Diagnosing and Replacing a N80 Valve | 2.5 Liter
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- Опубліковано 26 сер 2024
- Today we show you how to diagnose an N80 Evap Purge Regulator Valve, and replace it. This part could cause check gas cap lights, evap system leak faults, and even no start conditions.
Links Talked about in this video
Evap Purge Valve - OEM
www.shopdap.co...
Evap Purge Regulator Valve (N80) - Aftermarket
www.shopdap.co...
Hose Clamp Pliers
www.shopdap.co...
OBDeleven Next Gen (iOS and Android)
www.shopdap.co...
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Cornelius NC 28031
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Moar 2.5L stuff please. Signed: A Mk6 Golf owner
yup 2011 2.5 Golf owner too.
Yea the 2.5 love is severely lacking overall.
Yes please. 2008 Rabbit. This video just helped me so much, figured this was the issue and this helped me get the damn thing off and figured out.
07 🐰
I really do appreciate the multiple diagnostic techniqes to not only help with this but future issues.
I really enjoy the diagnostic videos. I took my Mk7.5 for a evap leak it was at the dealer three different times to diag and fix the evap leak. N80 valve was replaced along with a slew of other things until they determined it was the gas tank. Tanks was replaced and no more issue. Proper diag videos help us all.
How does the fuel tank go bad ?!
It doesn’t, dealers just want to take advantage of the fact we lack info , and make us waste the last penny we have .
In my years of fixing clapped out Audi VW's, I found these purge valves were the cause of EVAP leak & flow faults damn near 100% of the time. Most of the time I found the valves would NOT hold vacuum from/on the manifold vacuum side of the valve (think of it as a one way check valve, sort of)....100% of the time I found they would click loudly, so I still replaced them even on the few occasions they held vacuum when I checked/replaced them for leak/flow faults. If you can hear the valve clicking inside the car or even outside of the car w/hood closed, then the valve is going bad. New/good working valves are pretty quiet and older cars like B5 chassis & Mk4 chassis cars, they're damn near silent when new/good (the rubber sleeve mount acts like an insulator...).
As Paul kind of alluded to, if it's got leak/flow fault - replace the valve. From a tech's/shop's perspective, this is one of those cases where shotgunin' a part at a car is the easiest most cost effective diagnosis and near certain fix at the same time.
Perfect. Thank you.
A few weeks ago my 16 Year old daughter calls and said the gas cap light was on. She checked the cap and it was on. By the time she got home it was out.
Then a week went by, she got gas and then the car would not start. Turned over but no fire. After waiting 3hrs for AAA to show, It fired up. Drove it home 15min, and next day I took it to work 20mins. Down to AutoZone to check battery. That was good, charging system good. And then on my way home the gas cap light went on again. Watched this video and back to AutoZone for the Valve.
If I don't reply to this ever again it worked for me.
did it work for you?
@@michaelfianko7852 bro did you not read his last sentence he clearly stated that if he doesn't reply back ever again it had worked for him so clearly it did work like Paul stated in the video itself
This is the best diagnostic video I've seen here and describes exactly what's going on with my 2011 Jetta. Thanks a lot my man
Big thumbs up for in depth diagnostic videos and Vagcom videos! Extra bonus points if they’re on a mk6 GTI.
Yes to in-depth diagnostics videos where we can learn more about how stuff is supposed to work and why it fails, else we'll have to buy a Parts Cannon from Charles.
A customer of mine came in and the dealer installed his backwards. So look out for the arrow direction. Even aftermarket puts the electrical connector opposite the arrow. Good video btw!
Humm I should have read this first. Back down to the garage to double check.
@@622wesc arrow always towards vaccuum source
Had all those symptoms. First changed the gas cap and still had the code after driving a week. Opened the hood and didn't hear the clicking so replaced the N80. CEL went off after a short drive.
Thank you for this! My CEL is gone, my gross evap leak is gone! I filled up my tank and my car started! lol now I have to do the vacuum pump delete and then my radiator.
Doing this this weekend, I get a hard start after filling up and have a persistent CEL. Love diag vids, lets see some more.
I like diagnostic videos, but I enjoy your snarky self deprecation more :)
N80 valve replacements for a 2017 VW Jetta seems to be the most elusive (video or documentation) Any knowledge on that?
Yeah, I really enjoy diagnostic maintenance videos. I especially live it with your humor. Good work DAP.
Thanks. I have 2005 Beetle with a 0455 code. Bought a gas cap. Pulling n80 and cleaning or replacing. If that don't do it, check all the stuff inbetween, it seems.
Wow i was just thinking about doing this to my new golf.
Amazing timing 👌👌👌
Great video, very informative and you guys give clear directions.
There isn't a diaphram in this device. It's a solenoid operated valve. When I was replacing the fuel injectors, I apparently broke some carbon deposits loose in the device or in the lines. These small bits prevented the valve from seating and caused the computer to report an evap leak (P0455). After cleaning the valve with some choke cleaner, and cycling the solenoid a few times with a 12v supply, the valve started working normaly. You can test if the valve is leaking just by blowing thru the tube on the end by the electrical connector. If it leaks you can blow through it. When it's working OK you can't.
Do you have any suggestions for a 2017 Volkswagen Jetta 1.4 that needs 0ne
Thank you for this video. I’m on the way to your site to buy both the n80 valve and the pliers!
Thanks for your video. It helped to make my problem a lot easier to solve.
My daughter's went bad on her 2011 VW Jetta 2.5L SE at 189,000 miles. Actually no previous indicators, just stuck in open position one day "age/milage?". She filled up and her car ran as it was missing for 1-2 minutes then, ran fine. Used OBDELEVEN to pull codes. Part cost me $25. We bought her car with 51,000 miles, sold it with 204,000 miles still running, driving like 50k miles. The only 2 parts to ever break/fail on that car was N80 at 189,000 (cost $25) and the windshield wiper motor failed at around 130,000 miles ($75 part). My opinion on the VW 2.5L motor, nearly bullet proof. 51,000 miles to 204,000 miles of ownership "150,000 miles driven", $100 cost in repair costs. Put her back in another VW Jetta , 17 1.8T SEL Premium CPO with 20,000 miles, hoping it is as trouble free until 200,000 miles.
Definitely love the diagnostic vids
I have a 2016 Jetta and I need to replace the N80. The part you linked (and can be found through other research) LOOKS to match, but VW states it won't fit my model. They do not appear to sell the N80 valve alone for the 2016 and instead the only part I can find would be buying the whole hose unit Hose - Volkswagen (04E-133-366-CQ) at $100-$150.
Any idea if I can use the 06E906517A and save the time/money vs buying and replacing the whole hose unit?
A lot of people been talking about n80/n90 valve on mk7 gti’s! Simply unplugging it fixes misfires and other things! If you can make a video on this it’s be very interesting!
What is a good flow rating on OBD eleven and what flow should i get?
How about a video on installing a N80 on a mkv gti?
Just had this replaced on my Mk6 TSI by VW in Australia even though I had no warning lights appearing, apparently it happened at their shop. I was charged $895AUD to replace this part!!!
you got ripped off. the part is $25 .
Yes more diag vids please
Hi ..Audi a4 2003 ... Some times idle problems some times in the fast acceleration i have air noise to the air filter and if i accelerate idle several times the engine stops
Exactly what I was looking for thank you for having this video. Now serious question: you have the two hoses and the thing they are both connected to, but I don't have the plug in electrical bit....is that bad?
More in depth diagnostic videos! More in depth diagnostic videos! More in depth diagnostic videos!
For a Audi TTRS with no clips on hoses should I have to replace the hoses too
7:36 that was driving me nuts,I couldn't figure out why I could only do 1 output test and it refused to do a 2nd one.
I'll have to check that out 😊
Thank you. I did this myself and it was easy to follow.
Perfect. Thank you..
What type of fuel is your car?
On the n80 valve did you have a hard plastic hose on the other side on the right side because on my 2018 ihave a hard plastic hose and I'm scared to break it😊 when taking it apart?
I'm going crazy I just changed it and I get p0444. Evaporated emissions control system control vaulve circuit open
The same valve to porsche 996, 986 but have a hose at in at out. And oem is 40 .
Help me. I can't find it in my 2017 jetta 1.4 manual tsi. Mine says 100+ for the euro part.
I’m saying it now. The 2.5 was the best reliable engine. I wonder if it’s the same engine in the RS3
The 07K block is iron with port injection, the updated audi 5 cylinder is aluminum direct injection
I simply changed mine due to the loud ticking. Had no other symptoms. Ticking noise is gone now. 2013 Passat
My car starts struggling after I pump gas on it, I hope it’s the valve
Abraham Osrs thats how mine was, I replaced the n80 and it started right up.
Omg
My car just started throwing the gas cap light and if I run the car down near empty and shut it off to fill up it will be hard to start again. Is that aftermarket one just as good? Thanks for the video!
Love these type of videos. So I am new to the channel. I own a 2010 vw jetta 2.5L
Currently having hard starts sporadically and dealer has not found anything wrong. I changed my fuel filter and spark plugs and still same issue. I used to get misfire codes with my obd11 but now they dont appear any longer.
What type of manual can I purchase that has all the info to my car. Like the servicing amd wiring that were refering to? Is there something I can find somewhere? Seems like my dealer is not very helpful and overcharge me so I want to start DIY protocols. Thank you and any information is appreciated. Love the website and pricing on everything. You are the VW idols from what Ive came across!!
KY never fails.
Guys, is this the same for code P2024 ? I get an EVAP vapor temperature sensor fault. I also have an engine light on. Thanks
Unfortunately the clamp that was missing from the hose is a crimped clamp. Not sure what I’m going to do about that one.
2009 VW EOS not starting after oil change, did start several times after change but now will not start???
hello, if the n80 valve is broken or malfunctioning is it possible that it continuously sucks air because I heard a leak from my canister and when I disconnected the hose I saw that it was continuously sucking air?
Thanks you
Would the missing clamp on the right (engine side) of the valve be an issue as well? There is one there originally. Prob a 3/8 hose clamp should seal it.
i did a decay test from the TB back to the purge valve and it took about a minute to drop form 30" vacuum to 5" and i'm getting the p0171 code i do not think it is the maf as i tested another car and that car had the same readings of .01 at idle and .02 at 1500 rpms and .20 at 2000 rpms on both cars. outside of the purge i have 60 psi fuel rail i changed the pcv so will the cam sensor cause this? or the egr? if the egr can cause that code where is that? thanks
Is there a certain mileage or age to replace this so it doesn’t fail at the worse time?
lube it. spit on it, KY whatever...EPIC!!! Can you clean it out with solvent or better to just replace?
My wife has a 2015 Tiguan, I've been getting a combo of P0507 and P2187 codes. When I check the N80 valve I'm getting 25.9 ohms of resistance, is that within spec for this car?
Can’t you also remove the n80 valve and blow into one end and if you hear air coming out then you have a bad n80 or you can suck and if you hear air coming threw it then it’s a bad valve?
Correct me if I'm wrong. If you connect a vacuum pump to either side of that valve and pump it to about 15, if the valve diaphragm inside is good isn't it supposed to hold the vac pressure, and if it's bad the pressure will slowly drop? I'm getting P2187 & P0507 codes and have checked everything else that could be related, and they all seem OK. I saw another video using the vac test, and mine isn't holding the vac pressure from either side even though my VAGCOM says the solenoid is functioning OK, and I can hear it clicking.
Did you ever figure out what it was? I have this exact same issue. Valve is quiet until the car warms up and then it clicks loudly, though I'm still not clear on whether that's normal or a sign of failure. Getting only a P2187 code. No vacuum leaks.
Just changed one out today before watching this
I have replaced my N80 but im still getting the error Evap incorrect flow
What i dont understand, when you clip the hose the test on 070 channel suposed to be Ok or Nok?
Is it possible that N80 is fine and the problem is with the activated charcoal inside the canister?
Is the KY specified in the OE repair manual? Like maybe added under a TSB or something? :P
Looking for all the "that's what she said " comments 😁
Can you do a video about changing the mk7 gti fog light trim ?
What about when you.blow air trought the valve and is free that means that the valve.is not working to ?
When I disconnect it should it be open when I blow on it??
My passat only get 3.5 volts to the valve. What could be wrong?
Would this be the same for 2015 2.0 jetta ?
Thanks so much! Always love these videos.
Keep up the good work
Thanks man😊
can you wash the engine please
where is the canister in this car?
Can this cause a p0171 code?
A primary school Paul, thx anyway 😀👍
Like these diagnostic videos!
U didn't do the most important diagnostic test apply vacuum to n80 valve end going to throttle body and see if it hold vacuum or has a leak!
More 07k videos please
i think i have this issue on my VR6 12v MKIV
What about the electrical? You didn't show the electrical
Double thumbs up for more diagnostic videos.
Great video. Can’t get mine unplugged.
I had a p0441 evap incorrect flow, cars got a lumpy idle and seemed to loose power could this be the issue?
I cleaned the Valve out and reset the code, power is back to normal but still runing lumpy no lights on dash
Fuck thanks that matched every issue I got
level water very up...in car
ROFL...Rub it down with some K Y. But it works... LOL
Guess how early I am
U beat meeee!!!! Lol
You spend too much time diagnosing a $10 part. Just replace it.
I have a neighbor whom im helping out with maintenance. 1st. Think I did, Consultant with Bard 😅
Ai. Gave me a few links, one of was a government website. Safety recalls and ehat not. My D7vscan tool reported a lot of TBC , one that was related to multiple TBCs. Was the ABS system. So We went to work.
On the gov website. I put the vehicle VIN. For those who dobt know, it's your cars identification number 😅😮.
The website reported an recall on the ABS. and my neighbor is the only owner registered to that car. The air filter and spark plugs were so so bad. I think it needs a valve gasket replacement. The spark plug gaps were all too wide. The tip was gone on all of them. It also had a loos intake boots so it was also reporting a air flow bank 1 code. So L S s. Its goint to the dealer for the recall when it returns. Ill follow through with brakes. Tires and whatever else. Ih yea EVAp.leak . Open pump something. The Xtool D7 handles a lot of cars. 🪶