did have to add a dehumidifier to keep the humidity at bay.
Most builds I have seen must take into consideration boondock camping. For state parks I have no need for solar, batteries, shower, etc. I have a 5 gallon bucket with a toilet seat lid and cat litter for emergencies as well as wide mouth Gatorade bottles I save to serve the other need.
From an electrical standpoint I put in 30 amp service with two 20 amp circuits. I have a portable AC unit, dehumidifier, dorm cube fridge, microwave, coffee maker, toaster, hot plate (never used), LED lights, and a laptop.
Layout was determined by my motorcycles. I have to stagger the bikes so they take up the majority of the box. All of my kitchen and cabinets are in the V-nose plus 8 inches. My bed is a vertical drawer against the wall that lifts up and folds out.. I sit in an umbrella chair and use a TV tray table for the laptop.
If I have two bikes loaded I do end up carrying a lot of camping supplies in the back of the enclosed truck bed because I am within 50 lbs of my cargo trailer GVWR. I could add a brake kit and up my GVWR another 850 lbs because I would be using the entire capacity of the axles and frame.
Glad you made it work for you. Good job on your build!
Thank you for all the time it took to put this together for us. Appreciated. Peace
Inspired by the teardrops I was looking at a 4x6 "V" nose. I settled on a 5x8 flat nose. I thought about the extra space and how the 5x8 looked less like a coffin inside...
I wanted to buy an island for the kitchen when we moved in. I knew there wasn't a ton of space for the width, so I found a nice square one. The hubby said it wouldn't work. I built it to scale out of cardboard and set it up to show him it would work. It would be a little tight with the refridgerator door open, but otherwise was a perfect fit. I bought the island and we truly can't imagine our kitchen without it. Also, he was super impressed with my cardboard replica.
cardboard models can work wonders!
All pretty much common sense, but the fact that someone who has been thru this more than once (pretty much) is pointing them out shows they are serious needs. I appreciate the information, hope it all keeps working perfect for you Ryan. Safe travels
Thanks Jeremy. Glad you found it helpful.
When deciding what size trailer you need, make sure you have the rig to haul it. If you are trying to pull a 12' trailer that you convert and fill with stuff with a toyota 4runner or some other small SUV, or car, you are going to be in trouble. You will put a lot of stress on your transmission and may even have major issues pulling through the mountains , and even have issues stopping safely.
Absolutely. Although its easier to get a bigger vehicle to pull than it is to get a bigger trailer since vehicles can be "off the shelf" and easily financed, but a custom built trailer is extreme time and effort. Harder to "redo". So if i were going to err on the side of caution, it would be too large of a trailer / too small of a pull vehicle.
I would say know your needs and do what fits you best.
If you are towing with a 4 runner or minivan know your trailer is going to be limited in the size that is appropriate for your tow vehicle.
WEIGHT is your biggest enemy, know your needs again.
A single person can use a camping cot to sleep on, the several drawer plastic drawer units and plastic totes for storage and a several gallon water jug with a battery operated pump for a water supply.
I see so many people putting in wooden plank ceilings, thick planked walls and even going with laminate flooring. building massive bed frames and counter/storage units out of wood/plyboard and all of that weighs a ton.
Put in your foam insulation, lay down vinyl flooring which is easy to clean and a couple of small throw rugs in strategic areas make underfoot areas comfortable and use something like the shower boards (designed for bathroom use and a slick wipeable finish) which are really not that heavy and again easy to clean and wipe down as your main build is done and lightweight.
I bet many of these full build conversions on the smaller sized trailers are actually over the weight limit of the trailers suspension and tire capacities.
A/C a cheaper non digital control 5000btu window unit is cheap, consumes pretty much the least amount of voltage . Not that hard to install and not that heavy and less than $200.
Most rv roof a/c units the metal supports for the roof on most cargo trailers will have to be beefed up structurally to handle the weight of the roof ac and cost up to $2000 or more easily.
Again how you are going to use the trailer will dictate a lot but a single person can easily take a smaller trailer, keep it light and tow with less than a 1/2 truck as the minimum tow vehicle.
Biggest thing is on the smaller sizes make sure you get a tall enough roof height so you can comfortably stand up in it, those folks over 6ft tall the 7' height smaller trailers will be a little harder to find under about 14' in length.
Two other items that will reduce sway is to use a two axle trailer vs a single axle. The other is to make sure that when building your trailer, make sure that 10-15 percent of your trailer GVWR is on your hitch. If the trailer has too much tail weight, it will cause sway on its own at higher traveling speeds.
Before I started researching this stuff, I knew I was going to go big on; insulation, heating / AC, water capacity and power capacity.
5 gallon bucket with a 13 gallon trash bag and a nice wooden toilet seat works perfect. No nasty crap hanging around or smelling. Do your business pull out bag ,throw away. If you're in the woods well, you know what to do .
Agree. People overthink the toilet situation, and dealing with a black water tank seems nasty and people report lots of spills / mishaps. I used sawdust and a bag in a bucket when I was building my tiny house and it worked fine for a few months.
Our toilet system will be the Humanure system by Joseph Jenkins. He wrote the book "The Humanure Handbook". We use that system already at our vacation home that doesn't have a septic system and it works fantastic.😊
They were all good tips and if you have seen a trailer start to sway or worse been the vehicle towing it , it becomes a scary situation and from my experience having your weight poorly distributed in your trailer or caravan is a major cause of these accidents. Braking when your trailer is not pulling straight behind you is a real no no. Like when you have accelerated past another vehicle because you were too impatient to wait and then realize you are driving too fast and touch your brakes before u have straightened up. a recipe for disaster.
Good info
Thank you for addressing issues no one else likes to talk about! Keep up the great job.
Thank you too!
Very well thought out points! I especially like the idea of making 3D mockups of furniture & floor plan. Thanks!
Great video! You have excellent presence and very good pronunciation. People should appreciate how well you said, “cargo camper conversion,” so well, so many times.
I think all of your points are very good. And remember there are a huge amount of new people trying this out who have no idea. Just like you did.
The hardest thing to accomplish is preventing condensation build up. There can be NO air space behind the walls and the best way to prevent it is to spray foam. Bravo on the sway kit and going slow suggestions. Could have added a bit about how important trailer brakes are in those situations.
There are a few trailer towing tutorials on here and I advise looking them up. Have to maintain the tire air pressure at all times. Check often Well that’s it
Thanks Aaron, I appreciate your kind words. And good advice!
I had a brand new 2007 19' Bambi Airstream with an air conditioner and I bet I only used it 5 times in 13 years. and I was camping almost every month on the California desert as well as the mountains. I sold it in 2020 and just last month I bought a 6 x 12 tandem cargo trailer . . . NO air conditioner this time but I will put in a heater as soon as I start freezing :o)
Cali is much easier climate, unless it's "inland empire", in my experience. But TExas, AZ, etc REQUIRE a/c or it feels like an oven. How is the 6x12 working out so far?
Thanks Ryan for putting your tips out there. Welcome to Big D.
You emphasize being prepared to invest in the fundamentals, that will benefit over a long payback period. For me, that means Tip #1 should be "Buy an all-aluminum trailer!". Not only will this avoid the rust issues of steel, but you start with a lower weight.
Related to weight, weigh the empty trailer at a public weighbridge (manufacturers lie!), and measure the tongue weight. A big parcel scale under a jack stand under the hitch will do fine for this. Expect a properly built trailer to have 10% - 15% weight at the hitch.
Now figure out your center of load - i.e where your added weight should balance to also be 10% - 15% on the hitch. This is a line 12.5% of the distance between the axle and the hitch in front of the axle. (For twin axles, measure from half way between.) You can verify you have this right by measuring weight on the hitch while you position a heavy item inside, e.g. a 100lb portable generator positioned on the load line should add 12.5lbs at the hitch.
From here, weigh every single thing you put into your trailer. Keep a spreadsheet, so you know exactly what you have added. Make sure your added weight is evenly distributed in front of and behind your load line, and continually re-measure hitch weight to ensure you are staying within 10% - 15% of total at the hitch Position heavy items like batteries according to how they balance your rig (side to side as well as front to back), so that you can place kitchen etc according to preference.
Heavy items that change weight - think water and gas tanks, fridge and food storage, should be positioned as near the load line as possible, so your trailer balances correctly full or empty.
Building for light weight and ideal balance takes additional thought and effort, but will result in a rig that tows well and safely, without a weight distribution hitch or sway control, and with minimum strain on your tow vehicle.
Have fun out there!
Great feedback. Aluminum is an investment, for sure that can be worth it for most people.
Quick thought about number 8: it may be called an “axle flip kit” but under NO circumstances should anyone at anytime ever actually turn an axle upside down to get extra height because the axle is curved in an arch for weight distribution. If you actually flip an axle you will destroy that axle fast. 👍
A flip kit changes the position of the axel from above the leaf springs to below for extra height or from below to above the springs for a lower stance, not the orientation of the axel.it doesn’t change the distribution, only the height and center of gravity.
Check out my cargo conversion by tapping the green circle. Sorry about the shaking . I didn't put in a shower or toilet, I would rather that space for more use ,so my shower and toilet are simple. Most camp grounds have bathrooms and I kept my camper a little simpler. And I live in Central Florida. Good video. I had 3 months to decide my setup from the ordering day to receiving it. Plus I spent extra money on windows and insulation and finished ceiling and camper style side door. Oh,and as far as a shower you can take one outside when its warm . I bought a pump up jug with a hose and shower head which holds just over a gallon of water .Water is one thing that should be conserved unless readily available.
Another idea. Run a dehumidifier or portable A/C unit in the trailer during construction and at night. This will remove moisture from your breath and dew at night.
yes, good point. That does work!
@@solohomesteader Glad to help. I had always dreamed of converting a full size school bus into a motor home after my kids grew up but being 68 now and having my 11th spine surgery in April, I'm a little past my prime but I live my dreams, by extension, through people like you and others who do their own custom work.
I have the electrical, mechanical and plumbing skills but would have to hire a carpenter, finisher and a new spine before I could even drive it. I used to joke that if you give me a design, I can make anything out of steel. Ask me to make it out of wood and I'll ruin it every time. The welder keeps setting the wood on fire.
I learned how to drive a stick in a 1965 GMC church bus, in the 1970's, back in my 20's and drove heavy equipment for a time before settling down to a forklift in the freezers of a Florida juice plant. Then driving a 27' box truck towing a trailer carrying my van when we moved 1,000 miles north to live in 2001. The company retired me in 1999 after surgery #5.
I have the skills and confidence to do half the build and to pilot it but I literally don't have the spine for it. 😆🤕
you assume that people build a camper trailer for 1.000 uses but I bet, the very most will only use it way less!
Who has the time for that??? People who I know that have a camper will either use it for 5, 10, 20... nights per year, maybe some years not at all.
Or - they are retired and then use it a lot 😂.
As well, for many people it is not more than a trend or temporary philosophy of travelling / camping.
I think people must be true to themselves and run a strategy: either with small effort for small money like it is just a box with rudimental accessories.
Or do it really well and have fun for a long time. MAybe it is not bad to make a simnple version first, test it, see what is good or bad and then decide maybe to keep the existing one or sell it.
Removable "trailer Box" would be super. So you can get a Standard trailer size and maybe sell it afterwards or use it differently.
Hey friend, I’m just now starting to do my research and this video has given me a wealth of information. There’s a ton of valuable information here so thank you. I’m now subscribed.
Glad to hear it!
Sway is a product of poor weight distribution INSIDE the trailer, not the hitch. A much more important consideration than the hitch is how the weight is distributed in the trailer. I see way too many people that put too much weight too far from the axles.
🌸🌸This solo Traveling female thank you very much for this informative video during this journey in purchasing a cargo trailer🌸🌸
Glad it was helpful!
For me the #4 advice was the one i would not have thought about, especially the 3D version. I think that is really worth the time! As for hitches: for heavy trailers the 3P hitch would be an outstanding great investment, it eliminates sway completely! you're conception about "flipping an axle" is wrong. your axle is not going to be upside down, its just going to be under the springs instead of sitting on top of the springs. So its still as sealed as before and water gets in the same way as before.
Thanks for sharing Your insights . DIY comes with the need for serious research and common sense .
You bet!
Excellent information…thank you! Yes, you did a good job of “mixing it up” on the video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I’m just on mistake 1 and it’s great advice already
Around 25 minutes in where you talk about sealing your box the back drop for the video is a wooden wall, looks like pine with a urethane coating maybe? In any case you'll notice black grain, that is an indicator of condensation behind the wood. While you do want to seal the outside it is best to ventilate the walls to the inside and create a thermal break between the metal studs and the wood interior. EPDM tape is ideal for this.
Thanks for the tip. I had to go look to see what you were referring to, and that is beetle kill pine / blue stain pine which has "natural" dark streaks. thankfully not moisture in this case since its a sliding door :) but i'll keep that in mind.
As for power, i would allow for expansion even if you must have two charge controllers. Power may drop instead of increase with better AC units and refrigerators using less power. I dont plan on moving my build after delivery. Its going to be my winter home for a few months out of the year. I will use more insulation like you said more is better. Thanks this is good what you said. 73
Glad it was helpful!
Great information and channel. We are looking at building out a beach getaway trailer camper for the 3 of us. We want to set up the outside like those overland trailers with a beach surfing wrap to promote our daughter's swimming and social media channels. Only issue is we need to keep small for our max towing capacity of 2k lbs with our current vehicle. Good thing is we live in central Florida so 1-2 hours flat driving to the beach.
Well done 🎉
Thank you!
Thanks Ryan, I thought you may be pulling my leg when you said to build a 3D space but then you said you’d done it yourself, so I’ll think about it properly now. Great video, useful advice. PEACE ;]
I hope it was a useful tip for you. :)
Nicely done. Thorough explanations that I can and will put to use. Also, good speaking skills.
Glad it was helpful!
Consider also cost variance for r value. Meaning better r value more economical to heat or cool...
yes, good point.
Took your advice on the insulation. I went...obscene...
R-28 (4 in) Polyiso blems off craigslist. Climate control investment and continued expenses are far more expensive than insulation.
This unit is for full time, four season and is more efficient than a modern residential build.
Yep, the 4" thick, used polyiso sheets are a good deal!
You dont actually flip your axle when doing a axle flip. Most axles are bowed so you cant actually flip them. When you flip a axle all you are doing is moving the axle from above the leaf springs to below the leaf springs. Giving about 4" lift. To do it correctly you do need to have the tie plated welded on the axle. Most trailers have Dexter axles and they make a kit to flip axles.
Very solid advise and a great presentation. Well done Sir.
Thank you kindly!
Hey thanks for YOUR tips Ryan! I have watched so many videos on conversions and I save videos that I like or screenshot items I want. I have a 8x16 and am currently building it out in Northern IL. Luckily I have a friend with a heated pole barn. He also has every tool known to man AND incredible talent with all of them! I am designing Murphy beds to the sides. One side will work with the bike inside, both when my Harley is out. I am going with a simple composting toilet built from a 5 gallon bucket. I have a electric fake fireplace for heat ($50). My trailer had a Domedic roof ac unit already. My 1st or Maiden Voyage will be Daytona Bike Week. Thanks again, you are an inspiration! R
Thanks for your feedback, and it sounds like you have a great rig going for you. Glad to hear you are keeping things simple and will be hauling your motorcycles like I do.
Just people careful at Bike Week. It will probably be a Sturgis-like super-spreader event.
@@solohomesteader - I was at Sturgis for the whole week. The only time people wore masks was when a restaurant required it for entry. So I am not worried one bit. BTW do you know how they determine Super Spreaders? They actually PING all the cellphones in Sturgis. They then PINGED the same phones a week or so later. THEY then blame those people if ANYONE got COVID near those phones! WHO has the authority to do that???? And I doubt that's a proper way to do that. I tested after and was negative! I've had one nephew (24) get it and a niece (37) get it. Both recovered.
@@roryolson61 glad you didnt get it but going to yet another biker rally seems like pushing your luck. But. Its your life. Personally I'm too much of a loner to want to mingle with a bunch of middle age motorcycle guys like me. I'd rather be in the middle of nowhere completely alone.
@@solohomesteader - I will not live my life in fear. BTW, the recovery rate is north of 99%. After Daytona I may ride to Key West!
@@solohomesteader - I'll be finished with insulation tomorrow. Then it's the build-out kitchen, shower, Murphy beds. I'm going with a composting toilet for starters so I won't have a black water issue.
having heard that you were in the Navy, I had to laugh at the comment "imagine you are a drop of water...." I immediately had a flashback. "imagine you are a drop of water in the ocean. Tell me how you get from the sea water scoop into the #1 evaporator......" lol I'm sure you know what I am referring to.
I hated that checkout.
#8 never tow more then you can stop!! Great video!! Now play this game how many times did he say Cargo Trailer and how many times did he say Cargo Trailer Conversation the winner may get a hat or T shirt.
Ha ha ha!
Just kidding after having motor homes for over 20 years you are correct in all but one area mocking up, with card board that is a tremendous amount of work and if you need that much help you probably should not be building a cargo trailer conversation. Oh shucks I said it again!!!
Again great video lots of good information, thanks!!
totally agree! oh and "CARGO TRAILER CONVERSION!"
The floor is just as important for insulation as the walls and ceiling.
Agreed, I will be doing that to my trailer this spring/summer. I have seen some people who attach 2 or 3 inch foam board to the bottom. And of course there's spray foam which costs way more. R
Agree, although lots of people say floor insulation (spray foam too) can and will trap water and start rusting your steel floor beams. Not sure if thats true but since road water will splash up, if the bottom isnt well sealed, then it makes sense. So do your research.
High density Spray foam from home insulation companies would be the cheapest. Used to be $5.00 / sq.ft. minimum change was $800.00 if you drove it to their yard. Completely seals off the frame. And no vapor barriers required. +/- R20. Using 1" SM styrofoam R5 .
Tha k you for this! So helpful as I am just about to start a build on my 5by8 cargo trailer conversion
Good luck with your build. And glad the video was helpful for you.
you are so right on no.7 no need to go 70mph whats the hurry your towing your house and most possible the only place left in this world for ya people need to slow down..
Great video...I pulled all the screws out of my seams and silicone them up but failed to do anything to the back ramp and lights thanks for the tip!!
Thanks for watching! I didn't remove my screws but since my trailer is wrapped, there's some vinyl behind them, I think that helps keep a seal. I did go around and tighten them all.
When I stripped all the ply off the inside I noticed water stains near where the aluminum skin was over lapped. I painted all the studs and sealed the backsides of those seams with aluminum tape. That shit sticks really good. I also used Flex Seal spray in some spots. I will be resealing the roof after my Daytona Beach trip. I think it's just too cold even in this heated (60F) shop here in Northern IL. The first trip will be my Shakedown Cruise! Rosko
Great advice for attention to detail. Almost like you spoke from personal experience lol
Glad you enjoyed it!
I planned on spending $1000 for ac unit. 2-4 hours of ac is terrible for florida
Tip #11 window placement... make sure your window install is where you need it for the next part of your build.
This is the best and most helpful video I’ve found in my research so far. I’m so happy I found you! Thank you!! ❤️🥰
Very much appreciated, I'm glad you enjoyed it.
I’m just going to buy a WeeRoll cargo trailer, that way I don’t have to worry about mistakes.
Good choice
Thank you for mentioning this company. I had not heard of them before, and it looks like they build a solid product.
🤔 CAD = Cardboard Aided Design. 👍
Wow! So glad I found this. Thanks for the great advice…
You are so welcome!
A lot a great advice, thank you! My husband is in a mobility scooter to get around so I need a whole different system just to charge it. Great video. Thanks again and enjoy ! Life is but a moment, make the most of it!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the little bars the delineate the tips. It takes a very windy video down to about 5 minutes.
Lots of opinion, not a lot of facts. I don't need a power analysis, 200 watts solar is enough. Your genny matches your air conditioner- simple. (if you really want air. I do not.) I can understand what size trailer to start with. It is not hard to get floor plans right when you sketch out details. 1000 nights? Most people would be lucky if they use it 300 nights over 20 years. The two trailers I've had have been water tight, solid. Never a bit of moisture inside. Add-ons, windows, air cond., use the right sealant, follow directions, should not be any leaks for a very long time. Yes, sway can get you in trouble. So stop at a truck stop and get weighed. Each axle. Glad you made the point about speed, both for safety, and fuel economy. You talk about changing trailer height- many utility trailers use torsion springs, instead of leaf. You are right, those changes should not be undertaken lightly.
Appreciate your comments, but you criticized me for "not alot of facts" and then you turned around and pooped on the idea of ascertaining the facts by doing a power analysis. Which is it? Pick one.
Regardless... 200 watts will not meet most people's needs. Glad it works for you but people should proceed based on analysis and facts, not speculation unless they have experience. Glad you agree on some of my other points. :)
I like your foot pump. You just gave me an idea where to use my pitcher pump. It may be too large for some but i like the color its green most are bare metal or red. They make water faucets that look like pitcher pumps but i will have one. 73
love those old style pitcher pumps!
@@solohomesteader yeah I have to find leather diaphragm or what ever you call it. The pump is very old I took it out of our farm house basement before we sold the property back in 76. The old rusty well was still working but cullegen didn't have a solution to the stinky well they told my mom drill a new well and then call us. Well there was no hey cullegen man the water was good a little hard at some times we must of had three different flows to the well at 103 feet deep and 60 feet of 8 inch casing there was 43 feet of possibilities. Well that's all history now. Thanks again for a valuable video. 73
Excellent video!
Thank you! Cheers!
Where on planet earth do I find a roof A/C unit for $350, the lowest I've been able to find anywhere was $1150 for a rebuilt unit (13,500 BTU), I'd prefer a mini-split at $420 installed and 0n 600 watt solar, I be snug as a bug
Most tow vehicles are not front wheel drive
You can go back and add insulation. It's called spray foam insulation. Just saying, if you decide to after the fact there is still ways to get the job done.
Good point!
Your videos are always extremely informative and well presented.. stop worrying about changing your background! We are looking at you and paying attention to what you are saying not the environment around you🙂
I can’t agree with you on the weight distributing hitch. One will not stop a tail heavy trailer from wagging. You can’t just put that water tank anywhere, or do the majority of your build in the back. I have a lot of experience towing trailers, and I have a license to drive tractor trailers. I assure your audience that the distribution of the build must be considered. The best way to deal with a sway situation is to take your foot off the gas pedal, and if you have an electric brake controller slightly activate the trailer brakes manually so that the trailer is slowing the tow vehicle. If that’s not possible try to stay off of the brakes and let the combination vehicle slow on it’s own. If the trailer ever oscillates once, you can be sure that it will do it again under the right conditions, and you have a very dangerous situation that must be corrected. The axle might even be too far forward.
There is a point where an RV might be a better choice, and even some of those are never balanced correctly. Sway will always be a function of axle placement and or load distribution. This is not to say that a proper hitch isn’t wise, but even a weight distribution hitch with sway control can only do so much. An oscillating trailer is not the fault of the hitch.
Good info! Weight distribution in general is critical as you say, but I also think a weight distro hitch adds extra safety, and if it has anti-sway, then all the better!
Excellent tips and well explained
Glad it was helpful!
a window ac is easy to add at anytime....
This is true. Even easier if a person has actual windows so dont have to cut a big hole in a door or in the side
Tires and bearings need regular maintenance. Speed kills- most states have speed limits for trailers being towed- here in NM, it's max speed 65. Don't exceed the speed limit of the tires. that's asking for a blowout.
Totally agree!
I plan on being a nomad, but I'm not sure if I should convert a
Box Truck & tow a small car, or.
Get a big truck & tow a Cargo Trailer.
Big truck & cargo trailer :-)
If the engine on the box truck poops, it’s far easier to replace a tow vehicle than it is your entire home !
Now I say this having thought through it all very thoroughly, as I was initially wanting a box truck myself !
Imo a van and trailer would be even better because it provides two dwellings in the event the one has to be put in a shop for repairs. We all know paying for repairs and even the cheapest motel room daily can chew up one's reserve money quick. I'd also rather use trailer space for tools over anything else to make as minor repairs and maintenance myself especially if long term boondocking in this current economic state.
@@marcushennings9513 , good call ! There are advantages to both, but in the future I may have to consider that combo myself 🤔
Curious if you were to take a poll how many cargo conversion owners got anywhere near a thousand nights of use.
US NAVY 1975-1979 FTG3 USS Mullinnix DD-944
USS Fletcher DD 992 here! Thank you for your service!
Power analysis made easy, buy a Bluetti 200P and get 600 watts of panels, hook it up, buy a Westinghouse 2kw genset and a gas can; go camping!
I don't see the coleman A/C unit in your gear list. Not to necro-comment, but what's the A/C unit? Or generally, recommendations for trailer related AC units.
All trailers are probably actually "UNDERSIZED", afterall, it's a TRAILER, and chances are you probably won't squeeze that JACUZZI in no matter how much effort you put into it. I have a 5X10 V-nose, and it's too small because I want to use it as a toy-hauler yet it's also too big since I tow it with my jeep but it's my HAPPY MEDIUM and actually pulls great at unsafe speeds.
Great information, very helpful, thanks. 👍
Very smart video alot information and ideas thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Really good tips. Seems obvious but tip on ensuring trailer is sealed...everywhere... was very useful.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much for these very useful tips, I took notes😊
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.