I love how loving Nate is with the dogs! I can't understand how some trainers just totally yank and crank. I mean, where is the relationship? Why have a dog? Thank you Nate for being such a fantastic trainer and setting such a great example 🙏🥰
Hi Nate, I wanted to thank you for your videos. It is insane that this is available for free on UA-cam. My puppy and me completely follow your teaching and vocabulary. You have enabled me to train my pet dog with a competition dog finesse. Again, thank you. That being said, I would really like to support you and your channel. I did not see a link to a Patreon, do you have another way where grateful people like me can support you?
Awesome! Thanks you, I really appreciate that and I'm happy the training is helping. I actually do have a patreon account. Here's the link: www.patreon.com/NateSchoemer
Our roughy died this year. 12 years old. so sad. look like we're getting another one this weekend, 4months old. My daughter is anyway, it'll spend the days here with the grandparents when shes at work though. oh boy. training a puppy again, its been a long tine.
Love the pivot bowl exercise. So cute to see this chubby pup doing it! My dog is so twisty she can bend herself half way around before she finally moves. Walking backwards has also been challenging, but essential to getting a good left pivot for Rally. Also, loved your comment about the flip finish. Trust me folks, if you can get your dog to do that, and look at you on cue, people will think you are an absolutely amazing dog trainer. Its rare in the general public.
In 2 days I will have GS puppy 8 weeks in USA ( 22 years ago I had collie in Lithuania) and I really appreciate all work you have done and how easy to understand and learn from your videos. You are really good!!! Thank you! I am from Russia and it is very interesting to compare techniques of both countries.
Your videos are just amazing. We will be getting our first dog this summer, and your videos have helped excite me so much about training. Your videos are likely making so many dogs’ and owners’ lives better!
I would like to ask each of the 7 people who disliked this video “what the hell is wrong with you?” 😆 Thanks Nate for another great video! You are helping me so much!!!
great content thanks nate! really useful info! anytime i wanna learn to teach something i always come to your channel, you always have a video on it! they are so great and i LOVE how you don't edit out your mistakes and after you made one you said what you did wrong and how to correct it which is great because people are gunna make mistakes and i feel like it's so important to show people that it's okay to mess up and this is how you fix it! 🐾❤🐾👍👍👌👏🙌🙌⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
I just got a 3mo rough collie and he did great the first 2 days we had him at home, and now he’s so afraid of outside, he has completely regressed. Inside, he’ll also continually pace. It’s near impossible to get him to listen and I’m not sure what to do anymore. The breeder said they’re very sensitive to sounds, which is understandable but your puppy seems so calm and attentive even with sounds.
Awesome video Nate, thanks for clearing up the markers again! ;) When do you start to bring out the shaping box? From what point can I expect a puppy to be able to do a 'nice' sit or down-stand movement? As soon as they can do these on verbal command alone?
Thank you for this video series! I just picked up a 6 month old mini sheltie who has been temperament tested and will be trained as my service dog. She had no training, but with these suggestions is already beginning to sit down and stand after a few days. I look forward to teaching her more before she starts formal training with a professional next month. :-) from Vermont
Thanks Nate. Love your training sessions. Would love to see more videos on training slightly older dogs. I have a two year old female Germans shepherd rescue that’s had no real obedience training and she’s doing really well using the techniques I’m learning here from you and from your dog training book. The biggest issue I’m having to try to overcome is ‘other dogs’ distractions. Things are hunky dory until another dog arrives on the scene then suddenly I don’t seem to exist any more! All she wants to do is get to the other dog no matter what. Any suggestions? Ps. Watching from Roslin Village, Scotland in case you’re interested - yes the one with the famous chapel.
Thanks for commenting! I was just in your neck of the woods about a year ago; it's a beautiful place! I'm a huge fan of Scotland. I look at other environments like progressing through a video game. What I mean by that is the environments should get progressively more difficult as the dog becomes more proficient. In addition, when adding new distractions or competitive motivational factors, eventually you may need to add some kind of positive punishment to get full reliability. Here are two great videos that show my training process from A-Z and my behavioral/obedience modification flowchart: ua-cam.com/video/XQRgci18tvY/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/bPkW3SWblfM/v-deo.html Below are some examples of video game/level progressions: Level 1: An empty room for training free of distractions. Level 2: Same room with more challenging distractions. Level 3: A new room in the house to train. Level 4: Same room with new distractions, such as tossing a toy while working on a stay. Level 5: Backyard. Level 6: Backyard with new distractions. Level 7: Front yard. Level 8: Front yard with new distractions. Level 9: Local park. Level 10: Local park with new distractions. Level 11: Home Depot during slow hours. Level 12: Home Depot during busy hours. Level 13: Local pet store. Level 14: Training next to, but outside of, a dog park. As you can see, we progressively make the environments more difficult as the dog gets better with the training. When moving to a new level/environment, it can seem as if the dog doesn't know anything. That just means the dog is not generalized to the training yet. Check out this video for more guidance: ua-cam.com/video/RStYnOzAcQ0/v-deo.html I hope this helps! Cheers! Nate
Thanks Nate, I’ll go check these videos out. Love the channel and your balanced training methods. 👍🏻🙂 Also, one of the biggest insights I got from you was your advice on ‘overshadowing’ where you explain it’s better to give a verbal before a physical instruction rather than both together. For example, I could not get my girl to perform a ‘down’ from sit position even with a treat in hand. The moment I separated the verbal from the physical she instantly got it - and so did I. It has also worked for other behaviours too. Many thanks.
Thank you!!! I recently got a 9 month old "untrained" GSD and I am starting from the basics with your "Yes" "Free" and Luring techniques. My problem at the moment is that she is really nibbling at my fingers/palm while I'm luring in order to get that treat I've tucked away under my thumb! My hand is hurting! any suggestions to get her to CALM DOWN about the treat when we're training????
Hi Nate. I’ve just joined the channel member. Thank you for all the greatest video and for the best instructions always. I have a question, What is “Free” going to be without any rewards eventually? I know it means release but wondering how will dogs react? It’ll mean like they don’t need to focus on you?
Thanks! Remember that our words to our dogs mean what they predict. So for the dogs that I train, "free" is a terminal marker, which means release plus reward. It's a marker because a marker predicts one of the four quadrants of operant conditioning, which are positive and negative reinforcement, positive and negative punishment. Since "Free" predicts positive reinforcement, then it's a marker. We call it a marker because it signifies that we can mark a behavior to capture it in the dog's mind. So, when the dog sits and the moment the dog's butt hits the ground, you could say your marker. For me, that word is "free" and "yes." This is great because dogs want to repeat behaviors that predict the marker sound because the marker predicts the reward. Lastly, it's a guarantee for the dog. When I say "free," that means they are getting paid. If I just want to release without the reward, I use the word "break." So, when I say "break," my dogs are released from a stay, but no guarantee of a reward. I hope this helps.
My 13 week old puppy (gsd) is good with the crate until the doors lock. She's fine with the door closed it just can't be locked without her going nuts and recommendations on how to break that? No issues with training other then that shes almost 100% reliable on potty outside sit wait down look at me come she walks great on leash its just that.
Try giving her treats when you are closing the door. If she does good, open it up again. You teach her that if the door is locked, its not locked forever. The door opening gives her pressure release. So when she does what you want her to do, being calm when its locked, you take of the pressure and reward her big with lots of pets and vocal praises. It works with lots of animals, I do this a lot with scared horses. Some relax in minutes and some take more sessions. Try this for 10 mins every day and when she get better at it make the sessions longer. BUT keep on making those praises big and loving, she needs to feel like an absolute hero for being calm when the door locks. For us it might look simple, but for her it could feel life threatening
Check out these three videos. I think they may help. crate training: ua-cam.com/video/DxxcIXRCpfU/v-deo.html separation anxiety: ua-cam.com/video/OyhtpMaJX8U/v-deo.html Jump to 37:08 in this video: ua-cam.com/video/3lBJFcWiAzk/v-deo.html Cheers! :)
Just wanted to know how you measure a higher perseverance vs lower perseverance dog ? Just curious to know where my dog falls and wanted an example for reference
You can test it out by putting something your dog likes in a location that he can see, but can't get to. Depending on how fast the dog gives up should give you an idea of how much perseverance your dog has.
I found my smooth only took a day to come, sit and stay. They are so intelligent. It’s the unnecessary barking. Yes they bark, and that’s perfectly fine. Just not at absolutely everything. Should I reward every time he quits barking? I believe that’s how I should do it. Ie, every time he here’s on of the nurses come into the house. He’s so xcited, he just wants to get out of crate ( in morning ) to visit them. Reward when he “ quits”. ???
Your videos are great. I’m sorry for the off topic question, but is that lawn real or Astroturf? If it’s real, please make a video on how you maintain such a perfect looking law, seriously.
@@NateSchoemer You are welcome! So, here in Vienna from time to time some sort of people scatter poison in the nearby woods. Actually, they hate themself, but wouldn't it be "educational" to let them taste their own medicine?
How old is this collie? I have a 5 month old collie, he wont sit for me. lol He is easily distracted. Will this collie fetch a frisbee and bring it back?? Collie is very cute and smart.
Hey Nate, trying to find some info on training my girl karma to mark when I limp. We're training for service dog program. And this is probably the hardest task we'll have to learn, there's no trainers where I am in Canada and we have to pass a government test, its probably just marker training but I don't know where to start with teaching the task, and don't want to mess her up by doing it wrong, thanks for any advice
Once we have our dog performing the action with our physical cue, it is then time to give the behavior a command. The command can be physical or verbal. In order for your dog to learn the command, you must say or perform the command and then show your dog the physical cue. First be warned: A common mistake that people make is when they decide to link the behavior to a command, they will deliver the command while they are giving the dog the physical cue. If you pair (overshadow) your physical cue with your command as stated earlier, the physical will override the command and become the only cue for the behavior. An example of this could be as simple as saying “Good boy” (or the marker that trainers would prefer, “yes”) simultaneously to feeding the dog the reward. By mixing these two actions together, the verbal marker will not have any relevance in the dog’s mind. If we want the dog to learn the command, then it is important to make sure that the command (verbal or physical) precedes the physical cue by a split second. It must be predictable to the dog. So, the process becomes: command, motivate, mark, and reward, in that order. • First say sit (command). • Then you lift your hand with the treat (motivate). • Once the dog's butt hits the ground, you either give the reward within the first second or you mark and then reward. • You will continue to use the physical cues until the dog beats you to it. Meaning, if you say sit and before you lift your hand-the dog is already sitting. This process is the same even if you want to teach a service dog to perform a specific command based on an involuntary human behavior conducted by the person with the disability. For example, you’re training a service dog to nudge his handler when his handler reaches high levels of stress, such as with a veteran suffering from PTSD. First you would need to figure out what the veteran’s involuntary behavior is. For this example, we will say that the veteran looks up and starts to breathe heavily. Once we know this, then that will become the command for the behavior. The next step would be to present a physical cue that can get the dog to nudge your leg (which will be transitioned to the veteran later), let’s say tapping your own leg works for this dog. Now the process would go as follows: • First look up and breathe heavily (the command). • Then you would tap on your leg to get the dog to nudge your leg (motivate). • Once the dog nudges you, you either give the reward within the first second or you mark and then reward. • You will continue to use the physical cues until the dog beats you to it. Meaning, you look up and breathe heavily and before you tap your leg-the dog is already nudging you. I hope this helps! :)
@@NateSchoemer wow.. thanks. That make sense for sure, I'll read it a few more times to make sure I get it and didn't miss anything, Its going to be difficult to get her to sit wile I'm limping.. maybe the nose nudge is better easier. Cheers Nate.
Hey Nate!! I was wanting your opinion on something; my family is looking to bring home a working line black German Shepherd in about six months and we already have a toy cavoodle. I'm a little worried how they will go together, she doesn't like other dogs and is reactive to them, however she eventually gets along with my friends dogs when she gets to know them. Do you think it could work out having a German Shepherd and toy cavoodle living together?
If you're bringing home a puppy and your other dog is good with dogs, then it should be a simple process. Just bring the puppy home and let your older dog see you holding the puppy. Most dogs will not be aggressive to a puppy because a puppy is not a threat. However, some dogs will correct puppies for getting into their space or not respecting boundaries. Often this isn't an issue, but it can start to teach your dog to be submissive. Since I don't like my dogs to be submissive, I don't allow my older dogs to correct puppies when I bring them home. If I notice that the puppy is bothering the older dog, then I'll move the puppy away from the other dog. It also helps to introduce them in a neutral environment, such as the front yard. However, I follow a different process if I am bringing an adult dog home. First, I want to make sure that I can walk both dogs on a loose leash. Once I can do that, then I walk both dogs together. One dog on my left and one dog on my right. You can also have a person help with this process. Just be sure a person is between both dogs. While I'm walking the dogs, I'm making sure the dogs are not showing any aggressive behaviors. Most of the time, non-aggressive dogs will just walk as if it's a normal walk. They will show interest in the other dog, but nothing to raise any flags. Once I get back to the house, I walk both dogs into the backyard or in the house if no yard is available. By walking around the neighborhood with both dogs it seems to welcome the new dog into the group. Once in the yard I drop the leashes and let the dogs interact. For peace of mind, you can have the water hose ready if the dogs decide that they don't like each other. Spraying dogs with the hose is a safe way to stop most dog fights. This is usually not necessary if you did the walk correctly and watched for signs of aggression.
@@NateSchoemer thank you so much!! it will be a 12 week old puppy and my current dog does display aggression towards other dogs, but she would never actually bite, she just wasn't socialised properly as a puppy so isn't quite sure what to do. I will be introducing them in a neutral place and begin with them both on the leash. Thanks!!
No, you'll still be able to train and imprint on the puppy. The only disadvantage would be if the first 12 weeks of the pups life was not ideal. However, if the pup is coming from a good breeder, then you should be fine. :)
I like to use freeze dried dog food. With a puppy or a new dog in training, I will often start with a high-quality dry food during the training process. I also usually give the puppy raw goat milk from answers, to help ensure the dog is getting enough quality nutrition. If I don't have enough time for a training session, then I soak the kibble in water or raw goat milk and stuff it into a kong or raw bone, then freeze it. In addition, I train with freeze-dried dog food, but that can be very pricey. amzn.to/2W88zMf Usually, a high-quality kibble will be okay. I transition them to raw when all the main training is completed and then use the freeze dried dog food while training.
@@NateSchoemer Thank you for the info. Where do you get raw bones from? We have an 8 week old GSD. Again, thank you. I really appreciate your channel. Trying to watch as much as I can.
Thanks! Yes, keep watching videos from my channel and when I announce the release of version 3 of my dog training manual, send me an email and I'll send you a free PDF copy. NateSchoemer@gmai.com
How about "no bark"? My Scotch Collie (25% English Shepherd) has strong guarding instincts and barks wildly at all animals ... even several hundred feet away.
Remember, in order to teach a dog a command, you have to be able to present a physical cue that guarantees the desired behavior. So what physical cue can you use that will stop your dogs barking? From my experience, the most effective physical cue is a leash pop. So the process would go: 1) Dog barks 2) Give the command, I say "Quiet." the moment the dog barks, not after. 3) Correct the dog with the leash pop, after you say quiet, not at the same time. This will get most dogs to instantly stop barking. 4) Once the dog is quiet, praise them for doing the right behavior. 5) Continue this process until the dog stops barking when you say "quiet." 6) Later on if the dog ignores the command, then go back to provided the physical cue for the next three commanded quiets. After that he should be listening to the command again. Again, this has always worked for me. If you have a different physical cue that works, then use that in place of the correction. I hope this helps. Cheers!
@@NateSchoemer I'm getting a borderdoodle in a month, I can't wait to start playing some training games with him like this. How soon can you start with things like marker training and luring?
I would suggest watching my basic obedience series in order. It was designed to be watched in order to maximize results. Thanks! ua-cam.com/video/cc8hX4lCGiY/v-deo.html
I feel you should have millions of followers - you have such calm, rational teaching method that is so easy to follow with none of the drama or hype
Thank you, I really appreciate that! :)
I love how loving Nate is with the dogs! I can't understand how some trainers just totally yank and crank. I mean, where is the relationship? Why have a dog? Thank you Nate for being such a fantastic trainer and setting such a great example 🙏🥰
Hi Nate, I wanted to thank you for your videos. It is insane that this is available for free on UA-cam. My puppy and me completely follow your teaching and vocabulary. You have enabled me to train my pet dog with a competition dog finesse. Again, thank you.
That being said, I would really like to support you and your channel. I did not see a link to a Patreon, do you have another way where grateful people like me can support you?
Btw, which breed is your pup Rishabh?
Awesome! Thanks you, I really appreciate that and I'm happy the training is helping. I actually do have a patreon account. Here's the link: www.patreon.com/NateSchoemer
I love that you’re using a collie. My son’s SDIT is a rough collie. They’re such a fun breed to work with.
Thanks and yes, they are great dogs! :)
Our roughy died this year. 12 years old. so sad. look like we're getting another one this weekend, 4months old. My daughter is anyway, it'll spend the days here with the grandparents when shes at work though. oh boy. training a puppy again, its been a long tine.
Love the pivot bowl exercise. So cute to see this chubby pup doing it! My dog is so twisty she can bend herself half way around before she finally moves. Walking backwards has also been challenging, but essential to getting a good left pivot for Rally. Also, loved your comment about the flip finish. Trust me folks, if you can get your dog to do that, and look at you on cue, people will think you are an absolutely amazing dog trainer. Its rare in the general public.
Thanks, Sophie! :)
1:01 - Sit
1:50 - Down
2:44 - Stand
4:12 - Heel Position
5:40 - Come & Backwards Call
7:30 - Climb & Off
8:06 - Spin
9:09 - Walk Backwards
10:23 - Center
11:31 - Bowl
Thanks, Cathy!
Odin my gsd loves the center command. It's how we end each training session and has helped a lot with his 'pivot' during a focused heel
Awesome! I'm happy it helped and thanks for sharing! :)
In 2 days I will have GS puppy 8 weeks in USA ( 22 years ago I had collie in Lithuania) and I really appreciate all work you have done and how easy to understand and learn from your videos. You are really good!!! Thank you! I am from Russia and it is very interesting to compare techniques of both countries.
Thank you, Julia! :)
You have changed my perspective on dog training significantly.
I have learned so much. Thanks Nate.
Awesome! Thank you and thanks for watching! :)
Guney as a career sailor I you are a Marine and you have a German Shepard...
Thanks as always Nate. For all I’ve been through your basic obedience series many times I’ve still learned new things from this video.
Awesome! Thank you, Susan!
Your videos are just amazing. We will be getting our first dog this summer, and your videos have helped excite me so much about training. Your videos are likely making so many dogs’ and owners’ lives better!
That is awesome! Thank you! :)
Reserved a german shepherd puppy, getting very excited to have him in our home in May. This will be extremely helpful! Love the videos.
that's so exciting!! I am most likely getting a gsd puppy this year too, some time before August!!
Me too! Having one gsd puppy in next week. This video helped so much.
Awesome! Congrats and thanks for watching and commenting. :)
You owe us an update. It's the Law of the Internet.
I would like to ask each of the 7 people who disliked this video “what the hell is wrong with you?” 😆
Thanks Nate for another great video! You are helping me so much!!!
Lol! My pleasure. Thanks for watching and supporting the channel. :)
Getting a puppy on Saturday. This is super helpful for us!
Awesome! Congrats! :)
Another fantastic video! Thanks for all you do.
Thanks, Richard! :)
Love the way you break the steps down. Great demonstration as usual. Thanks again.
Thanks again, Sue! :)
great content thanks nate! really useful info! anytime i wanna learn to teach something i always come to your channel, you always have a video on it! they are so great and i LOVE how you don't edit out your mistakes and after you made one you said what you did wrong and how to correct it which is great because people are gunna make mistakes and i feel like it's so important to show people that it's okay to mess up and this is how you fix it! 🐾❤🐾👍👍👌👏🙌🙌⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Puppies learning. 🐕😍
Looking forward to seeing the progression.
Us too! Thanks, Kevin! :)
Thank the good Lord for this video! Just became a caregiver for a 6 month old collie dog nephew. I’ve got this now!
Wonderful! :)
I just got a 3mo rough collie and he did great the first 2 days we had him at home, and now he’s so afraid of outside, he has completely regressed. Inside, he’ll also continually pace. It’s near impossible to get him to listen and I’m not sure what to do anymore. The breeder said they’re very sensitive to sounds, which is understandable but your puppy seems so calm and attentive even with sounds.
Great summary! Always excellent information & always fun! Spock is SO cute! Thank you!
Thanks so much! :)
Thanks for the tips! I get my first collie puppy in a week!
Awesome video Nate, thanks for clearing up the markers again! ;)
When do you start to bring out the shaping box? From what point can I expect a puppy to be able to do a 'nice' sit or down-stand movement? As soon as they can do these on verbal command alone?
Thanks! The time will depend on so many different factors. I would keep doing the training until the dog is doing the behaviors the way you want.
Amazing Hooman and puppyyy. He’s so adorable. Thank you so much for the video. I’m gonna try and train my Doberman puppy tomorrow 🤍
My pleasure. Thanks for watching and I'm glad the video was helpful. :)
Thank you Nate. Enthusiasm, motivation galore.
An area I need to work on.
Thanks! Cheers!
Thank you for this video series! I just picked up a 6 month old mini sheltie who has been temperament tested and will be trained as my service dog. She had no training, but with these suggestions is already beginning to sit down and stand after a few days. I look forward to teaching her more before she starts formal training with a professional next month. :-) from Vermont
Wonderful! Thanks for sharing and I'm happy the video was helpful. :)
Great seeing this with a novice puppy, who is adorable. It's really fun seeing the light bulb going off for my own puppy.
Awesome! Thanks and I'm happy the video was helpful! :)
Thanks Nate. Love your training sessions. Would love to see more videos on training slightly older dogs. I have a two year old female Germans shepherd rescue that’s had no real obedience training and she’s doing really well using the techniques I’m learning here from you and from your dog training book. The biggest issue I’m having to try to overcome is ‘other dogs’ distractions. Things are hunky dory until another dog arrives on the scene then suddenly I don’t seem to exist any more! All she wants to do is get to the other dog no matter what. Any suggestions? Ps. Watching from Roslin Village, Scotland in case you’re interested - yes the one with the famous chapel.
Thanks for commenting! I was just in your neck of the woods about a year ago; it's a beautiful place! I'm a huge fan of Scotland. I look at other environments like progressing through a video game. What I mean by that is the environments should get progressively more difficult as the dog becomes more proficient. In addition, when adding new distractions or competitive motivational factors, eventually you may need to add some kind of positive punishment to get full reliability.
Here are two great videos that show my training process from A-Z and my behavioral/obedience modification flowchart:
ua-cam.com/video/XQRgci18tvY/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/bPkW3SWblfM/v-deo.html
Below are some examples of video game/level progressions:
Level 1: An empty room for training free of distractions.
Level 2: Same room with more challenging distractions.
Level 3: A new room in the house to train.
Level 4: Same room with new distractions, such as tossing a toy while working on a stay.
Level 5: Backyard.
Level 6: Backyard with new distractions.
Level 7: Front yard.
Level 8: Front yard with new distractions.
Level 9: Local park.
Level 10: Local park with new distractions.
Level 11: Home Depot during slow hours.
Level 12: Home Depot during busy hours.
Level 13: Local pet store.
Level 14: Training next to, but outside of, a dog park.
As you can see, we progressively make the environments more difficult as the dog gets better with the training. When moving to a new level/environment, it can seem as if the dog doesn't know anything. That just means the dog is not generalized to the training yet. Check out this video for more guidance: ua-cam.com/video/RStYnOzAcQ0/v-deo.html
I hope this helps!
Cheers!
Nate
Thanks Nate, I’ll go check these videos out. Love the channel and your balanced training methods. 👍🏻🙂 Also, one of the biggest insights I got from you was your advice on ‘overshadowing’ where you explain it’s better to give a verbal before a physical instruction rather than both together. For example, I could not get my girl to perform a ‘down’ from sit position even with a treat in hand. The moment I separated the verbal from the physical she instantly got it - and so did I. It has also worked for other behaviours too. Many thanks.
Thank you so much for this video, awesome help
Thanks! I'm happy it was helpful. :)
Fantastic video!
Thank you very much! :)
Thank you!!! I recently got a 9 month old "untrained" GSD and I am starting from the basics with your "Yes" "Free" and Luring techniques. My problem at the moment is that she is really nibbling at my fingers/palm while I'm luring in order to get that treat I've tucked away under my thumb! My hand is hurting! any suggestions to get her to CALM DOWN about the treat when we're training????
Hi Nate. I’ve just joined the channel member. Thank you for all the greatest video and for the best instructions always. I have a question, What is “Free” going to be without any rewards eventually? I know it means release but wondering how will dogs react? It’ll mean like they don’t need to focus on you?
Thanks! Remember that our words to our dogs mean what they predict. So for the dogs that I train, "free" is a terminal marker, which means release plus reward. It's a marker because a marker predicts one of the four quadrants of operant conditioning, which are positive and negative reinforcement, positive and negative punishment. Since "Free" predicts positive reinforcement, then it's a marker. We call it a marker because it signifies that we can mark a behavior to capture it in the dog's mind. So, when the dog sits and the moment the dog's butt hits the ground, you could say your marker. For me, that word is "free" and "yes." This is great because dogs want to repeat behaviors that predict the marker sound because the marker predicts the reward. Lastly, it's a guarantee for the dog. When I say "free," that means they are getting paid. If I just want to release without the reward, I use the word "break." So, when I say "break," my dogs are released from a stay, but no guarantee of a reward. I hope this helps.
Oh!I get it!
Thank you so much!!
You’re the best
thank you. I get my rough collie on Sept 17
Wonderful! Rough Collies are great dogs! :)
My 13 week old puppy (gsd) is good with the crate until the doors lock. She's fine with the door closed it just can't be locked without her going nuts and recommendations on how to break that? No issues with training other then that shes almost 100% reliable on potty outside sit wait down look at me come she walks great on leash its just that.
Try giving her treats when you are closing the door. If she does good, open it up again. You teach her that if the door is locked, its not locked forever. The door opening gives her pressure release. So when she does what you want her to do, being calm when its locked, you take of the pressure and reward her big with lots of pets and vocal praises.
It works with lots of animals, I do this a lot with scared horses. Some relax in minutes and some take more sessions.
Try this for 10 mins every day and when she get better at it make the sessions longer. BUT keep on making those praises big and loving, she needs to feel like an absolute hero for being calm when the door locks. For us it might look simple, but for her it could feel life threatening
Check out these three videos. I think they may help.
crate training: ua-cam.com/video/DxxcIXRCpfU/v-deo.html
separation anxiety: ua-cam.com/video/OyhtpMaJX8U/v-deo.html
Jump to 37:08 in this video: ua-cam.com/video/3lBJFcWiAzk/v-deo.html
Cheers! :)
Really well done! Thank you for sharing this and for the reminder to have training be fun!!!
Thank you, I appreciate that! :)
Spock is so cute. I know he's much larger now. I've had 8 collies but now I'm thinking our collie Mason needs a friend.
Thanks! He is a cute pup! :)
This is a really nice tutorial! Which brand of treat did you give to the puppy? I have a rough collie puppy who doesn't like any treat I give her.
Thank you! If you're curious about what food, treats, or training products that I use, you can see them listed here: www.nateschoemer.com/store
Great videos Nate. Any tips for training a puppy when another adult dog around
Thanks! Yes, train the dogs separately. Once both have good obedience, then you can train them together. :)
@@NateSchoemer thank you. Older one is good but not as good as I know he can be after watching yours. Keep up the advice
This vídeo is gold ! Thanks
Thanks, Abraham! :)
As always great video 🙂
My dog started to do Centre randomly always makes me smile🤣
Thanks, G K! :)
Very nice thank you
Just wanted to know how you measure a higher perseverance vs lower perseverance dog ? Just curious to know where my dog falls and wanted an example for reference
You can test it out by putting something your dog likes in a location that he can see, but can't get to. Depending on how fast the dog gives up should give you an idea of how much perseverance your dog has.
I found my smooth only took a day to come, sit and stay. They are so intelligent.
It’s the unnecessary barking. Yes they bark, and that’s perfectly fine. Just not at absolutely everything. Should I reward every time he quits barking? I believe that’s how I should do it. Ie, every time he here’s on of the nurses come into the house. He’s so xcited, he just wants to get out of crate ( in morning ) to visit them. Reward when he “ quits”. ???
So good bro !
Thanks 🔥
Love it..dog's but is important to watch
Thanks!
You are a dream man!
Thanks, I really appreciate that! :)
Thank you❤🌹
Thanks again! :)
how old is this puppy ? Mine is two and half months old rough collie . Is it soon to start with sessions like this ?
Your videos are great. I’m sorry for the off topic question, but is that lawn real or Astroturf? If it’s real, please make a video on how you maintain such a perfect looking law, seriously.
Lol! Thanks, but it's fake grass. :)
@@NateSchoemer agreed, I was like WOW, what do you use on that GRASS
Brilliant
Great techniques! But most of all: I see in EVERY video, that you love animals!
Thanks, dogmaster! I appreciate that and who doesn't love animals? They are the best!!! :)
@@NateSchoemer You are welcome! So, here in Vienna from time to time some sort of people scatter poison in the nearby woods. Actually, they hate themself, but wouldn't it be "educational" to let them taste their own medicine?
How old is this collie? I have a 5 month old collie, he wont sit for me. lol He is easily distracted. Will this collie fetch a frisbee and bring it back?? Collie is very cute and smart.
Hey Nate, trying to find some info on training my girl karma to mark when I limp. We're training for service dog program. And this is probably the hardest task we'll have to learn, there's no trainers where I am in Canada and we have to pass a government test, its probably just marker training but I don't know where to start with teaching the task, and don't want to mess her up by doing it wrong, thanks for any advice
Once we have our dog performing the action with our physical cue, it is then time to give the behavior a command. The command can be physical or verbal. In order for your dog to learn the command, you must say or perform the command and then show your dog the physical cue.
First be warned: A common mistake that people make is when they decide to link the behavior to a command, they will deliver the command while they are giving the dog the physical cue. If you pair (overshadow) your physical cue with your command as stated earlier, the physical will override the command and become the only cue for the behavior.
An example of this could be as simple as saying “Good boy” (or the marker that trainers would prefer, “yes”) simultaneously to feeding the dog the reward. By mixing these two actions together, the verbal marker will not have any relevance in the dog’s mind.
If we want the dog to learn the command, then it is important to make sure that the command (verbal or physical) precedes the physical cue by a split second. It must be predictable to the dog. So, the process becomes: command, motivate, mark, and reward, in that order.
• First say sit (command).
• Then you lift your hand with the treat (motivate).
• Once the dog's butt hits the ground, you either give the reward within the first second or you mark and then reward.
• You will continue to use the physical cues until the dog beats you to it. Meaning, if you say sit and before you lift your hand-the dog is already sitting.
This process is the same even if you want to teach a service dog to perform a specific command based on an involuntary human behavior conducted by the person with the disability. For example, you’re training a service dog to nudge his handler when his handler reaches high levels of stress, such as with a veteran suffering from PTSD. First you would need to figure out what the veteran’s involuntary behavior is. For this example, we will say that the veteran looks up and starts to breathe heavily. Once we know this, then that will become the command for the behavior. The next step would be to present a physical cue that can get the dog to nudge your leg (which will be transitioned to the veteran later), let’s say tapping your own leg works for this dog. Now the process would go as follows:
• First look up and breathe heavily (the command).
• Then you would tap on your leg to get the dog to nudge your leg (motivate).
• Once the dog nudges you, you either give the reward within the first second or you mark and then reward.
• You will continue to use the physical cues until the dog beats you to it. Meaning, you look up and breathe heavily and before you tap your leg-the dog is already nudging you.
I hope this helps! :)
@@NateSchoemer wow.. thanks. That make sense for sure, I'll read it a few more times to make sure I get it and didn't miss anything,
Its going to be difficult to get her to sit wile I'm limping.. maybe the nose nudge is better easier.
Cheers Nate.
Hey Nate!! I was wanting your opinion on something; my family is looking to bring home a working line black German Shepherd in about six months and we already have a toy cavoodle. I'm a little worried how they will go together, she doesn't like other dogs and is reactive to them, however she eventually gets along with my friends dogs when she gets to know them. Do you think it could work out having a German Shepherd and toy cavoodle living together?
If you're bringing home a puppy and your other dog is good with dogs, then it should be a simple process. Just bring the puppy home and let your older dog see you holding the puppy. Most dogs will not be aggressive to a puppy because a puppy is not a threat. However, some dogs will correct puppies for getting into their space or not respecting boundaries. Often this isn't an issue, but it can start to teach your dog to be submissive. Since I don't like my dogs to be submissive, I don't allow my older dogs to correct puppies when I bring them home. If I notice that the puppy is bothering the older dog, then I'll move the puppy away from the other dog. It also helps to introduce them in a neutral environment, such as the front yard.
However, I follow a different process if I am bringing an adult dog home. First, I want to make sure that I can walk both dogs on a loose leash. Once I can do that, then I walk both dogs together. One dog on my left and one dog on my right. You can also have a person help with this process. Just be sure a person is between both dogs.
While I'm walking the dogs, I'm making sure the dogs are not showing any aggressive behaviors. Most of the time, non-aggressive dogs will just walk as if it's a normal walk. They will show interest in the other dog, but nothing to raise any flags. Once I get back to the house, I walk both dogs into the backyard or in the house if no yard is available. By walking around the neighborhood with both dogs it seems to welcome the new dog into the group. Once in the yard I drop the leashes and let the dogs interact. For peace of mind, you can have the water hose ready if the dogs decide that they don't like each other. Spraying dogs with the hose is a safe way to stop most dog fights. This is usually not necessary if you did the walk correctly and watched for signs of aggression.
@@NateSchoemer thank you so much!! it will be a 12 week old puppy and my current dog does display aggression towards other dogs, but she would never actually bite, she just wasn't socialised properly as a puppy so isn't quite sure what to do. I will be introducing them in a neutral place and begin with them both on the leash. Thanks!!
i need this fr
Thanks for commenting. :)
where can I find a bowl like this one
I bought it at a pet store. It's a Kong bowl. :)
He is so cute! So is the puppy 😜
Lol! This puppy is absolutely adorable! :)
Am I at a big disadvantage by getting my puppy at 12 weeks instead of 8 weeks?
No, you'll still be able to train and imprint on the puppy. The only disadvantage would be if the first 12 weeks of the pups life was not ideal. However, if the pup is coming from a good breeder, then you should be fine. :)
Cutie!!!!! 😭😭😭💗
Thanks! I agree, Spock is super cute!
What do you use for treats for these training sessions?
Their meals are used for training.
Freeze dried, kibble, etc
@@ThisIsMe3699 Just freeze their kibble? How long? Give it to them frozen?
Thanks
I like to use freeze dried dog food. With a puppy or a new dog in training, I will often start with a high-quality dry food during the training process. I also usually give the puppy raw goat milk from answers, to help ensure the dog is getting enough quality nutrition. If I don't have enough time for a training session, then I soak the kibble in water or raw goat milk and stuff it into a kong or raw bone, then freeze it. In addition, I train with freeze-dried dog food, but that can be very pricey. amzn.to/2W88zMf Usually, a high-quality kibble will be okay. I transition them to raw when all the main training is completed and then use the freeze dried dog food while training.
@@NateSchoemer Thank you for the info. Where do you get raw bones from? We have an 8 week old GSD.
Again, thank you. I really appreciate your channel. Trying to watch as much as I can.
Ok I realize this is truly unimport to the video, but does Spock have the cutest puppy butt ever?!! 😆😍 And the tail! Ok, sorry. I'm done now. 😁
I don't have a dog, but im training my cats like this now
loooool awesome. they will rule the world.
Awesome! Let me know how it goes. :)
I would like to see a video on that though 😅
I have a rough collie aswell, fun fact I accidentally taught him how to jump over stuff😂I luv him tho his name is Tucker😊
hey i am an indian i love your training . can you help me how to deveolp structure in dogs
Thanks! Yes, keep watching videos from my channel and when I announce the release of version 3 of my dog training manual, send me an email and I'll send you a free PDF copy. NateSchoemer@gmai.com
he is so freakin cute i just wanna squish him 🤣🥰🥰🥰
How old is this rough collie puppy?
In this video, I think he was around 10 weeks or so.
How about "no bark"? My Scotch Collie (25% English Shepherd) has strong guarding instincts and barks wildly at all animals ... even several hundred feet away.
Remember, in order to teach a dog a command, you have to be able to present a physical cue that guarantees the desired behavior. So what physical cue can you use that will stop your dogs barking? From my experience, the most effective physical cue is a leash pop. So the process would go:
1) Dog barks
2) Give the command, I say "Quiet." the moment the dog barks, not after.
3) Correct the dog with the leash pop, after you say quiet, not at the same time. This will get most dogs to instantly stop barking.
4) Once the dog is quiet, praise them for doing the right behavior.
5) Continue this process until the dog stops barking when you say "quiet."
6) Later on if the dog ignores the command, then go back to provided the physical cue for the next three commanded quiets. After that he should be listening to the command again.
Again, this has always worked for me. If you have a different physical cue that works, then use that in place of the correction.
I hope this helps.
Cheers!
💗💙💚💓👏🙏💪
Thank you! :)
@@NateSchoemer
Thanks for you❤💓💙💚🙏
So cute! How old is Spock?
Thanks! He's about 11 weeks old. :)
@@NateSchoemer I'm getting a borderdoodle in a month, I can't wait to start playing some training games with him like this. How soon can you start with things like marker training and luring?
I'm trying to copy you, but everytime i said down to my pup he won't do it unless I will give him a reward.
I would suggest watching my basic obedience series in order. It was designed to be watched in order to maximize results. Thanks! ua-cam.com/video/cc8hX4lCGiY/v-deo.html
@@NateSchoemer Thanks
Great video!
Thanks, I'm happy you enjoyed it.