Happy to have seen this. My dad bought me this sewing machine in 1975, just started home Ec in high school. . I still have it and pulled it out today. I have a newer brother (all computerized) and honestly for basic sewing this one is better. The straight sewing is a dream. I remember my dad (an engineer w/o the degree) would only look at machines for me with NO plastic parts. I totally get it now 50 years later.
Thanks for the hand quiting thread identity tip. I found machine #27 (again). Its a Necchi Mod 538, which looks very much like this, with a slight difference in the zigzag slide lever indication characters. It has steel gearing, made in Japan. It was stiff but now its not. I turned that top knob while under power and crashed the needle,, so that is a no no.
Japanese made. That’s a good one. How’s your addition to home coming along? You’ll need more room to house your burgeoning collection of classic machines right?
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 I flunked a remedial math course at the jr. college annex yesterday. However, I did buy some nice industrial grade shelving , new condition, at the scrap yard today. So many business are tossing their stuff at the scrap yard. They are calling it quits. Its really alarming.
Hi! Just remembered you did this video a while back. I have this machine and bobbin thread would not come up. After changing needles numerous times and being sure needle was inserted correctly, rethreading machine using dual duty thread, winding new bobbin with dual duty thread, tried a few bobbin cases and shuttles/hook, I got the needle eye in relation to the hook on the needles upswing timing correct on the right side of widest zig zag but when it sews it sews a straight line on right side while in zig zag and straight stitch skips MOST stitches. When I turn machine over, I can see right zig zag picking up thread but left zig zag and straight stitch hook does not grab thread loop. Can some machines just NEVER be put back into time. I read the service manual to adjust the driver ( think that was what it was called, had to loosen set screws underneath machine on shaft) also adjusted needle bar just a tiny, tiny bit to get needle eye just below hook so scarf would be in correct location to hook thread loop. If you have time, would love to hear your thoughts.
The timing is off just a bit. You may have to make sure that the hook swings far enough to the left to catch that stitch, while still arriving on the right side just above the eye as the needle rises. Watch the hook as it swings to the left. It has to pass far enough past the needle so it can return as the needle rises and forms the loop for it to catch. The needle bar can go down or up a bit to make this all happen.
Randy, someone gave me a necchi 539, but it hasn't been used in years, so when I tried sewing--it would sew then lock up then sew and lock up. Any suggestions to fix or just pass on it?
If the lock up is in the hook assembly and bobbin area, I would guess it’s not threaded correctly or the thread is oversized. Get an all purpose/dual duty thread and put the tension on 4. Follow MY RECOMMENDED THREADING PROCEDURE, and it may get a better outcome.
@@143fizzy it will perform as well as any household sewing machine on denim. It will be limited by the size of thread, just like any household sewing machine. If you use a strong polyester thread thats not oversized, this machine will do well on denim, if it’s not too thick. Every machine has its limitations, and denim will help you find its limitations very quickly.
I've never heard of "heavy thread" causing damage to a machine. How did the thread "damage" metal parts? I've used upholstery thread, jeans thread and occasional hand quilting thread without any issues. (I understand the hand quilting thread has a coating that might be problematic causing a "gunk" build up.) But if a machine specifically says it will take a size 18 needle and corresponding heavy thread, how does the thread damage metal parts?
If a machine is designed to accommodate heavy thread, it can’t be damaged by heavy thread. The machine I was referencing wasn’t designed to accommodate heavy thread. The thread gap tolerance is only big enough for all purpose thread or the equivalent. When the machine jams as a result, the needle strikes the hook, needle plate, and back of the presser foot causing damage to those parts. It’s my phrasing and presentation that is confusing the issue. It’s not that jumping out of an airplane without a parachute will kill you, it’s the sudden contact with the ground that kills you. My apologies for being unclear. I have made 238 videos and many of them address the problems caused by using heavy thread on a machine that’s not designed for it. Sometimes I assume you’ve watched previous videos on the subject. Again, my mistake, not yours. Thanks for watching.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thank you for the answer. I have watched numerous videos that you've done (all excellent BTW) but none had mentioned "heavy thread". From what you described in this video, I was envisioning some sort of damage to parts along the thread trail of a machine which didn't make sense to me. I have upholstered 2 sofas and 3 chairs with nylon upholstery thread and made a handful of bags/wallets using hand quilting thread - just for topstitching - on a 1990 Kenmore 385.1764180. This Kenny has some plastic, including the drop-in bobbin case, which in my 32 year old machine has no needle strike damage at all, because, by age 30, I knew what I was doing. There are some domestic machines that are made so poorly they cannot handle anything of a heavyweight nature. I strongly suspect this Necchi is not one of those machines, but I've sewn on a couple of Japanese all metal machines that weren't great at heavy weight and they weren't amazing at much else either. The damage you just described isn't actually caused by the thread at all. It's almost always 100% operator error. It's caused by the sewist not knowing how to support and feed the heavy project fabric through the machine and understanding the domestic machine's limits. Instead of "lifting and feeding" heavy fabric, inexperienced sewists will "push, pull and tug" on heavy fabric (especially when attempting to get thru multiple layers) causing the needle deflection which of course plays havoc with everything in the bobbin area and can throw the timing. My first machine was a Singer Touch and Sew - lots of plastic. I reupholstered my car seats, made heavy coats, etc. That bobbin case had several needle strikes and the machine needed a timing adjustment each year for the first 3 years that I used it. I was in my late teens then. By the time I bought the Kenny, I had learned how to properly feed fabric and support the project. My mom also upholstered several pieces of furniture on a 1996 plastic Babylock which is still sewing just fine and has never been professionally serviced. When I use the hand quilting thread, I only use it in the top, never in the bobbin because of the coating. I would also NEVER use it to machine quilt. Every time I've used it, I needed less than 15 feet of thread to embellish a project with top-stitching. I can't justify special ordering 500 yards or more of heavy thread to obtain a color I need so little of. Also, when doing a heavy weight project, there may be some areas (where seams join) that will not fit under the presser foot of a domestic machine. This is when it is necessary to know when and how to hand sew these spots.
If your machine has the two cords that hang from the right side of the machine, one is for the light and one is for the motor. They plug into the cabinet wiring or the portable case wiring by identifying which plug is marked for which cord. If you plug them in and the machine takes off without pressing the controller, switch them. If the light comes on when you press the controller, switch them. If the plug in block isn’t marked, the plug closest to the outlet side is for the light. The side of the plug in block that is closest to the controller, is the one for the motor plug.
I know enough Frenchy French to be conversationally dangerous. I looked all over the machine to find the country of origin clues and came up empty. I’m like you though, I believe it’s Japanese in origin because of its quality fit and finish. I sold a lot of them in the late 70’s and early 80’s. That’s when they were prone to be made In Taiwan and then changed to having the plastic drive gear.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 I have it set exactly how you have it set in the video, and it still does it. It don’t matter what stitch we try. Even in zig zag it does it.
@@timmonroe-hs7cl it’s probably stuck in that setting. 1)Take the top two screws off and remove the top cover. 2)Spray some penetrating oil on the cam stack and the followers. 3)Be sure the width is set on zero. 4) move the pattern selector dial back and forth until the pattern selector moves from end to end. 5) put it back together and thread it up. 6) sew stuff. 😎
Owners manuals are available online. Do a search and put in the model etc. There are numerous aftermarket providers that can sell you a book or have you print one from a PDF. You might even find an original one on Etsy or eBay. 😎
Happy to have seen this. My dad bought me this sewing machine in 1975, just started home Ec in high school. . I still have it and pulled it out today. I have a newer brother (all computerized) and honestly for basic sewing this one is better. The straight sewing is a dream. I remember my dad (an engineer w/o the degree) would only look at machines for me with NO plastic parts. I totally get it now 50 years later.
@@sharonirons9828 your dad was forward looking genius. He knew quality when he saw it. Well done Dad. 😎👍
Thank for that informational tour of that sewing machine.... Keep up your reviews and comments on these kind of machines...
Glad to assist Jorge.👍
Thanks for the hand quiting thread identity tip.
I found machine #27 (again). Its a Necchi Mod 538, which looks very much like this, with a slight difference in the zigzag slide lever indication characters. It has steel gearing, made in Japan. It was stiff but now its not. I turned that top knob while under power and crashed the needle,, so that is a no no.
Japanese made. That’s a good one.
How’s your addition to home coming along?
You’ll need more room to house your burgeoning collection of classic machines right?
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 I flunked a remedial math course at the jr. college annex yesterday.
However, I did buy some nice industrial grade shelving , new condition, at the scrap yard today. So many business are tossing their stuff at the scrap yard. They are calling it quits. Its really alarming.
Hi! Just remembered you did this video a while back. I have this machine and bobbin thread would not come up. After changing needles numerous times and being sure needle was inserted correctly, rethreading machine using dual duty thread, winding new bobbin with dual duty thread, tried a few bobbin cases and shuttles/hook, I got the needle eye in relation to the hook on the needles upswing timing correct on the right side of widest zig zag but when it sews it sews a straight line on right side while in zig zag and straight stitch skips MOST stitches. When I turn machine over, I can see right zig zag picking up thread but left zig zag and straight stitch hook does not grab thread loop. Can some machines just NEVER be put back into time. I read the service manual to adjust the driver ( think that was what it was called, had to loosen set screws underneath machine on shaft) also adjusted needle bar just a tiny, tiny bit to get needle eye just below hook so scarf would be in correct location to hook thread loop. If you have time, would love to hear your thoughts.
The timing is off just a bit.
You may have to make sure that the hook swings far enough to the left to catch that stitch, while still arriving on the right side just above the eye as the needle rises.
Watch the hook as it swings to the left. It has to pass far enough past the needle so it can return as the needle rises and forms the loop for it to catch.
The needle bar can go down or up a bit to make this all happen.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 OK......I will try again. Just did not know if I should waive the white flag LOL
@@DianneUnderwood-nk8or 😎👍
Please can I get a picture of your foot pedal???? I was gifted this machine without pedal
I have this same model Necchi. It's been awhile since I have used it and I don't remember the precise details on winding the bobbin on top.
I have videos explaining that process. All the machines with that bobbin winder set up, wind their bobbins the same way.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 which videos do I need to watch?
Nevermind I went through and found the video. Thanks
@@butterfly101664 excellent.👍😎
Randy, someone gave me a necchi 539, but it hasn't been used in years, so when I tried sewing--it would sew then lock up then sew and lock up. Any suggestions to fix or just pass on it?
If the lock up is in the hook assembly and bobbin area, I would guess it’s not threaded correctly or the thread is oversized.
Get an all purpose/dual duty thread and put the tension on 4.
Follow MY RECOMMENDED THREADING PROCEDURE, and it may get a better outcome.
Hey, I was wondering where you got the needle plate for the sewing machine. I was trying to find the exact same one you had but couldn't find it
Whenever I need a needle plate I just do an online search for:
“Needle plate for Necchi for sale “
All the sellers and selection will pop up.
Can we do thick fabric like denim on this machine?
@@143fizzy it will perform as well as any household sewing machine on denim.
It will be limited by the size of thread, just like any household sewing machine.
If you use a strong polyester thread thats not oversized, this machine will do well on denim, if it’s not too thick.
Every machine has its limitations, and denim will help you find its limitations very quickly.
I've never heard of "heavy thread" causing damage to a machine. How did the thread "damage" metal parts? I've used upholstery thread, jeans thread and occasional hand quilting thread without any issues. (I understand the hand quilting thread has a coating that might be problematic causing a "gunk" build up.) But if a machine specifically says it will take a size 18 needle and corresponding heavy thread, how does the thread damage metal parts?
If a machine is designed to accommodate heavy thread, it can’t be damaged by heavy thread.
The machine I was referencing wasn’t designed to accommodate heavy thread.
The thread gap tolerance is only big enough for all purpose thread or the equivalent.
When the machine jams as a result, the needle strikes the hook, needle plate, and back of the presser foot causing damage to those parts.
It’s my phrasing and presentation that is confusing the issue.
It’s not that jumping out of an airplane without a parachute will kill you, it’s the sudden contact with the ground that kills you.
My apologies for being unclear.
I have made 238 videos and many of them address the problems caused by using heavy thread on a machine that’s not designed for it.
Sometimes I assume you’ve watched previous videos on the subject.
Again, my mistake, not yours.
Thanks for watching.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thank you for the answer. I have watched numerous videos that you've done (all excellent BTW) but none had mentioned "heavy thread". From what you described in this video, I was envisioning some sort of damage to parts along the thread trail of a machine which didn't make sense to me. I have upholstered 2 sofas and 3 chairs with nylon upholstery thread and made a handful of bags/wallets using hand quilting thread - just for topstitching - on a 1990 Kenmore 385.1764180. This Kenny has some plastic, including the drop-in bobbin case, which in my 32 year old machine has no needle strike damage at all, because, by age 30, I knew what I was doing.
There are some domestic machines that are made so poorly they cannot handle anything of a heavyweight nature. I strongly suspect this Necchi is not one of those machines, but I've sewn on a couple of Japanese all metal machines that weren't great at heavy weight and they weren't amazing at much else either.
The damage you just described isn't actually caused by the thread at all. It's almost always 100% operator error. It's caused by the sewist not knowing how to support and feed the heavy project fabric through the machine and understanding the domestic machine's limits. Instead of "lifting and feeding" heavy fabric, inexperienced sewists will "push, pull and tug" on heavy fabric (especially when attempting to get thru multiple layers) causing the needle deflection which of course plays havoc with everything in the bobbin area and can throw the timing.
My first machine was a Singer Touch and Sew - lots of plastic. I reupholstered my car seats, made heavy coats, etc. That bobbin case had several needle strikes and the machine needed a timing adjustment each year for the first 3 years that I used it. I was in my late teens then. By the time I bought the Kenny, I had learned how to properly feed fabric and support the project. My mom also upholstered several pieces of furniture on a 1996 plastic Babylock which is still sewing just fine and has never been professionally serviced.
When I use the hand quilting thread, I only use it in the top, never in the bobbin because of the coating. I would also NEVER use it to machine quilt. Every time I've used it, I needed less than 15 feet of thread to embellish a project with top-stitching. I can't justify special ordering 500 yards or more of heavy thread to obtain a color I need so little of.
Also, when doing a heavy weight project, there may be some areas (where seams join) that will not fit under the presser foot of a domestic machine. This is when it is necessary to know when and how to hand sew these spots.
@@cliftonmcnalley8469 everything you said was 100% spot on. Thanks for your excellent response and stellar presentation.
Thanks for watching.
Is there a way to adjust (left-right) the needle position on the model 539 ?
I don’t see one. 😎
Please how do you connect it to the light and sew????? I was gifted and I don't know how to use it
If your machine has the two cords that hang from the right side of the machine, one is for the light and one is for the motor.
They plug into the cabinet wiring or the portable case wiring by identifying which plug is marked for which cord.
If you plug them in and the machine takes off without pressing the controller, switch them.
If the light comes on when you press the controller, switch them.
If the plug in block isn’t marked, the plug closest to the outlet side is for the light.
The side of the plug in block that is closest to the controller, is the one for the motor plug.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954mine didn't come with controller, can I get a picture of the controller so I can purchase it? Thanks
@@umunnaogochukwu8016 i have a video on replacing that type of foot control. All the different ones are pictured.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954please can you give me the link because I have tried searching for it all to no avail
Looks like Made in Japan. Didn't know that tu parle francais!
I know enough Frenchy French to be conversationally dangerous.
I looked all over the machine to find the country of origin clues and came up empty. I’m like you though, I believe it’s Japanese in origin because of its quality fit and finish. I sold a lot of them in the late 70’s and early 80’s. That’s when they were prone to be made In Taiwan and then changed to having the plastic drive gear.
We just bought this exact machine and are having an issue. It’s sewing 3 stitches forward and one or two backwards. Any idea what’s wrong?
It’s in the stretch stitch mode. Take it out of the stretch stitch mode and away you go. 😎
Place it in the manual setting.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 I have it set exactly how you have it set in the video, and it still does it. It don’t matter what stitch we try. Even in zig zag it does it.
@@timmonroe-hs7cl it’s probably stuck in that setting.
1)Take the top two screws off and remove the top cover.
2)Spray some penetrating oil on the cam stack and the followers.
3)Be sure the width is set on zero.
4) move the pattern selector dial back and forth until the pattern selector moves from end to end.
5) put it back together and thread it up.
6) sew stuff. 😎
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 We got it figured out. Thank you very much.
How do I get a book about the song machine
Owners manuals are available online. Do a search and put in the model etc.
There are numerous aftermarket providers that can sell you a book or have you print one from a PDF.
You might even find an original one on Etsy or eBay. 😎