4:18 i disagree. You can clean the rotor surface easily with disc brake cleaner and fine sandpaper/emery cloth. New pad material types will bed in no issue. No way I'm going to toss out perfectly good rotors just because of a pad material change. 4:58 220mm+, not 203mm. 5:06 How old was the article you got those stats from? 7:54 You only need to consider the diameter and pad choice (Cheap rotors will not play nice with metallic/sintered pads) unless you're getting into rotor thicknesses of 2.3mm or so when it may not suit some calipers that come specced with much thinner discs, you can get rubbing if you have bad alignment. I have happily used Magura and SRAM discs with Shimano calipers with zero issues. Also that's a compatibility list of rotors for pads, not calipers (as I stated earlier, do not use metallic pads with cheap crap discs) 8:38 Now you're contradicting the advice you gave at 7:54.
Thank you for your feedback. I do appreciate honest and constructive feedback like yours. The article is from 2022 and refers to the generally used disc brake rotors. When you purchase a new disc rotor, you need to check also the compatibility between rotors and calipers. Some calipers don't match with rotors bigger than 180mm.
thats just a basic entry level part, good for basic commutes and leisure ride, dont expect top tier performance from it!, match the parts on the level of riding youre doing
My Scultura came with these, was strange from the get go. The "power" came late, in a sudden manner, then if i pulled more it stayed the same. it was like nothing-nothing-sudden too much-not enough-not enough. It also got too hot at the first serious descent and i couldnt stop before turning on a main street, luckily no cars at those seconds. I have changed them to Galfer rotors and pads, night and day.
how to check the collor of Shimano Oil? what is the normal collor of Shimano fluid?? really? check on UA-cam or google it my friend. Next, have a bottle of new Shimano Oil. Put the syringe on the calippers, open the screw on the top break liver, pul at the syringe and check the collor....if it comes out clean and collor is the same or almost the same then its still good. if you ride a lot check it every 6 months....if you train like a pro doing 4000-5000 meters of elevation 3 times a week then check it at least every 3 months....there is something called common sense and getting ti know the materials and components we use. cheers
The alivio (SM-RT10) or it's derivatives are pure horse manure the braking surfaces are made out of aluminum compatible with resin pads only, YES they are objectively worse than a no name 15$ amazon stainless steel rotor... I use vented hope discs and some chinese crap tbh the hope are very rattly...😂
I thought they were just one piece stamped stainless?!? Only shimano icetech rotors are an aluminium/stainless sandwich with alu in the center for heat transfer. Fun fact: stamping stainless steel is cheaper than aluminium in terms of material cost. Its just lower grade material that would get worn quickly with sintered pads.
The major difference between most mechanical and hydraulic is mechanical is cable activated while versus oil (or some other fluid) activation on hydraulic
It's CHEAP ShiT mano and AVID that have 1 piston CRAP. Stupidly unnecessary hydro has gone to 4 pistons. My 100% PERFECT 2 piston cable TRP Spyre can stop dead in 1/100th of a second. It's with a Rohloff 203 disc and resin pads. So it's a TOUR bike and I don't do gravel. My bike is 78 or 120 lbs and still the disc pads went 5,300 miles. But then I have SA XL dyno/ DRUM brake on the front of 2 bikes. 32,000 miles of ZERO worries bliss. WTF is fade and over heating?? LOL hahahaha >> And my cables lasted 20,000 miles too. I haven't shredded one in 30 years, and that was with useless crap grim calipers.
4:18 i disagree. You can clean the rotor surface easily with disc brake cleaner and fine sandpaper/emery cloth. New pad material types will bed in no issue. No way I'm going to toss out perfectly good rotors just because of a pad material change.
4:58 220mm+, not 203mm.
5:06 How old was the article you got those stats from?
7:54 You only need to consider the diameter and pad choice (Cheap rotors will not play nice with metallic/sintered pads) unless you're getting into rotor thicknesses of 2.3mm or so when it may not suit some calipers that come specced with much thinner discs, you can get rubbing if you have bad alignment. I have happily used Magura and SRAM discs with Shimano calipers with zero issues.
Also that's a compatibility list of rotors for pads, not calipers (as I stated earlier, do not use metallic pads with cheap crap discs)
8:38 Now you're contradicting the advice you gave at 7:54.
Thank you for your feedback. I do appreciate honest and constructive feedback like yours.
The article is from 2022 and refers to the generally used disc brake rotors.
When you purchase a new disc rotor, you need to check also the compatibility between rotors and calipers. Some calipers don't match with rotors bigger than 180mm.
thats just a basic entry level part, good for basic commutes and leisure ride, dont expect top tier performance from it!, match the parts on the level of riding youre doing
My Scultura came with these, was strange from the get go. The "power" came late, in a sudden manner, then if i pulled more it stayed the same. it was like nothing-nothing-sudden too much-not enough-not enough. It also got too hot at the first serious descent and i couldnt stop before turning on a main street, luckily no cars at those seconds. I have changed them to Galfer rotors and pads, night and day.
every single bicycle company mount those rotors even in ebikes, at the end you have to spend alot to upgrade your brakes
I'm happy with RT-10 / B05s combo ..
Disc brakes have caused an enormous increase in costs and weight to bicycles. They do bring obvious advantages.
how to check the collor of Shimano Oil? what is the normal collor of Shimano fluid?? really? check on UA-cam or google it my friend. Next, have a bottle of new Shimano Oil. Put the syringe on the calippers, open the screw on the top break liver, pul at the syringe and check the collor....if it comes out clean and collor is the same or almost the same then its still good. if you ride a lot check it every 6 months....if you train like a pro doing 4000-5000 meters of elevation 3 times a week then check it at least every 3 months....there is something called common sense and getting ti know the materials and components we use. cheers
I will convert my bicycle rotors and put the one of my car. I won't have any problems anymore
just stop using laminated shimano rotors. basically any other metal rotor paired with organic pad is awsome. cheers again! :)
Differences ?
What do you mean? Between what and what? Could you elaborate?
The alivio (SM-RT10) or it's derivatives are pure horse manure the braking surfaces are made out of aluminum compatible with resin pads only, YES they are objectively worse than a no name 15$ amazon stainless steel rotor... I use vented hope discs and some chinese crap tbh the hope are very rattly...😂
I thought they were just one piece stamped stainless?!?
Only shimano icetech rotors are an aluminium/stainless sandwich with alu in the center for heat transfer.
Fun fact: stamping stainless steel is cheaper than aluminium in terms of material cost. Its just lower grade material that would get worn quickly with sintered pads.
he made that aluminium part up@@EstelonAgarwaen
This model is the worst disc brake made by Shimano
I second that. Should be classified as a dangerous good 😂
@@LaurentiusTriarius theyre certainly fine for city bikes, just nor the greatest for bombing the alpes.
Yes! And comes stock in almost every bike 😅
The major difference between most mechanical and hydraulic is 2 pistons on hydraulic versus one on mechanical
The major difference between most mechanical and hydraulic is mechanical is cable activated while versus oil (or some other fluid) activation on hydraulic
@@billdam7298the assymetric actuation of mechanical calipers results uneven break pad wear
No Lmfao
It's CHEAP ShiT mano and AVID that have 1 piston CRAP. Stupidly unnecessary hydro has gone to 4 pistons.
My 100% PERFECT 2 piston cable TRP Spyre can stop dead in 1/100th of a second. It's with a Rohloff 203 disc and resin pads. So it's a TOUR bike and I don't do gravel. My bike is 78 or 120 lbs and still the disc pads went 5,300 miles.
But then I have SA XL dyno/ DRUM brake on the front of 2 bikes. 32,000 miles of ZERO worries bliss. WTF is fade and over heating?? LOL hahahaha
>> And my cables lasted 20,000 miles too. I haven't shredded one in 30 years, and that was with useless crap grim calipers.
Unless, of course, you have dual-action mechanicals like the TRP Spyre or that cheap one that Clarks sells.