If your reusing an old pipe and olive putting a connection back together some plumbers grease might be helpfull but if your using new pipe and new olive then no grease is needed. It just needs tightening up right. Not too tight as that can cause a leak as well as it being too loose can. With tightening go a bit by bit and check for leaks. You can always tighten more if needed but if u over tighten and it leaks u cant go back. Ptfe tape isnt needed on the threads either as the thread isnt where the watertight seal is formed. Its the olive being compressed by the nut being tightened that does. Hope this helps someone 😁
But.....putting pipe thread sealant on all threads aids in seating. So put it on ferrule, threads and unit and then tighten. It will be properly seated and not prevented by friction. It's like 0.01 cents of material.
@@beerbeforebreakfast I agree. I put a small amount of dope on all unions too. Just makes it easier to get a tighter seal and also easier to remove for the next guy.
I’ve mostly read from pros to not add pipe dope but they did also say they aren’t fond of compression fit valves in the first place. They’d solder so take with that what you will. I ended up just sanding and cleaning the pipe with no dope, all’s well.
Thanks for sharing, this video saved me at 11pm replacing double shut-off refrigerator filter valve leaking from the valve stem. Replaced valve and the pipe dope technique worked.
My plumber showed me this pipe dope trick with compression and I said why didn’t I think of that?? Also he had a nice tool for removing old compression ferrules, which I went bought one as well. Great video Brother
I never have used any kind of sealant on a compression fitting, I have used Teflon tape around the threads , the ferule usually is sufficient to have a leak free connection
Dope isnt for sealing, its for thread lubrication first, then way down the line somewhat of a sealing. But really its the interference threads that will make a seal. But in this case it allows the collar nut, the olive and fitting to slide together without any resistance other than where things are resisting to actually make a seal. Hope that makes sense.
Please next opportunity try hitting the ferrule the nut and fitting with some pipe dope and your will quickly see why its a nice safe addition. Helps me sleep at night.
plumber for 40 + years and have made lots of service calls ( and money) cleaning off "teflon tape" from compression fittings... Have NO idea where that stupid idea came from. Compression fittings aren't designed for any sealant or tape.... jus sayin (using a touch of something as a lube...maybe, but, I've never had to and don't plan to.)
Be careful! applying a sealant compound to a compression ring is a violation in the US and it wont pass inspection. The brass ferrule alone is enough to create a proper compression fitting and it should not leak nor need anything else. However, teflon tape or oil can be applied to the threads of the fitting to make tightening easier.
Iknow the olive is enough but why doesn't it pass inspection?, I'm the same i pop PTFE on water, jointing compound on gas pipes, just that little extra assurance it won't leak, as for ousting it threads that just a sign of a DIYer😁
@@happyguycol It introduces potentially harmful chemicals into your drinking water. some products are not suitably for "Potable" water applications. Another issue to deal with is when you undo the fitting you should clean all the crud off before reattaching the fitting. Not cleaning runs a greater risk of leaks and contaminants in the water.
For coiled copper pipe,valve could leak,so make sure it's round shaped before.you could use a crescent wrench,or a copper sizing tool,sold in plumbing,or hvac stores.
I like those compression fittings, I keep a couple of them around for emergencies. Like you said, they are good in areas that you can't use a torch or where the water can't be shut off fully to be able to solder. Unlike Sharkbite fittings that have a O-ring, these use a brass ferrule compression ring. I do the same and use pipe dope or plumber's grease on the ferrule.
Another great video...thank you so much for these useful tips. But no matter how hard I try to use these correctly, water sometimes seeps out the back end of the nut (installed on a hot water heater line, in this case). I know that I most likely overtightened the nut, but being a rookie, that's all I knew how to do.......over time, the water did stop seeping out on its own......next time I need to replace the water heater (they seem to only last about 6 or 7 years around here), I plan on using Shark Bite connections to see how they work. Again, thank you so much for helping all of us out!
Check your water heater's sacrificial anode. Once that's used up, they tend to rust out immediately. Replacements are available at big-box stores or plumbing supply shops.
I always thought that using dope was old fashioned. I’ve dismantled old joints from 50/60 years ago and found them really gunked up with horrible stuff. I find that provided the pipe is in good shape then the metal to metal contact of the olive on the pipe is sufficient to stop leaks. I have used teflon tape on a couple of joints where I could not change the pipe and could not get a leak free joint. I put tape on the pipe, slipped the olive over the tape, then put tape over the olive before connecting up. It worked. For me though, dope is awful stuff and isn’t strictly necessary unless your pipe is not in good shape.
@@Got2Learn I have a question. I got a 3/8 inch OD elbow for my copper water line, and it was too small. If the pipe is 1/2 inch, do I get an elbow that matches (1/2 inch OD) or do I get the 3/4 inch OD so that the elbow is bigger than the pipe?
Nice video and very informative. I think with the water leak I would shut the main water valve off to the house. All home owners or renters should know where the main water valve shutoff is and how to close it in case of an emergency.
I used this type of valve today in an apartment complex. The water heater shutoff wouldn't shutoff. I only had to shut water off to the building for a few minutes so i could cut out and install the new valve. I have several spares of these for just such an occasion.
Thanks for this. I like to install a thin film of potable soft-set dope on the pipe on the pipe (after the nut is pushed past, so it is under the olive) then the olive ferule, then a thin film on the olive and the male threads. the tubing and olive film improve sealing and reduce friction when tightening , and is easy to do. Don't buy in to the false claim the dry fit fittings are not allowed to have sealant on them. Just because they can seal dry doesn't meant that it is best to seal them dry or it is a violation to use approved sealants.
Larry Seibold, so putting a thin film ¿on the pipe UNDER the olive, on the outer side of said olive, on the threads, and then tighten? ¿This still seals well? Thank you.
@@tonyd1149 yes. you are mainly avoiding dry threads and sticking. the soft set thread sealant under and on the olive absolutely makes a difference. It seals with less torque. you can use almost anything on the threads, like silicone, as you are not sealing the threads, just allowing them to slide smoothly when torqueing them down.
@@larryseibold4287 thank you for the kindness of a reply. Soft set thread sealant, under the on the olive, to assure a good seal (using less torque), ¡thank you! (Amazing). Thank you for your experience & recommendation. ¡Thank you! (I used a comp. shut off on our water heater [~4 yrs ago]. And did have a little difficulty. Now, this new information, will help me very much [replacing old style shut offs that leak]). Thank you so much Larry Seibold. I had no idea. God[Bible] Bless you.
I thought it would be a good idea to apply pipe joint compound not only on the outside of the ferrule but also between the pipe and the ferrule, but then it occurred to me that the only thing holding the pipe in the fitting is the friction between the ferrule and the pipe. If the pipe joint compound acts as a lubricant, it could allow the pipe to slip out of the fitting under hydraulic pressure. Therefore it may be better to have a "dry" metal-to-metal seal between the ferrule and the pipe, while having pipe joint compound between the ferrule and the fitting to block a leakage path for water there. Also, spreading pipe joint compound onto the ferrule entails coating the pipe on either side of the ferrule, forming a barrier at the edges of the ferrule. A practical way to do that is to tighten the nut a quarter turn or less, just enough to make the ferrule stick to the pipe, then unscrew the nut, apply pipe joint compound around the ferrule and surrounding pipe, then screw the nut back on and tighten it down.
@@truthpopup Spot on! Completly agreeing with you. There are several problems with applying lubricant: one is reducing the friction in between the threaded parts. Not only that decreasing the friction coeffcient can cause the loosening of the assembly(due to vibrations in the piping system) as you mentioned, but also it will create more clamping force due to reducing the prevailing torque. This can damage the sleeve and compromise the seal.
Just done a job at my son's house involving several 15mm compression and thay all held completely! Replaced some leaky snap on fixings that were a real rat's nest under the sink. Aren't the spaces under sinks an awful place to work?
Cheers for the video. I have a question about connecting a silicone hose onto the other side of one of those fittings. Do you make sure the side that the hose is connected onto is barbed and then tighten that side with a jubilee / worm drive clamp? 🤔
Loving your videos. I installed a compression valve but I see a small droplet. If I decide to re-install and use pipe joint compound, do I need to get new compression valve or can I use the existing one?
@@miltonrobin The compound is just there to provide lubrication as your tightening, if it's leaking, there's most likely an issue with the connection or the materials.
I’ve also seen some folks recommend Teflon tape on the ferrule. Is there an argument against using both? Also, is it necessary to use tape or dope on the threads of the nut/fitting?
Under normal circumstances, like using pipe dope for a tapered joint, it should be applied to the threads to assure smooth even pressure at the affected joint. While this may not be a problem with a copper ferrule, if you are making up a compression coupling ( or valve ) that had a rubber gland then the dope could pose a problem
Do you recommend using compression type of valve as a main shut off valve just before the water meter? I am the Toronto area and the water meters are in the basement. Nice video by the way.
Type L copper. kick ass. i like compression. sharkbite for emergencies. do you deburr your copper before soldering? Anyways, i find that cutting type L or type K, the burr on the outside has to be removed, so i carry a mill bastard file to remove it. i see that you like milwaukee. i am a makita fan. both are good tool companies. ALso, i like that you bought the channellock wideazz (made in spain by irega). nice.
They are covering there butt, not yours! Your the hands that touched iI. If it leaks on your watch then it's on you til you prove there product failed. Mostly they don't and it's the install botch. Best to make sure what we do is leak proof.
@@andyxox4168 You have nothing better to do? I have a lot more respect for someone learning a second language than someone who know one and looks down on people more willing to learn.
@@andyxox4168 I'm a native English speaker, and I've learned other languages. I don't give 'foreigners' a hard time if they don't speak perfect English because I'm comfortable enough with myself that I don't have to try to make others feel small. I hope you get there too.
Help! Repairing 1/2 inch copper tubing. Got my leak cut out, deburring done on both ends, inside & out. 1/2 inch Push fittings were too loose, so I got 1/2 inch brass Compression fittings kit (5 pack). Everything fits fine, except the seal rings. What's my next move? Thanks. 💖 PS I tried checking your forum, but this had not been addressed yet, so I created a thread under Help!
How can you ensure the ferrel won't slip off? The reason I ask is I replaced a shutoff valve in the garage. The instructions said tighten nut 3/4 to 1 turn after it seats. Did that and an hour later, the whole valve popped off. If the valve would have been in the house, I would have sustained a lot of damage. Looked like you tightened it a lot more than I did.
Brah....never thought of putting pipe dope on ferrule. I've always done threads but I'm definitely going to try your method cuz I always have yo tinker with tighten the nut several times after water is on
Can the pressure fitting ferules be replaced separately if you need to move the valve to another location? I put mine on the wrong side for the cold... thinking the water source was coming from the front of the house.. BUMMER!!! Now I need to remove the valve and put it on the other side of the Faucet valve! If there a trick to removing the compressed ferules or should I just cut the pipe and put in a longer repair piece? Thanks for any advice.
U can also use ptfe tape in place of pipe dope. U only need to seal the side of the ring facing the fitting, not the other side because water leaks out from this side.
When I go to buy the ball valve you've shown (as an example), should I just ask for one with a compression type fitting? Wondering how I should order for parts that I want to fit using a compression fitting. I only hear of FIP and NTP.
Well, ideally I suggest "soldering" a valve over using a "compression" valve as soldering is more reliable. The threads on a compression fitting are parallel threads, not NPT.
2 things... The pipe could be out of shape, if that's the case, use this trick here: ua-cam.com/users/clipUgkxGPdyVH-8L-slISrAPj8iQqat-vanN573 Or it could be that there is an outer burr on the pipe so make sure it's deburred properly.
Thank you for the quick reply lol. It just looks like the fitting is the same size as the tube and literally does not fit. I saw somewhere you are supposed to use a 5/8 fitting is that true ?
Why did you apply the sealant only to the top of the olive ring when the other sealing surface is between the ring and the pipe? Technically, it is metal to metal contact and sealant is not needed but it can be an insurance for small scratches. Still, you sealed only half of the seal contact.
You really don’t need to put anything on a compression fitting if installed correctly it will not leak but it helps with a little pipe dope but you don’t really need it.
Can you or anyone answer this? Is it possible to drill hole in broken gate valve to lift gate, then plug hole. Gate stuck in almost off position and I don't have money for plumber or water. Please help
Hey my brother this was an excellent tutorial on the installation of a compression fitting. I put one on my hot water tank and it works perfectly. You are the best teacher and everyone of the video's has helped me. I've lost count as to how much $$$ money I've save so far doing my own plumbing. 🇨🇦 🎯 🇨🇦
I always use wire wool to clean copper pipe and found no need to use anything else but the olive, putting tape or any sealey paste around the pipe is unnecessary. And I have never had to tap any fittings together.
If your reusing an old pipe and olive putting a connection back together some plumbers grease might be helpfull but if your using new pipe and new olive then no grease is needed. It just needs tightening up right. Not too tight as that can cause a leak as well as it being too loose can. With tightening go a bit by bit and check for leaks. You can always tighten more if needed but if u over tighten and it leaks u cant go back. Ptfe tape isnt needed on the threads either as the thread isnt where the watertight seal is formed. Its the olive being compressed by the nut being tightened that does. Hope this helps someone 😁
But.....putting pipe thread sealant on all threads aids in seating. So put it on ferrule, threads and unit and then tighten. It will be properly seated and not prevented by friction. It's like 0.01 cents of material.
Never heard it called an olive. LOL
@@beerbeforebreakfast I agree. I put a small amount of dope on all unions too. Just makes it easier to get a tighter seal and also easier to remove for the next guy.
I’ve mostly read from pros to not add pipe dope but they did also say they aren’t fond of compression fit valves in the first place. They’d solder so take with that what you will. I ended up just sanding and cleaning the pipe with no dope, all’s well.
Please do a video explaining how to put items back in their proper bin at the hardware store.
David's Favorite Videos i'm not sure this is the right channel lolll
@@Got2Learn it may not be the right channel, but is there really a wrong channel for this reminder 😂
After 2 hours searching youtube, this is the video I have been looking for
🙏
Super helpful: detailed, to the point, clear explanations of what to do and why. Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!!!
Thanks for sharing, this video saved me at 11pm replacing double shut-off refrigerator filter valve leaking from the valve stem. Replaced valve and the pipe dope technique worked.
Excellent!!
My plumber showed me this pipe dope trick with compression and I said why didn’t I think of that?? Also he had a nice tool for removing old compression ferrules, which I went bought one as well. Great video Brother
Thank you so much!!!
thank you so much, I enjoyed this video, you should do informercials, you talk fast, clear and concise, great teaching technique. 👍👍
Thank you soooo much!!!!!
I never have used any kind of sealant on a compression fitting, I have used Teflon tape around the threads , the ferule usually is sufficient to have a leak free connection
Dope isnt for sealing, its for thread lubrication first, then way down the line somewhat of a sealing. But really its the interference threads that will make a seal. But in this case it allows the collar nut, the olive and fitting to slide together without any resistance other than where things are resisting to actually make a seal. Hope that makes sense.
Please next opportunity try hitting the ferrule the nut and fitting with some pipe dope and your will quickly see why its a nice safe addition. Helps me sleep at night.
👌👌👌
plumber for 40 + years and have made lots of service calls ( and money) cleaning off "teflon tape" from compression fittings... Have NO idea where that stupid idea came from. Compression fittings aren't designed for any sealant or tape.... jus sayin (using a touch of something as a lube...maybe, but, I've never had to and don't plan to.)
@@bigguyusa193 tye dope is liquid teflon, I only use it to lubricate it like you said, not to seal.
Be careful! applying a sealant compound to a compression ring is a violation in the US and it wont pass inspection. The brass ferrule alone is enough to create a proper compression fitting and it should not leak nor need anything else. However, teflon tape or oil can be applied to the threads of the fitting to make tightening easier.
Why is that?
Iknow the olive is enough but why doesn't it pass inspection?, I'm the same i pop PTFE on water, jointing compound on gas pipes, just that little extra assurance it won't leak, as for ousting it threads that just a sign of a DIYer😁
Violation? More bureaucratic Bullshit.
@@happyguycol It introduces potentially harmful chemicals into your drinking water. some products are not suitably for "Potable" water applications.
Another issue to deal with is when you undo the fitting you should clean all the crud off before reattaching the fitting. Not cleaning runs a greater risk of leaks and contaminants in the water.
@@Rocky-xx2zg Sounds like you would be happy to get sick because somebody used a harmful product.
For coiled copper pipe,valve could leak,so make sure it's round shaped before.you could use a crescent wrench,or a copper sizing tool,sold in plumbing,or hvac stores.
I think I am going to buy a compression valve like that to have on hand in the house..... good tips amigo.
Yeah, always good to have :)
If your going to have it for emergencies better off getting a sharkbite that just slips on and you're done.
Glad to see your channel growing i remember when it was was than a 1000 keep up the good work
Yes, it grew a lot in the past year, I am very happy that it's getting better and better, thanks man ;)
Thank You for uploading this video. That is a fast way to stop a breach.
🤣🤣👌👌
Great information and tutorial, thanks to you I was able to properly install a brand new compression spigot!!!
Good job Eduardo, glad I could help!
I like those compression fittings, I keep a couple of them around for emergencies. Like you said, they are good in areas that you can't use a torch or where the water can't be shut off fully to be able to solder. Unlike Sharkbite fittings that have a O-ring, these use a brass ferrule compression ring. I do the same and use pipe dope or plumber's grease on the ferrule.
Another great video...thank you so much for these useful tips. But no matter how hard I try to use these correctly, water sometimes seeps out the back end of the nut (installed on a hot water heater line, in this case). I know that I most likely overtightened the nut, but being a rookie, that's all I knew how to do.......over time, the water did stop seeping out on its own......next time I need to replace the water heater (they seem to only last about 6 or 7 years around here), I plan on using Shark Bite connections to see how they work. Again, thank you so much for helping all of us out!
👌👌👌
Check your water heater's sacrificial anode. Once that's used up, they tend to rust out immediately. Replacements are available at big-box stores or plumbing supply shops.
You saved the day 🎉🎉🎉
Great video. Exactly what I needed!
Great video. But forgot to mention to debur the cut edges, quickly, or if water shut off, take your time.
I always thought that using dope was old fashioned. I’ve dismantled old joints from 50/60 years ago and found them really gunked up with horrible stuff. I find that provided the pipe is in good shape then the metal to metal contact of the olive on the pipe is sufficient to stop leaks. I have used teflon tape on a couple of joints where I could not change the pipe and could not get a leak free joint. I put tape on the pipe, slipped the olive over the tape, then put tape over the olive before connecting up. It worked. For me though, dope is awful stuff and isn’t strictly necessary unless your pipe is not in good shape.
Thank you!! I had to install my dishwasher by myself and truely appreciate the help.
😊😊😊
@@Got2Learn I have a question.
I got a 3/8 inch OD elbow for my copper water line, and it was too small. If the pipe is 1/2 inch, do I get an elbow that matches (1/2 inch OD) or do I get the 3/4 inch OD so that the elbow is bigger than the pipe?
1/2" fitting for 1/2" pipe :)
@@Got2Learn Thanks. :)
Np!!
Nice video and very informative. I think with the water leak I would shut the main water valve off to the house. All home owners or renters should know where the main water valve shutoff is and how to close it in case of an emergency.
Great point! Thanks Dennis!!!
So true, last year a relative broke their toilet pipe in upstairs bathroom, took them forever to find the shut off = thousands in damage!
In the UK the sleeve is called an olive
@snipe69 In Australia they are called an olive.
@snipe69 but you are wrong as usual, invented in Europe, you're plumbing standards in yankland are stone age
They really are called round thing ma jigs.
The best of the best! Always making great videos they just get better and better! Wowww! 👏🏻🙌🏻
Sherri Morana very nice of you, thanks :)
Great instructions on this channel.
Very helpful video . Clear and easy to follow . Hope we do it right !!!!
💪💪💪
Nice idea for hitting it in place, wish i would've watched this a week ago, couldnt stop a slow leak so finally said screw it n went with shark bite
You also need to de burr the pipe after cutting. Otherwise the sleeve is not going to slide on properly.
I used this type of valve today in an apartment complex. The water heater shutoff wouldn't shutoff. I only had to shut water off to the building for a few minutes so i could cut out and install the new valve. I have several spares of these for just such an occasion.
Really good video. I have to say you have taught me a lot. Thanks 😀
Wow, very rewarding, thank you so much Grant, more vids coming soon!
Love your videos ❤️👍
😇😇😇
Québec represent! Merci!
🤘🤘🤘
Good tutorial. If you are using this in an air compression application is pipedope still a good idea if youre trying to keep stuff out of the line?
I like your videos very much and I have a question is compression fitting possible
Thanks for this. I like to install a thin film of potable soft-set dope on the pipe on the pipe (after the nut is pushed past, so it is under the olive) then the olive ferule, then a thin film on the olive and the male threads. the tubing and olive film improve sealing and reduce friction when tightening , and is easy to do. Don't buy in to the false claim the dry fit fittings are not allowed to have sealant on them. Just because they can seal dry doesn't meant that it is best to seal them dry or it is a violation to use approved sealants.
Larry Seibold, so putting a thin film ¿on the pipe UNDER the olive, on the outer side of said olive, on the threads, and then tighten? ¿This still seals well? Thank you.
@@tonyd1149 yes. you are mainly avoiding dry threads and sticking. the soft set thread sealant under and on the olive absolutely makes a difference. It seals with less torque. you can use almost anything on the threads, like silicone, as you are not sealing the threads, just allowing them to slide smoothly when torqueing them down.
@@larryseibold4287 thank you for the kindness of a reply. Soft set thread sealant, under the on the olive, to assure a good seal (using less torque), ¡thank you! (Amazing). Thank you for your experience & recommendation. ¡Thank you! (I used a comp. shut off on our water heater [~4 yrs ago]. And did have a little difficulty. Now, this new information, will help me very much [replacing old style shut offs that leak]). Thank you so much Larry Seibold. I had no idea. God[Bible] Bless you.
I thought it would be a good idea to apply pipe joint compound not only on the outside of the ferrule but also between the pipe and the ferrule, but then it occurred to me that the only thing holding the pipe in the fitting is the friction between the ferrule and the pipe. If the pipe joint compound acts as a lubricant, it could allow the pipe to slip out of the fitting under hydraulic pressure. Therefore it may be better to have a "dry" metal-to-metal seal between the ferrule and the pipe, while having pipe joint compound between the ferrule and the fitting to block a leakage path for water there. Also, spreading pipe joint compound onto the ferrule entails coating the pipe on either side of the ferrule, forming a barrier at the edges of the ferrule. A practical way to do that is to tighten the nut a quarter turn or less, just enough to make the ferrule stick to the pipe, then unscrew the nut, apply pipe joint compound around the ferrule and surrounding pipe, then screw the nut back on and tighten it down.
@@truthpopup Spot on! Completly agreeing with you. There are several problems with applying lubricant: one is reducing the friction in between the threaded parts. Not only that decreasing the friction coeffcient can cause the loosening of the assembly(due to vibrations in the piping system) as you mentioned, but also it will create more clamping force due to reducing the prevailing torque. This can damage the sleeve and compromise the seal.
Appreciate those instruction Boss.
You bet!!
You've made some great vids. Thank you!
Thanks, your input is what keeps me going ;)
This is a great how-to! I will be using this in my new home. Thanks G2L!!
Another GREAT video. Thanks for producing such helpful content.
👌👌👌
Great video, perfect for my Home DIY projects in my utility room. Glad, i am subscriber. Keep up the good work👍
Thanks for the sub!
Im using white tape on the olive (wrap it over). Its gives more grup on it and uneasy to get leaks. Mine is an old pipe.
Great video and great information
Just done a job at my son's house involving several 15mm compression and thay all held completely! Replaced some leaky snap on fixings that were a real rat's nest under the sink. Aren't the spaces under sinks an awful place to work?
Yes, aweful ☝
Good job. Your videos explain more now and have examples. I like the plumbing videos
Thanks buddy ;)
Another great informative video!
👌👌👌
Compression fittings can be the most aggravating too, good video on how to avoid this.
David's Favorite Videos thanks buddy, please share!!!
If trying to do it while water is running make sure the valve is in the open position obviously or the water pressure will push the valve off
💯
No shit Einstein
This video is awesome!
Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Cheers for the video. I have a question about connecting a silicone hose onto the other side of one of those fittings. Do you make sure the side that the hose is connected onto is barbed and then tighten that side with a jubilee / worm drive clamp? 🤔
The sleeve is called a ferrule 👍🏻
In the UK we call them 'olives'. Not sure why.
@@PJBonoVox that’s interesting. I wonder why? 🤔
Loving your videos. I installed a compression valve but I see a small droplet. If I decide to re-install and use pipe joint compound, do I need to get new compression valve or can I use the existing one?
Just tighten it more, it'll stop leaking.
@@Got2Learn I think I tightened it as far as it goes which is what I am worried about. That's why I'd rather re-do it with pipe joint compound
@@miltonrobin The compound is just there to provide lubrication as your tightening, if it's leaking, there's most likely an issue with the connection or the materials.
I’ve also seen some folks recommend Teflon tape on the ferrule. Is there an argument against using both? Also, is it necessary to use tape or dope on the threads of the nut/fitting?
Not necessary!
Fantastic video. Great tips and straight to the point. I subscribed!👍
Keep up the good work....
Thanks so much for the kind comment !!!
Can you use compression fittings to install the 2 - 3/4 braided lines directly to the copper pipes for a water heater?
thanks for the video. would this work for soft copper pipe?
Under normal circumstances, like using pipe dope for a tapered joint, it should be applied to the threads to assure smooth even pressure at the affected joint. While this may not be a problem with a copper ferrule, if you are making up a compression coupling ( or valve ) that had a rubber gland then the dope could pose a problem
It's a copper furrule
Brilliant 👍🇬🇧 You are a professional.
🤘🤘🤘
Do you recommend using compression type of valve as a main shut off valve just before the water meter? I am the Toronto area and the water meters are in the basement. Nice video by the way.
Never! Only solder or pro press! Thanks!
@@Got2Learn Pro Press Leak too! I worked a Multi Trades Mechanic, and I Have found Pro press connection Leaks
Until today I have never used or seen the sealing compound, nor I had the need to use it. Have performed fitting work up to 200barg
I love your videos bro. They’re the best. You use of visual examples are great. Keep them coming!
Thanks a million!!!!!
Type L copper. kick ass. i like compression. sharkbite for emergencies. do you deburr your copper before soldering? Anyways, i find that cutting type L or type K, the burr on the outside has to be removed, so i carry a mill bastard file to remove it. i see that you like milwaukee. i am a makita fan. both are good tool companies. ALso, i like that you bought the channellock wideazz (made in spain by irega). nice.
Please do a video explaining how to put items back in their proper bin at the hardware store.
Yeah, I should make a dedicated video JUST on that LOLLL
Great video
Thanks!!!
You might want to check with the manufacture details on the part as not all manufactures recommend compounds to be used in the compression fitting
They are covering there butt, not yours! Your the hands that touched iI. If it leaks on your watch then it's on you til you prove there product failed. Mostly they don't and it's the install botch. Best to make sure what we do is leak proof.
@@beerbeforebreakfast there their they’re, your you’re ... oh why bother with grammar, you must be foreign
@@andyxox4168 You have nothing better to do? I have a lot more respect for someone learning a second language than someone who know one and looks down on people more willing to learn.
@@themonkeydrunken .. I’m happy to see that you’re trying to learn English grammar!
@@andyxox4168 I'm a native English speaker, and I've learned other languages. I don't give 'foreigners' a hard time if they don't speak perfect English because I'm comfortable enough with myself that I don't have to try to make others feel small. I hope you get there too.
Do you normally buy the valve with the compression nut and sleeve together? Great videos as always!
Yes, it all comes together 🙂
They're always included, but extra compression sleeves ("olives") are available to purchase.
Hello
After you cut the pipe. Do you de-burr the new pipe edge?
Inside, always, outside, only if the ferrule doesn't want to slip on.
Help! Repairing 1/2 inch copper tubing. Got my leak cut out, deburring done on both ends, inside & out. 1/2 inch Push fittings were too loose, so I got 1/2 inch brass Compression fittings kit (5 pack). Everything fits fine, except the seal rings. What's my next move? Thanks. 💖
PS I tried checking your forum, but this had not been addressed yet, so I created a thread under Help!
Answered on forum!
How can you ensure the ferrel won't slip off? The reason I ask is I replaced a shutoff valve in the garage. The instructions said tighten nut 3/4 to 1 turn after it seats. Did that and an hour later, the whole valve popped off. If the valve would have been in the house, I would have sustained a lot of damage. Looked like you tightened it a lot more than I did.
Yes, they need to be tightened pretty well.
The bad part is I read the enclosed instructions where more often I do not.
What about using the tite seal brushed on the copper pipe under the sleeve?
Brah....never thought of putting pipe dope on ferrule. I've always done threads but I'm definitely going to try your method cuz I always have yo tinker with tighten the nut several times after water is on
What gap do you need between the pipes when joining two pipes with a compression fitting?
It depends the fitting, you need to use the fitting as a reference.
@@Got2Learn Thanks!
Can the pressure fitting ferules be replaced separately if you need to move the valve to another location? I put mine on the wrong side for the cold... thinking the water source was coming from the front of the house.. BUMMER!!!
Now I need to remove the valve and put it on the other side of the Faucet valve! If there a trick to removing the compressed ferules or should I just cut the pipe and put in a longer repair piece? Thanks for any advice.
Watch this here: ua-cam.com/video/OjD2UtzlX8w/v-deo.html
U can also use ptfe tape in place of pipe dope. U only need to seal the side of the ring facing the fitting, not the other side because water leaks out from this side.
You don't need dope or tape with compression fittings.
@@themonkeydrunken in theory you don't. In reality, you often need.
Would these be good for faucet shut offs?
Yes.
When I go to buy the ball valve you've shown (as an example), should I just ask for one with a compression type fitting? Wondering how I should order for parts that I want to fit using a compression fitting. I only hear of FIP and NTP.
Well, ideally I suggest "soldering" a valve over using a "compression" valve as soldering is more reliable. The threads on a compression fitting are parallel threads, not NPT.
did he push the valve all the way on the pipe and then draw the pencil mark there?
My new compression valve isn’t properly sealing evening with a lot of tightening. Should I just assume it’s the pipe is maybe warmed or bent a little?
Is this on soft copper or hard copper?
Got2Learn I think it’s hard. But I am not sure
If you can bend it with you hands, it's soft.
Got2Learn oh it’s hard I am cutting off the end to make it a little better. I hope it works. It’s a little thin in diameter for some reason
You might also be working with type M copper, which should work in theory.
Are these ( compression fittings) better then shark bite. Would You use them instead of shark bite
Yes, but they still have to remain accessible!!
@@Got2Learn out In the open not behind walls. Got it
@@cdb989 💯👊
Can you use compression fittings for propane too
Not sure, won't give you an answer.
Depends where in the world you are.
Are compression fittings with copper pipe approved for exterior plumbing?
My copper pipe is covered in solder and I can't get it off. Can I just sand it smooth then put on a compression fitting?
Do i need to buy a bigger size ? The 1/2 fitting does not slide over the tube
2 things...
The pipe could be out of shape, if that's the case, use this trick here: ua-cam.com/users/clipUgkxGPdyVH-8L-slISrAPj8iQqat-vanN573
Or it could be that there is an outer burr on the pipe so make sure it's deburred properly.
Thank you for the quick reply lol. It just looks like the fitting is the same size as the tube and literally does not fit. I saw somewhere you are supposed to use a 5/8 fitting is that true ?
For reference it is a 1/2 pipe
@@Missigno213 i've heard some people experience this same problem, never knew how they went about it 😅
Why did you apply the sealant only to the top of the olive ring when the other sealing surface is between the ring and the pipe? Technically, it is metal to metal contact and sealant is not needed but it can be an insurance for small scratches. Still, you sealed only half of the seal contact.
It's not for sealing purposes, it's just to lubricate the nut while it's being tightened.
Hi There, I want to add a compression valve to 1/2 copper pipe, should I use 1/2 or 5/8 or 3/4 compression fitting?
1/2
There's a clue the size of the pipe,maybe get someone who knows what they are doing
@@alemgas 1/2pipe fits 5/8 compression fittings. That really confuses me.
@UCm6ijZkQr7JJbtFJF-XnNGg pipe sizes are inside diameter you don't get 5/8 pipe as I said get a professional to any work before you cause mayhem
Can the same rules apply for blue pvc pipe
You really don’t need to put anything on a compression fitting if installed correctly it will not leak but it helps with a little pipe dope but you don’t really need it.
@1:35 Why do we need to mark the copper pipe with pencil?
To make sure that if it moves, you have a good reference point.
Can you or anyone answer this? Is it possible to drill hole in broken gate valve to lift gate, then plug hole. Gate stuck in almost off position and I don't have money for plumber or water. Please help
Compression fittings are so hard to find, wanted to do compression to barb
Can you make a video on how to remove the old feral
Yes it's on the list :)
Do not need jointing compound on a correctly fitted compression fitting and also need to de-bur pipe after cutting
is jointing compound really needed?
Not at all, it's just there to ease the tightening process! :)
Hello could you make a comperaison vidéo beetwen compression vs solder connexion please.
👌
I call the sleeves ferrules
Yep!
Obviously the pipe dope is suitable in a potable water system?
Ok?
Hey my brother this was an excellent tutorial on the installation of a compression fitting. I put one on my hot water tank and it works perfectly.
You are the best teacher and everyone of the video's has helped me. I've lost count as to how much $$$ money I've save so far doing my own plumbing.
🇨🇦 🎯 🇨🇦
Glad it helped!!
Thank you, don't forget to share, it really helps the channel!
You don`t use sealing compount on compression fittings..!
Just tighten the fitting 1¼ turn.
I always use wire wool to clean copper pipe and found no need to use anything else but the olive, putting tape or any sealey paste around the pipe is unnecessary. And I have never had to tap any fittings together.
Good 👌
I mean, your main point was brilliant, but having ads come up over your live action leak fix? Probably not the best idea.
Otherwise, brill, thank you!
Sorry for that, thanks 😊